••• Cas-Ker's Spring Book Specials!! The available now! Complete A fine new book tells all about how a person with average skills can make useful and imaginative clocks. Written from a do-it­ youxselfer's viewpoint, the subject is lightly and skillfully handled. Guide to More than forty clocks are illustrated with many step-by.,;tep photographs. Over three years in the making, with pictures and illustrations by the author. The first really authentic book on the American subject. A book that will not only inform you ... it will delight you. A MUST for the hobbyist, woodworker, rock hound, scavenger, and professional clockmaker. Pocket Watches 1981 by Cooksey Shugart

52 pages Black-and-white photographs and 530 drawings illustrate this over 200 conclusive guide to collectible American pocket watches. adjustment, and gold or silver photos Smart collectors are now content; clear, illustrated des­ buying vintage American pocket criptions of the internal workings and watches as both a hobby and a of a pocket watch; advice on hedge against inflation. Finally, assembling a collection; col­ drawings for the more than eighty thou­ lecting on a limited budget; sand avid pocket watch collec­ collecting for investment; and tors, here is an illustrated manual much, much more. only $4-95 that includes all the valuable information and current prices Cooksey Shugart is a member every antique buff and collec­ of the National Association of tor will need. With the "Com­ Watch and Clock Collectors. Plus $1.00 First plete Guide" both the pro­ Class postage and fessional and the novice will be 530 illustrations including 8 packing charge. equipped to make on-the-spot pages of full color. 6 x 9/256 judgments about the make, pages .••...•. $8.95 paper. model, quality, and current value of any American pocket watch. Included is the history of the NEW BOOK pocket watch, with capsule biographies of the major Ameri­ can manufacturers, along with only $8.95 a complete list of current manu­ Plus $1.50 packing and facturers; a step-by.,;tep guide First Class or UPS del. AN UNUSUAL BOOK to determining age, balance This is truly the first comprehensive book on the subject of making clocks using battery operated movements. Excellent quality from cover to cover ... the book shows many exceptional clocks, many that you can make easily. The author offers many plans ••. the THE DIGITAL WATCH styles are both traditional and contemporary •.• plus a section of "found" things made into useful and sometimes amusing clocks. REPAIR MANUAL There are sections that show you how to install movements and clock hands; how to design your own dials, some dials on the 2ND EDITION market today, plus some working tips on designing and putting to­ ONLY gether many clock cases. A very thorough book that is a must A complete manual on for any novice clockmaker and an inspiration to the experienced. $19.95 the repair techniques of LED and LCD watches. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Please add $1 .2 5 by Charlie Plumb is a successful Graphic Designer. He first became for shipping interested in battery operated clock movements a few years ago LOUIS A. ZANONI while handling a graphic assignment for a large distributor of clock movements. As he tells it, he fumbled his way through the first Learn failure analysis and repair techniques by un­ few clocks without any information to guide him. Combining his derstanding the fundamentals for ALL types of quartz design and shop skills, his inventive imagination, and a variety of materials, he has produced many unusual and attractive clocks ... watches, including the electronic portion of the analog they form the basis for this clear, concise and well-illustrated book. quartz timepieces. The author has an uncanny ability to find simple solutions to difficult problems. We highly recommend this book loaded with • No Previous Watch Experience Necessary exceptional clockmaking ideas. • No Electronic Background Required • Easy to Read and Understand ------, • Fully Illustrated Enclosed find $ , for which ship the following books: I • © Copyrighted 1980 "How You Can Make Battery Operated Clocks .•• Easily," $4.95 1 plus $1.00 postage & handling. "The Complete Guide to American 1 Pocket Watches 1981," $8.95 plus $1.50 postage and handling. "The Digital Watch Repair Manual," $19.95 plus $1.25 postage I & handling. I Name I Cas-~&rr Co. Address l P.O. Box 2347, Drawer A, Cincinnati, OH 45201 City ______State ____ Zip __ 1 Telephone: (513) 241-7075 VOLUME 5, NUMBER 5 MAY1981 Special Feature:

The Latest Word On YOUR SHOP CHEMICALS 12 Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

JOE CROOKS THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 4 Present and Future Finances WMJDA Convention ARCHIE B. PERKINS 8 TECHNICALLY WATCHES The Cylinder Escapement Happenings ORVILLE R. HAGANS 10 IN THE SPOTLIGHT Lever Clock Without Hairspring 18 SEAN C. (PAT) MONK ESSENCE OF CLOCK REP AIR 16 Antique Gilbert Calendar Clock HENRY B. FRIED 20 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Duplex Escapement Watches Burckhardt Lectures: FRED S. BURCKHARDT THE ROCK QUARRY 22 Watch History and Appreciation WATCH HISTORY & OTTO BENESH 24 CLOCK CHATTER Simple Measuring Devices APPRECIATION HENRY B. FRIED 26 REPAIRING THE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT Part II 22 MARVIN E. WHITNEY 30 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER American Chronometer Makers: Part VII More on the JOSEPH RUGOLE 38 WATCH ADJUSTMENTS Bimetallic Temperature Adjustments DUPLEX MILTON C. STEVENS AWINEWS 40 An Open Letter to A WI ESCAPEMENT

WESDOOR SALES TALK 42 Clerk or Salesperson?

GEORGESCHLEHR SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING 26 44 A Tall Case for Clock Repair

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 46 Miscellaneous Jewelry Repair DEPARTMENTS Readers Write I 6 ROBERT F. BISHOP AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN New Members I 6 50 Affiliate Chapter Glossary A WI Bench Courses I 14 Association News I 51 Bench Tips I 57 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American News in the Trade I 62 Watchmakers lnstitue, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Subscription, $30.00 per year, New Products and Literature I 64 $4.00 per copy in the United States and $36.00 per year, $5.00 per copy outside the United States. Classifed Ads I 66 Second class postage paid at Cincinnat, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HORO LOGICAL Advertiser's Index I 68 TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Dates to Remember I 68 Editorial Executive and Editorial Offices AWl Central According to a very reliable source, 23.7% of older cannon pinions P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue must be tightened on their posts when a watch is overhauled. Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 We all agree that this percentage figure is correct, because when Telephone: (513) 661-3838 we first started in the watchmaking profession, 23 or 24 cus­ Harold]. Hennan: Editor tomers out of 100 would come back to us, complaining that the Maury Norrell: Managing Editor second hand worked fine, but the other two didn't turn right. Virginia C. Montgomery: Associate Editor Industry was quick to respond .to this service problem. They LuAnn Martin: Art Director reduced the size of the cannon or friction pinion, and sometimes Sue Scott: Business Manager even hid it between the plates of the movement. The watchmaker Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager had to respond with increased repair prices, and the consumer Lee Rothan: Circulation bore the brunt of industry's indifference. Margie M. Brater: Circulation But now we get to a replay of the previous cannon pinion action. Technical Editors: This happens to be the step motor caper. Just about every manu­ Otto Benesh Archie B. Perkins facturer manages to place the step motor wheel under a common James H. Broughton Marshall F. Richmond Fred S. Burckhardt Joseph Rugole bridge with the other train wheels. The result is that the train Steven G. Conover Leslie L. Smith must be "dumped," because the magnetized step motor collects Joe Crooks William 0. Smith, Jr. steel fragments that must be removed in order for the movement Paul Fisk James L. Tigner Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney to perform properly. Increased labor time for the watchmaker Orville R. Hagans means increased repair prices for the consumer. Ewell D. Hartman Gerald G. Jaeger Now then, if you were a manufacturer, wouldn't you design a Sean C. Monk quartz step motor with a separate bridge for the step motor? Robert A. Nelson And wouldn't you present your product to the jeweler-watchmaker A WI Officers: with the point that it is easily serviced because the step motor Joe Crooks: President alone can be removed and then the train can be ultrasonically Dorothy M. Adennan: 1st Vice President cleaned without danger of flux particles remaining in the move­ Joseph G. Baier, PhD: 2nd Vice President ment? Sure you would, even if the product cost a few pennies James H. Broughton, CEWS: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC: Treasurer more. A WI Directors: They won't. Otto Benesh, CMC Jay Foreman Henry Fried, FAWI, CMW, CMC Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC Ewell Hartman, CMW Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Donald W. Leverenz, CMW On the Front Sean C. Monk, CMW Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS CHERRY BLOSSOMS, as featured on our May cover, are a breathtaking springtime attraction in many areas of the Robert F. Bishop: Affiliate Chapter Director country. In our nation's capitol, thousands of people flock to see the trees in blossom along the Potomac River. Around 900 George Schlehr, CMW: Research and Education Council Chairman of the flowering Oriental cherry trees were given as a gift to the people of Washington by the people of Tokyo in 1912. Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary These were planted on both sides of the Potomac River in Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director Potomac Park, which also houses the Jefferson and Lincoln Memorials. Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without pennission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright © 1981 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

2 Horological Times/May 1981 Quality Clock Movements

Quartz Alarm Ultra Thin # 425 A most desirable feature # 450 Quartz Quartz Insert Movement coupled with quartz accur­ # 600 Complete W / Dial- Hands acy makes this a perfect choice for movement re­ placement Two screws en­ able the movement to be easily fixed to any case. A­ larm stopper, alarm hand Precise timekeeping is now 25 avai lable for the clock in­ setting knob. second setter, $ 5 . In Quantity and battery compa1tment stallation and replacement are conveniently located on the back. Runs over one 75 markets. These units are year on a singleAA size bat­ $ 8 . In Quantity ready to install quickly and tery, Features electronic a­ economically. Comes com­ larm and step second mo­ 1 or 2 @ S12.95-3to 2 3 / 8" X 2 13/ 16" X 7 / 8 " tion Comes complete with 9 @ S11 .75- 10to 24 plete with brushed brass four hands-hour. minute. @ S10.50-25 to 99 @ finished bezel-dial & hands. 1 or 2 @ $18.95 each second and alarm $9.75- 100 @ $8 .75. Extreme accuracy is now available Ava ilable in 3"-3 3/s" 4 " diam. 3 to 9 @ $16 95 each ALMOST AS SMALL at very moderate cost for customers AS A WATCH! # 475 that demand precise time keeping. # 6 5O Quartz Insert Weighing only 1.25 Tiny Quartz Mo-vement Only ounces. this Versatile Quality features such as high quartz Movement will carry a oscillation of 4 .194304 MHz. sweep second hand and run for over one year on a Assures reliable time keeping as single "AA" cell-only 9 / 16" thick this com­ well as accuracy. The small di­ The same movement as used pact unit can be fit into mensions are ideal for all jobs. Fully in the above insert complete any type case or panel. A Runs on AA Penlite Ce lls Can single center nut enables warranted for one year. 25 be installed 3 ways. friction, the movement to be easi­ $ 5, In Quantity fixing screw or case screws ly fixed to a diaL The hand Only 2 '/s " diameter for easy setting knob, seconds 1 or 2@ $8.50-3 to 9 installation in wood. metal or 1 or 2 @ $11 .95 each setter. and battery com­ 1 or 2@ $8.50-3 to 9 @ $7.00- 10 to 24 @ @ S7 .00-10 to 24 @ 3 to 9@ $10,95 each partment are convenient­ $6.50-25 to 99@ $5.75-100 to 299@ $5.25. ceram1cs ly located on the back. $6.50-25 to 99 @ Accurate to (~I 1 0 $5,75-100 to 299@ seconds per month. $5.25.

# 500 Quartz # 575 Pendulum # 100 Quartz Striking 25 Pendulum $ 9. In Quantity 8'14 ' X 5%"

This compact unit can be fitted into any type of en ­ $22.00 In Quantity closure, case or panel. The pendulum does not affect This versatile and extremely accurate quartz accuracy of one movement with its beautiful chime minute per year, so that tones would be a welcome addition to :i'l2' 4 " 5 '12" various lengths of 8 to 14 any room. Can be used with or without $5.70 $5.95 $6.20 inches may be used. Noise pendulum. Comes complete with hands from movement is negli­ and pendulum. A clock movement ready to incor­ gible, only ticking sound • Chimes on half hour-Counts on hour porate into a case of your own • Acc urate to ± 10 seconds per month of pendulum can be heard. design. A complete unit with dial • Runs for 2 years on ·o · alkaline cell and hands, covered by glass for de­ • Chimes can be silenced by pushing lever 1 or 2@ $13.95-3 to 9 @ S12.75-10to 24 @ • Dependable-Fully guaranteed for one year pendability and ease of installation. $11.25-25 to 99 @ $10.25-100 to 299 @ 1 or 2 @ $27.95-3 to 9 @ $25.95-10 to 24 @ Versatile because of a variety of $9,25. $24.00-25 to 99 @ $22.00. mounting techniques. DELIVERY FROM STOCK- PRICES INCLUDE HANDS - USE COUPON BELOW PLEASE SEND MOVEMENTS AS LISTED PLUS $1.50 FOR DELIVERY. # 425 QUARTZ ALARM MOVEMENTS @ ______@ ______------# 475 TINY QUARTZ MOVEMENTS . @ ______. ------# 450 QUARTZ MOVEMENTS .. @ ______------# 600 # 650 @ ______------# 500 QUARTZ PENDULUMS @ ______# 575 QUARTZ STRIKING PENDULUMS @ ______# 100 ELECTRIC MOVEMENTS D Check Here for Free Booklet Listing Complete Line of Mo-vements-Numerals-Hands # 450-500 a-vailable in Reg. Post (to %" thickness) and Long Post (to %" thick). NAME ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP -- c rrlmg·e & Go P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL, MN 55164 \~ 1 L.:...:::l.:) r TOLL FREE-ORDERS ONLY-800-328-0205 ~ ~ • INQUIRIES-INFORMATION-612-452-7180 : ~ - -····------· ------~------~ May 1981/Horological Times 3 President's Message/ Joe Crooks

PRESENT AND FUTURE FINANCES

ay 1st is the beginning of a new erred the financial position of this pub­ M fiscal year for the American Watch­ lication with increased circulation and makers Institute. A recent independent advertising during this fiscal year. audit of the A WI books found them to Another major thrust has been be in good order. In fact, the auditors launched to generate additional income complimented A WI, calling it, "a well­ through increased activity in the pub­ organized and efficient operation." This is lishing field. On April 1st, we began due in large measure to the expertise of to make delivery of the new Questions Michael P. Danner, Administrative Direc­ and Answers of and for the Clockmaking tor, and Marvin E. Whitney, Treasurer. Profession. This book, authored by three I guess you would expect this from a outstanding contemporary horologists, former savings and loan manager and a Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, James cum laude graduate, which Mike and L. Tigner, CMC, and Marvin E. Whitney, Marv happen to be. CMW, CMC, brought the following Just as you are feeling the Joe Crooks comment from Henry B. Fried: "The continued pressures of unchecked in­ times, we have found these additional authors and editors have done their flation in your business and personal reports to be very beneficial. homework on this three-year effort. lives, this same pressure is bearing down We have experienced some finan­ It is authoritative and can be highly on the A WI operation. In order that we cial relief based on our policy to broaden recommended as one of the best books may have an up-to-the-minute picture the base of A WI's income source designed on clockmaking, equally useful to the of A WI's financial position, the Board to relieve the burden of total depen­ professional clockmaker and the novice." of Directors has instructed our Treasurer, dence on members' dues for operational The book is now available at a price of Marv Whitney, to prepare financial monies. Harold Herman, Editor, and $10.95. analyses at more frequent intervals than Maury Norrell, Managing Editor, of Several other works, soon to be in previous years. In these difficult A WI's Horological Times, have strength- (Continued on paf(e 45)

QUEEN CITY

••• the E. & J. Swigart Company has, SEMINARS since its founding in 1879, been one of the largest of pure Now in its s~venth year, and with attendees over the material houses in the continental United States, offering 900 mark, we are currently sponsoring in a sepa­ full lines of Swiss and American watch materials and rate location at 34 West 6th Street in Cincinnati, batteries, including genuine materials from such factories five day seminars in jewelry making and repair. as Seiko, Citizens, Bulova, Girard Perregaux, Omega, Equipment used is the most modern available. Longines, Wyler, Zodiac, Rolex, Hamilton, Elgin and other Seminars are as follows: popular brands. We also carry full lines of tools and supplies for the jeweler 1. A primary five day class in ring sizing, assem­ and watchmaker, as well as regular and jewelry findings, bling heads and shanks, prong rebuilding, stone setting, plating, and related functions. Classes are clock materials, watch glass, bands and straps, optical limited to six to permit personalized instruction. goods, packaging supplies, tags, job envelopes, and bags, Findings used are 14K die struck. imprinted on our own presses. The majority of our sixty-six employees have been with us 2. Five days of advanced jewelry work for those for periods of twenty years or more, giving us an expertise who have attended the primary seminar. which is unique in a complex and highly technical business. We invite you to try our stocks and service. 3. Five day seminars in casting rings, pins, and pendants by the lost wax process. Wax modeling, Catalogue Available on Request carving, and design.

THE E. & J. SWIGART COMPANY WRITE FOR BROCHURE 34 West 6th Street Cincinnati, Ohio 45202 (513) 721-1427 The E. & J. Swigart Co.

4 Horological Times/May 1981 0 PORTESCAP ® - POWER Hydro-Torch­ GAs GENERATOR

The many outstanding features of the new Portescap Hydro-Torch Gas Generator have made it an instant success. Consider this: Hydro-Torch requires little maintenance, and its solid Hydro-Torch is a self-contained, electronically metal construction and stainless steel internal reactor controlled gas generator producing a steady, sputter-free, chamber ensures long life. working flame. It's safe, easy to use, operates quietly FREE DEMONSTRATION! Move your jewelry and economically too. production into the '80's. Your Portescap Vibrograf Hydro-Torch is ideally suited for soldering, brazing, machine salesman will be happy to give you a complete welding, annealing and flame polishing of precious and demonstration in your place at no obligation. Easy semi-precious metals. payment terms and trade-in allowance available. Non-Polluting, Odorless, Burns Clean. Hydro-Torch The Hydro-Torch Gas Generator-Once again uses distilled water and hydrogen salt to produce a low Portescap leads the way. pressure, non-polluting oxyhydrogen gas, only as needed. Bums clean with minimal oxidation. No VIBROGRAF MACHINE DIVISION dangerous pressurized storage tanks are needed. Built-in 6 Ohio Drive, Lake Success, New York 11042 gas flow checks prevent flash-back of the flame. (516) 437-8700 The compact, and streamlined designed Hydro-Torch Handpiece is precision made. Burner tips are fine-point, precision crafted to direct a controlled and precise heat exactly where you need it, even on the smallest, most 0 Portescap U.S. delicate jobs. manufacturers of incabloc'' and Vibrograf'··· COLON, Benjamin-New York MASANORI, Kaitsuka-Japan CORSE, Eugene-New York MEJIA, Gladys-New York CRISTO FORO, Mario P.-Michigan MENELEY, Jeff-Texas DAVILA, Rafael-Washington MITCHELL, Rosanne K.-Washington DAVIS, Charles E.-California MIZRAHI, Michael-California DHANA, George-New York MORRIS, Robert E.-Maryland DiCARLO, Joseph-New York MOTOAKI, Takeuchi-Japan DIXON, Harry W., Jr.-Maine MURPHY, Charles M.-Connecticut DREXLER, Dean-Iowa MATHEWS, William R., Jr.-Arizona DUGGAN, Paul-Massachusetts NOEL, G. W.-Texas ELINSKY, Michael A.-Michigan NORRIS, W. H.-Texas FARIES, John-California ODOM, Bobby E.-Mississippi FISHER, Patricia Ann-Washington OLBRICH, E. Dale-Connecticut FLEINER, Thomas A.-Illinois OLIVER, 0.-Texas GABRIEL, Melvin A.-Wisconsin OSHOKOTA, Joshua-Lagos, Nigeria We Salute These GENDRON, Daniel P.-Rhode Island PITTMAN, D. C.-Texas GEORGE, John-Kansas PEREZ, Miguel-New York GILBERT, Dennis-Louisiana POLK, Henry-Wisconsin New Members! GITTER, Frank L.-Wisconsin PRUSZYNSKI, Leo C.-Michigan GORMAN, Alfred E.-Alabama REMON, Francis B.-Massachusetts ACHTEL, Edward S.-Wisconsin GRIFFITH, C. H.-Texas RESLER, Donald A.-Alberta, Canada ADAIR, Geryi-Washington GULICK, Ronald Lee-California RITTER, Janice-California ADAMJI, A.-Bombay, India HACKER, Daniel B.-Michigan ROBOT HAM, William S.-Connecticut ANDERSON, John G.-Indiana HARDIN, John L.-Nebraska SCHREINER, Eugene-Saskatchewan, Canada AUVIL, Russel B.-California HI ROM ITSU, Hayashi-Japan SCHILKE, Richard M.-Arizona BAGGETT, Tom G.-Arizona HENDRICK, Ralph-Michigan SCHWAB, William G.-Florida BARNETT, Michael-Arizona HOOD, Steven-Alabama SIEZI, Saito-Japan BAUER, Merle C.-Texas HORNE, Russel H.-Michigan SHANKS, Joe L.-Texas BENNETT, James W.-Texas HUGHES, Carleton W.-New York SHANKS, Melvin E.-California BOCHES, Anthony F.-Pennsylvania IMHOF, Heinz W.-New York SHUGART, Cooksey-Tennessee BOGART, Dave-New York IVERSON, Roland A.-Illinois SMART, Eugene E.-Texas BOWLES, Jon A.-Michigan JENKINS, Lawrence-New York SORENSEN, Richard N.-Nebraska BROWN, LouisW.-Texas JOHNSON, Dudley S.-Louisiana STOVALL, D. E.-Indiana BROWNE, L. J.-Colorado KATSUTOSH I, Tojo-Japan SULLIVAN, Thomas J.-Ohio CALIENDO, Philip J.-Connecticut KAZUTO, Sunagawa-Japan THOMPSON, H. A.-Texas CHAPMP,N, David M.-Ohio KELLUM, William-Michigan TOWNSON, Edward W.-New York CHARTIER, Michael-Michigan KETTLE, Greg-New Jersey TSUNEAKI, Kawashima-Japan CELIS, Jose-New York KOESTER, Clyde L.-Montana VAN DYKE, Robert L.-lowa KOUJI, Hasebe-Japan VAZQUEZ, Israel-New York LAMB, Barry J.-New Jersey VELEZ, Danny-New York LAMB, Bob-California VOGT, David E.-Arizona LUCIA, Philip-New York VUONG, .Kinh An-Washington McCOSKEY, Emil C.-Florida WALLY, Karl-New Mexico McCORMACK, W. Joe-Georgia WATSON, Charles C.-Ontario, Canada MACE, Walter A.-Texas WETZEL, Richard W.-New Jersey EVEREADYTRADE MAliK MADISON, Mary-Washington WHITE, Ernest L., 11-Aiabama ******* ******* MAAR, Steven A.-Arizona WOLFE, Jeremy D.-New Jersey ALL AMERICAN •30-PAK* Our Readers Write THE CALL OF DUTY action was being taken to alleviate the SUPER SAVINGS duty by 1984. That is progress, but I'm Til July 4, '81 In reference to your comments sure all concerned would like to see on import duties in the March editorial, faster action. However, that does not MOST POPULAR PRICE EACH I would like to add that the American diminish the positive action taken by the 803 $ .95 Watch Association, of which Helbros 303 1.20 American Watch Association. Congratula­ Watches is a member, takes an active tions to you, to Bert Lowe, and the 323 .60 part in duty discussions. 343 . 60 others involved. 357 1.20 Your readership should be told 301 .95 that a reduction in duty of watch parts ANOTHER CALL 389 .80 has taken place, and by the year 1984, I just wanted to write and tell 393 .80 will have been reduced to approximately you of the response to an inquiry I made 386 .90 11%, or half of the 1979 duty. Balance to A WI regarding American-made watches. 392 .55 wheels, plates, jewels, etc. will also have On March 22, I received a phone call duties substantially reduced, although We carry a complete line from Mr. Jerry Jaeger of Sheboygan, of Eveready batteries the cost of parts may go up as every­ Wisconsin, who is one of A WI's directors. thing else does. We talked at length about the non­ CALL TOLL FREE availability of watches made in the U.S., 10 A.M.-5 P.M. Mon.-Fri. N.Y. time Ralph Kalichman and the reasons for this situation. I Nationwide: 1-800-431-2828 Director of Operations enjoyed talking to Mr. Jaeger. He answered N.Y. s·tate: 1-800-942-1944 Helbros Watches, Inc. all my questions and we had a nice IIA'f'f·TitQIIt~ t~tiiU~ conversation. I appreciate your referring Editor's Reply--My March editorial was my inquiry to him. Specializing in Watch/Calculator Batteries prompted by information I had received John Gredler P.O. Box 10 • Orangeburg, N.Y. 10962 from the WMJDA. I was unaware that Janesville, Wisconsin

6 Horological Times/May 1981 May 1981/Horological Times 7 Technically WATCHES By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

he cylinder escapement was invented in 1695 by Thomas T Tompion, Edward Barlow, and William Houghton. This escapement was improved by George Graham in 1720. THE Although the cylinder escapement is not manufactured any more, there are many valuable antique watches and clocks that have cylinder escapements. These watches and clocks CYLINDER need restoration from time to time; therefore, there is a need for the watchmaker and clockmaker to learn about ESCAPEMENT* these escapements and how to restore them. The cylinder escapement is a dead-beat escapement of the frictional rest type. The teeth of the escape wheel continually rest on the cylinder except for a short time during the drop. This design makes it unnecessary to use a pallet Figure 1 fork as with the detached lever escapement. Figure 1 shows an elevated view of the cylinder escapement. View A shows the escape wheel, View B shows an escape wheel tooth, View C shows the escape wheel pinion, View D shows the cylinder, View E shows the brass hub, View F shows the F upper pivot, and View G shows the lower pivot. The escape wheel is made of hardened and tempered steel although some of the earlier escape wheels were made of brass. The brass escape wheel did not work out very well and was soon aban­ doned in favor of the steel wheel. The brass wheel had to be made heavy in order to make it strong enough, and it wore very rapidly. The teeth of the cylinder escape wheel extend vertically from the wheel rim instead of horizontally as in most other wheels. The escape wheel pinion usually has six leaves and is very short due to lack of space, since the balance wheel must have space to operate above the escape wheel cock. The cylinder is a hardened and tempered steel tube. A slot is cut in the cylinder wall to a depth of almost one half of the

8 Horological Times/May 1981 * © 1981 Technically WATCHES

~

b

B c a A -r-e d... ~ I ft c

v

Figure 2 cylinder diameter. This slot allows the escape wheel teeth shows the cylinder completely assembled to its hub; the to act on the outside and inside of the cylinder. An additional balance wheel is staked on and the pivots have been made slot is cut just below this slot to clear the rim of the escape and finished . wheel when the teeth are acting on the inside of the cylinder. Figure 3 shows the names of the different parts of This slot must always be wide enough to allow the rim of the the escape wheel tooth and cylinder. The escape wheel tooth wheel to have sufficient clearance. The rim of the wheel shown at A has the following parts: Point "a" is the heel of should always be centered in this slot. Figure 2 shows the the tooth, "b" is the impulse face, "c" is the toe of the tooth, cylinder and its parts. View A shows the cylinder before it is "d" is the top of the tooth, and "e" is the pillar of the pivoted and fitted to the balance wheel. Part "a" is the cylin­ tooth. The cylinder shown in View B has the following parts: der, part "b" is the upper plug, and part "c" is the lower Point "f' is the outside wall of the cylinder, "g" is the inside plug. Point "d" is the receiving impulse face and point "e" wall, "h" is the receiving impulse face, and "i" is the discharge is the discharging impulse face. Point "f' is the groove that impulse face. gives clearance for the rim of the escape wheel. The cylinder Figure 4 shows the action of the escape wheel teeth plugs "b" and "c" are pressed friction-tight into the ends of on the cylinder. Let us assume that an escape wheel tooth has the cylinder. The pivots are made and finished after the plugs just locked up on the outside of the cylinder as at "a," Figure have been inserted into the cylinder. This gives assurance that 4. The balance wheel continues to travel in the direction of the pivots will be true with the cylinder. View B, Figure 2 the arrow. The escape wheel tooth continues to slide on the shows the brass hub that is frictioned onto the cylinder to outside of the cylinder, as in View "b ," until the balance support the balance wheel and hairspring collet. Point "a" wheel reaches the extent of its swing. Then the balance wheel is the balance seat. Point "b" is the riveting shoulder, and reverses in the direction of the arrow in View "c." When the Point "c" is the hairspring shoulder. View C of Figure 2 (Continued on page 54)

May 1981 /Horological Times 9 © 1981

Orville R. Hagans, CMC, CMW, FAWI, FBHI

Lever Clock Without Hairspring

he accompanying illustration shows a device T whereby the regular hairspring is entirely eliminated from the clock. The substitution device is easily con­ structed and using it to replace the hairspring is simple and effective. The arrangement consists of a silk cord, (View 1 in the drawing), a very fine wire spring (View 2), and a cam, or regulator (View 3). A silk cord is attached to a small roller on the balance staff. The point of attach­ ment for the cord on the roller is such that when the impulse jewel is in the center of the fork slot, the pull of the cord is slack. When the clock is set in motion, the silk cord will wrap itself around the roller. The tension of the spring (View 2) will return the balance to center when the balance again receives an impulse, the silk cord being wrapped around the roller once more in the op­ posite direction. This action is continuous, the same as though a hairspring were employed. The timing of the clock is accomplished by the unashamed and unafraid to bring in problems for in­ regulator. When moving the regulator toward the fast struction where new methods of handling the customer side, it will increase the tension of the spring and the would be taught, etc. There is a fertile field for fraternal speed of the balance increases naturally. Decreasing the activity in every guild. tension of the spring will decrease the speed of the To those who express indifference toward the balance. guild, I would remind them that generally they are men This is an interesting experiment and perhaps who think enough of themselves and their families to some of our readers will try it out. protect themselves with as much life and accident insurance as they can carry; they pay dues to all kinds of mystic and secret fraternities, subscribe to a number of charitable and church societies, and a number of nonsensical campaigns which they themselves do un­ Now, a word to ... willingly. However, to the most important of all frater­ THE FELLOW WHO HAS nities they remain indifferent. How long can a watch­ NOTHING LEFT TO LEARN maker, indifferent and listless, careless and abusive toward There are still a great number of watchmakers who have his mode of livelihood, retain the respect of his customer gotten lost in the rut of self-esteem without giving much and his community? By being alive and enthused with thought to the fact that the trade is leaving them behind. his work and interested in his fellow watchmakers, he New standards of perfection, new methods of timing, can instill a like feeling in his customers and friends new materials, and new tools are all of utmost im­ to the good and success of his business. portance to the well-being of the workman, and still Above all, it must be remembered that we as there are watchmakers who refuse to share experiences watchmakers are going to be attached to our benches and confidences with others. and loupes the rest of our useful days. Why not learn The most important steps in the life of the to respect our work, take pride in it, learn all we can trade are the institutional plans of the guilds wherein every day, and keep up with the times? And the times every guild will engage in the teaching and discussing of demand of us that we maintain membership in AWI and the various phases of our work. Here one should feel learn to understand our fellow workmen! 'illJB

10 Horological Times/May 1981 AVAILABLE AGAIN!

GENERAL TIME FIT -UP MOVEMENT

Number 949 GENERAL TIME fit-up movement. Bottom set. To fit Seth Thomas "manager" clocks.

Stock No...... 600-19-090 PRICE $7.50

AMERICAN MADE PENDULUM RODS EMPIRE CLOCK INC.

1295 RICE STREET - ST PAUL, MINNESOTA 55117 612-487-2885 3 PIECE CONSTRUCTION OVERALL BLADE BLADE LENGTH LENGTH WIDTH STOCK NO. 16" ...... 1 1/4" ...... 3/16" ...... 260-75-901 16" ...... 11/2" ...... 3/16" ...... 260-75-902 16" ...... 1 9/16" .....1/4" ...... 260-75-903 16" ...... 1 3/4" ...... 3/16" ...... 260-75-904 ASSORTMENT OF 12 OF ABOVE PREPACKAGED ...... 260-50-200 These pendulum rods come 12/pkg. and are not available individually. NATION'S LARGEST DISTRIBUTOR OF CLOCK MOVEMENTS AND PARTS

CLOCK DOMES Feel free to order one of our catalogs #80 with your next order. Or, you may order just the catalog for $3.50, refundable with a $25.00 purchase when 7.95 ea. ~ accompanied by the form enclosed in the catalog. 2-6 6.95 7-12 6.00 EMPIRE

5Y2" x 11" glass replacement globes for the popular 400-day CLOCK INC. clocks. Stock No...... 400-73-420 1295 RICE STREET

ST. PAUL, MN. 55117 612/487-2885

May 1981/Horological Times 11 Good &Welfare Committee Report

Dorothy Aderman. Chairman

Chemical Hazards For The Horologist By Stephen A. Sheldahl

chloride in a closed area can result in (ACGIH). The limits are called Threshold This article comes to us from A WI both short-term (anesthetic and narcotic) Limit Values (TLV) and are broken into member Stephen A. Sheldahl of and long-term (a buildup of carbon two parts as follows: Littleton, Colorado. Mr. Sheldahl, monoxide in the blood) effects. TLV-TWA This is the Time an engineer with Western Electric Most commercial containers of Weighted Average or the maximum of Denver who holds BS and MEE the common solvents carry warnings allowed average concentration for a degrees, has compiled and con­ about proper ventilation and contact worker under constant 8-hour-a-day, tributed this important information with the skin. Proper ventilation means 40-hour-a-week exposure. in order to help fellow horologists that clean air is blowing toward the user TLV-STEL This is the maximum choose safe chemicals and safe from the side or rear while contaminated concentration allowed for widely spaced procedures for their work. We air is moved away from the body. In 15-minute exposures. In most industrial trust that all A WI members will some cases, however, if you can smell applications, these two limits must both avail themselves of this oppor­ the chemical, the concentration is already be met in order to protect the worker. tunity to update their knowledge too high. Most of these chemicals are Note that the Maximum Al­ in the rapidly advancing area of meant to dissolve something, usually lowable Concentration (MAC) value is chemical safety. paint products, grease, or dirt. Obviously, out-of-date and no longer used. the skin's natural oils and greases are For the chemicals discussed in equally soluble. Removal of these pro­ this article, the 1980 TLV's are those tective oils can lead to skin problems. listed. Those with an asterisk (*) after the oday we know that most of the More subtle is the ability of the body TLV indicate that new, lower thresholds chemicals which a horologist might T to absorb chemicals through the skin are being proposed. Also listed will be the have a need or desire to use are toxic, directly to the blood. Therefore, going Closed Cup Flash Point (CCFP) which is in some degree, to the human body. to the effort of creating a well-ventilated an indication of the relative degree of How toxic is toxic? It depends upon room can be overshadowed by using flammability. When the explosive danger a combination of the degree of the bare hands to handle the parts in the is mentioned, it assumes the presence exposure plus the duration. The pro­ chemical. Special note will be made of of open flame or other source of ignition. fessional horologist who deals with these those chemicals especially susceptible to This could mean the hot water heater chemicals day in and day out has a being absorbed through the skin. pilot light, furnace, or the arc from the different and obviously more serious lathe motor brushes. problem than the once-a-week hobbyist. Of course, dangerous chemicals However, it may be the hobbyist who is should not be swallowed. Though I would For the most part, these limit most prone to a serious accident due not expect a repair person to chug-a-lug values alone tell no story. The limits to the lack of knowledge and the lack a can of acetone or methanol, all dan­ are set for different reasons for different of consistent activity in handling dan­ gerous chemicals must be kept out of chemicals and, therefore, more infor­ gerous chemicals. the reach of children. This is especially mation is needed to determine the I have seen a number of articles true of the home-based basement or relative toxicity or danger. In some and discussions pushing the use of non­ garage shop. cases, industrial limits are set to simply flammable chemicals (such as methylene In order to get a feeling for prevent daily irritation. In other cases, chloride for paint and varnish removal) the relative (and sometimes absolute) the limit is set to prevent either an to eliminate the obvious fire hazard. danger of the common chemicals used immediate loss of a function or a buildup However, that does not mean that the as paint and varnish removers, cleaners, in the body of a long-term poison. And, non-flammable chemical is safe to use and solvents, one must look at many in some cases, a very low limit is set to without other safegurads. To go back properties and industrial limits. Entire show that the chemical has highly poi­ to the methylene chloride example, books are written about such properties sonous or carcinogenic properties. For though it will not burn, it will decompose and limits and how to interpret each of each chemical, I summarize the 1980 and emit deadly phosgene gas if it is them. One such set of limits with dis­ data as published by the ACGIH as well heated enough. Also, though ventilation cussions of their uses and dangers is as data taken from the 1968 edition is not necessary to eliminate the chance published by the American Conference of Dangerous Properties of Industrial of explosion or fire, use of methylene of Governmental Industrial Hygienists Materials by N. Irving Sax. Included in

12 Horological Times/May 1981 Good & Welfare Committee Report the summary are comments on how the cause serious problems to the body. is a very dangerous substance. It is chemicals affect the body and whether Their use cannot be recommended at all. absorbed through the skin as easily as the problem is that of a short-term or the vapors are inhaled. Extreme care long-term nature. Benzene (Benzol, Phenyl Hydride, Coal must be used in handling mercury because Naptha, and many other names) of its deadly qualities. If mercury is The chemicals are listed by TLV-TWA 10 p.p.m. spilled, fumes will be generated for a as many of their common names as TLV-STEL 25 p.p.m. long time in spite of efforts to clean it possible. For example, benzene is benzol, CCFP 12°F up. This is especially true of spills onto phenyl hydride, and coal naptha, etc., (Benzene's odor cannot be detected porous surfaces such as carpet or con­ while benzine is also naptha VM&P, until concentrations reach about 100 crete. and petroleum spirits. Such subtle name p.p.m.) differences often are the difference be­ Benzene is a solvent and thinner Lead tween a relatively safe solvent (petroleum which is very seldom used commercially. TLV-TWA approx ..02 p.p.m. spirits or benzine) and a hazardous When inhaled or absorbed through the TLV-STEL approx ..06 p.p.m. poison (benzene). I surely cannot guaran­ skin, it first causes a narcotic effect. Lead is often melted to pour tee that all of the names are listed, since It then attacks bone marrow where molded parts or weights. Extreme care that would be as hard as finding all blood cells are created. It is a suspected must be used. Extreme ventiliation is synonyms for a common word in the carcinogen, especially for leukemia. It is required if lead fumes are present. dictionary. also highly flammable. When combined with tin to These chemicals are often found form solder, the problem is still present, in the market place as mixutres of many Chloroform (Trichloromethane) but the time of exposure and tempera­ different things. For example, paint TLV-TWA 10 p.p.m. tures used reduce the hazard somewhat. removers are often various mixtures TLV-STEL 50 p.p.m. of methanol, petroleum spirits, acetone, Non-flammable toluol, and methylene chloride. There­ Chloroform is an industrial sol­ DANGEROUS SOLVENTS fore, the stripper can range from being vent whose use was well-known as an The following substances can be very very flammable to fully non-flammable. anesthetic and dry cleaner. It first attacks dangerous if not used properly. Long­ Though in all cases a user would want as an anesthetic and then can cause term effects are often very serious. Though to use gloves to protect his hands from damage to the heart, liver, kidneys, these items can probably be used safely the remover, the addition of the non­ and affects offspring. It is a suspected with good ventilation and skin protec­ flammable, relatively safe methylene carcinogen. tion, there are safer chemicals for or­ chloride causes most common vinyl dinary users. gloves to dissolve. Clock and watch Carbon Tetrachloride (Tetrachlorometh- cleaning solutions, such as the L & R ane) Perchloroethylene (Tetrachloroethylene, Manufacturing Company products, are TLV-TWA 10 p.p.m.* Carbon Dichloride) also mixtures of a number of things. L & R TLV-STEL 20 p.p.m. TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m. * does not define the contents, but does Non-flammable Non-flammable state that the very dangerous chemicals Carbon tetrachloride, once com­ (Odor can be detected about 50 p.p.m., are not present and that they will provide mon as a solvent and dry cleaner, is sometimes as low as 5 p.p.m.) estimated TL V data. In the case of all very seldom used now. It is highly toxic This very common solvent and mixtures, the danger level changes from when inhaled, causing headaches, gid­ cleaner is now becoming suspect as that of either of the individual elements, diness, and liver dysfunction. Liver and being more dangerous than previously and the safety precautions should pro­ kidney failure have been known to occur thought. It primarily causes nervous bably be those for the most dangerous even after very low concentrations have system disorders such as dizziness, component in the mix. been inhaled. It is also a suspected vertigo, and unconsciousness. It also Those chemicals which are most carcinogen. Carbon tet emits phosgene causes eye irritation. Long-term effects likely to find their way into the watch gas if heated to decomposition. include problems with the liver, heart, and clock shop will now be listed with kidneys, and skin. It enters the body their TLV statistics and also their CCFP 1, 1, 2-Trichloroethane (Vinyl Trichloride) equally easily through the skin and when numbers when applicable. We will begin TLV-TWA 10 p.p.m. inhaled. Short term exposure appears with the most dangerous chemicals­ TLV-STEL 20 p.p.m. to be not too bad. Studies are in progress those which should be avoided at all Non-flammable regarding its effects as a carcinogen, but costs-and proceed through chemicals Vinyl trichloride is used as a no findings are available to prove it one which can only be used with strict solvent for fats and resins. It is more way or the other. If heated to decom­ precautions to those which can be recom­ potent than chloroform as a nervous position, it can emit highly toxic chloride mended for everyday use. Please note system depressant. It can kill in large fumes. that the abbreviation "p.p.m." stands concentrations by respiratory arrest. for parts per million. Trichloroethylene Mercury TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m.* VERY DANGEROUS SOLVENTS AND TLV-TWA approx ..007 p.p.m. TLV-STEL 150 p.p.m. CHEMICALS (vapor form) Non-flammable The following solvents and chemicals are TLV-STEL approx ..02 p.p.m. (Odor can be detected at levels of about very dangerous. Some are carcinogenic, Mercury, found in pendulums 100 p.p.m.) many are highly flammable, and all of large floor clocks and French clocks, Trichloroethylene is used as a (Continued on page 59)

May 1981/Horological Times 13 AWl Bench Courses/1981

t'rograms Instructors A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jeager B Citizen LCD Alarm Carpenter C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton C (b) ESA/ET A Quartz Analog Broughton D (a) Seiko 4300 Ladies' Quartz Analog Smith Smith SWISS WATCH MATERIAL D (b) Seiko LCD Chronograph/Alarm D (c) Seiko 0903A Men's Quartz Analog Smith Genuine packaged Bestfit parts for Swiss move­ E lntro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson ments such as AS, F F, ETA and others. 12 F (a) Bulova Quartz Analog (SMQ) Opp assorted pieces including train wheels, winding F (b) ESA LCD Chronograph Opp JJarts, screws, etc. ONLY $2.95 for each G ESA Digital/Analog Biederman assortment. H Clock Restoration Benesh 019030 ...... $2.95 asst. - ~

/TSTH£8£$T MAY 3 E Seattle, WA Nelson 17 0 (b) Zanesville, OH Smith t-IJ.\~lD 17 E Kansas City, MO Nelson 23.24 H Los Angeles, CA Benesh

JUNE This one really works! It's expensive but it will last a 7 E Rochester, NY Nelson lifetime. Jaws are adjustable to 14 0 South Bend, IN Smith fit various sized hands and all 14 A Clark, NJ Jaeger types of clocks. Pusher is always centered. Screw pressure pulls hands from post without JULY touching the dial. Spring 19 E Roanoke, VA Nelson tension return. Can also be 19 A Chicago,IL Jaeger used for light gear pulling. 21 A Toronto, Canada Jaeger Sw~m~~ . 1 26 A Rochester, NY Jaeger 061142 ...... $35.50 each 31 A Portland, ME Jaeger fl!af!RoJe COMPlETE BAlANCES AUGUST less than HAlF price 3 A Hartford, CT Jaeger Quality balance with the LaRose 4 A New York, NY Jaeger Label for ONLY $1.95. Complete 11 A Pittsburgh, PA Jaeger balances available for these 29,30 H Indianapolis, IN Benesh popular models. ETA 1080-1256 ...... $1.95 Standard 1686...... $1.95

SINCE 1877 s. rt?ai~~lnc. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL Worldwide Distributors to Horologists 220 West King Street, Lancaster, Pa. 17603 Offers you the most comprehensive courses in: ,~;;.. ;s 5 Ia tte:/ Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N.C. 27420, U.S.A. Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving Send for free brochure An Equal Opportunity Facility

14 Horological Times/May 1981 THE CLOCK CLEANING CHEMICALS PAUL M. PLAlZMAN RECOMMENDS: Demonstrated at National Regional and Chapter (standing room only) clock cleaning workshops conducted since 1974 by Paul Martin Platzman, inter­ national authority on ultrasonic clock cleaning techniques and equipment.

Can't get those clock movements Super Clean Clean enclosed main spring barrels and Brite? Spots, blemishes, uneven ap­ pearance; no matter what you do, no matter without disassembly in less than three how long you leave it in the cleaner? Mad? If minutes. (The Platzman method). Clean you see red,-you will switch to my high grade a complete movement without dis­ red label X-SON brand clock cleaning solu­ tions. assembl_y in 2 minutes.

Save even more-on orders totalling over • CONSISTENT REPRODUCIBLE RESULTS YOU CAN $100.00-deduct 5%. AWl members: deduct DEPEND ON! 15% off total order. Prices are direct from • PERFECT COMPANION FOR YOUR ULTRASON-X manufacturer-UPS delivered to your door, CLEANER mainland USA. No charge for freight or handling. • MAXIMUM CLEANING STRENGTH FOR TOP PER­ FORMANCE You will save from 25% to 30%, maybe several • HIGH GRADE PENETRATING FORMULA GETS BUSH- hundred dollars or more a year and get the INGS CLEAN results you want. And here's a service you With each purchase you receive a complimentary copy of positively can't get from your present supplier­ the Ultrasonic Horology monthly newsletter loaded with Free expert consultation! My customers can info on how to solve tough cleaning problems. Not telephone me anytime for personal advice and available anywhere else. Save every copy to compile assistance on any clock cleaning problem. limited edition cleaning textbook.

Send coupon with check or money order (your AWl#) to: Paul M. Platzman-NAWCC #36803, c/o Ultrasonic Horology, Inc., 21 Lumber Road, Roslyn, L.l., N.Y. 11576. Telephone 516-621-6777.

Name NAWCC# Money back guarantee! If not satisfied, keep the product and get a full refund. Address

State Zip PRODUCT DESCRIPTION PRICE/GAL. QUANT. TOTAL

2A Concentrate (ammoriated): Dilute with water-makes many gallons-Brightener-Cleaner $1S.OO S Ammoniated Clock Brightening & Cleaning Solvent. Strong (rinse with #4) $12.00 SA Non-ammoniated Clock Brightening & Cleaning Solvent. Fast gentle-(rinse with #5) $14.50 7 Rinser-Neutralizer for any petroleum distillate. Brightener. $11.00 4 Degreasing, Rinsing & Instant Dry Solvent (rinse for #S) Hair spring cleaner quality. $15.50 5 Degreasing, Rinsing & Super Fast dry solvent (rinse for #SA) For closed barrels. $1S.OO SUB-TOTAL LESS DISCOUNT Minimum order-2 gallons-mix-match. No dealers or distributors, please! TOTAL

Send SS.OO for 12 1ssue subscription to monthly nows[etter Ultrasonic HoroiOjiY· Typical topics: ' Cleaning Solutions How To Extend L1fe and Cut Cost: ' Cleaning 11\0\18ments wtthout disassembly in :!0 to 60 seconds.· My Ups, in just one newsletter, will save you at least 4 t1mes your $5.00-money back if not convinced I

May 1981/Horological Times 15 Essence of Clock Repair©, .. ,

Part LX By Sean C. (Pat) Monk

Antique Gilbert Calendar Clock (Circa 1880)

his unusual spring-wound 8-day clock The going (time) and striking hour wheel, however, is a small gear (c) T with a simple calendar mechanism is trains are generally similar to the stan­ which, rotating with the hour wheel, housed in a walnut case typical of the dard American movements described in makes one revolution in 24 hours. This Victorian era. A patent date of June 3, previous articles. One special feature, gear (c) itself meshes with an inter­ 1879 is stamped on it, and the clock was however, is the wide arc of motion of mediate wheel (d) which is retained by manufactured by the William L. Gilbert the pendulum. This can be attributed a bridge (e). The intermediate wheel, Clock Company of Winsted, Connecticut. to its deep-locking, large diameter (1-5/16 therefore, will also rotate once every Figure 1 shows the actual clock on the in.), 34-toothed escape wheel which 24 hours. On a disc attached to the wall. engages with a common steel strip anchor intermediate wheel is a steel pin (f). The backboard shows a pen­ pallet. This is the same escapement design Once every 24 hours, this steel pin ciled repair date of 4-27-87 and a cor­ used by the Gilbert Company in so many engages with the calendar wheel (b) responding repair initial, E.G.H., in fancy varieties of their clocks, including their previously mentioned and rotates it script. ladder chain movements and floor clocks. one tooth. To keep the calendar wheel The specific unusual feature of in position and prevent slippage, a brass Clock collectors may notice a this movement, however, is the simple retaining spring (g) holds it in position. similarity in the case style between our calendar gearing arrangement situated A brass tubular extension of the calendar clock and the famous, much sought-after immediately behind the front plate wheel protrudes through the front plate, Gilbert "Columbia" model. Replicas of (Figure 2). This arrangement is comprised encompassing the hour wheel tube and the "Columbia" clock are commonly of three extra gears, and we shall en­ center arbor. The calendar hand is at­ produced today. Not always reproduced deavor, via our sketch (Figure 2) to ex­ tached to this extension. today, however, are duplications of plain how this works. the original reversed stencils on the The hour wheel is indicated The pallet is mounted on a front glass panel. Our clock has the as "a." Situated between the hour wheel separate lower brass bridge (h). This original reversed silvertone stencil with and the front clock plate is the calendar bridge is secured to the front plate by a stork motif. wheel (b). Attached to the front of the a steel rivet. The top pivot of the pallet Figure 1 ...... Figure 3

:: r :::::::

16 Horological Times/May 1981 Essence of Clock Repair is held in position by a thin steel strip with the incorporation of an adjustable the pallet arm. The tip of the notch is (i), this being lightly tensioned against the block canying the gong. This is not shown in the sketch close to the inter­ pivot and acting as an upper bridge. shown in our sketch. However, the gong mediate wheel disc. The brass pallet The count wheel (j) and count unit is mounted on the inside of the arm, riveted to the strip steel pallet at hook (k) on this model may be observed clock's backboard and may be rotated its upper extremity, can be observed to be heavily defined, the count wheel to its correct position and locked by a lightly hooked around the pendulum being of large diameter (2-5/8 in.) and set screw positioned in the block. leader at its lower end. well-slotted to accommodate the fall Figure 2 is a diagrammatic Figure 3 is a photo of the actual of the thin-bladed count hook at the sketch showing the layout of the main movement held in a clamp, showing the hours and half-hours. components as shown from the front front plate. One may wish to compare The striking hammer arm (not plate. All the parts mentioned (a, b, c, d, it with the sketch, Figure 2, for com­ shown in sketch) resides behind the e, f, g, h, i, j, k, and 1) are marked. The ponent identification. pendulum leader (1) and emerges from the steel pin on the intermediate wheel This movement was loaned to us bottom of the movement. See Figure 3. disc (f) is marked with an arrow for the for this article by Stan Warren, one of The suspension spring forms the upper purpose of clarity. our excellent young mechanics. Stan is part of the pendulum leader and is shown The brass retaining spring (g) also a collector and a knowledgeable fixed to the center of the front plate. is held at its upper extremity by the historian. Our thanks go to him, therefore, The striking hammer arm may bridge (unmarked) residing under the not only for the loan of the clock, but be bent for adjustment. However, a re­ escape wheel to the right. It may be also for his help and knowledge in the markable special feature has been added followed down to a notch, curling behind preparation of this particular article. liCII3 Figure 2. Diagrammatic Sketch of Antique Gilbert Calendar Clock. Scale: Approximately Full Size

0

0 0 - ' ' ' \ 0 \ \ \ I I I I r ,,I

I I ' \ ., " \ \ ., ' "" \ \ \ \ \ I I I I I I I \ ( I / I \ I ' / / ' / ' ., / ' ' ...... // ...... _...... ,."" L

May 1981 /Horological Times 17 WMJDA Looks Ahead To A Ne""W" Decade

he Watch Material and Jewelry Distributors Association T took a look into the future of their organization during their annual convention held at La Costa, near Carlsbad, California, March 24-28. The theme of the meeting was a look "Into the SO's." President John Cassedy, of the Cas-Ker Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, reported that the group's membership continued to grow, with a record turn-out present at this year's convention. However, he sounded a note of warning that the distributors must concentrate on building a close personal relationship with the retailers in their areas and stress service and convenience to the customer if they are to con­ tinue to be a vital part of the marketing pattern in the years to come. (See adjoining page for Mr. Cassedy's complete message.) A new slate of officers was elected to govern the group for the next two years: Karl Esslinger, Esslinger & Co., Inc., St. Paul, MN is the newPresident;Dominic Priore, Niagara Jewelry Supply Corp., Buffalo, NY is First Vice-president; Denis Gaber, Ray Gaber Co., Pittsburgh, PAis Second Vice­ president; Robert Mahar, Mahar & Engstrom Co., Inc., Boston, MA is Third Vice-president, and Edward Soergel, The E. & J. Swigart Co., Cincinnati, OH will serve as Treasurer. New officers selected to guide WMJDA for the next two years The business meetings featured the importance of are shown above. (Front row, left to right) Edward Soergel, implementing a plan for internal security and the value of Treasurer; Karl Esslinger, President; Dominic Priore, First Vice­ computers in running a more efficient distributor operation. president. (Back row, left to right) Robert Mahar, Third Vice­ president and Denis Gaber, Second Vice-president. Chris Gugas, Sr., Director of Professional Security Consul­ tants in Hollywood, CA urged that distributors, and retailers as well, tighten up their present internal security procedures The second feature on the business program was to reduce pilferage by employees and shoplifting by cus­ a presentation on "Computers and Computer Programs for tomers. He recommended a pre-employment polygraph Distributors." Gregory S. Staszko from Main, Hurdman & examination, among other measures, to check out a pros­ Cranstoun in Cincinnati, Ohio, headlined this portion of the pective employee. He stressed that profit margins are so small program. these days that a businessman cannot afford to let any of Special events included a luncheon recognizing his profits slip out the back door. William J. Kilb, Kilb & Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, who was selected as the WMJDA's "Man of the Year." Curtis Mick, retired executive with L & R Manufacturing Co., Kearney, New Jersey, was the honored guest at the annual Awards Ready Now! ____,_, Reception and Banquet which was held on Saturday as the convention officially ended. Th~:~L "Clock QUESTION & ANSWER Book" The 1982 gathering will be held at the Greenbriar in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, March 2-7. (See

The most significant book on clock page 36 for more Convention news.) repair to be published in this century! Only 224 large, BY, x 11 inch pages, including $1Q95 many original drawings and photographs. Postpaid Need Technical Information FAST? ORDER TODAY! Send a check or money-o rder to "Clock Q & A Boo k" at: AWl MEMBERS CAN USE THE AWl PRESS 3700 Harrison Ave. HOTLINE (513) Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 661-4636

18 Horo/ogical Times/May 1981 WMJDA Presiden_t~s Report

Outgoing President John Cassedy made A. The voice of the wholesaler/jobber, i.e., the following remarks to open the annual the industry barometer of business meeting of the Watch Material and conditions. Jewelry Distributors Association, held B. The place for associate members to at Rancho La Costa, California last contact their customers in one cen­ month. We believe the report should tral area. be of interest to all our readers. C. The place where we can find resources or supplies that we might need to Good Morning' round out our lines. It is with both satisfaction and D. The place where we can address issues a degree of concern that I address you with major suppliers. today. I believe it is my obligation, as E. It is the place, since we are mostly President, to review and evaluate the independent entrepreneurs, where we position of the WMJDA, and to project can share ideas on perpetuation of our some thoughts as to how we could im­ businesses and learn about maximizing prove this association. our family estate holdings. The good news is that we are F. The place where we can get informa­ a sound and vigorous organization. wholesaling." tion on how to improve our business Membership is steady and growing, The services that we have to practices. with a healthy attendance record at the perform are in some manner marketing I can go on and on, but would annual conventions. Our financial con­ functions. Many do not stop to think like to pause so we can ask ourselves if dition is sound, as you will hear in the and realize the complexity, the dif­ we, as a group, shouldn't have more Treasurer's Report. We have an excel­ ficulty or the expense in performing interest in the visitations that went lent group of executives serving as direc­ them. It is up to WMJDA to continue to along so well for a couple of years, and tors. illuminate the thinking to be certain shouldn't we be developing more business The bad news, if we care to call that we as members, realize who we are seminars on such topics as computers it that, is that I don't believe we are and what must be, and that the message now that they are almost a must in most using WMJDA's capabilities to full poten­ and image are transmitted to those businesses? tial. companies that need and should use our Internal theft, shrinkage, or Obviously, our overall mission is services. embezzlement does exist. You can close to make our businesses profitable and We carry a tremendous load your eyes to it, but that will not make keep the distribution function under for the operations of the manufacturers, it disappear. our control. When suppliers are seeking importers, and suppliers if we perform Some of us will learn things distribution of their products, it is im­ well, and, as a group, furnish good from Mr. Chris Gugas' presentation portant that they desire to have WMJDA distribution of their products in all which will enable us to eliminate a members cover their market. markets. substantial amount of shrinkage at Let us review some history Let's list a few areas that we can savings of thousands of dollars a year. about the concept of marketing with cover: The computer programs to be presented distributors. Over the past half century 1. Buy and sell merchandise to have good could quite conceivably guide you to a there has been considerable business lines. sound decision rather than a bad one on literature concerning the value added 2. Sell principally to retailers. the use of a computer by your firm. The to the economic system from functions 3. Usually carry stock on hand. cost of a bad decision on an initial performed by independent distributors­ 4. Purchase in large quantities and computer installation can run into five often called middlepeople, wholesalers, redistribute in smaller quantities. or six figures. jobbers, or resellers. L. D. H. Weld wrote 5. Ex tend credit to retailers. What you learn here could be in 1917, "Elimination of middlemen ... 6. Usually have salespersons or repre­ extremely valuable in helping you to does not mean the elimination of mar­ sentatives covering the market. reach a correct decision. keting functions, which still have to be 7. Make shipments and deliveries. We have the vehicle in WMJDA performed." 8. Often service merchandise sold and to expand into more areas . . . if it is 42 years later, R. D. Buzzell render advice to customers. important. By spreading the costs of a wrote in 1959, "Eliminating the so-called And, probably most important, good seminar, it is really quite minimal middleman, it is now understood, does is the close personal relationship with for the group compared with going it not eliminate the economic functions customers that has value beyond any alone. performed, nor necessarily reduce the pricing, shipping, or whatever services. Are we taking enough business costs associated with those functions." l repeat; we as distributors are specialists time to expand for our own good? Another I 0 years later, R. S. in the performance of a vital marketing We are, I repeat, a sound and Lopata wrote in 1969, "Manufacturers function. vigorous organization. WMJDA continues have evaluated distribution alternatives, WMJDA, in my opinion, has to improve its position and its image. tried them out, and later abandoned done a creditable job in establishing a With each of us being more concerned these attempts to 'eliminate the middle­ forum for exposing ourselves as buyers about how we can use WMJDA, we man.' They have learned, albeit at sub­ through our associates program. This can and should expand our position. I stantial tuition fees, that they can elimin­ convention is more than just an enjoyable thank you for your support during my ate the middleman, but they cannot get together of friends and competitors presidency and I sincerely hope we have eliminate the economic function of in similar businesses. lt is: all grown stronger!

May 1981 /Horological Times 19 Questions and Answers/ Henry B. Fried

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

Duplex Escapement Watches

I have a problem for the Question problem it would be appreciated. milled out escape teeth, different from and Answer Department. I have Thank you. those of the New England Watch Com­ Qa 6/0 size watch, model SS, made pany. by "The New England Watch Company." Robert White If all this seems complicated, This watch has the duplex escapement Angleton, Texas believe me, it is. However, to tell you with 13 long teeth and 13 short teeth which factory your movement is from, on the escape wheel. The hairspring is The United States Watch Com­ a photograph of good quality and size virtually gone. Can you furnish infor­ pany was one of two companies, would have to be examined. At any mation as to how many beats per hour A both with the same name. The first rate, staffs are no longer available and the balance must operate to have a new was established in 1864 and was situated would have to be made. hairspring vibrated? I figured to the in Marion, New Jersey, across the river gears that it should be 18,345.6, but from New York City. Those products this is an odd number, so it must be made in New Jersey find more devotees I am interested in a reference book wrong. among collectors than the products of that describes the clocks built by Also, could you recommend a firm the other company, which was situated QAchille Brocot (1817-1878) of that can vibrate a new hairspring? in Waltham and not at all associated with Paris. Thank you. the Waltham Watch Company. The only references that I can find High grade movements were pro­ describe the suspension that he invented, Don E. Dahler duced by the New Jersey firm, some but he also must have made clocks. Madison, Wisconsin with a butterfly-shaped opening to I understand that his trademark is re­ reveal the escapement. corded as an AB inside a five-pointed The company in New Jersey star. You did a very good job of figuring failed in 1872, and was reorganized have a bronze mantel clock out the vibration rate for your as the Marion Watch Company. That with a rectangular plate, French-type ANew England Watch Co. model. company too failed in 1874, its equip­ movement, time and strike, with rack The actual vibration rate, according ment being sold to the Auburndale and snail chiming train. The back plate to my records, is 18,365. Have it vibrated Watch Company, the Fitchburg Watch is marked with a five-pointed star with to as near to that as possible and you'll Company, the Independent Watch Com­ an "A" on one side and a "B" on the be in business again. pany, and the E. F. Bowman Company other, inside an ovaL The top of the For those who may read this in of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. regulator gear and the suspension spring the Horological Times, here are the other The United States Watch Com­ are plainly marked "Brocot." New England Watch Co. vibration rates: pany of Waltham was started in 1884. All this leads me to believe that Their first model was a 16-size stem the clock was made by Achille Brocot. Series I-J ...... 17,16 0 winder. Its center plate was raised in a Is there a book that describes his clocks? L-G ...... 17,718 step so that the center wheel would have If so, is it available to members through S- ...... 18,480 clearance above the barrel. They con­ the AWl lending program? Thank you. Z- ...... 18,803 tinued until 1896. However, a United K-R-B-N-0 ...... 18,000 States Watch Company, which was, in a Melvin S. Kaye A-X ...... 17,850 way, a continuation of the Waltham­ Short Hills, New Jersey S-S . .... • ...... 18,365 based company, bought some of the T-M ...... 18,000 original company's equipment, and bought some equipment from the Howard All of these, as you know, used There is no book on the work of Clock Company which had also been Achilles Brocot itself There have the duplex escapement, now being bought from the Waltham-based company, discussed in a three-installment series A been numerous articles on his and then turned around and sold it to in Horological Times. {See page 26-ed.j timepieces and inventions. I would the same-named New Jersey company. assume that the AB with five-pointed Then, to make things even more com­ star is the mark of Achilles Brocot, plicated, the New Jersey company sold a French horological genius. Tardy's or moved the equipment up to Waltham. Dictionnaire des Horlogers Francais has I have a 16-size United States That enterprise ended about 1903. a few words on Achille Brocot. It is Watch Co. pocket watch. I cannot A firm by the name of Suffolk mentioned that he was born in Paris in Qfind this listing in any of my new Watch Company marketed some models 181 7 and died in 1874. He was situated or old manuals. which I've seen and suspect were the at Rue d'Orleans au Marais in 1840 and at I need to get a balance staff for products of the New Jersey company. it. If you could shed any light on my These had duplex escapements with (Continued on page 49)

20 Horological Times/May 1981 Your customers may be better off if you supply a brand new movement.

FACTORY NEW MOVEMENTS ALL 17 JEWEL* -ALL INCABLOC ~00~@00 SHOCK PROTECTED*

Often, your customer will be better off if you supply a brand 59-21 new movement. Listed below are a number of movements we carry in stock. We suggest you save this page for future reference as the need develops. (List is in order of size.)

CAliBER SIZE HEIGHT FEATURES PRICE 1977-2 FHF 59-21 33/4 X 10L 3.50mm $Zl.70 AS 1977-2 5V2 X 63AL 3.60mm 25.40 FEF 6632 -!)'~fa. X 63/4L 29.10 ETA 2442 6L round 3.20mm 47.30 ETA 2412. 63J4L reund 3.40mm 26.10 FHF 69-N So/c X 8L 3.55mm 18.65 FHF 691 63/4 X 8L 4.10mm Sweep Second 20.05 69-21 ETA 2512·1 73AL round 2.90mm 25.15 ETA 2551 7~L raund 2.9Qmm Auto, Date, Swe.ep 34.95 FHF 371 8o/cL round 4.05mm Sweep S,econd 20.95 P7040 10V2L round 3.10mm Small Second 26.80 FHF 969 11 YlL round 4.55mm Sweep Second 17.95 FHF 969-4 11V7L round 4.55mm Sweep, Date •19.80 AS 1951 11V7L round 4.50mm Sweep, Date 20.30 AS 2066 111hL round 5.95mm Auto, Day/Date Sweep Second 31 .50 ETA 2783 11112L round 5.20mm Auto, Date, Sweep 34.30 969 AS 5206 12L (O!Jnd 6.50mm Auto, Day/Date Sweep Second 22.60 UT6497 161hL round 4.50mm Small Second 26.35 UT 6498 161/2L round 4.50mm Hunting case type, Small Second 26.35

QUARTZ ANALOG CAliBER SIZE HEIGHT FEATUR.ES PRICE ESA102.001 3o/c X 10L 3.50mm Ql:JARTZ ,4;NALdG 41.60 ESA 961.001 63,4 x 8L 3.50mm QUARTZ ANALOG 25.65 ESA 960.111 11V2L round 4.50mm QUARTZ ANALOG Sweep, Date 27.30

*Except QUARTZ ANALOG, or if otherwise indicated. 6498 Write for complete watch movement interchangeability listing and clock movement brochure.

TOLL-FREE ORDER NUMBER BOREL GROUP 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, Mo. 64106 Distribution Centers in 1-800/821-5686 GROUP CLEVELAND e KANSAS CITY e LOS ANGELES In Missouri 1-800/892-5818 NEW YORK • MIAMI • OAKLAND May 1981/Horologica/ Times 21 HE By Fred S. Burckhardt

Watch History And Appreciation

he whole thing started in 1500 in Nuremberg, Germany, had always kept perfect time. I told her not to feel bad beca:use T with Peter Henlein exclaiming, "Sun of a gun! I just mine was the same way. It never has run right since I worked invented the first mainspring.! " Now, almost five centuries, on it. She was very understanding and told me if she found millions of watches, and thousands of watchmakers later, we a good watchmaker she would let me know. look on him as the one responsible for all our troubles. If he As we all know, watches have helped us make a good came back today and saw all the timepieces we now have, living for many years. After all, what would it be like if we he would probably say, "Sun of a gun! Why did I invent that didn't have watches? For instance, think of all the bare wrists first mainspring?" and empty watch pockets that would be around. What would you tap on or hold up to your ear to see if it were ticking or After the invention of the mainspring, the first humming or making no sound at all? When would people portable timepieces soon appeared. Up until that time, every­ ever get the chance to use the expression, "My darned watch one had carried grandfather clocks around with them. These stopped!" How would you know when to feed your pet became very unwieldy, however, especially in a supermarket aardvark? What would you have to look at while you are or on an elevator. This was a great era for Boy Scouts because it gave them something to carry across streets for little old sitting in church or at some boring meeting? Thousands of ladies. customers wouldn't be able to ask, "Is my watch ready yet?" How would you know when to turn on the educational Through the years, there have been some very popular programs on your TV, like "The Gong Show" or "The Beverly watches. One of the first, the "Nuremburg Egg," was ap­ Hillbillies?" How would you like to call up the material house propriately named, as many watch manufacturers have "laid" and have nothing to say? What would you steal jewels from if quite a few since that time. During the Spring, here in Texas, there weren't any in watches? How would an apprentice watch­ we have a style that is talked about quite often. I've never maker learn the trade if there were no watches on which to seen one, but I have heard a lot about the "Tornado Watch." practice? What would we do with all of our material and There are also the "Skindiver" watches. These are very handy equipment if watches had never been invented? Think of the if you ever want to go diving for skin. great movies that wouldn't have been made, like "Watch on Some watches are made for rugged use. If you need the Rhine" and "I Was a Teen Age Watchmaker." And how to strap one to your boat propeller, or the wheel of your about that famous poet who wouldn't have a middle name­ truck, or drop one from an airplane , it is available. However, it Henry Watchworth Longfellow? is recommended that you remove the watch from your wrist You see, if you just think about if for a few minutes, before doing any of those things in order to spare yourself you will realize all the many benefits derived from people some discomfort. owning watches. On the other hand, there would be some Many people are very fussy about their watches. good come out of there not being any watches. Then all Just the other day, a customer came in complaining because the watchmakers who are always complaining about how he had just had his watch serviced and it wasn't running. I much money plumbers, carpenters, and electricians make asked him if he had requested that it run after it was cleaned. could become plumbers, carpenters, and electricians! He said no, so I told him there would be an additional charge So, Herr Henlein, wherever you are, our hats are as it wasn't included in the original estimate. He apologized off to you. Save us a good spot in that big watch repair shop for being so upset, but I told him there was no need for in the sky. In the words of a famous person, whose name I apologies-just see to it that it didn't happen again. can't recall, "I never met a watch I didn't like." One lady was unhappy because her watch hadn't Let's see now. I have an appointment at four o'clock, kept good time since I had repaired it. She said she had owned and the big hand is between seven and eight and the little hand it for twenty years and never had anything done to it since it is . . . 'i.iCIB

22 Horological Times/May 1981 Tools of the trade. You know the quality of your tools. only you, the watch specialist, can mend us as replacements. Our That's why you depend on them. offer our quality products to the batteries work for them. They can Think of Maxell watch batteries with battery replacement customer. be your tools as well. Contact the same complete trust. Maxell for the details. Count on Maxell batteries being Inside each Maxell battery is a easily available from your local uniquely effective seal that pro­ watch material distributors. After ••••••••••••••••••••• tects your customers' watches. And all, what good is a tool if you can't ••••••••••••••••••••• your reputation. There's even more put your hands on it. Rely on Maxell ••••••••••••••••••••• protection for you. We sell watch for quality. Many of the world's batteries only to the watch trade. leading quality watch manufactur­ They're labeled and packaged ers include Maxell batteries as orig­ exclusively as watch batteries. So inal equipment. And they recom- BATTERY PRODUCTS DIVISION Maxell Corporation of America, Battery Products Division, 60 Oxford Drive, Moonachie, N.J. 07074 Tel: (201) 440-8020 ''"l~tti 1981 '-ltifiTTE~ '' © By Otto Benesh, CMC

SIMPLE MEASURING DEVICES

t seems that someplace I read or heard that a watch/ to make it yourself. Notice the turned designs at the ends. I clockmaker is as good as the tools that he makes himself. Decoration was a desirable feature even if not necessary for If I did not hear or read it, then I think I just created the operation of the item. statement. However, in either case, it must be taken with a Figure 2 shows a tool that is known as a cylinder grain of salt, although it does sound rather profound. height gauge, and it was used to measure cylinders when they Perhaps in the very early days it was true. Appren­ were being repaired or replaced. It is a small tool about two tices spent time making tools that would enable them to inches in height and, like so many other tools, is no longer pursue their careers after the apprenticeship obligations had available. been met. Many of them continued making tools and equip­ Figure 3 shows a small pair of dividers that are ment the rest of their working lives. available. A recent sale catalog listed similar ones for $1.95 When you consider that, by the 18th century ,material each. They are from four to five inches in length. houses were advertising 160 or more items for the use of The first pair was modified by cutting a "V" notch watch/clockmakers, the number of individuals making all of across one of the legs as shown in Figure 4. This was done by their own equipment had greatly diminished. However, crafts­ filing or grinding one leg short to the point that there was men still made much of their specialized equipment and were sufficient room to accommodate the notch. A piercing saw extrememly talented in adapting items for a particular job. was then used to cut the notch ·centrally and acted as the As you look at the catalogs and equipment available guide for a three-cornered file which finished the notch. today, it is apparent that less and less is being made. Faced The other leg was then filed down and repainted to the new with this situation, let us see how we can adapt some easily length. obtainable tools into specialized devices for measuring. This divider is shown in use in Figure 5. It is excellent Figure 1 shows some old-time calipers that are for measuring the tooth spacing on escape wheels, as well as commonly known as pinion gauges. They are no longer avail­ on any other types of gears. The notch fits nicely on the tip able, and should you want something similar, you would have of a tooth, and it is a quick operation to check and adjust

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

Figure 4 Figure5 Figure 6

24 Horological Times/May 1981 ""l()t~ '-'~fiTTEfi"

~:/ . FiQure 7 Figure 8 FiQure 9

Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure12

Figure 13 Figure 14 Figure 15 all teeth to the same setting. It is also handy for marking the from aluminum, but any other material may be used. location of new teeth when a piece of brass has been inserted Figure 10 shows the dividers bei,ng used to check for replacement of broken teeth in a gear. the outside diameter of the gear for roundness at each tooth. Figure 6 shows another pair of dividers that have Imagine trying this with straight dividers. been altered by flattening one leg and then drilling a cone­ Another handy pair of dividers are shown in Figure shaped hole. The other leg is shortened and repainted to match 11. These are inside dividers or calipers that have had the the length of the leg with the hole. Figure 7 shows the divider outside of the tip filed or ground flat. When they have been in use. Measuring from a hole with a pivot or axle in it can be adapted to this style, they are used to measure the width difficult, but with this type of divider, you place the hole end between the faces of pallets when opening or closing them on the pivot and it is easy to make measurements from that during adjustment for lock as shown in Figure 12. point. Many times, the dividers available are too large when Figure 8 shows a pair adapted to take measurements very small measurements have to be taken. An easy way to when one leg is required to rest against a flat surface. get such a pair of dividers is to grind fine points on ruling pens It has aways been difficult to take a measurement used by draftsmen. These modified pens are shown in Figure from the center with a hole larger than the divider's leg. Figure 13, and as you can see, there is a fine pointed one and a super­ 9 shows a pair of dividers that have been modified for such a fine pointed one. The super-fine one is being used to measure task. They are of a type known as inside-out or hermaphroditic the teeth on a watch crown wheel shown in Figure 14. The dividers and are obtainable from machinists' tool suppliers. adjusting screw on the pen is very sensitive and small changes The pair pictured came from one of the largest mail order/ are easily made. retail store with retail branches in many cities around the The last items are depth gauges. These are some of country. The one leg was removed and the piece with the the easiest items to make. The idea is not original with me, cone on the end made to replace it. This new arm was made (Continued on page 53)

May 1981 /Horologica/ Times 25 REPAIRING THE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT*

PART II

By Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

his month, we continue our T discussion of the repairs required by the duplex escapement. ,...- -"' / " If the escape wheel's locking \ teeth are bent, chipped, or blunted, the safety action may be impaired and result in an un~ertain impulse I action. In this case, the escape wheel will trip prematurely or become I jammed as in Figure 1. The thinner / the safety post, the more critical is the locking action. Should one or more escape wheel locking teeth be bent, the more likely it is they will trip past the post. Teeth whose tips are dulled, worn, or shortened also will cause tripping. Bent teeth most often are neither hard nor brittle and are easily straightened with a pivot-straightening tweezer. Hold the bent tooth between the blades and at right angles to the width of the tweezer, as in Figure 2. With mild pressure and slow with­ drawing movement, the bends will become straightened. · Stretching shortened teeth can be done by peening between a flat­ faced stump held in the staking set

and a flat-faced punch of equal di­ Figure 1 ameter aligned as in Figure 3.

The shortened teeth problem Sometimes one encounters an es­ methods described in part one of capement in which the escape wheel this article. The new roller is polished has raced-tripped, shortening all or to reduce friction during the period of frictional rest of the locking teeth most of the teeth. Replacements are virtually non-existent and making one on the roller post. The slit in the new roller should be aligned with the is quite an involved undertaking. original slit in the post to insure Even so, it is still possible to use the escape wheel to effect a workable correct escapement action. (if not the most desirable) repair. It is also possible to can­ The staffs locking roller post nibalize the safety roller of a spare will have to be increased in diameter roller table from a jeweled lever watch to allow the shortened teeth to lock for use as the sleeve since it already on a thick locking roller post. This has the width and a polished surface can be done by turning a new cylin­ for the locking action, as well as a drical locking roller on the lathe, with passing hollow or crescent. Hypo­ Figure 2 a new roller-collar of an increased dermic needles also can serve as diameter, and drilling a hole in it sleeves to thicken the diameter of the Rake the teeth which will allow this roller-collar to roller post, but the slit must be pro­ The teeth of the escape wheel can slip over the roller post friction tight. vided for the passing action as in be "dressed down" by placing the A passing slit is provided by the Figure 4. wheel in the lathe. Holding an arkansas

26 Horological Times/May 1981 • Reprinted with permission of "Jewelers' Circular Keystone," July 1979 Figure 5

thick to make the new sleeve or new Jammed impulse finger locking-passing roller. When the impulse finger on the Figure 4 shows how a sleeve balance swings near this impulse tooth, which has been split to provide the it will become jammed against it. passing space can be fitted over the To grind or hone the back of the roller post. Judicious application of a locking teeth will not alter this con­ tiny amount of instant glue assures dition. Therefore, we must hone the a tight fit. front of these teeth as shown at Figure 6 shows the shortened position C. Doing so will allow this teeth and indicates why the fronts locking tooth to move forward. When of these teeth rather than the backs this tooth is adjusted to move for­ require hand honing. In Figure 6 at ward, its shorter impulse tooth will Figure 4 A a normal tooth is locked against also move forward and out of the the safety roller. Notice that its path of the moving impulse finger, stoile slip firmly in the hand under impulse finger correctly clears the yet be able to meet it during the the escape wheel, apply the slip to impulse tooth during the balance's impulsing action. the teeth while the lathe is turning free movement. Sometimes, instead of honing rapidly in the opposite direction as In position B, the shortened the fronts of these shortened teeth, shown in Figure 5 (clockwise as viewed tooth, dressed in the lathe as instructed they are bent backwards judiciously head-on). Afterwards, supply a front earlier, is locked against the enlarged as in D, Figure 6. This has the same rake to the shortened and equalized safety roller-sleeve. This allows the effect as honing the fronts and does teeth. The reasons for this will be­ tooth to lock but is now farther to the not weaken the shortened tooth come apparent as the adjustments left of the balance center. This also tips. It also allows the escape wheel for the new safety roller are explained causes the escape wheel to rest further to lock in a counterclockwise posi­ and illustrated. counterclockwise than it used to. tion relative to the balance center. Working on the escape wheel As a result, the impulsing tooth Further, it allows the impulse teeth first and observing the void between shown at the heavy arrow also is in and finger to clear each other during the new tooth-tips will tell you how a corresponding backwards position. the balance's excursions.

May 1981 /Horological Times 27 c

E \

A I /

'

Figure6

When the balance turns clock­ If the tooth, however, is better, examine Figure 7. Note the wise, the passing slot is in a favorable bent too far back, as shown in E, various clearance angles, dimensions, leverage angle to the bent tip of the then the impulse finger will miss and construction lines. Moving from locking teeth and will easily override contact with the oncoming escape left to upper right, the front of the the locked teeth in its clockwise wheel's impulse tooth. With this twin teeth clears the safety roller by non-impulsing direction. knowledge, the teeth can be bent '%o ( 45 ') while the back tooth is carefully, and the escapement will locked against the safety roller. The A slight override work again. distance from the middle of each When the same enlarged roller turns The inside counterclockwise double tooth to the impulse roller counterclockwise, as in D, the bent face of the passing hollow never is 30°. tooth tip will enter the slot in a slight actually makes contact with the locking While some escapements are rolling contact and in the override teeth tips even if bent as in positions designed with the fronts of the im­ action, will drop off, yet allow a good D and E. pulse and locking teeth as a straight contact between the impulse finger The same considerations can radial line, here a rake of 10° is and the escape wheel's impulse teeth. be applied with the double duplex assigned to the impulse and locking In this phase, the impulse tooth is escapement since it is only the escape teeth, as it allows better beginning already in a position to receive an wheel that is different. To under­ engagement with the safety and im­ escape impulse tooth. stand the double duplex escapement pulse sections of the balance.

Exeitift{JDi~eoveJty !! Unique, Old-Fashioned PIVOT CAPS We found these in a basement in Switzerland. They are old cap. These caps are perfectly true, so the pivot will always be stock made many years ago. These caps are made of steel wire, in the exact center of the staff when driven on. There is never in EXTRA SMALL, SMALL, MEDIUM & LARGE sizes. They more than one or two places where the caps cannot be used. can be fitted to most wheels for Swiss or American movements. (For complete description, see BENJAMIN ALLEN 1900 They can be used on the staff of any wheel or lever in a watch, CATALOG, Volume 1, page 264.) We have the Benjamin Allen where the staff projects far enough from the wheel to admit the Catalogs for Sale: No. 1 @ $6.00. No.2@ $6.50. Both for $10.00. Special Prices! 6 for $2.00 (of any one size) • 1 Dozen (of one size) for $3.40 ~ Assortment of 4 Dozen for ONLY $10.00 !Add $1 .oo for Shipping & Mailing) J.. Please Send $2.00 for Complete Listing of Hundreds of Antique and American Pocket Watches; lliit!:!12:-$ e Movements; Tools and Supplies. We import All Our Own Merchandise so You Save! V * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * MANFRED TRAURING -Cosmopolitan Watch Material Importing Corp. Dept. HT 581, 87 Nassau St., Suite 700-709, New York, New York 10038. Tel. (212) 227-9276

28 Horological Times/May 1981 In the center position, the common stalk. Also note that in this shape although they would work back tooth is ready to drop off the escapement, the impulse finger is equally well with straight, angled passing slot of the safety roller. The situated 53V2° from the center of the backs. impulse finger is already in a position passing slot. To supply strength to This escapement's motion is to receive an impulse from the stud­ the locking tooth tips, they are not eye-catching. Its action found such like impulse tooth. brought to a sharp point, but have a favor with the Oriental buyer that Note that the locking tips flat top of %0 (30'), as do the tips of most such watches had glass covers of the double teeth are 3° equally the impulse teeth. The backs of the over their movements to prevent distant from the center of their locking teeth have been given a curved damage from curious fingers.

Figure7 (See page 3 7)

BB-STELLA'S Perfect Unbreakable Equivalent PHC- Hunting Case Crystals for All Geneva Crystals Not Available in Glass!

Designed to be fit exactly like a glass crystal, the PHC will retain its height, and its conformation and high lustre will enhance the beauty of your closed-cover watch.

AVAILABLESIZES: 22% -26% (111.i-13Q)Ht. 7 38 - 40% ( 16 ! - 16 .!.§) Ht. 7 48 - 50% ( 19 Q.- 19 11) Ht. 5 30-33% (14 Q.· 14 .!.§) Ht. 7 44-47% (18Q.-18.1.§) Ht. 7

ASSORTMENTS: PHC-1 ...... Y.. dozen each 36 sizes ...... $108.00 PHC-2 ...... % dozen each all 70 sizes ...... $205.00 Refills ...... $12.00/dz. ORDER YOURS TODAY THROUGH YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER AMERICAN PERFITCRYSTAL CORP 653 Eleventh Ave., New York, N.Y. 10036

May 1981/Horological Times 29 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER~ 1981

By Marvin E. Whitney, CMC, CMW American Chronometer Makers Part VU

his month, we resume our unable to find any records on braically. Number 10 developed a T discussion of the careers and Mr. Heinrich as the company's losing rate during six of the twenty­ contributions of some of the records from that time are not three periods. Hence, the plus­ lesser-known American chronom­ complete. minus error resulted in a larger eter makers. Some of these in­ In early March, 1884, Mr. mean deviation of rates for number dividuals and firms were very Heinrich, whose address was listed 10. important, although they tended as 12 John Street, New York Heinrich then submitted to be overshadowed by Bond, Bliss, City, wrote the Observatory re­ his chronometers numbers 11 and and Negus. garding the selection of instru­ 12 for trial on April 27, 1887 and H. H. HEINRICH, 14 ments for the Greely Relief Exposi­ requested that number 11 be tested John Street (moving to 102 Fulton tion. On March 23, 1884, Superin­ in various positions, which the Street in 1896), New York City. tendent Franklin informed Hein­ Observatory agreed to do. By Mr. Heinrich was born in Germany rich that, although the instruments positions, he was not referring to where he also received his training for the Exposi'tion had already been the positional type of test which as a chronometer maker. During selected and placed on trial, he was a requirement for watches. his apprenticeship, he became in­ would be happy to place any of He was alluding to the polarity terested in the science of chronom­ Heinrich's chronometers on trial test of the balance, whereby the etry, an interest which he con­ the following winter and compare chronometer, in a dial-up position, tinued to pursue throughout his them with those of other American is tested with the figure 12 aligned lifetime. He was an exceptional makers, if Heinrich so desired. with each of the four cardinal chronometer maker, and upon his On December 2, 1885, points of the compass. retirement, he devoted the re­ Mr. Heinrich sent two chronom­ The Observatory notified mainder of his life to writing about eters, numbers 8 and 10, to the Heinrich on August 10, 188 7, his experiences and studies in Observatory for trial. The trial that number 12 stood 30th and chronometry. for these two instruments com­ that number 11 stood 39th out Nowhere does it tell us menced on January 1, 1886 and of a trial of 43 chronometers. when he immigrated to America. was completed July 1, 1886. The The polarity test that Heinrich However, in a letter dated February trial consisted of twenty-three requested for his number 11 was 17, 1879, Superintendent John periods during which the instru­ conducted at the conclusion of the Rodgers of the Naval Observatory ments were subjected to tem­ trial. On October 12, 188 7, the wrote Mr. Heinrich, cfo Tiffany peratures ranging from 44°F to results of the test were forwarded and Company, 15 Union Square, 90°F. Both instruments performed to him, but nowhere does the New York City, stating " ... This very well, with number 8 being the content of the test appear. morning the chronometer came in better of the two. On December 3, 1887, good order. It will be started this The largest mean daily Heinrich submitted numbers 811 evening, Greenwich Mean Time, rate for number 8 was -1.944 and 3458 for trial. You will note and will be tested as far as our seconds against a mean daily rate here that there is quite a variance facilities will permit, and a daily of + 1. 719 for number 10. How­ in his numbering sequence. Number record kept. We have, however, ever, the performance of number 3458 was fitted with a palladium no good means of applying cold 8, even though it showed a greater hairspring. Before discussing Hein­ to a chronometer without danger mean daily rate, was considered rich any further, let's digress a of injuring its works, and there­ better since it maintained a losing moment and review some of the fore, in the cold test, we will have rate throughout the entire trial, horological trends of the time to rely upon natural atmosphere." consequently, a smaller mean devia­ so we can put things in proper Naval Observatory records tion of rates. In determining perspective. do not further identify this instru­ either the temperature compensa­ Charles A. Paillard, in ment nor the outcome of the trial. tion error or mean deviation, 18 77, invented palladium, a non­ Tiffany and Company has been the computations are done alge- ferrous metal which was rust-

30 Horological Times/May 1981 THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER resistant, non-magnetic, and also magnetic character, would to some West. The rates for these four reduced acceleration. In December degree affect the rate of the chro­ periods were reduced to the mean of 1887, the Non-magnetic Watch nometer. temperature for the periods. It Company, 177-179 Broadway, New was assumed that if there were York City, sent the Observatory Thus Heinrich was hopeful no polarity of the balance, both a watch fitted with "Paillard's that, as an outgrowth of his studies means should be nearly the same. Patented Non-Magnetic Compensa­ and experiments, a means would The Observatory found tion Balance and Hairspring." In be devised to overcome the negative that if the balance of a chronometer their cover letter, they stated, effects that oxidation and mag­ were polarized, the rate obtained " ... We have received from the netism had on a chronometer. with the XII figure in one position Observatory at Geneva many bul­ In order to apprise others as to with regard to the magnetic meridian letins, Class A for our watches, what had been done in these areas, would be accelerated or retarded and the trial of marine chronom­ Heinrich, in the latter 1800's, when the XII figure was in the eters containing these inventions began writing a series of articles opposite position. and have proved their superiority for the Jeweler's Weekly. Those instruments that over all others. We are now sup­ One particular article dealt showed a marked variation in the plying LeRoy of Paris with our with the non-magnetic experiments four positions were given another balance and springs for use in conducted by Arnold and Dent. trial. This was done to make sure marine chronometers for the French Arnold and Dent noticed that that the changes were not purely Navy." when chronometers were placed so accidental. Should the changes Heinrich was not only a that the figure XII (12) was pointing appear during the second test, it superb craftsman, but he had an towards the various points of the was deemed that the changes were analytical mind and enjoyed writing compass, their rates varied. From due to the polarity of the balance. about his chronometric findings. these observations, they concluded Chronometers showing such changes He was always seeking out infor­ that these rate changes were due to were rejected. mation from the writings of other the earth's magnetism. On July 21, 1888, Allan horologists and enjoyed experi­ To prove their hypothesis, D. Brom, the Assistant Superin­ menting with new chronometric they conducted a series of experi­ tendent of the Naval Observatory, ideas. ments in which they made their wrote to Mr. Charles W. Ward of Heinrich was acquainted balances and hairsprings out of the Non-Magnetic Watch Company with the scientific investigations various non-ferrous metals. Hair­ that he had enjoyed Mr. Heinrich's of Sir William Gilbert which were springs were made of glass, gold, article in the Jeweler's Weekly published in the early 1600's. alloys of gold, copper, and silver, regarding the experiments of Arnold In Gilbert's dissertation, he not while others were made of steel and Dent. He also mentioned that only coined the term "magnetic and then gilded. These hairsprings he was enclosing the record of pole" to account for repulsion as were fitted to balances made of the Heinrich chronometer number well as attraction, but he also ex­ brass, platinum, and silver, or 3458-the only one which had a plained how and why the magnetic combinations thereof. Steel hair­ palladium spring. Brom said, "This compass was influenced by the springs were also tried with dif­ chronometer was received last Fall earth's magnetic field. ferent non-ferrous balances. They (1887) for competitive trial just Also, in the writing of even experimented with a glass closed. Its record, while better Jacques F. Houriet of Le Locle, hairspring fitted to a glass disc than at the former trial, is inferior Heinrich had read that during balance wheel. Although their ex­ to that of Heinrich number 811 William E. Parry's 1820-21 Arctic periments resulted in a partial which has a steel hairspring." expedition, the chronometers be­ solution to the polarity problem, Although number 811 was came very erratic. According to they experienced problems with fitted with a steel hairspring, it Houriet, this capricious behavior acceleration and temperature com­ was fitted with a new style of was due to the influence of the pensation. balance. Nothing more is said north's magnetic pole. As an outgrowth of the about the construction of this Later, it became known Arnold and Dent experiments and balance, so this becomes a matter that a piece of iron or steel placed those of other individuals, par­ of conjecture. However, since Hein­ in the earth's magnetic field be­ ticularly Heinrich, the Observatory rich was experimenting with various came magnetized by induction, in the early months of 1890 in­ types of balances, it, too, was no just as if it were placed in the cluded the polarity test of the doubt made of a non-magnetic field of a magnet. Thus, in a steel balance as a segment in their material. The Observatory notified ship, the magnetism induced by competitive trials. Heinrich on August 24, 1888 the earth would be diffused over After the instruments had that his number 811 was being the entire ship. completed their twelve weeks' trial purchased for $325.00. Heinrich rationalized that in the chronometer room, they Shortly after number 811 if the earth's magnetic force affected were tested for polarity of the was purchased and issued, the the compass, it would also affect balance. The chronometers were Observatory became concerned as a chronometer. Furthermore, if this tested for one week in each of the to its care and whereabouts. In a chronometer were on a steel ship, following positions: XII North, letter dated September 6, 1890, the this added dimension, i.e., the ship's XII East, XII South, and XII Observatory informed the Navy's

May 1981 /Horological Times 31 Bureau of Equipment of this concern by stating: There Is "In May 1889, Heinrich chronometer number 811 a VIGOR® was issued to the U.S.S. Constellation in order that it might Polisher-Grinder-Dust Collector have a sea test. It was not returned and was sent out again from the Naval Academy on the Constellation for this summer To Suit Your Needs cruise. "This chronometer is of peculiar construction and is the only one by this maker that has been purchased for the Navy. Its performance while on the Constellation will be of great value in determining whether the construction of this chronometer is such as to insure its usefulness as a seagoing instrument. "Mr. Heinrich has signified his desire to submit six additional chronometers of like construction for the com­ petitive trial. I have the honor to request that this chronometer, with a record ofits performance, be returned." In due time, number 811 found its way back to the Observatory, and on August 2, 1893, the Observatory shipped number 811 to the Mare Island Navy Yard for issuance to the Pacific Fleet. However, nowhere does the performance record aboard the Constellation appear in Observatory records. Nor is DOUBLE SPINDLE there any further reference to whether or not Mr. Heinrich • 1f2 HP-3450 RPM ever submitted "the six similar chronometers" as mentioned The POWERHOUSE in the Observatory's letter of September 6, 1890 to the Bureau • Measures: 331!4" x 211!4" x 103/4" of Equipment. • Complete with spindles Records show that Heinrich submitted four chro­ DC-2000 $278.00 nometers for trial on December 1, 1894, but there is no mention of their serial numbers or type of construction. The four did not fare too well, for on May 17, 1895, the Observatory notified Heinrich that the four had failed trial. Two Ways To Improve Sales

• 1f3 HP- 3450 RPM The "ECONOMY MODEL" • Measures:201f4"x 171f4"x12" • Complete with spindles DC-2025 $205.00

Fabulustre polishing cloths are a consistently popular sales item, but they give you something more . .. they make a distinctive and muc~ SINGLE appreciated goodwill gift to top otf a special purchase and bring v~ lue d cust'!mers. back I? your shop. The inner cloth is impregnated SPINDLE wtth profess1onal Jewelers rouge, and a chamois-soft outer • 113 HP- 3450 RPM cloth protects hands and buffs silver and gold jewelry, tableware anc For "LIMITED" REQUIREME decorative pieces to a bright shine. ' • Measures:153fs"x17"x101f4" The colorful counter-top display box holds one dozen Fabulustre • Complete with spindle polishing cloths, each in a plastic storage pouch, and keeps DC-1050 $159.00 them handy for customers and sales personnel. Order Fabulustre"' Polishing Cloths, No.14-830, from your B. JADOW & SONS, INC. Jeweler's Supply House. 53 W. 23 St., New York, NY 10010 Available through Jewelry/Lapidary Supply Houses A Product of GFC • P.O. Box 243MJ • Carlstadt, N.J. 07072 32 Horological Times/May 1981 On June 19, 1895, the Observatory notified Bliss, Bond, Heinrich, and Negus that after the next competitive trial, chronometers with auxiliary balances would no longer be accepted for trial. Nevertheless, a limited number of such instruments would be admitted to subsequent trials, if the makers so desired. However, the Observatory was rather explicit in stating that such submissions would only be for the information of the Department and the personal satis­ faction of the makers, and not for acceptance. There was a gentlemen's agreement that when the Observatory held a competitive trial, instruments that passed were purchased. The purchase price depended on the instrument's trial num­ ber on a scale of 0 to 25; e.g., trial numbers 0 to 5,$425.00; 5.1 to 10, $375.00; etc. The makers would be supplied with a copy of the results. The Navy was as good as its word, for on November 30, 1896, Heinrich was notified by the Naval Observatory that his chronometer number 1025 with a patented auxiliary balance, could not be admitted for competitive trial. See Figures 1, 2, and 3, page 41. Records showed that a Heinrich number 1007 was issued to the U.S.S. Yantic during August of 1891 and was returned to Heinrich on May 13, 1896 for repairs. Heinrich made a charge of $14.00 for repairing the instrument. It passed the repair trial on June 24, 1897, with a trial number of 17.199, and was issued to the U.S.S. Helena. Heinrich submitted numbers 994 and 1021 for trial which ended June 24, 1897. Number 1021 had a trial number of 25.917 and was purchased for $300.00. Number 994 failed because it had a trial number of 30.019. By this time, Mr. Heinrich was getting along in years and wished to retire so he could devote some time to writing about his chronometric experiences. He began to rely on a Mr. C. A. Geissler, a chronometer maker who had worked for him, to carry out the day-to-day operations of the business since he was busily engaged in finishing his last chronometers for competitive trial. On December 1, 1899, Mr. Heinrich submitted his last chronometers for trial. Eleven instruments were sub­ mitted, and upon completion of the trial on June 12, 1900, Mr. Geissler was notified that four of the eleven had passed and thus were purchased: one for $330.00 and the other three for $250.00 each. After retiring, Mr. Heinrich devoted the remainder of his life to writing about his experiences and studies in chronometry. Some of his writings appeared in 1901 in the British Horological Journal. (Continued on page 41)

PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE Learn Jewelry Technology/Watch Repairing Gemology for the Jeweler/Jewelry Store Operation

• State Supported • Low Tuition Rates COURSES OFFERED: • Journeymen Instructors Wa(ch Repair, Jewelry Repair, • Non-Profit Institution Stone Setting, Gemology for • No Out-Of-State Tuition Charge the Jeweler. As Certificate Courses • Quarterly Enrollment Dates • Financial Aid Available to Eligible Students Horology or Jewelery Technology • State and Federal Approved for Handicapped can lead to an Associate Degree from Paris • Single or Married Student Housing Available Junior College and/or to a Bachelors • Courses Approved for Veteran's Training Degree at several participating Universities. Write for More Information PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE Division of Horology, Jewelry, Technology, and Gemology Paris, 'fexas 7~460 CALL I Nationwide I Texas only TOLL-_FREEf 800·527·4722 800·492·4104

May 1981 /Horological Times 33 VIGOR® PRECISION TOOL KIT TK-11 0

A general selection This kit provides a of all-purpose tools small selection invaluable for of specially­ precision or mini­ chosen hand ature work projects tools in a "vest Kit contains pocket" roll­ 4 % in. chain nose, out case. Very flat nose, and side handy to have cutter pliers- 4 % around! Kit contains in. needle files - cutting broach - flat, triangular, smoothing broach -fine round - 4 in. metal hair brush - fine knife with blade - carbide scriber - fine wire trimming scissor - metal point oil applicator with 4Y, in. flat needle file with handle - 4% in. triangle cover - cutting broach - fine dusting brush - fine point needle file with handle- pegwood probing sticks- double tweezer - carbide marking scriber - 6 in. steel rule - fine end pin vise -metal screwdriver, fine blade - fine point point all-metal screwdriver - brass head mallet with metal probing tweezer- fine point probing tweezer, self-locking handle- double end pin vise, adjustable - tube of Aron Alpha - sharpening stone - complete in plastic "roll up" case. "45 second cement " -applicator with micro lubricant grease - pegwood probing sticks - spare part tubes approx. 6 in . long (4 pieces) -complete in leather zipper case. $79.95 $27.00

The MATT-GUN provides a new technique for mo­ deling jewelry and mini­ sculpture with the extru­ sion of hard wax. Ex­ cellent for the model­ maker, sculptor, hobbyist. MATT-GUN is actually a miniature wax extruder which transforms hard wax pellets into "wire" of different shapes and thick­ nesses . A self-contained kit supplies the gun. With it are all the accessories necessary for the gun and for original designs and model-making. As important as the gun is the generously-illustrated 1 06-page hard-cover book, WAX MODELING FOR JEWELRY AND SCULPTURE, by Adolfo Mattiello. It provides full instruc­ STANDARD KIT for Jewelers and Hobbyists tion on the extruding technique, and tells how to get the contains MATT-GUN with 2 brass tips, 3 styles most out of the MATT-GUN. It takes the reader through of wax "to get started," supply box, and actual modeling projects, shows examples of famous designer's complete 1 06-page book. creations, and provides invaluable compilation of sources of supplies, information and education.

Quick cred1t to accounts well-rated by Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade fF1ARSHALL-$>WARTCHILD TOLL-FREE PHONE ORDERS (except-sorry!-Aiaska and Name ------Hawaii) -9-4 CD T. WEEKDAYS 2040 Milwaukee Ave .. Chicago. IL 60647-312/278-2300 I LLI NOIS,-800/ 972-3776 Firm ______109 North Akard St., Dallas, TX 75201 - 214/741-1454 OTHER STATES: 800/ 621-4767 OR MAIL ORDER TO P 0 . BOX 1212 Main St., Houston, TX 77001-713/759-9009 726. CHICAGO. IL 60690 Address 657 Mission St.. San Francisco. CA94105 -415/421-2153

City/State/Zip ------1425 Fourth Ave .. Seattle. WA 98101 - 206/682-6158

34 Horological Times/May 1981 .fflARSHALL- ~WARTCHILD MEANS ffloNEY ~AVED SPECIAL VALUES FOR EVERYDAY NEEDS

SAVE $20-REG. $62.50 NOW $42.50 POSTURE/COMFORT BENCH CHAIR

MS-200 VIGOR HOBBY BENCH Precision Work Center Overall attractive wood­ No stress, no strain: full-size, AMERICAN-MADE grain finish. 25% in. wide fully-cushioned seat; height adjust­ COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED x 16% in. deep x 36Y2 in. able 17 in. to 20 in.; spring-action high. Shipped flat-easy padded back rest; complete 360° 39 in. high, 39 in. wide, 19% in. deep. 38% to assemble. $68.50 swivel; removable rest arms ... in. height to working surface. 19Y2 in. x smooth-rolling ball-bearing casters. 38 in. work surface. % in. trim. 32 in. leg room. Walnut finish. (Prices and specifica­ tions subject to change.) Regularly $415- SPECIAL $260.00

The KAGAN RING SIZER Stretches your inventory - enlarges Need high temperature in and reduces wedding bands quickly, tight places? easily, accurately. Since 194 7 a time­ Little Torch is so tiny it can throw a saver, money-maker, for thousands VIGOR 6300° F flame through the eye of a of jewelers. CLEAN N' BRITE ULTRASONIC needle! It solders, brazes, welds, heats Clear and simple instructions with with exacting precision in the smallest each machine. Easily operated by any 4% in. x 5% in. x 5 in. unit places. Uses oxygen and acetylene, pro­ comes complete with 3 clerk. Will pay for itself many times pane, natural gas or Mapp. 5 tips-large types of cleaning powder, over. enough to weld 16-ga. steel; small enough While present supply lasts, still at and cover. to weld .002 in. copper wire. Ask for free $289.00 CL 1755-$59.95 brochure. $86.00

Quick credit to accounts well-rated by Dun & Bradstreet or Jewelers Board of Trade TOLL-FREE PHONE ORDERS .fflARSHALL-~WARTCHILD (except-sorry!-Aiaska and Name ------Hawad)-9-4 CD T WEEKDAYS. I LLINOIS.-800/972-3776 2040 Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, IL 60647-312/278-2300 OTHER STATES: 800/621-4767 109 North Akard, Dallas, TX 75201-214/741-1454 Firm ------OR MAIL ORDER TO P 0 BOX 1212 Main St., Houston, TX 77001-713/759-9009 726. CHICAGO. IL 60690 Address ------657 Mission St., San Francisco, CA 94105- 415/421-2153 1425 Fourth Ave., Seattle, WA 98101 - 206/682-6158 City/State/Zip ------

May 1981/Horological Times 35 More WMJDA NEWS

WMJDA officers joined the Board of Directors for the picture above. (Front row, left to right) Officers Dominic Priore, Karl The Man-of-the-Year luncheon honored William J. Kilb of the Esslinger (newly elected President) and Dottie Keech, Director. Kilb Company, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Here he is, seated, far (Second row, left to right) Edward Soergel, treasurer; John right. Seated, left to right, are Robert Kilb who introduced his Cassedy, outgoing President; Directors Sheppard Fargotstein; father, Mrs. Kilb, and the honoree. Standing are Marilyn and Michael Perkins and Roger Borel. (Back row, left to right) John Cassedy. Robert Mahar, Third Vice-president'; Directors Ken Weil, Denis Gaber, J. Goldman, and Charles Britton. Not shown are Direc­ tors Morris Beresh, John Frei, Sr., Norma Nest and Shimon Perlmutter. JEWELMONT

Individual conferences in which Active WMJOA members dis­ cussed areas of common interest with representatives of As­ sociate Member companies, were the featured activities on Friday during the La Costa meeting. William Cureton, in the striped sweater, chatted with visitors at the Newall Mfg. table.

Ge1n City College . . The School with Time For You Choose courses in watch and/or clock repairing, engraving, jew­ elry-diamond setting or jewelry store management. For watch material, tools and supplies Great Career Opportunities Be A Professional Call Toll Free Work Anywhere Craftsman New classes begin every Monday throughout the year. (AREA CODE 61 2) 546-3800 Placement service for graduates. JEWELMONT®~ • MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 CORPORAnQN • _I Write for Free Bulletin NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 GEM CITY COLLEGE KANSAS CITY SCfiOOL 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH SCHOOL OF HOROLOGY OF WATCHMAKING MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 55427 Quincy, Illinois 62301 4528 Main SLreet (217) 222-0391 1\.an~as Cily, Missouri 64111 (816) 931-5522

36 Horological Times/May 1981 .... /

Figure 4 (March 1981)

Try Us For ... HARD TO GET WATCH PARTS Large Inventory • Fast Service Appropriately Priced

Figure 5 (March 1981) Call Toll Free 800-525-3715 THE DUPLEX ESCAPEMENT In Colorado Only: 800-332-3843 (Continued from page 29) For the sake of clarity, we here reproduce Figures 4 and 5 from the first article in this series on the duplex escapement VICKSMAN JEWELERS, Inc. (March 1981, pages 50 and 51). Figure 4 shows the "Chinese Duplex" escapement in an isometric view. Figure 5 shows P.O. Box 8226 Denver, CO 80201 the sequential action of this escapement. w:::::II3

Genuine ''0" Ring Waterproof Crowns

NO.7 GENUINE '0' RING WATERPROOF CROWNS SIZES FOR EVERY POPULAR SWISS & AMERICAN WATCH o PRECISION DIAMETERS & OPENINGS o YGF & S. STEEL o NEW MODERN FEWER KNURLS FOR EASY WINDING o PRESSURE TESTED tom tOLOB CIIUtlfTU TAP .-C'PHUNa i VOn 1 BOffi£ CO\,Q DrA.MElER ,. OPEifiNG PfiST 1 Fl\J'!.II 511MM 10 .,., ~ UMM 1~ Z.OMM VGF 4.0 MM i I i 2.0MM FLUSH 14 STEEL 50 MM U MU l.U$H " IISTE" lli .. ' YGF 4.0 MM 111 2.5 MM FLUSH 15 I ST EE L SOMM 10' "' U""'" ' VGF 4.0 MU 1 f 2.5 MM FLUSH 1& STEEL 50MM . I 5 STEEL 4.0 MM II 1.0 MM FLUSH 11 YG F 56MM 10' 2.0 MM n.us.w STEEL 4.0 MM FLUSU 51 MM 2.0 MM F'LUS~f •I STEEL 4.0 MM FLUSH " "YGF' 56MM 10' 2.5 MM nu5-H STEEL t.O MM ,:I~ 2.5MM~~ ~~ FLUSH 20 !& MM ::::2.5 MM rUSM " ' 111 MM 10 UMM FLU S , "'STEEL 51i MM 10• 2.0 Milt rt.US.M 10' 'YGF" 5.0 MM t l.O MM FLUSH STEEL S&MM • 211 MM USN .,, YCF 5. 0 MM 13 2.ml')5 •• FLUS " STtEL U MM 10 II'm 1'1'1•'1!1• L~' " llml• ..!!!!! m~'.: ~nti'm'"'" 48 CROWNS REFILLS AVAILABLE

Genuine "0" ring waterproof crowns are pressure air tested marine conditions with ,perfect perfoQDance . . . Now to a depth of 180 feet ••• The genuine "0" ring gasket is available with the new modern flat top and fewer knuxl.s made of a special composition with a fine microscopically for better gripping and easier winding .•• Every popular smooth surface to provide easy friction free winding . • • diameter ftom 4.0MM to S.6MM with openings lor2.0MM Movement from the winding to the setting position re­ and 2.5MM ... Flush and medium posts ... Taps 10 and quires no more effort than an ordinary crown. Gasket will 8 •.. Same price for gold filled and stainless steel. Made not become brittle or crack and is unconditionally guaran­ by the world's largest Swiss factory supplying major teed for years of service under every atmospheric condi­ watch factories everywhere. Distribution worldwide. tion ..• Tried and tested by astronauts and under sub- AS AN INTRODUCTORY SPECIAL WITH THE PURCHASE OF FREE OFFER ! ! ! THE NO. 7 OR NO.8 WATERPROOF CROWN ASSORTMENT, WE WILL INCLUDE THREE (3) DOZEN STEM EXTENDERS TAP 10. ORDER BOTH ASSORT­ MENTS AND RECEIVE SIX DOZEN EXTENDERS. VALUE 3 DOZEN •...••$13.50 VALUE 6 DOZEN ...... $27.00 THE "FREE OFFER" IS AN INTRODUCTORY OFFER FOR A LIMITED TIME. WE RESERVE $28?.~ THE RIGHT TO WITHDRAW THE OFFER AT ANY TIME WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE.

Distributed Through Jobbers Only by ACRON CORP. 8205 NW 35 ST. CORAL SPRINGS, FLORIDA, 33065

May 1981/Horological Times 37 By Joseph Rugole, CMW

BIMETALLIC TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENTS

ractical adjustments to temperature on bimetallic closer to the cut. The procedure of running the watch in the P balance wheels are now seldom performed. Most of the refrigerator and in the heating chamber is repeated until the acijustments are done on fine marine chronometers for which two rates are equalized. When the differences in rates become it is essential. It is necessary to know the procedure so that smaller, the screws are moved only a short distance from we can avoid possible errors in manipulating the bimetallic where they were located originally. In this way, the adjust­ balance wheels of some very fine watches that may still be ments can be made more precise. found in repair shops. Although it is not very likely that many watchmakers As stated before, the principle of adjustment is the today would bother with temperature adjustments, it is well automatic change in the radius of gyration of the balance to worth the while to remember these simple rules for other compensate for change in elasticity of the hairspring caused situations. Quite often we are required to make repairs on by variations in temperature. The mathematical solution of watches with bimetallic balances, and among other repairs, the problem seems very impressive on paper, but unfortunately, we often have to replace the balance staff. When poising the it does not work as precisely as we would like. To achieve balance wheel, we must keep in mind the sensitivity of the good rates, we are forced to use the good old trial and error balance to the temperature variations. Two situations are method of adjustment. To begin with, we know that the particularly important. The truing of the balance wheel balance rim moves toward and away from the center quite must be nearly perfect at room temperature. It is also neces­ uniformly. Because one end of the rim is cut and the other sary that toward the end of the truing process, we avoid is attached to the balance arm, the free end of the rim always touching the balance wheel with the fingers because this may moves more. If we were to use a bimetallic balance without raise its temperature to the body temperature in which case the screws, there would be some compensation, but we would the rim would curve inwards, giving us the wrong idea that it have no way of increasing or decreasing it as necessary. With needed further truing. the mass screws on the balance wheel, we have the oppor­ The placing of the timing washers is also very impor­ tunity to achieve the compensation as desired. How it works tant. They should never be placed near the cut. In fact, the can easily be seen by a simple experiment. If we were to use a conscientious watchmakers would place them only up to bimetallic balance wheel and heat it over an alcohol lamp, half way between the balance arms and the cut, and the closer the free end would move toward the center of the staff de­ Figure 1. Compensation Balance (drawing compliments of cidedly, and when cooled, it would move in the opposite George Brown College) direction. It is easy to see that if the screws were grouped at the end of the rim, more mass would be moved toward the center; therefore making the radius of gyration smaller. If the screws were grouped near the arm, a smaller amount of mass would move toward and away from the center, making the average radius of gyration larger. This would result in slower rate at higher temperature than in the former case. Brass '- ; / The balance wheel is made in such a way that there are always ~//". Steel a number of empty screw holes, so that the pairs of screws can be moved from the arm to the cut and vice versa. See Figure 1. The practical adjustment consists of placing the l' watch in the refrigerator for 24 hours at a temperature of 45°F and recording the rate against a reliable timekeeper. The next day, the watch is wound and set to exact time and Effect of Cold placed in a heating chamber to run at approximately 90°F. The rate is again recorded and compared to the rate at the low temperature. If the watch is faster at 45°F than at 90°F, it is undercompensated. To improve the rates, it is necessary Mean Time Screws to move one pair of opposite screws near the balance arm

38 Horological Times/May 1981 to the balance arm, the better. The screws on the half of the wheel is made of beryllium alloy which possesses excellent rim toward the cut should also be left unmutiliated by drilling, qualities. Redish in color, it is very hard (415 brinell) and filing, and undercutting. Any removal or addition of the mass difficult to bend or mutilate. When a good quality alloy on that half of the balance rim will immediately change the hairspring is used with it, it has a small temperature error of adjustment to temperature. not more than 2 sec./24hr. between the high and low tem­ The middle temperature error has been an almost perature range. The middle temperature error is usually continuous challenge for the best horologists. The best solu­ between± 0 and ±.5 sec./24hr. tion to the problem, however, was discovered by a metallurgist, There are mainly two types of compensation used. Dr. C. E. Guillaume. He found that certain alloys of iron and The one introduced by P. Dietisheim is mainly the adaptation nickel do not have an expansion factor directly proportional of a bimetallic balance strip to an alloy balance. Figure 2 to the temperature. When the steel portion of the bimetallic illustrates how the compensation is achieved. The balance rim was replaced with invar alloy, the middle temperature wheel is flied or milled away near the arms to provide room error was considerably reduced. Further experiments proved for curving of the bimetallic strip which is screwed to the that for best results the rim should be cut somewhat further balance wheel. The screws fitted to the bimetallic strip pro­ away from the arm than the ordinary bimetallic balance. This vide the means for adjustment to temperature. Moving the became the distinctive feature of the Guillaume's balance. For screws toward the free end of the strip will speed up the rate marine chronometers, the rim is usually cut at the center in higher temperatures and vice versa. between the two arms, and four weights are used instead of the usual two. When properly constructed, it does away with The second type of compensation was developed the auxiliary compensation because the middle temperature by Valet. He reasoned that if an alloy balance wheel which error is so small that it is not necessary to reduce it any does not expand or contract were made with an arm of a further. metal which does, the balance wheel so constructed would The same types of alloys of nickel and steel with become oval in high and in low temperatures. If a few screws small additions of tungsten, chromium, or beryllium are now were fitted at right angles to the balance arm, they too would used for making hairsprings which do not change their elasticity move closer to the center of rotation in higher temperatures, greatly within the normal range of temperatures. Total com­ making the radius of gyration smaller and vice versa. Figure 3 pensation, however, is not quite possible with alloy hair­ illustrates such a balance wheel. Although the change in rate springs alone. A method for compensation must be used if is very small, it is sufficient to compensate for the small better results are expected. For the ordinary watches, i.e., temperature error that exists when alloy balance wheels and all but chronometer quality, the compenstion is not used alloy hairsprings are used. because the errors are small enough to be neglected. For fine Some other methods of compensation were proposed quality chronometer watches, there are a number of different by various horologists, but most of them are too impractical to ways that it can be achieved. Normally, a good quality balance be used on a large scale. ) n " ~

Figure 2. P. Dietisheim's monometallic balance with bimetallic Figure 3. Valet's oval ising balance wheel. strips.

Path of distortion

May 1981 /Horological Times 39 AWl News/ Milton C. Stevens

An Open Letter To AWl

ast June, the Trustees of AWl's and highly recommend it to anyone regularly lectured on such topics as LEducational Library & Museum Trust searching for structured training in important horological achievements, the (ELM Trust) selected Dean H. Armentrout this field. Secondly, I wish to illustrate development and application of the pen­ to receive assistance from the J. E. the degree to which the students are dulum, the history of the Clockmakers' Coleman Fund and the ELM Trust exposed to antiquarian horology. Company, and the lives of the master Fund. Mr. Armentrout was judged to West Dean College is an indepen­ craftsmen. be a highly motivated young horologist dent college for the Crafts, administered We also make a variety of field with unique abilities. For this reason, by the Edward James Foundation. The trips, visiting such places as the British the selection committee agreed to help College is intended as a center to foster Museum, the Science and Maritime him attend West Dean College in West and teach a wide range of traditional Museums, the Clerkenwell district of Sussex, England. This College offers arts and crafts. Professional courses are London, and various workshops of highly specialized training in antiquarian held in the conservation and restoration established restorers. horology. Students do complete restora­ of antique furniture, clocks, and por­ West Dean clock course is tions on clocks which date from between celain. The courses are held in con­ supervised by a committee of eminent 1650 and 1850. junction with the British Antique Dealers' horologists who are intimately involved During his studies at West Dean Association, and the West Dean/BADA in the progress and assessment of in­ College, Mr. Armentrout has completed Diploma will be awarded upon successful dividual students. a number of important restorations. completion of the course. The duration The facilities available to students Achievement reports from the College of the professional courses is three should also be mentioned. The main indicate that Mr. Armentrout has proved twelve-week terms. workshop is equipped with two "Myford" to be an outstanding student. We are now The Antique Clock Restoration lathes and twelve benches, each with concerning ourselves with finding proper Course is unique in that, with the ex­ a clockmakers' lathe. In addition, there placement for Dean Armentrout when his ception of exercises in bushing and are two gear cutting engines and a full training at West Dean is completed in the repivoting, all practical work is actual complement of associated machinery, Fall of 1981. It is essential that we find restoration of clocks dating from between drill press, grinder, etc. Besides the main placement in an environment that will 1650 and 1850. workshop, there is a second workshop best utilize this young horologist's From a personal viewpoint, the which accommodates cleaning equipment special talents. We would welcome single most important concept stressed and a finishing workshop which allows inquiries and suggestions as to where to the students is the need for the highest clocks to be assembled and adjusted in Dean Armentrout's training could best standards of skill and workmanship. clean conditions. be utilized when he returns to the United This point cannot be overstated. The This has been a general over­ States. philosophy of conservation and restora­ view concerning the clock restoration Dean's enthusiasm for his chosen tion of antique clocks at West Dean is course at West Dean. I am involved cur­ profession and the training he is receiving multi-faceted and space doesn't permit rently in restoring a mid-18th century at West Dean College have prompted me to delve too deeply into it. Let it Dutch musical bracket clock which I him to write the following open letter be said, however, that the objective of hope to cover in a separate letter. to the A WI membership: the course is to produce competent, I feel strongly that the late confident, and commercially employable Jesse Coleman would be highly satisfied craftsmen who parenthetically have been with the level of practical ability and Last summer, I had the good impressed by the need for honest and sophisticated knowledge of horology that fortune and honor of being selected aesthetically correct restorations. the average student achieves after a year the first recipient of the J. E. Coleman In my course, we have been at West Dean. Memorial Fund Award. The financial exposed to and methodically trained assistance allowed me to join the 1980/81 in such areas as tools of the trade, heat Antique Clock Restoration Course held treatment of metals, design of horological Further information about this by West Dean College, near Chichester, gearing, gear and pinion cutting, and course at West Dean College can be West Sussex, England. horological calculations-to name but a obtained from: The Principal, West My purpose in writing this few. Dean College, West Dean, Chichester, letter is twofold. Firstly, I want to draw The historical aspect of our West Sussex, P018 OQZ ENGLAND. attention to the clock restoration course education is not overlooked, and we are 'ilD13

40 Horological Times/May 1981 Figure 1. Dial view of H.H. Heinrich, No. Figure 2. Movement view of H.H. Heinrich Figure 3. Close-up view of Heinrich's 1025. (Photos courtesy of Henry B. Fried.) No. 1025 chronometer. patented balance fitted to No. 1025.

THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER a Hewitt and Son in London, founded was not unusual to find fifty or more (Continued from page 33) by Thomas W. Hewitt (1799-1867). chronometers in his care. Thomas was a master of his trade and the KLINE, SAMMOS AND COM­ My records show that during instruments that I have seen carrying PANY, KLINE AND COMPANY, KLINE his years as a chronometer manufacturer, the Hewitt and Son name were also AND DILLON, Chronometer Makers, Mr. Heinrich submitted thirty-four chro­ signed, "Maker to the Admiralty." New York City. Kline, Sammos and nometers to the Naval Observatory for Thus it is quite possible that the New Company was formed in 1853, consisting competitive trial. I am certain that he York firm of Hewitt and Son could of three members, two of whom were made a greater number than that, as he very well have been a branch of the former employees of Bliss and Creighton­ also sold and repaired instruments for London firm, or it could have been an Calvin Kline, a machinist, and Thomas other segments of the maritime service. enterprising nautical chandler capitalizing E. Dillon, a brass turner who made All of the Heinrich instruments that I on the Hewitt name, since both firms chronometer boxes. Mr. Sammos, the have examined have had Mercer move­ were in business during the same period third member of the partnership, pro­ ments which were sprung and finished of time. vided the financial backing. by him. HOLZWORTH, GEORGE, 77 The business got its start at 20 HEWITT AND SON, 180 Water Summer Street, Kingston, Massachusetts. Fulton Street, but remained there for Street, New York City. The firm of Mr. Holzworth was a contributing writer just a short time before moving to 74 Hewitt and Son is listed in several of the to Samuel Levin's magazine Horology Water Street. Mr. Sammos soon realized early 1850's New York Business Direc­ in the early 1900's. When he was working that his investment was not a wise one; tories as chronometer makers. Little at the bench, he serviced and repaired the partners began feuding and Mr. else is known about this firm. There was chronometers. I have been told that it (Continued on page 61)

The Aqua Torch The L&R Aqua Torch is particularly well suited where a high degree of cleanliness and flame control are required. The Aqua Torch is ideal for soldering, brazing, welding, annealing, flame polishing, and thermal plastic material fabrication. The Aqua Torch uses distilled water as its basic fuel. The gas that is produced instantly is not stored in any form. There is no pressurized storage in the Aqua Torch resulting in a safe system. The L&R Aqua Torch comes in a variety of models, each model with various torch tips. If your goal is a high-temperature, clean flame, the L&R Aqua Torch is the tool you should be using. It's new from the people who have a long history of supplying quality products to make your work easier. Model shown SUPER A YOUNG- NEAL COMPANY, Inc. Watch Material, Tools and Jewelers Supplies 807-19 J.C. Bradford Bldg., 170 Fourth Avenue, North, Nashville, Tennessee 37219. W.A.T.S.- TN- 800-342-8296, AL, AR, KY, MS, MO, GA, NC, VA- 800-251-8580 Local - (615) 254-0669

May 1981/Horological Times 41 SALES TALK

By Wes Door, CMW

Clerk Or Salesperson?

efore explaining the difference between a clerk and a What is a salesperson? A salesperson is a person who Bsalesperson, I would like to preface my sales talk with a sells. It's that simple. He or she is not just a guard. I would few explanations. First, I am not a "super salesman" but just rather be a salesperson, wouldn't you? a person like yourself who has a job of repairing and selling. It is important to have people suggest methods and The ideas which I present are an accumulation of what I have dialogue to use in selling, but you and only you are the one read, seen, and experienced, much like the ideas which you to decide which methods and words really fit you. Some­ have acquired over the years; I just happen to be the one times, we can rightfully resent what others say about how we putting this material together each month. sell. I remember that my friend Scotty-one of the best This reminds me of the time I was selling a watch salesmen I have ever known-used to say if he received just to a customer, and someone else came in. I glanced up and one new idea from each of his many books on salesmanship, recognized him to be a friend whom I had not seen for quite it would be worth many times the price of the book. Scotty some time. I completed my watch sale, and my customer was a real salesperson, and not just a clerk. left. My friend approached the showcase, we shook hands, What is the difference between a clerk and a sales­ and I asked him where he had been the last several years. He person? A clerk is a person who guards merchandise. If the said that he had graduated from college and then gone on to customer asks to see it, the clerk unlocks the showcase, very study to be an insurance salesman. I got the impression that carefully shows the merchandise, and then puts the mer­ he felt he had learned all there was to know about salesman­ chandise back and locks the showcase. Oh, yes. And if the ship. My suspicions were confirmed when he said, "Before customer says, "I'll take that one," the clerk wraps it up, we get started talking about why I came in today, I would takes the customer's money, and says thank you. like to tell you what you did wrong in that watch sale." I

Every sale demands the best of the true salesperson-especially selling a diamond to one's own daughter and future son-in-law.

42 Horological Times/May 1981 Swiss Quality guess I looked up with a slight amount of resentment, but he continued, telling me that after I had sold the watch, I Watch Movements should have reviewed the features of the watch with my customer, telling about the 17 jewels, the water-resistant An Efficient and Economical Way to Handle your case, the sweep second hand, etc. I commented that my selling Watch Repairs and Reduce Comebacks-Time method must not have been too bad, as I had made the sale. Saved is Mone~,. Saved-To Stores and Watch­ Incidentally, he wanted me to buy insurance, and you makers Alike. can guess how much I bought. Now, if he had approached me in a less forceful manner, maybe I would have listened better. For instance, New Rep.lacement Movements he could have said, "Wes, I've known you for a long time, and since I've just completed a salesmanship course, I would like to make a suggestion. This idea works in the insurance business and maybe it would apply to the jewelry business as well." With that introduction, maybe he, too, would have made a sale. I think sometimes we are not our best as salespeople because we equate this with high pressure salesmanship. We AS 1977-5 FF 59-21 FHF 69N have caught ourselves saying, "I'm not a salesman, I'm a (Replaces AS 1012) (Replaces FF 60) watchmaker. I don't need to sell, and I don't want to sell. I've certainly had my share of those high pressure salesmen, Quantity Caliber Size Features Cost and I don't want to be like them." ---r.AS 1977-5 51hx6% 17 Jwl lncabloc 22.50 Salesmanship is not pressure selling, at least it should FF 59-21 3%x10 17 Jwllncabloc 25.00 not be. I talked once to a jewelry salesman who does not FHF 69N 6%x8 17 Jw·l lncabloc 16.00 consider himself to be a pressure salesman. In his words, ETA 2412 6% Round 17 Jwl lncabloc 24.00 "I take a sincere insterest in serving my customers. When I walk into a store, I don't even think of the money I'm going to make if I make the sale. I concentrate on how I can best Electronic & Quartz help my customer and let my rewards look after themselves. New Factory Fresh Also, you must be honest with your customers, or you will not last." To explain selling with and without pressure, let's Quantity Caliber Size Features Cost use this example. Suppose you are showing two watches, an ESA 9154 12 1;1L Date Electronic 31.50 expensive one and a lower-priced one. You have explained ESA 9157 13L Date Electronic 26.50 all of the features and benefits of the finer watch, but the ESA 9158 13L Day Date Electronic 29.00 customer still decides to buy the lower-priced one. Now, ESA 9183 13L Dav Date Ouartz Analoo 48.50 anything said from this point forward in an attempt to con­ ESA 9200 63;4X8 63/4x8 Electronic 33.50 vince the customer to change his or her mind would be high pressure selling. Remember, you've had your chance. NEW MODELS ESA-ETA 977.001 Opus Quartz. The same Case On the other hand, if your customer buys the lower­ Dimensions as the Original CAL AS 1977-2-5'12 LIGNE. priced watch because you did not take the opportunity to Uses same Hands, Case - Only $25.00 Each. explain the benefits of the better watch, then you are doing ESA-FF 961.001 Quartz- To Replace FF60 Movements­ your customer a disservice by underselling. For example, ( Dial Feet Must Be Slightly Shortened) - $23.50. suppose this customer should come in later and say, "What's SPECIFY QUANTITY that watch in your showcase? It looks thinner and nicer than the one you sold me last week." When you explain that it PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE is nicer, but it costs fifty dollars more, the customer replies, ' "Just fifty dollars more? I would rather have had it, and I could easily afford the difference." You see, everyone loses when we undersell. We lose Name ______money, and the customer is unhappy that he or she was type­ Address ______cast and undersold. City ______..,~ltate ____.L.Zip ______Next month, we will slip in a few interesting facts

about brides, so until then, remember we are salespersons. P.O. BOX 43561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164 Esslinger & CD. Toll Free-Orders Only 800-328-{)205 ~--- Inquiries-Information 612-452-7180 Buy now, Wes ......

May 1981 /Horological Times 43 Scholastically Speaking/George Schlehr A Tall Case For Clock Repair Training

uring a recent pleasure trip through Interest in collecting antique Dthe scenic Ozarks of Arkansas, I clocks has mushroomed in the last few came upon a small town in the hinter­ years. The National Association of Watch lands with a population of less than and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) boasts l ,000 souls. There was a watch and 33,329 members, most of whom desire clock repair shop in town, a one-man more than just a little instruction in the operation located on one of the few care and feeding of their own collectibles. side streets. As a friendly gesture, I In our area, we prepare technical presen­ stopped in to say hello to a fellow crafts­ tations for NAWCC chapter meetings, man and was almost shanghaied by the and these short, practical demonstra­ harassed owner. At first he thought I tions have been most enthusiastically was considering settling in the area and received. These people are starving for was overjoyed at the thought that some­ competent instruction in clock repair. one had finally come to relieve him of a George Schlehr Some schools operate days, mountainous backlog of repair work, There is not just a scarcity of competent nights, and weekends, the year around, mostly clocks. His bench had barely the mechanics in this field; we are fast and the demand for training is still not well-known "144" of J. E. Coleman. approaching an absence thereof. completely satisfied. The excellent courses He pleaded with me to send him some­ In the United States and Canada offered by A WI in clock repair and clock body, anybody, to help him out. Small there are some 40-odd schools of horology restoration, along with the courses comfort that it was, I told him, in effect, (the number is odd, not the schools), offered in clock making techniques by that he was just another statistic in the sparsely distributed among only 26 a few outstanding schools, are still not declining number of practicing horologists. states and the province of Ontario. That enough. In 1970 there were an estimated leaves 22 of the neighboring states devoid The ideal institutions to success­ 22,000 active watchmakers in the United of horological training. About one-third fully undertake programs in clock repair States, with an average age of 58 years. of these institutions offer some instruc­ are the community/junior colleges and In 1980, this number had dropp~d to tion in clock repair, with only a handful the vocational/technical high schools. only 16,000 repairmen behind the bench, having clock repair curriculums of any Surely in such progressive states as still averaging 58 years in age. Fortunately, repute. Connecticut, Delaware, Indiana, Mary­ approximately 7,500 of these persons Small wonder that those repair­ land, Oregon, Utah, Vermont, and others are members of A WI who know what men still in business are extracting higher­ too numerous to mention but not to be they are doing. By simple arithmetic, than-average charges from the public slighted, there are educators aware of the this means that there is one repairman for their repair work. Some have ad­ need for horology departments in their for every 15,000 people in our country. mitted to me that they have escalated secondary and post-secondary school No wonder our Razorback friend is prices deliberately in the hopes that the systems. tearing his hair out. customer will be discouraged. No such The impetus should come from As if this lopsided ratio of watch luck, they report; the work "just keeps local guilds and state watchmakers repairmen were not enough, the pro­ a comin'." A poll of six repair shops in associations as they petition the ap­ portion of clock repairmen to the general my city revealed that they are all turning propriate education agency to appoint an population is even more ridiculous. down more work than they take in. investigative task force.

44 Horological Times/May 1981 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE (Continued from page 4) published, are expected to aid our financial picture during Time for the Best in Time ... this coming fiscal year. These include The Essence of Clock Repair, a 54-chapter book by Sean C. (Pat) Monk. This book I BATTERY OPERATED is currently being typeset and should be available by mid­ I KIENZLE QUARTZ ACCURATE June. It will sell for $19.95. Due soon after Pat Monk's book will be Watch & Gock Information Please! featuring the writings of the Dean of American Watchmakers, W. H. Samelius, CLOCK MOVEMENTS as compiled by Orville R. Hagans. This classic volume will For Wall, Mantle and Desk Clocks retail for $30.00. AWl is currently accepting advance orders .(no checks at this time, please) for this book; the first 500 KIENZLE copies will be serially numbered and autographed and will become collectors' items. Presently in the editing stage is a CHRONOQUARTZ comprehensive book on Automatic Watches by Henry B. Accurate self-starting movement operates Fried. We expect this book to be off the press before 1982. on a single ··c" battery. 4.194,300 vibra­ Another book waiting in the wings is Marine Chronometers tions per second. Has metal sweep hand. backhand setting. removable metal hanger. by Marvin E. Whitney. Furnished with all fit1ings, incl uding rub­ It is the hope of your Directors that these additional ber washer, metal washer. brass centeriix revenue-producing projects, combined with prudent manage­ nut or hex nut and brass minute hand nut. Has standard Ameri­ can shaft available in '12''. s.~·. ~~. · and 1/a" lengths. Avai lable also ment and restructuring of some of our costly educational as 24 hour movement; as dayfdate movement with 511s" day/ programs, will help us to effectively cope with the ever­ date disk; also with bell on top. one strike on the hour, no sweep, 3/4" shaft. Size of movements: 23/a"' x 2.5/s"' x 111s". Ask present realities of inflation. for mini-quartz 2" x 2 1 /8" and high torque movements. Another subject equally as important as finances to the success of AWl is that of committee membership. Complete Fit-Up Movements Next month will be annual meeting time again; along with Ready-to-insert round movements. this comes the naming of committee members who will carry 23/s" movement diameter and 15Js" out many of our policies for the coming year. I invite any deep, complete with brass bezel, brass dial. hands and glass crystal . member who has an interest in serving on a particular com­ Available in 3", 33/s" mittee to convey this information to me at AWI Central and 4" dial diame­ as soon as possible. lfl.:=r.ts ters. Movements only, 2 3/s" diam­ eter, 15Js" deep, available with 7/,s" and 5's" shafts.

KIENZLE FOR WATCH MATERIALS PENDULUM TOOLS MOVEMENTS With or without bell; no sweep; 3!4" or ?fs'' FINDINGS shaft. Size: 43/,s" x 27fs'' x 1 w·. Pendulums available in 8". 9". 10". 12", 14". 16". 18" CASTING SUPPLIES and 21" lengths measured from shaft of movement to pendulum tip. Pendulum bob is 23/4" diameter (8" pendulum bob is 211s") . Mini-pendulum available adjustable from 2'12'' to 3'12'' with 3/4' bob. All fittings CALL US! furnished . Half hour and full hour strike move­ Nationwide Toll Free Number ments (Variostrike) with volume control of sound to silence. Available with or with­ 1-800-231-0143 out pendulum, chains and weights. Movements furnished with all fittings . Texas Toll Free Number 1-800-392-6910 ALARM CLOCK MOVEMENTS Sizes: 21/a" x 21!s" x 3/4" and 2114" x 29/,s" x 1".

Formerly Kienzle also stocks barometers, hygrometers. ther­ Stanley Donahue Co. mometers and a wide selection of dials, clock hands and CliVIM. numerals. See our complete line of mini, mini-mini and ~f 6one 600 N. Shepherd, No. 101 repeater alarm clocks. Immediate delivery on all items. Houston, Texas 77007 For technical information and catalogs, call or write Dept. T KIENZLE TIME CORP., INC. WRITE OR CALL FOR 100 Honing Road, Fox Lake, I L 60020 FINDINGS AND TOOL CATALOGS Phone: (312) 587-1101 KIENZLE-Associated with Time Since 1822

May 1981/Horofogical Times 45 TIHII PIICI~\bE IAIAilL

By Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

MISCELLANEOUS JEWELRY REPAIR Part I Articles that show up on the jeweler's Pierced earrings should have in the end to accommodate the clutch M. bench sometimes require repairs posts or wires made of no lesser quality back, round and polish the end so it will other than the usual ring sizings or setting metal than 14K yellow or white gold. easily insert through the hole in the ear work. Many of these repairs require a Lesser-quality metals are subject to lobe, and then cut off the post to the great amount of ingenuity, as well as tarnish (corrosion or oxidation) that exact length of the post on the matching the usual skills of the jeweler. By com­ can have an irritating effect on sensitive earring. The new post is then ready to bining the skills of the watchmaker skin and can even: cause serious infec­ be gold-soldered to the earring. If the and the jeweler, many a watch or piece tion of the ear lobes. As most post missing post is of the screw type (threaded of jewelry can be repaired that other­ clutch-type earrings are fitted with .8mm with screw nut), this presents a different wise would have to be refused or at posts, it is a good idea to stock some problem. Replacement threaded posts least sent out, requiring transportation 14K white and yellow gold wire. As and the screw nuts are available from the charges, risks, and extra time. In this many post earrings come in for repair material jobber. I have found two dif­ article, we will discuss some miscellaneous with a post missing, it is easy for a ferent diameters of these posts, 1mm repairs that can be made much easier watchmaker-jeweler to chuck up a piece and 1.1 Omm. I do not stock these re­ by combining the skills of the watch­ of this wire in a number 8 chuck in the placement posts, but I do have the wire maker and the jeweler. watchmaker's lathe, turn a small notch stock so that a piece of the correct

Figure 1

~D

A

Silver solder

F B

Point a

46 Horological Times/May 1981 B

A

Figure 2 diameter wire can be chucked up in the shape or broken, sometimes even in missing, a piece of identical size wire watchmaker's lathe, using number 10 more than one place. Sometimes part can be gold soldered, shaped, and cut chuck for I mm wire, or number II chuck of the wire is missing. These earwires off to match the samp~e. Always round for 1.1 Omm wire. The post can then be can be purchased from the material and polish the end after cutting with threaded to match the post on the good distributor, but as earwires are made in cutting pliers. earring; the end can be polished, and the many shapes and sizes, I find it better This covers only some of the overall length cut to match the other to stock the wire and either make a new possible repairs on posts and wires. post. The end should always be turned one to match the one in good condition, There are many other repairs on earrings round and polished smooth so no injury or repair the old broken one. Making that confront us, such as missing, broken, will result to the ear lobe when putting a new earwire requires round nose, chain or bent prongs, beads, or stone settings. on the earring. nose, and cutting pliers, and the wire All these repairs can be made with the When accepting repairs of this can be bent with these tools to match knowledge and skill of the jeweler, and kind, always insist that the good earring the sample. Some of these have the loop many are easier if the jeweler is also a be left with the one to be repaired for the drop bent in the wire, while watchmaker with watchmaker's tools so you have a pattern to go by and can others have a small ring soldered from and equipment. make the repaired earring identical to which the drop can dangle. A small Many times, earrings that are not the sample. Replacement posts should jump ring can be gold-soldered with the pierced come in to be converted into always be identical to the originals, so open part at the top, and then the drop pierced earrings. Each job must be that the nuts (or clutches) can be inter­ can be installed by bending the ring analyzed to see what metals have to be changed. open and closing it with chain nose soldered, and if stones are involved, The earwire type of pierced pliers, just as when installing any attach­ whether they will stand the heat of earring, often used in hanging drop-type ment with a jump ring. These wires can hard soldering or will have to be soft­ styles, also requires repair quite often. also be repaired by gold soldering the soldered or removed. Also to be considered We commonly get these bent out of breaks, or in case a part of the wire is is where .to locate the post so an emblem

May 1981 /Horological Times 4 7 or a pattern will stay upright when the as a gift, following up on gift-giving At These Prices earring is worn. As was previously stated, occasions by giving more charms. There­ although these posts can be purchased fore, when installing the original charm There is No Need from the material jobber, I usually make or charms, a little planning should be them. Many times, earrings of poor done in order to keep the charms evenly To Touch a Rusty quality are brought in with a request to spaced and balanced as more charms convert them, and the customer is willing are added. The first charm can be started Detent Screw to pay the cost. My thought on this is in the exact middle of the bracelet, and that if a good job can be done so that the as more are added, an uneven number Again! customer can derive pleasure and satis­ of links should be maintained between faction from wearing them, the customer charms (one, three, five, etc.). This is entitled to this service. These posts for way, a charm can always be added in the 100**** WRISTWATCH soft soldering can be made by punching a exact middle between the two existing MOVEMENTS piece of thin gold in the watchmaker's charms. If several charms are to be MANY STILL RUNNING! staking tool with a round bottom punch installed on a bracelet with no charms, Package Will Contain at Least: and then gold soldering the post to the it is wise to start in the center with the center of the dome side. For use with largest, adding the next largest on each 2 Hamiltons 5 Bulovas half-drilled pearls, this concave or domed side, then the next two largest on each 2 Longines disc can be drilled, the post cut a little side of those, etc. The charms will taper longer, and the soldering done with the down from center to each side, making 1 Automatic with case post protruding through the disc. The a very attractive arrangement. When 5 Regular in cases half-drilled pearl can then be cemented to charms are added intermittently, the the earring with Aaron Alpha cement. tapered arrangement cannot be main­ 85 Other Assorted Swiss and Most jewelry stores sell charm tained without shuffling charms around, American High Jewel bracelets and charms, and it is usually and this can be costly if they are soldered Movements up to the watchmaker-jeweler to install on. However, at least the spacing can be the charms on the bracelet. The quality maintained if the odd number of links Your Price $119 00 of the chain bracelets and charms can between charms is obseiVed . View A, (100 Wrist • range from inexpensive gold or rhodium Figure I illustrates the proper spacing of Watch Package) plate to good sterling silver or 14K charms. These are prepackaged and will be shipped gold. The charms usually come with jump postage paid the day your ch eck arrives rings for attaching them to the bracelet Bead and pearl stringing is a (Monday- Friday). Include $4.00 extra if and they can easily be attached with repair we occasionally encounter. Even you wish airmail. Please do not ask for chain nose or flat nose pliers. This is though a jewelry repairman or watch­ substitutions. fairly secure if the opening in the jump maker does not usually get enough of ring is tightly closed and aligned properly. this work to really become proficient, when these jobs can be done on the POCKET**** WATCH Many customers request that they be soldered in the split to make them more premises without the delay of sending MOVEMENT SPECIAL!! secure. The inexpensive ones can be them out or the risk of loss in transit, soft soldered quickly with a soldering the price that can be charged will easily 11GOODPOCKETWATCH iron, soft solder flux, and lead-base solder. compensate for the time and material MOVEMENTS As some charms are molded from a lead­ involved. There are many problems involved in bead stringing that require Package Will Contain at Least: base alloy, care must be used not to melt the ring that is molded in the charm. ingenuity, and I will discuss some of 5 American 7 to 15 jewels Therefore, never use a torch for these these. Several materials are used in 5 other nice 7 to 15 jewel charms. Sterling silver or gold charms can be hard soldered, using silver solder stringing pearls and beads, with nylon movements from Os to 18s with silver and gold solder with gold. or linen cord, plastic-coated wire cable, 1 complete 16s or 18s with case This can be done with a torch or a and fox tail chain being the most com­ soldering machine. Many silver charms monly used. Nylon bead cord is the most Your Price come with oval tapered-end jump rings, frequently used and is available in several $99 00 diameters. It can be purchased by the (11 Pocket • and when soldered, do not make a very neat job. I always keep on hand round spool with beading needles purchased Watch Package) heavy silver jump rings (number 36) separately, or in individually packaged assortments with a needle already attached These are prepackaged and will be shipped which are substituted for the originals. To silver solder these, insert a small to a length of cord approximately the postage paid the day your check arrives proper length to string one strand. The (Monday-Friday). Include $4.00 extra if piece of silver solder in the split, flux you wish airmail. Please do not ask for with hard solder flux, and apply heat assortment usually contains cord of substitutions. until the solder flows . To hold while three or four different diameters. Plastic­ applying heat, use an old pair of 3-C covered wire cable can be purchased in Your Company Check is O.K. tweezers and hold as illustrated in Figure small coils in at least three different diameters. Foxtail chain can be ordered SATISFACTION GUARANTEED 1, View B. Gold or gold filled can be soldered in exactly the same manner, by the foot in several different thick­ (5 Day Return Privilege) only using gold solder. As silver is a nesses. Use that diameter of cable or better conductor of heat than gold or foxtail chain which will easily thread WATCHES gold filled , it will require more heat through the hole in the beads; when using to make the silver solder flow. cord, choose the diameter which, when UNLIMITED doubled, will fit through the hole. Charms are a repeat business Usually fishhook or box-and­ 530 "B" Street No. 1215 item as customers usually buy a bracelet tongue catches are used with bead cord San Diego, CA 92101 and one or a limited number of charms and spring rings and jump rings are used

48 Horologica/ Times/May 1981 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS with foxtail chain. With wire cable, chain can be used with a beading needle, (Continued from page 20) one generally uses a catch that threads but the wire must be put through the end together with a male thread on one link before twisting. A jump ring can be Rue Des Infants in 1850. He invented the half and a female thread in the other installed in the end link on the opposite escapement known by his name and the half. Figure 1, Views C and D show end before the first bead is strung. unique and popular suspension of the pen­ the fishhook catch; E and F show the There may be many methods dulum system. The later patents were box-and-tongue, and G shows the screw­ for making the repairs described above, dated 1858. He devised a free pendulum together catch. The threaded catch uses some better and quicker. If you know escapement and a perpetual calendar a small tubular ring that slips over the of them, use them, but these methods mechanism often used in elegant French end of the cable and is crimped tightly work for me and make profitable and mantel clocks. Some clocks attributed to over the cable. It then slips back in the durable repairs possible. I hope that Brocot have a form of coup-perdu es­ recession in the catch end and will be they are helpful to some of my fellow capement. Perhaps there should be a book secure. This is shown in Figure 1, View watchmakers and jewelers. on Brocot. It is said his first invention, G, point a. All these supplies are available The next article will be a con­ probably the escapement, was made when from most material distributors. Soft tinuation of miscellaneous repairs. he was but nineteen years old. stone beads, such as oddly shaped or large turquoise, are usually strung on plastic­ covered cable. Foxtail chain is used for glass, hard crystal, or stone beads that have sharp edges on the rim of the drilled holes which would cut bead cord in a short while. Nylon or linen cord is used for pearls and most simulated stone beads. For regular bead stringing, I use SIX nylon cord that I purchase by the spool. I make my own beading needles. BIRTHSTONE To make beading needles, I use a piece of number 24 binding wire that I always keep on hand for jewelry work. This FOILBACK piece of wire is bent double (See Figure 2, View D) and the end chucked in a ASSORTMENTS pin vise. With a prong pusher through the loop end, the wire is twisted by rotating the pin vise. See Figure 2, Views A, B, and C. The end is cut off, the bead cord put through the loop end, and when enough length is threaded, the ends are knotted together and cut from the spool. This hand-made bead needle is made of fine enough wire that even when doubled it will go through the holes in any beads that I have en­ countered. Also, binding wire is soft enough to twist tightly. IN 12 BOTTLE CABINETS YOUR CHOICE $15.30 EACH There are several ways to attach bead clasps. On less expensive beads and pearl the bead tip is commonly used. ASSORTMENT NO. QUANTITY DESCRIPTION This is a small concave disc, drilled in the center, with a metal strap forming 431 1 gross Assorted sizes, 3.0 mm to a ring around it. It looks a little like a 7.3 mm diameter. 12 colors* round-bottomed bucket with a hole in 433 2 gross Stone #414, 3.0 mm diameter* the bottom. Before any pearls or beads 435 2 gross Stone #418, 4.1 mm diameter* are strung, this should be strung on the 437 1 gross Stone #422, 5.4 mm diameter* cord with the knot resting in the concave. 439 2h gross Stone #424, 6.3 mm diameter* The ends of nylon cord can be fused by 441 V2 gross Stone #426, 7.3 mm diameter* heating with a match, cigarette lighter, or flame from an alcohol lamp which *AVAILABLE IN THESE 12 VIBRANT COLORS will keep the knot from ever coming untied. With linen cord, a little crystal January Garnet July Ruby cement will accomplish the same thing. February Amethyst August Peridot I always knot the first three beads in­ March Aqua September Sapphire dividually on any strand that does not April Crystal October Rose have to be strung with knots between May Emerald November Topaz each bead. This is because bead cord June Light Amethyst December Blue Zircon will usually break close to the clasp, and with these three knots, only one Available through your Newall jobber. bead is apt to be lost if the cord breaks. Price is subject to change without noticP. In stringing with cable, no beading needle is necessary because the cable is stiff THE NEWALL MFG. CO. enough to go through the beads. Foxtail 139 North Wabash Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60602

May 1981 /Horologi.cal Times 49 Affiliate Chapter Column/Robert F. Bishop

Affiliate Chapter Glossary

wo months ago, we discussed ways antagonism by various state governments T to help a chapter grow. Continuing toward these protective laws. our Affiliate Chapter Glossary, we will Recent court cases have ruled skip a few letters and stop at the letter that it is unconstitutional to restrict an "L." individual's right to practice a profession, unless that profession affects the public Leadership : n. those who direct the health, safety, or welfare. It is hard to operation, activities, or per­ understand why a "butcher" job on a formance of a group or customer's watch does not involve the organization. public welfare, but such is the case in many states that have lost their licensing One of the reasons-or, more laws. Another reason is that there have accurately, the excuses-for the pro b­ been few complaints brought before the lems experienced by a chapter is the licensing board, and therefore, the public lack of leadership. True, no group can is not overly concerned. This may be operate without a leader. Just as a ship true, but the real value of a license lies needs a rudder to keep from wandering Robert F. Bishop in the fact that the watchmaker has aimlessly on the sea, each chapter needs uneasy or unwilling to assume a leader­ demonstrated his ·compentency at some members who will act as the rudder. ship role. point in time, and the general level of However, the rudder cannot function If this is true, it is doubly skill is higher in a licensed state. without a driving force, whether it be important that you support your leaders Thus it is now up to us-the the wind, the engine, or the motivation in every way you can. You-the member­ individual member and the Affiliate of the rank and file members. Too must be the driving force. Don't force Chapter and A WI-to do all we can to many times, however, the leaders must your leaders to be both the rudder maintain professionalism and a sense of be both the rudder and the engine. and the engine. ethics whenever and wherever we can. Theoretically, the good leader needs only to inspire others to do the License: n. a permission granted by a work, but in practice, this is seldom the competent authority to engage Little more than a month remains before case. The dedicated member who accepts in a business, occupation, or our 1981 Affiliate Chapter Meeting. It a leadership role often finds it easier activity, otherwise unlawful. will be held this year on Friday, June and quicker to do the job himself. While 26th, at the Americana Inn, Cincinnati this is theoretically wrong, I can under­ Watchmakers' associations have Airport. By now your officers will have stand the reasons. A watchmaker's most been formed for the sole purpose of received the Affiliate Chapter Report valuable asset is time; the time spent securing licensing laws in their state, Form and a new questionnaire on how away from the bench must be spent because they wished to protect the public your chapter organizes and holds its wisely. I know from experience that the from unskilled or unethical watch­ annual convention. We feel that this will temptation to do chapter business the makers. Wisconsin, Michigan, Indiana, be of great help to those chapters which quickest way is very strong. North Carolina, Florida, Louisiana, Iowa, are not as experienced as others in this Perhaps the "let George do it" Minnesota, Kentucky, North Dakota, and important activity. Please give it your syndrome is more prevalent among Oregon are all states which have or have support. watchmakers than other professions. The had licensing laws. Because this is an Express your feelings about the very nature of our craft requires qualities effort by a profession to insure profes­ role of A WI, your chapter, and our of patience and the ability to work long sional standards of its members and industry in your work life to your dele­ periods essentially alone. Although there promote consumer confidence in a gate, so that he can be your voice at the are exceptions, because of these qualities, service that the public knows little about, Chapter Meeting and the A WI Board many are somewhat introverted and are it is hard to understand the current of Directors meeting following. UCill

50 Horological Times/May 1981 ... from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

CONVENTIONS AND SEMINARS

ARIZONA attorney from Kalona, Iowa. His speciality With these instruments, Okuda promises The Third Annual Convention of the is small, family-owned corporations and a jeweler will be able to grade any color Arizona Horologi.cal Association will be estate planning for the businessman. gem stone safely and accurately, and held at the Doubletree Inn, Tucson, The program concentrated on planning determine the clarity, color, and pro­ Arizona on Saturday and Sunday, May estates so as to pay the least amount portion of a diamond all in a few easy 16 and 17, 19 81. This Association is of taxes and the best ways to retire from steps. the statewide organization for watch­ the jewelry business while paying the Guest speaker at the March makers and clockmakers and affiliated least amount of taxes. Also discussed meeting of the Association was Mr. crafts and is a chapter of the American were the advantages and disadvantages Galo Destruge, director of technical and Watchmakers Institute. of incorporating. repair services for Longines. Saturday will be devoted to regis­ Also featured was a film called He presented an illustrated talk tration and a golf tournament, which will "Gems of the Americas," which was on the electronic ESA 9150 and 9156 be played at the Randolph North Golf followed by a round-table discussion covering various techniques of disassembly Course where the recent Tucson Open and another film entitled "This is a and reassembly for efficient repair. was won by Johnnie Miller. Golf will be Hold-Up." Both are early models and were chosen followed by a cocktail hour hosted by Cal Sustachek, a Field Service for discussion so the rapid progress being McGuire's Jewelry Supply of Tucson Instructor for Bulova Watch Company, made in electronics could also be dis­ and Langert Brothers Co. of Phoenix. held two Bench Courses. The course cussed. A dinner will be held in the evening, covered the Bulova Accuquartz. Mr. Destruge advised all watch­ followed by dancing and live music. makers present that Longines will gladly Sunday morning will feature a supply them with technical bulletins on continental breakfast hosted by Mr. request. and Mrs. Norman Levine of Portescap OHIO Corporation. The National Association Now is the time to be making reser­ of Watch and Clock Collectors, Chapter vations and completing plans to attend 113, Tucson, will display many of their the next WAO-A WI seminar in Zanes­ ILLINOIS valuable and rare watches and clocks. ville, Ohio on Sunday, May 17. Les The educational program will Smith will be instructing on the Seiko "Selling Repairs" was the topic of the consist of three seminars. Dr. Joseph LCD Chronograph/Alarm. There will be March 19, 1981 meeting of the Central Baier of Phoenix, second vice-president the usual Saturday night Hospitality Illinois Watchmakers Association. Guest of AWl, will present a program; Mr. Room for all WAO members and spouses. speaker was Mr. Lester Chambers, manager Gene Chipley of Prescott will demon­ of Robert Burke Jewelers and Manu­ strate his processes for building wooden facturers in Peoria, Illinois. wheel clocks. Bulova Watch Company NEW JERSEY will also participate with an afternoon An exciting look at a new microminia­ program, following a lavish buffet lun­ turization process, by which Japan cheon. Door prizes will be awarded, threatens to revolutionize the diamond PENNSYLVANIA followed by a short meeting and adjourn­ industry, was featured at the February Nine watchmakers from the central ment. meeting of the Watchmakers Association Pennsylvania area met in State College, All watchmakers, clockmakers, of New Jersey. The speaker was Mr. Pennsylvania on Sunday, March 15, 1981 and collectors in the state will receive Harold Smith, the New Jersey sales to form the Keystone Watchmakers an invitation to attend this fine con­ representative of Okuda Jewelry Tech­ Guild, under the by-laws of the Watch­ vention. The state officers cordially nical Institute, United States. makers Association of Pennsylvania, Inc. invite the participation of interested Okuda JTI is introducing scien­ George H. Jones was elected president; horologists. tific printing of investment diamonds in William laggard, vice-president; and Stan­ this country. By this method, an in­ ley Wall, secretary-treasurer. scription is put on the stone itself to Regular meetings will be held IOWA show a guarantee number, carats, pro­ the third Tuesday of each month, with The Spring Technical Seminar of the portion, clarity, and color grade. Okuda programs designed to keep its members Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Associa­ claims this imprint is so precise and fine current with the changing technology in tion was held on April 5, 1981 in Des that it does not affect the weight or the watch repair profession. Moines, Iowa. integrity of the stone. Ralph Henning, President of the The many features of the seminar Also presented was a demon­ Watchmakers Association of Pennsylvania, included a program on "Estate Planning" stration of the Okuda diamond grading Paul Fehrenbach, Director, Robert Murt­ by Mr. Pete F. Buffer. Mr. Buffer is an microscope and color grading computer. land, President of the Allegheny Watch-

May 1981/Horological Times 51 makers Guild of WAOP, and Bob Bi~hop, - Prediction of the future price of gold. Affiliate Chapter Director of the American - Key historical events affecting gold, Watchmakers Institute, were present and such as the gold coinage recall in 1933. aided in the formation of the new guild. - The relationship of gold to the petrol Following the meeting, an A WI dollar. slide-tape program, "Casing Made Easy" - The role of the Hunt brothers in silver. was presented, after which a dinner The talk was not only a fas­ was held for the members and their cinating descriptive presentation, but was wives. also replete with practical information. Watchmakers in the central For example, Mr. Vigdor pointed out Pennsylvania area who wish to join the that whereas the very popular Krugerrand Keystone Guild may do so by contacting coin contained 22 karats of gold, the less George Jones at 814-238-1668 or 238- known Canadian Maple Leaf contained 2741. 24. Consequently, when melting the coins The Keystone Guild becomes down to gold bars, the Krugerrand the fourth guild in the State organiza­ required an extra refining fee which was tion. The others are the Allegheny, unnecessary for the Maple Leaf. Central, and Delaware Valley watch­ A very active question and answer Luis Vigdor, Vice-president of Manfra, Tordella and Brookes, addressing the makers guilds. period concluded the meeting. Horological Society of New York.

The new officers of the Horologi­ NEW YORK cal Society of New York are (left On Monday, March 2, 1981, Luis Vigdor, to right, seated) AI Rudnick, vice-president of Manfra, Tordella and executive secretary; Ann-Louise Brookes, addressed the Horological Soci­ Brackbill, vice-president; Aaron Rennert, President; Harry Fisher, ety of New York on the subject of gold. editor; Peter Davis, treasurer. Gold has fascinated the general (Second row) Ben Matz, execu­ public but has a special significance to tive committee; Aaron Cohan, the jewelry industry and all the fields executive committee; Irving Al­ bert, trustee; Dennis Tricarico and related to it. The members of HSNY Irving Feld, execurive committee. had a rare treat in that Mr. Vigdor's (Third row) Morton Silver, execu­ presentation covered an extremely wide tive committee; Victor Hull, re­ range of topics such as: cording secretaty; Howard Levy, trustee. - How the price of gold is determined on the international markets.

Your Complete Digital Why Watch Material Not and Equipment Supplier Drop lls Over 80 popular LED and LCD module types in stock includ· • ing some universal types . A J Complete line of equipment and tools for the beginner as well • as the expert repairperson . Note1

Components - including: quartz crystals, LCD displays, trim • capacitors, LCD backlights, batteries, LCD alarm parts, push buttons, module hardware, and much, much, morel EXPRESS YOURSELF! • Repair service at reasonable prices on all quartz types includ­ What you do like ... ing LED, LCD, and quartz analog. what you don't like AWl/ about the Horological Times Custom Watch Service - Want your own digital watch line Horo/ogical Times. • that you back up with your own parts and service? We can 3700 Harrison Avenue help you get started . Cincinnati, Ohio 45211

DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR HOTLINE! - Mon. thru Fri., • 9 AM-Noon. Do you have a question about a digital watch you are repairing? Call- (215) 565-7611. PARTS MADE for CLOCKS & WATCHES or ANY Instrument!! CALL OR WRITE FOR OUR FREE CATALOGUE ALSO: Gear Cutting and Engraving; Watchmakers' Tools & Equipment Repaired~··- DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR Engraving Machine Cutters Resharpened ~ ~ PARTS AND EQUIPMENT PRECISION Omt-r.umwt ~ ~. BERNARD J. PETIT P.O. Box 7DDD4 ~ ~·;:;'f"-"• 1 STATE RD., MEDIA, PA 19063 Instrument maker and Charleston, SC 294D5 ~~ (215) 565-7610 Horologist Tel. 803-553-1198

52 Horological Times/May 1981 NORTH CAROLINA The Triangle Guild of the North Carolina Watchmakers As­ sociation held a meeting on February 9, 1981 in Cary. Mr. John Capps recounted his experiences in a GIA Gemology course which he took in California. The Land of the Sky Guild held elections during their first meeting of the year. The results are: President, A. C. Hogan; 1st Vice-President, Conrad Hoxit; Director, Wilbur L. Miller; and Secretary, Fred A. Kolls. The Unifour Guild held a meeting February 10, 1981 in Hickory. A slide presentation from AWl on selling was featured. At the Piedmont Crescent Guild's monthly meeting in Mooresville, AWl slides on clock escapements were featured. On Sunday, February 1, 1981, the North Carolina Watchmakers Guild's Board of Directors held a meeting in Charlotte. Walter Hanson presented an account of the State Convention, seminars, demonstrations, and speakers. 'UCJB

CLOCK CHATTER (Continued from page 25)

having been made in one form or other since horological times immemorial. The basic materials are shown at the bottom of Figure 15 and consist of a piece of bushing wire with a piece of pivot wire that fits the hole with a small amount of play. The wire is given a bend which assures a tight fit in the tube yet allows easy sliding action for use. Three examples are shown at the top. The two outer • No Torch or Oas Tanks needed ones have had the wire thinned down for holes of small • Used for Hard or Soft Soldering diameters. The thinning down is done on the lathe-obviously • Up to 2000° F. before you put the bend in the wire. The center one is a • Now being used by thousands of modern variation featuring a collar made for it with a cut-out portion jewelers and craftsmen to straddle any obstruction. The operation is the same. SOLDERING MACHINE AND DEMAGNETIZER The idea of the operation is to push the wire out You will find it easy to use this compact. efficient far enough so that when you push the tool down, the edge machine for soldering rings, jewelry, spectacle frames of the bushing tube makes contact with the upper portion of or anything where hard or soft solder is needed. Heat the item being measured and the end of the wire is in contact range for soldering the lightest work, to heavy gold and silver rings. Heat is controlled by a selector knob so that with the bottom, thereby measuring the depth. A ruler may be you can dial the correct heat. The heat for soldering is used to measure the amount of wire extending, or the tool produced electrically, without flame, by touching a car­ may be used as a direct measure by comparing it with the bon electrode to the work to be soldered. The current item being made or altered. It is excellent for balance staff passing through the carbon will heat the object to be work, stem depths, cylinders, and many other places that soldered in a matter of seconds. Carbons are copper plated to insure good contact. The require depth measurements. large carbon holder can be adjusted to use carbons Let your imagination and ingenuity take over and both horizontally or vertically, and is made low enough fly away. It is a certainty that many of you have far better so that both hands can rest on the bench. ideas than these, so how about taking a minute or two to SPECIFICATIONS send your little gems to Joe Crooks, our beloved "Jingle • Maximum 1000 Watts • 115-Volt. 60 Cycle, AC Joe." He needs the work! IJLlli 11 11 11 • Dimensions: 10'/4 x 63/4 x 4V8 • Weight 12 lbs.

SHOCKPROOFI The voltage at the highest heat is very low and the hands may touch any part of the carbon DON'T TURN AWAY ORIENT holders or contact clips without sensation of shock. WATCHES FOR REPAIR. WE CAN DEMAGNETIZES, TOOl Watch movements, small in­ SUPPLY MOST PARTS FOR ORIENT. struments, or small tools can be quickly demagnetized HELP US TO PROCESS YOUR ORDER CORRECTLY by following the simple instructions. THE FIRST TIME BY INCLUDING ALL OF THE SET CONTAINS: FOLLOWING INFORMATION: • Foot Control Switch • Clamp for small items A-MOVEMENT CALIBER NUMBER. • .3 large carbons • Clamp for large items B-ALL NUMBERS FROM BACK OF CASE. • 2 small carbons • Stand for large carbon C-COLOR OF CASE. • Contact rod • Complete instructions ,_c.o!tf.o KILB & COMPANY Order PRO-CRAFT Soldering Machine No. 42-553 ~M~ 219 NORTH MILWAUKEE ST. from Your Jewelers' Supply House! ~w-< P.O. DRAWER 8-A 'Ul' MILWAUKEE, WI 53201 jJ:/:/JicRAFtf A PRODUCT OF GFC • P.O. BOX 243 • CARLSTADT, N.J. 07072

May 1981 /Horological Times 53 TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 9) 8 tooth reaches the edge of the receiving lip of the cylinder, it unlocks and the impulse plane of the tooth slides across the lip of the cylinder, giving impulse to the balance wheel. When the tooth leaves the receiving lip of the cylinder, it drops onto the inside wall of the cylinder as in View "d." The balance continues to travel in the direction of the arrow as in View "e." Then the balance reverses as in View "f." The tooth reaches the discharge lip of the cylinder and unlocks as at "g" and slides over the discharge lip, giving impulse to the balance. When the tooth leaves this lip, another tooth drops onto the outside of the cylinder. This completes the whole cycle of locking, drop, and impulse. Figure 5 shows the construction of the cylinder. Figure 3 The receiving impulse face is left with somewhat of a semi­ circular rounded face with 3° lock and 3° impulse. The dis­ charge impulse face has a longer curved shape which is 10°. The lock on this side is 3° as is the receiving side. The shell of the cylinder spans 180° from the locking point on the receiving side to the start of the impulse face on the discharge side, as is illustrated in Figure 5. Figure 6 shows the drop on the cylinder escapement. View A shows the outside drop. This space must be a suf­ ficient amount to prevent the heel of the tooth from touching the outside surface of the cylinder. The drop allowed is usually 1°. If there is insufficient outside drop and excessive inside drop, then the cylinder is too large. View B, Figure 6 shows the inside drop. This should be 1° also. If the inside drop is

Figure 4 Win CITY SUPPL insufficient and the outside drop is excessive, this could Serving the industry since 1921 indicate that the wall of the cylinder is too thick, or the cylinder is too small. If the outside drop is correct and the LARGE STOCK OF OLD AMERICAN AND inside drop is insufficient, this indicates that the cylinder wall DISCONTINUED SWISS PARTS is too thick. The drops must always be made equal. The maximum amount of motion the balance wheel FULL LINE OF GENUINE MATERIALS can take in a cylinder escapement is slightly less than one turn. This amount of motion is limited due to the design of LOWEST PRICES ON BATTERY CLOCK MOVEMENTS the escapement. To limit the motion, a small banking pin is placed in the edge of the balance wheel. This banking pin • DIAL REFINISHING • HAIRSPRING VIBRATING works in connection with a banking stud that extends down­ •CRYSTAL FITTING SERVICE ward underneath the balance cock. The action of the banking pin with the banking stud is shown in Figure 7. An escape 5701 West 36th Street, Minneapolis, MN 55416. (612) 920-31 15 wheel tooth is locked up inside the cylinder with the banking

RENATA WATCH BATTERIES SWISS MADE- THE ORIGINAL WATCH BATTERY USED BY THE FINEST WATCH MANUFACTURERS INCLUDING THOSE OF THE EXTRA-THIN MODELS- AT CONSIDERABLE SAVINGS!

ASK FOR CROSS REFERENCE AND PRICE LIST AUTHORIZED DISTRIBUTORS FOR NORTH AMERICA

THE SWISS WATCH PARTS DISTR'S INC., THE SWISS WATCH PARTS DISTR'S LTD. P.O. BOX 51 P.O. BOX 891 SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 98111 VANCOUVER; B.C. V6C 2N7 U.S.A. CANADA

54 Horological Times/May 1981 GUARTZ WATCH TIMER

Remote Probe Modei1050A

MODEL 1000

• Tests all digital watches. • Readout of error in seconds per month. • Fast or slow indication. • Battery tester. • Counter top usage. • Simple to use. • Full service guarantee.

Zantech's Model 1000 Digital Watch Monitor is a quartz watch (LED, LCD, Analog) tester and repair aid. It gives instantaneous readout of the watch's time base frequency without requiring electrical contact or disassembly of the watch. The Model 1000 is extremely accurate. Timing adjustments can be made quickly and easily with a minimum of effort. It is an indispensable tool for trouble shooting the oscillator circuit (quartz crystal, trimmer, etc.) of any quartz watch LED, LCD or Analog. Price $995.00 ·inc. Analog Sensor. Probe j Model 1050A · $125.00 ·inc. Analogue Sensor. FEATURES: Accuracy:- A 10MHz TCXO reference crystal insures!. 1 second per month reliability. Readout:- Seconds per month. Range: - ± 200 seconds per month. Frequen.cy:- 32,768 Hz and 786, 432Hz. Speed of Response:- Every 1/2 second the instrument senses and displays the watch accuracy. Sensitivity:- No contact is necessary, module frequencies can be sensed inches away from the sensor. EXTRA FEATURES: 1Y. and 3 volt supplementary power supply. Battery Tester with selectable high, medium and low drain load resistors. For further information regarding Model 1000, equipment, parts, training course or placing order, write or call ZANTECH, INC. Thank You c/~ t/~, President

ZANTECH INC. • 77 SHADY LANE • TRENTON, NEW JERSEY 08619 • 609 586-5088 a a ' t

Figure 5 A B

Figure 7 pin against the banking stud at "a" in View A, Figure 7. There should be a slight amount of clearance between the arm of the teeth and the edge of the cylinder wall as shown at "b '' in Figure 7, View A. If there is no clearance, the watch is likely to gain time because the balance will get a rebound as the edge of the cylinder wall strikes the teeth. If this condi­ tion does exist, then the edge of the cylinder wall that clears the rim of the wheel should be cut back further to correct B this condition. Figure 7, View B shows an escape wheel tooth locked up on the outside wall of the cylinder when the banking pin goes against the banking stud at "a." The toe of the escape FigureS wheel tooth must still be locked safely on the outside of the cylinder wall. If the cylinder is inserted into the balance wheel in an incorrect position in relationship to the banking NEW PRICES pin, the toes of the escape wheel teeth can become locked up BETWEEN 1¢-2¢ ea. on the cylinder wall at point "b" in Figure 7, View B. When this happens, the escapement is said to be overbanked. To SINGLE SHOULDER correct this condition, the balance wheel is turned on the No. 600-631 Specify 1/4", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", Box of 100 $ 1.50 cylinder until the banking pin is at right angles to a line 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", or 3/4". Per 1000 11.50 running across the impulse faces of the cylinder. Most cylinder watches and clocks have three dots DOUBLE SHOULDER "==ii~~~~~~~~~~~~ No. 600-648 on the plate close to the balance wheel. There is also a dot Specify 3/8", 7/16",1/2",9/16", Box of 100 $ 1.50 on the edge of the balance wheel. This is shown in Figure 8. 5/8", 11/16", 3/4", 7/8". Per 1000 12.00 These dots are used in checking the escapement for the proper TELESCOPIC amount of lock and impulse. These dots can also be used to No. 600-641 tell if the escapement is in beat, especially if the cylinder is Specify 7/16"-1/2", 1/2"-9/16", Box of 100 $ 2.00 5/8"-11/16", or 11/16"-3/4"-13/16". Per 1000 18.00 placed in the balance wheel in the proper position. The cylinder (Continued on page 58) CURVED No. 600-632 Box of 100 $ 2.00 Specify 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", or 3/4". Per 1000 18.00 JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL Watch Repair • Clock and Jewelry Repair • Lapidary Vocational Counseling and Placement NATTS & V.A. Approved Dormitory, Dining • Gym and Heated Pool Aid available if qualified Quality Instruction Since 1945 40-24 62nd Street, Woodside, NY 11377 (212) 424-2929

56 Horological Times/May 1981 Bench Tips 1 Joe Crooks

Tightening the 218 Accutron Center Wheel Assembly A practical tip from Mr. Winfred Linder, Insert needle between one of the two 119 N. Church St., Spartanburg, South arms and the rim of the wheel into the Carolina 29301. hole. Then tighten the pin vise on the needle about ~mm above wheel. Press In fact, I like this idea so well, I am now 72 years old and have been straight down into the hole until the pin I tried it on a three-spoke ETA wheel repairing watches for the past 60 years. vise touches the wheel and repeat the with great results. I had been smacking My experience began while watching same process on the other arm. them with a very slightly oval punch my dad when I was 6 years old. At 12 The pin vise works just like a on the topside of the wheel, which was I started my apprenticeship under dad. depth gauge and there is no danger of centered in the staking tool. Having now retired, I will have bending the two spokes out of round Clean the wheel and cannon some leisure time and will be glad to or breaking them. pinion before snapping together, and share some of my tips about problem Snap cannon pinion on wheel then lubricate lightly with Molylodenum jobs in watch repair. If you can use it, and, if not tight enough, move needle Disulphide (Moebius OL-207) before here is one that comes to mind now. out of the pin vise ~mm more to repeat checking for tightness. Sad to say, had This is how I tighten an Accutron the procedure again. these type wheel and cannon pinions 218 center wheel on the cannon pinion. been lubed with "black Molly" the last Tools needed are a small pin Thanks for the Accutron tip, Winfred. time they were cleaned, they would not vise, bench anvil, and a needle of the Didn't clear it with my good friend Mr. have become loose. correct diameter. Henry Frystak because I know he will With your 60 years at the bench, Place wheel, with the pinion approve of this safe way to tighten the you have witnessed many changes in our removed, over hole in the bench anvil. 218 wheel and pinion. profession and we will certainly welcome any tips you may send us to share with Pin Vise and Needle. (Anv il and wheel are fellow craftsmen. show n i n cross-section.) Our sincere best wishes to you and Mrs. Linder in your retirement and may they be many happy years.

Send your tips to Jingle Joe, 265 N. Main St., Mooresville, North Carolina 2811 5.

FOR SALE-WATCH PARTS DEPARTMENT Complete Materials Department On Sale • Terms Available • Excellent Opportunity ·. ARNOLD VICKSMAN .· Call Toll Free! In Colorado Only: 800-525-3715 800-332-3843

Lm~ EST PRICES esANVO [EVEREADY~ + LITHIUM BATTERIES WORLD'S LEADING NO ~1INIMUM ORDER WATCH BATTERY + NO FREIGHT CHARGE + SALES COMPANY 2% CASH DISCOUNT + 32250 Red Clover Road FREE CROSS-REF. NB P.O. Box 2063 Farmington Hills, Mich. 48018 maxell®W nde o~ Phone: (313) 553-0947

May 1981 /Horological Times 57 TECHNICALLY WATCHES (Continued from page 56)

• B

Figure 9 When the escapement is in beat, a tooth of the escape wheel should be resting almost centered on one or the other of the impulse faces of the cylinder, and the dot on the wheel should

Figure 8 be in line with the center dot on the plate. To check the amount of lock and impulse, move the balance wheel with should be inserted into the balance in such a position that the finger until a tooth drops and locks up. Note the position the two lips of the cylinder are at right angles to a line running of the dot on the edge of the balance wheel in relation to one through the center of the cylinder and the banking pin on the of the outside dots on the plate. If the lock and impulse edge of the rim of the balance wheel. This is shown by the are correct, these dots should be lined up. Now, turn the dotted line in Figure 8. The banking stud in the balance cock balance the opposite direction until a tooth drops and locks up should be opposite the banking pin. When these conditions again. Then see if the dots line up. If the dot on the balance are achieved, the dot on the balance wheel should be lined up wheel goes past the outside dots on the plate, then the escape­ with the center dot on the plate. The escapement should ment is set too deeply. If the escape wheel teeth drop and be in beat when these two dots line up if everything is correct. lock before the dot on the balance wheel reaches the outside dots, the escapement is set too shallow. The total impulse should be 40° with 20° on each impulse face of the cylinder Sleeve Wrench when correctly set up. To adjust the depthing on a cylinder escapement, 14 Prong an adjustable plate called a chariot is shifted nearer or farther No. T422 away from the escape wheel. This arrangement is shown in Figure 9. View A shows a cross section view of the construc­ Value $14.35 tion of the chariot fitted to a watch or clock plate. Point "a" is the chariot, "b" is the watch or clock plate, "c" is the balance cock, "d" is the chariot screw, and "e" is the chariot Now Only steady pin. As will be seen in Figure 9, the balance cock is attached to the chariot by steady pins and the balance cock $8.76 screw. When the chariot is moved, the balance cock is like­ wise moved, and since the cylinder is supported by the jewels in the balance cock and the jewels in the chariot, it is moved also. This causes the depthing between the cylinder and the escape wheel to be changed to correct a light lock or a heavy No.BR23 Value $10.20 Tweezer lock. Figure 9, View B shows a flat view of the chariot. Note the space around the chariot to allow it to be shifted. Now Only $6.33 Usually a mark is placed on the chariot and plate so the amount of the move can be noted. This mark is shown at "a." The SEND FOR LIST OF MANY chariot screw is shown at "b." To shift the chariot, loosen the ADDITIONAL BARGAINS AVAILABLE chariot screw and shift the chariot; then retighten the screw. Include $1.00 extra for postage In order to shift the chariot, it may be necessary to slightly bend the chariot steady pin in the direction opposite to the direction the chariot is moved. Sometimes it is necessary to G & G's Miracle House slightly enlarge the hole in the plate that the steady pin fits DEPT. WC into in order to shift the chariot enough. P.O. Box 23234 • 5621 West Hemlock Next month, the making and fitting of cylinders Milwaukee, WI 53223 and cylinder plugs will be discussed. Trouble shooting of the (414) 353-1900 cylinder escapement will also be discussed. ucm

58 Horological Times/May 1981 Methyl Isobutyl Keytone (Hexone, MIBK) lack of coordination, it seems safe for GOOD & WELFARE: CHEMICALS TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m. * short term exposures. It absorbs water (Continued from page 13) TLV-STEL 125 p.p.m.* much like alcohol but does not con­ CCFP 73°F taminate itself by absorbing water vapor degreaser, solvent, and dry cleaner. The vapor of this solvent attacks from the air. Its early effects are as an anesthetic the membranes of the eyes, nose, and affecting visual perception and motor throat, followed by weakness, headache, Ethyl Alcohol (Echanol) skills somewhat like a narcotic. Long­ nausea, dizziness, etc. It has a bad odor TLV-TWA 1000 p.p.m. term problems include effects on the and irritates the eyes at concentrations CCFP 55° F heart, liver, kidney, lung, and skin. Its of about 200 p.p.m. It may affect the (Odor threshold is about 1000 p.p.m.) carcinogenic effect is being investigated. kidneys. It is highly flammable and Ethyl alcohol can be purchased explosive. as drinking liquor or as denatured al­ Tolulene (Toluol, Methylbenzene, Phenyl­ cohol, the latter being poisonous. Inhaling methane) the fumes of either gives essentially TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m. RECOMMENDED SOLVENTS the same results as drinking liquor. It TLV-STEL 150 p .p.m. The following chemicals can generally is flammable and dangerously explosive. CCFP 40° F be recommended for use. They are still Tolulene is an in-between che­ dangerous if not used correctly, but Isopropyl Alcohol (2-Propanol, Isopro­ mical. If pure, it seems to only affect there is a greater margin of safety than panol) the body with headaches, nausea, and with the others previously listed. Ven­ TLV-TWA 400 p.p.m. some loss of muscular coordination. tilation and skin protection are still TLV-STEL 500 p .p.m. However, tolulene can contain impurities mandatory precautions, as is watching Isopropyl alcohol affects the of benzene which, of course, is very out for fire and explosive situations. body in a way very similar to ethyl dangerous. It is highly flammable. It is alcohol but is twice as toxic. When dangerous whether inhaled or absorbed Acetone (2-Propanone) highly diluted with water, it is used as through the skin. It emits toxic fumes if TLV-TWA 1000 p.p.m.* rub bing alcohol. Inhaled or absorbed burned. TLV-STEL 1250 p.p.m.* through the skin, it acts as a narcotic. CCFP 1.4° F Fumes irritate eyes, nose, and throat. Xylene (Odor is detectable at concentrations It is very flammable and very dangerous TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m. between 200 and 400 p.p.m.) around heat or flame. TLV-STEL 150 p.p.m. Acetone is a widely used and CCFP 80-100° F easily available solvent and cleaner. It Methyl Alcohol (Methanol) Xylene is very much like tolu­ is very flammable and somewhat ex­ TLV-TWA 200 p.p.m. lene in symptoms and in the ability to plosive. Though very high concentra­ TLV-STEL 250 p.p.m. be contaminated with benzene. tions can cause dizziness, nausea, and CCFP 54° F It's about ti10e ... cz The Digital ~ IS the Electronic HoHest Watch mover 'Ibm M. Hyltin i·n Formerly of Texas Instruments the 224 pp . ill u s , 6 ·' 9. Sl9 95 industry

It 's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ technical guide to help you keep up with the d isital CAS-KER has 2mm-1 Omm watch revolution. Here, in this one hook, you'll find all round brilliant cuts in stock you need to know about how they work, how they're designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford to be without this handbook, written hy one of the Immediate delivery original developers of electronic watches.

Horological Time8 1'0 Box 11011 , Cincin n3li, Ohio 45211 Yes, please rush me HThe Digital ~l ec tr o nit Watch." I am enclosing 0 $21.45 (cost $19.95 plus $1.5 0 for postage ) U.S . fundsonly.l'lease allo w approximately 4 weeks for d elive r y . Price subject to change. Nam e Cas-~&rr Co. Address ------P.O. BOX 2347 Drawer A Cily ------Slale - - - - ZIP ------Cincinnati, Ohio 45201 • Phone: (513) 241-7075 Dept. BK-1

May 1981 /Horological Times 59 Methyl alcohol is also widely form) CCFP 90-115° F used and easily available. Very high TLV-TWA 350 p.p.m. Turpentine can cause lung irrita­ concentrations over long periods of time TLV-STEL 450 p.p.m. tion, eye irritation, headaches, nausea, can cause headaches and blurred vision. Flammable only in excess oxygen and even kidney damage in high concen­ However, the body appears to slowly Methyl chloroform can cause trations. Long-term effects are minimal. eliminate methanol with time. Methanol skin irritation and some anesthetic It is flammable and moderately explosive. is also absorbed through the skin as effects. Some long-term liver and kidney easily as inhaled and is flammable and changes have been seen, but they were Methyl Ethyl Keytone (2-Butanone, explosive. reversible with time. Methyl chloroform MEK) There are many other "al­ is exhaled from the body fairly easily. TLV-TWA 200 p.p.m. cohols" but these three are those likely It is virtually nonflammable. Do not TLV-STEL 300 p.p.m. to be available and used by the horologist. confuse with 1, 1, 2-Trichlorethane CCFP 35° F or Vinyl Trichloride. MEK should be preferred to Ammonia Methyl Isobutyl Keytone. Its only TLV-TWA 25 p.p.m. Methylene Chloride (Dichloromethane) effects seem to be nose and eye irrita­ 35 p.p.m. tion. It is flammable and moderately TLV-STEL TLV -TWA 200 p.p.m. * explosive. Non-flammable TLV-STEL 500 p.p.m. (Odor is detectable as low as 1 p.p.m. Nonflammable and objectionable as low as 20 p.p.m.) (Odor threshold is above 100 p.p.m.) Freon (Freon TF, etc.) As most users know, ammonia Methylene chloride is a very "Freon" is Du Pont Chemical causes irritation of the nose and eyes. popular, nonflammable paint remover Company's trademark for a large family Though very dangerous in high concen­ and plastic solvent. It can cause painful of fluorocarbon compounds. There are trations, it is easily detected and usually burns on the skin. High concentrations numerous Freons in use as refrigerants, used highly diluted to prevent such can cause headaches, giddiness, numbness, spray can propellants, cleaners, and concentration. etc. It has a long-term effect of being solvents. The horologist is most likely converted to carbon monoxide in the to come into contact with Freon-113 Benzine (Naptha, Petroleum Spirits, Rub­ body. It is this conversion to carbon (Trichlorotrifluoroethane) or Freon-TF ber Solvent) monoxide which makes the long-term as an ultrasonic cleaning solution. It can TLV-TWA 400 p.p.m. effects dangerous if care is not exercised. also be bought mixed with acetone as CCFP -18° F If heated to decomposition, it gives off Freon-TA, with ethyl alcohol as Freon­ Though extremely flammable, phosgene gas. TE or Freon T-E35, with methylene naptha has little toxic effect. It is also chloride as Freon-TMC, with isopropyl moderately explosive. Do not confuse Turpentine alcohol as Freon T-P35, or with water with benzene. TLV-TWA 100 p.p.m. and a surfacant as Freon T-WD602. 1, 1, 1-Trichloroethane (Methyl Chloro- TLV-STEL 150 p.p.m. All are nonflammable with TLV-TWA's

THE DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR MANUAL Support the 2ND EDITION

a complete manual on AWl - ELM TRUST the repair of LEDand LCD Scholarship Program watches by by LOUIS A- ZANONI Sending your old ffi19.95 This 76-page, handsomely printed and watch batteries easy-to-read version contains all of the practical information of the original plus added features, including a glossary of electronic terms and a milli ampere hour battery chart. This fully illustrated "How to do" manual covers the most fre­ to the quently encountered repairs required of both the LED and LCD watches. The information in this book is fundamental AMERICAN and pertinent to all quartz watches. FREE with order: "The Digital Watch Troubleshooting Guide" WATCHMAKERS Send check in the amount of $19.95 to: INSTITUTE Horological Times, P.0. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH45211 Name ______

Address------City /State/Zip ------

60 Horologica/ Times/May 1981 ranging from 650 p.p.m. for Freon-TMC provided copies of the Material Safety statistics were not available at press to 1000 p.p.m. Freon-TF does not have Data sheets filed with the Department time. much short-term effect on the body of Labor in 1975. Their chemicals are SUMMARY but may give some long-term cardiac a combination of soaps (sometimes The study of the effects of problems if continued exposure to high with ammonia) and flammable hydro­ chemicals on the human body is an concentrations is allowed. carbon solvents. Their chemist states ongoing process. The findings often Freon-TF dissolves all oils but that their products contain no solvents result in changing the allowable safe has almost no effect on plastics, paints, from the benzene group nor any chlori­ exposure limits. As we all know, benzene, shellac, or wire insulations. nated solvents (such as perchloroethylene, carbon tetrachloride, etc. are now known trichloroethylene, etc.). The TLV, though to be very dangerous to use. Now per­ L & R Ultrasonic Cleaner and Rinse an admitted estimate for such a mix of chloroethylene, trichloroethylene, MIBK, Solutions components, confirms his statements. and others are becoming suspect with TLV 350-500 p.p.m. These cleaners and rinses are flammable. lower exposure limits being proposed CCFP 94-ll0°F (those marked with an asterisk). For (TL V for solutions is estimated. Open Editor's note-It is reported that the safety of all involved, we must be cup test for CCFP) Zenith Manufacturing Co. also produces aware of these changes and revise our L & R Manufacturing Co. has cleaning and rinsing solutions, but precise shop habits accordingly. frCIB

THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER (Continued from page 41) eters for trial, there is no record that and repaired their timepieces. After any were submitted and/or purchased. satisfying this thirst for knowledge, he Sammos vehemently expressed a desire Undoubtedly, Kline's contribution to returned home. to be free of this albatross. He found this era of chronometer making lay in He not only enjoyed his work that dissolving a partnership was a dis­ the area of repairing and rating chronom­ and travels, but his inquisitive mind tasteful and difficult undertaking. How­ eters. drove him to investigate other horological ever, an agreement was finally reached, Shortly after Mr. Dillon's un­ challenges, primarily the chronometer. an auction was held, and fortunately timely death, Mr. Kline chose to close Mr. Laine's chronometer-making experi­ for Mr. Sammos, he recouped his initial out his business. After working for ences developed when he journeyed to investment. several different firms in the New York St. Petersburg, where he worked for the Kline then became the sole area, Kline was employed by the newly famous Paul Bure and Augusta Ericson, proprietor of the shop, and the business formed United States Watch Company repairing chronometers for the Russian became known as Kline and Company. in Marion, New Jersey, as a balance Navy. Shortly thereafter, Kline and Dillon maker. At the conclusion of the Russian again became partners, and the firm was MAX KUMER COMPANY, 804 revolution, he returned to Finland, but known as Kline and Dillon. However, First Avenue, Exchange Building, 812 not for long. His wanderlust brought the partnership did not remain in force First Avenue, Seattle, Washington. This him to Montreal, Canada in 1924. In for any length of time, for Mr. Dillon firm was founded in 1919 and known 1930, he made his way to New York died suddenly while working at his primarily as a manufacturer and importer City, where he found employment with bench. of nautical and surveying instruments. Tiffany and Company. In the Fall of 1861, Kline wrote They were agents for the Ritchie and Laine's chronometer is unique the Navy requesting information re­ Baker compasses and the famous Kelvin in that it is larger than the standard garding trial numbers and prices paid compass, binnacles, and sounding equip­ 56-hour chronometer. The plates are for accepted instruments. Superintendent ment. However, they repaired and rated made of white metal, artistically damas­ Gilliss provided the requested informa­ chronometers, most of this work being keened, while the engraving is embel­ tion in two separate letters. In his Decem­ done for the merchant marine services. lished with gold. It has 17 jewels, all ber 13, 1861 letter, he said, " ... until In 1941, they notified the Naval Ob­ of which are set in 14-karat gold settings. recently, all chronometers were required servatory that they had chronometers The balance is bimetallic with to remain one year at the Observatory for sale, none of which were signed by round compensating weights and is a and to perform within a certain limit them, but rather all being signed by trifle heavier than those usually found (8 seconds) before being purchased for American and English makers. in chronometers. The teeth of the escape the Navy. The same rule will be returned LAINE, FRANK, Lindenhurst, wheel are cut on the radical which he to on the restoration of peace." Long Island. Mr. Laine is not known rationalized would give him better motion Gilliss in his December 20th for producing any quantity of chronom­ with a weaker mainspring. It is difficult letter stated, " ... a price of $225.00 eters, although he certainly had the to follow his rationale, for whatever the is being paid for all instruments which training and skill to do so. However, he gain may be, it would be counterpro­ have performed satisfactorily. If you will did construct a beautiful instrument by ductive as far as having the escapement send in the daily comparison and rates his own hands which I deem worth men­ functioning safely and properly. The of your best instruments, they will be tioning. hairspring is helical, and the stud is examined, and if the performance has Mr. Laine was born in Helsing­ fitted to the side of the balance bridge. been satisfactory, they will be next in fors, Finland. His father was a watch­ All of the steel parts are finished order for purchase." maker, and since it was customary for beautifully. The dial is triple sunk, silver There is little evidence that male members of the family to be trained satin finished, and hard enameled, with Kline produced any chronometers. This in the family craft, Frank was taught Arabic numerals. The bowl is made of writer has a chronometer, number 583, watchmaking by his father. Frank was a special alloy, giving it a very rich gold signed Kline and Company, New York, captivated by these complex devices, color, and it is mounted in a gimbal of which is very similar to those of Charles and to enhance his skills, he chose to the same metal. The box is mahogany Frodsham. Just inside the chapter ring, seek training elsewhere. Therefore, in his inlaid with ebony, boxwood, maple, and near the seconds orbit, is engraved, late teens, he left home, first traveling kingwood. Over 2,000 pieces were used "re-sprung by Frodsham and Keen, to Denmark, then to Germany and on to create the geometric matrix. Liverpool, 1884." Even though the to Switzerland. In each of these countries Next month, we will continue Naval Observatory informed Kline that he spent some time working and learning with the careers of Low, Meeks, Monroe, they were willing to accept his chronom- how these countries' craftsmen made Riggs, Stewart, and others. UCill

May 1981/Horological Times 61 News in the Trade

Swiss Say, "MECHANICAL WATCHES ON THE REBOUND"

In recent years, Swiss industry mutable character. Here is where statistics have consistently shown the beauty of the traditional that to every rise in electronic mechanical movement can fully watch exports, there corresponds flower in glittering, engraved and a decline in the shipments of openworked skeleton movements, mechanical timepieces. However, and repeater chimes or perpetual the figures for January 1981 calendars. Among the most news­ signal a sharp upswing: as ex­ worthy items being presented this pected, quartz watch exports year are: grew handsomely (by 43.7%) and - a model whose extra-thin move­ so did mechanical watches-by no ment is reversed in the case to less than 18%. show off its "living" organs­ According to a spokesman balance wheel, geartrain, barrel­ for the Swiss watch industry, here facing the front instead there are a number of reasons of the back of the case. for this surprising development: - a pocket watch with a dial on market resistance to electronic either face; the main dial timepieces in various countries, shows the time "sectorially." and sales were held. New pro­ Corporation of Swiss Horological the proven reliability of a quasi­ - a skeleton-type wristwatch with grams were developed, such as Industries Ltd.) and the Board perfect technology, the advantages a movement which seems sus­ worldwide sales offering more of Directors of SSIH (Societe of a self-generating power system pended inside a totally trans­ personal contact, and extended Suisse Pour L'lndustrie Horlogere and, last but not least, a smooth parent case, absolutely water­ exhibition of products. SA) have entrusted their respec­ efficient servicing system with a resistant to 50 m. Pictured (left to right) are: tive general managements with century's experience. However, a - a pocket watch with a separate David Romanok, controller; Paul the task of examining all oppor­ subjective factor also seems to be display of every time division; MacKay, new products manager; tunities for profitable future playing a role: realization of the one each for the hours, the Frances Horowitz, office manager; collaboration. The independence value a "living" possession has minutes, and the seconds. Robin Platt, international sales of the brands will be maintained. for some people. manager; Rocky Frack, Asian Reflecting this trend, it representative; Lenny Shapiro, should come as no surprise that chemical division manager; James NEW APPOINTMENTS mechanical time is rebounding L&R REPORTS ON Lazarus, President; Kurt Sittig, ANNOUNCED AT SEIKO vigorously at the Basle Fair. RECENT INTERNATIONAL export coordinator; Rita Tybur­ The following new executive ap­ There are more selfwinding models SALES MEETING ski, export manager; Jules Alle­ pointments at Seiko Time Cor­ coming on the market, and newly James J. Lazarus, President of mand, European sales manager; poration have been announced by designed mechanical calibers, in­ L&R Manufacturing Company, Jacques Zeitlin, Belgium repre­ Robert Pliskin, President. sentative; Jose Penichet, produc­ cluding a 6% - 8" and an 11 Y:!' a major worldwide manufacturer Melvin S. Fishman has been tion manager; and Tom Lange, construction with center seconds of ultrasonic cleaning systems and promoted to Vice-President, Fi­ technical director. and day-date calendar, are being chemicals, states that the recent, nance. Prior to Seiko, he had introduced. These items are de­ three-day intensive meeting be­ been corporate controller at Lane signed to meet rising world de· tween all sales divisions proved Bryant, Inc., New York. He mand for the standard-quality to be highly rewarding. The began his accounting career with mechanical wristwatch, the Swiss meeting was held at the Cor­ ASUAG & SSI H MOVE Coopers & Lybrand certified pub­ contend. porate Offices in Kearny, New TO COLLABORATE lic accountants. Mr. Fishman is Nevertheless, it is at the Jersey on February 10-12. In order to strengthen the posi­ a member of the American high end of the market-where Extremely detailed discus­ tion of an important branch of Institute of CPA's and New York quality carries far more weight sions regarding the international the Swiss watch industry, the State Society of CPA's. A graduate than quantity-that mechanical markets, new product develop­ Committee of the Board of of the University of Michigan watches continue to express im· ment, advertising, corporate image Directors of ASUAG (General with BBA and MBA degrees, he

62 Horological Times/May 1981 is a resident of Port Washington, teries. The ten-year agreement become a well -known figure in (February 2) at Paris Junior New York. also includes the technical col­ trade circles during his 20 years College, Paris, Texas in the col­ Stuart Zuckerman has been laboration between the two com­ of involvement with the battery lege's horology department. About promoted to general manager of panies. business. He will handle distribu­ 25 persons including the college merchandising. Mr. Zuckerman, tion of Varta watch, photo, faculty, students, and area watch­ who joined the company in 1974, hearing aid, computer stand-by, makers gathered to learn about had been merchandising manager PULSAR NAMES calculator, industrial and general the latest in quartz movements. for the past two years. His re­ MANAGER OF INCENTIVE consumer batteries throughout PJC has programs in horology sponsibilities-including product AND MILITARY SALES Canada. (watch repair), jewelry repair planning, purchasing, and inven­ James W. Keenan has joined and stonesetting, and gemology. tory control of all product Pulsar Time, Inc. as incentive lines-have expanded rapidly, re­ and military sales manager, it flecting the accelerating popularity has been announced by Authur of Seiko's product lines. A J. Cohen, vice-president of sales resident of Staten Island, Mr. and marketing. Zuckerman received a BA degree from CCNY. Hal Wilensky, who joined the company 2% years ago, has been promoted to general manager of distributor watch sales. He will be responsible for watch sales through Seiko 's 17 regional distributors who serve more than 18,000 retail jewelers and depart­ JA STARTS PLANS FOR ment stores nationally. He was JULY SHOW IN NEW YORK NATIONAL CALCULATOR Plans are well underway for formerly manager for distributor AND WATCH OPERATIONS watch sales. Prior to joining Jewelers of America's 1981 July GOING TO NOVUS New York International Jewelry Seiko Time Corporation, Mr. National Semiconductor Corpora­ Wilensky was sales manager at Trade Show & Convention, which tion has announced that it has will take place starting Saturday, Eisenstadt, a major diamond and signed an agreement, subject to jewelry wholesaler servicing the Mr. Keenan, formerly sales July 25 through Wednesday, account executive with Black & closing May 4, 1981, to sell July 29, at the Sheraton Centre reta'il jeweler, from 1976-78, all the assets of its calculator and and sales manager for Lenox Decker Inc., in charge of in­ and New York Hilton Hotels. centive and military sales for watch operations to Novus Elec­ In the words of JA Chair­ Candles from 1972-76. A grad­ tronics Corporation, a new cor­ uate of the University of Vermont, the western U.S., will have man Michael D. Roman, "When national sales responsibilities in poration formed on behalf of a you consider the fact that more where he received a BS degree, joint venture, consisting of a he resides in Katonah, New Pulsar's rapidly-growing incentive than 1,100 exhibitors display the and military sales program. group headed by Sam Nassi. York. newest jewelry store products, A native of Minneapolis, Novus plans to continue mar­ designs, and services from all over Keenan holds a ElA degree from keting these products under the the world-more than at any the University of Minnesota. He NSC brand name. Full warranty other jewelry trade show in the RAY-0-VAC AND is a resident of Hohokus, New service will be continued. country-you can understand why MATSUSHITA ANNOUNCE Jersey. Charles E. Sporck, presi­ more than 18,000 jewelry buyers LITHIUM AGREEMENT dent and ch ief executive officer from every state in the nation Ray-0-Vac Corporation of the of National Semiconductor said, and from overseas flock to JA's U.S . and Matsushita Electric In­ VARTA NAMES "This divestiture is in accor­ New York Show." dustrial Company of Japan have CANADIAN DISTRIBUTOR dance with our strategic plan In addition to the exhibits, reached an agreement whereby Varta Batteries, Inc. of Elms­ to focus on semiconductors and other elements of the July Show Matsushita Electric grants license ford, New York, has named on digital systems where our add to its importance. on its high-energy "Lithium Bat­ the BD D Power Corporation of semiconductor capabilities pro­ "With so much change tery" patents and know-how to Downsview, Ontario as Canadian vide us an advantage." facing our industry," Roman Ray -0-Vac Corporation. distributor of Varta batteries. continues, "jewelers need infor­ Under the terms of this A world leader in research, mation that is current and per­ agreement, Ray -0-Vac Corpora­ development, manufacturing, and WOSIC SEMINAR AT tinent. Our two-day convention tion is granted a non-exclusive sale of batteries, Varta has found PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE will cover topics and issues that license to manufacture, use, and a growing demand for its product Jacques Reymond of the Watch­ affect our entire industry, fea ­ sell "Lithium Batteries" produced line in Canada. makers of Switzerland Informa­ turing industry leaders and ex­ under the Matsushita patents on Kasey Bakowsky, President tion Center in New York pre­ perts who share their knowledge carbon monofluoride lithium bat- of BD D Power Corporation, has sented a technical seminar recently and offer their advice ."

May 1981 /Horological Times 63 New Products and Literature

COMPLETE SCALE LISTING AVAILABLE FROM SWEST

Swest, Inc. announces publication FREE CROSS-REFERENCE of a brochure giving pictures, GUIDE FOR CALCULATOR descriptions and prices of the BATTERIES extensive line of Swest scales A cross-reference guide for cal­ and scaleweights for weighing culator batteries is now available precious metals, stones and invest­ from VARTA Batteries, Inc. ment compounds. The pamphlet lists cal­ Included in the brochure cu·lator batteries by application are scales costing less than $10 (LCD or LED), type, voltage, to one costing over $3,000; mAh capacity and dimensions electronic digital scales and bal­ as well as standard cross-reference ance scales; troy, metric and carat type numbers. scales and scaleweights; and weight VA RT A's guide is available conversion tables. free from VA RT A distributors The brochure is FREE or by calling or writing, VA RT A on request. Contact Swest, Inc., Batteries, Inc., 85 Executive Blvd., 10803 Composite Dr., Dallas TX Elsmford, NY 10523. Phone: 75220; or 1725 Victory Blvd., (914) 592-2500. Ask for the Glendale CA 91201. VA RT A Calculator Battery Cross~ reference Guide.

REPAIRING QUARTZ LCD procedures for 16 new inter­ polished edges. The Lucerne has a AND ANALOG WATCHES: national calibers and modules. silvered line-finished face with DIAMOND SUBSTITUTES VOLUME Ill "Repairing Quartz LCD Roman numerals, and the Geneva SET FROM GEM In electronic time, change is and Analog Watches, Vol. Ill" a brass line-finished face and an INSTRUMENTS CORP. extremely fast-paced, and parallel is distributed in the U.S. through integral alarm. Gem Instruments Corporation, growth is taking place in market the Watchmakers of Switzerland The Boston Clock division wholly owned subsidiary of the demand for electronic timepieces. Information Centre, 608 Fifth of Chelsea has been producing Gemological Institute of America, When quartz watches and Ave., New York, NY 10020. quality timepieces since 1880. offers a unique Diamond Sub­ solid-state digitals were first intro­ For further information, contact stitutes Set. duced, it was thought that the the Chelsea Clock Company, Inc., The set includes seven only servicing tasks for watch 284 Everett Ave., Chelsea, MA major diamond simulants, all repairers would be changing either JEWELERS SERIES 02150. synthetic; Cubic Zirconia, GGG, the battery or the entire module. CLOCKS FROM BOSTON Strontium Titanate, YAG, Syn­ However, this has not been the The Jewelers Series is the name thetic Spinel, Synthetic Sapphire, case, and retail jewelers and of the new family of brass cased and Synthetic Rutile. The stones repairers want not only to be quartz clocks that has been are approximately 1 carat diamond able to inform and advise their introduced by Boston Clock, a size, brilliant cut, and displayed customers about purchases, but division of Chelsea Clock Com­ on a tray in a small, easy-to­ provide better and faster service pany. carry case-featuring a locking and maintenance of electronic The clocks are ideal as clasp. Weights of each stone, timepieces. gifts for the home or office and together with identification in­ These considerations have are priced at or under $300 formation, are included with each led us to prepare volume IIi each. They are presented in set. of our handbook on quartz watch attractive gift boxes. GEM Diamond Substitutes repair. As with the first two Two models are available are excellent for display purposes, volumes, volume Ill contains immediately, both featuring a and the slotted tray is ideal for complete repair and servicing heavy brass case with hand- showing customers what simu-

64 Horological Times/May 1981 lants look like in comparison (right) features gold-tone case and with diamonds. The tray lifts "brick" patterned strap. Model out of the case and may be used No. 44-9342-80 has a retail with the Gemolite for stone price of $225. examinations. The set is out­ For more information, con­ standing for training store per­ tact Citizen Watch Company of sonnel by demonstrating how the America, Inc., (BOO) 526-6257. appearance and properties of diamonds differ from their com· mon simulants. For further information about the GEM Diamond Sub· stitutes Set, write Gem Instru­ ments Corporation, P.O. Box 214 7, Santa Monica, California, 90406.

most recent in Pulsar's compre­ battery pack. In addition, K­ hensive point-of-sale program for Tron's automatic variable resolu­ the jewelry trade-is currently tion (A VR), offers accuracy, available as individual elements flexibility and cost efficiency­ or as a complete package. It you would have to buy three ACCUTRON MEDALLION can be ordered from Pulsar's conventional fixed resolution DIAL WATCHES local sales representative. scales to achieve the precision "Alert jewelers can obtain ad­ weighing range of just one K-Tron ditional business in their com­ digital scale. The DS-1-T trade munities," says Bernard Dwortzan, ATTRACTIVE NEW BROCHURE AVAILABLE scale is available in four capacities Director of Bulova's Presentation PULSAR QUARTZ FOR K-TRON'S NEW DS-1-T in each of the following readouts and Incentive Division, "by selling DISPLAY ELECTRONIC SCALE to suit all silver applications: larger companies Medallion Dial An attractive Pulsar Quartz "LC K-Tron Arizona, Inc. has just pennyweight, troy ounce, metric, Watches for their award pro­ Digital Watch Center" display published a brochure describing or avoirdupois. To obtain a grams." (which can be utilized as a window their DS-1-T series: the first brochure, write or call: K-Tron Great names in American or back-of-counter display) is portable electronic scales that Arizona, Inc., 14433 N. 73rd industry, such as General Motors, one of the many new Pulsar comply with U.S. HB44 and St., Scottsdale, AZ 85260; (602) Anheuser-Busch, Texaco, Equi­ brand point-of-sale display rna· California specifications for direct 991-0990. terials available to the jewelry sales applications. The scale de­ table Life and many others, have trade. livers laboratory accuracy in rug­ chosen such watches to recog­ This Pulsar Quartz LC ged conditions, beneficial to silver TIMEPIECES FOR THE nize outstanding service or to Digital Promotion Package con· refiners, silver reclaimers of elec­ GRADUATE: STYLISH reward exceptional achievement. tains the following elements: A tronic parts and photographic YET TRADITIONAL Interested jewelers should laminated display card featuring film, silversmiths and casters, The school year is winding down. contact their sales representative a photograph of four Pulsar plating industries, and all silver When your customers come in or Mr. B. Dwortzan directly: Quartz LCD models: UPOOBS dealers who require accurate and looking for a graduation gift, (212) 335-6000. w=m (Ladies' Alarm), KS003 (Men's dependable weighing performance. why not suggest a traditional Alarm Chronograph), KS001 K-Tron's patented digital timepiece with contemporary (Men's Alarm Chronograph). and mass transducer (DMT) measures flair? JZ001 (Men's Calculator Alarm), mass rather than force, freeing Shown here are two new measuring 8" x 7"; a black the scale from the problems that offerings from Citizen Watch plastic "Pulsar Quartz" brand sign usually plague conventional force Company's collection of classically with logo in raised letters and measuring load cells. The scale styled men's analog watches. From silver color trim with a slot in is insensitive to ground-based vi­ Citizen's ultra-thin 790 series: the rear for a display card (of bration, temperature change, and (left) a gold-tone rectangular dimensions: 6Y:!' x 3" x 1Y:!' off-level conditions. The new analog with date feature and high); and four "P" shaped watch DS-1-T trade scale also offers genuine leather strap. Model No. holders to highlight men's and portability, instant turn-on, and 43-4060-80 has a retail price of ladies' models. The display-the availability of a rechargeable $350. Citizen day/date analog

May 1981 /Horological Times 65 Classified Ads

PULSAR WATCH REPAIRS. Complete repairs on all L.E.D. PULSARS except calculators. Regulations and Rates Prompt service. Leo G. Kozlowski, 55 E. Washington Street, Chicago; IL 60602. 312· Ads are payable in advance $.35 per word, $.45 per word in bold type. 236-8052. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confiden· Help Wanted tial ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. Trade shop requires experienced watchmaker. Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. (513) 661-3838 Full or part time. Send resume to G & T Inc., 317 Wall Street, Las Vegas, NV 89102.

SALESPERSON: A fme well-established jewelry and watelunaterials wholesaler is looking for Coffmans Digital Watch Repair. LED and LCD, good salesmen to cover the States of North Tradesman wholesale/retail, fast service. 4343 Kalamazoo Carolina, South Carolina Georgia, Alabama, S.E., Grand Rapids, Michigan. 616-455-3690. Florida, Mississippi, Tennessee, Arkansas, fowa , WHEELS, Pi nions, ba.nels or whatever, re­ Missouri, Wisconsin, Neb.raska, Kansas, Okla­ paired or made new. Repivot arbors: Parts homa, and Texas. We offer an excellent com­ WATCH REPIVOTING, WHEEL and PINION pensation program benefits, and an oppor­ made to oider. Send sample for free estimate. CUTTING expertly done by EUROPEAN No watch parts. Ken Le¥ebeJ'g, Ken-Way Inc., tunity to succeed. Would prefer watchmaterial WATCHMAKER with diploma from GLAS­ experience, but not necessazy . Aggressive and 19 W 672 Army Trail, P.O. Box 219, Addisqn, HUTTE $15 .00 and up. Specializing in Re· Dlinois 60101. knowledge.able man or woman. We are building PEATERS, CHRONOMETERS, TURBILLONS, for the future. Please reply to: Horological KARRUSELS, watches with PERPETUAL Times, Dept. HW301, P.O. Box 11011, Cin­ CALENDAR, UNUSUAL ESCAPEMENTS, etc. Oock repair material and tools. Manufacture of cinnati, OH 45211. I can make any part for any watch; it is just clock springs, dials, escape wheels, verge kits, weights, all types of brass and steel stock and a matter of economics. Send SASE for FREE price list. FREE estimate given on your watch. custom made parts. Catalog postpaid $2.00; PHILIP PONIZ (NAWCC, AWl, MBHI), 1207 Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, Ohio Scrub Oak Circle, Boulder CO 80303. 303- Situations Wanted 44201. (216) 947-2268. 494-9666. British trained young American horologist specializing in antiquarian horology seeks CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING Pearl and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast Fast Service-Write for free brochure and employment in this field commencing in the service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, Fall of 1981. This uniquely talented craftsman price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes St., hving, 1279 Inglis Ave., Columbus, Ohio 43212. TX 75060. •vill consider any opportunity that can make use of his specialized skills and training. Con­ tact: Coleman Fund Committee, c/o Horological STOP WATCH REP AIR. Heuer factory trained CLVCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, Times, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, specialist. All brands repaired. Bill Albrecht, repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J. C. OH 45211. P.O. Box 465, Springfield, NJ 07081. 201- Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMBHI, 1039 Rt. 233-8290. 163, Oakdale, CT 06370. WATCHMAKER, CLOCKMAKER: A recent graduate with an Associate Degree in Applied We repair early WATCHMAKERS ULTRA­ TRADE WATCH REPAIR. Guaranteed quality Science in Horology and one year's experience SONIC cleaners (WT), and related equipment. work. Two watchmakers-Certified Master and in a retail repair shop seeks position in the Sent to: Bruce, S Electronic Shop, 983 South Swiss trained. Send SASE for price list of our Southwest. For information, contact Roy Quince Road, Walnutport, PA 18088. (215) fast service. The Regulator Time Company, Burkey, 25% Pierpont St., Petersburg, WV 767-1413. 121 South Third Street, Manhattan, KS 66502. 26847. (913) 776-6977. DIAL REFINISHING, CRYSTAL FITTING & WATCH REPAIR. 48-hour services on WATCH REPAIR FOR THE TRADE: AC­ Dial Refmishing & Crystal Fitting. Finest CUTRON, STEP-MOTOR QUARTZ, DIGITAL Wanted To Buy quality. Quantity works welcome. Send your ANALOG & MECHANICAL. . The Watch­ works to: Kirk Dial & Crystal Co., 625-4th Repair Shop, 2616 Kendall Ave., Madison, & Pike Bldg., Seattle, WA 98101. WI 53705. 1-608-231-3606. $100.00/Day: Buying scrap gold. Write: Harland, 1312-Z H-st , Eureka, California 95501. DIGITAL WATCH REPAIR SPECIALIST, Restoration of watches and antique clocks; LED and LCD. Tuxedo Electric, Tuxedo repeater, chronometer, gear and pinon cutting. Square, Tuxedo NY 10987. Phone: (914) Will take repair for store looking for quality 351-5678. work. Jean Fischer, 39-20 Greenpoint Ave., IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, Sunnyside, NY 11104. Platinum, any form! Jewelry scrap, filings, Superior Tweezer Resharpening. $2.50 each, gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar cash including return first class postage. Minimum of offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. three tweezers. Advance payment required. 'A' QUALITY SWISS SPRING BARS. WRITE Ship insured/registered mail to: American Harvey C. Watkins, CMW, P.O. Box 1738, FOR FREE SAMPLES. P.O. Box 774, GREEN­ Metals Co., St. Andrews Branch, P.O. Box 1204 West Cason Street, Plant City, FL 33566. VILLE, MS 38701. 30009H, Charleston, SC 29407.

66 Horological Times/May 1981 STERLING FLATWARE STOCKS-new or ESEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, For Sale-Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. Pittsburgh, 1955. Chronograph repairing is ers, Vibrograf Timers. Factory rebuilt. All Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap, made easy by step-by-step procedure. Each machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. small step of removing and replacing each part available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2300 Henderson and making adjustments is clearly illustrated. Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert Mill Rd.," N.E. Suite 318, Atlanta, Georgia No concentrated study is necessary. $200.00. Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ 30345. Phone 404/938-0744. Write EOG, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH mond Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113. 45211. Territory: Southern Indiana, Kentucky, Michi­ gan, Ohio, Tennessee, and West Virginia. IMMEDIATE CASH PAID!! Old Mine and Old European cut diamonds. Especially needed: Watchmaker's shop set-up, bench, Vibrograf Stones over 1 carat. Ship with phone number B100 timing machine, Watchmaster Ultrasonic WELL ESTABLISHED WATCH & CLOCK for highest offer, or call Mr. Neff, (404) 938- cleaning machine, Accutron service set, Bulova REPAIR & RETAIL CLOCK SALES BUSINESS ring · sizing machine, 2 large systems of glass 0744. W. F. N. Enterprises, Inc., HT, 2300 We do trade and retail work. All modern and plastic crystals, crown assortments, etc. Henderson Mill Rd., NE, Suite 318, Atlanta, equipment. Present owner (watchmaker) and Call (302) 994-7436. GA 30345. present clockmaker will continue to work for new owner. Located west coast of Florida, excellent location. Reply to Horological Times, YOUNG, ambitious and highly qualified U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ Dept. FS581, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, watchmaker wishes to start own business in PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400-DAY OH 45211. Southern California or Texas. Will relocate. ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­

Interested in becoming partner or buying TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, 1 store with low down payment. Please contact 4895 COCONINO WAY, SAN DIEGO, CA Miscellaneous Horological Times, Dept. WTB-581, P.O. Box 92117. 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Digital Watch Service Training. Zantech, Inc. offers training and instruments for servicing all American Pocket watches, movements, cases, types of digital watches. Course includes GOLD FILLED and ROLLED GOLD PLATE material and tools for sale. Write for list. Want diagnosis of watch malfunctions and repair RGP $3.50/t.o.; 1/10 10k $16/t.o.; 12k G. F. to buy watchmaJcers tools, American pocket methods, including techniques in wire bond $8. 75/t.o.; 14K G. F. $14.75/t.o.; 25 year watches, related items. Dashto Horological repairs using silver epoxy. Louis A. Zanoni, watch case $17 /t.o. Prices based on $600 Services, 5349 Basilica Circles, Virginia Beach, Zantech, Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, NJ gold. Send for schedule. CASH or CHECK. VA 23464. Phone: (804) 420-2631. 08619. (609) 586-5088. Ship to AVON METAL SERVICE, LTD. P.O. Box 17484, Milwaukee, WI 53217. (414) 351-0933. The Book You've Been Waiting For One pallet fork complete No. 2975 single roller-Straight pivot O's Elgin G267. S. Kita, THE BEST OF 1006 First St., Napa, California 94558. J.E. COLEMAN: I For Sale CLOCKMAKER I For more than 28 years, Jess Coleman helped working horologists solve I their day by day technical problems in clock repairing by answering I QUARTZ BATTERY CLOCK MOVEMENTS: and analyzing their questions in his column "Clockwise & Otherwise." I Regular or Mini; $7.95 each, 3 for $22.65, This feature appeared monthly in the pages of American Horologist I 6 for $42.90 .. Hands included. $2.00 handling. & Jeweler magazine. I CALDAK TIME, Box 3181, Camarillo, CA Since the death of Coleman, many clockmakers have I 9301Q . I felt the void created by the lack of personal attention which I Coleman always gave to their specific, professional problems. I Now, the present generations ofhorological craftsmen can Busy watch, clock repair, and engraving business. I enjoy all the benefits of Coleman's more than 28 years of I One man store in small town just south of experience. His columns have been skillfully compiled Santa Maria, California. Clean air, healthy I into a single reference volume. I climate, relaxing life style. Very reasonable The book is designed to aid those who are I rent with lease. Priced at a low $2,800. Stock, interested in solving the everyday problems confronted I tools, and parts extra/optional. (805) 937- in practical clock repairing. This attractive, hard­ I 1218 mornings only until 1 p.m. 149 S. 1st bound, 544-page encyclopedia of horological I Street, Orcutt, California 93455. information is published by the American ~/ Watchmakers Institute Press. The price is (.PI Metal Cutting Lathes, Bench Mills, Drillpresses, just $30.00, postpaid. Unimats (accessories also), Maximats, Sherline, The unique, 9-page index and $/ Machinex, the new Maximat Super Eleven. cross-reference information, prepared ~I Lathe Catalog, $1.00. Precision tools, inch by Coleman's contemporary, Orville Ol or metric, aluminum, brass, steel, all shapes, R. Hagans, is a valuable, extra feature .l..l miniature screws, taps, drills, saws, collets. which allows today's working horologist to consult the store ~/ Tool Catalog; $1.00. Campbell Tools, 2100 .::r:"

ACRON ...... •...... 37· AWl...... 18,59,60,67 AMERICAN PERF IT CORP...... 29

BATT-TRONIC ...... 6 B.B. CRYSTAL CO .. . . . 29 MAY J. BOREL GROUP .. . . . 21 BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL . . . . 14 JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 1-3-South Carolina Retail Jewelers Associa­ 27-28-AWI Annual Meetings and Board of OF WATCHMAKING ...... •. . ... 56 tion Convention '81; St. John's Inn, Directors Meeting; Americana Hotel, Myrtle Beach , SC Cincinnati, OH CAS-KER CO ..... • Inside Front Cover, 59 CITIZEN WATCH CO . . . Outside Back COver 1-3-Rocky Mountain Jewelers of Colorado and COSMOPOLITAN WATCH .. 28 Eastern Wyoming Convention; Hilton Inn, Denver, CO EMPIRE CLOCK CO .. . . 11 ESSLINGER & CO . .. . 3,43 3-5-11 th Hawaii Gift Show; Blaisdell Center, Honolulu, HI G & G'S MIRACLE HOUSE .• . 58 JULY GEM CITY COLLEGE .. . . 36 16-19-Ganadian Jewelers Association Conven­ GFC ...... 32 tion and Conference; Empress Hotel, 4-10-Christmas in July Gift and Jewelry Show; THE GOULD CO ...... 33 Victoria, BC Dallas Market Center, Dallas, TX B. JADOW & SONS, INC .32 24-29-American Jewelry Distributors Associa­ 11-18-Pacific Northwest Jewelers Association, JEWELMONT ...... 36 tion Annual Convention; The Home­ and Washington, Alaska, and Oregon stead, Hot Springs, VA State Jewelers Association Quadrennial KANSAS CITY SCHOOL Western Jewelers Conference; M/V Sun OF WATCHMAKING .. . . • 36 28-American Watch Association Meeting; Princess, Inside Passage, British Colum­ KIENZLE . . • 45 Edgewood Country Club, River Vale, bia and Alaska KILB & CO ...... •.. .. 53 NJ 19-24-93rd California Gift Show; Los An­ L & R MANUFACTURING...... 7 geles Convention and Exhibition Center, S. LAROSE, INC ...... 14 the Los Angeles Mart, Los Angeles, CA MARSHALL-SWARTCHILD CO • . . . 34,35 MAX ELL CORP. OF AMERICA . 19-22-SJTA A1lanta Show; Hyatt Regency . • 23 MEDIA DIGITAL CORP. JUNE Hotel, Atlanta, GA . . 52 S. MIRA ... . • 45 4-6-National Conference of the Society of 25-29-JA Fall International Jewelry Trade NB SALES •. N. American Goldsmiths; University of Show & Convention; Sheraton Centre ...... 57 NEWALL ... . Kansas, Lawrence, KS & New York Hilton Hotels, New York, . .... • 49 NY PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE .•...... • 33 6-7-Sean C. (Pat) Monk speaker at the Watch­ PORTESCAP ...... •..... 5 makers Association of Pennsylvania PRECISION INSTRUMENT...... 52 Convention; Hershey, PA PRO CRAFT ...... 53 7-1 0-lnternational Investment Gemstone Con­ AUGUST ference; Century Plaza Hotel, Los SEIKO TIME CORP ... Inside Back Cover E. & J. SWIGART CO ..•.•...... •.. 4 Angeles, CA 9-11-Jewelers of America/Central USA In­ SWEST, INC ...... •.• , . , • . . . 56 ternational Jewelry Trade Show and SWISS WATCH PARTS DIST. INC ...•.. 54 20-22-World Jewelry Trade Show; Las Vegas Conference; Expocenter and Mart Plaza Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV Hotel, Chicago, IL M. TRAURING ...... •. • . 28 TWIN CITY WATCH SUPPLY CO • . 22-25-AWI Research and Education Council 15-17-Fall Pacific Jewelry Show; Century . . 54 (R EC) Instructors Meeting; Americana Plaza Hotel, Los Angeles, CA Hotel, Cincinnati, OH A. VICKSMAN ...... • . 37 VICKSMAN JEWELERS. 22-25-74th Denver Gift and Jewelry Show; . 57 26-AWI Affiliate Chapters Meeting; Americana Denver Merchandise Mart and Expo­ WATCHES UNLIMITED. .. Hotel, Cincinnati, OH sition Center, Denver, CO . 48

YOUNG, NEAL CO., INC . . • 41

X-SON ...... ••.•. . . 15

ZANTECH INC ...... 55

68 Horologica/ Times/May 1981 The best way for you to become a Seiko eXRert is to get all the facts from the Seiko experts. With the Seiko Mechanical or Quartz Technical Library.

A Seiko Technical Library has it all. Everything you need to know about repairing Seiko watches. One library for Seiko Quartz watches. One for Seiko Mechanical watches. Comprehensive, designed to put all the facts at your fingertips in a time-saving, easy-to-use format. Mechanical Technical Library Includes a watch parts catalogue and a technical guide book for current mechanical calibers, in addition to the current casing and interchangeability publications. $+5.00. Quartz Technical Library Consists of a representative sampling of five analog and five digital technical guides and corresponding parts lists, in addition to the current casing catalogue. $31.50. Seiko has a nationwide network of authorized material distributors who are fully stocked with quality Seiko parts. Which means you'll have no difficulty getting the parts you need-when you need them-to repair any model we sell. To get your complete Seiko Technical Library, just send in your check or money order for $25.00 for the Mechanical, $31.50 for the Quartz. SEIKO Sei ko Time Corporation Material Sales Department,SSS W 57th St., New York, N.Y 10019 You could spend around $3000 for a digital promotional display. display multi-function rate measuring in­ Pay $2000 or $3000 for a timer? Ridiculous. strument. Now that Citizen's CQ'r-101 is here. But it isn't necessary. Place your order with your material house The Citizen CQ'r-101 can measure not only or directly to Citizen Watch Company. For quartz watches (analog and digital) but also more information, write: Citizen Watch Co. of tuning fork and balance wheel watches with America, Inc., Service Headquarters, 12140 all the accuracy you need. W. Olym.pic Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90064. Its measuring range is from 0.01 second a Tel.: (213) 826-6541. day to ±399 seconds per day. To monitor various types of watches and clocks, you simply change the microphone. The CQT-101 is the only quartz timing in­ CIT We sell with you, not through you. strument you'll ever need. And even when it's not helping you build *Suggested retail. Price does not include shipping and mic­ rophone for mechanical watches. Sales tax additional in your service business, its attractive, profes­ California. sional look makes it in an effective in-store