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BY THOMAS OLWIG The Tao of Macau It has the world’s densest population, second highest life expectancy, longest bridge, and biggest, richest . What record will Macau shater next?

Asia’s version of Las V egas’ Strip SHUTTERSTOCK

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Macau t’s 11 a.m. when i walk past a Three hands later, I’m $128 in the hole. pack of Asian photographers and I’ve been sitting here all of two minutes. into the world’s biggest . More Welcome to Macau. than 80,000 people will ante up here GET HERE today, on a man-made island that “it’s in their blood.” these words Daily nonstop flights hail from Ifew Westerners knew existed five years ago. come from Manuel das Neves. He’s refer- LA and New York “Blackjack in back,” says the vest-donned ring to the Chinese infatuation with to . pit boss at the Venetian on Macau, a water- gambling, an industry that’s become the From the airport, pop over to Macau framed region of southeast China that’s an economic heartbeat of Macau, a former by ferry in an easy hour from Hong Kong by ferry. Portuguese outpost. “Some superstition 45 minutes. Ferries Breakfast is still being served, yet it too,” Manuel adds with a grin. “They run every 15 to 30 minutes and takes awhile to zigzag through the maze believe in the way of the dragon.” cost between $16 of baccarat tables, hordes of anxious gam- Turns out, the dragon has been good and $22. No need blers and the incessant jangling of slot for business. So good, in fact, that in 2013 to book ahead of time — just be machines — 3,000 of ’em. The Venetian alone, casino revenues soared to $45 billion, sure to book your is ’s largest building at more than cementing Macau’s title as the gambling return trip on 10 million square feet. It’s the epicenter capital of the planet. (By comparison, Las arrival if you plan on a late departure of a string of gaudy resorts and high-end Vegas brought in $6.5 billion.) from Macau. shopping centers that occupy a plot of It all started in the mid-1800s when reclaimed land less than a tenth the size of the Portuguese government legalized the STAY HERE Macau has 28,000 Manhattan. Fifteen years ago, the ground I gaming trade. Affluent Chinese would hotel rooms (there stand on now was swampland. I’m here to mix with Europeans to play Fan-, a will be 42,000 in see how this “island of chance” is the envy game played with buttons in local gam- three years), and most of them are of Vegas and Monte Carlo and, wait for it, bling parlors. But it wasn’t until at the Venetian the health-care industry. returned Macau to China in 1999 that a (right), the Eventually, I locate the blackjack floor, modern-day explosion became possible. seventh-largest building in the but I face a new hurdle once there — the In the short period since, Macau has risen world by floor area. table minimums. The cheapest available to a top-five country in per-capita gross At the Venetian is 300 Hong Kong , or $40 USD domestic product ($91,000) and to No. 2 and its casino, it’s go big or go ... per hand. Not exactly “travel writer” in the world in life expectancy (84.4 years, home — except coin. It’s no wonder that Forbes recently behind only Monaco at 89.7, according to when it comes to named Macau the world’s fourth-richest the Central Intelligence Agency). room rates. It’s not uncommon to find territory. I timidly take an end seat and As Manuel puts it, “We grow ever since.” suites for as low place chips in play. Meaning, since the swamp. as $140 a night. venetianmacao.com S GE IMA

Y E TEO/GETT E Y G CHG N S; SE S; I CORB / A EP / D

The colossal casino OR

at the Venetian is FF a favorite haunt

for gamblers from HO EX China, AL T: F

and the decked-out E L

lobby (right) will M

hold your attention RO F for hours.

AUGUST ISLANDS 71 Sure, Macau might have 11 Michelin- rated restaurants, but don’t forget the street food. Stop by the original Lord Stow’s Bakery in Village for Macau’s sweet and savory version of the Portuguese egg tart. We dare you to have just one. S GE IMA

Y K/GETT AL TTSCH GO D

Coloane Village is RE the local go-to for street food. MANF

72 ISLANDS AUGUST AUGUST ISLANDS 73 ISLAND INDUSTRY 1. , “come this way,” says joâo sales, “i want “Just what you said. Pork and cheese. coconuts More than to show you the world’s cutest public toilet.” Por-tu-guese.” His smile informs me he’s $1 billion worth of It’s just past noon in , the smaller of told the joke before. coconuts are ex- two isles that make up Macau, and it seems Later that evening, I journey a few miles ported to the U.S. alone each year. my guide’s English has failed him. south to Macau’s other island, Coloane, a The coconut palm “You see, cute, huh?” surprisingly green and charming patch is called the tree of A green shack with a roof sits under of countryside. The closest casino is back life due to its vari- ety of byproducts: a banyan tree. If there ever was a cute public in . On Coloane, there are salted fish coconut oil, meat, toilet, this might be it. I nod at Joâo, approv- stores and stilt houses above water. The juice, butter and ing his observation of the john and making it meal is traditional Portuguese seafood. shell charcoal, to name a few. clear I have no need for it right now. “In old Clams, lobster and octopus blanket the days, all your goodies go straight to the sea,” tables. A party of Chinese businessmen 2. Shetland he finishes. Well … it was cute. shout nearby. Antonio Peralta, the owner of Islands, wool For hundreds of The longer I’m in Macau, the more I the restaurant, pulls up a chair next to me. years, Shetland notice its penchant for the world-record “November 7, 1987,” he says in a thick sheep wool has books. With 30 million annual visitors — Portuguese accent, as if knowing my first been an economic staple in this Scot- in a space one-sixth the size of D.C. — it’s question. The date of Mr. Peralta’s arrival tish archipelago. considered the most densely populated in Macau from Portugal, when a one-year Known for its soft- place on Earth. In 2016, the world’s longest work contract brought him east. We sip on ness, warmth and durability, the wool bridge is scheduled to open, a structure that red wine as he proudly talks of his Chinese is traditionally hand will connect Macau to Hong Kong. Atop wife, his son studying engineering in spun and pr oduces the hangs the world’s highest Portugal and his transition from the ship - the likes of tweed and Fair Isle design. bungee jump. And just last night, I stayed in ping business into the restaurant world. the world’s biggest Sheraton. “What about the casinos?” I ask. 3. Grenada, nutmeg The transformation might be lost on Mr. Peralta smiles and sets down his Go anywhere on this Eastern tourists with dreams of jackpots, but not on glass. “Casinos been good for business,” he C aribbean island Joâo. The cranes and smog are new phenom- says, stating that he’ll serve 30,000 more MASTERFILE and see groves ena. Not exactly pure landscape, but Joâo customers this year (it was 81,000 last of nutmeg trees

TOUCH/ says that times are better. More jobs. Better year), many of which come directly from (hint: they look AL

T like apricots). Their opportunity. Kids used to study abroad and the hotels. “I receive reservation from all N E I unique flavor and stay abroad. “Now they come home.” over the world. I’m very happy and grateful.” aroma have made Grenada the second He also knows some things have been I mention the eatery’s beachside location. largest exporter in lost in this massive development shift. He Mr. Peralta smirks.

TOSTOCK; OR the world and have tries to remember the words of his father: “I prefer to go to .” O F

even landed the “‘Joâo, don’t work so hard.’ In the old days, GE famous fruit seed A / I on the national flag. it was so peaceful. We all knew each other. two nights later i’m pacing my hotel’s I used to sit in , just sit. Now casino in search of gambling redemption. 4. French Polynesia, black pearls it’s tough because tourists are everywhere.” Again, $300HK is the low game. Wallet out, These metallic, As we walk up a hill, the top 20 floors of heart rate up. This time it’s baccarat, a game sometimes mirror- the Hard Rock remain in plain view. But of chance. I push my chips toward the center. like gems are highly E; BRUCE MASTERFILE; B valuable because of another structure governs the scene: Our Empty teacups spread the half-filled INE/

S their rarity. Known Lady of Carmel, or Nossa Senhora do Carmo, table. Deep breaths ensue as rows of nickel I as the Tahitian pearl, as the sign reads, one of the many Catholic slots sing and carts zip by. Our dealer they’re primarily grown on farms and churches and Portuguese influences in pulls the final card. Next to me, a toothless

T: PHOTOCU will cost you any- the area. Out front, two priests in uniform Chinaman moans at the outcome. I look F E L where from $100 to converse on the cobblestone. Joâo waves. down, praying the dragon has changed. Macau holds adven- $10,000 depending TOP on quality. “How much Portuguese is left in Macau?” Rising from the green felt, my stack of ture — like octopus M

and rice for lunch RO I ask Joâo, wondering if the casinos are chips has doubled. Win. Suddenly, it’s just F

and standing atop SE swallowing up local culture. me and Chan Lai U, whose head is ofcially the 760-foot Macau “Tonight at dinner, I will introduce you bobbing. Without pause, I do what so few Tower. Breathe easy OCKWI L

at the Largo do C to someone.” gamblers dare to do. I pinpoint the cashier Senado Square. “What are we having?” I respond. and beeline to my 12th-floor room.

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