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CORNISH COOL A five-day road trip through Cornwall shows this rustic peninsula is redefining itself by offering luxurious touches to its colourful history, discovers Gayatri Bhaumik.

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he southwestern peninsula scallops to perfectly cooked, locally-reared beef. of Britain, Cornwall is probably best known for Early the next morning, we explore Helford River aboard the (from top) Bodmin Moor; smugglers and mining. But Hannah Molly, a traditional Cornish riverboat. This is a gorgeous the grand façade amidst its wild landscapes, spot of storied cottages and country inns hidden among vividly Fowey Halll storybookT villages, and myth-like history, lush greenery, but the real drawcard is Frenchman’s Creek, this enchanting county is experiencing the setting of Daphne du Maurier’s eponymous novel about a renaissance. Chic boutique hotels, debonair pirates. The wide swathe of water is calm and lined sumptuous fine-dining and other luxurious offerings are adding new elements to Cornwall’s contemporary charm, or so I discover on the first stop of a five-day road- trip with my friend Nivi.

An idyllic property by the Helford River, Budock Vean blends old-world charm with 21st century luxe. Our cottage-feel Signature Room boasts soothing white and grey tones, Elemis amenities, and views of the onsite golf course. At the Natural Health Spa that afternoon, the Head in Heaven, a pampering back and face massage, has me nodding off in minutes. By evening, elegant guests – the dining room, refreshingly, has a dress code – are treated to decadent three-course meals packed with local produce, from pan-seared Falmouth Bay

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Pg78 (from top) sunset over Mawgan Porth Beach from the terrace at The Scarlet; look through the lounge towards the terrace Offering dramatic cliff and ocean vistas from its at the Boskerris; tall ships in perch above Magwan Porth beach, The Scarlet is a Charlestown harbour sophisticated, sustainable adults-only hotel. Our room is an airy, hi-tech space with a private balcony perfect Pg 79 for quiet morning coffees. A must-do indulgence, (clockwise from top) the beach at St Ives; wine the spa’s clifftop hot tubs are a guest favourite; we tastings at Camel Valley; a laze here for an hour, enjoying some bubbly while guest room at The Scarlet; Jamaica Inn at dusk watching the sky turn fiery shades of pink and orange as the sun dips below the horizon. The design-savvy restaurant here offers refined dishes laced with seasonal ingredients; the fresh, zesty Cornish crab and smoked salmon salad are real standouts.

The next morning, we get a taste of traditional Cornish with untamed foliage, and while it’s bigger charm as we mosey south along the coast, stopping than one imagines, it’s still a place of at whim to explore. In the little village of St Agnes, serenity. locals sip coffee overlooking the dramatic cliff-fringed beach at Trevaunance Cove; later, we join visitors Leaving Helford, we drive north towards Fowey, stopping at the legendary harbour in Falmouth. Fringed by vast beaches and quaint Georgian houses, this was once a major British port. Today you’re more likely to see recreational yachts than cargo ships. After it stood in for Falmouth in the BBC’s hit TV show, Poldark, fans descend in masses on the nearby 18th century harbour of Charlestown. It’s certainly worth a photo op, but the real treat here is Tall Ships Creamery, considered home to some of the best ice cream in the United Kingdom. finishing with sticky toffee pudding and Pedro Ximenez port.

Kenneth Grahame was a frequent visitor Late the next morning, after a lazy breakfast and a meet-and-greet with to Fowey Hall, and it’s said the property Bramble, Fowey’ Hall’s resident pooch, we’re off to Camel Valley. Accessed by inspired Toad Hall in his children’s book, a dirt track, the winery is an unlikely proposition, but since 1989 the vineyard The Wind in the Willows. The charming has been producing award-winning wines and now counts the royals and chefs country manor-style hotel is at once stately Rick Stein and Raymond Blanc as fans. With a panoramic backdrop of lush and comfortable. The big library is cosy, vineyards and verdant hills, and few people around to spoil the experience, a not imposing; the sitting room, with its visit to Camel Valley is an oenophile’s delight. lounges and fireplace is ideal for afternoon tea; while rooms are elegant and inviting, A bottle of Cornwall’s finest in hand, we head for one of the area’s most with vintage-inspired furnishings, plenty famous destinations. A historic coaching house, Jamaica Inn is best known of creature comforts, and garden views. as the setting of another eponymous Daphne du Maurier novel. The author’s The lord-of-the-manor feeling continues stay here, in 1930, inspired her tale of a smuggler gang led by the inn’s wicked at dinner; in the elegant, adults-only landlord. It still operates as an inn, but these days the property trades off the dining room, an indulgent dinner begins legends associated with its name. The onsite Smuggler’s Museum offers great with baked camembert, before moving insight into this side of Cornish history, while bibliophiles will appreciate the on to hearty catch-of-the-day mains comprehensive Daphne du Maurier display. After a refreshing pint of Rattler’s accompanied by intriguing local wine, and Cider in the back garden, we continue through the wilds of Bodmin Moor.

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Mevagissey Harbour

wandering through the small boutiques and Tate gallery Bent on enjoying our last morning, we drive the coastal offshoot at St Ives. road south, then west, towards Penzance. The route meanders through the heart of Cornwall, past tiny St Ives has its charms, but its tourist crowds and hamlets, and its mining heritage. We stumble across impossible roads can spoil stays here, so tonight’s stop Carn Galver, a prehistoric crag that housed a small tin is the Boskerris, a small boutique hotel located five mine during the Victorian era, and Levant Mine, a Natural minutes away in Carbis Bay. Thoroughly modernised in Trust site that was also used as a Poldark filming location. 2004 by the Bassett family, this contemporary property It’s a rugged landscape where the restored steam engine is a charming bolthole done up in relaxed New England- and mine sit amidst untamed wilds and sweeping coastal inspired style. Our rooms are calming oases of whites, views. greys and blues, with White Company amenities and well-stocked tea trays. As the sun sets, guests gather Cornwall has countryside charm in spades, but it’s clear on the expansive terrace for drinks, then move to the the peninsula is redefining itself. Visitors have long been dining room for dinner. The Boskerris focuses on unfussy drawn to Cornwall’s captivating history, rural pleasures, menus bolstered by quality ingredients from small local and legends, and by striving for excellence in hospitality, producers; the result is simple, delectable fare – like the food and drinks, and leisure offerings, the area is particularly memorable pâté - in keeping with the hotel’s endearing itself to discerning visitors. laid-back feel.

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