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Evaluation of Physical and Virtual Fabric Drape Created from Objective Fabric Properties

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Evaluation of Physical and Virtual Fabric Drape Created from Objective Fabric Properties EVALUATION OF PHYSICAL AND VIRTUAL FABRIC DRAPE CREATED FROM OBJECTIVE FABRIC PROPERTIES A thesis submitted to The University of Manchester for the degree of Master of Philosophy in the Faculty of Science & Engineering 2017 ALEXANDRA KUIJPERS SCHOOL OF MATERIALS List of contents List of Figures.……………………………………………………………………………………. 5 List of tables.……………………………………………………………………..………………. 7 List of equations.…………………………………………………………………………………. 8 List of content appendices.…………………………………………………………..…………. 8 Abstract.……………………………………………………………………………………..……. 9 Declaration.……………………………………………………………………………………….. 10 Copyright statement.…………………………………………………………………………….. 11 Acknowledgement.………………………………………………………………………………. 12 1. Introduction.……………………………………………....................................….. 130 1.1. Research background.………………………………………………………………... 13 1.2. Research aims and objectives.………………………………………….…………… 16 1.2.1. Research Questions.……………………………………………………………. 160 1.2.2. Objectives and approach.………………….…………………………………… 16 1.3. Contribution of the research.……………………………………………………….… 16 1.4. Thesis layout.………………………………………………………………………….. 17 2. Cloth measurement, simulation, and suitability, literature review and theoretical framework.….………………... 19 2.1. Introduction.………………………………………..……..……………………………. 19 2.2. Cloth simulation.……………………………………………………………………….. 19 2.2.1. Current methods of virtual fabric creation.……………………………..…...… 21 2.2.2. Particle mesh modelling based on mechanical fabric properties…………… 21 2.2.3. Static simulation of cloth in commercial applications.………………..……… 22 2.3. The textile area dealing with objective fabric measurement and drape.………… 22 2.3.1. Objective measurement of static fabric drape.………………….................... 22 2.3.1.1. Measurement of two dimensional fabric drape………………………. 23 2.3.1.2. Measurement of three dimensional fabric drape………………….…. 23 2.3.1.3. Computer analysed drape measurements………………………….… 25 2.3.2. Fabric properties and instruments for objective fabric measurement.……... 27 2.3.2.1. KES.………………………………………………………………...…….. 28 2.3.2.2. FAST.……………………………………………………………...…..…. 33 2.3.2.3. Differences between KES and FAST.………………………………… 35 2.3.2.4. Recent developments.………………………………………………..… 36 2.3.3. Influence of mechanical properties on fabric drape and variation of drape.. 36 2.3.3.1. Relationships between mechanical properties and drape.……….… 36 2.3.3.2. Influence of mechanical properties on variation of drape…………... 38 2.3.3.3. Other factors influencing fabric drape.………………………………... 40 2.3.3.4. Comparison of drape and drape parameters.……………………...… 41 2.4. Virtual fabric creation based on objective fabric measurements.………………… 42 2.4.1. Suitability of fabric measurement technologies for providing input for creating virtual drape..…………………….…………………………………….. 43 2.4.2. Fabric objective properties implemented in commercial applications ….… 45 2.4.2.1. Lectra Modaris…………………………………………………….….…. 46 2.4.2.2. Optitex…………………………………………………………………….. 47 2.4.2.3. Browzwear V-sticher.……………………………………………………. 48 2.4.2.4. Browzwear V-stitcher and Optitex …………………………………….. 49 2.4.2.5. Other commercial 2D/3D CAD system …………………………..…… 49 2.5. Summary.………………………………………………….…………………………… 50 2 3. Materials and methods……………………….............................................. 51 3.1. Introduction.………………………………………………….…….………………...… 51 3.2. Materials.…………………………………………………………………..…………… 54 3.2.1. Fabrics selection and drape variation tests.……………………………….… 54 3.2.2. Data of selected fabrics.……………………….…………………………….… 57 3.2.3. Supports and fabric drape views.…………………….…………….……….… 59 3.2.3.1. Supports.……………………………………………………………….… 59 3.2.3.2. Front and drape profile view images of the fabric drape.…...…….… 61 3.2.3.3. Preparation of the drape profile view images for the surveys.……… 63 3.3. Objective measurements.…………………………………………………………..… 66 3.3.1. KES measurements.………………………………………………………….… 66 3.3.2. FAST measurements.………………………………………………………..… 67 3.3.3. Physical fabric drape coefficient.……………………………………………… 67 3.3.4. Virtual fabric drape coefficient.………………………………………………… 67 3.4. Subjective data collection.……………………………………………………………. 68 3.4.1. Introduction.……………………………………………………………………… 68 3.4.2. Organisation.……………………………………………………………….…… 69 3.4.3. Textile panel.………………………………………………………………….… 71 3.4.3.1. Structured individual interview.………………………………………… 72 3.4.3.2. Structured group evaluation.…………………………………………… 73 3.4.4. User panel.…………………………………………………………………….… 73 3.4.4.1. Online questionnaire real drape.…………………………………….… 74 3.4.4.2. Online questionnaire virtual drape.………………………………….… 75 3.5. Data analysis.………………………………………………………………………….. 76 4. Subjective assessment of fabric drape.………………………….… 78 4.1. Introduction.……………………………………………………………………………. 78 4.2. Definitions of fabric drape.………………………………………………………….… 78 4.2.1. Fabric drape categories and drape clusters.………………………………… 79 4.2.1.1. Fabric drape categories defined by the textile panels.……………… 79 4.2.1.2. Fabric drape clustered by the user panel.……………….…………… 79 4.2.1.3. Drape clusters and relationships with drape categories.…..……..… 80 4.2.1.4. Agreement user panel with fabric drape categories.………………… 82 4.2.1.5. Summary drape clusters and categories.…………………………..… 84 4.2.2. Fabric drape identifiers.………………………………………………………… 84 4.2.2.1. Fabric drape identifying key-words………………………………….… 84 4.2.2.2. Value of fabric properties to identify fabric drape.…………………… 90 4.2.2.3. Summary identifying key-words.…………………………………….… 91 4.3. Relationship between drape categories and judgement of stiffness and amount of drape……………………………………………………………………………………. 91 4.4. Preferred support and view for the assessment of fabric drape.……………….… 93 4.5. Coherence between drape categories, clusters, key-words and views……….… 97 5. Relationships between subjective drape assessment and measured fabric properties..…………………………………………......... 98 5.1. Introduction.………………………………………………………………………….… 98 5.2. Drape measurements physical fabrics.…………………………………………...… 98 5.2.1. Drape coefficient and number of nodes.………………………………….…… 98 5.2.2. Variation in drape profile and drape measurements.………………………… 100 5.3. Fabric mechanical and physical properties and correlation with drape coefficient………………………………………………………………………………. 101 5.3.1. Relationship between weight and drape coefficient …….……………..…… 102 5.3.2. KES bending properties and relationship with drape coefficient .………..… 103 5.3.3. FAST bending properties and relationship with drape coefficient ….……… 104 5.3.4. KES shear properties and relationship with drape coefficient …………...… 104 5.3.5. FAST shear properties and relationship with drape coefficient ……….…… 105 5.3.6. KES tensile properties and relationship with drape coefficient ……….…… 106 5.3.7. FAST tensile properties and relationship with drape coefficient ……...…… 106 3 5.3.8. Analyses between KES and FAST properties related to drape coefficient... 107 5.4. Relationships between drape coefficient, fabric objective properties and subjective assessment of drape..………………………………………………….… 110 5.4.1. Relationship between drape coefficient and judgement of drape.…….…… 110 5.4.2. Relationships between objective fabric properties and judgement of drape. 111 5.4.3. Relationships between drape categories, drape coefficient and objective fabric properties.…………………………………………………………….…… 111 5.5. Summary chapter 5.………………………………………………………………...… 115 6. Relationships between real and virtual drape.……………….... 116 6.1. Introduction.…………………………………………………………………………… 116 6.1.1. Differences between real and virtual environments.…………..………….… 116 6.2. Drape measurements virtual fabrics.……………………………………...………… 117 6.2.1. Relationship between real and virtual drape created with KES and FAST data……………………………………………………………………………...… 118 6.2.2. Accuracy of the drape created with KES and FAST data.………..………… 120 6.3. Relationship between drape coefficient and judgment of real and virtual drape.. 121 6.3.1. Judgement of stiffness and amount of the real and virtual drape.………… 121 6.3.2. Judgement of similarity of drape profile.……………………………………… 122 6.4. Drape coefficient versus drape profile.……………………………………………… 127 6.5. Summary chapter 6.……………………………………………………………...…… 127 7. Conclusions, limitations and future work.……………………..… 129 7.1. Conclusions.…………………………………………………………………..……….. 129 7.2. Possible research limitations.………………………………………………..………. 132 7.3. Suggested future work.……………………………………………………….……… 134 References.………………………………………………………………………...………. 138 Word count 35798 4 List of Figures Figure 1.1: Accurate and seamless interaction between key elements for virtual garment development.…………………………………….…………. 14 Figure 1.2: Physical and virtual fit.……………………………………………...……..…. 15 Figure 2.1: Framework literature review.……………………………………………….... 19 Figure 2.2: Virtual prototyping of men suits visualizing numerical fitting data.……..... 20 Figure 2.3: Particle mesh principle……………………………………………………..…. 21 Figure 2.4: Schematic diagram of the preliminary Cusick’s drape meter.…………..... 24 Figure 2.5: Drape meter principle.………………………………………………...…..….. 25 Figure 2.6: Paper ring and draped shadow.………………………………..………..….. 25 Figure 2.7: Schematic diagram of the configuration.………………………………...…. 26 Figure 2.8: Draped specimen and boundaries as identified by the software.……...… 27 Figure 2.9: Photograph of the KES-FB1 shear measurement.………………………. 30 Figure 2.10: Diagram plot of the shear strain…………………………….…….…….…… 30 Figure 2.11: Photograph of the KES-FB1 tensile measurement.………………….…… 31 Figure 2.12: Nonlinear tensile measurement.………………………………..…………… 31 Figure 2.13: KES FB2 bending measurement.………………………………………..….
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