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$2.99 VOLUME 74, NUMBER 38 SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 73 YEARS New Retail District to Be Unveiled Near the Ocean By Andrew Asch Retail Editor

When Caruso, a well-known Los Angeles developer, un- veils in a week, it will answer the question about whether the high-flying company behind the game- changing The Grove shopping mecca still has its magic touch. Palisades Village, nestled in Los Angeles’ exclusive Pa- cific Palisades neighborhood, where a large tribe of celebri- ties live, has been in the making since it was approved two years ago by the Los Angeles City Council and will be de- buting Sept. 22. It will be the first major retail development that Caruso has introduced in a decade. The company’s last big retail project was The in Glendale, Calif., which opened in 2008 with a gala event that included an ap- pearance by then- Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger. With construction currently wrapping up, Palisades Vil- ➥ Palisades Village page 8 Tariff Threat Pushes Importers to Bring In Cargo Early

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor There is nothing like the prospect of tariffs on Chinese goods to nudge importers to bring in their merchandise a little early to avoid a hefty increase in prices. Cargo-container imports this summer at the nation’s ports are setting all-time highs with retailers and importers concerned that the Trump administration could impose tar- iffs ranging from 10 percent to 25 percent on $267 billion in goods at any time. In early July, the Trump administration imposed 25 percent tariffs on $34 billion of Chinese products, and the review pe- riod for more tariffs on $16 billion of Chinese products ended July 1. “The current boom in shipping can primarily be explained by importers’ response to the U.S. trade war with China,” said Ben Hackett of Hackett Associates, who prepares the monthly Global Port Tracker report for the National Retail CELESTIAL BODIES ➥ Freight & Logistics page 3 Los Angeles designer INSIDE: Tadashi Shoji looked Where fashion gets down to business SM to the stars for his Spring/Summer 2019 collection, seen on the runway during New York 2 3 Fashion Week. For more Macerich and Simon join forces ... p. 2 New Informa/UBM Fashion hire ... p. 4 looks from the show, Style Fashion Week in NY ... p. 7 see page 6. WWIN hire for key buyers ... p. 9

FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES www.apparelnews.net

01.3,8.cover.indd 1 9/13/18 5:38 PM MADE IN AMERICA American Giant Enters the Made-in-America Denim Segment

Since its 2011 inception, Amer- by the success of their hoodie,” ican Giant has made a big impres- McCollum said. “It was a natural sion on fans of premium basics. fit to move into the denim jean.” The –based, primar- For its expansion into denim, ily e-commerce apparel company American Giant released its 218 founded by Bayard Winthrop has Straight, a five-pocket, straight- become known for its high-quality leg, relaxed design similar to its hoodies made in Los Angeles. Roughneck Pant. Through its Expanding on its made-in- partnership with Mount Vernon America message, it also offers T- Mills, American Giant was able shirts, work shirts, button-up styles, to develop a custom denim spe- crew sweaters, vests and jackets. cifically for this collection in a Now American Giant has launched deep indigo hue that the clothing a men’s denim line that was intro- brand refers to as “Maritime,” duced in its Fall 2018 campaign. with a right-hand twill. While American Giant has pre- The zip-fly, hand-sanded- viously released sweatpants, leg- finish jean is made from a fabric gings and moved closer to dungarees with Roughneck Pant—a business since 1845. As blend that is primarily a cotton-poly and, the March 2018 launch of its Roughneck five-pocket, straight- it sought to expand its of- with 2 percent spandex, it has a bit of stretch. Pant line, this is the company’s first venture leg cut in canvas— ferings, the company has For its manufacturing partner, American into blue jeans. which allowed dabbled in the premium- Giant is working with New Fashion Prod- Entering a denim market that has count- American Giant to denim segment since the ucts in Los Angeles—which opened in less players in place might seem odd for a measure customer height of the high-end 1974—building its blue-jeans line through company that has found its niche in making response. blue-jeans resurgence of the legacy of the city’s denim heritage. quality basics. But for American Giant, it Currently retail- the early 2000s. Within While American Giant also sells wom- was the perfect opportunity to create a new ing for $128, the the last five years, the en’s apparel, the denim venture is limited formula for blue jeans. Using its approach design of the Rough- textile mill has increased to men’s for the Fall 2018 collection. The to basics, the company developed the jeans neck Pant is similar its premium-denim of- company hasn’t revealed a release date but over a course of three years and was able to to a pair of jeans but ferings, now averaging has said that a women’s denim line will be reinvent its denim by focusing on a simple functions as a pair of work pants that per- 600,000 to 700,000 yards a week. made available by winter 2018. It will also formula rather than adding unnecessary fea- forms to the company’s standards for making “It’s extremely pleasing to know that we have a different fabric construction than the tures. resilient, quality products. can revive the denim-jean business in the men’s line. “We saw an oversaturated denim market,” Not only did the brand want to manufac- United States,” said Dale McCollum, vice “The fabric has already been made and a company spokesperson said. “With the ture a product made in the United States, but president of merchandising for denim. shipped,” McCollum said. “The fabric will men’s blue jeans, our aim is to streamline it sought a textile partner who could provide Mount Vernon Mills has been developing be very well received in the women’s mar- this classic product category with a single a quality fabric. American Giant found its the American Giant denim since the begin- ket. It’s a very comfortable, soft denim jean.” cut and wash.” match when it partnered with Mount Ver- ning of the apparel company’s venture into With no retail partners, American Giant To test its initial venture into the denim non Mills, located in Trion, Ga. blue jeans three years ago. The natural part- sells its men’s blue jeans for $138 through space, the company experimented with the The textile company has been in the fabric nership came from a mutual respect between its website and its only bricks-and-mortar the 173-year-old textile company and the location—a flagship based out of its down- 7-year-old clothing brand. town San Francisco headquarters. “They are a great organization as proven —Dorothy Crouch

RETAIL Macerich and Simon Join Forces to FOR SALE: Furniture, Fixtures from the Develop an LA Outlet Mall Two major shopping-center developers are The land has been vacant for some 50 Closing of Our High-End Mens & Womens getting together to construct a big outlet mall years, ever since the landfill closed. Before Retail Stores in San Diego that will be located south of Los Angeles and there was a football-stadium proposal, the not far from the new Los Angeles Rams and city of Carson had been looking at some kind Los Angeles Chargers football stadium. of shopping center to fill the space, which Large Display Table – Lt. Wood Frame w/Tinted Glass Top Macerich, the owner of the Santa Mon- cannot be used for residential purposes. Custom lt. wood frame Clothing Racks w/ glass shelving and rods ica Place shopping center in Santa Monica, Macerich currently runs two outlet cen- Calif., as well as other malls, announced on ters—Fashion Outlets of Chicago in Rose- Stands for Display Racks Sept. 11 that it had formed a 50/50 joint ven- mont, Ill., and Fashion Outlets of Niagara Tempered Glass Shelves with smooth edges (Lg. quantity) ture with mall and outlet developer Simon Falls in Niagara Falls, N.Y. It also is devel- 3 Tempered ¾” Glass Table Tops Property Group Inc., headquartered in oping an outlet center called Fashion Dis- 18 New Tec Expandable Poles w/Rods (Holds Lt. to Heavy Clothing) Indianapolis, to construct the Los Angeles trict Philadelphia with the Pennsylvania Premium Outlets. It is scheduled to open in Real Estate Trust, which also is headquar- 2 Cash Wrap & Sales Racks (Lg. with Glass Tops over Display Case the fall of 2021 in Carson, Calif., said Mac- tered in Philadelphia. Built in shelving in back for Hangers, tissue & sacks, Gift Boxes, computer erich President Ed Coppola. Simon has developed and currently man- 2 Cash Drawers “We are very pleased to partner in the ages 12 prominent outlet-mall centers in development of this one-of-a-kind outlet California, which include Desert Hills Pre- Gift Boxes (Lg, Med. Jewelry sizes) project on great, well-positioned real estate mium Outlets in Cabazon, Camarillo Pre- Acrylic, Lt. Wood & Dk. Wood Hangers (All shapes Lg. Quantity) to serve one of the nation’s most attractive mium Outlets in Camarillo, Carlsbad Pre- Printer, Computers w/ Sales Slip Machine, Phones, CC Machine markets,” Coppola said in a jointly prepared mium Outlets in Carlsbad and The Outlets Mannikins (5 Male 7 Women – Headless) statement with David Simon, Simon’s chief at Orange in Orange. executive officer and chairman. “We look One of the last new outlet centers to be Display Stands, Bar Stools, Misc. Tags forward to creating the ultimate outlet desti- developed in coastal Rolling Racks, Standard & Custom w/Glass Top nation of choice for both local residents and was The Outlets at San Clemente in 2015, Ceiling Fans international visitors to Los Angeles.” located in the seaside town of San Clem- Track Lights & Bulbs Los Angeles Premium Outlets will be ente. It was developed by the Craig Realty constructed in two phases. The first phase Group, which also runs the Steamer will encompass 400,000 square feet, and the in Commerce, Calif. Printer & Computers second phase will add 166,000 square feet to Earlier this year, Macerich embarked on the project. a novel plan to transform its Westside Pa- The site, which sits right next to the San vilion mall in Los Angeles into creative of- Contact: Patricia Straight Diego Freeway, is a former landfill on which fice space after Westside Pavilion’s anchors, [email protected] developers had proposed building a football Nordstrom and Macy’s, moved to the newly Del Mar, CA 92014 stadium for the San Diego Chargers and the renovated , located Oakland Raiders. But Inglewood won out a short drive away. in getting a new football stadium. —Andrew Asch

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 9/13/18 6:16 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT Surf Expo Avoids the Perfect Storm This Year By Hope Winsborough Contributing Writer One-pieces were a singular, notable trend at a show known for the skimpiest ORLANDO, FLA.—A year after of bikinis from exhibitors with their fin- officials closed the Surf Expo show gers on the pulse of global beach style. as Hurricane Irma fast approached, the One-pieces are stronger than ever in ju- show welcomed eager retailers from niors. throughout the Southeast and the Ca- “It’s just a trend we’re seeing,” said ribbean—many of whom have weath- Jennifer Randall, executive vice president ered more than just storms since then. at Miami-based swimwear line InGear Buyers on both coasts of South Fashions Inc. “There are just more one- Florida, for example, have had to deal pieces in the juniors market, whereas with everything from rainy holiday before they wouldn’t be caught dead in weekends to toxic algae blooms. one-pieces.” “A Red Tide on Florida’s Gulf Coast Randall credits the trend to attention- Has Been a Huge Hit to Tourism,” read getting details, including grommets, mesh the New York Times headline on the and silhouettes that are sexy yet provide second day of Surf Expo at the Orange coverage and flexibility. County Convention Center. Buyers also are sticking with trends The red algae bloom, which techni- that have been popular for the last two cally began in October, extends from years, she explained, like whipstitch de- Tampa Bay down the southwestern tailing, tassels and fringe. Destination- side of the state to Naples, cover- specific “name-drop” bathing suits remain ing about 120 miles of coastline. The strong. “They’re always popular in resort weekend before the show, officials in areas,” Randall noted. one county collected more than 17 tons Across the show floor, trends existed to of dead fish. suit every niche. Unconventional silhou- So, perhaps not surprisingly, Surf ettes featured conservative fabrications Expo attendance for the Sept. 6–8 COURTESY OF SURF EXPO like stripes, plaids and gingham while event appeared to be down from years more-conventional styles emphasized past. But buyers who were in atten- embellishments and less-traditional treat- dance were ordering with growth in mind. ments including mesh, pom-poms, tassels, whipstitch, em- “I’m sticking with appointments but building in time to broidery, keyhole and lace-up detailing. see new stuff,” said Wilda Camacho, executive buyer for Surf Caribbean buyers, many of whom are still recovering from Style Retail Management, a 24-store chain based in Holly- last year’s storms, were a strong presence. “This show is wood, Florida. “I’m doing more scouting this year.” more of an island Caribbean customer,” said InGear’s Ran- She said sales in coastal locations including Alabama, dall. “We’re seeing a lot of new accounts, too—mostly beach Mississippi and Florida’s Gulf Coast were stronger this year. shops.” “Tourism might be up over last year,” she explained. Daneanne Minto with the Bamboo Beach Club in Ocho The ability to juggle stock as seasonal traffic shifts helps. Rios, Jamaica, made time to track down new and existing re- “I’m looking [for delivery in] October/November in stores sources, she said. like Clearwater [Florida], but for Alabama and Mississippi, Katrina Herman with Moab, Utah–based Lost River we’ll look for January delivery.” Clothing saw “lots of Caribbean accounts in recovery mode Surf Expo’s vast offerings—with categories tailored not now” that were stocking up with her line’s knits and cover- just to the surf and swimwear industry but also to gift, foot- ups. wear, resort and sports fishing—meant buyers in every niche Even as rolling racks made their way toward the exit be- could track down resources that were both stylish and func- fore noon on the show’s last day, buyers took advantage of tional. the opportunity to track down new, customer-friendly brands. Many of the busiest booths featured collections where per yard for the fabric and the lining, but we take less of a Maddy Guenther, owner of Bo-Tiki in Gulfport, Fla., filmed technical fabrications dovetail with stylish details and sophis- markup. We’d rather take less per suit and have great swim- and posted a video of herself at the Dona Bela Shreds booth. ticated silhouettes. wear and be true to our clients,” Holahan said. “I’m here looking for lines for my new store,” she ex- “We’re on the bandwagon with sustainable swimwear,” Although he manufactures small lots in Sarasota, larger or- plained. After 10 years in business, she’s opening a men’s said Holahan Swimwear’s Jamie Holahan, whose 3-year-old, ders are produced in Philadelphia. store next door—to be called Bro-Tiki—looking to capitalize high-end Sarasota, Fla.–based line picked up several new ac- South Florida–based swimwear lines with production in on the growing millennial population in her Tampa Bay mar- counts. Colombia were busy, such as first-time exhibitor Awamare ket. “I can’t believe I’ve been in business this long,” she said The high-end line manufactured in the U.S. is made of sus- Waterwear, which featured long-sleeved, reversible tanks, with a laugh. Just an hour and a half away from her store, she tainable polyamide fashioned from recycled fishing nets by and Phax Swimwear, with embellished separates and one- said, Surf Expo’s like a mini-vacation. “I get to get out of town Italian textile house Carvico. “We pay an exorbitant amount pieces. and look for that next great thing.”

FREIGHT & LOGISTICS

Freight Continued from page 1 The apparel industry has taken a stand against tariffs. Most cargo-container traffic for the eight months is down 2.6 per- recently, the U.S. Fashion Industry Association in Washing- cent. Still, cargo volumes have been extremely robust this year. Federation about cargo traffic at the nation’s top retail ports. ton, D.C., joined forces with more than 80 organizations to “We are off a couple of percentage points this year com- The most recent report, released on Sept. 10, showed that voice its concern about the damaging effects of tariffs. pared to 2017, but that is after record-breaking years in 2016 cargo imports in July were up 5.6 percent to 1.9 million 20- “The fashion industry is pleased to join with a wide range and 2017,” said Phillip Sanfield, director of media relations at foot containers from the same month last year. of industries and organizations across the country to fight the the Port of Los Angeles. “We were seeing cargo owners push- While August figures are not completely tallied, they are proposed tariffs, which will amount to an additional tax on ing their orders in June and July.” expected to be up 4.8 percent year-over-year to 1.92 million consumers and limit consumer choices,” said USFIA Presi- At the neighboring Port of Long Beach, cargo-container containers. dent Julie Hughes. “The proposed 25 percent duties on con- import volumes for the first eight months this year were up 7.6 August will be the third month in a row for container im- sumer products will not achieve the stated goal of eliminat- percent over last year, totaling 2.68 million containers. When ports setting a new monthly record. ing China’s troublesome intellectual property and technology calculating inbound, outbound and empty cargo containers, Part of the reason for increased imports is that consumers transfer practices. Furthermore, the tariffs will harm Ameri- port volume was up 9.4 percent. are back shopping again now that the U.S. unemployment can consumers at all income levels—from the single parent With the threat of a tariff-trade war, importers are getting rate is at a low 3.9 percent, wages are going up slightly, the struggling to make ends meet as they purchase back-to- nervous. “I am seeing very high demand for space from Asia economy is predicted to expand 2 percent to 3 percent this school necessities for their kids to the consumer of high- to the United States, on the ocean and in the air,” said Robert year and a recently passed income tax cut is putting more end fashion manufactured in the United States and every Krieger, president of Krieger Worldwide, a customs broker- money in shoppers’ pockets. American family in between—by imposing a substantial age and freight forwarder in Los Angeles. But tariffs could dampen that consumer spending. “More regressive tax on basic household purchases of clothing, He said an apparel company bringing in basic fashions tariffs could come any day, and retailers have been bringing in footwear, back-to-school items and home goods.” should import as much as it can afford at this time. To de- record amounts of merchandise ahead of that in order to miti- While importers are pushing to bring in goods, this flurry of fer duty payments, he recommends putting merchandise in a gate the impact on their customers,” said NRF Vice President increased cargo traffic has not hit the Port of Los Angeles, one bonded warehouse or a foreign-trade zone in the Los Ange- for Supply Chain and Customs Policy Jonathan Gold. “Retail of the largest in the United States. For the first eight months, les area. “That’s what people use to do many years ago when sales are growing stronger than expected this year thanks to cargo imports were nearly flat with last year, totaling 3.15 mil- there were quotas,” he said. “When you think tariffs are going tax cuts and job creation, but tariffs are the wild card, which lion containers versus 3.17 million containers last year. to go up soon, bring your goods in right away and lock out threaten to throw away a significant portion of those benefits.” When calculating imports, exports and empty containers, your competition.”

APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01.3,8.cover.indd 3 9/13/18 5:39 PM NEWS Informa Exhibitions Appoints Mark Temple-Smith as Managing Director of Fashion Exhibitions Business Informa Exhibitions has appointed new investments and show experience. The Mark Temple-Smith to the role of managing initiative includes plans to enhance market- director of its fashion exhibitions business, ing, content, digital and customer service a segment that includes WWDMAGIC, to facilitate exhibitor and attendee connec- Coterie, Project and Project Womens. The tions, leads, opportunities to showcase prod- news follows the acquisition of UBM by ucts, growth and business success through business-to-business information services experiences in person and online. provider Informa PLC. “Fashion is a highly international, in- Included in Temple-Smith’s 20-year ca- creasingly digital and fast-changing mar- reer are roles such as chief executive officer, ket,” Temple-Smith said. “I’m looking Asia, for the Tarsus Group forward to enhancing our and managing director, brands and platforms and Asia, for the ITE Group working closely with our plc, where he expanded customers to understand the company’s Asian busi- and find solutions to their ness from a startup to some business needs and support 50 exhibitions and more their year-round marketing than 400 employees. Prior priorities.” to his new appointment, While discussing his Temple-Smith served as new position, Temple- Informa Exhibitions’ com- Smith expressed the po- mercial director, where tential for the company’s he managed new growth growth within the fashion- initiatives for Europe, the events segment. Middle East, Africa and “In taking on this role, the Americas businesses. I will be working with a “We are pleased to have Mark Temple-Smith strong team that has exten- TPC’s Fall Networking Event Mark take on this essential sive knowledge and experi- role as we focus on rolling out such an ini- ence in the areas of branding and marketing Join us for an evening of cocktails and conversation tiative so important to the fashion market- in the fashion-events space,” he said. “Our place and dedicating the right resources— fashion group serves the needs of the $1 tril- management, technology and branding—to lion global fashion industry through 21 show Thu., Sept. 27, 5:30 – 8 p.m. supporting our customers’ success,” Informa brands across seven marketplaces that cover Exhibitions Chief Executive Officer Charlie all major fashion categories, and we will con- The Chestnut Club McCurdy said in a statement. “We believe tinue to focus on strengthening our relation- the combination of Informa’s global ap- ships with the industry’s global community 1348 14th Street, Santa Monica, CA 90404 proach to B2B [business-to-business] events of brands and retailers.” marketing and our customer-first focus— Regarding the departure of former man- with UBM’s history and strength in fashion, aging director Mike Alic, the company re- particularly in the U.S. and Asia—is a pow- leased a statement saying, “Mike Alic has Register at the TPC website erful engine for growth in the fashion-events decided to step down from his position as market.” managing director to pursue new interests www.theprofessionalclub.com As managing director of Informa Exhibi- after 14 successful years of contributions tions’ fashion-exhibitions business, Temple- to the leadership and growth of Advanstar Smith will lead the company through its and UBM Fashion. Ultimately, we agree previously announced three-year plan for and support his decision.”—Dorothy Crouch Big Thanks to Our Sponsors Calendar

Sept. 15 Sept. 19 Sept. 27 FAME Première Vision California Fashion Association’s Moda Paris Nord Villepinte luncheon benefiting the Coterie Paris California Fashion Foundation Stitch @ Coterie Through Sept. 21 California Market Center Sole Commerce Fashion Theater Sourcing @ Coterie Sept. 24 Los Angeles Javits Center International Lingerie Show Through Sept. 17 Westgate Las Vegas Las Vegas Sept. 16 Through Sept. 26 Midwest Apparel Trade Show Embassy Suites Sept. 25 Deerfield, Ill. Lineapelle Through Sept. 17 Fieramilano Milan, Italy There’s more Sept. 17 Through Sept. 27 on ApparelNews.net. Texworld Paris Las Vegas Souvenir & Resort Apparel Sourcing Paris Gift Show For calendar details and contact Le Bourget Las Vegas Convention Center information, visit ApparelNews. Paris Las Vegas net/calendar. Through Sept. 20 Through Sept. 28

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POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2018 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub lished weekly except semi-weekly first theprofessionalclub.com week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, facebook.com/ twitter.com/TheProfClub and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily TheProfessionalClub reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.news.calendar.indd 4 9/13/18 5:43 PM Fashion Favors The Bold.

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tex copy.indd 1 8/16/18 5:38 PM FASHION Tadashi Shoji Shoots for the Moon at NYFW

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6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.fashion.indd 6 9/13/18 5:45 PM FASHION Los Angeles Designers on the Runway at Style Fashion Week in New York Los Angeles designers were front and center during New York Fashion Week when they showed at Style Fashion Week, a fashion and art–oriented event founded by Veronica Welch-Kerzner, whose first runway shows were held in downtown Los Angeles. Style Fashion Week has expanded around the world with events in Dubai, Miami, Los Angeles and Palm Desert, Ca- lif. With three days of runway shows held Sept. 6–8, Style Fashion Week took place at The Manhattan Center. Designers from around the world were showing their collections. Here are some looks from the

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APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.fashion.indd 7 9/13/18 5:46 PM RETAIL

Palisades Village Continued from page 1 lage spreads out over 125,000 square feet project’s development. down Pacific Palisades’ once sleepy main He gave Caruso and his company high 2018 Scholarsh commercial district. marks for their accessibility, but he conced-

For the project, Caruso knocked down a ed there’s a range of opinions on the project. couple blocks of buildings around the in- “For some, it will be the mall that destroyed tersection of Sunset Boulevard and Swarth- the quiet, small-town charm of Pacific Pali- more Avenue, erecting one- and two-story sades. To others, it will be the greatest thing structures of various architectural styles de- that ever happened,” he said. “My personal signed by architecture firm Gensler. hope is that it can bring up the other parts Rick Caruso, the of the business district to founder of Caruso, allow them to succeed.” said the new buildings He also hoped that the were intended to seam- entire neighborhood’s lessly mix with the business district would “coastal-village look” be able to embrace of the neighborhood change and grow while and create a small-town retaining the small-town vibe, which includes qualities and character a 5,600-square-foot that many consider key park, a specialty gro- to the Palisades experi- cery store, a five-screen ence. movie theater, a com- Palisades Village site on Sept. 9 One particular con- munity center and a cern of Palisades resi- three-story underground parking structure dents was traffic. Kamer said that many with 560 spaces. were worried about traffic becoming as The retail center will be anchored by the congested as it is in the nearby Brentwood Bay Theatre, a revamped version of the district, where Caruso resides. In that tony original 1940s-era theater, which has been neighborhood, there are two popular retail closed for decades. It will be operated by complexes—the Brentwood Country Mart Cinépolis Luxury Cinemas. and Brentwood Gardens. FOR RESERVATIONS AND TICKET INFORMATION: On the retail side, one high-marquee ten- Caruso was one of the first in the nation (213) 688-6288 or [email protected] ant will be Towne by Elysewalker, a new to offer open-air, lifestyle malls presented PLEASE MAKE CHECKS PAYABLE TO: concept store with casual styles for women. as an alternative to the once-dominant en- California Fashion Foundation | 444 S. Flower Street, 37th floor, Los Angeles, CA 90071 It is being developed by prominent boutique closed regional malls. The developer mixed CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED retailer Elyse Walker, who for more than a parklike ambiance and unique architecture The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) California Public Benefit Corporation Tax ID: 95-4677121 16 years has operated the influential Elyse reminiscent of Disneyland’s Main Street, 444 South Flower Street, Los Angeles, California 90071 Tel: 213 688 6288. Fax: 213 688 6290 Walker boutique across the street from the harkening back to the 1950s, when life was email: [email protected] Website: www.californiafashionassociation.org upcoming retail district. more halcyon. Famous fashion stylist and designer Ra- Due to the success of The Grove and The chel Zoe will set up a six-month-long pop- Americana at Brand, Caruso became a star up store where she will sell her collection. in developer circles and known for making brash statements about shop- ping malls. At the National Retail Fed- eration’s Big Show conven- tion in 2014, he said that malls had to change or go out of busi- ness. “I’ve come to the conclu- sion that within 10 to 15 years, the typical U.S. mall, unless completely reinvented, will be Get Inspired! seen as a historical anachro- nism that no longer meets the needs of the public, retailers or Hundreds of Stocked communities,” he said. Novelty Knits, In 2015, the NRF honored Wovens, Linings the billionaire developer with and More! a Disruptor Award, given to people shaking up the retail industry. One Roll Minimum. Palisades Village will be un-

www.cinergytextiles.com RENDERINGS COURTESY OF CARUSO veiled at a time when few malls Renderings of Palisades Village are opening in California. One Tel: 213-748-4400 new project is the City Center [email protected] Other shops include A.L.C., Anine Bing, Bishop Ranch, designed by star Italian ar- Paige, Cynthia Rowley, Vince, Zimmer- chitect Renzo Piano. It is scheduled to open man and activewear brand Carbon 38. this fall in the town of For a moderns touch to olden days, the San Ramon. village will feature an Amazon Books Despite the shuttering of many stores and Print bookstore. talk of a “retail apocalypse,” retail gurus The debut of Palisades Village has re- Deborah Weinswig, the chief executive offi- + Online ceived a range of opinions from enthusiastic cer and founder of Coresight Research, and + Archives to guarded. Michael J. Brown, a partner at A.T. Kear- Denise Mangimelli, co-owner of the ney, wrote that malls will continue to thrive. = Total Access Boca clothing boutique, anticipates the In a May research note called “The Mall project will be a great boost to the neigh- Is Not Dead,” Weinswig said that big chang- borhood. Mangimelli had a Boca store in es are on the horizon for malls, led by a shift the Palisades for 24 years but moved a few that Caruso helped pioneer. There will be miles away two years ago to Santa Monica, more park spaces, perhaps more play areas Calif. for children and a different retail mix. This year, Mangimelli moved her store Malls will increasingly become destina- back to the Pacific Palisades, believing the tion centers, Brown said. “Malls will trans- project will revive the neighborhood. “It form to being consumer-engagement spaces Get Yours Today will bring more people and restaurants to the or broad spaces where consumers can en- area,” she said, adding that she may have to gage with others and with brands while they and Save 75%! hire more salespeople. do their shopping,” he said. Call toll-free But Lou Kamer, a Pacific Palisades resi- Caruso’s lifestyle mall is a variation of (866) 207-1448 dent, was a little more wary. He campaigned this destination mall, which is continuing for and won a seat on the Pacific Palisades to reshape U.S. shopping centers, Brown Community Council to have a voice in the noted.

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 APPARELNEWS.NET

01.3,8.cover.indd 8 9/13/18 5:39 PM NEWS Clarion UX Brings Aboard Susan Milano to Manage WWIN Key-Buyer Initiatives As it expands its key-buyer program with The Key-Buyers Concierge Club will also new initiatives for its Womenswear In Nevada include expedited registration, complimentary (WWIN) trade show, Clarion UX has hired Susan lunch service, reserved seating in the event’s din- Apparel News Group Milano to manage its key accounts. ing salons and during fashion shows, and an ap- Reporting to Clarion UX Vice President of pointment system that eases the process of meet- Fashion Events Desiree Hanson, Milano will cul- ing with exhibitors. tivate relationships with WWIN’s target key-buyer “[Susan’s] extensive fashion-industry experi- audience. This group includes catalogs, boutiques, ence—spanning wholesale, retail and publishing 731945-2018 specialty chains and department stores, but as the segments—gives her a unique, 360-degree view- show expands, Milano will also look to reach out point that promises to help us take the WWIN Seventy-three years of news, to new potential attendees such as top retail ac- buyer/exhibitor customer experience to the next fashion and information

counts and buying groups. level,” Hanson explained. CEO/PUBLISHER One of Milano’s largest responsibilities will be Prior to joining Clarion UX, Milano served as TERRY MARTINEZ to manage the expansion of WWIN’s Key-Buyers the senior sales representative for Cachet Indus- EXECUTIVE EDITOR CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT Concierge Club—a VIP experience offered to pre- tries Inc.’s eveningwear division. Before working DEBORAH BELGUM EXECUTIVES RETAIL EDITOR ZENNY R. KATIGBAK JEFFERY YOUNGER screened key-account members, which was intro- with Cachet Industries Inc., she was the senior sales ANDREW ASCH CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING ASSOCIATE EDITOR duced in August 2018—and Match!, which cus- representative for Faviana International and direc- MARILOU DELA CRUZ DOROTHY CROUCH tomizes meetings matching exhibitors and buyers Susan Milano tor of sales for the Alex Apparel Group, where she PROFESSIONAL SERVICES EDITORIAL MANAGER & RESOURCE SECTION according to interest and arranges appointments oversaw annual sales of more than $53 million for JOHN IRWIN JUNE ESPINO between the parties. its women’s evening-apparel label, Alex Evenings. CONTRIBUTORS PRODUCTION MANAGER ALYSON BENDER KENDALL IN “We are thrilled to have Susan join our team,” Hanson said in a Milano’s 30-year career has also included management roles with the VOLKER CORELL statement. “We are investing in new platforms to help bring the right Jump Apparel Group, Lane Bryant and Lord & Taylor as well as JOHN ECKMIER EDITORIAL DESIGNER JOHN McCURRY JOHN FREEMAN FISH buyers together with the right exhibitors, and Susan has the skills, in- experience in publishing as the advertising director at LFP Inc. ESTEVAN RAMOS CREDIT MANAGER TIM REGAS dustry insights and enthusiastic attitude needed to ensure our success.” —Dorothy Crouch N. JAYNE SEWARD RITA O’CONNOR HOPE WINSBOROUGH NATALIE ZFAT PUBLISHED BY WEB PRODUCTION TLM PUBLISHING INC. MORGAN WESSLER APPAREL NEWS GROUP CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR Publishers of: Founder of Downtown Center Business Improvement District Is Retiring LOUISE DAMBERG California Apparel News Waterwear DIRECTOR OF SALES AND Decorated MARKETING After 20 years of leadership as the founder of the Downtown Cen- tive Vice President and Chief Operating Officer Suzanne Holley, who TERRY MARTINEZ EXECUTIVE OFFICE ter Business Improvement District (DCBID), Carol Schatz will re- joined the DCBID in 2013, will succeed Schatz as the organization’s SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE California Market Center AMY VALENCIA 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 tire on Sept. 30. president and chief executive officer. Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE (213) 627-3737 In addition to serving as a force behind legislation permitting “Having worked very closely with Carol in my time here, I am LYNNE KASCH Fax (213) 623-5707 the formation of property-based business improvement districts, intimately familiar with her vision for the district,” Holley said, ex- BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Classified Advertising Fax DANIELLA PLATT (213) 623-1515 Schatz also founded the DCBID—a plaining she will grow the organiza- MOLLY RHODES www.apparelnews.net coalition of neighborhood property tion’s use of technology and influ- SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST [email protected] owners—in 1998. She also was the encer marketing. “They [stakehold- ASHLEY KOHUT ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. president and chief executive officer ers] are in good hands. I am here for CHRIS MARTIN of the Central City Association, a the stakeholders, and my team will be RACHEL MARTINEZ downtown business-advocacy group, doing more one-on-one outreach to SALES ASSISTANT PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY from 1995 until her retirement from make sure that we are fulfilling their that organization in 2016. needs.” “It’s been a great privilege to have The team that will support Holley played a central role in planning includes DCBID Senior Vice Presi- and leading Downtown LA’s renais- dent and Director of Economic De- sance,” Schatz said. “The DCBID velopment Nick Griffin, who was also was a key factor in the downtown re- promoted and will serve as the organi- naissance and in bringing in more zation’s executive director. than $30 billion in new investment to To ease the transition, Schatz will DTLA.” serve as president emeritus and be a Through a decision made by the goodwill ambassador for downtown DCBID’s executive officers, Execu- Carol Schatz Suzanne Holley Los Angeles.—D.C.

APPARELNEWS.NET SEPTEMBER 14–20, 2018 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 9

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TRADE SHOW REPORT THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR The Big Issue of Ron Robinson at 40: A Better Economy Means New World Vision… Better Orders at the Microfibers in AB 2379 Old School Values Las Vegas Trade Shows By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor By Andrew Asch Retail Editor By Andrew Asch, Deborah Belgum and Dorothy Crouch Last month, state Assembly member Richard Bloom intro- LAS VEGAS—The conglomeration of apparel, footwear duced Assembly Bill 2379 to the California State Legislature. Ron Robinson said the late 1960s were an exhilarating and accessories trade shows, which twice a year invade this The bill would require manufacturers of clothing that comprises time to be in the retail business in Los Angeles. That year he remembered watching rock star Janis Joplin city in the middle of the desert, filled the town with thou- more than 50 percent polyester to include a label recommend- Project Womens sands of visitors from all over the world under a blistering ing consumers bypass the washing machine and handwash perform on stage, and then a few weeks later he saw her sky where the temperatures reached up to 105 degrees dur- these items instead. browsing at the Fred Segal store where he worked. Las The late 1960s and 1970s were a golden era for the Fred Curve Las Vegas ing the day. It is Bloom’s hope that spelling out these instructions will The shows’ locations, with the first events starting on lead to increased consumer awareness of the potential environ- Segal store, which launched many trends. It shaped the way Pooltradeshow Mandalay Bay Conven- Los Angeles dressed and was a pioneer in Los Angeles’Ron Rob- re- Aug. 11 and the last ending onto theAug. 16, rangedSands from Expo the and mental threats he says occur from synthetic microfiber shed- Vegas Convention Center ding. tail scene. with stops in Thebetween Venetian at the hotel and across the “Some of the [bill] advocates think that we should be mov- In 1978, Robinson started his own self-named tion Center store at the Fred Segal compound on Melrose Av- Convention Center near ing toward more draconian solutions, like banning synthetic inson freeway at the Rio All-Suites Hotel & Casino. clothing. Those would have greater consequences that don’t enue. Four decades later, Ron Robinson expanded to two Many felt visitor traffic was softer than last August, but make sense,” said the Democrat, whose district office is head- 5,600-square-foot flagships—one in Los Angeleswww.ronrobinson. and an- that was hard to determine because many shows stillstore had is lo-a quartered in Santa Monica. “We need to become more aware, other in Santa Monica, Calif. The company also runs an e-boutique at vibrant buzz of buyers makingLimited the rounds. Additions continue the research and take reasonable steps to reduce the ➥ Ron Robinson page 8 ➥ Las Vegas page 3 Assembly Bill 2379 page 3 . This year marks the 40th anniversary of Ron Robinson. WWDMAGIC Margrit Laman, whose amount of microfibers in our aquifers➥ and go where the re- com

Agenda The Collective TECHNOLOGY New Owners of American Tellason: A Rare Find The Power of RFID Apparel Set Goal to in the Denim Industry RFID may not be new, but its increasing Double Sales This Year By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor affordability is proving to be a game-changer Ever since theTellason brand was has launched been one in of San those Francisco rare clothing near- for retailers large and small. By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor Gil- ly 10 years ago, companies that only uses American raw materials for its col- By Paula Levy Contributing Writer called one of the label’s It has only been a little more than one year since lection of menswear blueCone jeans. Denim Sourcing at MAGIC acquired the intellectual-property rights of So when supplier Radio-frequency identification (RFID) technology is one dan Activewear , the decades-old Los Angeles apparel of the fastest-growing retail initiatives today. RFID consists of American Apparel cofounders last October, the sales rep asked if he was sitting Project Womens electromagnetic tags attached to objects, tickets and merchan- company that twice declared bankruptcy in a little more than down. The news was that Cone Denim was shutting down dise that contain electronically stored information, sensors and one year. its White Oak denim mill in North Carolina in a few months antennae. At its peak, American Apparel’s revenues climbed to and would no longer be able to supply Tellason with its sel- Through radio waves and hardware such as beacons for nearly $634 million in 2013 before the long descent of the vage denim. White Oak was the last U.S. supplier of selvage proximity marketing or communication sensors, the tags are company founded by Dov Charney in 1989. denim made on old wooden looms. read and emit data. These tags are not only attached to products Gildan took formal control of American Apparel in Feb- “The day they announced their closure did not surprise but also to shelving and display tables within a store and are ruary 2017 and had a little more than one month to ramp up me,” said Tony Patella, the co-owner who was called. “What SHOW TIME embedded in many luxury goods. new production and then get the label in front of wholesalers surprised me was that we were their fourth ➥largest Tellason customer page 3 If it’s August, it must be time for a dose of trade shows RFID entered the retail market in the late 1980s, primarily and consumers again. In that first year, Gildan took in $50 for all their denim, and we are not that big.” for tracking inventory. Early on, RFID hardware and tags were million in sales. This year, the goal is to double sales to $100 covering the apparel, footwear and accessories industries. cost-prohibitive for the mainstream with a price of $1 per tag million. or higher plus antennae and sensors. In 2015, the➥ RFID page market 8 Key to boosting revenues is the marketing team, which is SM ➥ American Apparel page 3 : With a buoyant economy, buyers were on the hunt for was valued at $26 billion, and innovations within the Internet of located in Los Angeles even though Gildan is headquartered INSIDE goods to fill their stores. Where fashion gets down to business

: SM 7 SM INSIDE INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business Where fashion gets down to business 5 MEDIEVAL TIMES RUNWAY READY 3 Fernando Alberto was one of several 6 8 Woodbury University’s students revealed some of the New Hudson Jeans president ... p. 2 4 designers who showed during New York 7 fashion designs they have been working on during April Retail Sales ... p. 2 New CEO at St. John Knits ... p. 4 The Tents the academic year. For more looks, see pp. 6–7. New apparel event ... p. 9 Agenda and Liberty Fairs moving ... p. 2 Fashion Week. For more looks, see page 6. Agenda names new executive ... p. 2 Trade Shows 2018 ... special pullout section Stitch @ Project Womens LA fashion business and technology ... p. 2 Bachrach stores close ... p. 3 www.apparelnews.net Revenues dip for Differential Brands ... p. 2 Gap earnings up ... p. 4 August Chow MR Magazine sold ... p. 9

Resource Guide ... p. 9 CORELL VOLKER Resource Guide ... p. 9 www.apparelnews.net www.apparelnews.net

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September 21 September 28 October 5 October 12 Cover: Fashion Cover: Textile Trends Cover: Textile Show Wrap Cover: LA Runway Technology Industry Voices: 3-D Technology Quarterly Financial Report LA Majors Coverage LA Market Wrap Industry Focus: Retail Real Estate New Lines Made in America Trims, Accessories & Branding Fiber & Fabric Lingerie Bonus Distribution Textile Trends Industry Focus: Finance Activewear/Athleisure Fashion Market Northern Calif. 10/21–23 What’s Checking Dallas Market Week 10/24–27 Textile Preview with Tech Sustainability Report Education in Focus and Resource Guide Fashion District Advertorial Finance Advertorial Trims, Accessories & Activewear/Athleisure Branding Advertorial Sustainability Advertorial Advertorial Technology Advertorial Bonus Distribution Bonus Distribution Bonus Distribution LA Majors Market 10/1–3 Brand Assembly 10/8-10 Coast Miami 10/1–2 LA Textile Show 10/3–5 Designers & Agents 10/8–10 LA Majors Market 10/1–3 Designers & Agents LA 10/8–10 LA Fashion Market 10/8–10 LA Textile Show 10/3–5 LA Fashion Market 10/8–10 Label Array 10/8–10 Designers & Agents LA 10/8–10 Label Array 10/8–10 Style Fashion Week 10/10–14 LA Fashion Market 10/8–10 Style Fashion Week 10/10–14 Art Hearts Fashion Runway 10/11–14 Label Array 10/8–10 Art Hearts Fashion Runway 10/11–14 Atlanta Apparel 10/16–20 Coast Nashville Denver Apparel & Accessory Market 10/14–16 Interfiliere 10/17–18 Atlanta Apparel 10/16–20

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