The Journal of the Association of National Park Rangers

RangerStewards for parks, visitors & each other Vol. 29, No. 4 | Fall 2013 A Public Harvest – Feast and Famine in the National Parks

RANGER • Fall 2013 u Sec1a Share your views! Do you have a comment on a particular topic featured in this issue? Or about anything related to national parks? Send your views to fordedit@ aol.com or to the address on the back cover. More reminiscing about housing Reading Leslie Spurlin’s article, “NPS housing – A look back” (Summer 2013) brought back memories of my own. My first assignment was in Canyonlands, Needles District, 1974- 79. Each district had two to four permanent employees, a large handful of long-term sea- sonals who returned year after year and often volunteered for the park in the off-season, and a few Student Conservation Association workers who rotated through every 12 weeks or so. Communication with headquarters was Preregister online at www.anpr.org. Program via the park’s two-way radio system and occa- sionally (mostly at night) by radio telephone. details are posted there, with a summary on One channel served southeastern Utah and a small part of Colorado. One AM radio station page 21. See you Oct. 27 – 31 in St. Louis. came in about an hour after dark. Prior to my arrival, I was told that housing playing. The evening ranger, someone with less consisted of trailers that “were left over from experience, came back to his trailer. He quickly the Johnstown flood.” I didn’t look up that ran over to the court and excitedly reported that reference until much later, but the trailers were the generator was out. We laughed. Everyone old: drafty and air conditioned when the wind was outside, so what was the urgency to get blew and especially in the winter; sand drifts in power back on? the corners of every window; and some doors The game went until full dark. Then four that once locked but keys had been lost years of us went down to the generator shed to Board of Directors before. Deer mice and bushy-tailed woodrats power up one of the alternates. This time, Officers none would start. After more than an hour of President Stacy Allen, SHIL were more common inside than out. President-elect Erika Jostad, SEKI The complex of seven trailers, a mainte- trying everything we could think of, someone Secretary Paula Alexander, LIBO nance shed, office trailer and “visitor center” put the measuring stick into the gravity-fed Treasurer Jamie Bertram trailer were powered by generators. You could diesel tank. It was dry. We found that there was Board Members tell which generator was running by the way plenty of diesel in the underground tank, but Education & Training Ben Walsh equipment reacted. On the Onan generator, the pump was . . . electric! About 1 o’clock in Fundraising Activities Seth Tinkham, WASO the morning we figured out a way to remove Internal Communications Jeremy Kaufman electric clocks gained as much as 25 minutes Membership Services Gannon Frain, GRBA a day and all electric motors ran fast; when the electric pump and fit the incorrectly sized Professional Issues Jessica Korhut, DENA on the Allis Chalmers generator clocks lost as hand-crank pump into the tank. We extracted Seasonal Perspectives Jason Allen, YELL about 10 gallons after an additional 45 minutes Special Concerns Amy Gilbert much as 10 minutes a day but there wasn’t any Strategic Planning Alison Steiner, SEKI perceptible difference in electric motors. On of hard labor (the hand pump kept sucking air the Cat generator, when one of the community and losing its prime). About 3 a.m. we finally Task Groups International Affairs Tony Sisto, Retired washers or dryers or the air compressor in the succeeded in priming and starting the most maintenance shop turned on, there would be reliable generator, and keeping it running long Staff a brown-out for about a minute. They would enough to get a prime on the electric pump. Membership Services Teresa Ford often go out at the most troublesome times. We had to run the generator and electric pump Ranger Magazine The community tradition was to gather for faster than normal to get ahead of the draw- Editor/Publisher Teresa Ford a volleyball game after dinner, usually about 7 down in the above-ground tank. Editorial Adviser Kendell Thompson, LIBO p.m. when it started to cool off, and everyone Oily and smelling of diesel, we agreed that Professional Ranger Section was off duty except the campfire program a search and rescue of the same duration was Administration Michelle Torok, SAGU ranger. With lights on the court we would preferable. But we never again delayed genera- Interpretation Pete Peterson, GRCA, and tor maintenance in the evening. Josh Boles, WRBR usually play until 10:30. One evening the Protection Kevin Moses, BUFF generator went out as we were in the midst Ken Mabery, Scottsbluff, Nebraska Resource Management Sue Consolo Murphy, GRTE of a particularly robust game. We continued — More correspondence on page 22 —

Sec1bt ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers “designating leadership” — to President’s Message be the professional responsibil- nother World Ranger Day has passed, ity of every NPS employee. ANGERThe Journal of the Association of National Park Rangers beckoning each of us to personally reflect This is accomplished through USNPS A RVol. 29, No. 4 Fall 2013 on the relevant, professional work that conserva- effective training, sustained Ranger (ISSN 1074-0678) is a quarterly publication of tion employees perform daily to protect natural behaviors and measurable performance. the Association of National Park Rangers, an organization and cultural resources. In their memory, and in remembrance of lost created to communicate for, about and with National It is public service work often performed comrades employed within sister public service Park Service employees of all disciplines; to promote and agencies, it behooves each of us to take the enhance the professions, spirit and mission of National under extreme environmental and in troubling Park Service employees; to support management and geopolitical conditions. proper time, before we act, to fully examine and the perpetuation of the National Park Service and the Since July 2012, at least 81 rangers, game understand the actual environment associated National Park System; and to provide a forum for profes- rangers, forest guards, wardens and facility with every work action we perform. Statistics sional enrichment. management employees have lost their lives in sadly record that serious injury and death ac- In meeting these purposes, the Association provides cidents increase the closer you are to home. The education and other training to develop and/or improve the line of duty. The numbers may be tragically the knowledge and skills of park professionals and those higher because often some line-of-duty deaths adage that “safety begins at home” and “resides interested in the stewardship of national parks; provides a fail to be adequately investigated and reported. with me” remains stubbornly pertinent. USNPS forum for discussion of common concerns of all employees; Thus, each July 31 is also a time to remember and provides information to the public. the lives and service of public stewards lost The membership of ANPR is comprised of individuals who are entrusted with and committed to the care, study, in the act of performing global conservation. explanation and/or protection of those natural, cultural In doing so, we rededicate ourselves toward IN THIS ISSUE and recreational resources included in the National Park sustaining the safe and productive professional Fall is a time for reaping. This is when we take System, and persons who support these efforts. performance of that mission. stock, close our budgets, and enjoy fruit sown ANPR’s official address: 25958 Genesee Trail Road, With the tragic wildland fire deaths in July PMB 222, Golden, CO 80401, www.anpr.org. Members in spring and grown in summer — if there receive Ranger as part of their membership dues. See the of 19 members of the Granite Mountain Hot- actually is fruit for the taking. In this issue of website or Ranger for membership/subscription details. shots in Arizona, linked alongside the recent Ranger we look at the public harvest that is our publication of the serious accident reports Submissions national parks. We sip Texas tea and march to Prospective authors should contact the editor or editorial documenting the deaths of National Park war on battlefield pancakes. We slip into the adviser before submitting articles. Editor, Teresa Ford, Service ranger Nick Hall at Mount Rainier and hot Ahwahnee kitchen and we learn to share 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222, Golden, CO maintenance worker Dana Bruce on the Blue through a tale of hard times when there was 80401, 303-526-1380; [email protected]. Editorial Ridge Parkway last year, employees across the no fruit. We even rescue a salamander along adviser, Kendell Thompson, 614-406-9400. NPS and sister land management agencies are the way. Deadlines taking time to better understand and appreci- Every park has a harvest tale. Yosemite Spring issue...... Jan. 31 ate the diverse work environments in which Summer issue...... April 30 chef Percy Whatley speaks about his recipe these most recent deaths occurred. The need Fall issue...... July 31 for heeding Director Jarvis’ call for healthy Winter issue...... Nov. 15 to further promote continued implementa- tion of effective operational leadership — by food in parks. At Big Thicket the crop is deep underground, and Stephanie Burgess tells of the balance needed in the search for oil in “Black CONTENTS Harvest.” Some harvests lie behind the scenes, Chef Percy Whatley: An Interview ...... 2 and in “A Natural Heist,” Clay Jordan takes Black Harvest ...... 4 us into the Appalachian woods in pursuit of A Natural Heist ...... 5 poachers. Talking with a Mouthful ...... 6 Spanning the multiple units at Jean Lafitte, Famine at the Table ...... 8 Great Old Broads for Wilderness...... 10 Kristy Wallisch examines the tasty nexus be- Author/Reporter Lynda Mapes on Elwha River Restoration...... 11 tween foodways and history in “Talking with a Mouthful.” When there is no harvest at all, In Print...... 14 Bill Warder explains, in his dark story “Famine Professional Ranger ...... 17 at the Table,” how sharing that bitter table with ANPR Actions & News...... 19 partners makes it easier to digest. ANPR Reports...... 20 Ranger Rendezous XXXVI...... 21 Like the recipes that fill park cookbooks, All in the Family...... 22 we all contribute to the feast enjoyed by more Oral History Project: An Interview with Barry Sullivan...... 24 than 400 million annual visitors. Writer Terry Pratchett penned: “…what can the harvest Copyright © 2013. All rights reserved. hope for, if not for the care of the reaper man?” Articles and images in this publication are the sole property With harvest comes seeds for the future. The of ANPR and Ranger magazine, except where otherwise parks contain a bountiful public harvest, and indicated. Republication in whole or part is not allowed we are all reapers who delight in the cycle without written permission. of feeding and being fed, as Yosemite poet Ranger Stephanie Coley at Lincoln Boyhood Kristina Rylands explains in her poem, “Ten National Memorial’s historical farm, photo by Lake Dreaming.” q Paula Alexander — Kendell Thompson, Ranger editorial adviser

RANGER • Fall 2013 u  Keep it simple, make it good An interview with Chef Percy Whatley hen First Lady Michelle Obama be in food and beverage as a fast food cook. hosted prominent chefs from I was used to hard, outdoor work and the across the country at her Chefs heat and smells of the hamburger stand felt WMove to Schools program, Percy Whatley natural to me. was part of the elite group. He’s chief chef of Yosemite’s Ahwahnee Hotel and Delaware Ranger: You have worked your way through North Corporation’s western region corporate many aspects of food service at Yosemite chef. and have seen a wide variety of visitor types. National parks have long played a promi- Who do you think you are serving in a nent role in American health initiatives. national park? National Park Service Director Jon Jarvis has announced that future concession contracts Whatley: We serve one of the broadest will require healthier food ingredients and spectrums of customers any food and bever- menu options. Following the director’s lead, age company can have. Visitors come from all ment requirements. While we usually see eye the NPS got specific in Action Item No. 8: corners of the globe and bring with them all to eye on how to best meet visitors’ needs, Eat Well and Prosper in the servicewide A Call kinds of lifestyles and food expectations. But we sometimes have to agree to disagree. In to Action plan. the basic expectations are the same: tasty and the end, we have to work within park service Ranger editorial adviser Kendell Thompson fresh food is all anyone is asking for. constraints. caught up with Whatley on his day off — at Tuolumne Meadows Campground — and Ranger: Is there anything fundamentally Ranger: How have your views on menu and talked to him about being a leader in the healthy different between patrons dining at the Ah- food choices for park visitors evolved? cuisine movement within national parks. wahnee and hikers ordering burgers at Curry Village? Whatley: As the food world has evolved, so has Ranger: Have you always wanted to cook? How Yosemite’s food operations. Most people want did you become a chef in a national park? Whatley: No. Visitors are not fundamentally fresh food choices that they understand and different, just financially diverse. recognize. We will always sell a lot of hamburg- Whatley: I grew up on 10 acres in southern ers, but next to it on the menu is a hummus New Mexico where I had to cut hay and gather Ranger: Do you think Yosemite provides a and vegetable wrap that sells very well too. The pecans. Cooking was not really a part of my good testing ground for development of new choices have broadened to include “healthy” life then, but we ate simple foods made with food service ideas in national parks across the food choices. Hummus was a fairly unknown good, locally grown ingredients. I have always country? food preparation when I arrived in Yosemite. I been drawn to the outdoors. I hunted, fished, didn’t even know what it was back then! backpacked and explored the higher mountains Whatley: It has that potential, but we face in the Gila Wilderness. We went camping in some basic challenges. We have found that we Ranger: Yosemite has been a cradle for sev- nearby national parks like Mesa Verde, but I are more successful in providing the standard eral internationally recognized movements. had very few national park experiences prior and recognizable choices that most people Philosophers, artists, politicians and business- to arriving to Yosemite as a green, 20-year-old are used to in their own neighborhoods and men have all developed landmark ideas after in 1989. towns. There are also hurdles related to work- intimate involvement with the park. Does ing in historic structures and within regulatory becoming a world class chef at Yosemite give Ranger: When you arrived in Yosemite, what systems that make promoting successful ideas you any special insight into this profession? did you think you would do with your life? to other parks in other areas of the country difficult. National park buildings often can’t Whatley: In the past I have been humbled by Whatley: I had no idea! After a one-year college easily be modified. What works here may not putting out menus to promote a specific agenda try, I didn’t want to do school anymore at that work in some other historic structure. And that failed. Visitors vote with dollars and pro- age. I knew I needed to, but I also needed a there are alignment issues between our need to vide instant feedback. Having the career that I break. Yosemite called and offered a position profitably meet visitor’s expectations and the have in Yosemite has brought a local, seasonal for the summer, and by chance it happened to regulatory boundaries of concessions manage- and sustainable focus to the foods I prepare

 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers and serve. I have been blessed to have the San Ranger: How do your roles as the executive visitors, can be hugely stressful. At the end of Joaquin Valley so close, with long growing chef for the Ahwahnee and the DNC western the day, do you recreate in the park? seasons and a diverse ingredient base. It has regional chef relate to the NPS mission? taught me as much as I have influenced the Whatley: Yes! It is the best place to play. After foods here. One thing about preparing menus Whatley: The food philosophies of the DNC work, I go and jump in the river to cool off dur- in Yosemite versus some other park, perhaps parks and resorts subsidiary and the expecta- ing the summer. My kids love the impromptu on the East Coast, is the lesson of seasonality. tion of the NPS mission are very parallel. We river swim! If you serve a Caesar salad in Maine in the prepare foods that are to be enjoyed within winter, you have to ask: where is that romaine the park, and we provide an experience in this Ranger: When you finally get to put your feet coming from? I am carrying the torch for my amazing setting, without being obtrusive to the up, what do you fix yourself for dinner? mentor, certified master chef Roland Henin. overall surroundings of the park. My role is to He really brought the concepts of “fresh, local work within the parameters of the agreements Whatley: We fire up the grill and do a rotis- and sustainable” to the Yosemite kitchen. Little between NPS and DNC. My advantage is that serie chicken in the summer. In the winter, it things make the greatest impacts. I try my I absolutely love national parks. It keeps me is grass-fed beef stew. USNPS best to not take that for granted throughout inspired constantly. my day to day. Ranger: Director Jon Jarvis has made A Call to Ten Lake Dreaming Ranger: You preside over a premier kitchen Action a major thrust for NPS management. By Kristina Rylands in a premier national park. While at Yosemite Are you familiar with A Call to Action, 2nd you have won international cooking competi- Century Vision: Connecting People to Parks, It’s funny how this is all relative— tions and received awards such as the Western No. 8, Eat Well and Prosper? It states: “En- one lake to the next to the next to the next Regional Chef of the Year Award from the courage park visitors to make healthy lifestyle a chain American Culinary Federation. What kind choices and position parks to support local outlets spill to inlets, feed each other of leadership responsibility does this position economies by ensuring that all current and as trout slurp the surface confer to you? future concession contracts require multiple for a moth a barbless fly or healthy, sustainably produced, and reasonably my big toe draped Whatley: Having influence on the food op- priced food options at national park food above the grassy bottom lake lawn. tions that people enjoy in the DNC operations service concessions.” (Yosemite, Sequoia and Olympic) has humbled Wind ripples the water, shivers shadows me over the years. Knowing that we can as- Whatley: Yes, we are very familiar with it, on the floor. sist in the enjoyment of the parks and be an and I think we have even grabbed Jon Jarvis’ integral part of the parks experience has a lot bull by the horns. However, the “why” of our Clark’s nutcrackers, raucous cawing of influence on me. It is an important part menu is based on sales, not NPS policy. I am looking for spring caches of red fir seeds of what I do. not a mad scientist crafting wild new foods left lost to germinate into tree clusters for the benefit of visitors. If I don’t provide red bark roots like arms reaching into Ranger: You were chosen to work with them with what they want, I am failing. They the earth they do what they can to survive First Lady Michelle Obama’s Chefs Move to are going to eat the burgers. So my job is to not the warm-rock summer Schools program. Has involvement in this make the healthiest burger I can so that they but winter’s mad crush. program made you change any of your views are making good, but familiar choices. I want or menus? them to recognize it, then from there, go out It’s coming and enjoy the park. It’s coming Whatley: Delaware North gathered all their the mountains call up regional chefs and we flew from all over the Ranger:What do you see as trends for food from the bottom of the earth country to D.C. on a last-minute flight to concessions management in national parks? through the center of granite participate in the grand launch on the White like a heartbeat House Lawn. It was such an honor to be Whatley: The trends follow what is also seen speeding up there! outside the parks: a broad variety of food a hum felt through the ground as if lightning could strike up It has certainly influenced my overall choices, including healthier options, using out of these rocks outlook on providing healthier options for sustainable and seasonal products with a focus and catch the younger people who visit the parks. It is on locally inspired cuisines. Guests in the parks the sky good to see sales figures rise on these menu still want fairly quick service so they can get out on fire. options over the last couple of years. People and enjoy the park. I think Delaware North are recognizing that we must eat well to live Companies is doing a great job throughout Kristina Rylands has worked 20 years in Yosemite, first as an environmental educator with the Yosemite well. And it has influenced me at home too. our operations in national parks. Institute and 13 years with the NPS as a writer/editor I have since adopted the El Portal school as and park planner. Two years ago she returned to her a chef. Most of the kids bring their lunch, so Ranger: You live and work within one of the education roots, becoming the director of NatureBridge I talk to them about food choices and food most beautiful places in America. But like (formerly Yosemite Institute). Her poetry has appeared history. I recently spent an hour with them many others who work in national parks, the in many journals and most recently in the anthology, discussing the history of French cooking. demands of millions of, in your case hungry Yosemite Poets: A Gathering of This Place.

RANGER • Fall 2013 u  as a result of intense mitigation measures. Avoiding much of the on-ground deployment Black typically used for 3-D surveys, this effort used helicopters for more than 90 percent of the Harvest operations and included strict environmental monitoring. Mitigation is a powerful tool, but we can’t change the past. Although the NPS has the authority to regulate new oil and gas operations, the oil booms at the turn of the century and again in the early 1970s have left more than 200 By Stephanie Burgess, Big Thicket and cumbersome. It often takes a reminder that abandoned sites within the boundary of Big Big Thicket is a national park, and should be Thicket. These locations range in condition. ed-blooded Americans worth their treated as such, for them to understand the ne- Some show no sign of previous oil and gas boots have images of cowboys, armadil- cessity of the requirements. These regulations, use; others have extensive debris and soil los and even football at the mention of however, can’t cover every aspect of potential contamination. The operators for these sites Texas.R But the one thing that always comes to operations, and there tends to be quite a bit are no longer liable for their restoration or mind is oil. And for good reason. The Great of site-specific mitigation required for each have gone out of business. It is now up to State of Texas entered the oil business in 1901 proposal. the NPS to audit these places, prioritize their when prospectors hit a gusher in Beaumont The most frequent kind of oil and gas reclamation, and request funding to complete that spewed oil for nine days before it could activity proposed at Big Thicket is oil and gas any outstanding mitigation measures. be controlled. Texans have been in the oil extraction using slant, or directional, drilling. Visitors have mixed reactions to oil and gas business ever since. Because of Big Thicket’s odd shape (the preserve activity at Big Thicket. Some will never see Most people, however, don’t associate our consists of nine larger land units connected by oil and gas being harvested from within the national parks with the oil industry. Oil and six riparian corridor units), oil and gas enti- preserve; their only knowledge of the industry gas exploration can be a messy business, and ties often propose to access their minerals by may be what they glean from a small exhibit that doesn’t seem to fit with the serene and starting their drill on nearby private lands and in the visitor center. Others may drive past oil protected concept of parks like Grand Canyon, boring under the preserve. These operations and gas operations just outside the park and Yellowstone or Big Bend. But Big Thicket may not impact the preserve’s more tangible not realize that they are accessing minerals National Preserve (and a handful of other surface features, but their impact to night from beneath the preserve. Locals are often NPS units) is a rare exemption within the skies, natural sounds and air quality must still happy to see oil and gas activity, as it is a part ranks of the National Park System. For better be analyzed. Over years of coordination with of their heritage and their current career. How- or for worse, Big Thicket and the oil industry these operators, we have developed a number ever, there are also visitors who encounter oil have coexisted since the preserve’s creation in of measures that oil and gas operators can and gas extraction and find that it negatively 1974. incorporate on neighboring lands to mitigate impacts their enjoyment of the resource. When Congress passed Big Thicket’s their impact to Big Thicket’s resources. These For the park staff and an NPS oil and gas enabling legislation on Oct. 11, 1974, they mitigation measures go above and beyond manager, there are no “good guys” or “bad formed a new type of National Park System Texas state regulations and include measures guys.” Rather, there is the congressionally unit. The national preserve was created to such as using a lined wellpad and creating a mandated mission of the preserve, the need protect sensitive or unique resources while still sound buffer between noisy compressors and to balance what may appear to some as an allowing for consumptive uses. In the case of the preserve. unconventional consumptive use — a black Big Thicket, these consumptive uses are hunt- Operators also seek undiscovered mineral harvest — with preserving a chance to hear ing, fishing, and mineral, oil and gas extraction. reserves by deploying recording equipment, the call of the black-bellied whistling duck. To some it may seem like these objectives are detonating buried explosives in a calculated Mitigation is required, but education is key. in conflict. How can you protect a sensitive manner and mapping the resulting vibrations. At Big Thicket the black harvest may gush natural resource while still allowing for oil and This technique, called a three-dimensional seis- from the ground, but it also includes the sounds gas exploration? The answer lies in regulation, mic survey, has the potential to cause extensive of a wetland summer night. USNPS communication, and above all, mitigation. environmental impacts if no mitigations are Following the creation of national preserves, required. With careful mitigation and advanced the NPS wrote regulations to specifically ad- technology, the impacts to natural and cultural Stephanie Burgess is manager of the oil and gas dress nonfederal oil and gas operations within resources can be lessened significantly. In a program at Big Thicket National Preserve. When she is not working in the preserve, she enjoys play- its units. The regulations address everything recent example, a survey that covered 17,411 ing in Beaumont’s co-ed soccer league and trying from proof of leasing to waste disposal. Many acres of wetlands within Big Thicket resulted to make everything on Pinterest. operators find the requirements to be expensive in only 6.6 acres of temporary wetland impact

 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers ies. Although the active ingredient found in bear gall bladders has been synthesized in the laboratory, gaining cultural acceptance of this substitute has been largely unsuccessful. The synthetic drug lacks the mystic-like power that many believe comes from a wild black bear. The same is true for wild ginseng. A trip down the aisle of your local pharmacy will reveal a plethora of botanical products containing ginseng root. This is not the ginseng root being stripped from the mountainsides of Shenandoah, Mammoth Cave or the Smokies. It is an inexpensive, readily available product cultivated on farms. Farm-raised ginseng has uniformly smooth, bulbous-shaped roots that lack the distinctive and irregular gnarly shapes characteristic of wild ginseng, which commands a much higher price in the Asian medicinal trade. On a trip to San Francisco’s Chinatown, I observed wild ginseng sorted in barrels. These roots, with their wrinkled appendages Seized Jordan’s salamanders, NPS photo that took on an almost humanoid form, sold for far higher prices than their less shapely counterparts. The market price is driven by cultural beliefs that define the potency of the product. TheA fightNatural to stop poaching of ourHeist natural heritage The business model for marketing bear parts used for medicinals, skins and jewelry, and By Clay Jordan, Great Smoky Mountains from products that abound in our parks. As the scheme for trade in Appalachian medici- ay the word poacher and many people with any profitable venture, money creates the nal plants such as ginseng, goldenseal, black imagine a rough-looking guy with a long incentive to find the most effective means to cohosh and bloodroot is the same. It begins rifle taking aim at a large deer or elk with go after the commodity you seek. The drive to with local mountain men doing the picking San impressive rack. This is accurate. maximize their haul — and any shortfalls in or shooting in the woods. Some work alone. On our public lands of the Southern Appa- our ability to curb it — translate to resource Others operate in organized hunting groups lachians, of which the Great Smoky Mountains, degradation. and use trained bear dogs equipped with radio Blue Ridge Parkway and Shenandoah comprise The list is long of natural plant and animal tracking collars. They sell to storefront dealers more than 400 miles of the mountain chain’s species of our Southern Appalachian parks or individual black market buyers, depending rocky backbone, trophy hunting draws more that poachers seek for personal financial gain. on the specific products and the laws that than a few people who commit wildlife crimes Most are in a few commercial markets: natural govern their trade. From there the products on park lands. Motivated by a desire to brag, medicinal products, nature-based collectibles find their way into complex worldwide trade these are thieves, not sportsmen, who want to and the horticultural industry. networks. This is no mom-and-pop operation, be seen in their local newspaper with a buck Traditional Asian medicine has been prac- but big business. or a bear bigger than any their neighbors may ticed for millennia and now drives a robust The best example of a sophisticated busi- have bagged. international trade — both legal and not ness trade model impacting national parks The drive for a trophy is strong, and if you — in plant and animal parts. That trade is may be the theft of a leafy groundcover. are willing to cheat to get it, it’s possible to profoundly felt in our Appalachian parks and Galax (galax urceolata) is found in its greatest find a magnificent animal in a national park other national park sites. Over the centuries, density along the crest of the Blue Ridge in where, through their legal protection, some deforestation and overharvesting of dried North Carolina, largely on parkway lands and have grown large and bold. bear gallbladders, for example, have nearly other protected areas. Its shiny, leathery leaves Yet, to characterize all poaching this way extirpated the Asian black bear population. make them popular in floral arrangements, would be an oversimplification of the threat The gallbladders are used to treat a number particularly in Western Europe. Tradesmen illegal harvesting poses to the natural park of ailments, and continued demand for this lacking scruples use migrant workers to stuff resources we are mandated to protect. It’s not product puts pressure on the American black galax leaves into large duffel bags. Before the the woodsman from the neighboring hol- bear. One successful covert criminal investi- leaves have a chance to wilt, they are hauled low who poses the real threat, but rather the gation tracked gallbladders from black bears in refrigerated trucks and flown from western businessman from the city. To a tradesman not poached from within or near Shenandoah all North Carolina to Amsterdam and other ports bound by regulation and personal conserva- the way to South Korea. Others were tracked around the globe, then distributed to retail tion values, there is much money to be made to Chinatowns in numerous American cit- florists. Systematic efficiency breeds profit, and

RANGER • Fall 2013 u  such efficient harvesting can quickly denude troubling to speculate how many more we a mountainside of galax before rangers make may be losing each year to meet the demand the discovery. The numbers are staggering. of enthusiasts worldwide. Talking with Blue Ridge rangers have seized up to 18,000 There is good news. Understanding a leaves from a single incident and 60,000 leaves problem is the first step to fixing it, and we in a month. This is but a drop in the bucket. are learning more every season. Rangers are a Mouthful Undisturbed galax populations are now hard coming to understand how these criminal to find on NPS lands. enterprises operate.We are not going to be A more domestic but equally scarring effective in mitigating these threats by simply Jean Lafitte has six sites in threat to southern park resources also comes patrolling for bad guys or staking out a robotic from the horticultural industry. Forest moss decoy. As an agency positioning itself to ad- a state famous for its food. is collected in sheets from logs, rocks and dress 21st-century resource threats stemming the forest floor, and used to line flower pots, from illegal activity, we are learning to apply By Kristy Wallisch, Jean Lafitte among other decorative applications. Not new strategies in our protection programs. much is currently known about the impacts We know that enforcement assets can’t he hallmark of a really good cook is to forest ecosystems from this form of theft, operate in isolation, and we must make sci- to take ordinary ingredients — even but researchers are finding that harvest sites ence-based decisions to prioritize our efforts, leftovers — and make them into Tsomething extraordinary. When a cook takes may take a disconcerting 20 years to recover. with special focus on resources at risk. Our Nearly all resources targeted by poachers approach needs to include rolling up our sleeves leftover rice, a pile of potatoes, or “everything can be found outside park boundaries and in tandem with our colleagues and applying from the pig but the whistle” and turns it into often may even be legally harvested. What interdisciplinary tools to mitigate resource dish that makes visitors smile, you know you’ve draws thieves into parks is simple economics: threats. got something special. the denser the product in any given area (like Ultimately, success in our protection pro- When you manage this kind of culinary natural areas that have been harvested less), the grams will be marked by our ability to work magic in food-centric Louisiana, you’ve got more money they can make for their effort. with outside conservation agencies and rule- the foodways demonstrators of Jean Lafitte As commercially desirable plants, wildlife, makers to protect resources in decline across National Historical Park and Preserve. minerals, artifacts and more become scarcer their range, not just within painted lines. Because Jean Lafitte has six sites in a state outside park boundaries, pressure increases The challenges we face are as much cultural famous for its food and a park mission of pre- on those same resources within parks. — both bureaucratic and human — as they are serving significant examples of local natural Most of these threats to park resources are operational. The plants and animals that are and cultural resources, foodways demonstra- not new in national parks, and rangers have our shared heritage blur the lines of our parks, tions are the perfect icing on the interpretive been battling poachers for decades. What is and so must we in our efforts to save them. cake. Chalmette Battlefield, site of the 1815 relatively new is the threat posed by collectors Where there is challenge, there also lies Battle of New Orleans, focuses on the campfire of those things found in nature that are rare, opportunity to make a difference, even if it cooking that kept troops fed during the War beautiful or unusual. In this age of the Internet, comes one salamander case at a time. USNPS of 1812. The French Quarter Visitor Center a history buff in Athens can now, with just a in New Orleans highlights the melting pot Clay Jordan is the chief ranger at Great Smoky of cultures that underlay a distinctive local few clicks of a mouse, collect Civil War uni- Mountains. Past positions have included chief cuisine. form buttons. Just as easily, he can purchase ranger at Gulf Islands and deputy chief ranger an eastern newt for about the price of a movie at Shenandoah. The Prairie Acadian Cultural Center in ticket. While many species of plants or animals Eunice shows off the French influences im- being sold are cultivated or raised in captivity, ported by exiled Acadians from Nova Scotia. economic incentives exist for collecting from They incorporate local ingredients and the the wild. contributions of other ethnic groups to create In 2009 a ranger stopped a vehicle for Cajun cooking that is now world-renowned. speeding in the Smokies only to discover that “It’s the smell,” said park ranger Claudia the operator had more than three dozen live Wood at PACC. “When visitors walk into salamanders collected from the park. A search a Saturday afternoon foodways demonstra- warrant served on his residence in Seattle re- tion, those wonderful cooking smells create a Seized ginseng roots, NPS photo vealed plenty more of them. special atmosphere and visitors can’t help but He had flown across the smile. Most of our visitors are familiar with country to add Jordan’s sala- jambalaya and gumbo, so one of the favorite manders (plethodon jordani) demonstrations is a dish they may not know to his commercial inventory, about: boudin.” a species endemic to Great Pronouned boo-DAN, Wood explained that Smoky Mountains National it is sausage — but not just any old sausage. Park that is found nowhere “Thrifty Cajun cooks didn’t waste anything, else on the planet. A few so when they butchered a hog, the goal was to salamanders were recovered use everything,” she said. “You take pork, rice, on this occasion, but it is onions and seasoning and put it in a casing

 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers dishes are calas and grape onions, fry it, and you’ve got a good, filling dumplings, treats that show dish. Mix in some seasonings or top it with off Louisiana’s cultural mix. sour cream or applesauce, and you’ve got Calas — fried rice fritters something that visitors will remember. And usually made from leftover we always hand out recipes so visitors can take rice — may have arrived in home more than a memory.” New Orleans with enslaved Two of the most controversial elements Africans and soon became in any culinary adventure are who pays and a breakfast favorite peddled who eats. Since food is such a critical part of by vendors in the French Louisiana culture, funds to buy ingredients Quarter. Area Indians made and pay demonstrators come from the park’s grape dumplings from wild interpretive division budget, with occasional grapes, incorporating Euro- support from the Eastern National Parks and pean ingredients like baking Monuments Association. powder. Who eats varies from site to site. At the Frieda Arwe and others make delectable potato pancakes. NPS photo Dedicated foodies prob- PACC and the French Quarter Visitor Center, made from the hog’s intestines. Cook it up as ably think they know the story of New Orleans demonstrations are done in commercial-grade is for the perfect Cajun ‘fast food’ or use it as food, but park ranger Jim Van Dorin of Jean kitchens under strict health department guide- the basis for dishes from stuffed cabbage and Lafitte’s French Quarter Visitor Center can lines so visitors can enjoy samples. If rangers peppers to omelettes.” still surprise visitors. “Most visitors know with food safety certifications are not available It’s no exaggeration to say that residents of about the French, Spanish, African and maybe to oversee demonstrations, demonstrators can Louisiana’s Cajun country and the PACC staff Italian influences,” he said, “but lots of visitors cook but no sampling is allowed. love their boudin. In 2011 the PACC hosted are surprised to hear that Germans were once “That’s when we have some sad visitors,” a well-attended traveling exhibit on boudin among the most numerous and influential Van Dorin said. “But most of the time we can from the Southern Foodways Alliance; the ethnic groups in New Orleans.” share samples, and demonstrators make sure oral histories from that exhibit and an interac- German immigrants started arriving in to cook plenty of whatever they’re making so tive map are now available to boudin lovers Louisiana in the 1720s when the area’s French we don’t turn anyone away.” everywhere at www.southernboudintrail.com. governors recruited them to farm the rich delta At the battlefield it’s another story. “The “We feature a foodways demonstration soils. only downside to the demonstration is that almost every Saturday,” said Wood, “but it’s “A lot of folks think they’re descended from we can’t share the food with visitors because worth all the work. What could be better? We French immigrants because their name is Blanc campfire cooking is not up to health and safety share local culture, we promote the park mis- or La Branche,” Van Dorin said. “They do a little regulations,” Corral said. “But the living his- sion, and we make a demonstration food that research and find out they’re German because tory volunteers get to eat it — and the high the visitors love. We love making our visitors the French immigration officials changed their school students quickly become expert cooks, happy from that first smile when they smell family’s name from Weiss or Zweig.” because in the interest of authenticity, that’s the food cooking to that tasty memory they Although demonstrations happen through- all they get to eat!” USNPS take home.” out the year, the Christmas season is a fa- It’s the smell at Chalmette Battlefield too, vorite time for German cooking. Van Dorin Kristy Wallisch is a park ranger at Jean Lafitte reported park ranger Patricia Corral. “One explained, “Since German holiday traditions National Historical Park and Preserve. Her of the goals of the battlefield’s living history brought us Christmas trees, candles and many favorite Louisiana food is seafood gumbo, which program is to show visitors what life was like carols, it’s a good fit. Our German foodways by popular demand she and her husband always for the troops who fought at the Battle of New demonstrators usually make potato pancakes. make for their out-of-town guests. Orleans in 1815, so we do campfire cooking,” Take a potato, grate it, mix in some minced she said. “Between the wood smoke and the stews and the other dishes, we take advantage Potato Pancakes (Kartoffelphannkuchen) of those powerful sensory memories that smells create.” From Welcome to German Cooking by Irmgard Landry, reprinted with permission from the German American Cultural Center, Gretna, Louisiana Corral added, “Of course, we make basic campfire dishes like stews, but we also try to 5 pounds potatoes 1 pinch of thyme show off foods that are special to this area and 1 large onion 1 pinch of marjoram this period of history. The battlefield runs a 3 whole eggs salt to taste living history program for local high school 1 heaping tablespoon of flour shortening as needed students called Recognizing Our Roots, and Grate potatoes very finely; grate in onion. Mix in eggs, flour and seasonings. Add salt right before last year we expanded it to include Choctaw frying pancakes. students from three states to represent the Put one heavy tablespoon of shortening into 12-inch skillet and fry three pancakes at a time. Two Choctaw Indians who fought with the Ameri- tablespoons of batter make one potato pancake. cans at the battle. They brought in a whole new culinary influence that’s been fun to try.” Kartoffelpfannkuchen are usually eaten as a meal in itself with canned/stewed fruit or lettuce. Two of Corral’s favorite demonstration

RANGER • Fall 2013 u  today and attend a ranger-guided walking tour, many are surprised to learn that, of the estimated 7,000 people sent to Virginia from 1607 to 1624, approximately 5,000 perished, with 40 percent of them dying within a few weeks or months of their arrival. Recounting these statistics on an interpretive tour can sound impersonal. Sadly, desperation and death are common tales throughout history, but the story of starving time and cannibalism where only 60 of the 300 or more colonists at James Fort survived is not something many visitors expect to encounter during their visit. One Famine at the Table way to tell this story is through the haunting voice of survivors. In a private letter to his nephew, Algernon More than 70% of the people sent to Virginia from Percy, the future 10th Earl of Northumberland, George Percy, president of the colony from the 1607-24 perished. Famine was rampant, but did fall of 1609 to the spring of 1610, recalled the cannibalism contribute to this tragedy? Jamestown following experiences: “Now all of us at James Town beginning National Historic Site and Preservation Virginia are to feel that sharp prick of hunger, which no man truly describe but he which hath tasted working together to accurately solve and interpret the bitterness thereof. A world of miseries the mysteries of ‘the starving time.’ ensued, as the sequel will express unto you, insomuch that some, to satisfy their hunger, have robbed the store, for the which I caused By Bill Warder Virginia? Yet, this tranquil vision of a place and them to be executed. Then having fed upon Jamestown National Historic Site time long past has been disrupted by a recent horses and other beasts as long as they lasted, amestown, Virginia, is the first permanent discovery by Jamestown National Historic Site’s we were glad to make shift with vermin, as English settlement in North America. partner, Preservation Virginia’s Jamestown dogs, cats, rats, and mice. All was fish that Established in 1607, it’s an idyllic site on Rediscovery Archaeological Project. Excavat- came to net to satisfy cruel hunger, as to eat theJ north bank of the James River about 60 ing the cellar of one of the earliest buildings boots, shoes, or any other leather some could miles west of the Atlantic Ocean. As you walk located inside the original 1607 James Fort site, come by. And those being spent and devoured, the peaceful grounds and view the surround- archaeologists uncovered the partial remains some were enforced to search the woods and ing landscape and river, you may find yourself of a person who in all probability arrived as to feed upon serpents and snakes and to dig thinking what one of the original settlers a settler to the colony in 1609. Dr. William the earth for wild and unknown roots, where thought when he first viewed this area: “(the) Kelso, director of archaeology for the project, many of our men were cut off and slain by the fair meadows and goodly tall trees, with such and his colleagues upon further examination of savages. And now famine beginning to look fresh waters running through the woods as I was this shattered human skull began to wonder if ghastly and pale in every face that nothing was almost ravished at the first sight thereof.” its battered condition was the result of mortal spared to maintain life and to do those things Surely a region this lush, this fertile, this wounds suffered by this settler during combat, abundant in wildlife was a paradise for those or was this person murdered, or was it pos- p These Sidney King paintings depict the first settlers. Hadn’t they been told as much in sible this was the first tangible evidence found starving time. Top left, “Burial of the Dead at Jamestown during Winter 1609-1610”; right, England, where literature and stories circulated at Jamestown of a settler being cannibalized “Starving Time,1609-1610.” Courtesy of the throughout cities, towns and villages describ- during “the starving time”? National Park Service, Colonial National Historical ing the Garden of Eden that awaited them in For those visitors who experience Jamestown Park, Jamestown Collection

 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers which seem incredible, as to dig up dead corpse starving time, confirming the out of graves and to eat them, and some have accounts of Percy, Smith and the licked up the blood which hath fallen from early planters. their weak fellows. And amongst the rest, this Dr. Douglas Owsley, forensic was most lamentable that one of our Colline anthropologist and division head (colony?) murdered his wife, ripped the child for physical anthropology at the out of her womb and threw it into the river, Smithsonian’s National Museum and after chopped the mother to pieces and of Natural History, was consulted salted her for his food. The same not being by Jamestown Rediscovery to discovered before he had eaten part thereof, for conduct a forensic study of the the which cruel and unhuman fact I adjudged skull, mandible and a partial him to be executed, the acknowledgment of right tibia bone thought to be the deed being enforced from him by torture, of the same person. The findings having hung by the thumbs with weights at of Owsley and his team of bone his feet a quarter of an hour, before he would specialists were conclusive: this confess the same. … Many of our men this was a young English woman, ap- starving time did run away unto the savages, proximately 14 years of age when whom we never heard of after.” she perished, whose remains Corroborating evidence of these and other exhibited numerous chop and cut starving time tragedies were chronicled in a marks from various sharp metal 1624 document by early planters in the colony, instruments — incontrovertible some of whom may have been survivors of proof of survival cannibalism the catastrophe. Captain John Smith, who committed by one or more of departed the colony prior to “the starving time,” her fellow colonists. recorded in his 1624 book, The General Historie Kelso’s team had detected of Virginia, New-England and the Summer Isles, Jane’s remains (the name given that cannibalism occurred at Jamestown. It her out of respect) mixed among was based on reports of Jamestown colonists tens of thousands of discarded in the wake of the disaster. items and animal bones buried in an aban- Nevertheless, accounts by new Virginia doned cellar within the fort. These objects governors, Sir Thomas Gates, succeeded by were deposited there in June 1610 in order to Lord De La Warr, and Admiral of Virginia, Sir “cleanse the town” subsequent to “the starving George Somers, all three present at Jamestown time.” Jane’s somber saga is available online at in the spring of 1610, either failed to mention www.historicjamestowne.org/jane/jane.php. cannibalism or, in the case of Sir Thomas Gates, National and international news coverage protested that the murdered woman was not about Jane, cannibalism and “the starving time” killed by her husband to be cannibalized but has brought inquisitive visitors to Jamestown. to save him from having to share food with It has renewed the question of how the NPS his wife, as a search of his house ensuing the interpretive staff should handle this new devel- Top, archaeologist Mary Anna Richardson works homicide revealed “a good quantity of meal, opment. The decision was made to continue in the field. Second image, forensically recon- oatmeal, beans and peas.” including aspects of “the starving time” in park structed face of Jane. Images courtesy of Preservation Although it is generally agreed that famine tours and answer visitors’ questions about Jane. Virginia (Historic Jamestowne) and death stalked the inhabitants of James However, the grisly specifics are left to the tours Fort, these differing primary accounts stirred a and publications presented by Preservation lenge for interpreters: how do we impart to debate among some academicians as to whether Virgina archaeologists as subject-matter experts our visitors Jamestown’s past as accurately as is cannibalism actually happened during “the to tell Jane’s story, particularly the scientific possible, even its tragedies, while maintaining starving time.” aspects they recently uncovered. the dignity of those who lived and died here? Throughout my 23-year career at James- Jane has contributed immensely to our Those early colonists struggled and died in town, starving time cannibalism has always knowledge about “the starving time,” allowing isolation. Fortunately for Jamestown National been accepted as fact by the interpretive rangers, us to gain insight into her short life and pre- Historic Site, we have partners like Preserva- although few rangers incorporate that grisly mature death, and that of her fellow colonists. tion Virginia to help us work through our own detail in their descriptions of “the starving time” Everyone associated with Jamestown realizes difficult issues. USNPS and no tour had or has “the starving time” and Jane’s story is compelling and heartbreaking. cannibalism as its central theme. If asked about Yet her tragic circumstances allow visitors to cannibalism, interpreters answered visitors’ more readily personalize her and her fellow Bill Warder is an interpretive park ranger at James- questions by citing the primary sources. But colonists’ daily struggle to survive horrific town, part of Colonial National Historical Park, having served at Jamestown since 1991, and a now, the discovery of the mutilated human conditions while being isolated inside James 2002 graduate of Dr. Kelso’s Jamestown Rediscovery skull provides the first palpable evidence that Fort during the winter of 1609 to 1610. Archaeology Field School. cannibalism was a reality during Jamestown’s Ultimately, Jane represents a distinct chal-

RANGER • Fall 2013 u  Staying green while growing gray

Rose Chilcoat through the years Great Old Broads for Wilderness: You have to admit, it’s a catchy and provocative name that raises eyebrows and produces smiles. By Chris Shaver “Bringing my agency knowledge to pub- damaged by grazing and off-road travel, and here are many ways to stay connected to lic land management issues as an advocate, their hearts and minds reach out to children by the land and support the conservation and working with smart, feisty, experienced sharing their passion and knowledge through mission after hanging up your hat, just women, has been an inordinately satisfying educational activities. Tas there are ways to enhance that connection way to continue my passion for conserving Much of the work of the Great Old Broads while still employed. wild public lands,” says Rose. is done through local chapters around the Some donate their spare change or time The Great Old Broads, which welcomes country, called “Broadbands.” Chris Shaver, to their favorite conservation or friend’s Bro’s and “Broads-in-Training” from younger who devoted 23 years to stomping out air organization, some enjoy sharing their love generations, is a national organization with pollution, noise pollution and light pollution of the great outdoors with their children and more than 4,500 members. It was founded in parks across the country before retiring grandchildren, and some relish offering their in 1989 by a group of women who took issue from the NPS Air Resources Division, helped experience to develop solutions to complex with Utah Sen. Orrin Hatch’s assertion that organize the Mile High Broadband in Denver resource protection problems. wilderness areas should not be established and Boulder. Some former or retired NPS employees because the population is aging and “the old “I spent most of my professional career have found an organization that lets them do people won’t be able to access it.” working in the regulatory arena, trying to all of the above, while having a good time. The Oh, really?! reign in polluters. Even when successful, it Great Old Broads for Wilderness has become Well, these spunky women decided that the took decades to resolve legal challenges and a natural and comfortable group for those voice of the elders needed to be heard in the install equipment,” Chris said. “I knew that who are growing gray but want to stay actively debate. While most of the early members were when I retired, I wanted to spend time more green. And, you have to admit, it’s a catchy still very capable of “accessing” wild and provocative name that raises eyebrows lands using their own two feet, they and produces smiles whenever the affiliation advocated for protecting the intrinsic is mentioned. value of wild lands and their value to Rose Chilcoat, now the associate director future generations, as well as the role for Great Old Broads, spent her formative of wilderness in protecting natural years working at Mesa Verde, Bryce Canyon, systems and the plant and animal Rocky Mountain, Coulee Dam and the Alaska species that depend upon them. Regional Office. After leaving the NPS to raise Today, Great Old Broads voices are her family in Durango, she jumped at the heard in debates about new wilderness chance to work for Broads when they moved areas, their bodies are active in moni- their national headquarters there. toring and restoring natural wild lands

10 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers attached to the lands I love and doing things that brought about quicker results. The Great Old Broads is a perfect fit.” A Joyful Thing Several NPS family members are active in the Mile High Broadband. Suzy Stutzman, a A conversation with author Lynda V. Mapes longtime Broads member, retired this year as lead planner/wilderness coordinator for the By Peter Stekel NPS Intermountain Region after a lifetime ynda Mapes, author of Elwah: A River with the agency. New Broad Janet Wise oversaw Reborn, which documents the removal natural resource programs for the Intermoun- of two dams within Olympic National tain Region before she retired. Park,L began her career in journalism in 1982 Sheila Lewis raised her family in eight parks with the Spokane Spokesman-Review. She while her husband, Cecil (now deceased) rose covered the Washington State Legislature and through the NPS ranks. statewide political news. “I spent most of my life close to the land, Her first article about the Elwah River ap- and I don’t intend to lose that connection,” peared in 1996, and she continued her coverage Sheila said. “I like to hike. I enjoy the service after moving to the Seattle Times in 1998. projects and getting my hands dirty. I’m very The Elwah Valley is the first place the 1981 comfortable with the Broads. We’re kindred Oberlin College graduate ever went camping spirits.” after arriving in the Pacific Northwest. “It’s The Great Old Broads are an anomaly in a place I’ve long visited and long loved. It’s right to fish for salmon along the Elwah River. the environmental activist area. Their elder incredibly beautiful,” she said. The lower dam on the Elwah had been built status and the grace, wisdom and humor they Removing the Elwah River Dam and the illegally in 1910, and nothing seemed workable bring to conversations about land conserva- Glines Canyon Dam in Olympic have been for restoring the river until 1988 when Glines tion attract the public’s interest and attention front and center in the Pacific Northwest since Canyon Dam in Olympic, uppermost of the in ways that other groups cannot. And that’s 1992 when Congress passed the Elwah River two dams on the river, came up for relicensing just the way they like it. and Fisheries Restoration Act. “It wasn’t until (see sidebar, page 13). This was when the tribe, For more information about the group, visit three or four years ago that it finally became through their attorney, decided they would www.greatoldbroads.org. USNPS clear it actually would happen,” Mapes recalled. not discuss mitigation but would talk about “The Seattle Times has to own this story. As the “taking dams down,” and especially, “taking Since retiring from the NPS in 2010, Chris Shaver newspaper that was cheerleading for the Elwah these dams down.” has been hanging out with a bunch of Great Old Dam when it was built in 1910, we needed to Times had changed since the dams were Broads when she isn’t wandering the world in search be the newspaper that looked at the recovery built. The law and regulatory environment of adventure and attracting civil unrest. In her spare time, she serves as the president of the Nature Fund effort as it occurred 100 years later.” had changed too. “Not only was the Federal for National Parks, a new nonprofit supporting The Times quickly committed to Mapes’ Energy Regulatory Commission required to science and natural resource management projects vision, not only to cover breaking news in the look at aspects of power generation from dams in parks. She lives in the Denver area. paper and online, but to build a special project but other values too,” Mapes said. that eventually led to Mapes, photographer Dr. Thomas O’Keefe from the American Steve Ringman and online producer Genevieve Whitewater, a national nonprofit group that Alvarez winning the American Association for advocates for rivers and watersheds, explained: the Advancement of Science 2012 award for “Hydroelectricity is a very important source online journalism. of energy for our region. It’s low carbon and “I knew there would never be enough space has a lot of benefits. But the law requires that in the paper for a story as big as the Elwah,” we take those values into consideration rela- said Mapes, so she began saving bits and pieces tive to other values river systems have.” Chief of narrative, characters and scenes for a book. among these values were recreation, wildlife She saw the Elwah story as having everything: and fish. people, history, animals, an astounding future Negative inertia still had to be overcome. and dramatic past, along with questions still There was also the sense in the Olympic gate- unanswered. For Mapes, “It’s the ultimate way community of Port Angeles that these Northwest story.” dams were “perfectly good dams.” Residents, So many things stood in the way for so long businesses, civic leaders and local politicians that advocates of dam removal had doubts it wanted to know why the dams should be would ever occur. “The Elwah-Klallam Tribe removed and the river unplugged. Some saw never wanted that dam to happen, of course,” Elwah and Glines Canyon dams as historic she said. “Nobody cared about them, back and meaningful engineering projects built by then. And certainly didn’t think about their their forebears. There was the view that the Sheila Lewis always brings her “kid” along, son treaty rights, although they had them.” dams represented “hard-won progress.” Wayne. Primary amongst those rights was the tribe’s As Mapes tells the story, “At the beginning

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 11 of this fight you could fit all the people down to a value judgement as to what who thought Elwah River dam removal your feelings are about reservoir-based made sense into a Volkswagen bug!” or river-based recreation,” O’Keefe These were a group of people whom said. “But be honest. The opportuni- Mapes refers, tongue-in-cheek, as “a ties aren’t going to disappear. They’re small rag-tag group of true believers,” going to change.” made up of “Indians, birdwatchers and Mapes said, “There’s a cadre of tree-huggers.” Dam removal on this people in Port Angeles who are proud scale had never been done, much less of what they’ve done and are curious thought of. Even environmentalists to see where it’s all headed.” thought the idea was “crazy.” Removing Elwah and Glines Can- As environmental groups looked at yon dams is a cause célèbre through- dam removal more closely they slowly out the United States. “The Elwah came on board the project, recognizing represents that (environmentalism) it as an good idea. Four groups stand doesn’t all have to be about loss or out for their participation: Friends of ecosystems being broken. It can also the Earth, Olympic Park Association, be about recovery.” Sierra Club and Audubon Society. What makes the Elwah story so They noted that not only was the significant when it comes to habitat lower dam illegally built, the upper restoration and recovery is the scale. dam penetrated the heart of Olympic. “This is a gigantic watershed all the “They realized they had a case,” Mapes way from the mountains to the sea, said. three-fourths of it already perma- The reservoir formed by Glines nently protected and never wrecked,” Canyon Dam was not originally within Mapes said. “Take out the dams and the park but was engulfed by Olympic you’re going to have a naturally func- when the park was expanded. “I always tioning ecosystem that is the largest wondered when I was researching this,” restoration of its type ever in the Mapes said, “how did anybody miss world.” That’s not hyperbole. “With that when they did that boundary one action we will get over 70 miles re-draw?” Did they not see a conflict? of habitat back.” Glines Canyon Dam, Olympic National Park, photo by Peter Stekel After all, hunting was allowed in Grand What of the future? Time is telling Teton, mining in Joshua Tree and Death Val- you can realize you have more options than us that Elwah dam removal will not be an ley, and grazing in Kings Canyon. There’s even you may have thought.” isolated event, Mapes said. A third dam in O’Shaughnessy Dam on the Tuolumne River Since the Elwah River was first dammed, Washington, Condit on the White Salmon in Yosemite’s Hetch Hetchy Valley, completed concepts of wealth have changed. The natural River, was taken down in 2011. “These infra- in 1923. Why would Glines Canyon Dam environment is now seen to have more value structure projects are time-limited. They fall matter? than it did 100 years ago. Power from the dam apart, they cost more and more to maintain, Mapes said the difference between then and removal on the Elwah was easily replaced by and their benefits are ultimately not what they now: “Values change.” She sees the Elwah River power from the Bonneville grid. “We’re able to once were.” When that equation starts to tip, as an example of how progress is redefined. keep the jobs in Port Angeles that the Elwah things change. “There was a certain kind of progress we needed supported and bring the river back,” Mapes This doesn’t mean we should stop being out there in the early 1900s because there was said. She sees this as “the best of all worlds.” grateful for these projects, stop making use virtually no ability to have an industrial base. Reaction to dam removal, especially in Port of them, and let them deteriorate due to lack Thomas Aldwell, builder of the lower dam, Angeles, has been mixed. There is still a cadre of funding or maintenance. “I don’t think came along and figured out that with cheap of people who feel it was unnecessary. They we’re ever going to see the big dams on the power you could crank up a (lumber) mill might wonder why we need salmon when you main stem of the Columbia River come out. industry, which supported the town of Port can buy them in the store. People miss the They’re too valuable. They create electricity for Angeles for the next 50-70 years.” swans that swam on the reservoir’s surfaces. the entire western grid,” Mapes said. But she Dam removal on the Elwah River is an They miss boating there too. That feeling isn’t doesn’t see Glines Canyon, Elwah and Condit important and critical event because “it shows going to change. “There’s nothing you can as the last dams removed. “More and more of that it’s possible,” Mapes said. “You can look at tell them that’s going to change their mind,” them are going to get old and fall apart and the status quo, whatever it is, and you can as- Mapes said. not be worth fixing or relicensing.” sess it and decide, what really makes sense?” American Whitewater’s O’Keefe under- Olympic has seen huge benefits from dam Still, Mapes knows that “because it made stands how removing the Elwah’s dams created removal on the Elwah River. Park visitor num- sense on the Elwah doesn’t mean it’s going to the perception that recreational opportunities bers are up. Money has been flowing to the make sense at Grand Coulee. Each one of these would be lost. True, reservoir-based recreation park for follow-up research to track restoration (dam removals) is a cost-benefit calculation. would be gone but entirely new river-based efforts. There’s nothing but an upside for the But it shows that if you do that calculation, recreation would be created. “It may come park in terms of being a national leader in

12 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers stewardship and interpretation. “This is being watched around the world by all kinds of scientists, students, authors,” FERC Relicensing Mapes said. “It’s a chance for them (Olympic) The Federal Energy Regulatory Commission has jurisdiction over interstate electricity to do what they do best in terms of interpreting sales, wholesale electric rates, hydroelectric licensing, natural gas pricing and oil pipe- the natural world for the public.” They have line rates. “an incredible opportunity to build scientific literacy of people whose attention is glued on FERC also issues licenses to construct, operate and maintain a nonfederal hydroelec- this place.” tric project that occupies federal public lands or federal reservations located on navi- The story Lynda Mapes tells is not all gable streams, that use surplus water or water power from a federal government dam, externalities. There is an internal story, too, or were constructed after Aug. 26, 1935, on a non-navigable stream that affects the because she has remained neither unmoved nor interests of interstate or foreign commerce (including providing power to an interstate unchanged through her long association with power grid). the Elwah River. “For me, it’s a hopeful story. For someone who writes about the natural Dr. Thomas O’Keefe with American Whitewater, a national nonprofit river steward- world, so often it’s writing about a place that has ship organization, said: “As public resources, rivers can’t be owned by private indus- been ruined, or lost or about to be. This is not tries. A developer may obtain a license from FERC, however, to dam the river for the that story. This is the story of transformation. purpose of hydropower generation.” It really can happen — politically, ecologically A FERC license is granted for 30-50 years. The license stipulates how the dams are and even personally. It can awaken in you a operated, what minimum water flow levels are required, and what forms of fish pas- kind of generosity and a spirit of hope. What sage must be installed. In some cases FERC also stipulates how watershed lands are a gift!” managed. As Mapes takes the Elwah story to the public during book readings, she is finding O’Keefe added, “As of April 2000, there were 1,005 licenses, and 597 exemptions were “there is a real hunger for hopeful stories and overseen by FERC. In the past, FERC’s primary goal was promoting hydro dams for stories about renewal that are true stories. It a river’s power generation potential, often without regard for the dam’s environmental has been a joyful thing to be involved with.” impacts. Beginning in 1993, relicensing received greater scrutiny from the public. In recognition of her work, Mapes was Since then, 160 licenses affecting 237 dams on 105 rivers have expired, representing awarded a one-year science writing fellowship over 10 percent of all FERC-licensed dams. Over the next 15 years there will be an- at MIT for the 2013-14 academic year. USNPS other 650 dams with expiring licenses.” An occasional contributor to Ranger, Peter Stekel is the Because rivers are a public resource, members of organizations such as American author of Final Flight: The Mystery of a WWII Plane Whitewater say it’s important during relicensing for all interested parties to have a Crash and the Frozen Airmen in the High Sierra. say in how a dam and a river will be managed for the duration of a FERC license. – Peter Stekel’s review of Elwah: Relicensing offers once-in-a-lifetime opportunities for local organizations to have an A River Reborn on the next page – impact on the protection and restoration of rivers adversely affected by hydropower development. “Changes to project operations can benefit the environment, public recreational op- Join ANPR on portunities and local economies,” says O’Keefe. “Effective hydropower relicensing needs local input, especially among groups that have intimate knowledge of the affect- ed river and watershed. Hydropower relicensing is a clear and effective way to establish social media a legacy of healthy rivers for future generations.”

www.facebook. facebook ® com/parkrangers We need fresh photos; please share your images It’s always nice to rotate photos on ANPR’s • Linked in ® website: www.anpr.org. Besides national park scenics, we’re interested in photos of you at your park site. Some of the images, particularly profile pictures, are needed for twitter the cover of ANPR’s publication, “Live the @anprranger Adventure: Join the National Park Service.” These should be high-resolution images to allow for print publication. Search for Association of National Email [email protected]. Horizontal for- Park Rangers on any of the sites. mat works best for the webpage slideshow,

Acadia, NPS photo NPS Acadia, but verticals are fine for other uses.

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 13 grid has easily replaced power generated by the In Print Elwah and Glines Canyon dams. “We’re able to keep the jobs in Port Angeles that the Elwah Elwah: A River Reborn, Lynda V. supported and bring the river back,” Mapes Mapes, photography by Steve Ring- said. She termed it “the best of all worlds.” man. The Mountaineers Books and These are points reinforced by Thomas O’Keefe, a Ph.D. aquatic ecologist who works The Seattle Times, 2013. ISBN 978-1- as Pacific Northwest stewardship director for 59485-734-8,176 pages, 10-by-9-inch American Whitewater, a nonprofit national format, 125 color photos plus historic river advocacy group. “All dams have a finite images, illustrations and one map. life span. That life span extends beyond the $29.95, paperback life span of a generation. People think of dams as permanent features on a landscape because they’ve been there since before they were born Reviewed by Peter Stekel project delayed removal until 2004 when the and can persist after their life.” hroughout 2013 Olympic National Park city of Port Angeles, the National Park Service The biggest issue that eventually condemned Tcelebrates its 75th anniversary. A World and the Lower Elwah Klallam Tribe signed a dams on the Elwah River turned out not to Heritage Site and International Biosphere Re- agreement supporting the removal. Wrangling be environmental but a question of econom- serve, Olympic was created on June 29, 1938, over funding delayed initiating any actual ics. Dam removal ultimately came down to a while Franklin D. Roosevelt was president. The work for another seven years. As if waiting business decision. Though Glines Canyon and geographically isolated park contains some for the event for over 100 years, in 2012 the Elwah dams were producing power, they were of our country’s greatest ecological variety in first Chinook salmon returned to the Elwah not producing a lot of power. As American its protected 922,651 acres of glacier-capped River above the former dam sites. Whitewater’s O’Keefe says, “Advocates for mountains, wild Pacific coast and old-growth, Documenting this remarkable story, Mapes dam removal were able to demonstrate that temperate rain forest. interviewed engineers, historians, park visitors, the lumber mill (the primary beneficiary of Until 2011, Olympic was also home to biologists, ecologists, limnologists, Elwah and the Elwah’s power) could implement efficient Glines Canyon Dam and its reservoir, Lake Glines Canyon Dam operators, native plant improvements at their facility that would make Mills, on the Elwah River. Downstream of enthusiasts, Klallam tribal members, policy up for the power lost by dam removal.” Glines and outside the park and surround- makers, community activists and local area In Elwah: A River Reborn, Mapes amply ing national forest is Elwah Dam and Lake residents. She spoke to supporters of dam demonstrates that all political or economic Aldwell. How these dams came to be built removal, and opponents and detractors. stories about our environment or natural — and then removed — is the subject of a Within the 176 pages of Elwah: A River places don’t have to document what we’ve new book, Elwah: A River Reborn, by Seattle Reborn are 125 color photos by Steve Ringman. lost — or might lose in the future. The story Times reporter Lynda V. Mapes. The images are stunning. They both comple- about Elwah River and its dams is the story As the author describes, long before there ment the text, giving visual definition to the of an environmental success. Not only future were dams or a national park on the Olympic author’s words, but also exist as a completely generations but people of today are now able Peninsula the region was home to the Klallam separate work — creating a rare amalgam of to see a watershed within one of our largest tribe. Their villages and camps occupied both educational resource, travelogue and coffee western national parks running free and unfet- sides of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and along table book. tered. As Mapes writes, such things occur not the Elwah River from its mouth at the Strait Elwah: A River Reborn is actually three because of agencies or political processes but to its headwaters deep within the Olympic books in one. Readers will naturally gravitate because the “public makes it happen.” Mountains. Like other tribes in the region, first to leafing through the book to appreciate A spectacular opportunity now exists for salmon was a primary food resource for the Steve Ringman’s photographs. Next, go back park visitors to see river restoration in person Klallam. and read the extensive and elucidating photo and in real time. The NPS has done an excel- One year after construction began on Elwah captions. With, at last, a deep appreciation lent job of interpreting the Elwah River’s new Dam in 1910, all traces of salmon disappeared and comprehension of the story, delve into story to park visitors. Not only the general upstream of the dam site. Power generation the third book by reading the text as Lynda public but park rangers the world over owe at Elwah Dam began in 1914, and in 1927, Mapes details the history of the Elwah River it to themselves to visit Olympic to see the Glines Canyon Dam became operational. and its long hard fight to be free. Elwah River project in action. q When Olympic was eventually expanded by If dam removal seems like a step backward nearly 300,000 acres, Glines Canyon Dam in the progress of civilization, consider what Peter Stekel is author of Final Flight: The Mystery of became a part of the park. Mapes has to say on the subject: “Values a WWII Plane Crash and the Frozen Airmen in the Beginning in 1986, the Klallam tribe and change.” Nothing demonstrates that better High Sierra, and a periodic contributor to Ranger. environmental organizations began petition- than the Elwah River and its dams. Since He lives in Seattle. ing for the two dams’ removal to enable the first dam on the river was completed and restoration of the salmon runs. Within seven electrical generation began in 1914, concepts Are you interested in reviewing a book for years the petition for dam removal garnered of wealth have also changed. The natural envi- Ranger? Contact editor Teresa Ford to sug- Department of the Interior and presidential ronment is now seen to have more value than it gest a book title. [email protected] approval. Nevertheless, opposition to the did 100 years ago. Power from the Bonneville

14 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers The Republic of Nature: An Envi- presenting a fresh and simple premise, that the propriate to focus for a moment on Fiege’s ronmental History of the United events from our past can’t be separated from treatment of the National Park Service. States, Mark Fiege. University of the environment in which they occurred. Our agency is mentioned at the end of the You get a taste of Fiege’s writing style just chapter titled “The Nature of Gettysburg,” Washington Press, 2012. ISBN 978- from chapter titles like “Satan in the Land,” citing superficial preservation treatment of 0-295-99167-2, 584 pages. $34.95, “Nature’s Nobleman,” Atomic Sublime” and the battlefield. But, again it is not Fiege’s hardcover “It’s a Gas.” From these you can surmise that intent to chronicle this nation’s attempts at the book is not a chronological history. Fiege conservation (Department of the Interior, Reviewed by Ken Mabery chose to concentrate on nine topics (chapters), USGS, BLM and Forest Service aren’t even he “War and Peace” of conservation making the case that these set America on its mentioned), rather the events that have Thistory! That was my first reaction on conservation trajectory, and challenging the shaped today’s thinking. receiving this book. Not quite. It is only 584 reader to apply his methods to subjects that he He writes: “Almost from the moment pages and the last 154 pages are endnotes had to leave out of the book, least it become the armies withdrew from Gettysburg, and references. multiple “War and Peace” volumes. Americans sought to commemorate what An associate professor of history at Colo- The first paragraph of each chapter is so had happened there. This was the final and rado State University, Mark Fiege spent close compelling that you often feel like you are perhaps most enduring product of the battle to 15 years almost totally immersed in this reading a novel, except for the superscript refer- ...” project. Quite honestly, to do this book justice ence numbers for endnotes. Well-documented If you follow current debates on preserva- one could write an independent review for stories come alive: “The farewells were quick. tion of Manhattan Project sites, the world each chapter. The mistress said goodbye; the master cursed politics of fossil fuels and today’s energy William Cronon’s foreword states: “This him one last time. Patsey clung to him, tears needs, or a multicultural look into the roots of is surely among the most important works streaming down his face.” (from “King Cotton” conservation in America, read this book. of environmental history published . . . No chapter) Philip DeLoria, University of Michigan one who cares about the American past can This is no ordinary historian’s treatise. Do review says that “. . . this book is better than afford to ignore what Fiege has to say.” not read this book for another reinterpretation excellent. It is truly brilliant . . .” This high praise is based on two primary of conservation writers like Thoreau, Olmstead, Even if you are not given to hyperbole, factors. Fiege’s research is comprehensive; Carson, Roosevelt, Muir, Leopold or Mills (the this book does make you think in different things that I would never have considered latter is not even mentioned). Rather, find ways, and it is a good, engaging read. q as part of our conservation history (such as the fresh interpretation of events that shaped the Salem witch trials) are presented here conservation in America. Ken Mabery is the superintendent of Scotts Bluff and made relevant. Second, Fiege is adept in For readers of Ranger, it is perhaps ap- National Monument.

To Conserve Unimpaired: The Evo- idea until the present. has chosen to concentrate his examination lution of the National Park Idea, Here are conclusions he draws from this on our system’s natural parks. Those readers Robert B. Keiter. Island Press, 2013. fascinating scholarly study, incorporating con- wanting an examination of the evolution of temporary values and knowledge, “if we wish our cultural or historical areas will have to look ISBN 1-59726-660-4, 270 pages. $35, to pass on these magnificent places to future elsewhere. But there is much here to attract paperback generation in an unimpaired condition…”: those readers of Ranger who are interested in • Science must be incorporated into park issues such as snowmobiles in Yellowstone, the Reviewed by Rick Smith resource management policy. re-engineering of the Everglades water supply obert Keiter is the Wallace Stegner pro- • Effective wildlife management entails system, the Devil’s Tower sacred site “climbing Rfessor of law, university distinguished maintaining biodiversity at all levels. moratorium,” tribal and park cooperation on professor and founding director of the Wallace • Park wildlife needs and ecological processes the south unit of Badlands, the rise of science Stegner Center for Land, Resources and the transcend park boundaries and require an to prominence in park decision-making, the Environment at the University of Utah Law ecosystem perspective. explosion of tourism and recreation follow- School. He is a prolific author on public lands • Native Americans have valid treaty-based ing World War II, and the passage of seminal issues and a frequent writer of articles dealing claims and cultural concerns that must be environmental laws (NEPA, the Endangered with the National Park System. addressed through more sensitive manage- Species Act, the Wilderness Act) and their In To Conserve Unimpaired, Keiter views the ment. effects on park management. evolution of the national park idea through • More expansive public education efforts You shouldn’t approach this book as a the prisms of wilderness areas, tourist destina- are essential to promote popular engage- Sunday afternoon read. There are 59 pages of tions, classrooms (reminding us of professor ment in nature conservation. endnotes with legal citations and references to Robin Winks), recreational sites, and native • Nature conservation must be brought public documents, books, magazine articles and tribal homelands. In each of these issues, closer to where people live and introduced and private conversations. Keiter takes us from the origins of our nation’s into the urban setting and minority com- This is a tightly written, well-documented park system, beginning in 1872, and traces the munities. study of 141 years of the evolution of the controversies that guided the evolution of the Looking at this list, it is clear that Keiter national park idea. The range of topics that

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 15 Keiter covers is amazing. He seems to know a Edge here in full: niques and include several examples of reader lot about almost every controversy in which the “In their bid to account for the demise of participation or comments readers have made NPS has been involved during those years. every single person known to have died within to them in the interim between their first I highly recommend this book to those read- the Grand Canyon, the authors transcend the edition and this one. (On the last page, yet ers who seek to deepen their understanding of merely morbid to throw fascinating light on another concise book review by a 9-year-old why the National Park System is where it is. every aspect of the canyon’s history, and pro- boy is reproduced in its entirety.) In several While I would not characterize it as an easy vide masses of useful advice on how to avoid places, Myers and Ghiglieri demonstrate how read, it certainly is a worthwhile one. q becoming another fatality. The morbid stuff’s they have gained more nuanced perspectives Rick Smith, a life member and former president of good too.” about events through communicating with ANPR and the International Ranger Federation, I agree with Ward. Still, I’ll add my readers or experts. retired from the National Park Service after a 31-year thoughts. My biggest difficulty with the book is that career. His last position was as associate regional direc- If these pages were just a thorough overview even at this second printing, the text remains tor of resources management in the former Southwest of what is known about how and why people riddled with grammatical, syntactical and sty- Region. He then served as acting superintendent of died in the Grand Canyon, Over the Edge would listic errors. Many of these errors are unrelated Yellowstone. He lives in New Mexico and Arizona. be worth reading. Yet, the book is much more and minor (thus simply annoying or briefly than a collection of incident reports organized confusing). At times, incidents are simply Over the Edge: Death in Grand by type of mishap. strung together one after another without Canyon, Michael P. Ghiglieri and The authors analyze patterns common to needed transitional language and analysis to fatal events and offer suggestions to preserve provide readers with a sense of context. Thomas M. Myers. Puma Press, 2012 lives in the great chasm. Frequently, the book Better editing would smooth out some (2nd edition). ISBN 0984785809, 586 is like a long-running conversation with two authorial idiosyncrasies, such as needless pages. $24.95, paperback rangers who have both broad and deep exper- repetition of theses in “trying to drive home tise, and both of whom are consumed with a point.” For example, the chapter discussing Reviewed by Maria Abonnel saving future lives. (Neither author is actually a suicides in the Grand Canyon and in public offer two book reviews for Over the Edge: ranger; one is a doctor at Grand Canyon Clinic places generally is insightful and empathetic. IDeath in Grand Canyon: and the other an anthropologist, experienced The authors mention (to chilling effect) that 1. Safety porn, plus. river runner and other occupations). some successful suicides have been found to 2. I’d seen this title repeatedly among the Among many other topics, I picked up be in possession of the first edition of Over books written by National Park Service em- a lot about the history and geology of the the Edge at the time of their self-destruction. ployees and featured in the Coalition of NPS Grand Canyon, its microclimate, wilderness Ghiglieri and Myers take pains, here, to em- Retirees bookstore. Each time I’d dismissed survival skills, certain medical conditions, phasize that their purpose is by no means to it because of its lurid title and cover illustra- administrative history and the phenomenon glorify death or suicide. Part of that effort is tions. Don’t judge a book by its cover, we’re of flash flooding. I read much of this book on to repeatedly assert that suicides are self-cen- all indoctrinated; yet I did. The paperback’s the plane ride home from the Grand Canyon, tered, narcissistic and inconsiderate. It seems front cover sports a collage of a contempo- and I thought to myself that I really ought to unlikely that such assertions would effectively rary scenic photo of the Grand Canyon with have read it before I went. But then again, I’m prevent any potentially suicidal readers from rainbow; an historic Kolb photo of a clothed not sure if knowing all the accounts of hiking acting. This emphasis on berating the suicides skeletal remains of a man who seems to have incidents would have made me overcautious in this way almost overshadows another crucial died while crawling across the rocks; the all- in hiking the trails. insight: that some failed suicides report after caps, blazing, fiery-fonted subtitle “Death in The authors’ writing style is generally their attempt that they changed their mind at Grand Canyon” with an artist’s rendering of refreshingly candid, self-aware, simple and the last minute. two planes in midair about to collide with both straightforward. At times they veer from Because I took the cover art to task, I must one another and the blazing word “Death.” I objectivity, as when they indulge in satire mention that I enjoyed and appreciated Kim feared that the text inside might offer a similar (Ghiglieri’s bathetic depictions of wildly unsafe Besom’s chapter heading illustrations after jumble of sensational elements without any river runner Georgie, for example; and both Puebloan rock art. Still, in terms of visual aids, deeper, edifying purpose. I feared a string authors’ characterizations of certain outlaws they should have provided other graphics, such of war stories told in tones of false humility, who feature in some of the adventures). These as a large map of the entire Grand Canyon in which each superficially different story or occasional diversions in tone can provide re- area on which to locate the various incidents chapter is simply a reiteration of the Old Testa- spite from the overall sense of sadness and loss described, and a good graphic representation of ment-style plot-line: “I/we warned them not naturally inherent to the topic. The authors the Colorado River that would put in context to do X; they ignored the warning; they died convey clearly that their goal is to provide an the numerous mentions of “River Mile 179” (or almost died); too bad.” accurate, transparent, multiperspective and and other river locations. So what finally spurred me to pick up exhaustive accounting of all known deaths in Overall, this edition of Over the Edge edifies, Over the Edge? Someone else’s book review, of the Grand Canyon. This book is a service mis- entertains and provides invaluable service. It’s course. Before my own first trip to the Grand sion for them, and its tone is consistent with provides important safety information for any- Canyon, I skimmed through the Rough Guide that. (There is no trace of the sensationalism one who likes to explore wilderness anywhere; to the Grand Canyon. I quote the review by I feared from the cover.) it’s also vicarious exploration in the best sense of that book’s author, Greg Ward, of Over the They openly discuss their research- tech travel literature. Because the book encompasses

16 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers so many kinds of incidents, the lagniappe is its far-ranging discussion of relevant scientific, The Professional Ranger medical and historical information endemic Authority and Voluntary Separation Incen- to the canyon. Hence, “Safety porn, plus.” Administration tive Payment Authority. To be eligible for More rigorous copyediting throughout Closing the Books on Sequestration — It VERA, employees must have completed at is needed and would yield a more seamless, is that time of year to be kind to your park’s least 20 years of creditable service and be coherent and impactful read. q finance folks as they begin the year-end close- at least age 50, or have completed at least out of the fiscal year. September is always a 25 years of creditable service regardless of Maria Abonnel was an English major who worked for challenging month in the budget world as age. To be eligible for VSIP, employees must several years as an interpretation ranger at Fire Island we close the books on another fiscal year. meet specific criteria. Exploring the use of and Weir Farm. She is currently the website coordinator This year will be most interesting, and it VIRA/VSIP is one new tool that parks can for the Coalition of NPS Retirees. will test our patience and adaptability as we use to plan for a possible higher budget-cut close using the new fiscal program Federal percentage. The NPS is being proactive with Business Management System. As you may this planning exercise to ensure parks are remember, the entire National Park Service Choose green delivery ready to enact another likely budget cut for migrated to this system in November, and fiscal year 2014. Big or small, each park is of Ranger magazine we have been learning it ever since. Now required to submit their plan on how they Receive the electronic version of Ranger that we have conducted an entire fiscal year will operate under another reduced budget in full color — and help save paper and in the program, we must learn how to do while striving to maintain mission-essential postage. the closeout. This will certainly be a stressful activities. Parks will need to be ready to It’s easy to make the switch from the time for the administrative folks so please discuss impacts a budget cut will have to traditional print version of Ranger. E-mail look after them. their operations. the editor at [email protected] and write We can’t help but look ahead warily at the I can’t help but cringe as I look ahead to E-version of Ranger in the subject line. next fiscal year. The budget is still uncertain the next fiscal year. We have a few hurdles Thanks for doing your part to help us de- and we will likely be under a continuing reso- ahead, including keeping employee morale crease the print run and save resources. lution beginning Oct. 1. We have survived up, continuing to learn FBMS, implement- a fiscal year that reflected the sequestration ing what is likely to be another budget cut, that hit parks as a mandatory 5.1 percent ­— and I almost forgot, we even have a new budget cut from the 2012 level. travel program being unveiled this fall!

USNPS Association of National Park Rangers |  Parks have once again been asked to Perhaps we would do well to remember perform a budget planning exercise that in- this from Albert Einstein: “In the middle troduces the possibility of the NPS obtaining of difficulty lies opportunity.” q authority to use Voluntary Early Retirement — Michelle Torok, Saguaro and Tumacácori LIVE THE ADVENTURE Join the National Park Service Interpretation the boundaries.” Even the interpretation of “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and nar- the American Civil War has much to offer A guide to becoming row-mindedness, and many of our people need today’s troubled world if we as interpreters a park ranger with the it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, thought beyond the nationalistic (flag-wav- National Park Service charitable views of men and things cannot be ing) approach to interpretation. Honestly, this acquired by vegetating in one little corner of narrow approach isn’t interpretation at all. It’s the earth all one’s lifetime.” what NPS interpretation legend David Larsen A guide to — Mark Twain referred to as Interpreganda (interpretation as becoming a propaganda), which ignores multiple points of park ranger with the (Inter) National Park Service? — Although view, oversimplifies facts, attempts to force the National Park Service the word national is in our agency’s name, audience to see only one perspective. professional interpreters need to think and act While on a personal vacation to Sweden, ASSOCIATION OF NATIONAL PARK RANGERS beyond the confines of nationalism. Regardless I attended an international conference on www.anpr.org of what some of our professional colleagues, interpretation organized by the European park visitors and politicians may ignore and Association for Heritage Interpretation (www. Stock ANPR’s popular booklet often deny, we live today in a globally inter- interpret-europe.net). The conference was in your park’s bookstore . . . and connected society. Complex issues like climate packed with 166 passionate interpreters from buy a few for yourself, too change, endangered species, ocean stewardship, 40 countries. I was joined at the conference democratic struggle, war, advances in technol- by two professional friends: one an archaeolo- Refer visitors and prospective park employees ogy, and preservation of humanity’s common gist and the other a historian. Like me, both to this informative publication. Go to www. natural and cultural heritage have no national just happened to be on personal vacations in anpr.org/publications.htm for single copies or boundaries. These are all issues common to Sweden. Together we were the only NPS-af- bulk ordering details. Support ANPR. many national and international park sites filiated presence at the conference. We were and in dire need of “interpretation outside not representing the NPS, only ourselves and

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 17 our personal passion for the art and science name the park and describe its significance? If of the best, a close-knit band. One simply does of interpretation. We met park interpreters your park does not have a relationship, could it not get a coveted slot on such a crew unless he from Scotland, Korea, Israel, Austria, Tasma- benefit from one? Is your park a World Heritage is dialed in solid. nia and other countries. They asked where Site? If so, promote and interpret the United To lose an entire crew, save one survivor, of was the NPS presence? Imagine the building Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural such high caliber in a single burnover incident of international goodwill through sharing of Convention World Heritage Site program. is a major blow to the fire service. Even the ideas if the conference had been packed with UNESCO’s mission “seeks to encourage the word “devastating” is an understatement. official NPS presence. The hard reality is that identification, protection and preservation of The tragedy was painfully evident at the the NPS is deeply affected by the degenerative cultural and natural heritage around the world memorial service July 9 in Prescott. Through state of our country’s political and cultural considered to be of outstanding value to human- the magic of YouTube, I viewed every minute myopia. Walls are built physically and men- ity.” There are 21 World Heritage Sites in the of the three-hour ceremony. A firefighter friend tally around our national boundaries. With U.S. Do you know how many of them are of mine, Tim, attended. He’s a former Prescott little or no international vision, interpretation administered by the NPS? Hotshot, and he went to say farewell to two easily falls back on simplistic NPS jingoisms As professional interpreters, we must cor- personal pals, two of the 19. like “America’s Best Idea” and “Experience rect our vision to recognize the NPS mission He described the experience as a thing of Your America” for myopic inspiration. But as having the universal qualities to preserve beauty and love of friends. It was inspiring to consider this: “Sweden’s Best Idea” (or any our common heritage for future generations see wildland and structural firefighters filling other country’s best idea) may be better! of humanity to enjoy. q the auditorium to capacity and spilling into The professional interpreter can play a pow- — Pete Peterson, Grand Canyon the parking lot. It was heartwrenching too. erful role in overcoming the current myopia Representatives from each of the 108 hotshot by finding personal and professional ways to crews were there. Every member of the Prescott see beyond boundaries. Look around your Protection Fire Department was there, made possible park and ask yourself what aspects of your Nineteen More After 19 Years — Nineteen because firefighters from neighboring depart- park’s interpretive themes have a connection years ago, the wildland firefighting community ments provided coverage. to issues of international significance? Include endured an unspeakable loss. On July 6, 1994, Dozens of honor guards were there, these connections in your park’s personal and nine hotshots, three smokejumpers, and two including the National Park Service Fire nonpersonal interpretive services. Do you have helitack firefighters were killed in a massive Honor Guard, showing their respects. As each international visitors in your park? Learn to blowup on the South Canyon Fire on Storm fallen firefighter’s name was read aloud, an greet them in their own language. Recruit an King Mountain outside Glenwood Springs, honor guardsman tolled a single bell, while international volunteer for your park. Colorado. other guardsmen presented the families with a Take Mark Twain’s advice to heart and Now, 19 more, all from the same crew bronzed Pulaski and folded flags. Both Arizona travel. Get outside the U.S. and visit another — the Granite Mountain Hotshots — are and the U.S. Granite Mountain alumni were country’s national parks or heritage sites. Don’t dead after another burnover this past summer. in the front rows wearing their crew T-shirts. have a passport? Get one. Did you know that It happened June 30 on the Yarnell Hill Fire Surviving firefighters from the South Canyon only 30 percent (a generous estimate) of the outside of Prescott, Arizona. Fire were there, too, remembering their own U.S. population holds a passport? Compare Capt. Jesse James Steed of the Granite Hot- tragedy. And the families of the fallen were this to 70 percent of the population of the U.K shots wasn’t quite 19 when the South Canyon there, all weeping tears of sadness, still in with passports. This means that three of five Fire roared up Storm King Mountain. Crew disbelief that their beloved firefighter was Americans can’t even travel to nearby Canada members Kevin J. Woyjeck and Grant Quinn gone. Utterly heartbreaking, a sorrow one can’t to see their “best idea.” Got Banff? Don’t sit McKee were barely 2. Almost a full generation describe. around your park waiting for the current po- ago none of them could have known that they Some tried to put words to the pain, includ- litical myopia to improve. Go on a vacation and their crew would be inextricably linked ing dignitaries from every level of government. and attend an international interpretation with the Storm King Fourteen on the long Vice President Joe Biden attended, and he conference. list of firefighters who’ve given the ultimate described the Hotshots as “men of uncommon Become familiar with the NPS Office of sacrifice in the line of duty. valor . . . a rare breed.” He acknowledged that International Affairs. Visit its website atwww. They’re not the first fire fatalities since Storm “no memorial service can fill the void” when nps.gov/oia. OIA operates on a tiny budget yet King. There have been others: two on Idaho’s loved ones are lost, but he added, “. . . they it continues to help our parks think and act Cramer Fire in 2003, six more on California’s will live on in the hearts of every firefighter outside their boundaries. OIA coordinates the Esperanza Fire in 2006, and others peppered who’s ever answered the call.” International Volunteers-in-Parks Program, throughout the past two decades. In terms of The presiding pastor asked God in his promotes NPS involvement in the World pure numbers, these 19 represent the single opening prayer to “bind up the wounds of Heritage Site Convention, and develops “Sister worst tragedy since the Big Burn of 1910 the brokenhearted.” Dan Bates, from a local Park” relationships between the U.S. and other swept across the northern Rockies from eastern firefighters association, quoted Jeremiah 29:11: countries. The OIA’s Sister Park Program’s Washington to western Montana. “For I know the plans I have for you, declares motto is “Sharing Lessons Learned from the The Granite Mountain Hotshots had a the Lord,” when he said that God himself placed National Park Idea.” Currently, 29 NPS units wealth of firefighting experience among a the Granite Mountain Hotshots in Prescott as (including a national battlefield) have sister healthy mix of seasoned veterans and youthful, part of a divine plan. He called them “saints park relationships. If you work at a NPS unit strong up-and-comers. As is the case with any placing a guarded hand over Prescott.” The gov- that has an international sister park, can you Hotshot crew, Granite Mountain was the best ernor of Arizona echoed this sentiment, saying

18 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers the hotshots were “…in A N P R the gentle em- brace of God CTIONS & NEW and continue A S to protect.” ANPR board needs your ideas on members, both nationally and internationally, Several speak- fundraising during tight times with nearly 150 members attending the an- ers pointed out The ANPR board is tackling the serious issue nual convention. The presentation concerned the crew’s mot- of financial stability and fundraising for the the purpose and missions of ANPR and the to: “Esse quam association. As every member understands International Ranger Federation, highlight- videri,” which translates: “To be rather than from professional and personal experience, ing the stewardship work and programs each to seem to be.” Darrell Willis, the “father” of acquiring the necessary finances to adequately performs for the benefit of the parks, visitors the Granite Mountain Hotshots, summed it up sustain lives, work and mission is often fraught and each other. A related discussion focused this way: “These guys were the real deal, right with circumstances and conditions beyond on ANPR’s plan to host the Eighth World and tight, authentic in their purpose.” individual control and often limited means Ranger Congress in 2016. It has been said that it’s not tragic to die of support. The mutual interest that NPTC and doing what you love. These young men were The phrase “we survive on the generous ANPR hold for the NPS led to discussions doing what they loved — fighting fire — but backs of our members” is often uttered in regard on cooperation between the organizations in it’s tragic that they died doing what they loved to the work of ANPR. It is the hallmark of stewardship support for the parks. The NPTC while they were young. our association — individual members giving asked for ANPR member assistance to link the I was young when the South Canyon Fire from their limited means, through membership Travelers Club directly to parks. This would blew up; 25 years old, on a fire crew passing dues and individual donations, for the benefit include NPTC as a source for volunteers to through Glenwood Springs on our way to a of the whole. conduct “sweat equity” service projects for different fire. Less than two hours later 14 were The funding supports important programs the parks. With members in all 50 states and dead. The event rocked my world. and organization business, and without them, regions, the NPTC membership could be of Nineteen years later I’m striving to become ANPR could not print our quarterly journal considerable assistance to individual parks in a division supervisor, and incidents like the Ranger, fund the oral history project, conduct need of volunteers for service projects. Yarnell Hill Fire weigh heavily on my mind. an annual professional conference with asso- “We are a diverse people, from avid back- Leading other firefighters into the “breath ciated training, materially support programs packers and hikers to windshield tourists, and of the dragon,” having their welfare on my associated with the work of the International from cultural sites to natural,” said incoming shoulders, gives me pause. Ranger Federation, or pay for day-to-day busi- NPTC president Nancy Bandley. “That is our Earlier this year I visited the Fallen Fire- ness practices. Like our mother agency and national parks, and that is also our (NPTC) fighter Memorial in Prineville, Oregon, hon- sister organizations, the business of ANPR membership.” oring the Storm King Fourteen. I vowed to currently operates within a period of belt ANPR members, either currently employed incorporate what I learned there at my park’s tightening. with the NPS or retired, are encouraged to wildfire refresher next year, which will mark the Thus, the ANPR board seeks member forward Bandley’s contact information directly 20th anniversary of that tragedy. I also plan to involvement, ideas and comments about to interested park volunteer coordinators. She somehow honor the Yarnell Hill Nineteen. fundraising concepts and programs. If ANPR can be reached at [email protected]. q Of all the firefighters at the memorial is going to survive through periods of financial service, one stood out in particular: Brendan limitation, it will only be accomplished by Affordable health insurance McDonough, the lone survivor from the calling upon the professional experience and through ANPR & Transamerica Yarnell Hill burnover. When introduced, abilities of the entire membership. www.anpr.org/insurance.htm he received a standing ovation that honored The board needs your ideas toward gen- him and his crew. It also communicated an erating funds to operate and perform the Professional liability insurance work of ANPR. Please forward fundraising overwhelming sense of gratefulness that at discounted from Wright USA least one of the crew was spared to tell their ideas directly to any board member. Contact story. He courageously took the podium and information is posted at www.anpr.org and on www.anpr.org/liability.htm honored his crew the best way he knew how: the back cover of Ranger. In turn, the board by reciting “The Hot Shot’s Prayer:” will pool the ideas and suggestions received Life members: Please send your “For if this day on the line… for further examination and action. email address to Ranger editor I should answer death’s call… Teresa Ford, [email protected], to Lord, bless my hot shot crew… National Park Travelers Club My family, one and all.” seeks ANPR assistance get on ANPR’s email list. We send He closed with the simplest and purest of The National Park Travelers Club invited occasional emails to update the messages: “I miss my brothers.” q ANPR president Stacy Allen to speak at its membership about association — Kevin Moses annual convention in July at Corinth, Mis- business, but we are missing Buffalo National River sissippi. Shiloh National Military Park served as the featured host NPS site. The NPTC contact information for about is currently comprised of more than 1,000 30 percent of life members.

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 19 ANPR Reports

Kudos List These people have either given a gift member- ship to a new member or recruited a new or old member to return to ANPR. Thanks for your membership help. Liam Strain Teresa Ford Gannon Frain Kathy Grant Seth Tinkham Mark Herberger Amelia Bruno Jin Prugsawan Dick Martin Jessica Browning Alison Steiner Matt Blythe Katie Ehler Sandy Tennyson Michael Matthes Cindy Purcell ProMotive.com connects you BBQ in California marks to name-brand discounts ANPR regional gathering If you’re in the market for some new outdoor Nearly 20 ANPR members and their families gear, join ANPR’s ProMotive team for deep enjoyed a regional gathering in late July in Three discounts on many products. The savings could Rivers, Calif., near Sequoia National Park. easily pay back the price of your ANPR mem- Members came from Sequoia and Kings bership. As long as you continue your ANPR Canyon, Manzanar and the BLM Hollister membership you are eligible to remain on the field office. team. It isn’t dependent on job status with the President-elect Erika Jostad spoke briefly National Park Service. Email [email protected] about ANPR’s oral history project and the for sign-up details. upcoming World Ranger Congress, which ANPR will host in 2016. She also talked about We need more mentors the value of ANPR’s mentoring program. See program details at www.anpr.org/ The gathering included a potluck barbecue mentoring.htm. Contact the program and lawn games, and it provided members with coordinators to volunteer as a mentor: a great networking opportunity. Roberta D’Amico, joro.boise@gmail. If you want to organize a regional gathering com, and Ken Bigley, kbigley172@ in your area, contact Teresa Ford, fordedit@aol. gmail.com. com, for assistance in publicizing the event to nearby ANPR members. ANPR’s award-winning ‘Lost . . . But Found, Shop online & earn Safe and Sound’ video money for ANPR New insurance options Available on DVD Link to iGive from the ANPR website, then Insurance plans for identity theft protection Designed to show go to your preferred shopping sites. A portion and legal access are now available to ANPR children, ages 4-12, what of your sales will go back to ANPR. When you members. to do if they become lost shop at the nearly 700 brand-name online in remote areas such as The LifeLock Benefit Solutions will protect parks or forests. retailers, a percentage automatically goes to you against identify theft. The cost starts at $9 n n n ANPR. Give it a try — your support to ANPR monthly for an individual. is greatly appreciated. Start at www.anpr.org. DVD: $6 for ANPR members, $10 for oth- The Legal Access Family Plan, for $14.25 a ers; VHS: $4 for members, $6 for others; also month, provides legal coverage to a member, available in CD-ROM PowerPoint presenta- Give a friend or spouse and children. tion; quantity discounts available; credit card work colleague Full details and enrollment links are on payment (Visa/MC) accepted ANPR’s website: www.anpr.org/other.htm an ANPR Order online at www.anpr.org/lost.htm membership! The limited-benefits health insurance plan through Transamerica also is detailed on the Questions? Details website. Beginning later this fall further in- Contact ANPR’s business office: on page 25. formation will be available about new plans 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222 Golden, CO 80401 • [email protected] resulting from federal health care reform.

20 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers Dan Donovan. © St. Louis Convention & Visitors Commission, used with permission Dan Donovan. © St. Louis Convention & Visitors

Come to St. Louis in October for annual Ranger Rendezvous egister now for Ranger Rendezvous 36 world’s most popular search engine, join us to and “Explore the Possibilities.” This see and learn about emerging technologies that Allison Barnes Logo design by annual event is scheduled for Oct. will help shape the NPS in the future. Breakout groups and evening events 27-31R at the Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark Michele Weslander Quaid, Google’s chief Daily breakout groups and evening events will in St. Louis, Missouri. technology officer and innovation evangelist, provide opportunities to develop professionally Here are five reasons why you need to visit has a copy of the director’s Call to Action and and personally. the ANPR website (www.anpr.org) to sign up will show how we can use Google technologies • Hear from WASO representatives and for the Rendezvous. to better serve and protect our parks. Google the seasonal recruiting office about hiring 1. Experience and explore new perspectives also will have a team to answer questions processes. for a changing National Park Service about the technology on your computer, and • Learn more about rangering worldwide. landscape. how you can better use it to streamline park • Join the annual ANPR service project 2. Speak with NPS leaders and be heard. communications and manage your day-to-day and show your support of the St. Louis 3. Participate in professional training. operations. community. 4. Network with other attendees. Two training courses will be offered • Enjoy the ever-popular NPS film night. 5. Begin to decode the hiring system. — Operational Leadership Facilitator Skills • Get social during evening events — dinner, The program includes the familiar with the and Mountain Medicine in National Parks. conversation and ranger trivia games. cutting edge. See the online agenda for program details The Jefferson National Expansion Memo- Peggy O’Dell, NPS deputy director for and how to sign up. Both courses are free to rial, site of Gateway Arch, will host several operations, will speak about the future of participants. events. The St. Louis area has a rich historical the agency. Her insights should help inform heritage with a diverse culture, superb enter- your perspectives about your park site and its Hotel, room sharing, raffle, photos tainment venues and good food. Visit www. operations. Hotel rooms will run $109 a night for a double. explorestlouis.com for more details. Dr. Gary Machlis, NPS science adviser, will Our room block expires after Oct. 4, so reserve A final thought: Did you know that the talk about preparing a contemporary version of a room now at 877-845-7354. ANPR will St. Louis Cardinals have the best schedule in the 1963 Leopold Report to confront modern coordinate room and ride sharing to help keep Major League Baseball? It’s possible that the challenges in natural and cultural resource the conference affordable for attendees. Rendezvous and the World Series may happen management. Join the conversation as we Remember to bring a few items for the raffle, in St. Louis simultaneously. rethink resource stewardship in the national but if you can’t attend the Rendezvous, ship Register for the Rendezvous today and parks. your raffle items to the hotel. In addition, bring book your room at the Hilton St. Louis at This year’s Rendezvous has a technology your best images to enter in the photography the Ballpark. You don’t want to get shut out twist — Google. If you thought you knew the contest. See www.anpr.org for full details. by the World Series. USNPS

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 21 helped administer,” Jerry said. “I can’t imagine ranger/pilot. His final move to Voyageurs All in the Family working and playing with a more dedicated, completed his protection ranger career, and inspirational and adventuresome cadre of the reward was developing the Midwest Region Ranger Send your news to Teresa Ford, editor: people. all-hazard incident management team. Jim, [email protected] or 25958 Genesee Trail Road, “Being able to live, work and play in these an ANPR life member, and his wife, Mary, PMB 222, Golden, CO 80401. You also can special places is a privilege not many are able live in International Falls, Minn. Future plans send All in the Family news and update contact to experience. I feel very lucky to have shared include continued flying, teaching opportu- www.anpr.org. information at ANPR’s website: many grand adventures with co-workers and nities at Albright Training Center and DOI Member Services Go to . friends.” water ditching classes, home improvement He loved his career and never aspired projects, fishing on Rainy Lake, traveling and to retire. However, his wife and best friend short-term mission trips. He can be reached Shawn started a job with the Department of at [email protected]. q State Foreign Service last spring. Jerry is ac- companying her — around the world — as part of her new career. Their first post began in August in Lome, Togo, West Africa. He can Letters be reached at [email protected]. (continued from inside front cover) Thank you, rangers Jim Hummel retired Dec. 7, 2012, after 35 While visiting Washington, D.C., in late July, years of service, the last 13 years as chief ranger a friend and I encountered a number of park and pilot at Voyageurs. He began his NPS rangers who were so helpful and informative. career as a seasonal ranger at Great Smoky One especially, a young ranger, worked in the Mountains, then went to Apostle Islands. After house opposite Ford’s Theater where President a brief stint with the Army Corps of Engineers Lincoln passed away. We think his name was at Clark Hill Lake, he accepted a permanent Chris. His patient and kind explanation of ranger position at Gulf Islands. Five years later those times to two white-haired ladies was Jerry Case — then and now he transferred to Bryce Canyon, before mov- exceptional and appreciated. ing north to Wrangell-St. Elias where he was Please compliment all of of the ranger staff able to complete pilot training and begin his located at all the monuments. They made our dream as a district ranger and pilot in Alaska. visit very special. Thank you. After eight years he went to Katmai as chief Mary Reifeiss

Welcome (or welcome back) to the ANPR family! Here are the newest members of the Association of National Park Rangers: Kristin Anderson...... Yosemite, CA Bruce & Rosemary Tony Ashdown...... Elkridge, MD Moorhead...... Port Angeles, WA Zachary Bolick...... Hendersonville, TN Theresa Morringiello...... Shelton, CT Jeremy Childs...... Madison, TN Jesse Nivolo...... Litchfield, CT Rebekah Claussen...... Socorro, NM George Osborne...... Galveston, TX Marc Collier...... Moose, WY Darby Robinson...... Ashland, OR Rob & Mary Danno...Shepherdstown, WV PJ Ryan...... Wheaton, MD Doug Dawson...... Kanab, UT Andrew Sexton...... Sevierville, TN ANPR life member Jerry Case retired July 29 Ken Ferguson...... Washington, DC Joe Sobinovsky...... Martinsburg, WV after 39 years of service. He began his career Robert Friend...... North Branch, MI Angela Steffey...... Martinsburg, WV cleaning toilets seasonally at Lake Powell, and Joseph Gallegos...... El Portal, CA Hallie Stevens...... Atlantic Beach, FL ended it in Montana as superintendent of Big- Geoffrey Havens...... Springfield, MO Karen Stoeber...... Edwardsville, IL horn Canyon. In between, it was a marvelous Devin Haynes...... Virginia Beach, VA Deryl Stone...... Fenton, MO ride that took him from myriad islands (Gulf Paul Holthouse...... Springdale, UT Jennifer Swacina...... Three Rivers, CA Islands, Isle Royale, the Big Island of Hawai`i) Leslie Johnson...... Three Rivers, CA Jim Syvertsen...... Lake Stevens, WA to southeast Alaska, Washington, Everglades, Jamie Kennedy...... Medora, ND Tracy Thetford...... Three Rivers, CA central California and the Washington Office. Leigh Lindstrom...... Long Beach, CA Douglas Thompson...... Capitan, NM He worked in maintenance, interpretation, law Courtney Mackay...... Springdale, UT Chris Trotter.... Sequoia National Park, CA enforcement and management. Tyler Martin...... Rexburg, ID David Weber...... Washington, DC “I am grateful and appreciative to have Gavin McGimpsey...... Idaho Falls, ID Carmedy West...... Bar Harbor, ME had such a rewarding career protecting and Maureen McLean...... Ashford WA Matthew Whitney...... Springfield, IL enjoying our nation’s magnificent national Kenneth Minck...... St. Albans, VT Peter Winfrey...... Torrance, CA park sites, and to wake up every day for four Justin Monetti...... Malverne, NY decades proud of the Park Service mission I 22 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers “Many Park Rangers risk and sometimes lose Life Century Club Members IRF Update their lives in their brave efforts to protect our world’s most special endangered places and Life members who contribute an additional animals. In fact, over 1,000 Park Rangers $125 are recognized in the Second Century World Ranger Day recognized by Club. Third Century membership can be at- have paid the ultimate price during the last Prince William tained by contributing an additional amount 10 years. The staggering sacrifice that you Prince William and Prince Henry showed inter- to bring your total life membership to $500; and your colleagues have paid underlines just est in worldwide ranger and conservation work Fourth Century membership can be attained during a meeting earlier this year attended by how dangerous – and how critical – your by contributing an additional amount to bring IRF President Sean Willmore. This meeting work is. You are the frontline, the thin your total life membership to $750; Fifth Cen- on illegal wildlife trade was held at St. James green line of the planet’s critical conservation tury to $1,000; and Sixth Century to $1,250 Palace in the United Kingdom. battle. or more. Subsequently, Prince William issued and “I have been pleased to learn about the work If you are a life member, consider raising signed a public message in commemoration of the International Ranger Federation and your contribution to the next level. of World Ranger Day, observed each year on the work of charities such as the Thin Green 2nd Century Club July 31: Line to celebrate all you do and to support Lawrence Belli Ron Konklin “It is my great honour to acknowledge the you and your families and communities. Tony Bonanno Bob Krumenaker brave and tireless work of the world’s Park On this World Ranger Day, please know Jim Brady Mary Kimmitt Laxton Rangers on the frontline of conservation on that my thoughts are with you and that I, Paul Broyles Tomie Patrick Lee Rod Broyles John Mangimeli the occasion of World Ranger Day. along withg so many others, are in awe of David Buccello Colleen Mastrangelo “I am aware from personal experience just your selfless brave work – you have my total Patricia Buccello Jack Morehead how important the work of Park Rangers admiration. Robert Butterfield Rick Mossman is: to protect landscapes and species from “Happy World Ranger Day.” Michael Caldwell Aniceto Olais poaching and illegal logging and forest clear- William Carroll Tim Oliverius

ing, to spot bushfires and the early signs of Cliff Chetwin Cindy Ott-Jones For other updates on IRF activities, visit disease, and to encourage visitors to explore Bruce Collins Bundy Phillips the website at www.internationalrangers.org. some of the world’s most stunning areas. Bruce Edmonston Bill Pierce Travel well. q Without you, the world would be a very A.J. Ferguson Tom Richter Mitch Fong Bryan Swift different place. — Tony Sisto, International Affairs Hal Grovert Mark Tanaka-Sanders Dr. Russell Clay Dale & Judy Harvey Thompson Larry Henderson Victor Vieira Keith Hoofnagle Karen Wade James Hummel Philip Ward Steve Hurd Kathy Williams Craig Johnson Janice Wobbenhorst Margaret Johnston Phil Young 3rd Century Club Erin Broadbent Dave Lattimore Dennis Burnett Dan Moses & Ginny Rousseau Alden Nash Carl Christensen William Quinn Kathleen Clossin Edward Rizzotto Maureen Finnerty Teresa Shirakawa Rebecca Harriett Barry Sullivan Steve Holder John Townsend Mary Karraker 4th Century Club Deanne Adams Scot McElveen & Tony Sisto Bruce & Georjean Vaughn Baker McKeeman Jonathan Lewis Jean Rodeck Deborah Liggett Rick Smith Jay Liggett Nancy Wizner 5th Century Club 6th Century Club Rick Erisman Dick Martin Butch Farabee

9th Century Club 10th Century Club Wendy Lauritzen Stacy Allen Bill Wade

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 23 Nyala West: How did you see things shift after 9/11?

Sullivan: Prior to that event, our protection program was focused on protecting the resource from fire or poaching. We were looking at protecting visitors from a criminal element that might come in. We never looked at the National Park Service as being the potential object of a terrorist attack. When we started to look at the resources of our nation, six of the top 10 targets in the United States were national parks. And we managers started to realize that things had to change particularly quickly. The Liberty Bell in Philadelphia, for example . . . Our previous protection program there was if someone was smoking marijuana out in front, we dealt with it. We weren’t thinking about a terrorist car bomb coming into the Liberty Bell and trying to blow the Liberty Bell up. We weren’t prepared for it. So we started to look at ways to defend these iconic sites. The Statue of Liberty was shut down, for example, till we could figure out a strategy. ‘No one really knew We started to look at Gateway National Recreation Area vis-à-vis New York City. How could we use park resources for emergency what was going to happen’ response? Floyd Bennett Field was used as Ranger Barry Sullivan: An interview with historian Hannah Nyala West a Red Cross shelter for emergency response helicopters, for instance. We started to work ANPR’s oral history project preserves per- at Fire Island. I called the commander of the with the New York City Office of Emergency sonal memories of shared public events. Inter- U.S. Park Police, who I knew pretty well, and Management to [understand] how park assets viewed at the Ranger Rendezvous in 2012, Barry said, “Major, I’m sure you don’t even know—no could augment New York City in the event of Sullivan traced a career that began in 1976 as a one knows—what’s going on, but I would any future attacks. seasonal ranger at Edison National Historic Site voluntarily send our two 41-foot patrol boats So 9/11 really did have a profound effect. We and ended in 2010 as superintendent of Gateway down with a full ranger staff to help protect the started to look at the protection responsibility National Recreation Area. On Sept.11, 2001, he was the deputy superintendent in charge of Statue of Liberty, if you felt that they would of the Park Service in a much broader, much

USNPS operations at Fire Island National Seashore in be of benefit.” He thanked me profusely, said bigger way than we had prior to that day. New York City. Join us as we talk. he wasn’t sure what they would do with them, Barry T. Sullivan is retired and lives in New Jersey. but it would take about an hour and a half for Hannah Nyala West is a historian, ethnographer, and the boats to get there. So by noon that day, consultant for oral history and tribal oral traditions he plane struck the World Trade Center I had ordered our boats with a staff of about projects. She teaches at the University of Wiscon- around a quarter to 10, if I recall cor- six on each to New York City, and they were sin–Stevens Point. rectly. We could see a slight cloud of immediately sent to secure the perimeter of Tsmoke from Manhattan from where we were the Statue of Liberty. The oral history project is financed by the — it was a clear day. I had worked at Gateway It was a very interesting day. No one — no Rick Gale Memorial Fund. Many remember and was very familiar with New York City. I one really knew what was going to happen. Rick, one of the founders of ANPR and a long- knew the layouts. I knew what the park police Several of the folks from the Long Island serving president, as a moving force of the and the park ranger staff had at Gateway and area where we lived lost their lives that day. organization. With his passing in 2009, ANPR at the Statue of Liberty. I knew what their Several [of my children’s] friends lost parents established a memorial fund, which his family and the board agreed to use for the oral history resources were. I was still in law enforcement that day. It was a very emotional day for Long project. The audio recordings and transcriptions at the time, and I knew, because I had been an Island. In the coming weeks and months, we will be archived at the Harpers Ferry Center in incident commander in several large events, were sending all of our rangers in uniforms to West Virginia. what they would be going through in those funerals of firefighters and law enforcement. You can continue Rick’s legacy with a tax- first couple hours. There were so many funerals out there on the deductible donation. This will help pay for tran- We had two 41-foot oceangoing patrol same day that there literally weren’t enough scription services for these important interviews. boats, actually converted Coast Guard boats, uniformed people to properly pay respect. Please visit www.anpr.org/donate.htm.

24 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION — Association of National Park Rangers  New Member(s)  Renewing Member(s) Date ______Name of ANPR member we may thank for encouraging you to join ______

Name(s) ______4-letter code of park / office where you work ______(Retiree=RETI, Former NPS Employee=XNPS, Student/Educator=EDUC, Park Supporter=PART) Address ______Home phone ______City ______State ______Zip+4 ______Personal e-mail address ______ANPR will use e-mail as an occasional – but critical – communication tool. We will not share your information with any other organization. It is our policy not to conduct ANPR business via NPS e-mail or phone. Payment by Visa or MasterCard accepted: Type of Membership (check one) Visa ______MasterCard ______NOTE: The annual membership renewal notification is each fall with an annual membership period of Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. Membership for those who join Oct. 1 or after will last the entire next year. Card # ______

Active Members Expiration date ______current & former NPS employees or volunteers Name on Account______Individual Joint • Seasonal/Intern/Volunteer  $45  $85 Signature ______• Permanent or Retiree  $75  $145

Associate Members Please mark your job discipline: not an NPS employee or representative of another organization ____ Protection • Sustaining  $70 ____ Interpretation • Full-time Student  $45 ____ Administration

____ Resources Life Members (lump sum payment) ____ Maintenance ACTIVE (all NPS employees/retirees) ASSOCIATE (other than NPS employees) Individual  $2,500 Individual  $2,500 ____ Concessions Joint  $3,000 Joint  $3,000 ____ Park Partner ____ Other – list: ______OR life payments made be made in three installments over a three-year period. Rates are $850 per year for individual or $1,025 for joint. If full payment isn’t received by the third installment due date, the amount paid shall be applied at the current annual membership rates until exhausted. At that point the membership will be Special Supporters lapsed. Check here if you want to make payments in three installments ______. Contact the president or fundraising board member for details on special donations. Check the website  Gift Membership $35 (please gift only a new member other than yourself, one year only) at www.anpr.org/donate-ack.htm Name of person giving gift ______

Library / Associate Organization Membership (two copies of each issue of Ranger sent quarterly)  $100

It costs ANPR $45 a year to service a membership. If you are able to add an additional donation, please consider doing so. Thank you! Return membership form and  $10  $25  $50  $100  Other ______check payable to ANPR to:

TOTAL ENCLOSED: ______Association of National Park Rangers 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222 Membership dues in excess of $45 a year may be tax deductible. Consult your tax adviser. Golden, CO 80401

Send news to: Teresa Ford, Editor Share your news with others! [email protected] or Ranger will publish your job or family 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222 news in the All in the Family section. Golden, CO 80401 or visit ANPR’s website: www.anpr.org and Name ______go to Member Services page Past Parks — Use four-letter acronym/years at each park, field area, cluster (YELL 98-02, GRCA 02-07) ______New Position (title and area) ______Old Position (title and area) ______Address/phone number (optional — provide if you want it listed in Ranger)______Other information ______

RANGER • Fall 2013 u 25 Non-Profit Organization U.S. Postage PAID Golden, CO Association of National Park Rangers Permit No. 158 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222 Golden, CO 80401

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Printed on recycled paper Directory of ANPR Board Members, Task Group Leaders & Staff Board of Directors

President Membership Services Strategic Planning Stacy Allen, Shiloh Gannon Frain, Great Basin Alison Steiner, Sequoia & Kings Canyon (731) 689-3451 • [email protected] (646) 707-0475 • [email protected] (203) 675-6646 • [email protected]

President-elect Professional Issues Erika Jostad, Sequoia & Kings Canyon Jessica Korhut, Denali Task Group Leaders (559) 335-2840 • [email protected] (307) 272-2118 • [email protected] International Affairs Tony Sisto, Retired Secretary Seasonal Perspectives (510) 633-1282 • [email protected] Paula Alexander, Lincoln Boyhood Jason Allen, Yellowstone (812) 937-4541 • [email protected] (406) 381-7535 • [email protected] Ranger Editorial Adviser Kendell Thompson, Lincoln Boyhood Treasurer Special Concerns (703) 927-1029 • [email protected] Jamie Bertram Amy Gilbert, United Nations Foundation (317) 508-9519 • [email protected] (703) 731-4268 • [email protected] Business Operations Education and Training ANPR Business Address Ben Walsh 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222, Golden, CO 80401 704-614-2958 • [email protected] Teresa Ford, Membership Services Director USNPS Fundraising Activities Ranger Editor, ANPR Website Coordinator Seth Tinkham, Washington Office Stay in touch Teresa Ford (571) 451-9627 • [email protected] 25958 Genesee Trail Road, PMB 222, Golden, CO 80401 www.anpr.org Office & fax • (303) 526-1380 • [email protected] Internal Communications www.facebook.com/parkrangers Jeremy Kaufman News, features, Financial Operations (203) 809-2546 • [email protected] Jamie Bertram member services — and more (317) 508-9519 • [email protected] 26 t ANPR • Association of National Park Rangers