Dvorci, kurije i njihovi vlasnici Dva dvorca u Oroslavju

Barokna baština bez baštinika Oroslavje Gornje, glavno zapadno pročelje, početak 20. st. Izvor: zbirka Ščitaroci Oroslavje Gornje, main western façade, beginning of the 20th century Source: Ščitaroci

lomično sačuvani. Usprkos takvu stanju, Napisali: akademik Mladen Obad Perivoj nestalog vrijedno je na njih podsjetiti i posjetiti ih Šćitaroci i prof. dr. sc. Bojana Bojanić jer se u mjestu osjeća njihova emanacija. dvorca Oroslavje Obad Šćitaroci Oroslavski dvorci primjer su kulturnog Gornje valja zaštititi naslijeđa koje propada – baštine bez baš- ijetko su u jednome mjestu dva tinika. Nažalost, ilustriraju stanje većine i spriječiti amaterske dvor ca. Takvo je Oroslavje u Hr- dvoraca u Hrvatskoj. obnove i improvizacije vat skom zagorju, naselje koje se Dva oroslavska dvorca i dva posjeda, Rjače razvilo tek u prvoj polovici 20. sto- koji su imali različite vlasnike, imaju za- jer prilikom obnove ljeća. Udaljeni 300 metara jedan od dru- nim ljivu prošlost povezanu sa životom goga, u središtu Oroslavja nalaze se dva ug lednih plemićkih obitelji. Oroslavje kulturnoga naslijeđa dvor ca. Sudbina im nije bila naklonjena. Gor nje je stariji posjed i dvorac. Krajem nisu dovoljni samo Dvo rac Oroslavje Gornje odavno je ne- 16. i početkom 17. stoljeća postojala je stao, a na njegovu je mjestu izgrađena ku rija, a dvorac je izgrađen u prvoj po lo- entuzijazam i dobra tvor nička hala koja se odavno ne koristi. vici 17. stoljeća, dok je dvorac u Oro slav- Dvo rac Oroslavje Donje je prazan, u lo- ju Donjem izgrađen krajem 18. sto ljeća. namjera šem sta nju, gotovo devastiran, posebice Oba su dvorca bili vrsni primjeri ar hi tek- nje gova unutrašnjost. Perivoji su tek dje- tonskog i umjetničkog ostvarenja svoga 86 TWO CASTLES IN OROSLAVJE BAROQUE HERITAGE WITHOUT AN HEIR

Oroslavje Gornje, neoromantičarski perivoj, pogled iz istočnog krila dvorca, početak 20. st. Oroslavje Gornje, Neo-Romantic park, view from eastern wing of the castle, beginning of 20th century doba – Oroslavje Gornje ranog baroka, a Vlasnici: Ratkaji, Čikulini, Oroslavje Donje kasnog baroka. Osobita Sermage, Vranyczany, Vojkovići PARK AROUND THE ONETIME vrijednost bile su stropne i zidne slike, kao Najstariji vlasnici posjeda Oroslavje OROSLAVJE GORNJE CASTLE i perivoji. Gor nje bili su grofovi Ratkaji (do 1614.), U dvorce su zalazili poznati umjetnici. poz nati po dvorcima Veliki Tabor, Milja- IS WORTH PRESERVATION U Oroslavju Gornjem dvaput je boravio na i Velika Horvatska u desinićkom kra ju. Franz Liszt, klavirski virtuoz u 19. stoljeću. U njihovo doba vjerojatno je u Orosla vju AND TO BE PREVENTED FROM Na putu iz Graza u i povratku, Gornjem postojala kurija. Nakon Rat- AMATEUR RECONSTRUCTION Dioniz Sermage ugostio je glazbenog kaja vlasnici su grofovi Čikulini (1614.- umjetnika, 26. i 28. srpnja 1846. Početkom 1746.), a njih nasljeđuju grofovi Ser mage AND IMPROVISATION 20. stoljeća u tom je dvorcu boravio slikar od Susedgrada (1746.-1885.), koji su u Vlaho Bukovac, portretirajući vlasnika jed nom trenutku u Hrvatskoj posje do- BECAUSE ENTHUSIASM AND Lu ju Vranyczanya i slikajući dvorac. Na vali 24 dvorca i kurije. U svom su grbu GOOD INTENT ARE NOT po ziv grofa Vojkovića-Vojkff ya, sredinom nosili geslo kao i Zrinski: Arte et marte 19. stoljeća u Oroslavju Donjem boravio (Perom i mačem). Rikard Sermage 1885. SUFFICIENT FOR THE REVIVAL je sli kar Ivan Zasche, poznat po grafi kama pro daje dvorac i posjed Oroslavje Gor nje Mak simira u grafi čkoj mapi Jurjaves iz Ljudevitu-Luji Vranyczanyu-Dobrino vi- OF CULTURAL HERITAGE 1853. godine. ć u, koji je obnovio dvorac, ali njegov ba - 87 rok ni izgled nije mijenjao. Posjedovao ga komu nistička vlast konfi scirala je sve nje- dvorcu je bilo 15 soba na katu, 18 postelja, je do 1921. godine. Lujo je dao izgra diti gove posjede. 23 stola različitih velič ina i oblika, nekoliko p alaču Vranyczany na Zrinjevcu u Za- pisaćih stolova (sekretera) i brojnog drugog grebu (u kojoj je danas Moderna galerija), Ranobarokni dvorac Oroslavje pokućstva te čak 502 sli ke na zidovima, od a njegova su braća u Hrvatskom zagorju Gornje kojih 422 bakroreza i 13 portreta. posjedovali dvorce Mirkovec, Sveti Križ Ne znamo tko je i kada sagradio ne- Nakon 1885. Ljudevit Vranyczany ob- Začretje, Gornju Bedekovčinu i Laduč. stali dvorac Oroslavje Gornje. Pret po- navlja dvorac, ne mijenjajući bitno ba rokni Lujo je bio Strossmayerov pristaša u po- stavlja se da je dvorac gradio Julije Čikulin izgled. Na ulaznom zapadnom pročelju litičkoj borbi za samostalnost Hrvatske, (1580.-1634.) koji je nekoliko važnih obi- 1904. dograđuje se klasicistička altana na poz nat i kao mecena mnogih umjetnika. telj skih isprava izdao baš u Oroslavju. Na osam stupova, prema projektu Ignjata Fis- Oroslavje Donje posjedovala je obi- te melju povijesnih isprava zna se da je u chera. U Vranyczanyevo doba istočno kri- telj Vojković koja je pripadala starom hr - 16. stoljeću postojala kasnorenesansna lo dvorca bilo je namijenjeno kuhinjsko- vat skom plemenskom plemstvu, pa im je kurija grofova Ratkaja. Prema starim aus- ser visnim prostorijama, u južn o m s u k r i l u ugarsko-hrvatski kralj Bela IV. dodi je lio trijskim kartama, čini se da je novi barokni bile sobe članova obitelji, u sjevernom so- pod ručje Klokoča gdje je bio Voj ko vić- dvorac izgrađen pokraj kurije koja je sta- be za goste, a zapadno krilo s pogledom grad (nedaleko Vojnića). U 17. sto ljeću ja la na mjestu gdje je kasnije podignut na parterni perivoj i ulaz bili su saloni za Vojkovići su se preselili u Hrvat sko zagorje ures ni parterni perivoj ispred glavnog za- boravak i društveni život. Obiteljsko krilo jer su 1646. naslijedili dio ne ka dašn j e g a padnog pročelja dvorca. Dvorac je imao imalo je kupaonicu, a trijem unutrašnjeg Susedgradsko-stubičkog vla ste lin stva u ranobarokni četverokrilni tlocrt s unu- dvorišta bio je ostakljen. sklo pu kojeg se nalazilo i Oro slav je. Kra- traš n j i m d v o r i štem i okruglim kulama Prilikom preuređenja dvorca za tvor- ljica Marija Terezija do dij e lila im je 1763. na uglovima te jednostavna pročelja. Uz ni cu, nakon 1921., srušena je većina pre- grofovsku titulu te im odobrila promjenu dvo rišna pročelja nalazio se trijem koji grad nih zidova i umjesto njih postavljena prezimena u Voj ko vić-Vojkkfy i pridjevak je služio za ulazak u pojedine prostorije. drvena konstrukcija. Budući da dvorac de Klokoch et Voj kovich. Sigismund (umro Na katu se stanovalo, a u prizemlju su bile nije bio dovoljno velik, kasnije je tvornica 1792.) dao je sag raditi dvorac Oroslavje pomoćne i gospodarske prostorije. pre mještena u drugu zgradu. Donje, utemeljio je crkvu u obližnjem Kad je dvorac pripao obitelji Sermage, Oslikana unutrašnjost Oroslavja Zaboku, a neki smatraju da je upravo on nakon 1755. godine, oni ga temeljito preu- lik Siniše iz romana "Grička vještica" Ma- ređuju, dodajući mu barokna arhitek- Donjeg rije Jurić Za gorke. Vojkovići su gra ditelji tonska obilježja na pročeljima. Između Dvorac Oroslavje Donje izgrađen je gradskoga baroknoga dvorca na zagre- ostalog, na zapadnom ulaznom pročelju izme đu 1770. i 1790. Od tri krila, koja tlo - bačkom Gornjem gradu u Matoševoj ulici, dodaje se središnji rizalit i tornjić sa sa tom crtno čine slovo U, glavno je sjeve rois toč- poznatog pod imenom palača Vojković koji se izdiže iznad krovišta, a u unu t raš- no krilo šire i više, pa krovište nad vi suje – Oršić – Kulmer – Rauch. U Oroslavju njosti se izvode barokni svodovi, tzv. češ- ma nja i uža bočna krila. Kasnije iz gra đe na Donjem Vojkovići žive do 1897., kad pro- ke kape i zrcalni svodovi. Bio je to jedini ko njuš nica i još kasnije izvedene pri gra d- daju po sjed Ugarskoj hipotekarnoj banci dvorac grofova Sermage, koji je um jesto nje bočnih krila dvorca zatvaraju s dvor- koja zemlju rasprodaje seljacima. uobi ča j e n o m šindrom bio pokri ven cri- cem unutrašnje dvorište. Projekt dvor ca Završetak Prvoga svjetskoga rata jepom. Prema popisu inventara iz 1746., u donosi novost u dotadašnjoj ra no ba roknoj (1918.) donio je velike političke i gospo- dar ske promjene. Stara vlastelinstva su se ras pala, a Oroslavje i obližnji Za bok bu dućnost grade na industrijskoj proiz- vodnji. Zagrebački industrijalac Milan Pr pić (rođen 1874.) kupuje 1921. oba oro slavska dvorca. Vranyczanyjev dvor ac ku pio je s pokućstvom i slikama, koje je pre selio u donji dvorac koji je oda brao za stanovanje svoje obitelji, a gornji dvorac preuredio u tekstilnu tvornicu. Bio je to početak industrije u Oroslavju i Zaboku. Milan Prpić podiže nekoliko tvornica, fi - nancijski pomaže izgradnju infra struk- ture, osniva Tekstilnu i Vrtlarsku školu. Financira rad Hrvatske seljačke stranke Stjepana Radića, kojem ustupa i pola pa- lače na Zrinjevcu, koju je kupio od Luje Vranyczanya. Mjesec dana prije završetka Drugoga svjetskoga rata ustaška vlast Prpića je zatvorila i osudila na smrt, a mjesec dana nakon rata, u lipnju 1945. Oroslavje Donje, salon dvorca, oko 1925. Izvor: Ivan Tomić, Oroslavje

88 shemi zagorskih dvoraca. Um jes to hod ni- ca Eugena Savojskog nad Turcima kod s obje strane pružao perivoj bez drveća, ka s arkadama na dvorišnoj stra ni, hodnik Beo grada 1717. U veži su bila četiri me da- velik otprilike 1,3 hektara. Jugozapadni dio se po javljuje u unutrašnjosti tlocrta, u ljona u štuku, ispunjena fi gurama. Sve su perivoja naslanjao se na gospodarski dio uz duž noj osovini glavnog krila i na taj te slike nestale u požaru 1949. dvorskoga sklopa. U stražnjem dijelu na nač in omogućuje gradnju prostorija s po vršini 4,4 hektra oko sjevernog, istoč- obje strane hodnika. U prizemlju se kroz Povijesni izgled perivoja nog i južnog pročelja dvorca postojao je veliku vežu ulazi u dvorac i dvorište. Stu- Oroslavja Gornjeg pejsažni perivoj. bište u koje se ulazi kroz vežu vodi do O izgledu perivoja nestalog dvorca U doba Luje Vranyczanya, na prije- velikog predvorja, odakle se ulazi u sre diš- Oro slavje Gornje iz kasnobaroknog doba, lomu 19. i 20. stoljeća velike su promjene nju dvoranu na prvom katu. Glav ne pro- kad su u dvorcu živjeli grofovi Sermage, nastale u perivoju koji se preoblikuje i storije okrenute su prema vanj skim pro - znamo samo na temelju stare katastarske poprima historicistička obilježja. Pejsažni čeljima koja nose obilježja kasno ba rok nog karte iz sredine 19. stoljeća. Perivoj se kao perivoj u stražnjem dijelu poprima neo- klasicizma. Dvorac nije doživ ljav ao zna t - i danas sastojao iz dva dijela. Od uličnog ro mantičarska obilježja, a parterni pe ri- nije izmjene tijekom 19. stoljeća, pa je perivojnog portala do dvorca vodila je voj u ulaznom dijelu neobarokna. Ne o - gra diteljski sačuvan u izvor nom obliku. 200 metara duga aleja, čijom se duljinom ro mantičarska scenografi ja donijela je Svod glavne dvorane dvorca Oroslavje broj ne nove perivojne građevine, kao što Donje oslikan je potkraj 18. stoljeća zid- su: jezero s otočićem i kućicom za la bu- nim slikama alegorijskog sadržaja. U ilu- dove, ribarska kućica, hram božice Flore zio nističkoj arhitektonsko-fi gurativnoj - okrugli paviljon nazivan Tempieto, kompo ziciji, unutar rubno naslikane balu- mos tić do otočića i dr. Neposredno oko stra de blago naoblačenog neba prepoz na- dvor ca, smještenog na najvišoj koti te re- jemo grčko-rimske bogove i junake, me đu na, izgrađene su terase s balustradnim kojima je i Merkur. Zidne slike u ostalim og ra dama, postavljen je visok stup sa sobama na katu i u hodniku nastale su u skulp turom orla na sjevernoj terasi, izve- 19. stoljeću. Slike je oštetila, a djelomice i de no široko kameno stubište kojim se uništila vlaga i plijesan. spuš talo do jezera, ispod stubišta na prav- Unutrašnjost nestalog dvorca Oro- ljena špilja-nimfej, na obali jezera ure - slavje Gornje bila je ukrašena štukaturnim đeno kameno pristanište. S istočne te- ure sima i zidnim slikama. Prema konzer- rase dvorca pružao se slikovit pogled na vatorskom izvješću iz 1949., svod glavnog perivoj i okolni krajolik s livadama i bre- stubišta bio je oslikan alegorijskim iluzio- žulj cima u pozadini. nističkim slikama s motivima četiri strane Prednji parterni perivoj preoblikuje svijeta, a u stubištu su postojali medaljoni se kao neobarokni uresni vrt s mnoš- sa simboličkim likovima i oroslavskim tvom cvijeća, niskih i topijarnih (šiša nih) dvor cem u pozadini. U zapadnoj kuli na nasada te s brojnim perivojnim sadrž a- zi dovima i svodu bile su uljene slike u Oroslavje Gornje, hram božice Flore – jima, kao što su: skulpture, fontana, mo- štuko okvirima s prikazima pobjede prin - Tempieto, 1930-ih gila s urnom, klupe s motivima lavova i

Oroslavje Gornje, parterni ulazni perivoj, 1906.

89 sfi ngi, keramičke vaze sa cvijećem i dr. sebno vrijedan na nacionalnoj razini te U prvoj polovici 20. stoljeća perivoj Simetrično postavljene u odnosu na glav- ga valja zaštititi (kao degradirani prostor) je doživio malo preoblikovanje. Sjeverno no zapadno pročelje dvorca, stajale su i spriječiti amaterske obnove i im pro vi- i zapadno od dvorca samonikli je gaj za- ba rokne kamene skulpture Flore i Satira. zacije, da bi se mogao obnoviti pre ma mijenio kuhinjski vrt i povrtnjak. Osim To su jedine sačuvane barokne perivojne su vremenim načelima obnove periv ojne brojnih četinjača i listača, domaćih i une- skulp ture u Hrvatskoj. Kasnije, između ar hitekture. senih, u perivoju se još uvijek nalazi dr- dva svjetska rata, preseljene su u perivoj veće koje pomalo iščezava iz starih pe- dvorca Oroslavje Donje. Uza sjeverni rub Perivoj Oroslavja Donjeg: rivoja, kao što su žalosni grab, žalosna parternog perivoja bila je oranžerija, koja blijeda slika nekadašnje ljepote buk va, žalosni jasen i žalosna sofora. se spominje još u doba Sermageovih, a Iako današnji perivoj dvorca Oroslavje Perivoj donjeg dvorca djelomice je sa- vidi se na fotografi jama s početka 20. sto- Donje ima obilježje pejsažnog stila, po- čuvan. Tijekom vremena perivoj je do živio ljeća. "Koncem 19. stoljeća perivoj je bio vi jesni izvori ukazuju na barokno-kla- funkcionalne promjene, pa se razlikuju tri na tada internacionalnom niveau-u, stila sicisti čka obilježja perivoja i dvorskoga cjeline. Prva je prilazni perivoj dvorcu, i ukusa toga doba (kasni Napoleon III., sklo pa, vidljiva i na katastarskoj karti iz obi lježen na ulazu ba roknim portalom. Ringstrassen-epoche s prijelazom na Ju- 1907. Ku hinjski vrtovi uza sjeverno i za- Pri lazni put dvorcu koriste obiteljske zgra - gendstil), a uzor su bili parterres-i Schön- padno pročelje dvorca nastali su vje- de iz druge polovice 20. stoljeća kao kol ni brun na i Laxenburga”, napisao je Jan ko rojatno već potkraj 18. stoljeća. Dvorcu se pristup parcelama. U tom potezu, uz is- barun Vranyczany-Dobrinović 1980-ih tada prilazilo alejom dugom 230 metara, točni rub perivoja nalazi se i nekoliko gos- godina u pismu autorima ovoga teksta. koja je počinjala baroknim portalom na po darskih zgrada, preuređenih za stano- U Hrvatskom zagorju i sjevernoj Hr - cesti i prolazila pokraj velikoga sklopa vanje. Druga cjelina je nekadašnji južn i vatskoj naći ćemo historicističke cvjet nja- gos podarskih zgrada. Ispred južnog pro- dio perivoja između dvorca i ulice, gdje su ke, ali ne i cjelovite historicističke peri voje čelja dvorca bio je uresni parterni pe- na prav ljeni nogometno igralište, tenis ki kao što je bio perivoj uz nestali dvo rac rivoj, površine otprilike dva hektra. U tereni i parkiralište. Treća je cjeli na samo- Oroslavje Gornje. O njemu postoji obil- ju gozapadnom dijelu perivoj se vezao na nikli gaj sjeverno i zapadno od dvorca, na fotodokumentacija i ostaci in situ, šu mu. Između dvorca s uresnim pe rivojem koji se razvio na mjestu nekadašnjih ku- pa se može rekonstruirati njegov izgled. i ceste bila je velika livada (2,5 hektra), gdje hinjskih vrtova i voćnjaka. Zbog toga je perivoj nestalog dvorca po- se danas nalazi nogometno igralište. Perivoj gornjeg dvorca doživio je ve- liku devastaciju. I tu se uočavaju tri pro- storne cjeline. Prva je nekadašnji uresni par terni neobarokni perivoj ispred zapad- noga pročelja dvorca, u koji se s ulice ula zi kroz perivojni portal. Taj je perivoj dje- lomice sačuvan. Druga je cjelina prostor nekadašnjega dvorca, na čijem je mjestu izgrađena tvornička hala. Treća cjelina je uništeni neoromantičarski pejsažni pe- rivoj, od kojeg postoje arhitektonski tra- govi perivojnih građevina. Svjedobno se je zero koristilo za odlaganje šljake iz tvor ničke kotlovnice. Desetljećima je sve bi lo zapušteno i obraslo samoniklim ras- li njem. Od 2008. traje obnova par ter nog neo baroknog perivoja i čišćenje neoro- man tičarskog perivoja. U sjećanje na Luju Vrany czanya i njegove rođendanske peri- vojne zabave, svake se godine u kolovozu održava kostimirani ples s glazbom iz 18. i 19. stoljeća, pod imenom "Vrtna zabava kod Luje Vranyczanya”. Propadanje dvoraca i moguća prenamjena Neposredno nakon Drugoga svjet- skoga rata razmišljalo se o preuređenju rano baroknog dvorca Oroslavje Gornje u rad ničko odmaralište. Pripremne radove vodio je Glavni odbor sindikata Hrvatske. Oroslavje Donje, prilaz dvorcu, 2006. Foto: Mladen Obad Šćitaroci No, dvorac je izgorio u požaru 21. lipnja 1949. i prekinuo planove. Stariji stanovnici 90 šaja revitalizacije Oroslavja Gornjeg ne- po sredno nakon Drugoga svjetskoga rata, dru gih pokušaja nije niti bilo. Preo braz ba Oroslavja Donjeg u dom zdravlja u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća bilo je prihvatljivo pri vremeno rješenje koje je sačuvalo dvo- rac, no kad se dom zdravlja iselio, dvo- rac je počeo nezaustavljivo propadati. Po ku šaji šta jerske vlade iz Graza 1990-ih go di na – uz ve liku pomoć baruna Wolf- gan ga-Vuka Steeba, nekadašnjeg vlas nika ob liž njeg Go lubovca u Donjoj Stu bici – da fi nan cijski pomogne prena mje nu i pre- ure đe nje dvorca, nisu uspjeli, po najprije zbog inertnosti i nezainte resira nosti ta da- š nje lo kal ne vlasti. Pohvalna je aktivnost današnje grad- ske vlasti u Oroslavju, udruga i pojedinaca oko revitalizacije perivoja Oroslavja Gor- njeg i restauracije skulptura. Učinjeno je Photo: Mladen Obad Šćitaroci mnogo, mještani su to prihvatili, obnova Oroslavje Gornje, ruševine dvorca i stanje dvorskoga sklopa 1954. se nastavlja. Međutim, prilikom obnove Izvor: Ministarstvo kulture, fototeka kul turnoga naslijeđa nisu dovoljni samo en tuzijazam i dobra namjera. Obnova i Oroslavja sjećaju se da se govorilo kako početak, sjajan rast i razvoj, tužan i tra- re vitalizacija kulturnih dobara zahtijeva je požar bio podmetnut. Povjerenstvo gičan završetak. Kontinuitet života, pre ki- znan stveno utemeljen pristup, što podra- Kon zervatorskog zavoda 5. srpnja 1949. nut prije sedamdeset godina, usprkos po- zu mi jeva prethodna istraživanja, a u sluč- utvrđ uje da je glavno, jugozapadno krilo ku šajima revitalizacije do sada nije us pio, aju Oroslavja Gornjeg i arheološko istra- već im dijelom pošteđeno od požara. Po- a svaka odgoda obnove umanjuje moguć- živanje, te stručnu kreativnu inter pre taciju nov no se obnavlja ideja o prenamjeni, nost novog života. Osim neuspjelih poku- i iskustvo u radu s kulturnim do brima. ali sada u dom kulture s kinodvoranom i Bez toga nije moguće postići po vijesnu či tao nicom. Napravljen je 1957. projekt au tentičnost koja se, prema među na- ob no ve i pre uređenja, ali se od svega odu- rodnim deklaracijama i standardima, s talo. Ubr zo je raznesen građevni ma te- oče kuje prilikom obnove i revitalizacije rijal. Do da nas je sačuvan samo sje vero- kul tur noga naslijeđa - i dvoraca i pe ri- istoč ni zid s tra govima uglovnih kula, što voja. Inač e ćemo imati obnovljena kul- je ugra đeno u tvorničku halu. Tvor nica tur na dob ra, ali ne prema svjetskim i na- odav no ne radi. cional nim kriterijima izvrsnosti. Dobit U kasnobaroknom Oroslavju Donjem će mo ure dan i pospremljen prostor, ali stanovalo se do kraja Drugoga svjetskoga preoblikovan i neautentičan. Na taj način rata. Sredinom 20. stoljeća kratko je vrije- gubi se i svojstvo kulturnog dobra. Bila bi me u dvorcu bio restoran i plesna dvo rana, to šteta za Oroslavje i njegova dva dvorca a onda je smješten dom zdravlja i lje kar na. koji, usprkos aktualnom stanju, imaju U prizemnom krilu dvorca bili su stano vi, velike prednosti i mogućnosti u odnosu prosto rije nogometnog kluba i sportskih na mnoge druge zagorske dvorce. ud ruga. Nakon preseljenja do ma zdrav lja Dobro promišljenim programima, sus- u novu zgradu početkom 1990-ih, dvo- tav nim i znanstveno utemeljenim pri stu - rac je prepušten sam sebi i po či nje pro- pom, uz vodstvo iskusnih konzer va tors- padati. Raznosi se parket i stare kaljeve kih struč njaka i projektanata ovla šte nih peći, razbijaju se stakla, krov pro kiš njava. za rad na kulturnim dobrima te po se bi ce Posljedice su tragične. Pri je neko liko go- kulturološkim pogledom, mogu će je za- dina Ministarstvo kultu re obno vilo je krov, puš t e n a i u n i štena kulturna dobra lo kal ne no za barokne freske bilo je prekas no jer vri jed nosti učiniti pokretačima razvo ja lo- su većinom uniš t e n e u s l i j e d v l a g e i p l i - kal ne sredine, a u pogledu obnove dos tić i jesni. Ne davno je dvo rac vraćen nasljed ni- razinu europskih kriterija. To je jedini is- cima Milana Prpi ća. Budu ćnost mu je ne- pravan put koji može osi gurati fi nancijsku izvjesna zbog oronulosti i teških oštećenja. Oroslavje Donje, kasnobarokno- potporu europskih fon dova, bez čega nije Oroslavski dvorci svjedoče istinu o za- klasicistička peć, 1970. moguća ozbiljna i sveobu h vat na obnova gorskim i hrvatskim dvorcima – skroman Izvor: Ministarstvo kulture, fototeka oroslavskih dvoraca i perivoja. 91 arely can two castles be found in the same place. T is is the case wi- th Oroslavje in ’s Zagorje re gion. Oroslavje is a town that developed R th stron gly in the fi rst half of the 20 cen- tury. Just 300 meters away from each ot- her there are two castles in the centre of Oro slavje. Fate has not been kind to them. T e Oroslavje Gornje castle disappeared a long time ago and in its place a factory was built which too has not been in use for a while. T e Oroslavje Donje castle is empty. It is in bad shape, virtually devas- tated particularly its interior. T e parks have been somewhat preserved. Despite the current state, it is worthwhile to re- member them as the town can feel their emi nence. T e Oroslavje castles are an example of cultural heritage that is de-

caying – heritage without an heir. Unfor- th tunately they illustrate the fate of most Oroslavje Gornje, stairway toward neo-Romantic park, beginning of 20 century castles in Croatia. T e two Oroslavje castles and two na and Velika Horvatska castles aro und them to change their name to Vojković- estates that had diff erent owners have an De sinec. A curia more than likely exis ted Vojkkfy and the title of de Klokoch et interesting past connected to the lives of in the castle during their era. T ey were Vojkovich. Sigismund (died 1792) orde- reputable noble families. Oroslavje Gor- follo wed by the Čikulin counts (1614- red the construction of the Oroslavje Do- nje is the older of the two estates and 1746), who were succeeded by the Ser- nje castle. He founded a church in near- castles. At the end of the 16th and begin- mage nobility of Susedgrad (1746-1885), by and some people assume that ning of the 17th centuries a curia existed who at one stage owned 24 cas tles and the character of Siniša in Marija Jurić and the castle was built in the fi rst half of curia around Croatia. T eir fa mily mot to Za gorka’s novel "T e Grič Witch” was the 17th century while the Oroslavje Donje was the same as the Zrinski nobi lity: Arte actually Sigismund. T e Vojković’s con- castle was built at the end of the 18th cen- et marte (With pen and sword). Rikard stru c ted the city Baroque castle in Za- tury. Both castles were superior examples Ser mage sold the castle in 1885 and the greb’s upper town in Matoš Street known of architecture and artistic creativity for es tate to Ljudevit-Lujo Vranyczany-Do- as the Vojković – Oršić – Kulmer – their era - Oroslavje Gornje as early Baro- brinovi ć, who refurbished the castle with- Rauch Palace. T e Vojković’s lived in Oro- que and Oroslavje Donje as late Baroque. out changing its Baroque look. He ow ned slavje Donje until 1897 when they sold the T eir ceiling and wall murals were of par- the castle until 1921. Lujo then con stru- estate to the Hungarian mortgage bank ticular value as were their parks. c ted the Vranyczany Palace in Zrinje vac who then sold the estate to local peasants. T e castles were visited by renowned Park in Zagreb (which now hou ses the With the end of World War I (1918) artists. Franz Liszt, pianist in the 19th Modern Art Gallery) and his brothers huge political and economic changes century was known to visit Oroslavje Gor- con tinued to own the Mirkovec, Sveti occurred. Old estates fell apart and Oro- nje on his journeys from Graz to Zagreb Križ Začretje, Gornja Bedekovčina cast- slavje and nearby Zabok were developed and back. Musician Dioniz Sermage sta- les in Zagorje. Lujo was a sympathiser of and turned to industrial production. Za- yed in the castle on 26 and 28 July 1846. Stros smayer and support the struggle for greb industrialist Milan Prpić (born 1874) In the early 20th century, Vlaho Bukovac, Cro atia’s freedom. Strossmayer is also bought both castles in 1921.He purchased a fa mous Croatian painter visited the known for being a great supporter of the Vranyczany’s castle with all its furniture ca stle to paint a portrait of the owner fi ne arts. and paintings which were placed in the Lujo Vranyczany and the castle itself. In Oroslavje Donje was owned by the lower (Donje) castle where he chose the mid-19th century, at the invitation of Vojkovic family who belonged to ancient to live with his family while the upper Count Vojković-Vojkff y, Oroslavje Donje Croatian nobility and so Hungarian-Cro- (Gor nje) castle was transformed into a hosted painter Ivan Zasche, who is known a tian king Bela IV granted them with textile factory. T at was the beginning for his graphics of Maksimir Park in his property around Klokoča where they of in dustrialisation in Oroslavje and collection Jurjaves dating in 1853. con structed Vojković-Grad (not far from Zabok. Milan Prpić built several facto- Vo jnić). T e Vojković’s resettled in Hr- ries and fi nanced the construction of Owners: Ratkaj, Čikulin, vat sko Zagorje in the 17th century as in in fra structure in the area. He founded Sermage, Vranyczany, Vojković 1646 they inherited the Susedgrad-Stu- the Textile and Agricultural schools. He T e oldest owners of Oroslavje Gor- bica estate which included Oroslavje. fi nancially supported the political acti- nje were the Ratkajs (until 1614), kno wn Queen Mary T eresa in 1763 granted vities of the Croatian Peasants’ Party led as the owners of the Veliki Tabor, Milja- them with the title of nobility and allowed by Stjepan Radić handing over half the 92 Oroslavje Donje, eastern entry façade to the castle, 2005 Photo: Mladen Obad Šćitaroci

palace in Zrinjevac to the party which to entrances to the rooms. T e fi rst fl oor wing of the castle was used as the ser- he had bought from Lujo Vranyczany. served as residence while the gro und fl oor vants’ quarters while the southern wing One month before the end of World War housed the servants’ quarters. housed rooms where the family abided. II, Prpić was arrested by the Ustashi go- When the castle came to the owner- T e northern wing was used for guests ver nment and sentenced to death. One ship of the Sermage family after 1755 it and the western wing looking on to the month after the end of the war, in June was substantially refurbished and Baro- partner park and entrance housed salons 1945 the communist government con- que architectural features were added to for socialising. T e family wing contained fi scated all his property. the facades. Amongst else, the western a bathroom and the porch in the interior en trance received a central risalyth and courtyard had glazed windows. Early Baroque caster in clock tower which rises above the roof. When the castle was transformed into Oroslavje Gornje T e interior ceilings were reconstructed a factory after 1921 most of the interior We don’t know who and when the in Baroque style with so-called Czech walls were torn down and wooden con- Oroslavje Gornje castle, which no lon- caps and mirrored ceilings. T is was the structions were put in place. As the castle ger exists, was built. It is assumed that only castle owned by the Sermage’s and was not large enough for the purposes of Julije Čikulin (1580-1634) had the castle the roof was not covered with the usual the factory, the factory was later relocated constructed who had several important shingles but with roof tiles. According to another building. to a list of inventory dating to 1746, the family documents issued in Oroslavje. Decorated interior of Oroslavje Based on historical documents it is know castle consisted of 15 rooms on the fi rst that in the 16th century an early Renais- fl oor, 18 beds, 23 tables of various sizes Donje sance curia existed owned by the Ratkaj and shapes, several desks and numerous T e Oroslavje Donje castle was built family. According to old Austrian maps, it other furniture pieces and as many as 502 between 1770 and 1790. It consisted of appears that the new Baroque castle was paintings on the walls of which 422 were three wings in the shape of the letter U built next to the curia which stood in the copper engravings and 13 portraits. and the main northeast wing was wi der spot where later a decorative partner park After 1885 Ljudevit Vranyczany also and higher and its roof overhangs over was erected in front of the main western refurbished the caste without signifi cantly the two lower and narrower side win gs. façade of the castle. T e castle had an early changing its Baroque appearance. In 1904 Stables were constructed at a later date Baroque fl oor plan with an interior court- a classicist altana (roof-top terrace) was and later still an extra wing was con- yard and round towers at each cor ner and added to the western entrance standing structed enclosing the interior courtyard. a simple façade. T e courtyard facades on eight posts and designed by Ignjat Fis- T e castle's fl oorplan introduced a novelty were decorated with a porch which led cher. During Vranyczany’s era the eas tern to early Baroque Zagorje castles. Instead

93 Oroslavje Donje, castle salon, around 1925 Source: Ivan Tomić, Oroslavje

of passage way with arches toward the decorated with four medallions framed A rock dock was built on the shores of the courtyard the passage way was located with stucutures, fi lled with fi gures. All lake. A picturesque view spread from the in the interior of the building along the the se disappeared in the 1949 fi re. eastern side of the terrace overlooking axle main wing which meant that rooms the park and surrounding landscape with were built on either side of the passage Historical appearance of the fi elds and hills in the background. way. T e entry to the castle is located in Oroslavje Gornje park T e front partner park was reshaped the ground fl oor through a large gateway All we know about the appearance as a neo-Baroque decorative garden with leading to the courtyard which leads to of the one-time park of Oroslavje Gornje a multitude of fl owers, low and topical the central hall on the fi rst fl oor. T e main cast le dating back to the late Baroque (shorn) plants with numerous park con- rooms faced the exterior facades that were era when the Sermage family lived in the tent such as: sculptures, fountains, mo- decorated with late Baroque classicist de- cast le, is based on old cadastre plans da- guls with urns, benches with motives of tails. T e castle did not experience any ting back to the 19th century. T e park lio ns and sphynxes ceramic vases with th sig ni fi cant adaptations during the 19 then like now comprised two sections. A fl owers and so on. Symmetrically placed cen tury and has been preserved in its ori- 200 metre long avenue led from the street in relation to the main western facade of ginal shape. to the park portal at the castle surrounded the castle were baroque stone sculptures T e ceiling of the main hall in the by parkland without nany trees on an area of Flora and Satira. T ese are the only cast le was decorated with a mural in the of 1.3 hectares. T e southwest sec tion of Baroque sculptures remaining in the Park th late 18 century with allegoric con tent. the park was bordered with the com mer- of Sculptures in Croatia. Later, between T e illusionary architectural-fi gura tive cial section of the estates. T e back end of the two world wars, they were relocated composition, with surrounding balu stra- the castle was covered with an area of 4.4 to the Oroslavje Donje park. Along the des and a mildly cloudy sky give way to hectares around the nort hern, eastern and northern boundary of the partner park Greek-Roman gods and heroes including southern facades of land scaped parkland. was a large orange grove which is fi rst Mercury. T e wall murals in the other During the time of Lujo Vranyczany, men tioned during the ownership of the rooms on the fi rst fl oor and passage way at the turn of the 19th to the 20th centuries, Ser mage family and can be seen in photo- th th emerged in the 19 century. T e murals great changes occurred to the park which graphs from the early 20 century. "In th are damaged and have partly decayed due was reshaped and obtained historicistic the late 19 century, the park was kept to damp and mould. features. T e landscaped park at the back at international standards of the times T e interior of the Oroslavje Gor nje of the castle was given neo Romanic fea- in style and taste (later Napoleon III rd castle which no longer exists was deco- tures and the partner park at the entry ear, Ringstrassen-epoch and turning to rated with stucutures and wall murals. was neo-Baroque. Jugendstil), with Schönbrunne and La xen- According to a conservation re port in T e neo-Romanic scenery was en han- burga parterres,” serving as their idols, 1949, the ceiling of the main stair way ced with numerous annex buildings and Janko barun Vranyczany-Dobrinović told was decorated with allegoric illu sio nary facilities like the lake with a little isle and the authors of this text in 1980-ies. paintings depicting motives of the four swan house, fi sherman's house, the temple and northern Croa- sides of the world and medallions deco- to the goddess Flora – a round pavilion tia are fi lled with historicist fl ower beds rated the stairway with symbolic fi gu res named Tempieto, a bridge to the islet and but have no complete historicist parks and the castle in the background. T e the castle was surrounded by a terrace like the one that existed around the one- western tower was decorated with oil and balustrade fence on the highest ter- time Oroslavje Gornje castle. T ere is an pain tings hanging on the walls framed rain and a post carrying a sculpture of abundance of photo-documentation of its with stucu tures portraying the victory of an eagle on the northern terrace. A wide existence and remains in situ, so it can be Prin ce Eugene of Savoy over the Turks staircase was added which led to the lake reconstructed as it once used to be. T at near Belgrade in 1717. T e gateway was and a cave was placed under the staircase. is why the park of the one-time castle is 94 groups of accessory buildings. In front of the southern facade the castle stood a decorative partner park, covering an area of approximately two hectares. T e south- western section of the park continued with a forest. Between the castle and the decorative park and road there was a huge fi eld (2.5 hectares) where today stands a football fi eld. In the fi rst half of the 20th century the park was slightly reshaped. North and west of the castle is a natural grove which replaced the kitchen garden and vegetable patch. Apart from the numerous ferns and leafy trees, domestic and imported plants there are still some trees that are slowly dying out in the old park such as hornbeam, beech, ash and sophoras. T e park around the castle has been partially preserved. Over time the park Sculpture of Flora in the partner park, 1902 Source: Vienac experienced changes to its use which can be divided into three units. T e fi rst is the particularly valuable at the national level facade most likely emerged at the end of transition period featured at the entry of and it would be worthwhile to protect the 18th century. T e castle then was ap- the Baroque portal. T e path leading to it (as a degraded area) and to prevent proached via a 230 metre long avenue the castle is lined with family facilities any amateur attempt at renewing it or which started with a Baroque portal at from the mid-20th century and as access improvisation so that it can be re newed the street end and passed alongside large to surrounding plots. Along that stretch, according to contemporary prin ciples of beside the eastern boundary of the park park architecture. there are several large accessory buildings The Oroslavje Donje park: a pale that have been refurbished and were used Baroque stone sculptures as residential housing. During the second picture of the beauty it once had unit, the one-time southern section of the Even though today's park at Oroslavje of Flora and Satira are the park between the castle and street a foot- Donje contains features of a landscaped ball fi eld, tennis courts and parking lot area, historical sources indicate its Baro- only Baroque sculptures were erected. T e third unit resulted in que-Classicist features of a park as part of remaining in the Park of a na tural grove north and west from the the castle's estate which is visible on the castle which developed where the one- cadastre map dating 1907. T e kitchen Sculptures in Croatia time kitchen garden and vegetable patch parks alongside the northern and western once existed. T e park of the upper castle expe- rienced signifi cant devastation. Here too, three spatial units are visible. T e fi rst relates to the one-time decorative partner neo-Baroque park in front of the western facade of the castle which can be entered from the street through the park portal. T at park has been partially preserved. T e second unit comprises the space around the one-time castle where the factory was later built. T e third unit is the devastated, non-existent neo-Romantic landscaped park of which architectural itaroci

Šć traces and landscaped facilities can just be made out. T e one-time lake was used to deposit waste from the factory furnace. For decades everything was left to ruin and overgrow. Since 2008 attempts have Photo: Mladen Obad Obad Mladen Photo: been made to renew the neo-Baroque Oroslavje Donje, sculpture of Flora, 2005 Oroslavje Donje, sculpture of Satira, 2005 park and to clean up the neo-Romantic

95 park. In memory of Lujo Vranyczany and his birthday garden parties, each year a Oroslavje Gornje, entry to park, 2015 Photo: Tea Tuda costume ball is held in August with 18th and 19th century music and is known as the "Lujo Vranyczany Garden Party.” The castles' devastation and possible revival Immediately after World War II, there were ideas to refurbish the early Baroque Oroslavje Gornje castle and transform into a recreation resort for workers. Pre- pa ratory works were organised by uni- ons however the castle burned down on 21 June 1949 and ended those plans. Ol- der residents of Oroslavje recall that the fi re had been deliberately lit. T e Con- servation Commission on 5 July 1949 de ter mined that the main, southwestern wing was preserved from the fi re. T e idea of refurbishing the castle was once again being raised but the idea was to turn it in- to a cultural facility with a cinema and lib- T e continuity of life which was cut off Oroslavje Gornje, archaeological in ves- ra ry. Plans were put together in 1957 for seventy years ago, despite attempts of re- ti gation and an expert creative interpre- its refurbishment but nothing was ever vitalisation, have not succeeded for now tation and experience in working with done in this regard. All the construction and any further delay reduces the chances cultural good. Without that, it will not material was quickly looted and dragged for a new life. Apart from the unsuccessful be pos sible to achieve the histo rical aut- away. Today, only the northeastern wall attempts to revitalise Oroslavje Gornje hen ticity that according to inter natio nal with traces of one of the towers, which immediately after WWII there were no declarations and standards is expe cted was incorporated in the factory, remains. other such attempts. T e transformation during the reconstruction and revitali- T e Oroslavje Donje castle served of Oroslavje Donje into a health clinic in sation of cultural heritage – of castles and as re sidential premises until the end of the second half of the 20th century was parks. Otherwise we will have a revived World War II. In the mid-20th century, a an acceptable temporary solution which cultural heritage but not according to res taurant and dance hall existed in the managed to preserve the castle however global and national criteria of excellence. castle for a brief time and then it housed when the health clinic was relocated, the We will obtain an orderly and neat space the health clinic and pharmacy in the to- castle was left to its own means and began but reshaped and without authenticity. In wn. T e ground fl oor was turned into decaying. Attempts by the authorities in that way the properties of a cultural good apart ments, premises for the local football Styria from Graz in the 199-ies – with the are lost. T at would be a shame for Oro- club and sporting associations. After the abundant support of Count Wolfgang- slavje and its two castles which, despite health clinic was relocated in the early Vuk Steeb, a former owner of the nearby the current situation, have an ad vantage 1990-ies the castle was totally abandoned Golubovac castle in – to and opportunity compared to many other and left to decay. assist with the transformation and refur- castles around Zagorje. T e castle was looted and the fl oor bish ment of the castle resulted without A well thought out programme, sy- boards were confi scated aswere the old any success, primarily due to the inertness ste matic and scientifi cally founded ap- ceramic wood heaters, the windows were and disinterest of the local authorities at pro ach along with the leadership with smashed and the roof began to leak. the time. expe rienced conservation experts and T e consequences are tragic. A few T e current city authorities of Oro- pro jects authorised to work on cultural years ago the Culture Ministry recon- slavje are to be commended as well as good, particularly with a cultural view, it stru cted the roof however that was too asso ciations of individuals attempting to would be possible to render goods with a late for the Baroque frescos which were revitalise Oroslavje Gornje and to resto- local value despite being abandoned and ruined due to damp and mould. Recen- re its sculptures. A great deal has been devastated and for them to be driver of tly the castle was returned to Milan Pr- achieved and the local residents have development of local communities with pic's descendants. T e castle's future is accepted this. Reconstruction is con ti- regard to achieving the level of Euro- uncer tain due to the level of ruination and nuing. However, enthusiasm and good pean criteria T at is the only correct grave damages that have resulted. will are not enough to revive cultural way that can ensure fi nancial support T e Oroslavje castles testify the heri tage. T e renewal and revitalisation of from European funds without which it truth about Zagorje and Croatian castles cul tural heritage requires a scientifi cally would not be possible to seriously and all- – a modest start, brilliant growth and founded approach which comprehends encompassing to revive the Oroslavje cas- develop ment and a sad and tragic end. preceding research and in the case of tles and parks. 96 kn

Broj 55 • godldddina IX • listopad/studeni 2015. 2 1 NA JE CI

Lijepa je jesen

Jesen je brzo stigla u naš grad. Vjerojatno je žurila da se prije kiše održe brojni programi na otvorenom jer bi bila prava šteta da ih je kiša pokvarila. Rujan je bio u znaku hrane i kulture i mnogobrojni turisti, kojih je ove godine bilo 13 posto više nego lani, osim u ljepotama našega grada uživali su i u prvom Food Film Festivalu na Zrinjevcu. Bijelom noći zatvoren je Rendez–vous, festival Francuske u Hrvatskoj, prepun izložbi, koncerata, predstava, književnih večeri, ne samo u Zagrebu nego i u drugim našim gradovima. Na Trg bana Jelačića na nekoliko se dana ovoga ljeta preselio Dolac i podsjetio me na predivnu sliku Mencija Klementa Crnčića, koja je bila na naslovnici našega časopisa 2008. O nekadašnjem naselju Dolac i tržnici Snješka Knežević i drugi autori priredili su interesantan blok tekstova u ovom broju. A svečani zastor Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta u Zagrebu, na kojem je Vlaho Bukovac naslikao Hrvatski preporod, na naslovnici ovog broja najavljuje tekst o 120 godina zgrade HNK – prema mnogima, najljepše zgrade u Zagrebu. Što su ove jeseni pripremile naše kulturno - umjetničke kuće, pročitajte u tekstovima u rubrici Kultura. Želim vam lijepu jesen jer kad je lijepa, predivna je! Vaša

Sadržaj Sljedeći broj izlazi u prosincu 2015.

6 Povijest grada: 54 Kultura: 120 godina zgrade HNK Dolac: od naselja do tržnice u Zagrebu

18 Gradnja najveće zagrebačke tržnice 64 Intervju: Jadranka Lady Beresford - Peirse 22 Zgrada Arko-Hercog na Dolcu 8-9 70 Obrtna škola - Bolléova kovačnica stila 26 Feljton: Plemićka obitelj Rauch (1): 86 Dvorci, kurije i njihovi vlasnici: Rodoslovlje kao sudbina Dva dvorca u Oroslavju - Barokna baština bez baštinika 30 Povijest poštanske službe u Zagrebu (1) 108 Zdravlje: Jezik 34 Vinogradarstvo i vinarstvo u Zagrebu 110 Zdrava hrana: 42 Zagreb moj drugi grad: Gorko je zdravo Timo Rajakangas, veleposlanik 112 Intervju: Suzy Josipović Redžepagić Republike Finske u Hrvatskoj

Iznos možete uplatiti uplatnicom za slanje novca PRETPLATITE SE na na adresu Bibra izdavaštvo, Tomislavov trg 21, 10000 Zagreb ili Želite li se pretplatiti na na žiroračun: HR5124000081110046478. časopis Zagreb moj grad Molimo da nam svakako pošaljete i svoju adresu na mail za ovu godinu? [email protected] ili fax 01/4880 555 jer se uplate Pretplata iznosi 75 kuna. koje stižu na naš žiroračun ne vode pod imenom i prezimenom Novi pretplatnici dobivaju jedan časopis iz 2014. na dar. pretplatnika.

Časopis Zagreb moj grad dobio je 2011. godine preporuku Ministarstva znanosti, obrazovanja i športa i Gradskog ureda za kulturu, obrazovanje i sport da se koristi kao dopunska literatura u nastavi hrvatskoga jezika i književnosti, povijesti, likovne kulture, glazbene umjetnosti i drugih oblika nastave, kao što su projektna nastava ili interdisciplinarni oblici rada u školama. Časopis se preporučuje i školskim knjižnicama.

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