Málaga & Costa Del

Footprint Málaga & Costa del Sol n Extensive coverage of the best- and lesser- known places, from the pueblos blancos and sun-drenched beaches to the surreal rock forms of El Torcal Málaga & Costa del Sol n Expert author Andy Symington knows Spain inside out, having lived there for over a decade n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations MALAGA to ensure you find the best accommodation, chiringuito and museum n Comprehensive information to immerse you in Málaga’s history and culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Southern Spain

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES ‘Sets the pace for the rest to follow.’ MICHAEL PALIN Footprint Handbook

Travel: Europe / Spain UK £7.99 2nd edition USA $11.99 ISBN 978 1 910120 42 2 Málaga & Costa del Sol footprinttravelguides.com ANDY SYMINGTON Planning your trip...... 2

Málaga city...... 9 Historic centre...... 10 The Waterfront...... 14 Other museums and galleries ...... 15 Concepción Botanical Gardens...... 16

East from Málaga...... 22 Nerja...... 22

La Axarquía...... 26 Driving through La Axarquía...... 27 Walking in La Axarquía...... 28

Costa del Sol ...... 32 Torremolinos and Benalmádena...... 33 Fuengirola and Mijas...... 34 Marbella...... 36 Around Marbella...... 42

North from Málaga...... 45 Garganta del Chorro and Bobastro...... 45 Ardales and Carratraca...... 47 Antequera and around...... 48

Ronda...... 53 Sights...... 54

Background...... 64

Practicalities...... 98 Footprint Handbook Málaga & Costa del Sol ANDY SYMINGTON Málaga Málaga may be the smallest province in Andalucía, but it compensates with its significant population and economy, much of it based on tourism. The provincial capital is the vastly underrated Málaga, Andalucía’s second largest city with a lively nightlife, Picasso museum, trendy shops and some of the region’s best tapas bars. The city beach is actually a more attractive strip of sand than many of the gravelly offerings of the Costa del Sol.

The Costa del Sol has a vast influx of Northern European and Spanish tourists every year, and a large expat population. The small-time fishing villages strung along this coast are long gone, swallowed by overdevelopment, a line of beachside hotels and golf courses that stretches almost unbroken the length of the province.

Venture inland, however, and you will discover a more authentic Spain. Towns like Antequera with its prehistoric dolmens have evocative historic appeal, while more recent Moorish influence is seen throughout the region, particularly in architecture and culture. Less than an hour away from the glitzy resort of Marbella, the ancient town of Ronda may be on the coach-tour circuit but is still stunning, set on the El Tajo gorge, while nearby pueblos blancos (white villages) are timelessly preserved – and you still need Spanish to order a beer.

Inland mountain ranges include the Serranía de Ronda and the limestone block of El Torcal, with its surrealistic eroded shapes. Rivers have cut deep gorges, such as El Chorro, and many have been dammed to form reservoirs like Guadalhorce. East of Málaga is the dramatic La Axarquía and pretty white villages. Andy Symington Best of

Málaga Best of Cambodia top things to do and see

1 Cathedral, Málaga city The city’s one-towered cathedral stands proud over the old town. Built in the 16th century, its principal highlight is the stunning choir, whose stalls are backed by beautifully realized sculptures of saints that are some of Pedro de Mena’s finest work. Page 10. 2 Museo Picasso, Málaga city Occupying a noble palace deep in the heart of historic Málaga's warren of streets, this has a sizeable collection of works by the city's most famous son. It’s great to see so many of his works in one place and it gives you a very good overview of his artistic trajectory. Page 11.

3 The Alcazaba, Málaga city Perched high over the town, this fortress and the adjoining Gibralfaro castle are sizeable Moorish fortifications which offer stunning views over the city, coastline and the blue sea below. At their base is a Roman theatre. Page 12.

4 • 5 Málaga's waterfront The renovated waterfront stretches from the main street of the old town along to the pleasant town beach. It's a picturesque strip made for leisurely strolling, with boat trips, shops and cafés backed by parkland. Page 14. 6 La Axarquía Set back from the coast, this zone of charming hill villages was once notorious bandit country but is now ripe for exploration on foot, with lots of great walks and comfortable rustic places to stay. Page 26. 4 Museo Carmen Thyssen Though the more famous canvases of Picasso hog the Málaga headlines, this gallery in the pedestrianized centre of the city focuses on 19th-century Andalucían art and does it very well, with romantic depictions of idealized Spanish life. Page 14.

• 5 Granada 7 Marbella The province's most famous coastal resort has plenty of brash tastelessness along the coast nearby, but the town itself is very charming, with a quaint feel to its historic centre and a lively eating scene by the beach. Page 36. 8 Bobastro A place of great natural beauty with an appealing solitude, where the ruined fortress of a ninth-century warlord is in a spectacular setting with magnificent views. Page 46. 9 Granada Antequera This inland town makes a great stop and has plenty to see. Its enormous prehistoric dolmens are hugely atmospheric, while its impressive collegiate church and fortress tower over the centre. Nearby, a wolf park and impressive natural limestone formations add extra interest. Page 49. 0 Ronda The charm of this cloven city comes not just from the gorge that divides it, but also from its wealth of museums and historic buildings, scenic highland surroundings, and status as the cradle of modern bullfighting. Page 52.

• 7 Frigiliana Málaga city Málaga city Though no more than an airport for millions of sunseekers, Málaga is an important Spanish port and city with plenty to offer, perhaps more than the rest of its province’s coast put together. Once bypassed by tourists en route to the beach resorts, these days Andalucía’s second largest city is a draw of its own with the Picasso Museum as the main crowd-puller. Málaga’s charm lies in the historic city centre with its narrow pedestrian streets. The long town beach is pretty clean, and there’s plenty of good-value accommodation. The city is looking very spruce these days, with the designer boutiques of its central streets overlooked by the Moorish castle. It’s also got a great tapas scene and one of Andalucía’s liveliest fiestas.

Weather Málaga

January February March April May June 15°C 17°C 20°C 23°C 26°C 27°C ) 6°C ) 6°C ) 9°C ) 11°C ) 13°C ! 17°C 73mm 59mm 49mm 41mm 25mm 9mm

July August September October November December 30°C 30°C 28°C 26°C 20°C 16°C ! 20°C! 20°C ) 18°C ) 14°C ) 10°C ) 7°C 1mm 5mm 16mm 60mm 95mm 88mm

Málaga Málaga city ● 9 Historic centre majestic cathedral, sun-baked ochre buildings and narrow streets

Most of the places of interest in Málaga are contained within a compact atmospheric area of 19th-century streets and squares north of the main east–west thoroughfare and can be conveniently visited on foot. Look out for the new Museo de Málaga, whose archaeological and art collections are to be located in the sturdy Palacio de la Aduana near the Roman theatre; it’s due to open in early 2016.

HThe cathedral and around C Molina Lario s/n, T952-215917. Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700. €5. Málaga’s cathedral, as with many others in Andalucía, was built on the site of a mosque and dates from the 16th century, with numerous modifications at later dates. One of its two towers was never completed, giving it a lopsided appearance, leading to the nickname of La Manquita, or the one-armed lady. The interior is both Gothic and Renaissance, while the exterior is typical 18th-century Baroque, aside from a particularly fine Gothic doorway in Plateresque style that dates from the early 16th century. The highlight of the interior is, without doubt, the choir. Behind the stalls are some superb carvings of saints, 42 of which are attributed to Pedro de Mena around 1662 (de Mena’s house, now a museum devoted to the painter Revello de Toro, is located in a back street about 500 m from the cathedral). Rearing above the choir stalls are two 18th-century Essential Málaga organs. The north entrance, the Portal of the Chains, which is usually closed Getting around except for Semana Santa processions, is surrounded by a fine screen, carved Most of Málaga city’s monuments in mahogany and cedar by Francisco and museums are within a compact Flores in 1772, with the coats of arms area and can be conveniently visited of Felipe II. The admission fee to the on foot. Taxis, however, are cheap cathedral also includes entry to the run- and plentiful. down museo near the entrance door, which contains the usual vestments Best restaurants and silver. Antigua Casa de Guardia, page 19 There are a number of interesting Isabella Taller de Cocina, page 18 churches in Málaga centre, the most Mesón Astorga, page 18 outstanding being the Iglesia del Sagrario I Mon-Sat 1000-1200, 1700- When to go 1830, Sun 1000-1330, adjacent to the cathedral with an superb Plateresque Málaga is sun-kissed year-round. retablo, and Nuestra Señora de la Time required Victoria I Mon-Sat 0830-1245, 1800- 2030, Sun 0830-1300, €2, in Calle Victoria, At least two days to see the main sights. which has further work by de Mena.

10 ● Málaga Málaga city BACKGROUND Málaga Málaga has a long history dating back to the Phoenicians, who founded a settlement called Malaka, a word derived from malac, meaning to salt fish. Málaga became a busy trading port during Roman times, exporting minerals and agricultural produce from the interior. From the eighth century, Málaga was occupied by the Moors, when it was the main port for the province of Granada. It was they, under Yusef I, who built the Gibralfaro fortress in the 14th century. The city fell to the Catholics in 1487 after a long and violent siege. After the expulsion of the morisco population in the mid-16th century, the fortunes of Málaga declined. It was not until the 19th century, when an agricultural-based revival began, that the situation improved. Gradually, the Costa capital began to become a favoured wintering place for wealthy madrileños. During the Civil War, Málaga supported the Republicans and the city suffered from the vicious fighting which included an Italian bombardment that destroyed part of its ancient centre. Over the last 40 years, mass tourism has transformed the neighbouring Costa del Sol, but has thankfully had little damaging effect on the city itself, which remains intrinsically Spanish.

Next to the cathedral on Plaza del Obispo, surrounded by open-air bars and cafés, is the 18th-century Palacio del Obispo, or Episcopal Palace, with one of the most beautiful façades in the city.

HMuseo Picasso Málaga C San Agustín 8, T952-602731, www.museopicassomalaga.org. Tue-Thu 1000-2000, Fri-Sat 1000-2100, Sun 1000-2000. Collection €8, exhibitions €4.50, both €10. This museum has made a significant impact on Málaga; it’s put it on the map as a destination in its own right rather than a transport hub for the Costa del Sol. The museum is set in the beautiful Buenavista palace, and the juxtaposition of Renaissance architecture and modern painting has been artfully realized. On display are some 150 Picasso works, mostly donated by his daughter-in-law and grandson. Most phases of the artist’s trajectory are represented, from formal portraiture – Olga con Mantilla (1917) is a portrait of his first wife – to Blue Period and Cubist works, and many from the later stages of Picasso’s life. While the collection will disappoint some, as Picasso’s best work is in other museums in Spain and around the world, it’s an excellent opportunity to see a lot of his oeuvre in one place. There are regular temporary exhibitions on Picasso or his contemporaries; there is also a café and bookshop here. Not far away, you can visit the Casa Natal de Picasso I T952-060215, www. fundacionpicasso.es, 0930-2000, €2, Picasso’s birthplace and now the headquarters of the Picasso Foundation. It is located in the large Plaza de la Merced and has a selection of Picasso’s ceramics and lithographs as well as a small selection of his parents’ personal objects.

Málaga Málaga city ● 11 HThe Alcazaba T952-216005, Nov-Mar Mon 0900-1800, Tue-Sun 0830-1930, Apr-Oct Mon 0900- 2000, Tue-Sun 0900-2015. €2.25, free Sun from 1400 (€3.55 joint entry price with Castillo Gibralfaro).

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12 ● Málaga Málaga city This former fortress and palace was begun by the Moors in the 700s, but most of the structure dates from the mid-11th century. The site was originally occupied by both the Phoenicians and the Romans and there remains a considerable amount of Roman masonry in the walls. The Alcazaba suffered badly during the Catholic

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Málaga Málaga city ● 13 Málaga’s Museo del Vino I Plaza de los Viñeros 1, www.museovinomalaga.com, €5, Mon-Fri 1000-1700, Sat 1000-1400, is located in a restored palacio a short walk northwest of the old centre. The modern but slightly functional display takes you through the history and actuality of winemaking in the Málaga area through a series of display panels in Spanish. Guided tours leave according to availability for no extra cost and the guide speaks English. The price of admission includes a tasting of a dry and a sweet wine; you can add extra wines for €1 each.

Concepción Botanical Gardens a cool escape from the heat of the city and beach

4 km north of the city centre, T951-926180, www.laconcepcion.malaga.eu. Tue-Sun 0930-2030, until 1730 in winter, last entry 1 hr before. €5, guided tour, with multilingual guides, for 1½ hrs. Easy access, well signposted off the Málaga–Antequera autovía, just off the Ronda de Málaga; get bus No 2 and walk 10 mins north; city sightseeing tour buses also head out there Tue-Sun from the bus station. These botanical gardens are well worth a visit and have an interesting history, being created over 150 years ago by Amalia Heredia and her husband, the American George Loring, a mining tycoon, who later became the Marquis of Casa- Loring. They collected plants from many parts of the world and also accumulated an important archaeological collection. The visit leads to a mirador giving stunning views over Málaga (the cathedral and castle are clearly visible) and the enormous stone dam of La Concepción reservoir.

Listings Málaga city map p12

Tourist information and bus station, plus several information kiosks in the centre. Regional tourist office Pasaje Chinitas 4, T952-213445, Where to stay [email protected]. Mon-Fri 0900-1930, Sat and Sun 0930-1500. There’s a good range of accommodation for all budgets in the central area Municipal tourist office around the Alameda near the port. Pl de la Marina, T952-926020, www. Prices go up in summer; some cheaper malagaturismo.com. Daily 0900-1800 options at this time include university (2000 Apr-Oct). residences, which you can reserve via Between the port and the centre, this www.booking.com. tourist office has free city audio guides, plus various self-guided walking tours. At €€€€ Parador de Gibralfaro C Granada 70, near the Picasso museum, Paseo García del Olmo, T952-221902, is the Ben Gabirol visitor centre. There are www.parador.es. also smaller tourist offices at the airport In a dreamy setting, surrounded by pine trees, next to the Moorish castle with

16 ● Málaga Málaga city panoramic views. The rooms are simply many extras including hydromassage yet tastefully decorated with warm in the en suite bathrooms and internet colours, woven rugs and terracotta access in all rooms. You can get cheaper tiles. There are private entrances and deals on hotel booking websites. sun terraces. The restaurant dishes up €€ Hotel California regional and international fare. Have Paseo de Sancha 17, T952-215164, www. a drink on the terrace even if you’re hotelcalifornianet.com. not staying here and take in the vista. Near the beach at the eastern end Booking essential. of town, this is a friendly hotel with €€€ Hotel Molina Lario unremarkable but spacious rooms C Molina Lario 20, T952-062002, www. despite the ominous name. The staff are hotelmolinalario.com. very helpful and it represents significant Near the cathedral, this 4-star choice value for this coastline. successfully spreads itself to appeal to €€ Hotel del Pintor both the work traveller, with sleek design C Alamos 27, T952-060980, www. and business facilities, and families, with hoteldelpintor.com. kid-friendly staff, and a rooftop pool and Handily located just on the edge of the terrace to relax. The rooms are spacious, old quarter, in easy striking distance of sparklingly clean and stylishly modern; Picasso attractions, this bright white those facing the street are the most modern place features small but appealing. Recommended. attractive rooms – grab an interior one to €€€ Room Mate Larios avoid the street noise – and friendly staff. Marqués de Larios 2, T952-222200, www. € Casa Babylon room-mate hotels.com. C Pedro de Quejana 3, T952-267228, This has an upbeat feel to match its top www.casababylonhostel.com. location on Málaga’s swanky pedestrian Laid-back but facility packed, this shopping street. The cheerful yet backpackers in a suburban house offers elegant decor features black and white comfortable new bunks, an instant tiles, cream, maroon and warm-toned Málaga social life, cheap beer and free furnishings and plenty of light wood. internet. The only downside is it’s a bit Try for a room overlooking the bustling of a trek from the centre of the action. Plaza de la Constitución, although it Breakfast included. can be noisy on a Sat night. You can get some very good deals on the website, Restaurants depending on the date. There are some very convivial €€ Eurostars Astoria restaurants where you can enjoy C Comandante Benítez 5, T951-014300, traditional local specialities, such as www.eurostars hotels.com. fritura malagueña (fried fish), washed Slick 3-star hotel near the Contemporary down with Málaga’s famous wine, Art Gallery and Alameda train station, for a sherry-like substance that comes trains to the airport. Rooms are spacious in sweet and dry varieties. Many of with plenty of gleaming marble and light the best fish restaurants as well as wood. Excellent value for the price with

Málaga Málaga city ● 17 Practicalities Málaga

Getting there ...... 99 Getting around ...... 102 Where to stay...... 106 Food and drink...... 108 Essentials A-Z...... 112 Basic Spanish...... 120 Food glossary...... 124 Glossary of architectural terms...... 131 Index...... 134

● 98 Getting there

Air There are numerous options for reaching Málaga. Málaga airport is served regularly by flights from a wide variety of European cities; add in all the standard and charter flights, and it’s one of Europe’s easiest destinations to reach. Charter flights are cheaper and are run by package holiday firms. You can find bargains through travel agencies or online. The drawback of these flights is that they usually have a fixed return flight, often only a week or a fortnight later, and they frequently depart at antisocial hours. An upside is that charter flights operate from many regional airports. Before booking, it’s worth doing a bit of online research. Three of the best search engines for flight comparisons are www.opodo.com, www.skyscanner.com and www.kayak.com, which compare prices from a range of agencies. To keep up to date with the ever-changing routes available, sites like www.flightmapper.net are handy. Flightchecker (http://flightchecker.moneysavingexpert.com) is handy for checking multiple dates for budget airline deals.

Flights from the UK Competition has benefited travellers in recent years. Budget operators have taken a significant slice of the market and forced other airlines to compete.

Budget There are numerous budget connections from the UK to Málaga. Easyjet and Ryanair connect Málaga with over a dozen UK airports, while other budget airlines running various routes from the UK to Málaga include Flybe, Vueling, Norwegian, Jet2, Thomson and Monarch.

Charter There are numerous charter flights to Málaga from many British and Irish airports. Avro I www.avro.co.uk, Thomas Cook I www.thomascook.com, and Thomson I www.thomson.co.uk, are some of the best charter flight providers, but it’s also worth checking the travel pages of newspapers for cheap deals. The website www.flightsdirect.com is also a good tool to search for charter flights.

Non-budget flights Málaga has scheduled flights with several airlines including Iberia and British Airways flying direct from London airports and a few other UK cities.

Flights from the rest of Europe There are numerous budget airlines operating from European and Spanish cities to Málaga. Numerous charter flights operate to Málaga from Germany, Scandinavia, France, the Netherlands and Belgium.

Practicalities Málaga ● 99 Index A Entries in bold refer to maps

A Cela, CJ 95 food 108 Cervantes, M de 93 glossary 124 accommodation 106, 115 Chambao 96 tapas 109 price codes 106 Christian kingdoms 71 vegetarian 109 Acinipo 58 Civil War 82 Franco, F 82 airlines 99 Cómpeta 27 Frigiliana 28 Al-Andalus 69 Cortés, J 96 Fuengirola 34 Aleixandre, V 95 Costa del Sol 32 Alfarnate 28 costs 115 G Algatocín 60 Cueva de la Pileta 58 Al-Manzur 72, 73 Cueva de los Letreros 65 García Lorca, F 94 Alora 45 Cueva de los Murciélagos Garganta del Chorro 45 Antequera 48 65 garum 67 Archez 27 culture 85 Gaucín 60 Archidona 51 currency 115 Gaudí 91 architecture 85, 131 customs 112 gay travellers 113 Ardales 47 cycling 104 Golden Age 75 art 90 González, F 84 Atajate 60 D Goya, F 91 Averroes 92, 93 dance 95 H B flamenco 95 health 113 disabled travellers 112 banks 115 Hispania 66 dolmens 49 Benadalidad 60 history 65 drink 110 Benalauría 60 Christian kingdoms 71 driving in Spain 103 Bobastro 46 Golden Age 75 bullfighting 58 E Hispania 66 buses 102 La República 81 El Camino del Rey 45 La Transicón 84 C El Romeral 50 Reconquista 71 El Torcal 50 Visigoths 68 Caesar, Julius 67 emergencies 112 hitching 104 camping 107 Estepona 42 hotels 106 Canillas de Albaida circuit price codes 106 29 F Cano, A 91 I car hire 103 Falla, M de 96 Carratraca 47 ferry 100 Ibn Hafsun 46 cars 102 fiestas 113 immigration 119 Casares 43 flights 99 internet 114 Isla, C de la 96

134 ● Index J money 115 Spanish 114 exchange rates 115 student travellers 105, 116 Jiménez, JR 94 motorcycling 104 sun burn 114 Murillo, BE 91 K Museo Carmen Thyssen 14 T music 95 Ketama 96 Tartessian 66 N tax 115, 117 L taxis 104 Nerja 22 time 117 La Axarquía 26 Cuevas de Nerja 23 tipping 117 Laguna de la Fuente de toros 58 Piedra 51 O Torremolinos 33 language 114, 115 tourist information 117 lesbian travellers 113 Ojén 42 tour operators 118 literature 92 opening hours 116 trains 104 Lope de Rueda 93 transport 99-105 Los Millares 65 P Turdetanians 66 Lucía, P de 96 parking 103 V M Picasso, P 91 Pizarra 45 Velázquez, D 90 Machado, Antonio 94 price codes 106 Vélez Málaga 27 Maimonides, M 92, 93 Primo de Rivera, M 81 visas 119 Málaga 9, 12 R Alcazaba 12 W Casa Natal de Picasso 11 restaurants 108 Castillo Gibralfaro 14 walking 28, 29 price codes 106 cathedral 10 websites 118 Ronda 53, 56 excursions 16 wine 110 history 11 S working 119 Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares Sabina, J 97 Y 15 safety 116 youth hostels 107 Puerta de Atarazañas 15 San Isidoro 69 maps 105 Sayalonga 27 Z Marbella 36, 38 Sayalonga circuit 28 Martínez Montañés, J 91 sherry 110 Zurbarán, F de 90

FOOTPRINT Features Antonio Machado 94 Packing for Málaga 100 Averroes and Maimonides 93 San Isidoro 69 Conqueror, The 72

Index ● 135 Footprint Málaga & Costa del Sol n Extensive coverage of the best- and lesser- known places, from the pueblos blancos and sun-drenched beaches to the surreal rock forms of El Torcal Málaga & Costa del Sol n Expert author Andy Symington knows Spain inside out, having lived there for over a decade n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations MALAGA to ensure you find the best accommodation, chiringuito and museum n Comprehensive information to immerse you in Málaga’s history and culture n Footprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Southern Spain

‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES ‘Sets the pace for the rest to follow.’ MICHAEL PALIN Footprint Handbook

Travel: Europe / Spain UK £7.99 2nd edition USA $11.99 ISBN 978 1 910120 42 2 Málaga & Costa del Sol footprinttravelguides.com ANDY SYMINGTON