Málaga & Costa Del

Footprint Málaga & Costa del Sol n Extensive coverage of the best- and lesser- known places, from the pueblos blancos and sun-drenched beaches to the surreal rock forms of El Torcal Málaga & Costa del Sol del & Costa Málaga n Expert author Andy Symington knows Spain inside out, having lived there for over a decade n Inspirational colour section and detailed maps to help you plan your trip n Authoritative advice and recommendations MALAGA to ensure you find the best accommodation, chiringuito and museum n Comprehensive information to immerse you in Málaga’s history and culture n F ootprint have built on years of experience to become the experts on Southern Spain ‘Footprint is the best – engagingly written, comprehensive, honest and bang on the ball.’ THE SUNDAY TIMES ‘Sets the pace for the rest to follow.’ MICHAEL PALIN Footprint Handbook Travel: Europe / Spain UK £7.99 2nd edition USA $11.99 ISBN 978 1 910120 42 2 Málaga & Costa del Sol footprinttravelguides.com ANDY SYMINGTON Planning your trip. .2 Málaga city. .9 Historic centre. .10 The Waterfront. .14 Other museums and galleries . .15 Concepción Botanical Gardens. 16 East from Málaga. .22 Nerja. .22 La Axarquía. .26 Driving through La Axarquía. .27 Walking in La Axarquía. .28 Costa del Sol . .32 Torremolinos and Benalmádena. .33 Fuengirola and Mijas. .34 Marbella. .36 Around Marbella. .42 North from Málaga. .45 Garganta del Chorro and Bobastro. .45 Ardales and Carratraca. .47 Antequera and around. .48 Ronda. .53 Sights. .54 Background. .64 Practicalities. .98 Footprint Handbook Málaga & Costa del Sol ANDY SYMINGTON Málaga Málaga may be the smallest province in Andalucía, but it compensates with its significant population and economy, much of it based on tourism. The provincial capital is the vastly underrated Málaga, Andalucía’s second largest city with a lively nightlife, Picasso museum, trendy shops and some of the region’s best tapas bars. The city beach is actually a more attractive strip of sand than many of the gravelly offerings of the Costa del Sol. The Costa del Sol has a vast influx of Northern European and Spanish tourists every year, and a large expat population. The small-time fishing villages strung along this coast are long gone, swallowed by overdevelopment, a line of beachside hotels and golf courses that stretches almost unbroken the length of the province. Venture inland, however, and you will discover a more authentic Spain. Towns like Antequera with its prehistoric dolmens have evocative historic appeal, while more recent Moorish influence is seen throughout the region, particularly in architecture and culture. Less than an hour away from the glitzy resort of Marbella, the ancient town of Ronda may be on the coach-tour circuit but is still stunning, set on the El Tajo gorge, while nearby pueblos blancos (white villages) are timelessly preserved – and you still need Spanish to order a beer. Inland mountain ranges include the Serranía de Ronda and the limestone block of El Torcal, with its surrealistic eroded shapes. Rivers have cut deep gorges, such as El Chorro, and many have been dammed to form reservoirs like Guadalhorce. East of Málaga is the dramatic La Axarquía and pretty white villages. Andy Symington Best of Málaga Best of Cambodia top things to do and see 1 Cathedral, Málaga city The city’s one-towered cathedral stands proud over the old town. Built in the 16th century, its principal highlight is the stunning choir, whose stalls are backed by beautifully realized sculptures of saints that are some of Pedro de Mena’s finest work. Page 10. 2 Museo Picasso, Málaga city Occupying a noble palace deep in the heart of historic Málaga's warren of streets, this has a sizeable collection of works by the city's most famous son. It’s great to see so many of his works in one place and it gives you a very good overview of his artistic trajectory. Page 11. 3 The Alcazaba, Málaga city Perched high over the town, this fortress and the adjoining Gibralfaro castle are sizeable Moorish fortifications which offer stunning views over the city, coastline and the blue sea below. At their base is a Roman theatre. Page 12. 4 • 5 Málaga's waterfront The renovated waterfront stretches from the main street of the old town along to the pleasant town beach. It's a picturesque strip made for leisurely strolling, with boat trips, shops and cafés backed by parkland. Page 14. 6 La Axarquía Set back from the coast, this zone of charming hill villages was once notorious bandit country but is now ripe for exploration on foot, with lots of great walks and comfortable rustic places to stay. Page 26. 4 Museo Carmen Thyssen Though the more famous canvases of Picasso hog the Málaga headlines, this gallery in the pedestrianized centre of the city focuses on 19th-century Andalucían art and does it very well, with romantic depictions of idealized Spanish life. Page 14. • 5 Granada 7 Marbella The province's most famous coastal resort has plenty of brash tastelessness along the coast nearby, but the town itself is very charming, with a quaint feel to its historic centre and a lively eating scene by the beach. Page 36. 8 Bobastro A place of great natural beauty with an appealing solitude, where the ruined fortress of a ninth-century warlord is in a spectacular setting with magnificent views. Page 46. 9 Granada Antequera This inland town makes a great stop and has plenty to see. Its enormous prehistoric dolmens are hugely atmospheric, while its impressive collegiate church and fortress tower over the centre. Nearby, a wolf park and impressive natural limestone formations add extra interest. Page 49. 0 Ronda The charm of this cloven city comes not just from the gorge that divides it, but also from its wealth of museums and historic buildings, scenic highland surroundings, and status as the cradle of modern bullfighting. Page 52. • 7 Frigiliana Málaga city Málaga city Though no more than an airport for millions of sunseekers, Málaga is an important Spanish port and city with plenty to offer, perhaps more than the rest of its province’s coast put together. Once bypassed by tourists en route to the beach resorts, these days Andalucía’s second largest city is a draw of its own with the Picasso Museum as the main crowd-puller. Málaga’s charm lies in the historic city centre with its narrow pedestrian streets. The long town beach is pretty clean, and there’s plenty of good-value accommodation. The city is looking very spruce these days, with the designer boutiques of its central streets overlooked by the Moorish castle. It’s also got a great tapas scene and one of Andalucía’s liveliest fiestas. Weather Málaga January February March April May June 15°C 17°C 20°C 23°C 26°C 27°C ) 6°C ) 6°C ) 9°C ) 11°C ) 13°C ! 17°C 73mm 59mm 49mm 41mm 25mm 9mm July August September October November December 30°C 30°C 28°C 26°C 20°C 16°C ! 20°C! 20°C ) 18°C ) 14°C ) 10°C ) 7°C 1mm 5mm 16mm 60mm 95mm 88mm Málaga Málaga city ● 9 Historic centre majestic cathedral, sun-baked ochre buildings and narrow streets Most of the places of interest in Málaga are contained within a compact atmospheric area of 19th-century streets and squares north of the main east–west thoroughfare and can be conveniently visited on foot. Look out for the new Museo de Málaga, whose archaeological and art collections are to be located in the sturdy Palacio de la Aduana near the Roman theatre; it’s due to open in early 2016. HThe cathedral and around C Molina Lario s/n, T952-215917. Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat 1000-1700. €5. Málaga’s cathedral, as with many others in Andalucía, was built on the site of a mosque and dates from the 16th century, with numerous modifications at later dates. One of its two towers was never completed, giving it a lopsided appearance, leading to the nickname of La Manquita, or the one-armed lady. The interior is both Gothic and Renaissance, while the exterior is typical 18th-century Baroque, aside from a particularly fine Gothic doorway in Plateresque style that dates from the early 16th century. The highlight of the interior is, without doubt, the choir. Behind the stalls are some superb carvings of saints, 42 of which are attributed to Pedro de Mena around 1662 (de Mena’s house, now a museum devoted to the painter Revello de Toro, is located in a back street about 500 m from the cathedral). Rearing above the choir stalls are two 18th-century Essential Málaga organs. The north entrance, the Portal of the Chains, which is usually closed Getting around except for Semana Santa processions, is surrounded by a fine screen, carved Most of Málaga city’s monuments in mahogany and cedar by Francisco and museums are within a compact Flores in 1772, with the coats of arms area and can be conveniently visited of Felipe II. The admission fee to the on foot. Taxis, however, are cheap cathedral also includes entry to the run- and plentiful. down museo near the entrance door, which contains the usual vestments Best restaurants and silver. Antigua Casa de Guardia, page 19 There are a number of interesting Isabella Taller de Cocina, page 18 churches in Málaga centre, the most Mesón Astorga, page 18 outstanding being the Iglesia del Sagrario I Mon-Sat 1000-1200, 1700- When to go 1830, Sun 1000-1330, adjacent to the cathedral with an superb Plateresque Málaga is sun-kissed year-round.

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