WEST END HISTORIC CONTEXT STATEMENT

July 28, 2013 Revised April 2015

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 1 2 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of WEST END HISTORIC CONTEXT STATEMENT

July 28, 2013 Revised April 2015

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION Brief description of the area . . . 5 Purpose of the report . . . . . 5 2. CHRONOLOGY ...... 7 Timeline with important events 3. HISTORIC CONTEXT STATEMENT . . . 19 A description of West End’s formation and evolution 4. THEMES ...... 35 What are theme? Thematic Framework for the West End 5. HERITAGE VALUE STATEMENT BY THEME A Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ Speaking Peoples . . . 37 B Making the Desirable Suburb . . . 43 C Apartment and Tower Living . . . 47 D Diverse Culture . . . . 50 E Regional Icon . . . . . 53 6. HERITAGE FEATURES What are Heritage Features? . . . . 50 Heritage Features listed by Theme . . . 51 7. PHOTO CREDITS . . . . . 94 8. REFERENCES ...... 99

4 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver INTRODUCTION

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE AREA The West End is the area of present-day Vancouver bounded to the south by English Bay, to the north by West , to the east and west by and respectively.

PURPOSE Of THE REPORT The purpose of this report is to provide a brief history of the formation and evolution of the West End, in order to understand where heritage values lie, and to identify examples of features in the West End that would best illustrate the full range of those values. The CHRONOLOGY makes clear that the history of the settlement of the place began many thousands of years ago with the settlement of the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓-speaking people, long before the European settlement of the area. The HISTORIC CONTEXT STATEMENT draws out the overlay of periods of settlement, helping reveal the history of the place, which has been dynamically changing since European settlement. Because of its key location next to the sea, it has been a choice spot for residential development and habitation: the Musqueam use of the area, and major village sites in the neighbouring Stanley Park; the early bungalow and apartment development of Victorian and Edwardian suburb, and later apartment development in both low-rise and high-rise forms. The THEMES section of the report seeks to give a sense of proportion to the formative forces that made the West End. Importantly, the themes insert the culture of the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓-speaking people to the heritage of the place for their historic and current culture. It stresses the uniqueness of the prevalence of the apartment form in the area. The themes section also highlights the very important dual nature of the West End, being both a sustaining local community and a popular regional and global destination. The HERITAGE VALUE STATEMENT section draws out the values of the West End, which give it a unique character. The Statement conveys the community’s valuing of the legacy of affordability of the area’s residential accommodation and local shopping areas, and value placed on the community by all Vancouverites for its exciting culture and natural amenities. The HERITAGE FEATURES section of the report outlines the sort of places found in the West End that illustrate the history and character of the neighbourhood, as identified in the Heritage Value Statement. The Heritage Features section can be used as a tool to help identify which major stories of the West End’s development are under-represented in the Heritage Register, and also displays what stories will need interpretation for their telling due to a lack of physical evidence.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 5 6 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver CHRONOLOGY

The following chronology notes important dates by year, the event, and the impact of the event on the forma- tion of present day West End. . Year Event Change c 10,000 BC The last glaciers retreat from the North Shore the Henqiminum-speaking Musqueam and Tsleil-Waututh mountains, leaving the glacial deposits that became the peoples’ use and occupy their traditional territory Vancouver area, including .

c 4000 BC Indigenous Coast Salish live and travel throughout the Coast Salish cultural practices shape the land area now known as the West End, with several village and home sites, including several in the Stanley Park area. c 1776 Spanish navigators introduce smallpox disease to the Profound effect on the aboriginal culture and land and native population killing a significant percentage of the waters aboriginal community 1792 Captain George Vancouver writes his arrival into Example of the welcoming tradition of the aboriginal the waters of what is today Stanley Park, and being people. greeted by about 50 aboriginal people, who were very civil, and who presented him with several fish 1860s Existing landscapes were cleared away with the logging Early logging activity disrupts Musqueam cultural practices of the huge trees, and clearing of the land to make way that have shaped the land for pre-emption 1862 District Lot 185 is pre-empted by John Morton, William First non-native interevention in the area apart from Hailstone and Samuel Brighouse logging activities in Stanley Park 1860s - 1880s Existing landscapes were cleared away with logging Without reserve status, most homes and villages were activity destroyed, and Musqueam people were placed on reserves in the Southern part of the city. The Tsleil- Waututh people were placed on a reserve on the North Shore. 1872-3 Second smallpox epidemic among Musqueam wiping Musqueam presence severely impacted out 90% of 100,000 population 1888 Henry Mole builds a house on Comox Street Early settlement and development 1888 Stanley Park is dedicated and opened Draws people to the area. Two park entrances are created, one on Beach Avenue 1889 Logging contractors log the area Early economic activity and change 1889 Water service for Vancouver Prompts development in the northeast corner of the neighbourhood between Burrard and Bute Street south to Davie Street 1889 The West End School opens at Barclay and Burrard Gives the neighbourhood its name

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 7 8 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Year Event Change 1890 Red Cross Brewery established on a creek near Early waterfront industry and use of local resources, the Thurlow Street on brewery dammed Tyndall Creek to provide water 1890s Settlement continues in the north east corner at Burrard Growth of the community Street and along the bluff above , and begins along . Prompted in part by the industrialization of Burrard Inlet and . Since the prevailing winds are from the south west, the West End became a popular place to live since the winds pushed the smoke and smells farther eastward. 1894-1900’s Beach camping at English Bay is popular Camps were the set up on the beach in the summer to get away from the city. A small patch of sand at the food of Denman served as the swimming beach. 1890s Sand pumped up on the rocks to enlarge the beach from The begining of English Bay as a destination for English Bay Vancouverites. Helps define the image of Vancouver. 1890s Street leveling programs Reshaping the landscape for transportation leaves some properties high above the street, creates a landscape of large stone walls. 1891 The West End takes its name from the school at Barclay Sense of place and Burrard Streets 1895 1898 St Paul’s Anglican moved from and Moving away from the industrialization of Yaletown rebuilt in the West End 1895 the streetcar line is extended along , to This helped to open up the neighbourhood to development Stanley Park and Davie Street to English Bay and prompted apartment and rooming house construction. The English Bay line became a popular tourist desination and the sightseeing street car began at Denman and Davie Streets. 1898 streetcar loop completed with the construction of the line Promotes real estate development onDenman 1898 Vancouver Lawn and Tennis Club relocates to Denman Social and recreational at Barclay 1900s West of Denman Street to Stanley Park becomes the Sense of place for the well to do home for many very prominent residents of the city 1900 Joe Fortes officially hired as the life guard at English Social history Bay 1901 Gabriola built for BT Rogers at Davie and Nicola Streets Last remaining mansion and grounds 1901 The first concrete sidewalks are laid A growing suburb modernizing quickly. The earliest surviving sidewalk in the city is 1906 at Robson and Jervis Streets. 1903 Houses and bush While there is growth and development much of the area is still scrub and bush with many unpaved streets. 1905 An enlarged St Paul’s Anglican opens Expansion of services

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 9 10 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Year Event Change 1907 The earliest apartment buildings in Vancouver. The Streetcar influenced development, which would change construction of the Manhattan on Robson Street begun. the face of the neighbourhood 1907 Fire Hall No. 6 built First fire hall purposely built for motorized equipment 1907 Imperial Roller Rink on the triangle (now a park) English Bay as a destination for the rest of the City bounded by Denman, Morton and Beach 1907 Lord Roberts School opens Growth of the neighbourhood 1907 - 1937 English Bay pier at the end of Gilford Street is English Bay, a place for all Vancouverites developed including The Prom, a glassed-in pavilion where local dance bands played 1908 Apartments and houses being built at the same time Evolution of the neighbourhood 1909 The opening of the Shaughnessy Heights subdivision Prompted a number of residents to move across False Creek, though the exodus took a number of years, and many of the original owners stayed put. 1909 Horse Show building opens on the block of Alberni, Major sports, recreation and social entity on the edge of Georgia and Gilford Streets the neighbourhood and Stanley PArk 1909 Mohawk poet E. Pauline Johnson dies. She lived her final days in the West End and is credited with naming Lost Lagoon 1909 Strathmore Lodge (Royal Alexandra Apartments) one of Introduced elegant apartment living to Vancouver. the largest of the early apartment buildings Cited by Bartholomew as an example of too much density, leading to a limit to the number of allowable storeys. 1910 Baptist Church at Nelson and Burrard built Consolidation of community 1911 Denman Arena opens at the foot of Denman at Georgia Sports history with Vancouver’s only Stanley Cup in 1915 c 1913 Indian Rights Association established Continuing efforts of aboriginal people to fight expropriation of their traditional lands. 1913 First Park Board motion to demolish houses on the Re-imagining the waterfront as a City-wide asset and water side of Beach Drive amenity 1920 - 1960s Large homes converted to apartment houses, schools, The changing face of the community and private hospitals 1920 Polar bear Swim started One of the largest such events in the world with over 2000 entrants 1922 Evictions of the last remaining indigenous people (with Re-invention of the place as untouched wilderness Cummings holding out) living in their Stanley Park homes 1927 New zoning calls for apartments in the majority of the Major change for the area West End 1930s A growing number of apartment buildings Reflects the growth of the city 1931-33 St Andrew’s Wesley built at Nelson and Burrard Transformation of Burrard Street from residential. Creates entrance to neighbourhood at Nelson Street with Baptist Church opposite. 1933 Sylvia Apartments converted to hotel Tourism and focus on English Bay as destination 1933 Residents complain of “excessive” property Demolition and conversion of single family homes to assessments based on development potential apartments and rooming houses 1936 Denman Arena burns to the ground Loss of major facility.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 11 12 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Year Event Change 1939 The opens in the bathhouse West End and English Bay as a destination for the rest of buildings in 1939, only relocating to Stanley Park in the City 1956 1940s Influx of wartime workers to the city Houses are converted by the federal government to rooming houses to ease the housing shortage 1942 Gordon Neighbourhood House opens Providing social services to a changing population 1950s Many smaller homes demolished for a series of simple 3 Neighbourhood begins to be perceived as an apartment storey apartment buildings in the International style. district 1950s Postwar immigration creates German influenced Robson Street was once known locally as Robson Strasse, commercial area on Robson Street, between Burrard which later became a tourist promotion; nothing remains and Jervis Streets from that era today 1952 Blanche Brillon MacDonald wins Miss English Bay title An important Aboriginal Vancouverite who was a in a contest sponsored by the Canadian Legion successful business woman and worked tirelessly for her community. Among her many initiatives she launched a journalism school with the Native Communications Society of BC, and in 1960 she founded the Blanche MacDonald school, which continues to this day. 1950-1955 Estimated that 90 three-storey apartment buildings Substantial change in the neighbourhood constructed 1956 Zoning regulations lift the height limit for apartment Influx of development construction 1958 First zoning amendment allows greater height for a The highrise neighbourhood emerges smaller building footprint 1961 Former Horseshow Building burns to the ground Leaves large undeveloped parcel not developed until the 1990s 1962 Balconies allowed for the first time in exchange for The evolution of the tall building height and smaller footprints 1962 The first Vancouver Sea festival English Bay as a place to celebrate and gather 1963 King George High School moves to Denman Street Consolidation of the residential community 1964 Larger balconies for taller and thinner towers The form of the neighbourhood in set for the next 20 years 1966 CBC’s West End 66 film Characterizes the area as glamorous and a home to swingers, celebrates the modern neighbourhood 1960s As towers grow taller, developers don’t subdivide large Gives the neighbourhood its characteristic feel of lush properties but use the property size to accommodate a landscape shallow parking garage with a garden planted on top 1970s Federally funded affordable apartment towers appear on These buildings begin the discussion about the tower form the skyline in the neighbourhood 1971 Robert Collier’s report for Vancouver’s Social Planning Results showed that despite outside criticism of the Department: Towards a Social program for the West neighbourhood and its density, residents enjoy living there. End 1973 First traffic calming in the form of mini parks, which Redefining the neighbourhood and livability close streets

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 13 14 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Year Event Change 1973 Neighbourhood down-zoned over concerns about Redefining the neighbourhood and livability density 1974 Aquatic Centre opens, replacing the old Crystal Pool A community and city-wide facility is built 1975 Community Plan for the neighbourhood The plan addressed concerns raised in the 1971 Social Development Committee report. Draft plan released in 1973 1976 Library opens on Denman, dedicated to Joe Fortes Social building block for the neighbourhood 1976 Musqueam Declaration formulated Musqueam community publicly and formally affirms and signed Aboriginal title and rights to use their traditional territory 1978 Community centre opens its doors. Social building block for the neighbourhood 1978 First Nations workers at the Muckamuck restaurant go The strike for a first contract with the non-native owners on strike would go on for three years, with the owners eventually closing the restaurant rather than abide by Labour Relations Board rulings 1979 and Community Centre opens on Bute Now known as Queer Resource Center, offers a Street number of programs for the LGBT community 1980 Conference on prostitution held at West End Community Held by Concerned Residents of the West End (CROWE) Centre as a result of a growing problem 1981 Englesea Lodge demolished The last of the waterside buildings on English Bay is removed after fire destroys much of the building 1983 AIDS Vancouver formed Marker of development of gay community in West End 1984 West End Seniors Network incorporated as society Providing information and programs to area seniors 1984 Shame The Johns Campaign Neighbourhood activism to push prostitution from the neighbourhood 1984 Supreme Court injunction obtained by the Attorney Significant moment for West End residents, which impacts General prohibiting solicitation west of Granville is other neighbourhoods issued 1985 Barclay Heritage Square opens Neighbourhood heritage takeN seriously, unique solutions for housing and community amenities 1986 Commercial Area Policy Plan Defined four distinct commercial areas in the West End, prompted new zoning 1990 Fireworks Festival begins Huge crowds attend, cause some problems for residents 1990 Roedde House Museum opens to the public Vancouver’s first house museum 1999 Mole Hill complete Unique community development, heritage revitalization and housing opportunities 1999 Davie Village named Sense of place. Received recognition in 2012 from the Vancouver Heritage Foundation as a Place That Matters. 2000’s Vancouver Sculpture Symposium Art work is installed around the city. The West End (now Biennale) receives a number of important pieces 2007 Artist Susan Point’s “Welcome Gates” unveiled at the For the first time the Musqueam are represented here Brockton Point totem poles

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 15 16 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Year Event Change 2013 22 storey tower approved for St John’s Church site Community concern about process informs community planning process 2013 Comox/Helmcken greenway opens New neighbourhood connections 2013 “Amazing Laughter” is permanently installed in the park An iconic piece of art for the neighbourhood at Denman and Davie Streets

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 17 “You walk in the footsteps of our ancestors wherever you go in the West End here, the actual, original people of this land, the Mus- queam people, that shared much of it through negotiations”. Larry Grant, 2013

“Our territory, once rich in natural resources, offered our ancestors a life of abundance. In return, our people were and still are the keepers of the lands and waters that sustain us.” (Musqueam community profile)

18 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver HISTORICAL CONTEXT STATEMENT

Glaciers recede

The West End lies on glacial till, which was deposited at the foot of the North Shore Mountains during the last Ice Age more than ten thousand years ago.

The hən̓q̓əmin̓əm-speaking people thrive on good footing The indigenous Coast Salish people have lived in Vancouver for at least 9,000 years. The area now known as the West End is an important part of the traditional territory of the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm-speaking people, Mus- queam and Tsleil-Waututh, and, more recently, the Squamish people. The indigenous hən̓q̓əmin̓əm-speaking people traveled throughout their lands and waters, sustainably using the abundance of resources through hunting, fishing, gathering to maintain their livelihoods, and a cultural complex based in large part upon the bighouse and ceremony.

Occupied for thousands of years, the West End, and, in particular, Stanley Park, is an area deeply layered with indigenous history—trails, which are part of a large network covering Metro Vancouver and beyond, including large villages, middens, burial sites, clam beds, hunting grounds, berry patches, recreation sites, and other centres. The hən̓q̓əmin̓əm word for English Bay translates as ‘good footing’. In what is now the West End, there was a culture of having watchmen and runners relay messages across the territory. The sea beaches were valued for their clam-beds. Nearby Deadman’s island in Coal Harbour were grounds for the dead. There were houses throughout what is now Stanley Park. Local people had agreements about the use of resources, negotiating use and access of different areas for the benefit of all. Landforms have stories. Seasonal changes shape everyday life. The local people have always moved with the rhythms of the land, and they are intimately connected to their land and the many plants and animals, which are part of this rich ecosystem including cedar (homes, canoes, clothing, baskets), salmon (food), mountain goat (food, bones and horns for tools, wool for blankets), sturgeon (food), waterfowl (food, feathers), salal (food, medicine), clams (food), and much more.

Musqueam oral history affirms the extensive cultural landscapes and narratives of the West End area, includ- ing place names, and village sites–including the large village of Xwayxway, which is known today as Lumber- man’s Arch, as well places where people gathered certain food and materials. Runners and watchmen were based in various lookouts and camps to protect people and relay messages. Part of a strong warrior tradition, these men ran all across the Vancouver area, and on the North Shore.

With the arrival and subsequent settlement of European newcomers, local indigenous people were severely impacted by the spread of diseases like small pox, measles, and thousands of people lost their lives. This, along with the intensity of resource extraction, restrictive ‘Indian’ policies, and the reserve system, meant that European newcomers assumed control over much of the indigenous land and resources, and began the process of city-building.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 19 20 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Early Development of the Suburb

“Choice land was pre-empted by settlers and lands were surveyed with no regard to Musqueam title or interests. Eventually, we were relegated to three small par- cels of reserve land – a fraction of our traditional territory.” (Musqueam community profile)

The non-native presence in what is today’s West End begins with the survey and pre-emption of District Lot 185 by John Morton, William Hailstone and Samuel Brighouse in 1862. (What became Stanley Park was a government reserve.) John Morton was chosen by the trio to live on the pre-emption and prove the claim. Ac- cording to Morton’s son his cabin was built in a one acre clearing 100 yards west of today’s Burrard Street on the edge of a creek on the shore of Burrard Inlet.

John Morton was a potter and was interested in the clay near the coal deposit found on the shore line of Coal Harbour. He visited the area with a local indigenous guide and was quite taken with the location and the beauty of the site. He convinced two of his friends to join him in pre-empting land in the area for the princely sum of about a dollar an acre. This deal for property so far away from the established City of New Westmin- ster, along with Morton’s thought that the clay deposits might be suitable for making bricks, earned the trio the nickname of the “three greenhorn Englishmen” with the “brickmaker’s claim”.

Nothing happened with the property. The clay turned out to be unsuitable for bricks and so the partners made do selling timber to local mills through the 1870s and early 1880s. The massive cedars, which are central to local Coast Salish culture, continued to be cut down along with the Douglas fir and other trees in the rush to profit from the land and make way for new settlement. David Oppenheimer, (Vancouver’s second mayor) showed an interest in the area and began purchasing land on Burrard Inlet in 1878. Oppenheimer convinced Morton, Hailstone and Brighouse to sell him a piece of their property by telling them that with his connections he would be able to convince the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) to extend their rail line into Coal Harbour. The new partners hired surveyor George Turner to create a subdivision plan for “New Liverpool” with the aim of selling lots. The plan was drawn, though not surveyed on the ground, and registered in 1882 at the Land Titles office in , although no development took place at the time.

Landowners on Burrard Inlet had begun lobbying the provincial government to assist the CPR in extending their line westward from Port Moody to Coal Harbour. After Oppenheimer convinced the owners to offer about 175 acres of land, or one third of the surveyed lots in the immediate vicinity as an incentive, the government added their 485 acre government reserve between today’s Cambie and Burrard Streets to the offer. The CPR was happy to accept the land even though they had already made the decision to extend the line to the area in 1884. With the railway’s imminent arrival the residents successfully petitioned the government to incorpo- rate the City of Vancouver in 1886.

After incorporation, the CPR’s surveyor, Lachlan Hamilton, set to work laying out the new city. He ap- proached the owners of DL 185 to ask them to withdraw the New Liverpool plan so that he could resurvey the area to bring it in line with the rest of his work but they refused. Unable to reach agreement, Hamilton was forced to survey what was shown on the earlier plan. As a result, few of the neighbourhood’s streets connect

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 21 22 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver with the larger city grid, but the plan’s larger lots would make the neighbourhood more attractive to potential purchasers.

Early development was concentrated on the streets north of Georgia with many large homes being built along Hastings Street on the bluff overlooking the harbour. There were a few homes built on Robson and Alberni Streets and one or two on the site of today’s Mole Hill block - Henry Mole had retired from farming on the and moved to the area in 1888. His neighbour was William Mace, who’d built a house there the same year.

Stanley Park, the former government reserve, was opened to the public in 1888 and it quickly became a popular destination for residents of the young city. The creation of the park with its entrances at the end of Georgia Street and Beach Avenue helped draw people to the West End and highlighted how its location next to the business district, but separate from the industry of False Creek and Burrard Inlet, would make it an at- tractive place to build. Lost in the city-building excitement was the First Nation peoples ancient and continu- ing use of the land. When surveyors and road builders created the Park Drive perimeter road, they knocked the down homes and leveled a midden. Indigenous people’s use of land including traditional resource gath- ering areas was increasingly impeded by the ongoing encroachment of the city’s development including its park. Coast Salish people and then-recent settlers of many cultures were forcedly removed from their homes and villages in the park.

With the rapid growth of the city a number of schools were built to cope with the burgeoning student popu- lation and the West End School opened in 1889 at Barclay and Burrard Streets with five teachers and 300 students. It’s from this school that the neighbourhood takes its name. In addition to the public school, the Granville School and Miss Gordon’s School (Crofton House), both private girls schools opened in the neigh- bourhood in 1896 and 1898. Other institutions were built nearby such as, St. Paul’s Hospital in 1894. In 1898, St Paul’s Anglican church was physically moved to the corner of Jervis and Pendrell Streets from its former location in Yaletown.

The lots between Burrard and Bute Streets south of Georgia Street began to get developed as water service reached the neighbourhood in 1889. Development logically followed the water lines which resulted in pock- ets of houses spread out across the neighbourhood. By 1909, water service had been extended to cover the entire West End and the empty lots were soon built upon.

Some roads first built in the West End, such as Beach Avenue and part of West Pender Street, were based upon indigenous trails. In 1895, streetcar service began running on Robson Street to Denman Street and to Stanley Park. On Davie Street the service terminated at English Bay at the foot of Denman Street. The loop was completed in 1898 with the expansion of service along Denman Street. Residents now had easy and fre- quent connections to downtown. The streetcar service helped open the West End to development and many contractors were active building an eclectic range of houses from extraordinary mansions to modest cottages. “Where Burrard Street crossed Davie Street, the pedestrian jumped down two or three feet into a quagmire of mud, walked across Davie Street which was being opened up, and climbed up again on the other side”

Major Matthews recounting a walk in 1899

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 23 24 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver The West End was like other neighbourhoods in the city with a mix of incomes and housing type. While parts of the West End such as the streets west of Denman Street, and Burnaby and Harwood Street on the slope overlooking English Bay attracted the wealthy, there was still room for the small builder and more modest houses.

When the CPR’s new Shaughnessy subdivision was announced in 1907 a number of West End residents took the opportunity to purchase a lot there. The attraction was the size of available lots, which offered a chance to create a large estate within easy reach of the city. While many residents moved to new homes in Shaugh- nessy, many (like the Bell-Irving’s) preferred the West End over Shaughnessy. During this period, the homes of the West End were actually a tourist attraction: tour buses made regular trips through the neighbourhood. BC Electric ran their new sightseeing streetcars from a terminus on English Bay.

In 1907, construction began on the Manhattan Apartments at Robson and Thurlow Streets. The three storey brick and timber frame apartment, considered the first of its type in Vancouver, stood in contrast to the sur- rounding houses. Designed by architects Parr and Fee, the building was a sign of the change to come to the neighbourhood. At the time of its construction Vancouver’s population had reached 75,000 and in three years would top over 100,000. The downtown was thriving and there was a need for accommodation for those work- ing there.

The West End saw a huge number of apartments constructed throughout the neighbourhood between 1907 and 1913. In one or two cases they replaced existing houses, but the majority were built on empty lots. As the West End developed in the years leading up to the First World War apartment buildings were being built at the same time as many of the neighbourhood’s houses. Apartments proved to be popular: in 1911 there were approximately 25 apartments in the West End out of a total of 49 in the city. By 1913 that number had doubled. The economic downturn, which began in 1913, put a damper on construction for awhile but soon demand was growing. Many new apartments were constructed in the popular styles of the day and many of the larger homes on the market would be purchased and converted to apartment houses - distinct from a rooming house conversion, these apartment houses offered self-contained units. A count in 1922 shows that there are 62 apartments in the West End and by 1927 that number has risen to 107. One factor, which drove the change, was that the 1927 interim zoning for the neighbourhood made no provision for the construction of single family homes.

“In these days, when apartment houses are so much in demand, Vancouver in the future should be deemed very fortunate in the possession of an apartment district west of Burrard Street which, while contiguous to business, has also the desiderata of a residential district, due to its proximity to Stanley Park and the foreshore of English Bay.”

Bartholomew Plan, 1928

Later low-rise and high-rise apartment development mostly replaced the original detached house development in the area. But pockets of original residential development still exist and are highly valued by residents of the West End for lending a pedestrian-friendly, low-rise residential ambience to the neighbourhood; the

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 25 26 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver houses comprising Mole Hill and Barkley Square are two good examples. Cardero Street between Robson Street and English Bay is a particularly significant grouping of houses and older low-rise apartment build- ings, helping form a unique low scale pedestrian-friendly north-south route in the middle of the West End.

The Loop

Today Robson, Denman and Davie Streets are major retail streets serving as destination shopping for the city while still meeting the local community’s needs. However, this situation had a long and slow evolution. The stage was set by the completion of the transit Loop in the 1890s; there was a continuous trolley service along Robson, Davie and Denman Streets. While the transit loop helped bring residential development to the area, retail uses wouldn’t develop until much later.

The Vancouver Lawn Tennis Club relocated from their original location on the CPR Park at Georgia and Granville Streets to new grass and cinder courts on Denman Street at Barclay Street in 1898. The sparse de- velopment at this end of the neighbourhood and the easy transportation was one of the factors in determining the new location. The club in turn helped to attract development to this end of the district. Denman remained a largely residential street though there was retail at the English Bay end and a few older houses had stores added to them around 1912. By the late 1930s Denman was the main neighbourhood shopping street, which included a Piggly Wiggly store (later Safeway) the neighbourhood’s first supermarket, a movie theatre, and other stores. A few houses remained until the 1960s. In 1963, King George High school was relocated to Denman on the site of the tennis club

On Davie Street, businessmen like B.T. Rogers, lumberman William Sulley, and the Kelly Douglas Company partners built large homes up the slope towards Jervis Street. At the top of the hill two substantial apart- ment buildings, Blenheim Lodge and Holly Lodge–both built in 1910/11–dominated the street. Many of the homeowners began adding stores in the front yard of their houses and by the 1920s there were pockets of retail. By the 1960s, the redevelopment of the surrounding neighbourhood the majority of the houses had been replaced with commercial and residential apartment buildings. Davie Street between Jervis and Burrard Streets has been known as Davie Village since 1999 and is the focus of the gay community in Vancouver.

A number of early apartment buildings were built on Robson Street because of its proximity to the business district; retail was quick to develop on the blocks of Robson Street between Burrard and Bute Streets, which included a few office buildings such as the Unemployment Commission Building. With postwar immigration, a European retail enclave was established with book stores, groceries and restaurants and the street was known through the 1960s and into the 1970s as Robsonstrasse. The 1960s also saw the construction of large hotels such as the Sheraton Landmark (constructed in 1974) and Blue Horizon along with a number of smaller hotels on the slope towards Denman Street. Recent development has included the Robson Public Market and the new Safeway complex at Denman and Davie Streets, as well as a cluster of Japanese and Korean restau- rants as a result of the large population of ESL language students living in the West End.

The City of Vancouver wrote new guidelines for Robson Street in the 1980s recognizing its importance as a retail street. The new regulations controlled height and setbacks to prevent the loss of sunlight and they stressed the importance of the rhythm of the narrow lot and the individual store front to maintain the char-

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 27 28 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver acter of the street. Robson Street is firmly embedded in the city’s psyche as the main downtown shopping street.

The three major retail stretches of Robson, Denman and Davie streets help define three distinct centres within the West End, and the character of the area as a whole. Often referred to as villages, these centres are important to local residents for day-to-day provisioning, services, and entertainment. Their connection to each other and with the City as a whole via the bus service loop help give the villages public profile, and boosts their distinct roles as character-defining features of the West End: Robson for high-fashion, Denman for its entertainment and connection to English Bay, and Davie for being the traditional centre of the LGBTQ community.

Apartments to Towers (and back again)

The 1927 zoning plan allowed the construction of six storey concrete apartments in the West End but it wasn’t until after WWII that these buildings began to make an appearance. They began replacing the larger homes which, due to economic conditions, were becoming neglected and shabby. While the new buildings displaced rooming house tenants most people seemed happy to see the old houses go. The first of the new buildings was the Beach Town Home constructed in 1949 on Beach Avenue. In a feature article in March 1953, the Vancouver Sun praised these new and attractive buildings and hoped that they would be “bringing back the dignity” to the area that it had lost during the Great Depression. The writer noted that there were over 20 apartment buildings under construction in the area west of Denman Street alone.

Many of these new buildings were cutting-edge Modernism designed by a number of young architects. Along Chilco Street Semmens and Simpson created a series of striking buildings and one of Arthur Erickson and Geoff Massey’s first projects is an apartment on Chilco at Comox Streets. The neighbourhood was character- ized as a place for youth and the swinger - at least by a CBC film entitled “West End 66”.

At the same time, the three storey wood frame walk up was gradually replacing individual houses throughout the West End. These straight-forward buildings were designed to maximize the available lot and had parking at the rear under an overhang of the second floor. The buildings could be built with a penthouse on the roof as long as it was no more than 20% of the roof area and was occupied by the building manager or the owner. While structurally identical, the buildings were constructed with a variety of colours and facing materials including the distinctive blue Murano tile used by the Wosk family. The Ding Bat is increasingly being recog- nized as a building type with historical value in some jurisdictions, including the United States, where it is also encountered.

In 1958 the City raised the height limit on buildings with the goal of creating smaller foot prints, so that buildings “would not deprive the area of lawns, trees, greenery, air, light and space”. The resulting build- ings were too bulky for the City’s liking so in 1962 adjustments were made to permit small “Juliet” balconies in return for a taller building and smaller foot print. The policy was adjusted again in 1964, permitting larger balconies for even greater height. The image of the tower in a garden is a combination of the old residential infrastructure of sidewalks, boulevards and mature street trees, with large green spaces or gardens, which are usually the roof of the shallow parking structure.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 29 30 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver “To outsiders, the West End is defined by towers. On the ground level, it’s a green, human-scaled, intimate and visually interesting neighborhood that just happens to have a few towers within it.” Steve Boland

By the 1970s there were worries over the density of the West End and by 1973 the district had been down- zoned to a three storey height limit. At the same time increasing traffic cutting through the neighbourhood resulted in the City creating a number of mini-parks which provided some much needed green space along with the traffic calming.

As the result of the increasing density the Park Board had been quietly purchasing property since the late 1950s in order to create new parks for residents. Up until then, the neighbourhood had no parks except for Alexandra Park with its bandstand at English Bay and Stanley Park. Nelson Park was created in stages, starting in the early 1960s by slowly demolishing the block between Bute and Thurlow Streets, and Nelson and Comox Streets to create new open space. However, plans were made for Park Site 19 between Nicola, Broughton, Barclay and Haro Streets. But plans ran into opposition as attitudes to history and heritage changed. The park site became part of a national conversation with luminaries such as Pierre Burton call- ing for the retention of the houses on the site. In the end an unique scheme promoted by local activist Janet Bingham and the Community Arts Council saw selective demolition to open up green space, while retaining and restoring three significant houses. Seven other homes were turned into affordable family housing. The three restored houses have become an important part of the community. The Weekes house is an AIDS hos- pice, Barclay Manor is run by the West End Senior’s Centre and the Roedde House is a museum.

Mole Hill to the south of Nelson Park was originally slated for demolition to provide active recreation space, but after a number of years of negotiations, the block of homes was preserved and provide housing, space for the Dr. Peter Centre, day care and other amenities. The project has won numerous awards for its innova- tive approach to community, heritage and environmental issues.

English Bay

Known to the local indigenous people as ʔəy̓əlxən which means ‘good under foot’ in their language, hən̓q̓əmin̓əm, this area has always been popular as a place to gather and enjoy the sandy beach. For new residents, English Bay was far enough away from the centre of the city that it became a popular swimming spot and camping location. In the very early days residents had to walk along a trail through the bush and new growth of the recently logged forest to reach the beach. As the West End developed, roads were opened which helped make the journey a little easier and by 1895 a streetcar was running on Davie Street to the foot of Denman Street.

The development at English Bay reflects the area’s popularity with Vancouverites. Small houses and cabins were built at the water’s edge between Stanley Park and the foot of Denman Street while a number of semi- permanent campsites were established along the shoreline up to the foot of Bidwell Street. Some of these were family owned and erected for the summer season while others were commercial enterprises offering space for rent. Above the tents on Burnaby Street at Bidwell Street a cluster of small cottages was built in 1901.

The growing popularity of the beach prompted the development of privately owned bathing pavilions such as

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 31 32 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver the Crescent and the Pavilion which appeared in 1900. Tea rooms and boat houses along with amusements like the water chute jostled for space on or near the beach. In 1907, the Imperial roller rink opened for busi- ness and occupied the triangle of land between Denman Street, Beach Avenue and Morton Street. Its corner tower was a prominent landmark on the neighbourhood skyline until 1914 when the rink burned to the ground. The land was later purchased for a park.

In 1905, the Park Board built the first bathhouse on the shoreline which replaced the older private facilities. It was torn down in 1931 for the construction of a new concrete bathhouse which still stands today. The 1909 addition to the original bathhouse was converted into an aquarium in 1939; the aquarium was closed in 1956.

In 1910, the first of the apartment buildings began to appear amongst the houses and through the 1920s and 30s a number of elegant Tudor inspired buildings were built along Beach Avenue, the grandest being Tudor Manor at Jervis Street and Beach Avenue. By the 1950s most of the remaining houses had succumbed to the wrecking ball to be replaced by a series of modernist buildings and in the 1990s some of these smaller build- ings were themselves replaced by larger condominium projects. The landmark Sylvia Hotel building appeared on the skyline in 1912 as a residence, only in the 1930s becoming a hotel. In 1954 the hotel opened Vancou- ver’s first cocktail lounge.

The water side of Beach Avenue had been the subject of much discussion. In 1913 the Board passed the first motion to investigate the idea of purchasing and demolishing the houses and other structures on the wa- ter side of Beach Avenue, although it wasn’t until the 1950s that the last of the houses east of Bidwell Street finally came down. The Englesea Lodge at the edge of Stanley Park hung on until the 1980s before finally being torn down to create the open vista from the to Stanley Park, and the Crystal Pool, the indoor pool for West End residents, survived at the foot of Jervis Street until it was torn down in the 1970s, replaced with the Aquatic Centre next to the Burrard Street Bridge.

English Bay has always played host to a number of festivals, special events and parades. For example, in 1949 the Canadian Legion created the Miss English Bay competition, and its 1952 winner was Blanche Mac- donald, an important Aboriginal Vancouverite. Today, English Bay is where the city goes to hang out, take in parades, and it is known nationally and internationally for events staged along the seashore. The West End is a unique local community, which has sustained itself over the years, and which is also a popular regional and global destination. It is often the home to many Vancouverites during one or other period of their lives, whether as a young person, as a first short stop in the city, or to retire in. Its social and physical infrastructure and its many apartments and services allow this diverse population to feel at home. In the eyes of many visitors the West End is a symbol of Vancouver, a place that distills the natural, cultural and urban elements that make up the Vancouver experience.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 33 34 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver HERITAGE THEMES

This framework of themes follows from an understanding of the cultural history of West End, which is summarized in the Chronology and Historical Context Statement preceding this section. Together, the themes seek to capture in shorthand the heritage of the community under six key insights into its formation and evolution. They serve to guide an understanding of West End’s heritage values and the identification of key heritage features.

THEME 1 Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ Speaking Peoples This theme describes the aboriginal people’s sustainable use and occupation of their traditional territory, in- cluding what is now termed the West End. It makes the link between the natural history of the peninsula and their cultural landscape. The theme also relates the continued connection of the place with the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ speaking peoples.

THEME 2 Making the Desirable Suburb This theme addresses the overlaying of the aboriginal cultural and physical landscape with the European suburban model, characterized by the subdivision of the land into properties principally for the construction of bungalows, urban parks, the creation of Stanley Park, and the development of English Bay. It addresses the boosterism of the early years of its deveopment. The theme describes the making of the West End plans, which persist to this day.

THEME 3 Apartment and Tower Living This theme describes the importance of apartment accommodation to the culture of the West End right from the time of its initial development through to the present day. It relates the story of the rise of apartment towers ushered in by zoning changes in the late 1950s, and their social and physical effects on the neighbourhood.

THEME 4 Diverse Culture Accommodated by the huge stock of apartments, the West End is important as a fluid cultural and social scene. The neighbourhood is important for its history of cultural diversity, and its ever-changing nature, as new groups identify the area as the place in which they wish to live.

THEME 5 Regional Icon This theme describes the importance of the West End to the the City’s character and image. For new or short term residents to Vancouver, the West End helps to define the City as a whole, with the visual impor- tance of the West End skyline a defining factor in the identity of the place.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 35 36 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver HERITAGE VALUE STATEMENT BY THEME

The themes outlined in this section of the report follow from an understanding of the history of the West End summarized in the preceding Chronology and Historical Context Statement sections. They seek to capture in shorthand the major stories of the formation and evolution of this historic nieghbourhood.

Theme 1 Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ Speaking Peoples

As a result of the till deposited during the retreat of the last glaciers around 10,000 years ago, the formation of the peninsula on which the West End is situated has scientific value for its contribution to the community’s geographical character, including its sloped topography, hydrology, and ecology.

The community is characterized by natural features such as the ocean waters of English Bay, False Creek and Burrard Inlet, its original forest ecology still seen in the vast acres of Stanley Park, sand and rocky beach landforms and views of the North Shore mountains, Stanley Park and English Bay. The once-vegetated slopes of the West End contained forests of cedar, hemlock, pine and Douglas fir, which were used by the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ speaking peoples, the Musqueam and Tsleil-Waututh, with cedar being of particular value.

These still-visible natural attributes underscore the continuous presence and enduring sense of stewardship of the lands, waters and living creatures of this area, the traditional territory of the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm speaking peoples, Musqueam and Tsleil-Waututh who have lived in this area for millen- nia, and more recently, the Squamish Nation. All these peoples set up fishing camps along the shore, harvested local clam beds, lived in longhouses and homes in villages throughout the area including Coal Harbour, Stanley Park, Lost Lagoon, Brockton Point, and Qwayqway, which was also a place of potlatches. A system of foot trails connected these places, while watchmen runners relayed mes- sages across the traditional territory. Places for the dead, middens, and many other places of value related to everyday life were found throughout the landscape.

The recognition of places of First Nations use and settlement in Stanley Park and along English Bay is a valuable marker of the perseverance of these peoples and their ongoing contribution to the cul- ture of the area. Without reserve status, most homes and villages were destroyed, with Coast Salish people restricted to reserves elsewhere in their traditional lands.

Many in the community value the past and current presence of First Nations in the West End, seen in their appreciation for the culture. Comments from previous planning workshops expressed a hope that the Coast Salish people be specifically consulted in any community planning or other activities taking place in the neighbourhood.

General characteristics associated with this theme:

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 37 38 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver • The presence of the ocean and its associated features and landforms such as beaches or rocky shores • Indigenous plant communities • Views • Natural history features that are directly associated with the Musqueam and other First Nations peoples • Cultural history features that are directly associated with the Musqueam and other First Nations peoples • Physical or documentary evidence of early trail networks or transportation routes • The immediacy and accessibility of the water’s edge by the public • Diversity of life supported by the thriving ecosystem

THEME 2 Making the Desirable Suburb

The natural landscape of the West End was transformed and the lives of its original inhabitants disrupted through the logging of the massive trees of the native forest, which took place beginning in the 1860s. First Nations grounds for the dead, homes and harvesting sites were lost, and indigenous lands and resources were used to create the community that would become the West End, and wealth for the early settlers. The earliest logging occurred as a result of the first pre-emptions in the area, most notably in 1862 by the Three Greenhorns (Samuel Brighouse, John Morton, William Hailstone). The three are historically important for their early vision of the place that at that time consisted of forest by the sea, well-distanced from more de- veloped markets such as New Westminster. Notwithstanding the resulting impairment of the natural landscape and indigenous culture, this early pre- emption and subsequent survey and real estate marketing of the proposed subdivision of New Liverpool resulted in the aesthetically valued street grid, narrow streets, back lanes and small lot pattern, which today give the West End its walkability and intimate character. While the vision of New Liverpool was never real- ized, it’s planning, spurred on in part by the industrialization of Burrard Inlet and False Creek, encouraged the construction of the earliest residential homes in the area at the turn of the Twentieth Century, including mansions for wealthy and prominent citizens along English Bay, west of Denman Street to Stanley Park. In turn this development began the garden and street tree tradition and valued by Vancouver’s citizens today.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 39 40 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver The West End continues to be valued for its livability, a quality that the neighbourhood has had since its inception. Continuation of the early street tree planting and garden efforts begun in the early Euro-Canadian settlement along with the area’s small scale lots, blocks and streets, has resulted in the compact and walk- able neighbourhood of today. The original pattern of the local streetcar loop connected the West End to city-wide routes, providing ease of transportation without the need for automobiles, while the high population density resulting from the concentration of apartments and the compactness of the area allowed the develop- ment of commercial streets. These streets are valued for their ability to meet the retail and service needs of West End communities through a diversity of stores, services, restaurants, cafes and businesses, and for their contribution to the vibrancy of the neighbourhood. The walkability of the neighbourhood as a whole is important, including the commercial streets in particular.

Transportation played both a service and social role, as the advent of the streetcar line connected the West End to other areas in Vancouver, and made the English Bay bathing beach accessible to the summertime crowds. The value of the beach lies in its historical use as a food gathering, ceremonial and recreational area, and in the balance between the natural shoreline and modifications, such as the construction of sea walls bath houses and piers. The development of the area as a recreational beach represents a balanced relationship between the natural and cultural elements of the West End. The West End is known for its beach culture, as represented by the strong relationship local indigenous people had with its shores, and epito- mized by the legend of lifeguard Joe Fortes, as well as events such as the Polar Bear Swim, and English Bay‘s focus as an important gathering place for the whole city.

The setting aside of Stanley Park, first as a military reserve in 1859 and later, at the petition of the City government, as parkland, is of great aesthetic, historical and environmental significance. The green forest of the park created a natural backdrop for the West End from its inception, and remains a major feature of the neighbourhood. Stanley Park is a place that provides residents and visitors a glimpse of the West End before colonization. The neighbourhood’s situation at the edge of the forest gives it a sense of connection to earlier times, along with the possibility of retaining or restoring its original character.

The West End is valued for its more modest, but no less important, parks and open spaces, as well as for its easily accessible sports grounds and facilities such as Brockton Oval, the Aquatic Centre and others. The existence and continued cultivation of green spaces, such as parks, street trees, planted landscapes and gardens is highly valued, as are building setbacks which create opportunities for gardens and planting, open spaces and light. Protection of the mature tree canopy and the planting of new trees wherever possible has become a desirable measure of retaining the character of the West End.

The West End is valued for the character of its residential streets and diversity of buildings and citizens, the result of a multi-cultural pioneer community and because the area was never fully developed as an exclu- sive district for the rich, with very modest dwellings existing alongside the mansions. The idea of preserving existing housing stock and apartment buildings (low-rise and high-rise, dating from the 1930s to the 1970s) surfaces regularly as a concern within the community, both for their historic values but also with respect to character, livability, and affordability. Today the areas has a variety of rental accommodations, housing co- operatives and social housing projects in a variety of building and development forms.

The West End’s heritage and character buildings are seen as a key cultural asset, consisting of a wide range of building types and styles, from elegant-living apartments to smaller single family homes. The value of the older homes, in particular the larger ones, lies also in their ability to be converted into a variety of different uses and tenureships, including boarding houses, apartments, schools, private hospitals and restaurants (for

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 41 42 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver example, Gabriola Mansion). Also significant is the conservation of the neighbourhood’s heritage building stock through city initiatives, which allow zoning variances and increased density in return for for heritage conservation.

Public spaces and facilities such as Stanley Park, Barclay Heritage Square, the seawall, St. Paul’s Hospital, the West End Community Centre, the YMCA, Qmunity, the Aquatic Centre, churches, schools, the fire hall and other parks and facilities are important for residents of the West End for their role in making a liveable community, especially when space is at a premium in a high density community. Others, such as Alexandra Park, are valued for their current and future potential as successful community open spaces.

Of social significance in the liveable suburb overlay is the beginning of a structural and service infrastructure to serve the needs of the growing residential population, including the construction of schools and hospitals. The construction of both the Burrard Street Bridge and the Lion’s Gate Bridge culminated in the formation of Georgia and Burrard Streets as main thoroughfares, significant for helping define the West End. The shifted grid of the area west of Burrard Street, compared to the rest of the downtown core also created a defining physical boundary between the West End and the downtown core. The streetcar line was also important for connecting the West End to other areas in Vancouver.

The multi-cultural nature of the West End is also apparent with the number of First Nation, Hawaiian, and Chinese residents, and other cultural groups settling in the area.

General characteristics associated with this theme:

• Disruption of indigenous cultural landscapes and land use • Intense use of the land and resources • The major commercial streets • The remnants of the neighbourhood’s earliest spatial organization, pre-emption and subdivision • Evidence of the evolution of local and regional transportation networks • Walkable streets, small lots and back lanes • Parks, mini-parks and traffic calming measures • Ornamental vegetation in building setbacks, gardens and street trees • Diverse buildings and structures representing all aspects and levels of society • Features and landscapes associated with early residential development and the evolution of the area’s residential character • Examples of affordable housing in a variety of forms

• Places illustrating the connection between high density residential development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives • Places associated with recreation and social life and appreciation of the neighbourhood’s natural amenities • Places associated with community services established for the growing population • Places that reflect the rich ecosystems and pre-colonial character of the West End

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 43 44 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver THEME 3 Apartment and Tower Living

The West End is notable for the development of apartment buildings throughout its history, with the earliest construction beginning in 1907. The arrival of the streetcar that travelled along Robson, Denman and Davie Streets helped open up the neighbourhood for increased residential development and the evolution of these three major shopping streets. Workers in the downtown business district sought reasonable accommodation close to their place of work, and the construction of apartment buildings occurred alongside the continuing construction of single family homes.

The earlier three-storey timber-framed buildings (with basements), and the later six or seven-story struc- tures, are important for their illustration of the West End’s apartment building phenomena between the 1920s and the 1950s. Pre and post-war populations required reasonably priced housing, with larger homes con- verted to apartments and smaller homes demolished to make way for the construction of simple three-storey apartments in the International Style. These buildings are also representative of planning challenges for the City, as bylaws had to be constantly revised to keep pace with apartment construction, while political back- lashes resulted in significant height limitations.

These purpose-built rental apartments are significant for their legacy in providing affordable housing in the West End. They were immediately popular, with low vacancy rates, which provided housing for new, young, or short-term residents. Along with the compactness of the West End and its amenities, these apartments are also an expression of cultural change in the neighbourhood as established residents moved on to other city neighbourhoods, while at the same time retirees moved into or returned to the neighbourhood. The multi- storey structures also provided a critical mass of customers that supported the further development of the three major commercial streets.

This theme is important for its illustration of the impact of the 1956 Zoning By-law, which was intended to increase population base for downtown businesses losing customers to the newly built suburban shopping malls and workers to the suburbs. The resulting residential apartment development would radically change the character of the West End through the evolution of lower height dwellings into the tall towers that today mark the skyline of the neighbourhood.

While the residential towers were disliked by many and resulted in community opposition to limit their devel- opment, they are valuable both historically and aesthetically for their role in defining the iconic skyline of the West End. These buildings are important for their contribution to the aesthetic and design qualities of the place, as Vancouver architects used the apartment boom to experiment with Modernism. Architects and en- gineers immigrating from Europe at the end of the war brought a European design ideology to the West End. The requirements for a smaller tower footprint left space open for Modernist landscaping. Today the commu- nity is composed of a mix of housing types from different eras of development, which exist side by side in the neighbourhood.

The social significance of this theme is illustrated by the increasing population of the West End and the rise in the use of the automobile in the 1950s and ‘60s, which coincided with the increasing attractiveness of the area for both visitors and residents from all parts of the city. While this popularity contributed to the charac- ter of the place, traffic challenges required solutions, such as construction of mini-parks on through-streets, along with traffic calming measures, including the blocking off of selected thoroughfares, the construction of roundabouts, and the implementation of a one-way street system. The diversity of the West End’s grow-

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 45 46 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver ing population was supported by the provision of affordable housing. Rental units, housing co-operatives and social housing in a variety of building and development forms are significant as an expression of lower-cost housing alternatives.

General characteristics associated with this theme:

• Examples of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights • Examples of affordable housing in a variety of forms • Continued presence of detached houses • Mini-parks and traffic calming measures • Landscapes associated with apartment buildings

THEME 4 Diverse Culture

The West End is valued for its singular character that can be attributed in part to the diversity of culture in the area. From Coast Salish potlatch gatherings and ceremonies, to the large gatherings of cultural and religious groups to its many diverse festivals, the West End is a spiritual place, home to multicultural sacred sites and buildings.

Local indigenous cultural values are important contributors to culture including an enduring connection to the land, commercial ventures such as restaurants serving traditional cuisine, and both contemporary and tradi- tional artworks, which reflect the enduring Coast Salish culture in the West End.

Of particular importance is the area’s gay community anchored by the first Gay , which took place in 1978. This culture gives the neighbourhood, particularly Davie Street, a “” feel, and an accompanying sense of freedom, safety and acceptance.

A diversity of cultures is accommodated through the area’s amenities, including the Aquatic Centre, which replaced the original Crystal Pool, the Joe Fortes Library and the West End Community Centre. Parades, festivals, arts and theatre, farmers markets and community gardens all contribute to the West End’s cultural diversity, as does the presence of international students and the tourist who visit the area.

General characteristics associated with this theme:

• Places, past and present, associated with indigenous people and their ongoing representation in the West End • Institutions and open spaces, which accommodate community amenities, recreation and services • Places and features of creativity, artistic endeavours, parades and festivals • Places and events, which attract tourists • Places which represent the multi-cultural nature of the West End • Features which contribute to the community’s sense of place

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 47 48 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver THEME 5 Regional Icon

The West End is valued for is iconic power since its beginnings. It is a memorable intersection of the natural landscape – seen in the beaches, Stanley Park and planted streets – and an urban setting found in the busy commercial streets, cultural experiences, and its arts and festivals and tower development. For new or short term residents to Vancouver, the West End helps to define the City as a whole, with the visual importance of the West End skyline being a defining factor in the identity of the place.

The West End is important as a place in which to illustrate the interface of colonial and indigenous cultures, evident in past proposals to create an “Indian Village” in the Stanley Park area. The value of the West End is also found in the opportunity to bring visibility to the hən̓q̓əmin̓əm speaking people, their continuity on the land, and the enduring spirit of welcome with which they greet newcomers.

Two of Vancouver’s most well-known bridges, the Burrard Street Bridge and the , both lead major streets that frame the West End. The views of, and immediate access to, the Burrard Street Bridge are part of the area’s aesthetic and transportation importance. The West End has value in its role as a destina- tion for local, regional and international visitors to Vancouver, with its tourist amenities such as hotels, infor- mation centres, retail stores and restaurants, tour companies, bicycle rental shops, and other services.

The affordability of its older rental apartments facilitates the flourishing of the urban liveliness that is a part of the West End’s iconic power. There are 121 West End properties listed on the City’s heritage register – most of them older residences and apartments – of which only a few are protected. The West End is memorable for its landscape features, street trees and gardens. These are features that West End residents have identified as worth protecting – such as the relatively recent debate which occurred around a Tulip tree on Harwood Street.

General characteristics associated with this theme:

• Major regional roads – Georgia and Burard Streets – frame the neighbourhood, and lead easily to the neighbourhood • English Bay • Intersection of Davie and Denman Streets, and Beach Avenue • Places, events and services, which provide amenities to tourists • Mix of buildings and landscapes considered to have heritage value such as Barclay Heritage Square, Mole Hill and many more well-know heritage resources

• Stanley Park • Aspects of Stanley Park that convey place as an indigenous place built upon a spirit of welcome and resource sharing

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 49 HERITAGE FEATURES

The following section identifies key or important features which best communicate the major stories of the formation and evolution of the West End. The list includes features that are currently on the Vancouver Heritage Register. They are grouped according to the themes developed in the previous section. The intent is not to produce a full audit of features but rather to explore a few key features relating to each theme.

All heritage features identified in the West End, including places listed on the Vancouver Heritage Register, are listed below by theme. Only the numbered features (seen in left-hand column), which are currently not on the Register, are mapped. Refer to the City of Vancouver’s records for locations of registered features.

50 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Theme 1: Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ Speaking Peoples

Characteristics associated with this theme: • The presence of the ocean and its associated features and landforms such as beaches or rocky shores • Indigenous plant communities • Views • Natural history features, which are directly associated with the Musqueam and other First Nations peoples • Cultural history features, which are directly associated with the Musqueam and other First Nations peoples • Physical or documentary evidence of early trail networks or transportation routes • The immediacy and accessibility of the water’s edge by the public • Diversity of life supported by the thriving ecosystem • Places that reflect the rich ecosystems and pre-colonial character of the West End Places in the West End significant for their association with these characteristics are:

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 51 image location significance 1a Natural access and con- Visibility of and accessibility to these natural landscapes and nection to Stanley Park, historic places of settlement and activity of Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm English Bay and Burrard speaking peoples, evoke their historical and prevailing connec- Inlet beaches. Views of the tion to these lands, both physical and spiritual. Stanley Park, North Shore and the west side of Van- couver () forests and lands. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

1b Beach Avenue Historic Musqueam trail courses are evident in the organization of some current streets, especially Beach Avenue which runs on the course of a Musqueam historic trail connecting st̕it̕əwəq̓ʷ (Second Beach) and sɬχiləx̕ (Siwash Rock) and to an internal trail passing by Beaver Lake. Beach Avenue is valued as evi- dence of a traditional Musqueam transportation route.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 1c Brockton Oval Probably around 1918, young Musqueam runner Ed Sparrow was invited to come and compete at the Brockton Oval. The Brockton Oval Athletic Fields were opened in 1891 on the little peninsula situated at the far eastern point of Stanley Park, the very location where Ed Sparrow’s mother lived before all residents of the area were removed. He won the races and performed very well, but was not sponsored to compete in the Olympic trials because he was Indian. ‘The Runner’ is a big theme in Musqueam culture, representing many aspects of their culture and traditions--warriors and watchmen; athleticism; disci- pline; and extensive systems of communication and defence.

Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb) and 5 (Regional Icon)

52 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1d Prospect Point, near the Pauline Johnson Cairn Stanley Park Tearoom. Pauline Johnson was a Mohawk poet who retired in Vancouver’s West End. She spent much of her time in Stanley Park. She was an ardent canoeist and a great lover of nature and wrote many poems about the park. She is credited with naming Lost Lagoon, and helping to bring attention to Coast Salish narratives of Vancouver. She lived at 1362 Haro Street, and died in the Bute Street Hospital in 1913. In 1922, the Women’s Canadian Club of Vancouver erected a monument in her honour. Her ashes and two of her books, Legends of Vancouver and Flint and Feather , were buried near Siwash Rock.

Related to themes 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1e Stanley Park Musqueam oral history and archaeological surveys affirm that the place now known as Stanley Park was used extensively, and Note: is layered with trails, burial sites, harvesting grounds, lookouts, While Stanley Park is ceremonial sites, etc. Millennia-old village sites in Stanley not within the West End Park were still in use by first nations people in the 1880s when boundaryas defined in this surveyors and road builders knocked the homes down to create document, it is discussed the Park Drive perimeter road. The largest settlement in the park here as a it is integral to in the 1880s, was at χʷayχʷəy, which was razed when the road the understanding of the went through. χʷayχʷəy was a place of many ceremonies and history and presence of the gatherings. The big house of that settlement was more than 60 Coastal Salish peoples in metres long and about 20 metres wide and was constructed from the area. large cedar posts and slabs. More than 100 people in 11 families lived there.

The last archaeological survey of the park, completed in 1995 for the Ministry of Highways, affirmed Musqueam oral history, which tells of extensive use and presence throughout the area. The report found four new archaeological sites and close to 100 culturally modified trees. The report also expanded the known boundaries of five of the seven previously known sites in the park. A complete survey of archeological and heritage resources in the park has never been done.

Some of the significant places in Stanley Park named by the Musqueam people are:

χʷayχʷəy- ‘masked dance performance’ (Lumberman’s Arch) The name is from the tradition that an ancestor received the privilege to utilize the ceremonial mask there. sɬχiləx̕ – ‘be standing’ (Siwash Rock) st̕it̕əwəq̓ ʷ - ‘fuller’s earth’ (Second Beach) χaʔχcə - ‘little lake’ (Beaver’s Creek and Lake) ʔəy̓ əlxən - ‘good under foot’ (English Bay)

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 53 Theme 2: Making the Desirable Suburb

Some of the characteristics associated with this theme: • Disruption of indigenous cultural landscapes and land use • Intense use of the land and resources • Major streets and the remaining patterns of the neighbourhood’s earliest spatial organization, pre- emption and subdivision • Evidence of the evolution of local and regional transportation networks • Walkable streets, small lots and back lanes • Parks, mini-parks and traffic calming measures • Features and landscapes associated with early residential development and the evolution of the area’s residential character

Places in the West End significant for their association with these characteristics are:

2z ROBSON VILLAGE

2z 2zz DENMAN VILLAGE

CARDERO STREETSCAPE 2z

DAVIE VILLAGE

54 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver image location significance 2a 1882 survery of DL 185 Street grid unique to the West End featuring large of street grid from Burrard streets and small blocks and lots. This grid distinguishes the West Street West End (DL 185) from the downtown area east of Burrard (DL 541) where the block sizes are larger and spaced such that many east- west West End streets terminate at Burrard.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 2b Beach Drive, Georgia The formalization of Stanley Park by designating it as a park Street, Park Drive and the reserve in 1886 and the ‘beautification of the wilderness’ process Seawall of providing car access to and around the park and activities for visitors. This process included the removal of various groups of people residing in the park, and their homes, including First Na- tions and new immigrants from different countires.

Beach Drive and Georgia Street became the two ways in and out of the vast park, while Park Drive was the scenic route allowing visitors to see the wilderness without getting lost in it.

The seawall is a stone wall that was constructed around the perimeter of Stanley Park to prevent the erosion of the park’s foreshore. Most of the Stanley Park portion of the wall was built between 1914 and 1971, although the park portion was not completed until 1980. Colloquially, the term also denotes the pedestrian, bicycle, and rollerblading pathway on the seawall, one which has been extended far outside the boundaries of Stanley Park and which has become one of the most-used features of the park by both locals and tourists.

Related to themes 1 (Hən̓ q̓ əmin̓ əm̓ Speaking Peoples), 2 (Live- able Suburb), 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon)

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 2c Robson Street (Burrard to The commercial, institutional and residential development con- Denman) centration along these street is evidence to the historic street car Burrard Street (Robson to course which ran on these streets from 1895-98 to the mid 1950s Davie) providing an internal loop within the West End and a transporta- Davie Street (Burrard to tion network connecting the West End to the rest of the city. Denman) Denman Street (Robson to Davie) Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 55 2d Several examples: North- Stone/granite estate wall remnants East Corner of Davie at Nicola (photo) and more between Jervis and Nicola on Davie Street

Lion’s Gate Bridge 1938 A suspension bridge that crosses the first narrows of Burrard Inlet Heritage Register (F) and connects the City of Vancouver, to the North Shore munici- palities of North and West Vancouver and to the north of British National Historic Site of Columbia. The term “Lions Gate” refers to The Lions, a pair of mountain peaks north of Vancouver. Northbound traffic on the bridge heads in their general direction. It is valued as evidence of the evolution of local and region- al transportation networks and as an important connection to the rest of the region. The Lions Gate Bridge has become a landmark of Vancouver. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) Burrard Street Bridge 1930-32 The bridge is a five-lane, Art Deco style, steel truss bridge which Heritage Register connects the West End (and downtown) peninsula to the west side of Vancouver. It is valued as evidence of the evolution of lo- cal and regional transportation networks and as an important connection to the rest of the city. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 2e West End, West of Denman 1974. Traffic Calming Miniparks and Diverters. (Photo of Chilco Street) In 1973, City Council headed by Mayor Art Phillips adopted an idea put forward by the West End Planning Team: barricade the streets and convert asphalt to green space. The next year, West of Denman saw the first traffic calming of its kind in North America. The initial traffic calming system brought traffic volumes down dramatically and has maintained the West End as a highly livable neighbourhood. Valued for improving the walkable, green, human-scaled streets and sidewalks in the residential areas of the West End. 2f West End, East of Den- 1981. Traffic Calming Miniparks and Diverters. man (Photo of Nicola @ Pendrell) The traffic calming system brought traffic volumes down dra- matically and has maintained the West End as a highly livable neighbourhood. In one of the densest communities in Canada, there are roughly ten times as many pedestrians as moving vehicles on the residen- tial streets. The car has become the alternative form of transpor- tation. Valued for improving the walkable, green, human-scaled streets and sidewalks in the residential areas of the West End.

56 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Another characteristic associated with this theme: • Places associated with community services established for the growing population

Places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic are:

image location significance Lord Roberts Elementary at West End local schools were established in the first decades 1100 Bidwell Street. of the suburb’s formation. West School in 1888 (later renamed Dawson), Lord Roberts in 1900, Aberdeen in 1908 and King Heritage Register A George Secondary in 1914. This school is has been functioning continuously since its opening during the formation of the West End neighbourhood.

2g Lord Roberts Annex West End local schools were established in the first decades of at 1150 Nelson Street. the suburb’s formation. West School in 1888 (later renamed Daw- son), Lord Roberts in 1900, Aberdeen in 1908 and King George Secondary in 1914. This expansion of Lord Roberts Elementary opened in 1972.

2h King George Secondary West End local schools were established in the first decades 1755 at Barclay Street of the suburb’s formation. West School in 1888 (later renamed (second location, since Dawson), Lord Roberts in 1900, Aberdeen in 1908 and King 1963). George Secondary in 1914. This school is has been functioning continuously since its opening during the formation of the West End neighbourhood. The original 1913 building at 943 Nelson was demolished in 1984 and was replaced by a new school in the new (and present) location in 1963. 1001 Nicola Street 1907. Fire Hall #6

Heritage Regsiter A (M) Designed by architects Honeyman and Curtis, this brick and stone hall is valued as a service associated with serving the growing population and as the first fire hall in North America to be de- signed for fire trucks and not horses. Arthur J. Bird, the City Archi- tect, was responsible for the building’s southern addition in 1921. Henry Hawthorn Architects rehabilitated the building in 1988. 2z Robson Village The commerical-use stretches of Robson, Davie and Denman Davie Village Streets form separated distinct village-like communities serving Denman Village both local residents, and the city as a whole. Their distinctiveness and their prominent profiles help define the character of the West End as a whole -

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 57 1081 Burrard Street 1912. St. Paul’s Hospital

Heritage Register A The original St. Paul’s Hospital was a 25-bed, 4-storey wood frame building designed and constructed by Mother Joseph of the Sacred Heart. An accomplished carpenter and reputedly the first woman Architect of the Pacific Northwest, Mother Joseph was responsible for more than 30 hospitals, schools and homes for those in need. The land, then a piece of wilderness on Bur- rard Street, had been acquired for the purpose by the Sisters of Providence to serve the fledgling City. The Hospital cost $28,000 and opened in 1894, just eight years after incorporation of the City of Vancouver.

In the Edwardian-era boom of 1912 the original building was demolished to make way for a new reinforced concrete structure finished in the Renaissance Revival style with brick, terra cotta and granite. Now known as the Centre Block of the Burrard Build- ing, the cross-shaped floor plan accommodated 200 patients and cost $400,000. The Architect was German-born Robert F. Tegen. In 1930, the north wing was added followed by the south wing in 1939. Both were designed by architects Gardiner & Mercer. In the 1970s more land was acquired to the south and the ten storey Providence Buildings, designed by Unecon Architecture, were constructed. Phase 1 opened in 1979, Phase 2 in 1988.

St. Paul’s Hospital holds heritage significance as a landmark for health care in Vancouver. Founded by Mother Marie Fredric and the Sisters of Providence at the request of Bishop Paul Durieu, for whom the Hospital is named, it has been in continuous operation since 1894.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 1130 Jervis Street 1905. St. Paul’s Parish Church.

Heritage Register A (M) Local Anglicans moved the original St. Paul’s church building in 1895 from Yaletown to serve the rapidly growing congregation in the West End. Ten years later this building was designed by W.H. Archer in the Gothic Revival style. It is notable for the array of stained-glass windows, made locally by Harold Bloomfield & Sons. The labyrinth painted on the floor in 1997 replicates the stone one laid in the floor of Chartres Cathedral in France. Welcoming to the gay and lesbian community and one of the eight parishes of the Diocese of New Westminster licensed to bless same-sex unions.Valued as a place associated with serving a growing population and that has been in continuous service at practically the same location.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture)

58 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 2i 1155 Thurlow Street 1975. Central Presbyterian Church

A number of congregations of the Presbyterian Church in Canada were started in Vancouver in the 1890’s, including St. Andrew’s and St. John’s. In 1925, these two congregations voted to become part of the new United Church of Canada. Members from both of these congregations who desired to continue in a Presbyterian tradition formed a new congregation, Central, and purchased the Congregational church building on Thurlow Street. In 1975 St. Paul’s Hospital wanted to expand, and purchased the original property from Central Presbyterian; the congregation built a new facility across the street at this current location.

Also home to the Christ Alive Community Church services: a pro- gressive Christian community with a special call to minister among Gay, Lesbian, Bi-sexual, Transgendered, and Queer peoples and their friends. Valued as a place associated with the services serv- ing the growing population during this early period that has been in continuous service at practically the same location.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) 1160 W Georgia Street 1919. Coastal Church, formally known as First Church of Christ, Scientist Heritage Register B (M) (H) (I) The Coastal Church is valued for its contribution to the urban context, for its distinguished American Colonial Revival architec- ture, and as a rare survivor of religious buildings built at the end of World War I. A highly visible landmark, it is one of the few heritage buildings located on the western part of Georgia Street. The two-storey building is a finely-executed example of the Colonial Revival style, uncommon in Vancouver. 969 Burrard Street 1911. First Baptist Church.

Heritage Register A (M) This building is the third home of the First Baptist Church. The (H)(I) cornerstone was laid on April 2, 1910 by John Morton, a Baptist layman and one of the “Three Greenhorns” who originally pre- empted the West End, including the land on which the church now stands. A serious fire gutted the interior in 1931. Restoration was carried out by Charles Bentall, a church member, and his com- pany Dominion Construction. The church is home to the oldest Baptist congregation in Vancouver, established March 16, 1887.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 59 1012 Nelson Street 1933. St. Andrew’s Wesley United Church

Heritage Register A (M) This inspiring Gothic Revival Church, built entirely of materials from , opened on May 26, 1933. The church stands as a testament to the faith of its two founding congrega- tions – Wesley Methodist, formerly located at the southwest corner of Georgia and Burrard and St. Andrew’s Presbyterian, formerly at the northeast corner of Georgia and Richards. The two churches united, along with the Congregational Church, when their fellow congregation across Canada came together in 1925 to form The United Church of Canada. Right Rev. Dr. Gary Paterson is the first openly gay moderator of the United Church of Canada. The church is welcoming to the gay and lesbian community. It also hosts ‘The Word is Out’ discussion group dedicated to GLBT and Faith exploration issues.

Related to themes 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 2j 1161 Broughton Street 1949. Guardian Angels Catholic Church.

The first functioning entity in Guardian Angels Parish was the six- teenth Catholic school in Vancouver, built on property purchased in 1940 from Mrs. Kelly of Kelly-Douglas at the corner of Davie and Broughton Streets. Designed by Gardiner and Thornton, this church building was also built on the Douglas family property, this time the garden of their home on Broughton Street.

The church services a congregation of people from more than 30 countries and has a big Latin American and Philipino component. Mass is in English, with occasional visiting priests saying Mass in the language of a community, whether Tagalog or Portuguese, French or Spanish. The Indonesian community celebrates a Mass in Indonesian once a month at Guardian Angels Parish. First Nations people offer new ways of expressing faith at diocesan celebrations.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) 2k 870 Denman Street The West End Community Centre was opened in ____ and is an incredibly busy cultural hub in the West End. Run by the West End Community Centre Association the centre provides recreational, educational and athletic facilities and equipment for the residents of the West End and Coal Harbour, promotes, encourages, supports and assists recreational, cultural, educa- tional, artistic, charitable, sporting and community endeavors and promotes, fosters and develops community spirit and good citizen- ship.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture)

60 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 2l 870 Denman Street Joe Fortes Library

This branch is actually part of a large joint operation with the West End Community Centre and the King George High School. It serves a diverse mix of young and old users including many new immigrants. The branch holds a large print collection and ESL kits, along with foreign DVDs, CDs and hardcovers in languages from Chinese to Persian with most of the romance tongues represented as well.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) 2099 Beach Avenue 1960. Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation Office Underwood, McKinley, Cameron Architects Heritage Register A

955 Burrard Street 1941. YMCA Building

Heritage Register B (M) (H) Founded in 1886, the YMCA of started out providing services for young men but for more than 100 years now has evolved to include children, teens, women and seniors. The new 92,000-square-foot Robert Lee YMCA completed in 2010 in replaces the original downtown YMCA built in 1941 while retaining a portion of the original heritage-desig- nated structure as a part of the new design. This fully accessible building is designed to be inclusive, breaking down all types of barriers to community—physical, financial or otherwise. Valued as an institution strategically located on an important transportation street in the West End, continuously serving the growing popula- tion in providing boarding, recreation and other communal ameni- ties over the decades. This site is also valued as an example of added density and affordable housing provided through the sensitive introduction of modern towers to heritage conservation projects.

Related to themes 3 (Apartments) and 4 (Diverse Culture) 2m 958 Denman Street 1953. Bank of Montreal

Sharp, Thompson, Berwick & Pratt

2n Most 1970s miniparks West Mini-Park Community Message Boards of Denman Valued for informally connecting community members with eacho- ther, housing opportunities, recreation, culture, services and so- cial life.

Related to theme 5 (Diverse Culture)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 61 Another characteristic associated with this theme: • Places associated with recreation and social life and appreciation of the neighbourhood’s natural amenities

Places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic are:

image location significance 1750 Beach Avenue 1931. English Bay Bathhouse

The deco styled English Bay Bathhouse was constructed to replace the pre-existing aging wooden bathhouse on the beach. It is the home to the famous “Polar Bear Club”, founded in 1917, a group of people who take a New Year’s dip in the Bay’s icy waters. In 1939, an extension of the Bathhouse was converted into Van- couver’s first public aquarium featuring Oscar, the Octopus . This aquarium facility was closed in 1956. In 1986 and again in 2002 the building underwent restoration and renovation. The Parks Board received an Award of Recognition from the city for the 2002 interior restoration of the building.

Related to themes 4 (Diverse Culture), 5 (Regional Icon) 2o Behind West End Com- Tennis courts recall the Vancouver lawn tennis club’s courts built munity Centre and King in 1898 facing Denman Street. King George High School occupies George High School the former club facility, the closure of Bidwell between Barclay and Haro Streets, has allowed the creation of new public courts that recall the historic use in this area. The Community Centre facility fittingly built next to these recreational open spaces, are valued as places associ-ated with recreation and social life and appreciation of the neighbourhood’s natural amenities.

907-35 Denman Street 1938. The Bay Theatre.

Heritage Register C (M) The Bay Theatre was constructed as a movie theatre. Its poured in-place concrete walls and streamlined design features are indicative of the Art Moderne style. It was designated in 1997 by its owner, the Amadon Group, in exchange for a zoning variance, which made the adaptive re-use of this local landmark viable. Hewitt Tan Kwasnicky Architects’ rehabilitation design included the repair and painting of the exterior facades, neon signage and ceramic tile motifs inspired by the original design. The rehabilita- tion was completed for the building’s 60th anniversary in 1998. The theatre building, located on a bustling street where the West End’s social and activity continues to be focused, is valued as a place associated with recreation, creativity, and social life.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture)

62 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver English Bay Beach The place known as English Bay beach, is named ʔəy̓ əlxən by by the Hən̓ q̓ əmin̓ əm̓ -speaking people of this area, meaning ‘good under foot’. It was formalized as a recreational beach in 1893. The name ‘English Bay’ commemorates the meeting of the British Captain Vancouver and Spanish captains Valdes and Galiano, in 1792. In 1898, sand was added and people began building summer cottages on the shore. In order to reach the beach in the 1890’s, one had to follow trails through the bushes. The beach was divided in two by a large rock, men on one side and women on the other. English Bay Beach was home to Vancouver’s first official lifeguard, the legendary Joe Fortes, who taught hundreds of the city’s early residents how to swim, and patrolled the beach from his cabin on its shore. Even in the cooler months, English Bay Beach is a huge attraction for both locals and tourists alike because it boasts some of the most beautiful scenery in Vancou- ver. From the beach, you can see the mountains of West Vancou- ver and the beaches across the Burrard Inlet in Kitsilano. English Bay Beach plays a major role in two annual Vancouver traditions: the Celebration of Light International Fireworks Competition (since 1990), the SHOREfest concert series (since 2009) and the New Year’s Day Vancouver Polar Bear Swim (since 1917).

The English Bay Carnival was an annual event organized by the Ladies’ Auxiliary of the Royal Canadian Legion West End Branch 187, starting in the late 1940s, featuring the Miss English Bay Beauty Contest.

Related to themes 1 (Hәn̓ q̓ әmin̓ әm), 4 (Diverse Culture), and 5 (Regional Icon) Corner of Beach & Bidwell 1900 C. Alexanda Park

Heritage Register This lovely green space, featuring grand old trees from the same period, was originally known as English Bay Park. On July 26, 1911 the park was renamed Alexandra after Queen Alexandra, Britain’s King Edward VII’s consort. Long time volunteer lifeguard Joe Fortes received special dispensation for his sterling com- munity service and was allowed to relocate his beach shack from English Bay to Alexandra Park where he was allowed to live out the rest of his life. Joe Fortes died in 1922.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1755 Beach Avenue in 1914. Haywood Bandstand Alexandra Park Edwardian, two-tiered octagonal design featuring scrolled cedar Heritage Regsiter A (M) roof brackets, restored in 1988. Valued as the last of seven band- stands that were installed in Vancouver parks and a well known landmark and meeting point in the West End.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 63 2q 1050 Beach Avenue 1974. Aquatic Centre

Built to replace the neighbourhood’s Crystal Pool which was located four blocks west at Sunset Beach (1928-1974) it is valued as a place that represents community amenities, recreation and services in a beach setting thus also contributing to the commu- nity’s sense of place.

Also home to the English Bay Swim Club, Vancouver’s gay & lesbian masters swim team since 1982.

Related to themes 2 (Colonial Overlay), 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 955 Burrard Street 1941. YMCA Building

Heritage Register B (M) (H) Founded in 1886, the YMCA of Greater Vancouver started out providing services for young men but for more than100 years now has evolved to include children, teens, women and seniors. The new 92,000-square-foot Robert Lee YMCA completed in 2010 in downtown Vancouver replaces the original downtown YMCA built in 1941 while retaining a portion of the original heritage-desig- nated structure as a part of the new design. This fully accessible building is designed to be inclusive, breaking down all types of barriers to community—physical, financial or otherwise.

Valued as an institution stratigically located on an important trans- portation street in the West End, continously serving the grow- ing population in providing boarding, recreation and other communal amenities over the decades. This site is also valued as an example of added density and affordable housing provided through the sensitive introduction of modern towers to heritage conservation projects.

Related to themes 2 (Liveable Suburb), 3 (Apartments) and 4 (Diverse Culture)

64 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 2r The City block between Nelson Park Comox to Nelson, Thurlow to Bute Until the 1970s, the West End had no public green spaces within the residential areas apart from Alexandra Park at English Bay. As the population density of the area increased, it became clear to the Parks Board that park spaces were needed. The City began buying properties in the 1950s, around what has now come to be called Mole Hill – then known as “Block 23, District lot 185. The green space development started in earnest one block north, and over the next 2 decades the houses were razed in groups to cre- ate present day Nelson Park.

In 2007, the park was transformed through consultation with the community, into a place that attracts casual and intentional users with gardens, play areas, new entryways, an elegant pathway system, a seating plaza, metal arbours, a water feature and a dog area. Nelson Park is home to the weekly West End farmers market from June to October.

Related to Diverse Culture (4) and 5 (Regional Icon) 2s The City block betweenBar- 1985. Barclay Heritage Square Park clay to Haro, Broughton to Nicola Before its development, this area was known as Park Site 19 for decades. The Park Board was intent on incrementally purchasing lots on this West End block in order to eventually demolish the buildings to make way for parkland. Despite the nearby location of Stanley Park, a greenspace serving the region, Vancouver’s West End with its high population density, was deficient in neighbour- hood parks. By the time the Park Board had assembled the block, heritage building advocates approached the Board and asked them to consider reprieving buildings with architectural merit. The Board concurred and many perimeter homes were saved (now owned and rented/leased through the City) with several restored including Barclay Manor (a seniors centre, which opened in 1990), the Weeks House (now the Diamond Centre for Living) and the Roedde House Museum – a fine example of Queen Anne Revival architecture.

Related to Diverse Culture (4) and 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 65 More characteristics associated with this theme: • Diverse buildings and structures representing all aspects and levels of society • Examples of affordable housing in a variety of forms • Places illustrating the connection between high density residential development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives Places in the West End significant for their association with these characteristics are:

image location significance 2y 1112 Davie Street c 1890. One of the West End’s first homes, designed as an ‘apartment style’ duplex, this building is valued as one of the last surviving residential buildings on Davie Street. Although it is currently cov- ered in stucco and vinyl siding, and is partially hidden behind retail spaces, the building retains its historic location, form and many of its original features including unique wood bay windows and divided-light front windows. Comox Street: 1170, 64, 1888 to c WWI. Mole Hill Community Housing Society 60, 54, 46, 40, 36, 22, 20, An entire city block of historic homes to the north of today’s Mole 14 and 10. Hill was demolished to create Nelson Park, and although this was the plan for Mole Hill as well, residents protested the demoli- Thurlow Street: 1119, 13 tion and in the 1990s, the importance of an intact city block of and 07 single-family historic homes was recognized. Mole Hill Community Housing Society was founded in 1999 and conversion of the sur- Pendrell Street: 1173, 67, viving homes into 170 rental units began the same year. Architects 59, 57, 47, 39, 37, 29, 25 Hotson Bakker and Sean Mcewen worked at restoring the heritage and 03 features both inside and out, while performing necessary code upgrades and introducing the latest sustainable development tech- Bute Street: 1122, 1110 niques. All the exteriors of the homes were painted in the colours from their original date of construction.The greenways, gardens Heritage Register and laneway are the products of extensive community consultation and planning. The laneway was modeled after the Dutch concept of “Woonerf”: a street which gives precedence to pedestrians and landscaping. The Society’s mission is to provide and advocate for secure, affordable housing for low and middle income singles, seniors and families within environmentally sensitive, intact heritage housing and streetscapes. Ten units are dedicated to the wait list of the MacLaren Housing Society, which provides homes for persons living with AIDS. Mole Hill is valued as one of the only intact streetscapes and architectural groupings from the turn of the century, as an example of added density provided through the sen- sitive conversion of heritage buildings into apartments, a provider of social housing and of community green space and gardens. It is also a Vancouver and West End landmark representing colonial heritage architecture and attracts local and international tourists. Within the Mole Hill buildings are Dr. Peter’s AIDS Foundation at 1110 Comox, The Heart Transplant Home Society at 1113 Thurlow Street and the Watson House (supportive housing for people with Mental Illness) at 1125 Pendrell Street. Mole Hill is also valued for providing inclusive, crucial amenities to meet the changing needs of a diverse community. Related to themes 3 (apartments), 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon)

66 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1117 Pendrell Street Leslie Lane House

Heritage House B (M) One of Vancouver’s last remaining lane houses was rescued by the Vancouver Heritage Foundation and moved in early July, 2002, to a new site at 1117 Pendrell Street in Mole Hill. The home was restored and sold as a private residence, not as part of the Mole Hill Housing Society.

1459 Barclay Street 1895, George Weeks House.

Heritage Register B (M) Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture from the end of the 19th century. Its asymmetrical design includes unusual features such as a central dormer with a gambrel roof and a two-sided veranda with shingle-clad columns. Renova- tions designed by the Iredale Partnership in 1990 have restored the exterior to its original condition. Home to Diamond Centre for Living since 1995 out of which the Vancouver Friends for Life Society operates. VFFL began delivering massage and hot meals to people with HIV/AIDS during the epidemic in the 1990’s. Valued for providing inclusive, crucial amenities to meet the changing needs of a diverse community.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1447 Barclay Street 1890, Barclay Manor.

Heritage Register A (M) This Queen Anne style house has changed considerably since its construction in 1890 by Lucy and Charles Tetley. It began as a small “L” shaped structure which was moved 15 feet to its current location. Various additions occurred, and in 1909 architect R.J. MacDonald designed a conversion of the house into a private hos- pital. From 1919 to 1926 it was known as Rosary Hall, a residence for Catholic working girls, and in 1926 it became a boarding house. The Iredale partnership designed the renovation of the build- ing into a seniors community centre in 1990. Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the end of the 19th century. Valued for providing amenities to meet the chang- ing needs of a diverse community, including over time: hospital services, boarding services and a senior centre.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 995 Bute Street Rand House, 1896.

Heritage Register B(M) (H) A grand, turreted upper-class homes, located amongst a variety of historic walk-up apartment blocks, high-rise apartments, and an elementary school.It is a prominent architectural example of the area’s grand houses from the first decade of the formation of the West End. This home was recently converted into multiple units as part of a Heritage Revitalization Agreement.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 67 720 Jervis Street 1900. Abbott House

Heritage Register A (M) (H) The first superintendent of The Pacific Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway, Harry B. Abbott, was a prominent figure in the development of Vancouver. The house was built in the heart of the West End’s ‘Blueblood Alley’, Vancouver’s first prestigious residen- tial neighbourhood. The house’s restoration and the re-orientation of a period garden were completed in 1997 as part of the adjacent large-scale development. The Abbott House is valued as the last reminant of a high-end single-family neighbourhood and an ex- ample of added density provided through the sensitive introduction of modern townhouses to a heritage conservation projects.

879, 885, 891 Broughton 1902-03 Street This trio of wooden houses features unusual side bay windows Heritage Register B (M) and expansive porches. Valued for providing a glimpse of an early Vancouver residential streetscape. Increased development pressures have made this one of the last remaining blocks of older houses. The Vancouver Park Board has incorporated them into a “live-in heritage park” known as Barclay Heritage Square. In 1985, architect Allan Diamond designed renovations converting each of the buildings into three housing units. Homes such as these are also valued for providing alternative affordable housing options.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1019-1049 Pacific Street 1901-1905. Pacific Heights Coop

Heritage Regsiter B These Edwardian homes were built on the edge of Vancouver during its second decade of development. Thehouses were saved from demolition in 1983-85 with the completion of rear yard infill apartments. The Eight heritage-designated homes were rehabili- tated and divided into two units each. A courtyard area and seven- storey apartment building are situated behind the homes making up a total of 91 co-op units. The co-op provides ‘affordable housing for a diverse, caring community’. The houses have been painted with authentic colours under the Vancouver Heritage Foundation’s “True Colours” program. Homes such as these are also valued for providing alternative affordable housing options.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1416, 26, 36 Haro Street This row of Edwardian Houses is valued as a reminder of the West End’s original single-family character. The historic features of each Heritage Register B (M) building were maintained when Allan Diamond Architect super- vised the conversion of each house into three apartment units in 1985 as part of the Barclay Heritage Square project. Homes such as these are also valued for providing alternative affordable hous- ing options.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon)

68 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 993 Broughton Street 1910.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Craftsman style became popular.

1517 Comox Street 1905.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

951 Nicola Street 1907.

Heritage Register B A semi industrial space amongst residences, this was originally used as a grocery store and warehouse.

955-957 Nicola Street 1903.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular. Also, valued for ground floor store conversions which are typical of many older homes in densely populated neighbourhoods. These stores have been in operation for decades and continue to function as local shops, meeting places, and are notable landmarks in the neighbourhood.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 961 Nicola Street 1903.

Heritage Register C Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 69 989 Bute Street 1899.

Heritage Register B(M) Valued as an example of typical middle-class West End residential architecture at the end of the 19th century. Used as a Bed and Breakfast since 1986, this place is also valued as a heritage site providing amenities to tourists.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

975 Bute Street 1901.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

1114 Barclay Street 1897

Heritage Register A (M) Named the ‘O Canada’ Bed and Breakfast because it is known as the place where one of the first English versions of Canada’s National Anthem was penned in 1908. A hundred years later in 1997, ‘O Canada’ House won the prestigious “City of Vancouver Heritage Award of Honour” for outstanding refurbishment and interior decoration in the Victorian Queen Anne Style. Valued as an example of typical middle-class West End residential architecture at the end of the 19th century.

Valued as a heritage site provide amenities to tourists.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 1523 Comox Street 1905.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

1550 Comox Street 1907.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

70 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1558 Comox Street 1902.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

1560 Comox Street 1910.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

1963 Comox Street 1910. Hirshfield House

Heritage Register A (M) As one of the few remaining houses in the west of Denman, this house is a detailed and unique example of early 20th century domestic architecture. The low pitched roof supported by large brackets, leaded glass windows, and stone porch are character- istic of the Craftsman style. Architects Gamble & Knapp designed this home in 1910 for a real estate broker and local businessman Alfred C. Hirshfield. 2zz Cardero Streetscape A pedestrian-friendly streetscape linking Coal Harbour at its north end to English Bay at its south end, and featuring in its middle sec- tion a considerable grouping of original houses along with low-rise apartments.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 71 1523 Davie Street 1900. Gabriola Mansion

Heritage Register A (M) This prominent West End mansion, viewed by some as the most lavish private home ever constructed in B.C., is known as ‘The Gabriola’. Located on the corner of Davie and Nicola Streets, The Gabriola was built in 1900 for Benjamin Tingley Rogers, a sugar refiner from New York City. Rogers came to Vancouver at age 24 and, in 1892, opened the B.C Sugar Refinery. He quickly became one of Vancouver’s most important busi- nessmen, known by all as the ‘Sugar King’. The mansion for the Rogers family was designed by Samuel Maclure, an important residential architect already well-known at the time, and was built from sandstone brought from Gabriola Island - hence its original name. The mansion was sold in 1918 after Benjamin died and his widow moved into The Shannon, a new mansion in Shaughnessy, the newly fashionable area for the rich. The Gabriola was then converted into apartments with over 50 suites, and later into a series of restaurants.

Gabriola is valued as a neighbourhood landmark and tourist attraction and an example of added density provided through the sensitive introduction of modern townhouses to heritage conserva- tion projects.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

1122, 1110, 1116 Bute Built in 1908 by Percy Nevil Smith, who was the builder of three Street (photo 1122 Bute) houses with similar detailing: 1122, 1116, and 1110 Bute Street. This is the only house of the three that was sold after completion; Heritage Register B the other two were rental properties for decades. The maple tree in front of the home, on the boulevard, is one of the original broad- leafed maple trees native to the area. Most of the other maples were cut down due to concerns over encroachments into sewers and roads. 1122 and 1110 Bute Street are part of the Mole Hill Community Housing Society. Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon) 1415 Barclay Street 1983, Roedde House.

Heritage Register A (M) This Queen Anne style home of Vancouver’s first bookbinder was built by Gustav and Matilda Roedde in 1893. Efforts to restore the house and establish a unique heritage park surrounding it were led by the Community Arts Council in co-operation with the City of Vancouver Park Board. Interior restoration was undertaken by the Roedde House Preservation Society and the house was opened as Vancouver’s first house museum by major Gordon Campbell on May 16, 1990. Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the end of the 19th century and as a heritage site provide amenities to locals and tourists. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

72 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1351 Barclay Street 1904.

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of typical middle-class West End residential architecture at the end of the 19th century. Today, is an award winning Bed and Breakfast known as Barclay House B & B since 2006. This place is also valued as a heritage site provide amenities to tourists.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

1090 Nicola Street 1905. Darling House This house is noted for its craftsman-style architectural details Heritage Register B and materials, such as cedar shingle siding. It was occupied by members of the Darling family until 2003 and while an addition was added to the north-east corner of the house in 1947, much of the original exterior and interior of the building remain intact. Currently part of a development site that includes eight new townhouse units and five dwelling units in the existing heritage house. Valued as an example of added density provided through the sensitive intro- duction of modern townhouses to heritage conservation projects. 904-906 Cardero Street 1902.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of middle-class West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Crafts- man style became as important trend. The home sits on two lots and was converted into a legal duplex in 1974.

1448 Comox Street 1906.

Heritage Register C Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style became popular.

985-987 Cardero Street 1909.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of middle-class West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Crafts- man style became an important trend.

1074 Cardero Street 1902.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style was as important trend.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 73 1076-78 Cardero Street 1902. Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at Heritage Register B the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style was as important trend. Also, valued for its ground floor store, which is a typical use at many corners in the densely populated neighbour- hood. The store continues to be a local shop, meeting place and landmark. Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) 1150 Haro Street 1908.

Heritage Register B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Victorian style was still popular.

1605 Nelson Street 1909.

Heritage Regsiter B Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Craftsman style was becoming an important trend.

1609 Nelson Street 1909.

Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at Heritage Regsiter B the beginning of the 19th century when the Craftsman style was becoming an important trend.

1185 Haro Street 1905.

Heritage Register C Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at the beginning of the 19th century when the Craftsman style was becoming an important trend.

1930 Haro Street 190? Valued as a good example of West End residential architecture at Heritage Register B the beginning of the 19th century when the Edwardian style was becoming an important trend. This site was developed to include infill housing in the back of the house, and the house was divided into smaller strata units, making a total of seven homes on the lot. 1930 Haro Street maintains its single family look from the street. Valued as illustrating the connection between high density residen- tial development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives. Related to theme 3 (apartments)

74 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1243-45-47 Harwood Street 1899 or 1905. Eastwood Plaza, known as the Legg Residence This large, distinguished private residence and garden is located Heritage Register B in a high-density area on Harwood Street. A rehabilitation and conversion project divided the grand home into self-contained apartments. It sits well back on the property close to the back lane on a rise, affording a view of English Bay. The property maintains its generous front garden, which features the largest known Tulip tree in the city. The grounds, surrounded by original granite foun- dations walls and piers, remain a rare surviving garden in the West End from the early part of the twentieth century. Valued for illustrating the connection between high density residential development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives. Related to theme 3 (apartments) 1550 Harwood Street 1920-21. Robert Mills Blair House Architects Twizell Birds and Twizell were hired to design this mod- Heritage Register B est home on a vacant lot in the early 1920s. Lieutenant-Colonel R. M. Blair, V.D. of the Seaforth Highlanders, was winner of the King’s Prize and Grand Aggregate at Bisley, England in 1929 and became known as ‘Bull’s-Eye Blair’.

Another characteristic associated with this theme: • Ornamental vegetation in building setbacks, gardens and street trees

Places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic are:

image location significance at Alexandera Park (Bidwell Tree. Northern Red Oak and Beach)

Heritage Regsiter

1201 Barclay Street Tree. Cappadocian Maple

Heritage Regsiter

2020 Comox Street Tree. Caucasian Wing – Nut

Heritage Regsiter

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 75 English Bay Tree. English Elm

Heritage Regsiter

1434 Beach Avenue (Eng- Tree. Purple Beech lish Bay)

Heritage Regsiter

1520 Beach Avenue Tree. London Plane

Heritage Regsiter

2t 1095 Jervis Street Tree. Western Red Cedar 1855 Nelson Street

2u 1010 Guilford Street Tree. Catalpa 1000 block of Nicola Street

2v Davie Street from Jervis to Trees. Sargent and Amanogawa Cherry Yaletown

2w 1905 Haro Street Tree. Nootka Cypress Identified in in BC 1791 by Menzies on Nootka traditional territory.

76 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 2x Examples: Ample green space provided by in building setbacks, gar- 1400 Block of Nelson dens and street trees. Street (photo), Western Blocks of Comox, Nelson @ Cardero and more

Theme 3: Apartment and Tower Living

Characteristic associated with this theme: • Examples of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights • Continued presence of single family houses • Landscapes associated with apartment buildings

Places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic are:

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 77 image location significance 1210 Jervis Street 1910. Holly Lodge

Heritage Register A Designed by architectural team Wright, Rushforth and Cahill of San Fransisco. The Holly Lodge was built at the intersection of Davie and Jervis streets, and would have had an impressive view of English Bay and First Beach. It was the tallest building in the West End for decades, standing at six storeys when most apartment buildings stood at three. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

784 Thurlow Street 1907-08. Manhattan Apartment House

Heritage Regsiter B This building was one of the first significant three story apartments built in the West end of Vancouver. It was saved from a demolition by residents in 1979, after which the Manhattan Housing Co-op was formed. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Valued as a form of affordable housing.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb) 1209 Thurlow Street 1909. Capitola

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

884 Bute Street 1909. The Beaconsfield

Heritage Regsiter A One of the first apartment blocks in the West End. Noteable features include two huge bays filled with wooden balconies span- ning all levels. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1209 Jervis Street 1910. Blenheim Court

Heritage Regsiter B An early apartment building with bay windows on upper levels. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

78 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1041 Comox Street 1911. Bonaventure

Heritage Register C An Edwardian style four-storey apartment building, strategically close to St. Paul’s Hospital and the street car on Burrard Street. This building was purchased by BC Housing in the 1990s and was converted in 1999 into thirty housing units for people who are HIV positive or have AIDS, and is managed by the Wings Housing Society. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Valued for provid- ing supportive and affordable housing for people with significant housing needs, and for meeting the changing needs of a diverse community.

Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb) and 4 (Diverse Culture) 859 Thurlow Street 1911. Victoria Court Apartments

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1058 Nelson Street 1911. Caroline Court

Heritage Regsiter B (M) Architect J P Matheson’s seven-storey design for James Pattullo by Dominion Construction was built for $150,000. It was construct- ed as, and remains, a rental building.

Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Valued as an example of affordable rental housing.

Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb)

1460 Nelson Street 1910. The Clifton

Heritage Register C Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Also valued for landscapes associated with the apartment building.

1014-1026 Nicola Street 1910. Nicola Apartments

Heritage Register B A rare tin sheet cladding still survives on this early apartment building. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Valued as an example of affordable rental housing.

Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 79 1419 Pendrell Street 1910. Pendrell Mansions

Heritage Register C Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. This three-storey early apartment building was also known for being a regular location in the Vancouver filmed television series the X-files. This was the location for Agent Scully’s fictional apartment. Valued as a place associated with creative projects and artistic endeavours.

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) 1243 Thurlow Street 1911. Hampton Court Apartments

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1386 Nicola Street 1912-13. Kensington Place also 1491 Beach With its Spanish and Italian influence, this building is a fine Heritage Regsiter A (M) example of a Baroque Renaissance Revival building. Decorative elements include precast concrete ornamentation around the windows and entrances, recessed balconies framed with columns, and elaborate consoles which support the roof cornice. Construct- ed with an unusual combination of concrete and a massive timber frame. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1160 Nicola Street 1920. Beaufort Mansions

Heritage Register B This Tudor-style apartment building has incredibly spacious ‘man- sion’ units which were intended to house doctors, lawyers and wealthy executives; an apartment so they could live in luxury and be within close proximity to downtown Vancouver. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings.

80 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1311 Beach Avenue 1927. Tudor Manor

Heritage Regsiter A (M) (L) Prominently located near the beach, Tudor Manor is a Tudor Revival style, three-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Its half-timber decoration, turrets, and massing are characteristic of Tudor Revival architecture. In 1987, a 23-storey residential tower designed by Paul Merrick Architects, was constructed behind the refurbished facade of the original building. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. This site is also valued as an illustration of the connection between high density residential development and her- itage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb) 1306 Bidwell Street 1926. English Bay Mansions

Heritage Register B Prominently located near the beach, English Bay Mansions is a Georgian Revival style, four-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

855 Thurlow Street 1926. Cameron House Apartments

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1240 Thurlow Street 1926

Heritage Register C Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

775-789 Burrard Street 1928. The Irwinton

Heritage Register B The Irwinton is a Georgian Revival style, six-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form, and as a place associated with services adapting to the growing population, being situated on one of the West End’s main transportation streets and on the historic Robson Street and Burrard Street streetcar lines. The street level was converted into retail space (which exists today) when Robson and Burrard Streets commercialized in the 1950s. Also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

Realted to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 81 925 Bute Street 1927. The Plaza

Heritage Register B A Revival style, three-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1080 Gilford Street 1928

Heritage Register C A Revival style, three-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

962 Jervis Street 1928. Winchester Apartments

Heritage Register B A Revival style, four-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1565 Harwood Street 1930.

Heritage Register B A Revival style, four-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1436 Pendrell Street 1931. Seafield Apartments

Heritage Register B This three-storey, fourteen-unit, 1930s apartment building de- signed by W.M. Dodd & Co. Architects, is valued as a representa- tive of dozens of other long-term rental building in the West End. In 2008, the building was involved in a legal battle between the owner and tenants, some who had been in the building since the 1960s, over rent increases and eviction notices. The legal battle, which ended in favour of the tenants, increased awareness of the issue of affordability and the importance of rental stability and tenant rights.

Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb) and 4 (Diverse Culture)

975 Chilco Street 1931. Park Lane Apartments

Heritage Register B A Revival style, four-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

82 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 1111 Jervis Street 1928. The Malborough

Heritage Register C A Revival style, four-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of late 1920s and 1930s architectural trends and form. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1235 Nelson Street 1931. Queen Anne Garden Apartments

Heritage Register B (M) Designed by architect Ross A. Lort , this apartment building was constructed in 1930-31 for Hugh A. Warner, and is a good example of Moderne design. The building features decorative cast panels above and below the windows and an elaborate floral motif over the main entry. Low rise apartment buildings, similar to this one, were typical of apartments constructed after the Edward- ian building boom, which replaced many large homes built during the first decade of the 20th century. The aluminum windows were replaced in 1993 with replica wooden sash units complete with leaded glass details that recall the original design. In 1994, the Jetson Building tower was added to this site, see theme 3. This site is valued as an illustration of the connection between high density residential development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives. It is also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, and valued for being a good ex- ample of the apartment landscaping in the traditional single-family residential areas.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb) 905 Chilco Street 1931. Chatelaine Apartments

Heritage Register B Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

970-990 Gilford Street 1940. Esher Court

Heritage Register B Valued as a rare example of a Moderne style, three-storey apartment building in the West End, and as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1851 Haro Street 1941. The Arlington

Heritage Register C A Tudor Revival style, three-storey apartment building valued as a typical example of revival architectural trends and form. Also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 83 3a 1565 Burnaby Street 1947. Seacrest Apartments

Designed by Ross Lort Architect, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

1949 Beach Avenue 1949. Beach Town House Apartments

Heritage Regsiter B Designed by architect William K. Noppe in 1940, these are valued as the first truly Modernist apartments in the West End and as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights. Located a block from Stanley Park with beautiful views of English Bay, the building attracted relatively wealthy buyers. The apartments were designed with convenience in mind and featured all the latest in appliances. Promotional material at the time noted “the cheery, step-saving kitchen” and the “planned linen and broom closets and cupboards”. Also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings.

1101 Nicola Street 1928. Queen Charlotte Apartments

Heritage Regsiter B (M) Built by Dominion Construction, this building is a good example of the Spanish Colonial Revival style and of the variety of 1920s and 30s walk-up apartment buildings constructed in the neighbour- hood. The building has an elaborate two storey main entry, and is a well-known landmark in the West End. Mission-shaped roof parapets, tile roofs cantilevered from the wall surface, recessed balconies and multi-paneled wood-frame windows contribute to the building’s heritage value. Noteworthy interior features include decorative tilework; an original bird-cage elevator; metal light fittings; and wooden mouldings, brackets, bannisters, doors and floors. The building became a strata corporation in 1981 and consists of 25 units. Also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings. 3b 1890 Haro Street 1954. El Navarro Apartments.

Semmens and Simpson Architects. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

84 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 3c All over the West End In the 1940s and 1950s many small builders and developers (Photo 1090 Jervis Street, bought double lots—typically two 33-footers—and put up wood- 1953) framed 10-suite walk-ups. These tended to be very modest buildings which have provided affordable accommodation over the decades. The “10-suiter” was easy to build: four suites each on the upper two floors with a central corridor, staircases at both ends, two “basement” suites facing the front a half floor below grade, with the boiler, laundry, and storage lockers occupying two suites’ worth of space at the back. Also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3d 1990 Barclay Street 1955. Skylark Apartments

Designed by Semmens and Simpson Architects, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3e 2005 Pendrell St 1955-6. Del Wood Apartments

The Modernist architectural firm Semmens Simpson was com- missioned to design two apartment blocks at the intersection of Pendrell and Chilco Streets. The result was the Del-Wood and the Parkwood, considered to be the finest of the apartments designed by the firm. The following year, the City would ease building height restrictions in the West End and low rise buildings like these ceased to be built. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3f 1885 Barclay Street Glenmore Apartments

Designed by Semmens and Simpson Architects, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3g 1975 Pendrell Street 1955-6. Parkwood Apartments

The Modernist architectural firm Semmens Simpson was com- missioned to design two apartment blocks at the intersection of Pendrell and Chilco Streets. The result was the Del-Wood and the Parkwood, considered to be the finest of the apartments designed by the firm. The following year, the City would ease building height restrictions in the West End and low rise buildings like these ceased to be built. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 85 3h 1080 Barclay Street 1955. The Capri

European and Mediterranean in more than its name, the build- ing’s clean design shows the influnce of Le Corbusier and the European avant-garde movement of the 1920s. Horizontal strip windows, cut away at the corners, the glazed stairway and the supporting pilotis are all elements of this style. Also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3i 1990 Haro Street 1954. Brentwood Apartments

Designed by Semmens and Simpson Architects, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3j 2090 Comox Street 1956. Parkside Apartments

Designed by Semmens and Simpson Architects, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses.

3k 1835 Morton Street 1956-8, penthouse 1961. Ocean Towers 1957, Chow Nelson & Associates architects. A classic International Style apartment blocks in the West End, this building still commands stunning views of English Bay and the sunsets. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. Also valued as a place that contributes to or provide views of the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 3l 1255 Bidwell Street 1958-62. Imperial Apartments

Designed by Peter Kaffka Architect, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. It is also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings, as well a place which contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End.

Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

86 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 3m 860 Jervis Street 1958. Westview Towers

An apartment built in the International Style, it was designed by Chow Nelson & Reinecke Architects. It is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single fam- ily houses. Also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings.

3n 1600 Block Beach Avenue 1964-65. 1968 Beach Towers Designed by CBK Van Norman Architect, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. It is also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings, and as a place which contrib- utes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

3o 2095 Beach Avenue 1960. Beach Park Apartments With nine floors, and 28 suites, this building became one of the first West End Co-ops. It is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, as well as a form of affordable housing and for land- scapes associated with apartment buildings.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb) 3p 2055 Pendrell Street 1965. Panorama Place Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses. It is also valued for land- scapes associated with apartment buildings, as well as a place which contributes to the iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

3q 1115 Nelson Street 1968. Nicholson Tower Designed by Erickson and Massey Architects, this seniors hous- ing government project used raw, rough concrete is used in what may be termed the Brutalist style. It is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, and as a form of affordable housing for seniors. It is also valued for landscapes associated with apartment buildings, and as a place which contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to themes 2 (Desirable Suburb), 4 (Diverse Culture) and 5 (Regional Icon)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 87 3r 2050 Nelson Street 1972. The Silhouette A 22-story apartment building with views overlooking Lost Lagoon, Stanley Park and English Bay, this building is one of several West End apartment buildings which borrowed the elongated hexago- nal shape popularized by the BC Hydro Building. Valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, for landscapes associated with apartment buildings and as a place which contributes to or provide views of the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 3s 1230 and 1260 Nelson 1970. Street Designed by Erickson and Massey Architects, the building is valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, for landscapes associated with apartment buildings and as a place which contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 3t 1861 Beach Avenue 1986. Sylvia Tower Designed by Henriquez & Partners Architect, this building and site are valued as an illustration of the connection between high density residential development and heritage buildings created through heritage conservation initiatives. It is also valued for land- scapes associated with apartment buildings and as a place that contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 3u 1277 Nelson Street 1994. The Jetson Building Designed by Henriquez & Partners Architects, the building added density was allowed on this site in return for the rehabilitation of a saveable section of the 1931 Queen Anne Garden Apartments. This site is valued as an illustration of the connection between high-density residential development and heritage buildings creat- ed through heritage conservation initiatives. It is also valued as an example of a mix of apartment types, styles and heights amongst single family houses, for landscapes associated with apartment buildings and as a place that contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon) 3v 1919 Beach Avenue 1991. Eugenia Place One of three Richard Henriquez’s distinct three West End condo- miniums, Eugenia Place has 17 suites over 18 levels with an oak tree rooted above the top floor penthouse creating a highly visible profile. The tree at the peak of the building stands at the height of the old growth forest, which once stood in downtown Vancouver, underscoring a unique sense of place. It is also valued for land- scapes associated with apartment buildings and as a place that contributes to the identifiable iconic presence of the West End. Related to theme 5 (Regional Icon)

88 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver Theme 4: Diverse Culture

Characteristic associated with this theme:

• Places, past and present, associated with indigenous people and their ongoing representation in the West End • Institutions and open spaces that support the diverse community • Places and features of creativity, artistic endeavours, parades and festivals • Places that represent the multi-cultural nature of the West End • Features that contribute to the community’s sense of place

Places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic are:

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 89 image location significance Alexandra Park 1927. Joe Fortes water fountain

Heritage Register Joseph Seraphim Fortes (1863 -1922) was a prominent figure in the early . A black man fromTrinidad he arrived in Burrard Inlet in 1885. Making his home at English Bay, he lived in a tent on the beach during the milder months of the year. Joe Fortes devoted all of his free time to teaching children to swim and to patrolling the beach. The self-appointed unpaid guard continued to support himself by working odd jobs until, in 1900, the City appointed him its first official lifeguard. His contempo- raries referred to him respectfully as “Old Black Joe” or “English Bay Joe”. He has been officially credited with saving 29 lives, yet it is believed that the real number is considerably higher. When Joe Fortes died on February 4, 1922, Vancouver held a record- breaking funeral procession for him. In June 1927 the citizens of Vancouver dedicated a monument to Joe Fortes. The fountain in Alexandra Park by sculptor Charles Marega (the sculptor of the Lion’s Gate Bridge lions) bears the inscription: LITTLE CHILDREN LOVED HIM. It has been restored twice, in the late 80s and late 90s. On May 20, 1976, the Joe Fortes Branch of the Vancouver Public Library was dedicated to his name and in 1985, one hundred years after he arrived in Canada, the Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House restaurant opened. In 1986, during Vancouver’s centennial year, the Vancouver Historical Society named Joseph Seraphim Fortes “Citizen of the Century.”

This site is valued for representing the multi-cultural history of the West End from its early years and the celebration of multi-ethnic and multi-generational social interaction which has always been part of the West End story.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb)

4a Beach Avenue Beach Avenue is an important route for community processional celebrations including the annual Gay Pride, various runs and marathons such as the BMO Vancouver Marathon, World Naked Bike Ride, Chariot Parade, Festival of India and more.

Related to theme 1 (Hən̓ q̓ əmin̓ əm̓ Speaking Peoples), 2 (Desir- able Suburb) and 5 (Regional Icon)

90 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 4b Davie Street from Burrard 1999. Davie Village to Jervis (roughly) The Davie Street Business Improvement Association coined the name “Davie Village” in 1999 and chose the rainbow as its banner. Many businesses and residents along Davie Street and in the West End hang rainbow flags as a symbol of gay pride and inclusiveness, and many bus stop benches and garbage cans along Davie Street are painted bright pink. Along Davie Street are a variety of shops, restaurants, services, and hotels catering to a diverse crowd of local and visiting customers. Davie Vil- lage is also home to the offices of Xtra! West, a biweekly LGBT newspaper, Qmunity (see below), the Positive Women’s Network and the Vancouver Pride Society, which organizes the annual Pride Parade and Festival. Davie Village is valued for providing a space for community amenities, shopping, street and night life, recreation and services. It is also a place of creativity, artis- tic endeavours, parades and festivals, and has been the centre of several community protests over the decades (including the Muckamuck First Nations strike in the 1970s, Gay rights, Tower opposition etc...). It is also a place which attracts tourists. Davie Village contributes to the community’s sense of place.

Related to all other themes.

4c 1019 Broughton Street 1942. Gordon Neighbourhood House

Gordon Neighbourhood House is a volunteer-led, multi-service, non-profit, non-sectarian, non-government, and apolitical, com- munity-based organization with the mission of making the West End a better place to live. Programs are for all ages in many languages, adapting to the needs of the community including new immigrants, women, First Nations people and parents.

• Gordon House’s Statement of Diversity: • The West End is a mosaic. • We are children, youth adults and seniors of all races, all religions, all cultures, all abilities and all economic levels • We speak many languages • We are men and women of all sexual orientations • We value diversity • We endeavor to reflect the diversity of our Neighbourhoods in our membership, our Boards of Management, our volun- teers and our staff • We respect all our neighbours • We expect that all who come to our Houses, all those who provide or receive our services, will extend the same respect to all those they meet here • Therefore, we will act to promote the inclusion of all in our Association and in our community.

Related to themes 1 (Hən̓ q̓ əmin̓ əm̓ Speaking Peoples) and 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 91 4d 1170 Bute Street 1979. Qmunity.

QMUNITY is BC’s leading queer resource centre formally known as The Centre (1979-2009). Located in the heart of Davie Village it is a hub for the lesbian, gay, trans*, bi and queer community. Qmunity originated as a grassroots collective, became a gay centre in 1979, then a gay and lesbian centre in the ’80s, while continually expanding to encompass other queer groups. At the centre a variety of support programs for mental, physical and social health are offered.

Related to theme 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Theme 5: Regional Icon

Characteristic associated with this theme: • Places which contribute to or provide views of the identifiable iconic presence of the West End • An indigenous place built upon a spirit of welcome and resource sharing • Places, events and services which provide amenities to tourists • A mix of buildings and landscapes considered to have heritage value such as Barclay Heritage Square, Mole Hill and many more modest heritage features • Places and events which attract tourists

There are many places in the West End significant for their association with this characteristic, including groupings of buildings, streetscapes and streets. Many of them have been described in detail in previous themes but are listed additonally below:

92 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver image location significance 5a Stanley Park see theme 1 (Hən̓q̓əmin̓əm̓ Speaking Peoples)

5b English Bay see theme 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Heritage building groupings see themes 2 (Desirable Suburb) and 3 (apartments and towers)

5c Major Streets: Davie, Den- see theme 2 (Desirable Suburb) man, Robson, Burrard and Georgia

5d Morton Park Located in a central meeting place (the intersection of Davie Street and Denman Street and Beach Avenue) and valued as a place which attracts locals and tourists to interact with public art pieces on the back drop of West End scenery and buildings. Places and features of creativity, artistic endeavours, parades and festivals

Related to theme 4 (Diverse Culture) Mostly along Davie, Rob- West End Hotels son, Denman, Burrard and Georgia Streets but also bed & breakfasts within the quiet residential streets - See theme 2 (Desirable Suburb)

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 93 1154 Gilford Street 1912. Sylvia Hotel

Heritage Register A (M) The Sylvia Hotel is an historic regional landmark. The Sylvia was designed as an apartment building by Mr. W.P. White, a Seattle architect. It was built by Booker, Campbell and Whipple Construc- tion Company and named after the owner’s daughter. During the Depression the Sylvia Court Apartments fell on hard times, and in 1936 the building was converted into an apartment hotel. With the advent of World War II, many of the suites were converted to rooms, in order to provide accommodation for crews of the merchant marine.

After the war the number of permanent residents in the hotel gradually decreased, until by the sixties the Sylvia had become a full-service hotel. In 1954 it opened the first cocktail bar in Vancouver. Until 1958 the Sylvia Hotel was the tallest building in the West End – a well known landmark, its brick and terracotta extension softened by the Virginia creeper which now completely covers the Gilford Street side of the hotel. Until superceded by the West-End building boom of the 1960s, the hotel restaurant’s slogan was “Dine in the Sky”.

In 1975 the Sylvia was protected by a Designation By-law, thereby ensuring its survival for many years to come. All tall buildings and West End views and skyline, its strong physical definition, af- vantage points within and forded by its borders, contributes to the iconic presence of the around the West End, neighbourhood. places that provide a view of the West End, the ocean, mountains and forests within and surrounding the West End.

94 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver PHOTO CREDITS

Page Location Caption 1 and 3 top ‘Siwash Indians and dug-out canoes at Brockton Point’, c. 1897. photo: CVA 371-2213 1 and 3 middle Lush, green, cyclable West End. credit: SFCityscape 1 and 3 bottom The Seawall at English Bay. credit: Inschimert 2 Aerial view of the West End from False Creek, c. 1926. photo: CVA A43247 4 bottom Aerial view of the West End from False Creek, c. 1926. photo: CVA A43247 6 top Musqueam Traditional Territory Map. Detail from Musqueam Band Declaration of 1974. credit: Musqueam Band Archives. 6 middle Giant trees in Stanley Park c. 1892. photo: MP-1974.4.14 Notman Photographic Ar- chives - McCord Museum 6 bottom View of the West End in 1903. photo: CVA - Dist N103.1 8 1st from top Lord Roberts School in 1901. photo: CVA - Str P15 8 2nd from top Vancouver Tourist Association map from 1903 showing the West End streecar ‘loop’. credit: CVA - Trans.P.155N104 8 3rd from top ‘Group of Chinese’, at the entrance to Stanley Park, 1899 photo: Dupont, V.H. Library and Archives Canada PA-117201 8 4th from top Seraphim “Joe” Fortes outside his English Bay cottage, 191-. photo: VPL 86725 8 left ‘A Residential Street, View in the West End’ postcard from 1910. credit: private collec- tion blizzy63. 10 top English Bay in 1931. painting: Limited Edition, Brian Croft. 10 middle St. Andrew’s Wesley Church at Nelson and Burrard, built in 1933. photo: Bob_2006 10 bottom The Sylvia Hotel at English Bay, converted to from apartments to hotel in 1913. photo: Vancouver Sun. 12 top Beaconsfield Apartments on Bute Street in the 1910s. photo: entheos_fog 12 middle left The Lions Gate Bridge. credit: www.mccord-museum.qc.ca 12 middle right ‘Burrard St. Bridge and ’ postcard c. 1948. credit: private collection blizzy63. 12 bottom left 1953 walk-up apartment building on Jervis Street. photo: Elana Zysblat 12 bottom right Del Wood Apartments designed by Semmens and Simpson Architects in 1955. photo: greggsimpson.com. 14 top Beach Avenue in 1966. photo: Robert Ciavarro 14 middle View of the West End in 1967. credit: blizzy63 14 left The Blue Horizon on Robson in 1967. credit: blizzy63 14 bottom Alexis McDonald (daughter of Blanche) posing in the Museum of Anthropology in 1978. photo: Alex Waterhouse Hayward 16 top Chilco Minipark, 1982. photo: Gregory Melle 16 middle Davie Street. photo: Jerome Yau 16 left Festival of Lights fireworks in English Bay. photo: CCEL.ca 16 bottom Mole Hill houses. credit: housedesignnewsworld.blogspot.ca

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 95 18 Women and children in dugout canoe on Fraser River, 1890. CVA-P137 20 top View of West End Houses in 1908. photo: CVA - 677-1044 20 bottom Map of New Liverpool, 1882. CVA Map 696 22 top Illustrated map of Stanley Park from 1930. credit: VPL SPEMAPC 912.71133 I58s 22 bottom Postcard of Firehall # 6 on Nicola Street c 1908. credit: credit: private collection blizzy63 24 top Postcard of English Bay in 1914. credit: credit: private collection blizzy63 24 middle Manhattan Apartment House on Thurlow. photo: wikimedia.org 24 bottom Holly Lodge Apartments on Jervis Street. photo: Bob_2006 26 top Vancouver Tourist Association map from 1903 showing the West End streecar ‘loop’. credit: CVA - Trans.P.155N104 26 bottom Davie Street community garden. photo: jglsongs 28 top Clifton Apartments on Nelson Street in 1940. photo: VPL 5160 28 middle Beach Townhouse Apartments built in 1949. credit: Uncle Buddha 28 bottom View of the West End towards Stanley Park. credit: Smith 28 left Beach Park Apts built in 1960. credit: Uncle Buddha 30 top West End minipark community board. credit: Dean Golemis 30 middle Barclay House roofline. credit: spalla67 30 bottom English Bay in 1917. photo: CVA - A17601 32 top English Bay in 1952. credit: blizzy62 32 bottom Crystal Pool at Sunset Beach, 1966. photo: Robert Ciavarro 33 Waiting for fireworks at English Bay. credit: panoramio.com 34 top ‘Siwash Indians and dug-out canoes at Brockton Point’, c. 1897. photo: CVA 371-2213 34 2nd from top ‘A Residential Street, View in the West End’ postcard from 1910. credit: private collec- tion blizzy63. 34 middle left English Bay in 1931. painting: Limited Edition, Brian Croft. 34 middle right View of the West End in 1967. credit: blizzy63 34 2nd from bottom Gay Pride on Davie Street. photo: PiscesDreamer 34 bottom West End skyline. credit: huffingtonpost.ca 36 top right ‘Siwash Indians and dug-out canoes at Brockton Point’, c. 1897. photo: CVA 371-2213 36 top left Siwash Rock. credit: Bishop and Christie 36 middle left First Nation’s employyes of Muckmuck restaurant on Davie Street go on strike in 1978. photo: libcom.org 36 middle Photo of Blanche McDonald. credit: Vancouver Sun. 36 bottom right The Runner sculpture by Deborah Sparrow outside Musqueam Band Building. photo: Jason Woolman 38 top left House Posts in Stanley Park by Susan Point. credit: City of Vancouver. 38 top right Posing in front of the hollow tree in Stanley Park, 1917. credit: blizzy63

38 bottom Children on English Bay Pier in 1905. photo: CVA - 677-227 40 top Postcard of English Bay in 1914. credit: credit: private collection blizzy63 40 bottom Spring in the West End. photo: likrboy4

96 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver 42 top Laughing statues in English Bay. photo: Susan Gittins 42 bottom Davie Street community garden. photo: jglsongs 44 top left Clifton Apartments on Nelson Street in 1940. photo: VPL 5160 44 top right St. Margaret Apartments in 1943. photo: VPL 5158A 44 middle English Bay in 1952. credit: blizzy62 44 left ‘Apartment Living’. photo: John Goldsmith 44 bottom right The Capri apartment building. photo: top pocket man 46 top West End minipark message board. photo: Christopher Dewolf 46 middle World Naked Bike Ride on Robson Street. photo: Dean Golemis 46 bottom Gay Pride at English Bay. photo: passport112.com 48 top Posing in front of the hollow tree in Stanley Park, 1917. credit: blizzy63 48 middle Fireworks in English Bay. photo: 123rf.com 48 bottom English Bay. photo: Rikki / Julius Reque

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 97 98 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver REFERENCES

Goads. 1912. Fire insurance Maps. Harland Bartholomew and Associates. 1928. A Plan for Vancouver. Henderson’s and Wrigley’s directories. various issues. Hayes, Derek. 2005. Historical Atlas of Vancouver and the Lower Fraser Valley. Douglas & McIntyre. Kalman & Ward, 1993. Exploring Vancouver: The Essential Architectural Guide. UBC Press. Kluckner, Michael. 1990. Vanishing Vancouver. Whitecap Books. Kluckner, Michael. Davis, Chuck. 1997. Editor in Chief: The Greater Vancouver Book. West End. Linkman Press. Luxton Donald, Jan 1, 2003. Building the West: The Early Architects of British Columbia. MacDonald, Bruce. 1992. Vancouver: a Visual History. Talon Books. Musqueam Dialogue Session with the City of Vancouver. Tuesday March 19th, 2013 Musqueam Indian Band. 2009. MAP: Musqueam Statement of Intent and Reserve Locations. GIC Sections. Musqueam Indian Band. 2012. Musqueam Community Profile Musqueam Indian Band. Musqueam, A Living Culture. 2010. Price, Gordon. July 2006. The Origins of Post-Motordom: West End Traffic Calming. SFU City. Vancouver District Lot map. held at City of Vancouver Archives Vancouver Sun & Vancouver Courier Newspapers. various issues. Windsor Liscombe, Rhodri, 1997. The New Spririt: Modern Architecture in Vancouver, 1938-1963. Douglas & McIntyre. Wynn, Graeme and Timothy Oke, eds. 1992. Vancouver and its Region. Vancouver: UBC Press. spacing.ca heritagevancouver.org historicplaces.ca mydavievillage.com englishbay.org www.vancouverhistory.ca Mole-Hill.ca househistorian.blogspot.ca greggsimpson.com

Meeting with West End Neighbourhood Champions Network

Birmingham & Wood • Denise Cook Design • John Atkin • Elana Zysblat • Kamala Todd 99 100 West End Historical Context Report April 2015 City of Vancouver