ICELAND: Land of Fire and Ice
A Tropical Birding Set-Departure
May 28-June 3, 2017 Guide: Ken Behrens
All photos by Ken Behrens
TOUR SUMMARY
Iceland lies in the North Atlantic, just south of the Arctic Circle. Although it is biogeographically part of Europe, it serves as something of a steppingstone between North America and Europe, and has a mix of birds from both places. It is the only place in Europe where Common Loon, Harlequin Duck, and Barrow’s Goldeneye breed. Geologically, Iceland is where the European and North American plates meet. Although like most places in the far north, it is low in diversity, it has a great deal to offer birders. It’s a good place to see some Arctic specialties like Gyrfalcon and Rock Ptarmigan. It also hosts huge numbers of breeding waterfowl, alcids, and shorebirds. The latter are a particular draw, as it’s a real treat to see these birds in their breeding finery, singing and displaying, and often using very different habitats from those that they choose on migration and the wintering grounds. Iceland is also one of the best places on Earth for whales, and this trip includes three whale-watching trips, though unfortunately on this set-departure, our Orca-watching trip was cancelled due to high winds. The landscapes of Iceland are a great draw in themselves. They range from birch forests to geysers and mudpots to quaint and verdant farms, to endless Tundra, glaciers, and snowfields. It’s a stunningly and bewitchingly beautiful country, from the moment that you step off the plane. Finally, Iceland is a relatively short and cheap flight away from both North
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 America and the rest of Europe, and has excellent roads, charming and sparklingly clean hotels, and surprisingly wonderful food, including wonderful cheese and butter, succulent lamb, and world-class seafood.
A lava field being transformed into tundra by a heavy growth of moss; just one of many bizarre and fascinating habitats and landscapes in Iceland.
May 28: Reykjavik to Akureyri to Goðafoss This short tour kicked off with a short domestic flight from Reykjavik to Akureyri, in the northeast of Iceland. We had time for a little birding around town, and quickly spotted common species like Common Eider, Common Tern, and Black-headed Gull, plus a couple of less common prizes: Iceland and Common Gulls, Barnacle Goose, and Red Knot. Right in town, we spent some time photographing Harlequin Ducks; this Icelandic marquee bird is wonderfully common in this part of the country. After a wonderful lunch of soup and bread, we boarded a whale-watching trip. The weather was clear and the water smooth, and we had great luck with many Humpback Whales and a few Harbor Porpoises. Of course there were lots of birds like Northern Fulmar, Parasitic Jaeger, and the omnipresent Arctic Terns as well. In the afternoon, we made our way to our charming guesthouse adjacent the Goðafoss waterfall. Since the sun didn’t set until 11pm, we still had time for an evening excursion to start seeking out some of the waterfowl for which the region is famous. The highlight was a couple of Barrow’s Goldeneye, here at the eastern edge of their global range, plus a couple of twirling Red-necked Phalaropes. We found our first Rock Ptarmigan calling loudly from the roof of our guesthouse and an adjacent barn!
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 May 29: Lake Mývatn We had a full day to explore the area around Lake Mývatn, which is one of Europe’s most important sites for breeding waterfowl, and one of the country’s best birding sites. Throughout the day, there was never a dull moment. Every pond, river, and patch of tundra was occupied with some breeding bird, including large numbers of species like Whimbrel,
Black-tailed Godwit, Common Black-tailed Godwit, of the endemic breeding race, is common and conspicuous, both around Mývatn, and Redshank, Common Snipe, Eurasian throughout most of Iceland. Wigeon, Tufted Duck, and Graylag Goose. We slowly sifted through the large numbers of birds to find less common species like Greater Scaup, Long-tailed Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Northern Pintail, Common Scoter, Horned Grebe, and Red-throated and Common Loons. One of our first sightings of the morning was a couple of Red-necked Phalaropes on the shores of Lake Másvatn, one of which allowed incredibly close approach. Another of the day’s highlights was spotting two men who bore an uncanny resemblance to the Hans and Frans of SNL fame! The midges that give the lake its name were present in vast numbers, and made birding in some places difficult. It seems that we hit the lake on the perfect day, when the warmth and lack of wind reached a critical threshold for a
Mývatn is the waterfowl capital of Europe, and supports the massive midge emergence. It was continent’s only breeding population of Barrow’s Goldeneye.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 an impressive natural spectacle in its own right, and gave a clue as to the richness of this shallow lake, which supports so many breeding birds. We had a fantastic lunch at a working dairy where you can look through a glass wall at the sedate cows as they work on making milk for the next batch of lunchtime visitors. Throughout the day, we had scanned intensely for Gyrfalcon without success. But late in the afternoon, we finally connected with not just one, but two Gyrfalcons; a big gray female and a beautiful white male. It’s a real treat to see the latter color form anywhere in the world. Back at our guesthouse, we found the Rock Ptarmigan still gallivanting around the roofs European Golden-Plover on the lawn of our guesthouse – of the compound, plus a rather a fitting end to a great day. tame European Golden-Plover that had dropped onto the lawn. There is truly never a dull or birdless moment in Iceland!
May 30: Morning boat trip from Húsavík. Afternoon Lake Mývatn On our second full day in the Mývatn area, we headed north to the little town of Húsavík, to catch another whale-watching boat trip. Prior to the boat departure, we had a bit of time to visit some wonderful spots along the coast. The green pastures were full of birds like Common Redshank, Common Snipe, and Eurasian Oystercatcher, not to mention some ridiculously good- looking Icelandic horses. Out near the coast, we spent some time at a beautiful waterfall where Northern Fulmars were swooping around and attending nests, and a constant traffic of Common Eiders flew up and down the river. It was the kind of magical spot that is hard to describe, but which makes a trip to Iceland so special.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 Just as our whale-watching trip headed out of the port, a cold drizzle began to fall, and we would battle with wet weather throughout the trip. Thankfully, the boat company is well equipped with warm coats and rain slickers to keep their clients warm. We persevered, and quite enjoyed the boat trip, but the same cannot be said of most of our fellow passengers, who wilted from a combination of cold and seasickness! In addition to sighting a couple of Humpback Whales, we visited a huge Atlantic Puffin colony, where thousands of birds could be seen buzzing around their breeding island. A couple of Great Skuas shot by, while Black Guillemots skittered off the water at the approach of the boat. Back in town, we found a restaurant with a cozy dining room, settled in next to a warm radiator, dried off our wet clothes, and enjoyed some local specialties including a delicious lobster burger.
Iceland is one of the best spots on Earth for whalewatching. Shown here is a Humpback Whale.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 In the late afternoon, John and I returned to Lake Mývatn. Although we didn’t see any new species, we had great success getting photos of Barrow’s Goldeneye and Harlequin Ducks at close range. We actually appreciated the cold and windy weather, as it kept the midges down! We searched for our Gyrfalcons from the previous day, but didn’t manage to relocate them. Harlequin Duck is wonderfully common around Mývatn. Iceland is the only place in Europe where this fabulous duck is found May 31: Goðafoss to Grundarfjörður On the previous day, I had received word that our Orca-watching trip for June 1st had been cancelled, but that we had the option to join a trip on May 31st. So we left Goðafoss early to arrive at the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in time to catch the boat trip. Although we didn’t have lots of time for birding stops, we did pause in a valley that was full of breeding Pink-footed Geese. Just as we reached the base of the peninsula, I received word that the storm front had arrived earlier than expected, and that the boat trip was cancelled. Ah well, this left us nearly a whole day to explore the spectacular Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is often described as “Iceland in miniature”. As we wound around A tiny church in Hellnavegur, a village where we had lunch. the north shore of the peninsula,
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 we were flabbergasted again and again by the beautiful scenes that presented themselves: rocky bays, lush coastal meadows, mossy tundra, and rugged snow-capped mountains. Iceland is truly one of the most beautiful places on Earth, and its combination of lava fields, volcanoes, and rugged coastline, is unique.
We enjoyed fantastic views and closeup photo-ops of a pair of Red-throated Loons.
The birding highlights of the day came near the small and (no surprise!) picturesque village where we had a (predictably!) wonderful lunch. On a small pond, I spotted a pair of Red-throated Loons, in their stunning breeding plumage. I quickly turned around, and just as I parked the vehicle, spotted a huge soaring bird: a White-tailed Eagle, one of the rarest of Iceland’s breeding birds! The massive eagle circled just over our heads before heading off to the south. Returning our focus to the loons, we cautiously approached the edge of the water and were able to get very close to the loons and get some good pictures. Although this wasn’t technically a photo-tour, we enjoyed good success at photographing nearly every species that we saw. Icelandic birds are
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 generally tame, and the relatively small list of targets leaves you lots of time to savor each sightings and document it with photos. After checking into the huge rooms at our guesthouse in Grundarfjörður, John and I headed out to the nearby Kirkjufell Mountain to do a bit of climbing. We made it about halfway up the mountain, plenty high enough for wonderful views of the Grundarfjörður bay, the Kirkfoss waterfall, and the surrounding mountains. What a spectacular place – even by Icelandic standards! Our climb also paid off with a new bird, a beautiful Northern Wheatear!
June 1: Snæfellsnes Peninsula Because of the cancellation of our boat trip, we had a full day to explore the peninsula by land. When we woke up to roaring winds, it was obvious why the boat had been cancelled. Although the weather posed a challenge, we still had a wonderful day. Perhaps the highlight was the seabird colony at the tip of the peninsula, which had many Black-legged Kittiwakes and Northern Fulmars, plus Common and Thick-billed Murres, and Razorbill. Another highlight of the day was finding a Snow Bunting in a moss-covered lava field, and eventually seeing it at incredibly close range. What a beautiful bird, whose breeding colors perfectly match those of its environment. We had yet another great lunch in yet another picturesque seaside village. Hot soup and several cups of coffee were most welcome on this cold and blustery day. Working our way back towards Grundarfjörður, we savored some more of the peninusla’s great scenery, first poking into the mountains, then doing a short walk to a towering waterfall. In another evening excursion, John and I managed to find a couple new birds: a Ruddy Turnstone and a small migrating flock of Brant.
There is endless hauntingly beautiful scenery on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 June 2: Grundarfjörður to Reykjavik Although visiting the famous “Golden Circle” had been planned on the original itinerary, we unanimously decided to skip this heavily visited area and focus on the coastline between Snæfellsnes and Keflavík instead. Although this meant missing a couple of famous tourist attractions, it gave us a
much more relaxed day, with a lot Short-eared Owl was a much-wanted bird that we found at more birding. Along the way, we the last minute, on the way back to Reykjavik. lucked into a pair of Short-eared Owls in flight. Pulling off the busy road, we enjoyed watching and photographing these elegant birds for the next half-hour. This turned out to be a serendipitous stop, as the nearby inlet held a couple of Common Shelducks – a rare bird in Iceland. The surrounding meadows and tundra were also full of shorebirds like Common Ringed Plover, Black-tailed Godwit, and some nesting Eurasian Oystercatchers. As we neared Reykjavik, I decided to stop in a patch of forest that is good for a couple of Iceland’s passerines. Walking among green birches was quite a shocking change after days in open meadows and tundra. After a bit of work, we had great views of an exuberantly singing Eurasian Wren,
Common Redshank is one of the most common of plus a small flock of Common Redpolls. Iceland’s many breeding shorebirds.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 Since a small shopping expedition had been requested, I made a diversion into downtown Reykjavik, an attractive city, though lacking the old buildings that your subconsciously expect of a Nordic capital. Some souvenirs were secured, though the prices for things, most of which were probably made in China, were rather shocking! Rounding the bay, we passed through the huge lava fields west of Reykjavik. Just as we reached the outskirts of Keflavík, I spotted a Merlin sighting on a street light – one last bird for the list! Over a final dinner, we discussed and compiled our favorite sightings from the trip, which are listed below.
Top Trip Sightings:
1) Short-eared Owl
2) White-tailed Eagle à
3) Gyrfalcon
4) Black-tailed Godwit
6) Rock Ptarmigan
7) Harlequin Duck
8) Red-throated Loon
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 PHOTO GALLERY
Arctic Terns are omnipresent along the coast of Iceland…
…as are Common Eiders.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Common Scoter is one of the less common breeding ducks at Lake Mývatn and in Iceland in general.
Harlequin Duck is wonderfully common, and endlessly engaging.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
It’s always good to see the European Starling (left) in Europe. And it’s actually quite a beautiful bird! The Pink-footed Goose (right) is mainly found in the highlands of Iceland during the summer.
Northern Fulmar is another wonderfully common Icelandic bird, breeding on almost every cliff.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Eurasian Oystercatchers are all over the landscape along the coast.
Kirkjufell, near Grundarfjörður, is one of Iceland’s most iconic mountains.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
We saw many 1000s of Atlantic Puffins near a breeding colony on our boat trip out of Húsavík.
A Northern Fulmar tending a nest, at a waterfall near Húsavík.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Snow Bunting on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is sometimes described as “Iceland in miniature”.
A stormy day dark-morph Parasitic Jaeger.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
At Lake Mývatn, we found lots of Tufted Ducks (left) and White Wagtails (right).
Common Ringed Plover is the European equivalent of the North American Semipalmated Plover.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
We had several great Great Skua sightings on our boat trip out of Húsavík.
Black-headed Gull (left) and Razorbill (right).
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Black-tailed Godwit – what a beauty!
An abandoned farm on Lárvaðall, Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Rock Ptarmigan is hard to find in some years, but they were quite common on this trip.
A drake Barrow’s Goldeneye, showing off its sickle-shaped white facial marking and glossy purple head.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
The harbor at Grundarfjörður is a great place for the hefty and pallid Glaucous Gull.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Redwing is probably the most common passerine in Iceland – found in most habitats.
A picturesque farm near Reykjahlíð.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Whooper Swans in the snow and mist of an overcast day.
Seeing birds like this Whimbrel in their summertime tundra habitat is a real pleasure.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Mrs. and Mr. Red-necked Phalarope.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Purple Sandpiper is an uncommon breeding bird in Iceland.
Harlequin Ducks are master swimmers that live in fast-flowing rivers and streams.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Love was in the air for the Arctic Terns near Rif, on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Black-legged Kittiwake (left) and Eurasian Oystercatcher (right) on the wing.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Seeing several Long-tailed Ducks in breeding plumage was a treat.
There are waterfalls all over the landscape. This one near Húsavík was especially memorable and magical.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Eurasian Oystercatcher (left) and Greylag Goose (right).
Blue Lake, near Lake Mývatn, is a bizarre sight.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Common Redshank is common indeed.
European Golden-Plover on a gorgeous carpet of Arctic tundra.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Nootka Lupines were blooming all over the landscape.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Meadow Pipit is common in most of Iceland’s open habitats, especially in coastal meadows.
A male Tufted Duck showing off its namesake tuft.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Grundarfjörður: little town on the tundra.
Displaying Rock Ptarmigans favor prominent perches, including the roof of our hotel in one case!
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Common Snipe lives up to its name in Iceland; it is one of the most common birds.
Mallard is actually quite an uncommon Icelandic bird.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
On Snæfellsnes: a charming café in Stykkishólmur (left) and the seabird cliffs at Svörtuloft (right).
Another look at the cute Common Ringed Plover.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Horned Grebe is an odd and wonderful little bird in breeding plumage.
Icelandic horses are ridiculously good-looking.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Goðafoss is one of the best of Iceland’s myriad waterfalls. And it is only a stone’s throw from the guest housewhere we spent three nights!
Common Redshank showing off its blazing red legs.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Northern Wheatear breeds in some of the most barren habitats of Iceland.
Immature Black-legged Kittiwake (left) and yet another spectacular waterfall: Bjarnarfoss (right).
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Blue, green, and red; a Black-tailed Godwit in a coastal meadow.
Drake Common Eiders in immaculate plumage near Akureyri.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Harlequin Duck: who could ever get tired of this bird?!
Geothermal wonders at Hverarönd, east of Lake Mývatn.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
An odd Mew Gull in partially leucistic plumage (left). A close-up look at a female Red-necked Phalarope (right).
A much more typical-looking Mew Gull.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
It’s a joy to be in a country where Parasitic Jaegers are all over the landscape.
Seeing any whale, like this Humpback, is an incredible experience.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
The remote little town of Ólafsvík has a wonderful bakery.
Have I mentioned that Parasitic Jaegers are amazing?!
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Thick-billed Murre is an alcid of the far north Atlantic.
Rain beading up on the back of a Eurasian Oystercatcher.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Northern Fulmar… snow-capped mountains… typical Iceland scene.
Greylag Geese, looking not particularly gray.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
There are very few passerines in Iceland. Members of this exclusive club include Snow Bunting (left) and Common Redpoll (right).
Drake Barrow’s Goldeneye.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Black-legged Kittiwake on its nest, perched on a sea cliff.
European Golden-Plover is a gorgeous bird in breeding plumage.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
Parasitic Jaeger… beautiful tundra… what’s not to like?!
A Rock Ptarmigan glides across a lava field.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017
The Common Eider has a bizarre shade of green on its nape.
Feeding frenzy of Glaucous Gulls and Northern Fulmars.
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 BIRD LIST
Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The Clements Checklist of the Birds of the World v2016 (including updates through August 2016).
ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae Pink-footed Goose Anser brachyrhynchus Graylag Goose Anser anser Brant Branta bernicla Barnacle Goose Branta leucopsis Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna Gadwall Anas strepera Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Pintail Anas acuta Green-winged Teal Anas crecca Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Greater Scaup Aythya marila Common Eider Somateria mollissima Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus Common Scoter Melanitta nigra Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis Barrow's Goldeneye Bucephala islandica Common Merganser Mergus merganser Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae Rock Ptarmigan Lagopus muta GAVIIFORMES: Gaviidae Red-throated Loon Gavia stellata Common Loon Gavia immer PODICIPEDIFORMES: Podicipedidae Horned Grebe Podiceps auritus PROCELLARIIFORMES: Procellariidae Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis SULIFORMES: Sulidae Northern Gannet Morus bassanus SULIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis ACCIPITRIFORMES: Accipitridae White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla CHARADRIIFORMES: Haematopodidae Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae European Golden-Plover Pluvialis apricaria Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae Common Redshank Tringa totanus Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Red Knot Calidris canutus Dunlin Calidris alpina Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus CHARADRIIFORMES: Stercorariidae Great Skua Stercorarius skua Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus CHARADRIIFORMES: Alcidae Common Guillemot Uria aalge Brunnich's Guillemot Uria lomvia Razorbill Alca torda Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica CHARADRIIFORMES: Laridae Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Mew Gull Larus canus Herring Gull Larus argentatus Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae Rock Pigeon Columba livia STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae Merlin Falco columbarius Gyrfalcon Falco rusticolus PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae Common Raven Corvus corax PASSERIFORMES: Troglodytidae Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Redwing Turdus iliacus PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae European Starling Sturnus vulgaris PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae White Wagtail Motacilla alba Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis PASSERIFORMES: Calcariidae Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae Common Redpoll Acanthis flammea
MAMMAL LIST
Cetacea: Whales, dolphins & porpoises Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangilae Harbour Porpoise Phocoena phocoena Pinnipedia: Seals Harbour (Common) Seal Phoca vitulina
Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017