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ICELAND: Land of Fire and Ice

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ICELAND: Land of Fire and Ice ICELAND: Land of Fire and Ice A Tropical Birding Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 Guide: Ken Behrens All photos by Ken Behrens TOUR SUMMARY Iceland lies in the North Atlantic, just south of the Arctic Circle. Although it is biogeographically part of Europe, it serves as something of a steppingstone between North America and Europe, and has a mix of birds from both places. It is the only place in Europe where Common Loon, Harlequin Duck, and Barrow’s Goldeneye breed. Geologically, Iceland is where the European and North American plates meet. Although like most places in the far north, it is low in diversity, it has a great deal to offer birders. It’s a good place to see some Arctic specialties like Gyrfalcon and Rock Ptarmigan. It also hosts huge numbers of breeding waterfowl, alcids, and shorebirds. The latter are a particular draw, as it’s a real treat to see these birds in their breeding finery, singing and displaying, and often using very different habitats from those that they choose on migration and the wintering grounds. Iceland is also one of the best places on Earth for whales, and this trip includes three whale-watching trips, though unfortunately on this set-departure, our Orca-watching trip was cancelled due to high winds. The landscapes of Iceland are a great draw in themselves. They range from birch forests to geysers and mudpots to quaint and verdant farms, to endless Tundra, glaciers, and snowfields. It’s a stunningly and bewitchingly beautiful country, from the moment that you step off the plane. Finally, Iceland is a relatively short and cheap flight away from both North Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 America and the rest of Europe, and has excellent roads, charming and sparklingly clean hotels, and surprisingly wonderful food, including wonderful cheese and butter, succulent lamb, and world-class seafood. A lava field being transformed into tundra by a heavy growth of moss; just one of many bizarre and fascinating habitats and landscapes in Iceland. May 28: Reykjavik to Akureyri to Goðafoss This short tour kicked off with a short domestic flight from Reykjavik to Akureyri, in the northeast of Iceland. We had time for a little birding around town, and quickly spotted common species like Common Eider, Common Tern, and Black-headed Gull, plus a couple of less common prizes: Iceland and Common Gulls, Barnacle Goose, and Red Knot. Right in town, we spent some time photographing Harlequin Ducks; this Icelandic marquee bird is wonderfully common in this part of the country. After a wonderful lunch of soup and bread, we boarded a whale-watching trip. The weather was clear and the water smooth, and we had great luck with many Humpback Whales and a few Harbor Porpoises. Of course there were lots of birds like Northern Fulmar, Parasitic Jaeger, and the omnipresent Arctic Terns as well. In the afternoon, we made our way to our charming guesthouse adjacent the Goðafoss waterfall. Since the sun didn’t set until 11pm, we still had time for an evening excursion to start seeking out some of the waterfowl for which the region is famous. The highlight was a couple of Barrow’s Goldeneye, here at the eastern edge of their global range, plus a couple of twirling Red-necked Phalaropes. We found our first Rock Ptarmigan calling loudly from the roof of our guesthouse and an adjacent barn! Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 May 29: Lake Mývatn We had a full day to explore the area around Lake Mývatn, which is one of Europe’s most important sites for breeding waterfowl, and one of the country’s best birding sites. Throughout the day, there was never a dull moment. Every pond, river, and patch of tundra was occupied with some breeding bird, including large numbers of species like Whimbrel, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Black-tailed Godwit, of the endemic breeding race, is common and conspicuous, both around Mývatn, and Redshank, Common Snipe, Eurasian throughout most of Iceland. Wigeon, Tufted Duck, and Graylag Goose. We slowly sifted through the large numbers of birds to find less common species like Greater Scaup, Long-tailed Duck, Red-breasted Merganser, Northern Pintail, Common Scoter, Horned Grebe, and Red-throated and Common Loons. One of our first sightings of the morning was a couple of Red-necked Phalaropes on the shores of Lake Másvatn, one of which allowed incredibly close approach. Another of the day’s highlights was spotting two men who bore an uncanny resemblance to the Hans and Frans of SNL fame! The midges that give the lake its name were present in vast numbers, and made birding in some places difficult. It seems that we hit the lake on the perfect day, when the warmth and lack of wind reached a critical threshold for a Mývatn is the waterfowl capital of Europe, and supports the massive midge emergence. It was continent’s only breeding population of Barrow’s Goldeneye. Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 an impressive natural spectacle in its own right, and gave a clue as to the richness of this shallow lake, which supports so many breeding birds. We had a fantastic lunch at a working dairy where you can look through a glass wall at the sedate cows as they work on making milk for the next batch of lunchtime visitors. Throughout the day, we had scanned intensely for Gyrfalcon without success. But late in the afternoon, we finally connected with not just one, but two Gyrfalcons; a big gray female and a beautiful white male. It’s a real treat to see the latter color form anywhere in the world. Back at our guesthouse, we found the Rock Ptarmigan still gallivanting around the roofs European Golden-Plover on the lawn of our guesthouse – of the compound, plus a rather a fitting end to a great day. tame European Golden-Plover that had dropped onto the lawn. There is truly never a dull or birdless moment in Iceland! May 30: Morning boat trip from Húsavík. Afternoon Lake Mývatn On our second full day in the Mývatn area, we headed north to the little town of Húsavík, to catch another whale-watching boat trip. Prior to the boat departure, we had a bit of time to visit some wonderful spots along the coast. The green pastures were full of birds like Common Redshank, Common Snipe, and Eurasian Oystercatcher, not to mention some ridiculously good- looking Icelandic horses. Out near the coast, we spent some time at a beautiful waterfall where Northern Fulmars were swooping around and attending nests, and a constant traffic of Common Eiders flew up and down the river. It was the kind of magical spot that is hard to describe, but which makes a trip to Iceland so special. Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 Just as our whale-watching trip headed out of the port, a cold drizzle began to fall, and we would battle with wet weather throughout the trip. Thankfully, the boat company is well equipped with warm coats and rain slickers to keep their clients warm. We persevered, and quite enjoyed the boat trip, but the same cannot be said of most of our fellow passengers, who wilted from a combination of cold and seasickness! In addition to sighting a couple of Humpback Whales, we visited a huge Atlantic Puffin colony, where thousands of birds could be seen buzzing around their breeding island. A couple of Great Skuas shot by, while Black Guillemots skittered off the water at the approach of the boat. Back in town, we found a restaurant with a cozy dining room, settled in next to a warm radiator, dried off our wet clothes, and enjoyed some local specialties including a delicious lobster burger. Iceland is one of the best spots on Earth for whalewatching. Shown here is a Humpback Whale. Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 In the late afternoon, John and I returned to Lake Mývatn. Although we didn’t see any new species, we had great success getting photos of Barrow’s Goldeneye and Harlequin Ducks at close range. We actually appreciated the cold and windy weather, as it kept the midges down! We searched for our Gyrfalcons from the previous day, but didn’t manage to relocate them. Harlequin Duck is wonderfully common around Mývatn. Iceland is the only place in Europe where this fabulous duck is found May 31: Goðafoss to Grundarfjörður On the previous day, I had received word that our Orca-watching trip for June 1st had been cancelled, but that we had the option to join a trip on May 31st. So we left Goðafoss early to arrive at the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in time to catch the boat trip. Although we didn’t have lots of time for birding stops, we did pause in a valley that was full of breeding Pink-footed Geese. Just as we reached the base of the peninsula, I received word that the storm front had arrived earlier than expected, and that the boat trip was cancelled. Ah well, this left us nearly a whole day to explore the spectacular Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is often described as “Iceland in miniature”. As we wound around A tiny church in Hellnavegur, a village where we had lunch. the north shore of the peninsula, Iceland Set-Departure May 28-June 3, 2017 we were flabbergasted again and again by the beautiful scenes that presented themselves: rocky bays, lush coastal meadows, mossy tundra, and rugged snow-capped mountains.
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