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[ The Mediterranean ESCAPADE ] t happened so fast. One moment I was perched on the edge of an airplane looking down at 12,000ft of empty space, the next I was free-falling, throat in my mouth. I managed to catch my breath and take in the exhilaration of flying in mid-air, giving a grin and thumbs-up to the GoPro-wielding cameraman falling past. Then my tandem Home instructor pulled the parachute cord and we started Away From Home Ito float idly down, down, down. It was magical. I stared down at the spectacular Skydiving, fine dining and an endless array of spa view below me — to one side, a glimpse of the sessions. elaine kim spent the summer crossing the glittering Ionian Sea and to the other, a bird’s eye view over the ancient ruins of Ephesus — its vast Mediterranean from to Italy closeted in luxury amphitheatre spread below my dangling feet. I was on a shore excursion organised by our Silversea Cruises concierge, as we cruised in the Mediterranean — past the isles and inlets of Greece and , up the Dalmatian coastline of Croatia and , then to the Istrian peninsula of Italy with Venice as the final stop. But I must confess our vacation started way before we embarked on the cruise — in a suite at Espa in London’s . My husband and I had chosen the English capital as our gateway into Europe. Right in the middle of Knightsbridge is this recently opened oasis of calm. Spa pools surrounded by flickering candles, relaxation beds curtained with soft white muslin, soft music playing in aromatherapy-scented rooms — it was worlds apart from the hustle and bustle just outside. Here, in the hands of a therapist who gently kneaded my cares away, my holiday truly began.

A Peaceful Life The next day, we caught a short flight to Athens. While our cruise was departing from the Piraeus port, we decided to spend a couple of nights in Porto Heli, a scenic two-hour drive (or half-hour helicopter ride) from Athens. This sleepy Peloponnese fishing village, flanked by blue seas and mountains dotted with summer homes of shipping tycoons, recently gained the distinction of being the site chosen for ’ first Greek property, Amanzoe, which translates into “a peaceful life”. A discreet sign simply stating the property’s name marked the entrance to a steep narrow path that led to the resort. Our first glimpse was a curved line of pillared white buildings, resembling an acropolis rising out in the hills. The main building is a colonnaded, Parthenon-like structure in white marble; Ed Tuttle, one of my most- admired architects, had succeeded in conjuring up a place that would have belonged in an ancient Greek city, yet was sleek and modern. admiring the view from the There are 38 free-standing pavilions in Amanzoe, terrace at Aman on the coast of Montenegro each with a living area, covered terrace and swimming pool overlooking the hills and sea.

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skydiving in turkey while on a shore excursion in the mediterranean

standing at the entrance of A perfect private space to relax by an ancient greece-inspired the pool in our pavilion at amanzoe What’s Not to Love architecture at amannzoe Pressed by friends to put a finger on what keeps Elaine and her husband going back to Silversea Cruises, she presents five reasons

bay of kotor — one of the stops on board silversea cruises

Stepping into the immaculate space of beige stone and blonde wood softened by greige fabric and cream woven rugs, we felt at home immediately. Like most guests at Amanzoe, we were happy to spend much of our time within the privacy of the "We get to visit so many places, including remote pavilion. In the morning, the butler would set the destinations that would be difficult to reach otherwise. We’ve sailed into Antarctica and the large table on the terrace for a sumptuous breakfast 1 Falkland Islands, Tortola and Guadeloupe, Olympia and of halloumi and omelette, pastries and baklava, and Ephesus — each an incredible destination that would have honey-drizzled Greek yoghurt, after which we would required an arduous journey by plane, boat and car to read by the pool while lounging on the daybed with a reach." view across the valley. "Some shore excursions are once-in-a-lifetime We were lured out of the villa for a heavenly experiences. Curated and thoughtfully selected by treatment at the spa, pilates in the colonnaded open 2the Silversea concierge, they rarely disappoint. We’ve pavilion and a swim in the marble resort pool perched done champagne sails on a catamaran in the Caribbean, watched as the San Valentin glacier in the Northern 180m above sea-level. Before sunset was the perfect time Patagonian Ice Field calved, zip-glided through the jungle to take the Mercedes SUV shuttle to Amanzoe’s private in St Lucia, gone horseback riding through spectacular beach club five minutes away on the secluded Korakia landscapes in Chile and jet-skied in Croatia." bay where, for a perfect hour, we lay side-by-side in "It’s a joy to be able to order anything and never a daybed talking and watching the sun set over the have to sign a bill. The all-inclusive fares on glittering Aegean. 3Silversea cover gourmet meals, 24-hour room service, beverages, movies, entertainment and gratuities. Call of the Sea Each meal is a gourmet affair, with Relais & Châteaux- acclaimed chefs at the helm of the five or six restaurants Our voyage continued across the Mediterranean on- aboard. The only hitch is that the glorious food also makes board Silversea Cruises (see sidebar on why we love one gloriously fat." this company), a sailing expedition that lasted 11 idyllic days, during which remarkable experiences awaited us "Life at sea is wonderfully relaxing. There’s a lifestyle amanzoe's the restaurant that we adopt once shipboard, a decadent routine at each port. In one Silvershore Experience, we enjoyed 4that falls comfortably in place. In the mornings, if we a concert in an enchanting setting — amongst the ruins feel like sleeping in, we have room service in bed or on of the Library of Celsus in the ancient Greco-Roman site our veranda (perfect sea views every day!). We’d spend the We visited medieval towns, of Ephesus. day ashore on a port day, but sea days are filled with lazy pursuits — reading by the pool, hitting golf balls on deck, wandering through the We visited medieval towns, wandering through the endless spa sessions or just curling up in bed to watch cobblestoned streets of Hvar cobblestoned streets of Hvar and scaling the ramparts one of nearly 1,000 movies available." of Dubrovnik’s city walls. There were beautiful beaches and scaling the ramparts of on which to bask in the summer sun — Paleokastritsa "Service is impeccable. It is perhaps the warmth and Dubrovnik’s city walls exquisite service of the staff that leaves the biggest beach in Corfu with its azure blue waters, the private 5impression on me. With a staff-passenger ratio of 1:1 pebbled beaches of Aman Sveti Stefan in Montenegro and a butler for every suite, each guest is pampered by with its medieval village at the water’s edge. personalised and thoughtful but unobtrusive service. They Docked in the magnificent Bay of Kotor one evening, know you by name, anticipate your wishes, accede to every request with a genuine smile and have a way of making we had dinner on the deck, enjoying slow-food cuisine you feel special." and Italian wine as the sun set over the mountains in visiting a medieval town in dubrovnik the horizon.

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La Dolce Vita After traversing the Mediterranean, make time for these two sweet spots in Italy

ESPA spa pool at the Bvlgari milan hotel

dining at cip's club with A breathtaking sunset view

the basilica di san marco

inside the Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli in milan

tourists enjoying a basking in the scenery while relaxing gondola ride MILAN undeniably stylish. Chef Andrea Ferrero S GETTY IMAGE Who can ever get tired of the fashion capital delighted us with his degustazione — a never- paddling along lake garda that is Milan? A stop in Quadrilatero d’Oro ending succession of superb dishes like cruising with my son along would be a sin to skip. The shopping quarter wild salmon with fennel, culatello ham and the grand canal in venice bordered by four adjacent streets, it is linguini with botargo. lined by designer stores where the latest designs jump from the catwalks to the rails LAKE GARDA within weeks and pieces go out of fashion Being in Milan in the middle of a cool even before they have reached New York summer, we decided to take a little getaway- or London. Take time out as well to visit within-a-getaway to Lake Garda, a two-hour the Duomo, Teatro alla Scala and fabulous drive east of Milan. The beautiful shores restaurants such as Cracco and Trussardi of Garda, the largest of the Italian lakes, alla Scala. have inspired many a book and sonnet. DH Mediterranean bath, chroma-therapy suite At the end of the day, check in at the Lawrence once described it as “the most and even a relaxation room with a salt wall. seductive Bulgari hotel. Our superior suite beautiful place on earth”. The inventive spa treatments draw from had a spacious living room large enough to Here and there, the grey-green waters remedies from around the world — Native-

S GETTY IMAGE host a little soirée and a luxurious bathroom, were dotted by sailboats and windsurfers. American stone massages, Ayurvedic rituals, featuring an oversized travertine bathtub. But Blessed with balmy weather and good wind, facials using Japanese koshimaru silk- it was the little touches at Bulgari that made Garda is the go-to Italian lake for water imbued Kanebo products. all the difference — hot verbena tea in a sports, hence it attracts a younger crowd. A retreat at Lido Palace is incomplete Venice, one of my favourite places in the water’s edge steps away from St Mark’s You could spend the whole day cocooned thermos on the mahogany desk and hazelnut The perfect complement to our escape without dinner at its Il Re Della Busa world, was the final stop of the cruise. The Square and under a canopied dock, picked in this small palace with its vast, blue meringue on the coffee table. in Lake Garda was a spa retreat at Lido restaurant. You dine on a candlelit terrace city of canals abounds with attractions — up a silver telephone and dialled the button seawater pool, expansive gardens, tennis On the day of my appointment, the spa had Palace Hotel in Riva del Garda, a lively resort within a glass structure cantilevered over the Palazzo Ducale, Basilica di San Marco and for the Cipriani. Within minutes, the hotel’s courts and spa. The hotel’s lagoon-side left on our bed a bathrobe and slippers tied in town on the northern shore. The hotel sits gardens, the gorgeous lake view reflected in the Peggy Guggenheim, but the best way sleek, mahogany motorboat pulled up to restaurant, Cip’s Club, is worth a visit in ribbon with a note saying they were looking in a belle époque building set on sprawling the mirrored walls. We tasted some delicious to experience the city is to just wander take us across the Grand Canal to the famed itself. forward to seeing me at my appointment. parkland. From the outside, it is stately and creations from the restaurant’s Michelin- aimlessly through it. hotel. Perched over the water under a canopied The spa is one of the most beautiful I’ve been grand, but indoors, it’s suddenly sleek and starred chef, like a trio of foie gras: Rhubarb- So we climbed aboard a vaporetto and The spires of St Mark’s are framed by the deck, the glamorous al fresco restaurant to and in particular, the heated pool, tiled in avant-garde and refreshingly modern. flavoured, smoked and in crème brûlée, and took a leisurely ride down the Grand Canal. windows of Cipriani’s lagoon-facing rooms, serves delicious Italian cuisine with one gold mosaic, is exquisite. The Centoundici spa is a 15,000-sq-ft Barberie duck with caramelised peaches. We found our way to St Mark’s Square and but cloistered amid lush gardens; it feels a of the most sublime views in Venice. We The restaurant is worth mentioning too — haven with an outdoor pool in the hydrangea- It was a fitting end to our trip: Enjoying whiled an afternoon away at the age-old Caffè world away from the hustle of Venice. The watched the sun set in the horizon and at we had, unexpectedly, one of the best meals filled garden, a heated indoor pool and exquisite food and fine Italian wine with a view Florian, watching people go by as we had tea hotel is an age-old establishment that has, night, the canopy was pulled back, so we of our trip here. The restaurant and bar are Jacuzzi, Finnish sauna, Turkish hammam, of truly “the most beautiful place on earth”. and ice cream, while fiddlers played nearby. for decades, provided a private Venetian dined under the stars — there’s no better As the sun set, we strolled over to the sanctuary for the ultra-rich and movie stars. way to live.

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