The Purple Storm NEW YORK — the Time Is Ripe for People with a Purple Passion
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FUNDS EYE CAVALLI/2 SWAROVSKI BUILDS ACCESSORIES/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • May 1, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear The Purple Storm NEW YORK — The time is ripe for people with a purple passion. Rich violet hues are popping up in a variety of accessories this season. Here, Replay’s leather and plastic belt at Modamood, Le Silla’s silk satin and rhinestone shoe, Emilio Pucci’s patent leather bag and Chanel’s lambskin bag. Youth Meets Maturity: St. John Seeks Balance in Newest Phase By Lisa Lockwood member Philip Miller as interim been the talk of the industry lately NEW YORK — Get ready for chapter ceo, the company hopes to put the as Cohen heads back East, and three at St. John. past rocky 18 months and recent Miller heads West to stabilize the With the abrupt departure declines in sell-throughs behind it. firm while setting a new strategy last month of Richard Cohen, The 44-year-old St. John, focused primarily on product. its president and chief executive which was run for more than four During his controversial tenure, officer, and the naming of board decades by the Gray family, has See St. John, Page 6 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MAY 1, 2006 WWD.COM Private Equity Players Eye Cavalli WWDMONDAY PARIS — Private equity funds, increasingly ac- SAB, based in Saudi Arabia, intends to make Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear tive in the fashion and luxury sector, appear to multiple investments in fashion and luxury be circling around Roberto goods and currently is look- Cavalli. Roberto ing at two other European GENERAL Officials at Cavalli de- Cavalli fi rms, the sources said. With the departure of ceo Richard Cohen and the naming of Phil Miller clined to comment for this Recent months have seen 1 as interim ceo, St. John hopes to put the recent rocky period behind it. story, so the likelihood of several headline deals in- EYE: Lindsay Lohan turned up at the Barneys-hosted Nina Ricci fashion a transaction could not be volving private equity play- 4 show and dinner Wednesday night to benefi t the Rape Treatment Center. learned. But a source close ers, including Change Capital to the designer said Cavalli Partners buying Jil Sander, ACCESSORIES: Swarovski believes it has the potential to sparkle even has been disappointed with Sun Capital Partners Inc. 10 more brightly and is looking to its accessories to bring on the shine. the valuations of several of- taking on Stila Cosmetics and Hurt by expenses from its three-year restructuring program, Avon fers he’s received and be- Sciens Capital Management 20 Products reported fi rst-quarter earnings fell by two-thirds. lieves his company is worth LLC and Plainfield Asset upward of 1 billion euros, or Management LLC teaming Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................29-31 $1.25 billion at current ex- up for Asprey. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. change. He is said to favor Roberto Cavalli SpA’s minority investments or is 2004 balance sheet, the most [email protected], using the individual’s name. possibly seeking a public of- recent available, shows the WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. fering in a few years. fi rm posted a net profi t of 1.4 VOLUME 191, NO. 92. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- One of the companies million euros, or $1.7 million ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- eyeing Cavalli, WWD has at average rates for the pe- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers learned, is SAB Capital, a riod, on sales of 97.7 million Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and new fund established by euros, or $121.1 million. But C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Sheikh Salah Al-Belawi. SAB the designer also has a host Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance has submitted a bid for 60 of lucrative licensing deals, Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. percent of Cavalli. 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Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. his wife, Eva, who jointly control the company. — Miles Socha and Amanda Kaiser Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Gap Campaign Evokes Summer of ’69 us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- By David Moin Gap’s pop-up store converted ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, from a Sixties school bus. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED NEW YORK — Though sales gains are elusive, Gap Inc. is TUESDAY: Steven Madden Ltd. reports first-quarter gaining confidence in its prod- sales and earnings. ucts and will spotlight summer offerings with a marketing cam- WEDNESDAY: Procter & Gamble Co. reports third-quar- paign called Rock Color. ter sales and earnings. It’s inspired by the summer of 1969, the year the company was THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report on April same- founded, and includes a pop-up store sales. store, which is actually a convert- dise, but those by retailers such The Gap campaign also in- The Estée Lauder Cos. reports third-quarter sales ed school bus from the Sixties that as J.C. Penney, Target and Wal- volves in-store promotions, win- and earnings. will drive to summer resort spots Mart were all stationary. J. Crew dows, print ads, direct-mail and CVS Corp. reports fi rst-quarter sales and earnings. on a mission to sell T-shirts, hood- has used the mobile approach on outdoor ads and an online micro- ies, fl ip-fl ops and beach hats. the East End of Long Island de- site offering customers the chance FRIDAY: Mido, Milan (through May 8). Gap is the latest in a string livering summer goods door-to- to win concert tickets. Color is a The U.S. Labor Department releases the April em- of retailers to use the pop-up door on weekends in a 1988 Jeep key component of the campaign. ployment report. approach to promote merchan- Grand Wagoneer. “The summer of 1969 is part Caché Inc. reports fi rst-quarter sales and earnings. of the visual inspiration and soul for each element of this SATURDAY: Miami Fashion Week of the Americas campaign,” Kyle Andrew, vice (through May 10). It president of Gap marketing, said in a statement. “We hope our SUNDAY: FAME, AccessoriesTheShow and Moda STRETCHES COMING THIS WEEK STRETCHES Rock Color bus tour and sum- Manhattan, New York (through May 9). mer concerts will evoke the fun and freedom of summer while enabling us to connect with our customers on a personal level.” In previous interviews, Gap In Brief offi cials have said that its takes a few months before customers catch on to reworked offerings ● GROWING VINES: Two of Connecticut’s most enterprising and sales gains start materializing.