Forgotten Mediterranean: Living at the Crossroads of Southern Europe Tricia A
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feature story Picture yourself on warm, hazy days by the Mediterranean Sea, with the scent of pine resin in the air and a view of Hvar island in the distance. Forgotten Mediterranean: Living at the Crossroads of Southern Europe Tricia A. Mitchell tanding on a cliff, we spotted why I love Croatia. adds that Rijeka’s housing, food, cell- fishermen pulling in their evening Located in southeastern Europe along phone, and various other costs amount Scatch before sunset. The sky was the Adriatic Sea, Croatia has long been to less than what they were paying in Las fiery-red and deep tangerine, and a fresh a favorite destination for travelers from Vegas. breeze was beginning to sweep down neighboring countries. But it’s only been “There is no place in Las Vegas that I the mountains through the pine forest relatively recently that the country has could purchase a completely furnished around us. Sometimes, nature seems become a darling for tourists from outside home for €70,000 ($85,200),” Kathy says almost implausible. The scene could have the continent. As Croatia, a European of their 485-square-foot apartment, which been airbrushed onto the side of a hippie’s Union member, has gained interest among has sea views. For those looking to rent, creaking RV. My husband, Shawn, and I a wider range of vacationers, it’s also Kathy says it’s possible to rent an apart- were returning home after a beautiful day garnered attention from individuals who’d ment starting at €500 ($610) per month. hiking along the coast of Croatia. As if like to experience its wide-ranging charms Healthcare is also more affordable in to deliberately complete the picture, two for longer stays. Croatia. “Back in the States, I had some dolphins sprang from the water. Two people who are doing just that are [dental] implant work that needed to be We paused to take in the sunset a Kathy and Tim Litz. After contemplating repaired. What had cost me over $20,000 bit longer, while recounting everything a move abroad, the Nevada couple decided in Las Vegas cost me €8,000 ($9,740) here we had done that day. On a beach all by to plant roots in the coastal city of Rijeka in Rijeka,” she says. (Note that Croatia ourselves we’d enjoyed a picnic filled with three years ago. Kathy, a retired teacher, uses the kuna as its currency.) fresh produce and Croatian cheese. We’d says they “immediately loved” Rijeka’s Like Kathy and Tim, Shawn and I INTERNATIONAL LIVING INTERNATIONAL happened upon the ruins of a Roman villa. fresh green market, plentiful bakeries, city have become enamored with Croatia. In $ We’d hiked through untouched forest, bus transport, café culture, and having total, we’ve been exploring the country in then wandered through a winter wonder- their own butcher and egg vendor. seasonal bursts for eight years. We stay no land teeming with twinkling Christmas “We never need more than our pension more than 90 days at a time, and usually TRICIA A. MITCHELL lights and music. The day reminded me for our living expenses,” says Kathy, who visit during the off-season when lodging © INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !" costs are lower and there are Dubrovnik, Trogir, and hardly any tourists. HUNGARY SLOVENIA Zagreb Primošten—brim with Interestingly enough, we enchanting white-stone build- were initially drawn to Croatia ings that date back centuries. because it is not yet a mem- In contrast, contemporary ber of the Schengen Area—a Rijeka resorts and villas have sprung bloc of 26 European countries up in places like the Makarska which limits U.S. and Cana- Riviera in recent decades. dian tourists to stays of no GAŽ While the architecture of more than 90 days within a BOSNIA these coastal towns varies, the AND 180-day period. Jumping out CROATIA HERZEGOVINA aquamarine sea, rocky coast- of the Area for a period, to line, and dense pine forests re-set the clock, is a common offer a unifying backdrop. strategy with roving retirees Zadar Another common feature in Europe. During our first GALEŠNJAK in coastal towns is the riva, “Schengen hop,” we unexpect- a seaside promenade. These edly fell for Croatia’s beautiful Trogir walkways are often lined with Primošten Split landscapes and welcoming Omiš palm trees, colorful bougain- people. We also came to appre- ŠOLTA BRAČ villea, and fragrant rosemary ciate the country’s history, hedges. A pilgrimage to the ITALY HVAR gastronomy, nature, enter- VIS riva is a daily ritual for many tainment options, and sunny, residents, regardless of their maritime character. Adriatic age, and often, the family dog Croatia’s laws make it a Sea Dubrovnik is also on parade. The riva is challenging place for foreign- where locals come to stroll, ers to stay permanently. However, it has shaped island of Gaž, or the heart-shaped meet fishing boats as they glide in with the recently joined the growing list of coun- island of Galešnjak. day’s catch, and sip a cup of kava (black tries offering a digital nomad visa. Like Sara Dyson, a Texas native who coffee) while engaging in animated conver- many similar initiatives worldwide, the founded the website ExpatinCroatia.com, sation at their favorite café. visa is valid for one year only, and once has been living in the Croatian city of Split Croatia’s beaches and coves are excep- it’s run out, you’ll have to wait six months for more than eight years. She says that tionally beautiful, and 93 beaches have before you can qualify for a new one. It’s Bracˇ is her favorite island in the Dalmatia been awarded the European Union’s Blue worth considering though, and Melissa region. Flag status for cleanliness and ameni- Paul, interviewed below, is one expat “I have spent so much time there with ties. Swimming spots tend to be pebbled who has chosen that residence option. Or close friends and family who visit from or rocky, but you can find some sandy perhaps, like us, you’ll choose to explore abroad. It is the perfect day trip from locations. As you prepare to dive into the Croatia on a part-time basis. Either way, Split,” she says. “Our itinerary is always translucent water, you’ll want to be on there’s truly something special for every- the same. Ferry to Supetar, drive to Vidova the lookout for spiky sea urchins. While one. Gora at the summit to see the view of the they are a culinary delicacy, urchins can be islands of Hvar and Vis, walk along the unpleasant if you happen to encounter one IF YOU LOVE BEING BY THE SEA Bol promenade to Zlatni Rat, drink wine underfoot. on the beach in front of Stina winery, and Shawn and I have gone swimming as Croatia’s mainland has about 1,100 miles of dine at Ranc Restaurant before our ferry early as May and as late as October—well exquisite coastline, and its water is some back to Split.” outside the peak-tourist season. We’ve of the cleanest in Europe. The country Croatia’s national ferry line, Jadro- done so in a variety of settings: quiet coves is also home to more than 1,000 islands. linija, connects the mainland with the off the island of Brac,ˇ footsteps away from While only a fraction of them are inhab- islands year-round, and private catama- the enchanting walled city of Korcula,ˇ and ited, you could spend a lifetime exploring rans and boats provide additional connec- in a protected bay overlooked by Makar- those that are. tions during the tourist season. The main- ska’s imposing mountains. Each island has its own claim to fame. land cities of Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Split, and Bracˇ is home to Zlatni Rat, one of Croatia’s Zadar are some of the major ferry hubs. IF YOU ARE A GOURMAND most photographed beaches. Glitzy Hvar For a one-way Jadrolinija trip lasting two is the sunniest island—with a brilliant hours, expect to pay about 40 kuna ($6.50) Croatia’s regional cuisines are agree- 2,724 hours annually. And the blonde- per person. Note that fares are higher if ably distinct, thanks to its varied climate stone cliffs of Vis served as the backdrop you’re driving a car. zones, and the diverse peoples who have for the sequel to the film Mamma Mia. If Back on the mainland, the architec- influenced the country’s culinary tradi- you’re flying over the Adriatic Sea, you’ll ture of coastal communities ranges from tions over the centuries. In coastal regions, also appreciate the aerial views of the fish- historic to modern. Some cities—like you’ll find very different offerings to INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !" what’s traditional in the mountains. That’s Dalmatia produces a great variety of call gemišt. It is especially refreshing on a half the fun. red and white wines. They range from hot summer’s day. delightful white Pošip which originates on Farther to the east is the region of Istria: Gourmet Ingredients and Italian the island of Korcula,ˇ to Plavac Mali, a full- Slavonia—dubbed “Croatia’s breadbas- Flair bodied red wine that was the first Croatian ket.” Blanketed with golden sunflowers The region of Istria—often likened to grape to be awarded its own appellation. and fields of wheat, it’s also a land of Tuscany—prides itself on the high-quality Dalmatia is also home to the Neretva orchards and vineyards. Slavonia is where truffles, wine, and olive oil it produces.