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Picture yourself on warm, hazy days by the Mediterranean Sea, with the scent of pine resin in the air and a view of Hvar island in the distance. Forgotten Mediterranean: Living at the Crossroads of Southern Europe Tricia A. Mitchell

tanding on a cliff, we spotted why I love Croatia. adds that Rijeka’s housing, food, cell- fishermen pulling in their evening Located in southeastern Europe along phone, and various other costs amount Scatch before sunset. The sky was the Adriatic Sea, Croatia has long been to less than what they were paying in Las fiery-red and deep tangerine, and a fresh a favorite destination for travelers from Vegas. breeze was beginning to sweep down neighboring countries. But it’s only been “There is no place in Las Vegas that I the mountains through the pine forest relatively recently that the country has could purchase a completely furnished around us. Sometimes, nature seems become a darling for tourists from outside home for €70,000 ($85,200),” Kathy says almost implausible. The scene could have the continent. As Croatia, a European of their 485-square-foot apartment, which been airbrushed onto the side of a hippie’s Union member, has gained interest among has sea views. For those looking to rent, creaking RV. My husband, Shawn, and I a wider range of vacationers, it’s also Kathy says it’s possible to rent an apart- were returning home after a beautiful day garnered attention from individuals who’d ment starting at €500 ($610) per month. hiking along the coast of Croatia. As if like to experience its wide-ranging charms Healthcare is also more affordable in to deliberately complete the picture, two for longer stays. Croatia. “Back in the States, I had some dolphins sprang from the water. Two people who are doing just that are [dental] implant work that needed to be We paused to take in the sunset a Kathy and Tim Litz. After contemplating repaired. What had cost me over $20,000 bit longer, while recounting everything a move abroad, the Nevada couple decided in Las Vegas cost me €8,000 ($9,740) here we had done that day. On a beach all by to plant roots in the coastal city of Rijeka in Rijeka,” she says. (Note that Croatia ourselves we’d enjoyed a picnic filled with three years ago. Kathy, a retired teacher, uses the kuna as its currency.) fresh produce and Croatian cheese. We’d says they “immediately loved” Rijeka’s Like Kathy and Tim, Shawn and I INTERNATIONAL LIVING INTERNATIONAL happened upon the ruins of a Roman villa. fresh green market, plentiful bakeries, city have become enamored with Croatia. In $ We’d hiked through untouched forest, bus transport, café culture, and having total, we’ve been exploring the country in then wandered through a winter wonder- their own butcher and egg vendor. seasonal bursts for eight years. We stay no land teeming with twinkling Christmas “We never need more than our pension more than 90 days at a time, and usually TRICIA A. MITCHELL lights and music. The day reminded me for our living expenses,” says Kathy, who visit during the off-season when lodging © INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !" costs are lower and there are Dubrovnik, Trogir, and hardly any tourists. HUNGARY SLOVENIA Zagreb Primošten—brim with Interestingly enough, we enchanting white-stone build- were initially drawn to Croatia ings that date back centuries. because it is not yet a mem- In contrast, contemporary ber of the Schengen Area—a Rijeka resorts and villas have sprung bloc of 26 European countries up in places like the Makarska which limits U.S. and Cana- Riviera in recent decades. dian tourists to stays of no GAŽ While the architecture of more than 90 days within a BOSNIA these coastal towns varies, the AND 180-day period. Jumping out CROATIA HERZEGOVINA aquamarine sea, rocky coast- of the Area for a period, to line, and dense pine forests re-set the clock, is a common offer a unifying backdrop. strategy with roving retirees Zadar Another common feature in Europe. During our first GALEŠNJAK in coastal towns is the riva, “Schengen hop,” we unexpect- a seaside promenade. These edly fell for Croatia’s beautiful Trogir walkways are often lined with Primošten Split landscapes and welcoming Omiš palm trees, colorful bougain- people. We also came to appre- ŠOLTA BRAČ villea, and fragrant rosemary ciate the country’s history, hedges. A pilgrimage to the ITALY HVAR gastronomy, nature, enter- VIS riva is a daily ritual for many tainment options, and sunny, residents, regardless of their maritime character. Adriatic age, and often, the family dog Croatia’s laws make it a Sea Dubrovnik is also on parade. The riva is challenging place for foreign- where locals come to stroll, ers to stay permanently. However, it has shaped island of Gaž, or the heart-shaped meet fishing boats as they glide in with the recently joined the growing list of coun- island of Galešnjak. day’s catch, and sip a cup of kava (black tries offering a digital nomad visa. Like Sara Dyson, a Texas native who coffee) while engaging in animated conver- many similar initiatives worldwide, the founded the website ExpatinCroatia.com, sation at their favorite café. visa is valid for one year only, and once has been living in the Croatian city of Split Croatia’s beaches and coves are excep- it’s run out, you’ll have to wait six months for more than eight years. She says that tionally beautiful, and 93 beaches have before you can qualify for a new one. It’s Bracˇ is her favorite island in the Dalmatia been awarded the European Union’s Blue worth considering though, and Melissa region. Flag status for cleanliness and ameni- Paul, interviewed below, is one expat “I have spent so much time there with ties. Swimming spots tend to be pebbled who has chosen that residence option. Or close friends and family who visit from or rocky, but you can find some sandy perhaps, like us, you’ll choose to explore abroad. It is the perfect day trip from locations. As you prepare to dive into the Croatia on a part-time basis. Either way, Split,” she says. “Our itinerary is always translucent water, you’ll want to be on there’s truly something special for every- the same. Ferry to Supetar, drive to Vidova the lookout for spiky sea urchins. While one. Gora at the summit to see the view of the they are a culinary delicacy, urchins can be islands of Hvar and Vis, walk along the unpleasant if you happen to encounter one IF YOU LOVE BEING BY THE SEA Bol promenade to Zlatni Rat, drink wine underfoot. on the beach in front of Stina winery, and Shawn and I have gone swimming as Croatia’s mainland has about 1,100 miles of dine at Ranc Restaurant before our ferry early as May and as late as October—well exquisite coastline, and its water is some back to Split.” outside the peak-tourist season. We’ve of the cleanest in Europe. The country Croatia’s national ferry line, Jadro- done so in a variety of settings: quiet coves is also home to more than 1,000 islands. linija, connects the mainland with the off the island of Brac,ˇ footsteps away from While only a fraction of them are inhab- islands year-round, and private catama- the enchanting walled city of Korcula,ˇ and ited, you could spend a lifetime exploring rans and boats provide additional connec- in a protected bay overlooked by Makar- those that are. tions during the tourist season. The main- ska’s imposing mountains. Each island has its own claim to fame. land cities of Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Split, and Bracˇ is home to Zlatni Rat, one of Croatia’s Zadar are some of the major ferry hubs. IF YOU ARE A GOURMAND most photographed beaches. Glitzy Hvar For a one-way Jadrolinija trip lasting two is the sunniest island—with a brilliant hours, expect to pay about 40 kuna ($6.50) Croatia’s regional cuisines are agree- 2,724 hours annually. And the blonde- per person. Note that fares are higher if ably distinct, thanks to its varied climate stone cliffs of Vis served as the backdrop you’re driving a car. zones, and the diverse peoples who have for the sequel to the film Mamma Mia. If Back on the mainland, the architec- influenced the country’s culinary tradi- you’re flying over the Adriatic Sea, you’ll ture of coastal communities ranges from tions over the centuries. In coastal regions, also appreciate the aerial views of the fish- historic to modern. Some cities—like you’ll find very different offerings to INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !" what’s traditional in the mountains. That’s Dalmatia produces a great variety of call gemišt. It is especially refreshing on a half the fun. red and white wines. They range from hot summer’s day. delightful white Pošip which originates on Farther to the east is the region of Istria: Gourmet Ingredients and Italian the island of Korcula,ˇ to Plavac Mali, a full- Slavonia—dubbed “Croatia’s breadbas- Flair bodied red wine that was the first Croatian ket.” Blanketed with golden sunflowers The region of Istria—often likened to grape to be awarded its own appellation. and fields of wheat, it’s also a land of Tuscany—prides itself on the high-quality Dalmatia is also home to the Neretva orchards and vineyards. Slavonia is where truffles, wine, and olive oil it produces. Delta. This fertile valley has been dubbed you’ll find stewed meat and freshwater fish For six years in a row, Flos Olei, an Italian “Croatia’s California” because of the copi- dishes infused with paprika. guide that rates the world’s extra virgin ous amount of citrus fruit it produces. You’ll encounter some fantastic wine olive oil, has declared Istria to be the best Shawn and I love being in Dalmatia during in Slavonia, too. If you fancy wine tasting, olive oil region in the world. the wintertime, when fresh market stalls look no further than the Danube River Melissa Paul, who originally hails overflow with mountains of mandarins, town of Ilok, one of Slavonia’s best-known from California, via New York City, and clementines, and oranges from Neretva. winemaking spots. Ilok Cellars produces Philadelphia, has called Croatia home for You can buy a pound for about 35 cents. varietals such as riesling, chardonnay, and more than six years. Today, Melissa lives Dalmatian cuisine can be meat-heavy, graševina. Their traminac was served at in the Istrian hilltop town of Labin, in a as with traditional offerings like dry-cured Queen Elizabeth’s 1953 coronation. 500-year-old stone house. ham (pršut) or braised beef (pašticada). When it comes to olive oil, Ipša, Chia- However, there’s also lighter fare to be IF YOU ARE A HISTORY valon, and Negri are her preferred award- found such as grilled fish, cuttlefish, or ENTHUSIAST winning labels. “They run $125 to $165 per shrimp risotto (rižot), and side dishes like half-liter. But a whole liter can be had for garlic mashed potatoes and Swiss chard During the last few thousand years, the $75 to $100 from a smaller producer. Usu- (blitva s krumpirom). land that is now Croatia was influenced ally, the producers find you as you wander Expat Sara Dyson says that one of by many peoples, including the Illyrians, into a village, or you can ask at the first her favorite places to eat in Dalmatia is Greeks, Romans, Austro-Hungarians, house,” she explains. on the island of Brac.ˇ She Ragusans, Ottomans, Venetians, and According to Melissa, explains that the restaurant, Slavs. While not much physical evidence Istria’s white truffles are “We never need Kapetanovo Lozje, is actu- remains from the Illyrians, other civiliza- typically in season between more than our ally owned by a boat captain tions left behind ruins, fortresses, medi- September and January, and that the setting and eval churches, and fascinating cities with whereas black ones are pension for food are both memorable. multiple layers of history. harvested from January “This family restaurant until May. “My favorite dish living.” is located among olive trees Ancient Roman Relics with truffle shavings is and surrounded by grassy The most significant ancient Roman rel- scrambled eggs, called fritaja s tartufima. fields and vegetable patches. Tables are ics are in coastal Croatia. In the city of It’s simple, but you really taste the truffle,” scattered under the trees around the prop- Pula alone, there’s a fabulous 1st-century she adds. erty and all you can hear are the sounds of amphitheater, a temple dedicated to Istria’s regional wine varietals are nature. Their grilled lamb (raised on the Augustus, and an ornate carved triumphal white malvazija and red teran. “Fakin, island) and octopus salad are excellent,” arch. During the summer, Pula hosts sev- Arman, and Clai are my favorite labels,” she says. eral reenactments, ranging from gladiator Melissa says, and explains that, depending fights in the amphitheater to a market- upon the vintage, malvazija sells for $10 to The Interior: Hearty Fare with place in Pula’s ancient forum. $45 per bottle and teran sells for $15 to $55. Continental Flair South of Pula, you’ll find more spec- “Both can go up drastically for some of As you move away from the coast, the cui- tacular Roman ruins in Zadar, Split, and the oldest vintages. But you can also get a sine makes the most of slow-cooked stews, Solin. Zadar has a well-preserved Roman ‘local guy’s wine’ for a whole lot less,” she freshwater fish, and pickled ingredients. forum and a nearby museum that houses says. There’s also plenty of great wine to be had. artifacts unearthed in the region. Split, In central Croatia, we once spent a Croatia’s second-largest city, is home to Dalmatia: Wine, Fresh Seafood, and summer exploring the towns near the the 1,700-year-old retirement palace of Citrus Galore capital city of Zagreb. At outdoor markets, the emperor Diocletian. The palace ruins Like its coastal neighbor to the north, we were thrilled to find different products are beautiful in their own right, but what Dalmatia produces Mediterranean staples than what you’d see along the coast. Some makes them special is that they sit proudly such as olive oil and wine. But while Istria of my favorites were bucinoˇ ulje (a dark and right in the vibrant heart of Split’s Old is the champion when it comes to olive oil delectable pumpkin oil), buckwheat flour Town. accolades, only Dalmatia can claim to be for making dark bread, and prgica (a spicy A few miles away from Split is the the genetic homeland of the internation- cheese sculpted into a cone shape). Locals ancient city of Salona, which was one of ally renowned zinfandel grape (Crljenak in this part of Croatia often mix white the largest cities in the Roman Empire. Kaštelanski). wine with sparkling water, something they Much of this sprawling archaeological INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !" park has yet to be excavated, but archae- the densely forested island of Mljet. terracotta-roofed city and its neighboring ologists have uncovered an amphitheater, Though it is not a national park, islands, head to the top of neighboring theater, early Christian basilicas, and Biokovo Nature Park is a popular spot for Mount Srd,– via the cable car. burial sites with ornate sarcophagi. travelers soaking up the sun along the Not far from Dubrovnik is Ston, Makarska Riviera. A recent addition to which, like Dubrovnik, was once part of Dubrovnik, Formerly the Republic of this park is the Skywalk, a glass observa- the Republic of Ragusa. Ston’s ribbon- Ragusa tion deck stretching out over like defensive walls stretch You may have heard of Dubrovnik, Croa- sheer cliffs with command- for nearly four miles. The tia’s so-called “Pearl of the Adriatic.” This ing views of the Dalmatian “Drink wine on ruling Republic of Ragusa magnificent walled city began life as the coast. the beach in started building them in Republic of Ragusa, a maritime republic. Cities often incorporate the 14th century in order to An interesting details is that Ragusa was nature into their planning. front of Stina protect Ston’s sea-salt pans. one of the first countries to recognize Some feature riverside walk- Still known for its salt the independence of the United States. ways or trails on forested winery.” seven centuries later, Ston Dubrovnik has been a UNESCO World peninsulas overlooking the is also the place to go for Heritage site since 1979, and has gained sea. Hiking, cycling, and rock-climbing mussels and oysters. recent fame as a filming location for the opportunities exist throughout the coun- Another impressive fortification is the HBO series Game of Thrones. try. In Split’s urban forest park of Marjan, formidable Klis Fortress. This stronghold you can do all three activities in one day. sits atop a rocky ridge and straddles a Venetian Towns and Fortifications mountain pass connecting the inland to For several hundred years, coastal Croatia IF YOU ENJOY ENTERTAINMENT the coast. It makes a great day trip from was part of the Republic of Venice. The AND SIGHTSEEING Split. Venetians, a maritime power, fended off Croatia’s inland is home to many the Ottoman Turks for much of that time. Croatia is replete with things to see and stately castles. In the Zagorje region, This required them to build fortifications do. From incredible castles and fortresses you’ll find the 16th-century Veliki Tabor and strengthen existing ones. Two of to lively festivals and events, the country Castle, as well as Trakošcan,´ which them are now UNESCO World Heritage is certain to amaze. overlooks a tranquil lake. Not far away is sites, including Fort St. Nikola near the Varazdin Castle, which holds court in the town of Šibenik, and the fortified penin- Castles and Fortifications elegant baroque city of the same name. sula of Zadar. Dubrovnik is Croatia’s foremost tourist Protected by a drawbridge and adorned The Venetians also left behind a strong attraction. Enormous stone walls encir- with rounded towers, the castle is the architectural legacy in several towns. Two cle the city’s elegant stone buildings and stuff of fairy tales. of the prettiest are pastel-colored Rovinj, churches. One of the best ways to glimpse and tiny Trogir, which is filled with this architecture is to walk atop the walls. Events and Festivals delightful Renaissance and Romanesque Or, for a superb bird’s eye view of the Every August in the former pirate strong- architecture. hold of Omiš, actors on ships reenact a historical battle. With cannons and Austro-Hungarian Swagger pistols firing through crimson-red smoke, Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian the event is a feast for the senses. Another Empire from 1867 to 1918. In cities like special summer event in Omiš is the Zagreb, Varaždin, and Osijek, the empire annual klapa festival. Klapa is a type of tra- left behind handsome theaters and intri- ditional a cappella singing that originates cate baroque architecture reminiscent of along the coast. what you’d see in Vienna, Budapest, or In the wintertime, Croatia’s capital Prague. city of Zagreb plays host to a sweet Christ- mas market. The town’s squares are filled IF YOU CRAVE NATURE with an ice-skating rink and chalet-style huts selling handmade souvenirs, hot From rugged mountains to some of the mulled wine (kuhano vino), and peppery prettiest coastline in the world, Croatia is gingerbread cookies (paprenjaci). especially rich when it comes to biodi- In the hilltop Istrian town of Moto- versity—offering visitors the chance to vun, the visual arts are flourishing. Every spot an impressive 375 bird species. It’s summer, the walled community hosts a also home to eight national parks. For multi-day film festival, which specializes waterfalls and emerald-colored lakes, hit in independent productions. The town STOCK i

$!% up Plitvice and Krka National Parks. Other center is an attraction in its own right and highlights include the barren-but-beauti- Olive oil, tru#es, wine, and seafood: Rovinj is studded with art galleries, boutiques,

© ANOKA ful islands of Kornati National Park, and o$ers pure Mediterranean living. and restaurants. n INTERNATIONALLIVING.COM I MAY !"!# !"