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A Monumental Guide to Glendalough Christiaan Corlett

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A Monumental Guide to Glendalough Christiaan Corlett A Monumental Guide to Glendalough Christiaan Corlett A Monumental Guide to Glendalough Christiaan Corlett Text by Christiaan Corlett Images by Christiaan Corlett, courtesy of Culture Stock Design and layout by Christiaan Corlett Published by Coles Lane 2019 This publication is available to download at www.coleslane.com Coles Lane CONTENTS Introduction 1 Legends of St Kevin 3 Historical background of Glendalough 5 The Upper Lake 8 St Kevin’s Bed 9 Templenaskellig 10 Reefert Church 11 The stone crosses 12 Stone fort 12 The Main Monastery 13 The gatehouse 14 The Cathedral 15 The Priest’s House 16 St Kevin’s Cross 17 The round tower 18 St Kevin’s Church 19 St Ciaran’s Church 20 The Deer Stone 20 The satellite churches 21 St Mary’s Church 21 Trinity Church 22 St Saviour’s Church 23 Glendalough Mines 24 INTRODUCTION Glendalough takes its name from the Irish gleann dá locha, which translates as the ‘glen of the two lakes’. The steep-sided valley and the two lakes that give the valley its name were the product of a powerful glacier, one of many that were born in the heart of the Wicklow Moun- tains during the Ice Age. Over several thousand years these sheets of ice carved and shaped the mountains, creating many of the beautiful valleys, lakes and waterfalls that Wicklow is now famous for. At the end of the 6th century a monastery was founded in the valley by St Cóemgen, who is better known today by the English version of his name, Kevin. As we shall see, St Kevin was renowned for his love of animals and plants, and he would probably very pleased to see that today much of Glendalough forms part of the Wicklow Mountains Nation- al Park, ensuring the protection of the animals and plants that dwell in the valley. In time St Kevin’s monastery would become one of the greatest monasteries of early Christian Ireland. The archaeological remains of this monastery have been in state ownership since 1875, when the Office of Public Works began a programme of conservation of many of the ruined churches that were in danger of collapse. St Kevin’s monastery of Glendalough is today considered one of the premier National Monuments in the country. 1 Map of the main monuments in the valley of Glendalough 2 LEGENDS OF ST KEVIN The great monastery at Glendalough is believed to have been founded by St Kevin at the end of the 6th century. We know very little about St Kevin, except that his family belonged to a ruling dynasty in Leinster (the east of Ireland). His name in Irish, Cóemgen, reputedly derived from cáem (fair) and gein (birth). We don’t know when Kevin was born, and there is confusion about when he died; one source tells us that he died at the unlikely age of 120 years in 618, while another gives the year of his death as 622. Everything that was documented about St Kevin was written centuries after he died. Some of these stories are preserved in the Latin Life of St Kevin, which was compiled in the late 12th century, but appears to incorporate stories that are much older. This medieval gilded wooden statue from Glendalough represents a bearded male figure. The left hand holds a psalter, while the right hand is clenched and originally appears to have held something. The man is wearing a cloak and a sandal on his remaining foot. The identity of the figure is not known, though it is very tempting to suggest that it represents St Kevin. 3 The Lives of St Kevin tell us that after he took his holy orders he was instructed by an angel to go into the deserted glen of Glendalough. Here he spent his formative years as a young monk living in solitude, living on nettles and sorrels, and sleeping on bare stones on the edge of the Upper Lake. The ancient stories portray a very religious man who had a very deep love for his natural surroundings and the animals that lived in the valley. One of the most famous stories concerns St Kevin and a blackbird. It is said that during lent the saint stood in a cross vigil for six weeks; A blackbird perched on the saint’s hand, and built a nest (remaining there) till she hatched her young. We are told that after seven years in isolation, an angel from God had to spend a considerable time persuading Kevin to leave his retreat at the Upper Lake in order to found the monastery in the Lower Valley. In one instance he expresses concern that the valley of Glendalough would not be capable of providing enough food for a great monastery without God’s help. The angel replied that many thousands shall dwell there prosperously and abundantly, the Lord preparing for them all earthly necessaries. … For, that place shall be sacred and venerable; kings and the powerful ones of Ireland shall honour it with a religious veneration, on thy account. It shall be enriched with lands, gold and silver, precious gems and silken garments, with gifts from be- yond the sea, as with regal treasures and abundance. A great city shall spring up. Not content with securing even this promise from God, Kevin went further and sought assur- ances that anyone who would be buried at Glendalough would receive special treatment. The angel said Everyone, however, who shall die on Friday and be buried on a Saturday under the mould of Kevin, shall receive remission for his soul. This was a very powerful bequest and as a result of this we are told that Glendalough became famous as one of the four chief cemeteries in all of Ireland. Not surprisingly, Glendalough has remained a popular burial place throughout the centuries. This early cross-inscribed slab reflects the popularity of Glendalough as a burial ground. It once marked the grave of an ecclesiastic and was more recently reused as a headstone. 4 HISTORY OF GLENDALOUGH The folklore that surrounds St Kevin is very colourful and often quite ancient. Unfortunately, when it comes to firm history the facts are thin on the ground. We don’t know when Kevin was born or when he founded the monastery at Glendalough, except that it was most likely towards the end of the 6th century. The ancient annals tell us that he died between 618 and 622. Other early historical sources imply that his father Caemlug was connected to the Dal Messin Corb, who were a collection of families that ruled much of Leinster during the 5th and 6th centuries. While Glendalough is frequently referred to as a monastery, it is not true to say that it served as a monastery in the same way as later medieval or modern examples. During the earliest centu- ries of Christianity in Ireland, there were no formal parishes or dioceses; these only developed during the 11th and 12th centuries. Prior to this, churches such as Glendalough served a number of different ecclesiastical roles. In the centuries after St Kevin the names of many of the early abbots and early bishops of Glendalough are recorded in the annals. There seems little doubt that Glendalough had multiple ecclesiastical functions. From a very early stage the religious community here was keen to elevate the monastery here by comparing it with Rome. One of the Lives of Kevin compared Glendalough to A gracious Rome, city of the angels, western Europe’s Rome. While the connection between the centre of medieval Christianity at Rome and Glendalough in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains may seem unlikely, this was legitimised in one of the Lives of Kevin in the following way: Kevin went to the court of Rome, And brought back with him the wonderous earth, And received openly from the pope Right of pilgrimage and excellent honour. Great is the pilgrimage of Kevin. If men should perform it aright; To go seven times to his fair is the same As to go once to Rome. This association with Rome had the dual effect of raising Glendalough’s popularity as both a place of burial and pilgrimage. St Kevin’s Church and St Mary’s Church at the Lower Valley. 5 5 In 836 Glendalough was one of a number of prominent churches plundered by the Vikings, pre- sumably in search of the treasures of the monastery. In the case of Glendalough it is specifically mentioned that the dertach was burnt. This Irish word literally translates as ‘oak house’ and was used to describe a wooden church. In all probability, the churches at Glendalough at this time were all wooden buildings. In 1020 it is recorded that Glendalough was once again burned with its oratories, implying that several of the churches in the valley were severely damaged by fire. No reason for the fire is documented, however, it is quite certain that it wasn’t accidental. It may also have been the motivation for the construction of the first stone churches at Glendalough. At the end of the 11th century there was a sudden increase in church building at Glendalough. It has been suggested that many of the churches were constructed at this time by Muirchert- ach Ua Briain, king of Munster (southern Ireland), in order to establish Glendalough as a fully equipped ecclesiastical rival to Dublin, which had ambitions to be at the head of a new diocesan church system in Ireland. Muirchertach Ua Briain had pretentions of becoming high-king of all Ireland and feared that his own political position would be undermined if Dublin succeeded in its ambitions.
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