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The Japan Forum Newsletter No. 31 December 2003 The Japan Forum Newsletter No.31 December 2003

Japanese Culture Now was once considered a luxury reserved for special occasions. What transformed that image of this now- popular was the introduction of kaitenzushi ( bars) in the city of Higashi Osaka in 1958. に ほん かいてん ずし Kaitenzushi’s attractions are endless: you do not have to wait for your to be served, the price of each 日本のファーストフード その3: 回転寿司 entrée—determined by the type of plate on which it appears—can be ascertained at a glance, it’s enjoyable either alone or out as a family; it is low-priced, tastes good, can be eaten whenever the mood strikes, and so on. Japanese Fast Part 3—Kaitenzushi There are said to be almost 5,000 kaitenzushi throughout Japan. Overseas, too, kaitenzushi is now a familiar feature of the dining landscape and has been adapted to suit a variety of locales worldwide, includ- ing New York, Sydney,Beijing, Seoul, Paris, and London.

Photos: Hongo Jin

えび まぐろ サラダロール へいろく ずし ebi maguro salad roll 平禄寿司 ほたて (shrimp) (tuna) The Heiroku Sushi in Omote- Placed at each seat around the kaiten- hotate (scallops) sando, central Tokyo. Patrons include zushi counter is an oshibori (a moist many non-Japanese as well. towlette for cleaning one’s hands), a 鉄火巻き Website ➲ http://www.heiroku.com/ small dish for dipping the sushi in soy tekka-maki sauce, a cruet of , tsume (a (tuna roll) sweet and tangy sauce to daub on items that have a plain flavor, like In recent years, the types of sushi offered at anago, or conger eel), disposable kaitenzushi outlets have increased, the qual- wooden , a , ity has risen markedly, and many shops (thinly sliced gingerroot pickled in うな ぎ now emphasize the quality of their sushi sweet vinegar), etc. unagi entrées as a selling point. New types of (eel) sushi that were first developed overseas are かんぱち also popular in Japan, such as the California kampachi roll, which uses avocados. (amberjack)

Here the long conveyor belt carrying plates of sushi can be seen revolving in the cen- ter of the restaurant. The customers are seated on the outer periphery of the belt. From the entrées that pass before them, customers select and eat their favorite dishes. かっぱ巻き kappa-maki いくら たまご カルフォル ニア ロール サーモン Each customer pours his or her own (cucumber roll) ikura tamago salmon イカ . Customers take a tea cup from the (salmon roe) (thick omlette) ika ledge over the counter and put a tea (squid) As they finish a sushi entrée, bag of Japanese in it. Hot customers stack the used dishes as water fills the cup when it is pressed shown. When it comes time to pay, the onto the black plunger directly be- cashier counts the number and type of neath the spigot in front of each seat. plates in the stack to calculate the bill.

The invention of the conveyor belt that carries the plates of Prices differ depending on the type of Salads, deserts (such as cake sushi was inspired by the conveyor belts used in beer factories. sushi dish. Prices vary from one shop to and vanilla custard pudding), To allow the belt to turn corners easily, the conveyor is made another, but one plate usually runs be- yogurt , and other food of half-moon-shaped segments. It is difficult to eat if the speed tween 100 and 500 yen. The more expen- items are offered. Customers at which the sushi passes in front of you is too fast or too slow; sive dishes are placed on plates of a can also request specific kinds one study found that six seconds is the optimum time for each different color or pattern. Since customers of sushi from the chefs behind plate to pass by a customer. In most kaitenzushi restaurants, the can tell at a glance how much they have the counter and order side conveyor circles clockwise, apparently to make it easier for eaten, they can easily check whether they dishes, such as fish-based or mostly right-handed customers to remove plates. are within their budget. crab-stock soup.

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