conditions could be expected to make it. Tais is the sort of thing:— CROSSING THE BLUE “ Struck our Tent3 and Droceeded N by W 1-16. NW 1-16, NNW NW %, W 1-16, MOUNTAINS. ^ WSW 34. SSW V i, S by E 14, S by W H. ssw %. s %, w i mile, wsw u , ssw ♦ n w A NEGLECTED JOURNAL. That is part of the entry for May 24, giving the track they made from the lagoon near Wentworth Falls railway station to another (By ARTHUR JOSE.) swamp near Leura; and anyone who has fol­ lowed the old (Cox’s) road in that vicinity will A hundred and eight years ago to-day recognise the twists and turns of it. The dis­ Gregory Blaxland and his two friends stood tances, of course, are not exact—Lawson’s six­ on the clifl-edge at and saw the teenths of a mile are nearer SO yards than 110. good grass lands of Hartley Vale. No more But Blaxland gives the explanation; “The dis­ welcome or more important discovery was ever tance was computed by time, the rate being es­ made in . And the discoverers knew timated at about two miles per hour," so that it—tut it appealed to each of them in a differ' a sixteenth meant about two minutes’ walk.', ent light. To Blaxland, the sheep-farmer, it Considering the rough method of computation, was a find of the approach to accuracy is remarkable. “forest or grass land sufficient in extent to A LOST M A P . s-ipport the stock of the colony for the next Bladen, es has been said, saw the value o'. thirty years.” this record, and had it plotted to scale On ai' Wentworth was chieSy interested in the ofacial map of the district. (Curiously enough, geography and botany of the new district. Law­ Frank Blaxland, a descendant of the explorer, son’s military training made him see was a draftsman in the Lands Office at this "the best-watered Country of any I have time, and to him the plotting was entrusted.) seen in this Colony . . . and no diffi­ The process, as Bladen described it to me, was culty in making a good Road to it; and, this; Lawson’s distances and directions were take if in a Political point of view, tf in set. out on a blank sheet of tracing paper, using: case of an Invasion it will be a safe Re­ tho scale of the official map—the distance be­ treat for the Inha’oitance with their Familys tween his extreme points was thus discovered and Stock. For this part of the Country is to be notably greater than that shown on the so formed by Nature that a few men. would map—arid his measurements were then ’ be able to defend the passes against a large proportionally, so as to make the distance* body.’* between extremes identical. Transferred to the map, the track thus obtained was found to In 1S13, we must remember, the news of Napo­ coincide very closely with the long winding leon's disaster in Russia had not yet reached ridge between the Grose and the Cox, in ; he war, still the dreaded accordance with the design formulated by enemy, and a raid by his ships on was land before the expedition started. well within the bounds of possibility. It is Where is that map now? It is nearly 1C probable, too. that Perom’s report of 1S02— years since I saw it. and I can find no one wUc "My opinion, and that of all those among has seen it since. It was made, anparently. it us who have more particularly concerned IMS. to accomtv“ nv a report on the in s e r tio n themselves with the organisation of this (as ungrammatical as it was incorrect) ■ iha' colony, is that it should be destroyed as a former Minister for Lands had attached quickly as possible” — the “Exi'lorers’ Tree’’ bevond Katoomba: b and Napoleon's 1S10 order for a raid on Port there is no trace of it in these papers ta-d A cortv was se™* t.n F’-wnMc Suttor fo Jackson were well known to the British Gov­ ernment, and therefore to Macquarie and his transmission to Mr. C. R. Blaxland, and ths mav 511 he in existence. Rot srvhow. til chief advisers. nrocegff' can 'be renewed. and shnnld he. However, the journey and its results have ( son’s tonmal is in the Mitchell L 'h rarv e: been described and re-described frequently of thfi trustees mietit well ar~nnero to have 1 late years, and need not be again narrated ; here. What docs seem to need re-stating is the ’ erTi+ed nnd used «jrain. Blazon used it. existence of an authoritative document on the «etvlc the em'oret-s- track, on-e for all. In- subject by which practically all still disputed - *«pd. *h« real need is of an edition eolla points can be settled onee for all. This is the t'nrA« ioyrnals. Lawson’s journal of the expedition, from which Meanwhile we m»v note how unmistakably t has been taken the quotation earlier in this Lawson entries indicstp the dav to dav article. It is not a new find, but merely a> ; tiors of the exolorers’ oamn, supplementing neglected one. G. B. Barton read it nearly 40 explaining Blaxland’s vaguer phrases. Bla land. for instance, tells that, o f’-er c.lirolvner years ago, but made no particular use of it. Frank Bladen—whose knowledge of early Aua- the big hill to King’? Tableland, the." struck off alone the ridge of it for a mile and n ha f 1 tralian history was unsurpassed—read it 20 years ago, and saw its special value, and did bafore they were 'topped hy the cliffs. But he use it; but his results have disappeared, and docs not make clear—and Lawson does—lhal no one since seems to have paid it any great nesrlv half their journey on the following (the 23rd) was a mere retracing of their stopf attention. Yet it is in its way fin'll. For it is not a narrative like Blaxland’s, full of inter- j to the mlin ridge: «nd Blaxlands somewhat esting but vague observations; it is a detailed doiudou* periods (written up lator in the “gi record of distances and directions, mile by English” of the time) are not half t o eemyn mile, point by po-int, from the Nepean to the ing as the cla,iu Lawson talk:- Cox, as accurate es anyone working in rugged “Mr. Blaxland, Wentworth and Self >?ft ^forest country_ under^ exceptionally difficult our Camp with a determination to get-''. -V eome part of this broken land, but ftunff it impracticable, in some clacts f; JOURNAL

O F A

TOUR OF DISCOVERY

ACROSS

THE BLUE MOUNTAINS,

N E W SOUTH WALES,

IN TH E Y E A R 1813,

1 B Y

GREGORY BLAXLAND,

W I T H ,

REFERENCES AND EXPLANATORY NOTES,

M APS, ETC.

BY

FRANK WALKER

(President Australian Historical Society).

COPYRIGHT. 1913

"The Conquest of the Mountains"

A wondrous feat within this record stands "A tale of conquest of our fertile lands” Performed "by men of courage hold Who in the far-off halycon days of old Boldly attacked,and carried hy assault Those fastnesses,which called a halt To many an early plan forlorn Achieved hy men of equal courage horn. They won. But in their steps on hill and plain, Stalked danger and disease-the twain. But never heeding,hopefully they went All with fatigue and cruel hardship spent. Until upon the thirty-first of May Mount Blaxland seemed to "block jrhe way. Then up its slopes their weary footsteps trend, And on its summit found their journeyTs end. 1913. F.Walker. , *^AASv**+aus6£as .

Compass Bearings of Blaxland,Lawson & Wentworth’ s Track across the Mountains in 1 8 1 3 . ( From Li eu t. Laws on ’ s Journal) lay 12 th .1913 S.%. S.W.%. W.S.W.%. W.%.W.N.W.3g.N.by W.%.N.N.W.%. Encamped at head of g u lly . ( 2% m iles)

-May 13 th . W.%. N.W.%. W.by S.%. N.W.3*. S.E 3g. H.N.W .^.E.E.%. N.W.^. (3% m ile s)

-a.y 14th. Prospecting

-ay 15th. d itto

ay 16 t h. Hesting.

.. ay 1 7 th . W.S.W.Jg. W.3g. N.W.%. W.N.Wjjj. W.3g. N.N.W.%. W.by N.%. S.Wjg. W.fc. W.^.SW.^. W.Jg. S .E .^ . W.S.W.%. S.W.2*. S.S.W .%. W.S.W.%. S.W.%. S.%. S.W.%. W.%. S.S.W.%. W .f.W .3*. ( 7^ m iles)

-.'lay 16th . Prospecting.

-'-ay 19th. W.S.W.3*. W .& W.by SJ4 . ( 1^4 miles) Narrow Pass met with here (Linden). "Here to found a large heap of stones piled up.no doubt i t was done by Dr Bass some years ago,as he rtnt in this direction,and did pile a heap of stow at the end of his journey" (=Caley’ s Repilse") Encamped at head of small Lagoon. I May 20th . S.E.%. S.L. S.S. S.S.W.C%. W.by S .1 / 8m. W .1 / 8M. N.W.%. S.W.%. W.H.W.1/8. N.N.W.1/8. N.Wjg. N.W.by W.1~4 . IT.F.W.^. W.N.W.%. ( 4% miles) Encamped at head of small lagoon.

■■^ay 2 1 s t . N.W.by NW.%. N.W.%. N.N.W.%. WN.W.by W.fc. W.S.W.1%. ( 4?4 m iles) Encamped at head of small swamp.

^ay 22nd. W.S.W.1 . S.W.1/8. N.W.by W.1/8. W.1 / 8 . N.l/8 . S.W.by W.l/8m N.W.by W .1 / 8m S.W.by W.%. WSW.t/8 . N.W.I/8 . 1 S.W.%.W. 1 / 16 . S.W.bjvW.1/8. W.14 . S.l. S.W.V. ( 5% & 3 /1 6th ?.m iles) Reached highest point of land. (Blackheath) Prosjpect H ill.E .G rose Head.,Hat Hill. SE.by E.

^ .Y 23rd. N .E .’r. N.I. N.N.W.%. N.l/8m N.W.%. W.%. W.N.W.};;. N.N.W.%. En­ camped at head of large Lagoon. (3 5/8 milles)

May 24th. N.by W.1/16. NW.1/16. NNW.%. m.%. N.1/16. WSW.1^. SSW.I^. S.by E .1^. SSW.1/8m S,}<. W.1 . SSW.1^. NW.V. Encamped near large •^agoon. (3?4 & 3 / l 6ths m iles)

May 25th. W .by W.1/8- SW.1/16. W.by N 2.1 It. SSW.3*. SSW.V. WS7.^. WSWSW.’4 . NW by W.?£. W.%. NHW.1/8. SW.by W.%. HW.Jg. N .^. NE/-4. ( 4 . 3 / l 6ths m iles) Encamped at head of swamp.

May 26t h . WSW.1 /1 6 . NW.l*. NNE.%. NW.Jfe. N.by N.1-^. NW.%. NNW.%. N.%. N”W.1/16. N* 1 / 8 . N .^. (2k, miles)

May 2 7 t h . F.V.by N.1/16. N.j/8 . NNE N.1 / 1 6 . NW.1 / 1 6 . NE.1/16. NNE.}{:. ) (Crossed a large common) N.%. OTW.%. S.W.1/8:. 1 KT.7.V. TOW. 1/8 UNW.!^. N.J*. NE.1/8. (4.1/8 m iles) Encaitped at head of Lagoon.

May 28t h . NW.1 / 8m N.2*. WSW.^4. N .1 / 1 6 . WKW.J4 . NW.%. N^.by N.fc. W.%. NW.%. NNE.1/16. WNW.1/8. W.1/8. (arriv a l at Mt York) (4% miles)

May 29th . NE.%. NNW.1%. {]% miles) encamped by riv

May 30th Resting in camp.

May 313 t , SW.3. W.2. UW.Jj. NNESSW.i/. (6 m iles) Note: Mt Blaxland was their furthest point.

5 miles explored further west,but no.notes taken.

April,1935 • Copied bjiP.Walker.

!

WILLIAM CHARLES WENTWORTH

^ ^ o ffc-a. t/e-'rVctS Oyily Opa-ft / yA*h /e-rt-cc. a »vy6 0~t*J &7ctv~7a*0 /?-l3

& orn a t y*or fo lk I~,!ofD _ tj< j £. _

VETERAN HALL, PROSPECT. This old building, situated on the lands adjoining Prospect Reservoir, was formerly the home of the Lawson family, and so has historic interest, — 1:1——“ —"— *—*------I 1 / »/ C &X. A. A , r. ( f f e > t 6 yc o *t'.

77rt rrtuSi, c* r j s*iar^Cs /£

-/jlcjx/a*r3 s Z-a.yeo". A: Ls /<±+i 4 roo <

P / 4 /jrj J A 5 * * d TO JOHN OX LEY PARKER, Esq., OF CHELMSFORD, ESSEX.

London, February io, 1823.

Dear Sir,—Feelings of gratitude for your kind attention to me in the early part of life liave induced me to dedi­ cate to you the following short Journal of my passage over the Blue Mountains, in the colony of New South Wales, under the persuasion that it will afford you pleasure at all times to hear that any of your family have been instru­ mental in promoting the prosperity of any country in which they may reside, however distant that country may be from the immediate seat of our Govern­ ment. Since my return to England many of my friends have expressed a wish to peruse my Journal. To meet their re­ quest in the only practicable or satis­ factory manner, I have consented to its being printed. Devoid as it is of any higher pretensions than belong to it as a plain unvarnished statement, it may not be deemed wholly uninteresting, I*

10

H Blaxland did not exaggerate when it is considered what important when he re­ ferred ito the alterations the result of the expedition “ important al­ terations” re­ has produced in the immediate interests sulting from his expedition, and he cleverly and prosperity of the colony. This sums up the matter in his appears in nothing more decidedly reference to the “ changing than the unlimited pasturage already of the aspect of the colony” afforded to the very fine flocks of into a “ rich and extensive continent.” merino sheep, as well as the extensive field opened for the exertions of the present, as well as future, generations. It has changed the aspect of the colony, from a confined insulated tract of land, to a rich and extensive continent. II This expedition, which has proved so completely successful, resulted from two previous attempts. One of these was made by water, by His Excellency the Governor, in person, whom I ac­ companied. We ascended the River Hawkesbury, or Nepean, from above Emu Island, to the mouth of the Warra- gomby,* or Great Western River, where it emerges from the mountains, and joins itself to that river, from its mouth. We proceeded as far as it was navigable by a small boat, which is only a few miles further. It was found to lose itself at different places, almost entirely underneath and between im­ mense blocks of stones, being confined on each side by perpendicular cliffs of

* This river is now known as the Warragamba. / w m /

/u^rCc^t? / y £ ^ /< 4 }y a £ ^^ccvy^nVLt^ f^L^M^yixa(,

f y y ? /C . / ^ - SVL_ ^%/^-^\y*-r~^y f SV*-*y /i - .

/ ^ /h h rY t*-*- #(jLsL+rirZ) Kj A y w r ? r ^ s < frt^e/Ur, ra.Jfcx& r*

Photo. H. Phillips.

A VIEW OF THE STEEP AND RUGGED BLUE MOUNTAINS NEAR KATOOMBA.

Near Narrow Neck, Katoomba.

Note.—This view is typical of the rugged nature of the country which had to be traversed by the First Mountain Explorers. s ' i -L ~

12 the same kind of stone, which some­ times rose as high as the tops of the mountains, through which it appears to have forced, or worn its way, with the assistance, probably, of an earthquake or some other great convulsion of nature. The other expedition was undertaken by myself, attended by three European servants and two natives, with a horse to carry provisions and other neces­ saries. We travelled on the left, or south bank of the western river, and found no impediment, by keeping in the cow pastures, and crossing the dif­ ferent streams of water before they enter the rocks and precipices close to the river. We were unable, however, to penetrate westward, finding our­ selves turned eastward towards the coast. We returned sooner than I in­ tended, owing to one man being taken ill. The natives proved but of little use, which determined me not to take them again on my next distant expedi­ tion. Very little information can be obtained from any tribe out of its own district, which is seldom more than about thirty miles square. This jour­ ney confirmed me in the opinion, that it was practicable to find a passage

over the mountains, and I resolved at some future period to attempt it, by endeavouring to cross the river, and reach the high land on its northern bank by the ridge which appeared to run westward, between the Warragom- by and the River Grose. I concluded, that if no more difficulties were found in travelling than had been experi­ enced on the other side, we must be able to advance westward towards the interior of the country, and have a fair chance of passing the mountains. On inquiry I found a person who had been accustomed to hunt the kangaroo in the f This is proof mountains in the direction I wished to positive that Blaxland origi­ go, and he undertook to take the horses nal ed the ex­ pedition, and to the top of the first ridge. Soon after, became the leader, Went­ w orth and I mentioned the circumstance to His Lawson being associated with Excellency the Governor, who thought him. The ages of the explorers it reasonable, and expressed a wish at this time were: Blaxland 35, Wentworth that I should make the attempt.!! Hav­ 19, Lawson 38. ing made every requisite preparation, I The “ plan” de­ vised was applied to the two gentlemen who ac­ destined to prove success­ companied me, to .join in the expedi­ ful, and origi­ nated with tion, and was fortunate in obtaining Blaxland. He had evidently pondered the their consent. Before we set out we matter, after his two previous laid down the plan to be pursued, and abortive at­ tempts, and the course to be attempted, namely, to had taken careful notes ascend the ridge before mentioned, tak­ of the general appearance of ing the streams of water on the left, this portion of the country. . u ,

14

1 This is inter­ esting, as it which appeared to empty themselves shows that Cox’s road fol­ into the Warragomby, as our guide; lowed very closely on being careful not to cross any of them, Blaxland’s tracks, with the single ex­ but to go round their sources, so as to ception of the ascent of the be certain of keeping between them and firsit range. (This in refer­ the streams that emptied themselves ence to the road made by into the River Grose. William Cox under Governor To these gentlemen I have to express Macquarie’s direction.) “ Mount Blax­ my thanks for their company, and to land.” —This has been iden­ acknowledge that without their assist­ tified as that isolated sugar ance I should have had but little chance loaf on the right bank of of success. the Cox 'River, distant about 7 m iles S.W . The road which has since been made, from Mount York. The deviates but a few rods in some places mountain is very little from the line cleared of the small trees changed at the present day (1913), and no and bushes and marked by us.1I Nor doubt pre­ sented much does it appear likely that any other line the same ap­ pearance to of road will ever be discovered than at Blaxland. Blax­ land is hardly the difficult and narrow passes that we correct in as­ cribing the naming of this were fortunate to discover; by improv­ mountain to Governor Mac­ ing which, a good carriage road has now quarie. The name was been made across the mountains. bestowed upon it by G. W. Evans, subse­ Mount York is the western summit of quently con­ firmed by the mountains; the Yale of Clwydd the Governor Mac­ quarie, on ar­ first valley at their foot; from which a rival at ithe terminal point of Blaxland’s mountain (afterwards named Mount expedition, which was at Blaxland by His Excellency Governor Mount Blax­ land. Two Macquarie) is about eight miles distant other smaller conical shaped and which terminated our journey. bills on the opposite sides of the stream I remain, dear Sir, most respectfully, were named Wentworth Your affectionate nephew, and Lawson’s Sugar Loaves respectively, GREGORY BLAXLAND. by Evans.

w \?/*'ZTdjffijwes)

''O^Ddy 10m iles) 'MrYork '/‘ /6 * $ /9*/)ays(7%m iles) i

- TORIA 0 •/6*Djy(234m iles) //S7*D ay[3/ 2 m iles) fa * Day(46 miles) 0 M rBanks k a T O O M B ^ j ^ D ay (3/ ? m i/es) yf0L/n/Je§ ) . LAWSON]yi*fa y(4 '”'/es)

" //bHDayfsm iles) liNOEN+^ lfy® Repu/Sc" (/8miles) - th y * y (* » ./.i The Barrier *»' V* 0dy(//2 m iles) v7M D ay(/% m iJes)

/ \ M& 6 ^Odysf?miles) / ^ fSm iles) - 3 rtjDdy(3m/!es) Grose fP^T 'T'/itT ' ^ u 0dy(3% m iles) 7o/> o ffir s t f?idge \ $ Day{2miles) foofofFirst ffnfge E1711* ^o| a - 1

BLAXLAND’S ROUTE ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS IN 1813. The present Great Western Road is inserted to show how closely it has followed Blaxland' track in its general direction. -7

i 6

BLAXLAND’S JOURNAL.

f “ Blaxland’s Farm ” was On Tuesday, May 11, 1813, Mr. situa'ted on the left bank of Gregory Blaxland, Mr. William Went­ South Creek, about 3 miles worth, and Lieutenant Lawson, at­ from the pre­ sent township o f St. Marys. tended by four servants, with five dogs, The allotment is shown on and four horses laden with provisions, an early map of the district ammunition, and other necessaries, left published in 1808. Mr. Blaxland’s farm at South Creek,IT *“ Emu Island” does not exist for the purpose of endeavouring to at the present day, but origi­ effect a passage over the Blue Moun­ nally it occu­ pied that semi­ tains, between the Western River and circular bend of the river the River Grose. They crossed the about 1 mile north from the railway Nepean, or Hawkesburv River, at the bridge. Here the stream was ford, on to Emu Island,* at four o ’clock shallow enough to permit o f an p.m., and having proceeded, according easy crossing. to their calculation, two miles in a Approaching the river from south-west direction, through forest a northerly direction ('their track from the land and good pasture, encamped at five farm would lie in a north­ o ’clock at the foot of the first ridge. westerly direc­ tion), they con­ The distance travelled on this and ou tinued on a diagonal course S.W ., and so the subsequent days was computed by approached the first range. time, the rate being estimated at about

Day. Date. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

1 M ay 11 2 S .W . to W.N.W. 3 |

Blaxland’s Farm was known as "Lee Holme",and consisted of 2000acres.To reach„it.follow Mamre Road from St Mary*^ Railway station,due south.,cross­ ing Western road,and continue on throf "Mamre" ,Rev.W.Marsden's Farm, on to Erskine creek,where there is a post office. The farm was on the western hank of South Creek,opposite Erskine creek. Blaxland and party proceeded from the farm on May 11th, 1813,in a north-westerly direction,across ; "Regentville",crossing.the river at Emu Island.

(per W.S.Freame,Westmead) 32

»Th*fS far they mere g^companied by two

other gentlemen:- ,

floteY.The names of both th^fie gentle men have not \peen recorded,but,one of them is believed to have been M*iar Mercer,of "Mercer s vale" V^awkesbury.y-River, who lies buried on his oldxestate in this locality. Major Mercer'.first visited N.S.W. in 1770,with uaptainH

1 * 33

17 two miles per hour. Thus far they were accompanied by two other gentle- i xam es not .i ...... * . M,.-, x i i . ■ r? i I., recorded. ^ (/) / Je fi+ iJ /fC#J Ou the following morning (May 12), as soon as the heavy dew was off, which was about nine'a.m., they pro­ ceeded to ascend the ridge at the foot of which they had camped the preced­ ing evening. Here they found a large lagoon of good water, full of very coarse rushes.* The high land of Grose. “ la ^ o n ” 0 mentioned is Head appeared before them at about seven miles distance, bearing north by b?^kttat’on' east. They proceeded this day about »n',t™,d.re’ three miles and a quarter, in a direc- bearing 7 given of Grose tion varying from south-west to west- S S m iles north-west; but, for a third of the way, dently from a due west. The land was covered with the lagoon, can be scrubby brush-wood, very thick in ^ netddaaVhe places, with some trees of ordinary o f i f a x i a n X timber,, . 1 which much l * incommoded -i-ij-i* the trackidentified, thus horses. The greater part of the way they had deep 1’ocky gullies on each the general side of their track, and the ridge they otYhTcountry ~ in this locality followed was very crooked and intri- the present cate. In the evening they encamped

Day. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Rem arks.

1 I 2 M ay 12 33 S.W . to W .N.W . i W . 18 at the head of a deep gully, which they had. to descend for water; they found but just enough for the night, con­ tained in a hole in the rock, near which they met Avith a kangaroo, that had just been killed by an eagle. A small patch of grass supplied the horses for the night.

They found it impossible to travel through the brush before the dew was off, and could not, therefore, proceed at an earlier hour in the morning than nine. After travelling about a mile on the third day, in a west and north-west direction, they arrived at a large tract of forest land, rather hilly, the grass and timber tolerably good, extending, as they imagine, nearly to Grose Head, in the same direction nearly as the river. They computed it as two thousand acres. Here they found a “European?”‘s track marked by a European,If by cut-

H ack ing, Dawes, ^ ng tiie bark 0f the trees. Several though it is native huts presented themselves at mere supposi- uTo deflni" different places. They had not pro- record logo ceeded above two miles, when they

Day. Date. Distance. Bearing. Rem arks.

3 May 13 3 W.N.W.

3 ? -

>9 found themselves stopped by a brush­ wood much thicker than they had hitherto met with. This induced them to alter their course, and to endeavour to find another passage to the west­ ward; but every ridge which they ex­ plored proved to terminate in a deep rocky precipice; and they had no alter­ native but to return to the thick brush­ wood, which appeared to be on the main ridge, with the determination to cut a way through for the horses next day. This day some of the horses, while standing, fell several times under their loads. The dogs killed a large kanga­ roo. The party encamped in the forest tract, with plenty of good grass and water. fX) (_ /fa*} )

On the next morning, leaving two men to take care of the horses and pro­ visions, they proceeded to cut a path through the thick brush-wood, on which they considered the main ridge of the mountain, between the Western River and the River Grose; keeping the heads of the gullies, which were sup­ posed to empty themselves into the Western River on their left hand, and into the River Grose on their right. As they ascended the mountain these 20

U This was the commencement gullies became much deeper and more of the “ blazed track,” which rocky on each side. They now began method was continued to to mark their track by cutting the bark the termination of their tour at Mt. Blax­ of the trees on two sides.ff Having land. From this point on the cut their way for about five miles, they return journey great difficulty returned in the evening to the spot on was experi­ enced in find­ ing their wav- which they had encamped the night back 'to the river. before. The fifth day was spent in prosecuting the same tedious opera-1 This addi­ tional fatigue tion; but, as much time was neces­ told severely on the party. sarily lost in walking twice over the track cleared the day before, they were unable to cut away more than two miles further. They found no food for the horses the whole way. An emu was heard on the other side of the gully, ^ calling continually in the night. On Sunday they rested, and arranged their future plan. They had reason, however, to regret this suspension of their proceedings, as it gave the men leisure to ruminate on their danger; and * This would imply that it was for some time doubtful whether, mutiny was abroad, but evidently the on the next day, they could be per­ counsels of the leader were lis­ suaded to venture farther.* The dogs tened to, and the trouble was this day killed two small kangaroos. overcome.

D ay. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

4 M ay 14 5 No record, probably W .

5 M ay 15 2

Photo. H. Phillips. BLUE MOUNTAIN SCENERY.

RODRIGUEZ PASS, Near Blackheath.

Note.—This view is typical of the rugged nature of the country which had to be. traversed by the First Mountain Explorers. f 2-

22

They barked and ran off continually during the whole night; and at day­ light, a tremendous howling of native dogs was heard, who apparently had xbeen watching them during the night. /V o n On Monday, the 17th, having laden the horses with as much grass as could be put on them, in addition to their other burdens, they moved forward along the path which they had cleared and marked, about six miles and a half. ^1 This is where The bearing of the route, they had been the difficulty of endeavouring to plot the obliged to keep along the ridge, varied route of the explorers cor­ exceedingly; it ran sometimes in a rectly is en­ countered. The north-north-western direction—some­ varied directions as given, imply times south-east, or due south, but that some in­ surmountable obstacles pre­ generally south-west, or south-south- sented them­ selves all west.1T They encamped in the afternoon through the journey on this between two very deep gullies, on a day.

* This descrip­ narrow ridge, Grose Head bearing tion tallies with the nature north-east by north; and Mount Banks of the country between Faul- north-west by west. They had to fetch conbridge and Linden. The bearings of water up the side of the precipice, about Grose Head and Mount Bank? six hundred feet high, and could get (now King George) would scarcely enough for the party.* The be about cor­ rect from this neighbourhood. horses had none this night; they per-

Day. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

6 M ay 16 — — Sunday.

7 .. 17 H W .N.W ., S.E., S.S.W.

440* ton 23 formed their journey well, not having to stand under their loads. The following day was spent in cut­ ting a passage through the brush-wood, for a mile and a half further. They returned to their camp at five o ’clock, very much tired and dispirited. The U This ridge may be easily identified as ridge, which was not more than fifteen that near Lin­ den station, now or twenty yards wide, with deep preci­ carrying the pre­ sent road. Its pices on each side, was rendered almost width tallies with that des­ impassable by a perpendicular mass of cribed by Blax- land, and there are deep preci­ rock, nearly thirty feet high, extending pices on either across the whole breadth, with the ex­ s-ide. The mass of ception of a small broken rugged track rock still exists to the east of Linden station. in the centre. By removing a few large The old Bathurst road stones, thev were enabled to_pass.il will be found {/y

D ay. D ate. D istance. Bearing. Rem arks.

8 M ay 18 H W. and S.W.

9 M a y 19 \ W. and S.W. Hills, east-north-east; Windsor, north­ east by east. At a little distance from the spot at which they began the ascent, t Long known (but erroneously they found a pyramidical heap of called) as “ Oaley’s Re­ stones,U the work, evidently, of some pulse.” This me­ morial, or what remains o f it, European, one side of which the natives was located on Sept. 6, 1912, had opened, probably in the expecta­ by a party of members of the tion of finding some treasure deposited Ausc. Historical Society. (See il­ lustration page in it. This pile they concluded to be the 43.) one erected by Mr. Bass, to mark the * A mistaken end of his journey.* That gentleman at­ impression, as Bass never reached 'this tempted, some time ago, to pass the portion of the Mountains, mountains, and to penetrate into the in­ judging by his route map and terior; but having got thus far, he gave description of the country. up the undertaking as impracticable; The cairn was more probably erected by reporting, on his return, that it was Hacking or Wilson. impossible to find a passage even for a person on foot. Here, therefore, the party had the satisfaction of believing that they had penetrated as far as any European had been before them. They encamped this day to refresh their horses at the head of a swamp covered with a coarse rushy grass, with a small run of good water through the t This swamp is situated at middle of it.t In the afternoon, they the foot of the ridge beyond left their camp to mark and cut a road Linden station, referred 'to on for the next day. page 23. They proceeded with the horses on the 20tli nearly five miles, and en-

OBELISK, MT. YORK.

The Centenary Celebrations, May 28, 1913, took place near this memorial. 50

camped at noon at the head of a swamp about three acres in extent, covered with the same coarse rushy grass as the last station, with a stream of water Ifdwayfetwen running through it.1I The horses were Law^on,°pro- obliged to feed 011 the swamp grass, as bably the source ji • 1 i i i j t o f Hazelbrook llO tlllllg D 6 tl6 r COlUCl D6 IOUIICL IOP 1116111. The travellers left the camp as before, in the afternoon, to cut a road for the morrow’s journey. The ridge along which their course lay now became wider and more rocky, but wras still covered with brush and small crooked timber, except at the heads of the dif­ ferent streams of water which ran down the side of the mountain, where the land was swampy and clear of trees. The track of scarcely any animal was to be seen, and very few birds. One man was here taken dangerously ill with a cold. Bearing of the route at first, south­ westerly; afterwards, north-north-west .and west-north-west. (Sj J pj.Qgj.ggg the next day was nearly four miles, in a direction still varying from north-west by north to

D ay. Date. Distance. Bearing. Rem arks.

10 May 20 5 S.W.. then N.N.W. and W.N.W. II M ay 21 4 N.W . by N. to S.W. 5 \ [} b u k ]

53

27 south-west. They encamped in the middle of the day at the head of a well- watered swamp, about five acres in ex­ tent; pursuing, as before, their opera­ H Situated in tions in the afternoon.!! In the begin­ the neighbour­ hood of Went­ ning of the night the dogs ran off an< worth Falls. barked violently. At the same time] something was distinctly heard to run through the brushwood, which they sup posed to be one of the horses got loose: but they had reason to believe after­ wards that they had been in great danger— that the natives had followed their track and advanced 011 them in the night, intending to have speared * This was the .narrowest lescape of anni- / them by the light of their fire, but that hilation the - S the dogs drove them off.* SS' the only 'time On Saturday, the 22nd instant, they they were really exposed to dan­ proceeded in the track marked the pre­ ger from the attacks of ceding day rather more than three natives. miles, in a south-westerly direction, fThe high ridge beyond Went­ worth Falls. when they reached the summit of the As a proof that this is the third and highest ridge of the moun­ locality -indi­ cated, the spot tains southward of Mt. Banks.t From is due south from Mt. King the bearing of Prospect Hill and Grose George (origi­ nally named Head, they computed this spot to be Mt. Banks). A. straight eighteen miles in a straight line from line drawn due W est from the the River Nepean, at the point at which Nepean would measure exactly 18 miles, show­ they crossed it. On the top of this ridge ing how re­ markably accu­ they found about two thousand acres rate Rlaxland was on his of land clear of trees, covered with loose computation. 5 ^

stones and short coarse grass, such as grows 011 some of the commons in Eng­ land. Over this heath they proceeded . for about a mile and a half, in a south­ westerly direction, and encamped by the side of a fine stream of water with just wood enough 011 the banks to serve for firewood. From the summit they had a fine view of all the settlements and country eastward, and of a great extent of country to the westward and south­ west. But their progress in both the latter directions was stopped by an im- < passable barrier of rock, which ap­ peared to divide the interior from the coast as with a stone wall, rising per­ pendicularly out of the side of the

11 They were by lllOUlltain. ' now evidently on the edge of T ~ some part of in the aiternoon they left their little the precipice J Kanlmbia vai-° camP in the charge of three of the men, walnr1 and made an attempt to descend the Ilatoomba. precipice . . ,by following « n • some of - » then streams of water or by getting down at some of the projecting points where the rocks had fallen in; but they were baffled in every instance. In some

D ay. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

12 M ay 22 31 l i S.W.

4 !

Compass Bearings of Blaxland,Lawson & Wentworth’s Track across the Mountains in 1813. (From Lieut.W.Lawspn's Journal)

t o . L 2 . t h j ,8,1 ? S.^;S.W.k.W;S.W.%. W.^. W.H.W.56. H by W.k. N.H.W.^. Encamped at head of gully. (2% miles)

Masr.I3.th, W;3g. N.WiJg; W by S . k . N.W.^. S.E.^.N.M.fe. N.E.^. N.w.^k. (3% miles) Mav 14th. Prospecting

May. .1 5 th - ditto

May V^th. Resting. May ,1,7th. W.S.W.fc. W.fe. N.W.fe. W.N.W.3*. W.^. N.N.W.%. W by TS.k. S.W.Jg. W.%. S.W.^. W.&. S.E.5k. w;s.w.fe. s.w.k.-s.s.vt.k. w.s.w.k. s.w.k. s.k. S.W.k. W.fe. S.S.W.k. W.S.w.k. {'Ik miles) May .1 8 th. Prospecting. May -19.th. W.S.W.Jg. W.?£. W.by S.ik. (f% miles) Narrow Pass met with (Linden). "Here we found a large "heap of stohes piled up; no doubt it was

May 25th. W.by IT. 1/8. SW.1/16. W.by N.fc. MW.fc. W.1/8 SSW.k. SSW.%. WSW.k. NW by W.fc. W.k. M W . 1/8 SW;by W.k. HW.fe. IT.3*. HE.k. ( 4 3/1 6ths miles) Encamped at head of Swamp. May 26th. WSW.1/16. NW.k. ME.5k. HW.Jg. N.by IT.k. NW.Jf. M W . 5^. N.k. M W . 1/1 6. IT.1/8. N.k. (2k miles)

MaxJL2±h. HW.by 1T.1/16. N.3/8. ME.k. N.1/16. UW.1/16 HE.1/16. ME.k. (Grossed a large common). MW.k. SW.1/8. W.k. MW.k. WUW.1/8. M W A. N.k. HE.1/8. (4 1/8 miles) Encamped at head of Lagoon) May 28th. NW.1/8. N .k. WSW.k. N.1/16. WM.k. N.1/8. M W . k wm.k. NW.k. w.1/8. whw.1/16. NW.k. m by N.k. W.k. N.k. NNW.k. m.%. ME.1/16. WNW.1/8. NW.1/8 (arrival at Mt York) (4% miles) May 29th. NE.k. MW.1k;. (1% miles) encamped by river)the Lett.

MajL-lQtii. Resting in camp. May 51 st. sw.3. w.2. NW.k. ME.k. SSW.k. (6 miles) Mt S Blaxland,their furthest point.

■ B s a g s n a w ■ ■ mi i r IIiI M M M — — Ll.L 1 ■ stones at the end of his Journey" (Caley’s Repulse). Encamped at head of small Lagoon Mav 2 0th. S.E.fe. S.k. S.k. S.S.W.%. W by S.1/8® W.1/8. NiWsfe. S.W.%. W;N.W.1/8. N.N.W.1/8. N.W.fcy H.fc N.W.ty W M. N.ff.W.fe. W.N.W.&. (b% miles) Encamped at head of small Lagoon. May 2,1 a t. N.Wiby K.k. Wife; N.W.k. N.JT.W.k. S.W.k. W.k. N.W.by W.fe. W.S.W.1%. (4% miles) Encamped at head of small swamp. lay, 2.2 aft. WiS.W.1 . S.W.1 /8.-N.W.fcy W.1/8® W.1/8. W.hy O S.W.tjy W.1/8. N.W.by W.1/8. S.W.by W.k. WSW.1/8 NiW.1 /8.-W.fc. S.w.k. W.1/16. S.W.by W.1/8.W.^ s.1. S.W.%. (5% & 3/1 6ths.miles) Reached high­ est point of land. ftBlackheath) Prospect Hill E.Grose Head HE. Hat Hill SE by S. .May 2?rfl. * • • * • « N.Eife. N.1 . N.N.W.%. N.1/8. N.W,k. W.k. W.N.W.Jg N.N.W.k. Encamped at head pf large Lagoon. (3 1/8 miles)

.May. .2 4, til. N.-by W.1/16. BW.1/16. MW.k. W .k. N.1/16. WSW.fc SSW.k. s.ly E.k. SSW.1/8. S.k. W.1 . WSW.%. ssw.% NW.%. encamped near large Lagoon. (3% & 3/l6ths miles.) ITS'

v

^V>C/V<3a/^hViC AjL+A, <£*W/yWJt/

29 places the perpendicular height of the rocks above the earth below could not be less than four hundred feet. Could they have accomplished a descent, they hoped to procure mineral specimens which might throw light on the geologi­ cal character of the country, as the strata appeared to be exposed for many hundred feet from the top of the rock to the beds of the several rivers beneath. The broken rocky country on the western side of the cow-pasture has the appearance of having acquired its pre­ sent form from an earthquake, or some other dreadful convulsion of nature, at a much later period than the mountains northward, of which Mount Banks forms the southern extremity. The aspect of the country which lay beneath them much disappointed the travellers; it appeared to consist of sand and small scrubby brushwood, intersected with broken rocky mountains, with streams of water running between them to the eastward, towards one point, where they probably form the Western River, and enter the mountains.

They now flattered themselves that they had surmounted half the difficulties of their undertaking, expecting to find a H The fact that passage down the mountain more to the the party re­ solved to bear more to the northward. H North, in their endeavours to On the next day they proceeded about find a pas;age down to the low er lands, is three miles and a half; but the trouble responsible for the accidental occasioned by the horses when they got arrival on the high tongue of off the open land induced them to recur land, now known as Mt. to their former plan of devoting the York. It would have been quite probable, other­ afternoon to marking and clearing a wise, that they would have at­ track for the ensuing day, as the most tempted the descent of the expeditious method of proceeding, not range in 'the vicinity of Mt. Victoria Pass, withstanding that they had to go twice where the lay of the country over the same ground. The bearing of w ould have presented 'less their course this day was, at first, north­ difficulty, as regards the east and north-north-west. They en­ descent, than Mt. York. This discovery, camped on the side of a swamp, with a however, came afterwards, beautiful stream of water running when a more practicable through it. ^ ) route was dis­ covered, and \ the opening of the Victoria Their progress on the next da}7 was Pass in 1832 sealed the fate four miles and a half, in a direction o f the old Bathurst road varying from nortli-north-west to south- in its descent of Mt. York. south-west; they encamped, as before, at * Between Mediow Bath the head of a swamp.* This day, be­ and Blackhea'th. The swamp is tween ten and eleven a.m., they obtained still dn exis­ tence. a sight of the country below, when the t By “ clouds’’ Blaxland evi­ dently meant clouds ascended.t As they were mark­ to imply the rising mists ing a road for the morrow, they heard a

Day. Dale. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

13 May 23 3i N.E. and N.N.W.

14 May 24 41 N.N.W . to S.S.W.

3> native chopping wood very near them, wmashtehly’"

but he fled at the approach of the coasting along the edge of the dogs. (p) precipice-

On Tuesday, the 25th, they could pro­ ceed only three miles and a half in a /i + U > varying direction, encamping at two o ’clock at the side of a swamp. The underwood, being very prickly and full of small thorns, annoyed them very much. This day they saw the track of a wombat* for the first time. On the 26th they proceeded two miles and three-quarters. The brush still con­ tinued to be very thorny. The land to the westward appeared sandy and barren. This day they saw the fires of some natives below; the number they j computed at about thirty— men, women, and children. They noticed also more tracks of the wombat. On the 27th they proceeded five miles and a quarter— part of the way over another piece of clear land, without trees; they saw more the counitry ,• n ii i ji * i around Black- BatlVe nres. and abou t the sam e num ber heath. as they would now be as before, but more in their direct

* An animal which burrows in the ground like a badger, and lives on grass.

D ay. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

15 M a y 25 3 i N. and N.W. 16 .. 26 23 N . and N .W .

17 .. 27 5t ...... 32 course. From the top of the rocks they saw a large piece of land below, clear of trees, but apparently a poor reedy swamp. They met with some good 1i This view of timber in this day’s route. 11 the lower lying country would be obtained . The bearing of the route for the last / from a spot in the neighbour­ hood of Mount three days lias been chiefly north and Victoria. north-west. On the 28tli they proceeded about five miles and three-quarters. Not being (_/S) A rt JirrK- able to find water, they did not halt till five o ’clock, when they took up their *The termina­ tion of this station on the edge of the precipice.* To day’s journey brought them their great satisfaction, they discovered out to the edge of Mt. York. It that what they had supposed to be sandy is quite pos­ sible that on barren land below the mountain, was observing the low-dying lands beneath him, forest land, covered with good grass and Blaxland con-, ceived that he with timber of an inferior quality. In had at length reached 'the the evening they contrived to get their termination of the main range, and horses down the mountain by cutting a then decided to push on small trench with a hoe, which kept some distance further, where them from slipping, and here they again from one or other of the elevations be­ tasted fresh grass for the first time since yond he would be able to ob­ they left the forest land 'on the other tain some idea of ‘the country side of the mountain. They were get­ to the west­ ward. ting into miserable condition. Water

Day. Date. Distance, Bearing. Remarks.

18 May 28 5J N o R ecord. Probably N.W .

T4

54

If “ The Lett was found about two miles below the River,” which was crossed next day. foot of the mountain.!! The second camp (Named by Evans, and re­ of natives moved before them about corded in his journal as the three miles. In this day’s route little “ Riverlett,” meaning the timber was observed fit for building. Rivulet. Hence the present name of this On the 29th, having got up the horses stream.) and loaded them, they began to descend The party evidently re­ the mountain* at seven o ’clock through turned to the summit of the a pass in the rock, about thirty feet mountain, where the camp of wide, which they had discovered the day the evening of May 28 was formed. before, when the want of water put them on the alert.t Part of the descent t The first Bathurst road, was so steep that the horses could but which passed over Mt. York, was formed just keep their footing without a load, along 'this pass, and traces of so that, for some way, the party were the work are still (1912) obliged to carry the packages them­ distinctly vis­ ible. selves. A cart road might, however, easily be made by cutting a slanting trench along the side of the mountain, which is here covered with earth. This $ Blaxland is somewhat out pass is, according to their computation, in this calcula­ tion, as a about twenty miles north-west in a straight line drawn from the straight line from the point at which summit of 'the first range, above the they ascended the summit of the moun- Nepean, run­ ning N.W., tains.i They reached the foot at nine would measure nearer 30 miles o ’clock a.m., and proceeded two miles —not 20—as stated.

Day. Date. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

19 May 29 2 N.N.W. 7 5 [b l

. v

7?

35 north-north-west, mostly through open meadow land, clear of trees, the grass being from two to three feet high. They » * encamped on the bank of a fine stream of ' ' water.1I The natives, as was observed i pi*-would -— ------— 7 bring them to by the smoke of their fires, moved be- SV^abTut fore them as they did yesterday. The eltmofetheuth" dogs killed a kangaroo, which was very road.1" ' ale acceptable, as the party had lived on salt meat since they caught the last. The timber seen this day appeared rotten and unfit for building. Sunday, the 30th, they rested in their encampment. One of the party shot a kangaroo with his rifle, at a great dis­ tance across a wide valley. The climate here was found very much colder than that of the mountain or of the settle­ ments on the east side, where no signs of frost had made its appearance when the party set out. During the night the ground was covered with a thick frost, and a leg of the kangaroo was quite frozen. From the dead and brown ap­ pearance of the grass it was evident that the weather had been severe for some

Day. Date. Distance. Bearing. Remarks.

20 M a y 30 - Sunday. 7 S

36 time past. They were all much sur­ prised at this degree of cold and frost in the latitude of about 34deg. The track of the emu was noticed at several places near the camp. On the Monday they proceeded about six miles south-west and west, through forest land, remarkably well watered, and several open meadows, clear of trees, and covered with high good grass. nw ihe Lett rpiiev crossed two fine streams of water.H 1River, lower course!^n

River, probably selves in the fires they had left the day tion ot the two before, and in the flowers of the honey- streams, as the old Bathurst suckle tree scattered around, which had road crossed ' stream1 near supplied them with food. These flowers, the junction, are sliaj>ecl like a bottle-brush, are very full of honey. The natives on this side of the mountains appear to have 110 huts like those 011 the eastern side, nor do they strip the bark or climb the trees. From the shavings and pieces of sharp stones which they had left, it was evident that they had been busily employed in sharpening their spears. The party encamped by the side of a

D ay. D ate. Distance. Bearing. Rem arks.

M ay 31 6 S.W. and W. Termination of Journey. v s- | *

Photo. H. Phillips.

BLUE MOUNTAIN SCENERY.

NEAR ECHO POINT, KATOOMBA.

Note.—This view is typical of the rugged nature of the country which had to be traversed by the First Mountain Explorers. Photo. F. Walker. VIEW OF MOUNT BLAXLAND

Photo. F. Walker.

CAIRN ON SUMMIT OF MOUNT BLAXLAND /yMc'Pm- 3/' ^/*3,

I CJ1

3 9 fine stream of water, at a short distance from a high hill, in the shape of a sugar loaf.TT In the afternoon they ascended 20^hbearb£reek, its summit, from whence they descried tte‘cS?mw. all around, forest or grass land, suf- loarwuYs , Mount Blax- ficient in extent, in their opinion, to support the stock of the colony for the srtiSmboveTwo next thirty years. This was the ex- shaped hills in treme point of their journey. The dis- ity wiere also v ** named by tance they had travelled they computed a^|ntL'aw. at about fifty-eight miles nearly north- ioanJ«s"?The west; that is, fifty miles through the mountain (thei greater part of which babiy 1912> andstood pro_ on v ° w the very spot they had walked over three times), and rnhderhei3Bp“tynd eight miles through the forest land be- positioned yond it, reckoning the descent of the magnificent prospect, em- mountain to be half a mile to the foot. »>»<*»*points of «n the compass, 'is ob- The timber observed this day still ap- tainaUe-) peared unfit for building. The stones This is ex- n • acfely the ap- at the bottom of the rivers appeared very fine, large-grained, dark-coloured granite, of a kind quite different from worn boulders , p . o f dark-colour- the mountain rocks, or trom any stones ed granite, which they had ever seen in the colony. Mr. Blaxland and one of the men nearly lost the party to-day by going too far in the pursuit of a kangaroo.

*Tliey now conceived that they had * On viewing the wide ex­ tent of moun­ sufficiently accomplished the design of tainous country their undertaking, having surmounted Tun had % >

40 to be passed over, Blaxland, all the difficulties which had hitherto in view of the physical condi­ prevented the interior of the country tion o f the party, and re­ from being explored, and the colony cognising the value of the work already from being extended. They had partly accomplished, decided to re­ cleared, 01*, at least, marked out, a road turn to the settlement, as by which the passage of the mountain it was hopeless to proceed might easily be effected. Their pro­ further. No dou'bt his dis­ appointment visions were nearly expended, their was keen, when the pro?pect clothes and shoes were in very bad con­ from the sum­ mit of Mt. dition, and the whole party were ill with Blaxland was revealed to him. He possi bowel complaints. These considera- ! bly anticipated finding a level tions determined them, therefore, to re- . stretch of coun­ try behind the turn home by the track they came. On range which shut them in after leaving Tuesday, the 1st of June, they arrived Mt. York, but was soon unde­ at the foot of the mountain which they A-'4 ceived. Under the circum­ had descended, where they encamped stances Blax- land’s decision for the night. The following day they was a wise one, and even if he and his party began to ascend the mountain at seven did not com­ plete the entire o ’clock, and reached the summit at ten; passage of the Mountains, they were obliged to carry the pack­ they, and they alone, are de­ serving of the ages themselves up part of the ascent. honour which will ever be They encamped in the evening at one theirs of find­ ing a practical of their old stations. One of the men passage across the main por­ had left his great coat on the top of tion of this hitherto insur­ mountable the rock, where they reloaded the barrier. horses, and it was found by the next Mt. York. _ party who traversed the mountain. On

It i9 difficult the 3rd they readied another of their ^ to say what this noise was old stations. Here, during the night, ' - really occasioned by. It could not have come they heard a confused noise arising from the settle­ ments below from the eastern settlements below.

which, after having been so long accus- tomed to the death-like stillness of the pro- interior, had a very striking: effect. On underground 0 disturbance. A the 4th they arrived at the end of their ™^c°eu?g“inci- marked track, and encamped in the J o ^ i ’ w ^ r e forest land where they had to cut the of his journey he recorded the grass for their horses. One of the horses ^ct that at a 0 particular spot fell this day with his load, quite ex- surgSi.^ liausted, and was with difficultv got on, h This wl^ot • course, an utter atter having his load put on the other impossibility, 0 and the origin horses. The next day, the 5th, was the w a f p r ^ i w y most unpleasant and fatiguing they had heard by Blax- , land. experienced. The track not being marked, they had great difficulty in poS’nt home- finding their way back to the river, were no marks on the trees to which they did not reach till four o ’clock ffl,lde theni- p.m. They then once more encamped for the night to refresh themselves and 'the horses. They had no provisions thYsSment now left except a little flour, but T)J*Q- provisions, it appears tha-c cured some from the settlement on the other side of the river. On Sundav, the member of the

6th of June, they crossed the rivd* by swimming, after breakfast, and reached their r homes, all in good health. The * winter had not set in on this side of the mountain, nor had their been any frost. °\0

42

Summary of Daily Averages and Total Distance Travelled, Nepean to Mount Blaxland.

Distance Date. Bearing. Remarks. Day. Travelled.

1 May II 2 S.W. to W .N.W . S.W. to W .N.W ,, 2 .. 12 3f M-W. 3 13 3 W.N.W. 4 14 5 No record. 5 15 2 ,, 6 .. 16 — ------Sunday. W .N.W ., S.E., 7 .. 17 H s.s.w. 8 18 H W . and S.W . 9 19 4 *» ** 10 .. 20 5. S.W..then W .N .W . II 21 4 N.W.byN. toS.W. 12 .. 22 4S S.W. 13 .. 23 n N.E. and N.N.W . Sunday. 14 .. 24 4 4 N.N.W. to S.S.W. 15 .. 25 34 N. and N.W . 16 „ 26 2S »* »» 17 27 5 1 »» ,, 18 .. 28 No record. Probably n N.W. 19 29 2 N.N.W.

20 „ 30 — - Sunday. 21 31 6 S.W. and W .

Average direction, 21 Days 66| Miles N . West.

Photo. F. Walker. “ C A L E Y S R E P U L S E "

Located Friday, September 6th, 1912, by Members of the Australian Historical Society. APPENDIX.

Photo. F. Walker.

TREE AT FOOT OF MOUNT BLAXLAND, MARKED BY THE EXPLORERS IN 1813. 46

GOVERNMENT ORDER.

Government House, Sydney, Feb. 12,1814.

It having been long deemed an object of great importance by His Excellency the Governor, to ascertain what resources this colony might possess in the interior, beyond its present known and circum­ scribed limits, with a view to meet the necessary demands of its rapidly in­ creasing population; and the great im­ portance of the discovery of new tracts of good soil, being much enhanced by the consideration of the long-continued droughts of the present season, so in­ jurious in their effects to every class of the community in the colony: His Ex­ cellency was pleased some time since, to equip a party of men, under the direc­ tion of Mr. George W. Evans, one of the Assistant Land Surveyors (in whose zeal and abilities for such an undertak­ ing he had well-founded reason to con­ fide), and to furnish him with written instructions for his guidance, in en-

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Photo. H. Phillips.

GROSE VALLEY (Blackheath), BLUE MOUNTAINS.

Note.—This view is typical of the rugged nature of the country which had to be traversed by the First Mountain Explorers. 48 deavouring to discover a passage over the Blue Mountains, and ascertaining the qualities and general properties of the soil he should meet with to the west­ ward of them. This object having been happily effected, and Mr. Evans returned with his entire party, all in good health: the Governor is pleased to direct that the following summary of his tour of dis­ covery, extracted from his own journal, shall be published for general informa­ tion :— “ Mr. Evans, attended by five men, selected for their general knowledge of the country, and habituated to such difficulties as might be expected to occur, was supplied with horses, arms, and ammunition, and a plentiful store of provisions for a two months’ tour. His instructions were, that he should commence the ascent of the Blue Moun­ tains, from the extremity of the present known country at Emu Island, distant about 36 miles from Sydney, and thence proceed in as nearly a west direction as the nature of the country he had to ex­ plore would admit, and to continue his journey as far as his means would en­ able him.” 10 3

49 On Saturday, the 20th November last, the party proceeded from Emu Island; and on the fifth day, having then effected their passage over the Blue Mountains, arrived at the commence­ ment of a valley on the western side of them, having passed over several tracts of tolerably good soil, but also over much rugged and very difficult moun­ tain; proceeding through this valley, which Mr. Evans describes as beauti­ ful and fertile, with a rapid stream run­ ning through it, he arrived at the ter­ mination of the tour lately made by Messrs. G. Blaxland, W. C. Wentworth, and Lieutenant Lawson. Continuing in the western direction prescribed in his instructions, for the course of twenty- one days from this station, Mr. Evans then found it necessary to return; and on the 8th of January he arrived back at Emu Island, after an excursion of seven complete weeks. During the course of this tour Mr. Evans passed over several plains of great extent, interspersed with hills and valleys, abounding in the richest soil, and with various streams of water and chains of ponds. The country he traversed mea­ sured ninety-eight miles and a half be­ yond the termination of Messrs. Blax­ land, Wentworth, and Lawson’s tour, and not less than one hundred and fifty miles from Emu Island. The greater part of these plains are described as being nearly free of timber and brush­ wood, and in capacity equal (in Mr. Evan’s opinion) to every demand which this colony may have for an extension of tillage and pasture lands for a cen­ tury to come. The stream already men­ tioned continues its course in a westerly direction, and for several miles passing through the valleys, with many and great accessions of other streams be­ comes a capacious and beautiful river, abounding in fish of very large size and fine flavour, many of which weighed not less than fifteen pounds. This river is supposed to empty itself into the ocean,

1) This 'is a very on the western side of New South good instance of the remark­ Wales, at a distance of from two to able conclusions arrived at by persons of three hundred miles from the termina­ authority in the early days tion of the tour.1I From the summits of concerning a country about some very high hills, Mr. Evans saw a which they knew so -little. Macquarie never vast extent of flat country, lying in a dreamed when he penned this westerly direction, which appeared to order that the Western coast lav*, not hun­ be bounded at a distance of about forty dreds of miles, but actually miles by other hills. The general de­ thousands of miles from this scription of these hitherto unexplored point.

51 •egions, given by Mr. Evans, is, that hey very far surpass, in beauty and fertility of soil, any he has seen in New South Wales or Van Diemen’s Land.

In consideration of the importance of hese discoveries, and calculating upon lie effect they may have on the future prosperity of this colony, His Excel- ency the Governor is pleased to an­ nounce his intention of presenting Mr. Evans with a grant of one thousand acres of land in Van Diemen’s Laud, where he is to be stationed as Deputy Surveyor; and, further, to make him a pecuniary reward from the Colonial Funds, in acknowledgment of his dili­ gent and active services on this oc­ casion.

His Excellency also means to make a pecuniary reward to the two free men who accompanied Mr. Evans, and a grant of land to each of them. To the three convicts who also assisted in this excursion the Governor means to grant conditional pardons, and a small portion of land to each of them, these men hav­ ing performed the services required of them entirely to the satisfaction of Mr. Evans. The Governor is happy to embrace this opportunity of conveying his acknowledgments to Gregory Blaxland and William Charles Wentworth, Esqs., and Lieutenant William Lawson, of the Royal Veteran Company, for their enterprising and arduous exertions on the tour of discovery which they volun­ tarily performed in the month of May last, when they effected a passage over the Blue Mountains, and proceeded to the extremity of the first valley, par­ ticularly alluded to in Mr. Evans’ tour, and being the first Europeans who had accomplished the passage over the Blue Mountains. The Governor, desirous to confer on these gentlemen substantial marks of his sense of their meritorious exertions on this occasion, means to pre­ sent each of them with a grant of one thousand acres of land in this newly discovered country. By command of His Excellency the Governor, J. T. CAMPBELL, Secretary.

Extract from a letter written by the late G. B. Barton, 25//I#9, to Mr. Charles R. Blaxland, of Wollun, a grandson of the explorer.

1 am well aware of the facts to which you allude; and so far as I am concerned 1 was never under the impression that Wentworth was entitled to the credit of having led the party over the Blue Mountains. He never claimed it him­ self. I have read his MS. account of the journey, and also Lieut, Lawson’s, but I have not seen Blaxland’s. If you can spare me the printed copy you refer to I will take care of it, u z

54

Copy of letter written by Frank M. Bladen, Editor “ Historical Records of N.S.Wto Mr. Charles R. BI ax I and, of IVollun, « grandson of the explorer.

I have read your letter printed in the “ Lithgow Mercury” of the 11th Sep­ tember, 1903, and bearing on the dis­ covery of a pass over the Blue Moun­ tains in May, 1813. I have before me the journals of each of the three men (Gregory Blaxland, W illiam Lawson, and William Charles Wentworth), who, with four servants, formed the expedition; so far as these records go, they serve to prove that Gregory Blaxland was the leader of the party; and I do not know of any evi­ dence written or traditional which dis­ putes his claim. There is certainly no reliable evidence which points to Wentworth as being the leader, nor did he ever claim to have been so. 13 OI<**tkJ

Copy of letter written by D r. Houison, late President, Australian Historical Society, 29/3/04, to Mr. Charles R. Blaxland, of Wollun, a grandson of the explorer.

I have perused with much interest the papers you left with me, but more especially the diary of Gregory Blax­ land. Before all these, however, I would place the evidence of William Charles Wentworth himself as to the question of the leadership of the expedition of 1813. In his ‘ ‘ Statistical Account of the Settlement in Australia,” 3rd edition (1824), page 171, he states: “ Of the “ latter route into the Transalpine “ country, Governor Macquarie has left “ happily on record a more accurate as “ well as authentic description in a gene- “ ral order published by him upon his “ return from his first visit to that “ country, than any I could give from “ mere memory at this lapse of time. “ . . . It strikes me that I cannot “ do better than insert it verbatim.” Then follows the General Order, dated 56 . Government House, Sydney, June 10th, 1815, from which I make the following extracts. Page 177. “ Three miles westward of “ the Yale of Chvydd, Messrs. Blaxland, “ Wentworth, and Lawson had formerly “ terminated their excursion,” and again on the same page, “ In commemo­ r a tio n of their merits, three beau- “ tiful high hills, joining each other at ‘ ‘ the end of their tour at this place, have “ received their names in the following “ order, viz., Mount Blaxland, Went- “ worth’s Sugarloaf, and Lawson’s “ Sugarloaf.” I think this speaks so conclusively that further comment appears to be un­ necessary.

S. T. Leigh & Co., Ltd., Printers. Sydney. (Brit.Mas.M.S.8958) !tj [bh,hkj

Letter to Sir Joseph. Banks from Gregory Blaxland

under date "Brnah Farm” .Nov. 10.18.1 6 .

S ir,

From some conversation I have had with Mr Vick- ery,surgeon of the "Elizabeth" transport,I find that the business of our having passed the mountains and opened the interior of the country,has been either misrepresented,or has not "been fully explained in England. "As i t was hy your recommendation that I was sent out to settle in the colony.it may be pleasing to you to hear how far by ny exertions I have been able to remunerate the B ritish Government for the expense in­ curred in my first establishment,which I always con­ sidered myself bound to attempt the first opportunity that might o ffe r . "The onject o f attempting a passage over the West­ ern or Blue Mountains I always considered in a favor­ able point o f view, and about two years and a h a lf be­ fore I set out on the expedition in which we succee­ ded,! went,with three European servants,two natives, and one horse to carry provisions and necessaries,to explore the back o f the low pasture,in which I could travel with ease by keeping a t the heads o f the runs o f water which emptied themselves into some river in the in te rio r-to the westward a3 I suppdsed-but at the same time I found myself turning evidently every day to the coast eastward,directly contrary to the course I wished to proceed. I had a man in this expedition taken ill,who died on his return. I did not know it, but afterwards ffrund he was unwell when he set out.I was by this accident forced to return back many days sooner than I had first intended,although I had,for a day or two before I did return,considered it imposs­ ible to penetrate the interior from the low pasture, either with horses or cattle. "Some time after which expedition I went up the Western River with a party as far as we could get

; fc+wf (Vvv perpendicular. Here we saw the eonrse of the Western River and that broken Country at Natal, the back of the Cowpasters. No OVER THE MOUNTAINS doubt this is the remains of some dreadful Earthquake.” — '£ /U0j, r. r. U The tra<-k of the 24th has been quoted above. That o f the 25th clearlv indicates the bend of The First Crossing.’ tl-.e ridge bevond Kat.oo’-nba bv its sudden change from SSWs and WSWs and Ws to “ NW Vi, N Ml. NTS %.*• (That was the day on which they blazed the Katoomba tree.) Similarly, the BLAXLAND’S NARRATIVE. two fine streams of water they crossed on the 31st are described by Lawson as "one of them Mr. Sydney B. Levlck has written to the running from the west, the other from the NE.”—whirh settles at once that thev were the “Herald” from London, as follows:— Lett and the Cox. the Prst probably crossed I visited the British Museum last week.t near Hartley and the other not far above the for the purpose of inspecting some M.SS. in1 junction. Larson, curiously enough, does not connection with Gregory Blaxland's cross-' mention the ‘ sugar-loaf’ hill now called Mt. Blaxland, which is taken to mark the' end of ing of the Blue Mountains in 1813 for the' their journey. He merely says, “encamped on Blaxland family records, and attached to hisj the ?iJe of a fine Str^nm of water, ir-Ttnn>Mr,cv signed‘copy of the journal I discovered aa very fast'’ (which identifies it as Lowther original letter, written in 1816 by Gregory Creek), and later “ went five miles to the w est­ Blaxland to Sir , which the ward,’ ’ go^ng on imtnediitelv t.o Tnak« tb^ re­ family had not heard of previously, as far marks ouoted at the besrinning of this article. His account o f the return journev, too. is as I know. I enclose you a copy of th* crisp and vivid— 'home’ ’ is the goal, ana the letter referred to, should you consider it of ma.'-r very different from that maintained out­ sufficient interest to publish ia the ‘ Herald.’* wards:— The letter in question is as follows: — I “Struck ou” Tents at Nine o’clock and “ Brit. Mus., M.S. 8958. ] proceeded Home . . . got in our old j Track home, came Ten miles . . . pro- “Sir,—-From some conversation I have had j ceeded home, came seventeen miles . . . with Mr. Vickery, surgeon of the Elizabeth proceeded home, came Eighteen miles . . transport, I find that the business of our and then on the last day, when the blazed tr*ck having passed the mountains and opened th* gave out and they had a very bad time getting interior of the country has either beeti m is­ down to the Nepean through the scrub from represented or not been fully explained iu 3pringwood, England. “ Struck our Teats at Seven o’clock, and “A b it was by your recommendation that proceeded Ten miles, arrived at Emmu I was sent out to settle in the colony, it n.ay Island at four o'clock.” be pleasing to you to hear how far by my To sum up: following Lawson's indications exertions I have been able to remu-nerati the and using the names we know to-day, we may British Government for the expense incurred' roughly identify the successive camp-sites thus:— in my first establishment, which I always iiay 1L Foot of old 24. Near Leura. considered myself bound to attempt tht first Lupstone H ill. May 25. Pulpit Hill. opportunity that might offer. 12. Head of gully 16. Medlow. “The object of attempting a passage over near Karabrar. 27. Almost, oppo­ the Western or Blue Mountains I always con ­ 13 site Mt. Ad­ sidered in a favourable point of view, and to Near Spring- dington. 16. ■* wood. 28. Mt. York. about two years and a half Lefor« I set IT {Near Numan- out on the expedition, in which we suc­ A i Banks of the & (* tia. j Lett, ceeded, I went with three European servants, IS. J 30. J two natives, and one horse to carry provi­ 19. A little past Linden. 31, Lowther Creek sions and necessaries, to explore the back 20. Near w ood - June 1. Foot of Mt, of the low pasture, in which I found I could ford. York. travel with ease by keeping at the heads 21. Near Lawson. 2. Medlow. of the runs of water which emptied them­ 22. On King's 3. Lairson. selves into some river in the interior—to the Tableland. 4. Spring>vooul. westward, as I supposed—but at the same Zi. Near Went­ 5. Emu Island. worth Falls time I found myself turned evidently every R.S. day to the coast eastward, directly contrary to the course I wished to proceed. I had a man In this expedition taken 111, who died on his return. I did not know it. but after­ wards found he was unwell when he set out. | I was, by this accident, foieed to return back many days sooner than I at first in­ tended, although 1 had, for a day or two be­ lOOOICTAlLffPl fore I did return, considertd it impossible to penetrate the interior from the loi* pas- 5 GEORGt I 5 Y D N C .Y !j ture, either with horses or iesi- /AY STATKiMS THIS " RHV WMARVLS. j “ Some time alter which expedition I went up the Western River with a party as far | as we could get with a boat. I then found i that the river ran in th« same direction 1 , had before - travelled, and that the different runs of water I had before headed in the low pasture emptied themselves into that river. "I thej first formed the idea that if 1 could get on the high land on the righthand side I r north bank or tbe Western River, and pursue the same plan of travelling as I had done before, that I must inevitably be carried into the Interior of the country, which idea I mentioned afterwards to his Excellency. He thought It reasonable, and wished me to attempt it, but offered me no asssistance. "I made up my

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