Field Guides Tour Report IN SPRING: , TRADITIONAL MUSIC & PUBS

May 12, 2011 to May 21, 2011 Terry McEneaney

A beautiful setting on the Dingle Peninsula (Photo by guide Terry McEneaney)

Having traveled to Ireland a fair amount, I think it is safe to say every trip to Ireland is different. Around every corner, pasture, bally or town, sea cliff, glen, mountain, forest, city park, national park or pub there is an opportunity for adventure, conversation, or simply sheer fun. One can’t say that for many places in the world. No wonder so many people want to visit the Emerald Isle, and why it is so high on people’s travel or life bucket list. When you add in the birds, the natural beauty, the music, the culture, the pubs, and the people, Ireland is nothing less than a land of enchantment. By this we mean that it continues to hold a magical spell, a charm, like no other place on Earth.

Our Field Guides Birding Plus: Ireland in Spring 2011 tour was no exception. We ended up seeing some of the most dramatic landscapes, seascapes, and skyscapes in southern Ireland, and our list was not too shabby for Ireland before the big hordes of people arrive for the summer. We tallied 98 of birds and 6 species of mammals. Standout birds included the hard to see Sylviidae “Old World warblers” of the genus Phylloscopus (Leaf-Warblers) such as Warbler and Common Chiffchaff, the genus Acrocephalus (Reed-Warblers and Allies) such as Sedge Warbler and Eurasian Reed-Warbler, the genus Sylvia (Old World Warblers) such as Blackcap and , and of the genus Locustella (Grass-Warblers) and the Grasshopper Warbler, the gorilla or stealth fighter of the grasses. Although unfavorable weather conditions prevented us from visiting the Skellig Islands, we still got to see plenty of seabirds (Northern Gannet, Northern Fulmar, Black Guillemot, Common Murre, and Manx Shearwater). What we lost in bird quantity we gained in quality and observation. Most memorable were: the colorful Gray Wagtails feeding young with a waterfall as a backdrop; a White-throated feeding a youngster in a rapid below a beautiful arched stone bridge; Red-billed Choughs harassing Eurasian Kestrels; the amazing acrobatic flying skills of Red-billed Choughs; Red-billed Chough young being fed by adults at a rare sea-cliff nest; killer close-up views and the aerial displays of noisy kiting Sky Larks; the continuous undulating displays of a gorgeous male Hen or Northern (Eurasian) Harrier over mountain heather.

But you always save the best birds for last. We were equally rewarded with wonderful views of in mountain heather. The cock showed his colorful red combs over the eyes, the hen by his side being slightly smaller and more yellowish or gold. Then a Northern Harrier showed up and flushed the brace or pair, allowing us the opportunity to study these same birds in flight as rain and graupel (disfigured snowflakes) came down. But birding is a moment of opportunity as well, and as luck would have it three Red Kites flew straight overhead in the Wicklow Mountains as they weaved in and

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 1 out of approaching rain clouds. One could easily see them hanging suspended in the sky and understand why they are appropriately called kites.

We visited the following: several mountain ranges or slieves; a long beautiful sand spit beach called a strand; quaint isolated sand beaches; castles; round towers; Irish high crosses; the longest river in Ireland (River Shannon); Wicklow Mountains and national parks; mountain lakes; a shibin (pronounced shebeen), an unannounced private pub, for a session.

Lastly, we had some outstanding experiences with the Irish people and their culture. As our group found out, the pubs are the key to experiencing the Irish culture and without question are the social center of every town. We had friends invite us into their farms and their homes, show us historic sites and settings few visitors get to see. We even got to experience a border collie working a herd of sheep, and an out-of-this world experience of traveling in a musician's van. We had people surprise us with songs and impromptu music. We even joined in on an Irish birthday party in a pub.

Our traditional Irish music venues were fabulous, featuring all types of instruments ranging from Uilleann (“Elbow”) pipes, tin whistles, fiddles, and bodrans (skin drums) to accordions, banjos, flutes, and guitars, oftentimes in quaint old-style pubs. It was not your run of the mill tour of Ireland, it was an experience not to be missed and one only the likes this Birding Plus Ireland tour can successfully pull off.

A special thanks to my wife Karen for helping with logistics on this tour. It is nice to have a woman’s touch. Also thanks to drivers Peter and Jeremiah. But most importantly a special thanks to the participants for allowing me the opportunity to show you Ireland. May the wind be forever at your back. And may the sun, shine warm upon you. I’m bound for home! Slan Ahaile! Safe Home!

--Terry

We have more information about this itinerary and future departures on our web page for Ireland in Spring: Birds, Traditional Music & Pubs.

KEYS FOR THIS LIST One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant

BIRDS Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) CANADA GOOSE (Branta canadensis) – A flyover in Wicklow Mountains National Park. (Cygnus olor) – Seen everyday but one. Very common bird. COMMON SHELDUCK (Tadorna tadorna) – Many individuals, mainly seen in SE Ireland. GADWALL (Anas strepera) – One individual observed Lady's island Lake. (Anas platyrhynchos) – One of the most common waterfowl. RED-BREASTED MERGANSER (Mergus serrator) – Two individuals flying . Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies) RING-NECKED PHEASANT (Phasianus colchicus) – Excellent views of very dark rusty-plumaged cocks and accompanying hens. [I] WILLOW PTARMIGAN (RED GROUSE) (Lagopus lagopus scotica) – Super views of this magnificent galliform the color of gold-rust Ireland heather. A brace or pair comprising two individuals total. The red combs over the eyes of the cock were so obvious, as were the golden tinged of the hen. A Northern Harrier flew over the hiding pair, causing them to flush affording us another viewing opportunity. [E] Podicipedidae (Grebes) LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – Several individuals seen on two separate days. GREAT CRESTED GREBE (Podiceps cristatus) – Wonderful views of this large colorful grebe wit gigantic head crests. [N]

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 2 Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels) NORTHERN FULMAR (Fulmarus glacialis) – Wonderful views of this magnificent coastal glider on three separate days. [N] MANX SHEARWATER (Puffinus puffinus) – Distant views on the ocean horizon from Slea Head of a couple individuals coming to an apex then dropping close to the water. Only a few participants were lucky enough to see this species from shore. Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets) NORTHERN GANNET (Morus bassanus) – Many outstanding views of this fabulous bird of black and white contrast. Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) GREAT CORMORANT (ATLANTIC) (Phalacrocorax carbo carbo) – Seen the majority of the days of the tour. EUROPEAN SHAG (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) – Super views on two out of three days. Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea) – Observed many times throughout the tour. LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta) – Seen three out of four days while in SE corner of Ireland. Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) RED KITE (Milvus milvus) – It couldn't have been any better. The way they flew you could see why they are called kites suspended in the skye. Three individuals showed up not too distant overhead trying to work their way around individual rain clouds. They were low enough you could hear them calling. An experience no one will forget of this relatively large raptor. NORTHERN HARRIER (EURASIAN) (Circus cyaneus One of the three High Crosses of Clonmacnoise (ancient center of cyaneus) – Watched an extremely light-colored male Irish scholarship, literature, and art). High cross carvings tell displaying by undulating repeatedly over the heather stories. The circle on the cross represents the sun, since these ancient despite the spirts of grauple and rain. Later it flushed peoples were sun worshipers influenced by Christianity. (Photo by the two Red Grouse that were hiding in the heather. guide Terry McEneaney) EURASIAN SPARROWHAWK (Accipiter nisus) – On Days 1 and 8. Typical of accipiters the views could have been better. COMMON BUZZARD (Buteo buteo) – Seen on the first day en route and near the hotel. Both light and dark morphs observed. Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras) EURASIAN KESTREL (Falco tinnunculus) – Observed on 6 different days. Our best views were of a tiercel (male)and a falcon(female) messing with Red-billed Choughs on the Dingle. What an experience. Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) COMMON MOORHEN (EURASIAN) (Gallinula chloropus chloropus) – Many seen. EURASIAN COOT (Fulica atra) – Many of these crazy birds seen. Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) NORTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus vanellus) – Wonderfull views of these large black and white shorebirds in an Irish blanket . COMMON RINGED PLOVER (Charadrius hiaticula) – Only a couple individuals seen one day. Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers) EURASIAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus ostralegus) – Many seen on four separate days. Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) COMMON REDSHANK (Tringa totanus) – Seen near Lady's Island Lake.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 3 EURASIAN CURLEW (Numenius arquata) – Surprisingly not more seen. BLACK-TAILED GODWIT (Limosa limosa) – Seen on five different days. [b] RED KNOT (Calidris canutus) – Three individuals still hanging around Lady's Island Lake. DUNLIN (Calidris alpina) – Found at Lady's Island Lake. COMMON SNIPE (Gallinago gallinago) – Heard on a couple occasions, especially Day 2. Could barely decipher one in the sky. [*] Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) BLACK-HEADED GULL (Chroicocephalus ridibundus) – Seen on 6 different days. MEW GULL (EUROPEAN) (Larus canus canus) – Mainly found on Inch Strand and on the Dingle. RING-BILLED GULL (Larus delawarensis) – Three individuals found on Inch Strand. HERRING GULL (EUROPEAN) (Larus argentatus argenteus) – Omnipresent coastal gull but one individual even in the mountains. LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL (GRAELLSII) (Larus fuscus graellsii) – Seen 7 of 8 days. GREAT BLACK-BACKED GULL (Larus marinus) – Seen 7 of 8 days. COMMON TERN (COMMON) (Sterna hirundo hirundo) – Many seen on a colony at Ladys' Island Lake. [N] ARCTIC TERN (Sterna paradisaea) – Many seen on a colony at Ladys' Island Lake. [N] SANDWICH TERN (EURASIAN) (Thalasseus sandvicensis sandvicensis) – A few nesting individuals seen. [N] Alcidae (Auks, Murres, and Puffins) COMMON MURRE (Uria aalge) – Seen from shore off Dingle. BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle) – Nice views at Dingle and Portmagee. Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) – Every town has them. STOCK DOVE (Columba oenas) – A few individuals seen days 1 and 2. COMMON WOOD-PIGEON (Columba palumbus) – This monster Wood-Pigeon was seen often and every day. EURASIAN COLLARED-DOVE (Streptopelia decaocto) – Found in nearly every other town we visited, fewer numbers on wilder peninsulas. Cuculidae (Cuckoos) (Cuculus canorus) – Unmistakable sound heard overlooking Black Valley. We got lucky. Their numbers have severely declined over the years. [*] Apodidae (Swifts) COMMON SWIFT (Apus apus) – Surprisingly how numerous this bird is, particularly in old towns. Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies) EURASIAN JAY (Garrulus glandarius hibernicus) – Our best views were in the Wicklow Mountains. We encountered them on three different days. For a jay this bird is extremely secretive and never a given. [E] EURASIAN MAGPIE (Pica pica) – Fairly common throughout Ireland. RED-BILLED CHOUGH (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax) – Observed these sensational acrobatic corvids on two different days, and at least three occasions. One could spend hours watching these birds maneuver the gusty winds of sea cliffs. Our best observations were on the Dingle when a brace of Eurasian Kestrels were being harassed by R-b Choughs. Finding a nest with 2 adults and at least 2 nestlings along a cliff and sand beach was memorable as well. [N] EURASIAN JACKDAW (Corvus monedula) – Daily. [N] ROOK (Corvus frugilegus) – Daily. [N] HOODED CROW (Corvus cornix) – Daily. Found more often near fresh and salt water. COMMON RAVEN (Corvus corax) – Daily. Found in the mountains and along the coast. Killarney National Park and Wicklow Mountains National Park come to mind. Alaudidae (Larks) SKY LARK (Alauda arvensis) – Amazingly close views of this species (30-50 feet) near Portmagee. Also wonderful aerial displays "sky larking".

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 4 Hirundinidae (Swallows) BANK SWALLOW (Riparia riparia) – Found in Killarney NP and along River Shannon. BARN SWALLOW (RUSTICA) (Hirundo rustica rustica) – Daily. COMMON HOUSE-MARTIN (Delichon urbicum) – Super views of this bird on many occasions. [N] Paridae (Chickadees and Tits) COAL TIT (Periparus ater hibernicus) – Found near Glendalough. [E] GREAT TIT (Parus major) – Seen well and often. EURASIAN BLUE TIT (Cyanistes caeruleus) – Seen well and often. One feeding young in a hole in a stone foundation near Dunquin. [N] Certhiidae (Creepers) EURASIAN TREECREEPER (Certhia familiaris) – Seen Day 2 and close in Wicklow National Park. Troglodytidae (Wrens) (Troglodytes troglodytes indigenus) – Omnipresent, whether that be seen or heard. Powerful singer fro such a diminutive bird. [N] Cinclidae () WHITE-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus cinclus hibernicus) – Great looks below a stone bridge of adults and adult feeding Shooting the breeze in a pub (Photo by Karen young. [EN] McEneaney) Regulidae (Kinglets) (Regulus regulus) – Seen on three different days. Our best looks were at Portlaoise ( "Port Liche"). Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers) WILLOW WARBLER (Phylloscopus trochilus) – Heard every day and seen every other day. [b] COMMON CHIFFCHAFF (Phylloscopus collybita) – Heard often, best close views were at Clonmacnoise. [b] Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies) SEDGE WARBLER (Acrocephalus schoenobaenus) – We got to see its barrel chested song flight and good views of this bird on several occasions. [b] EURASIAN REED-WARBLER (Acrocephalus scirpaceus) – We definitely heard it up close , but could not get this bird to show its face. Just one of those days. [b*] Megaluridae (Grassbirds and Allies) COMMON GRASSHOPPER-WARBLER (Locustella naevia) – Found this elusive bird on three different days. Sometimes we got within 10 feet of this bird, but it just wouldn't sit still. [b] Sylviidae (Old World Warblers) BLACKCAP (Sylvia atricapilla) – Seen two days and heard two days. Our best views were in Glen of the Downs. GARDEN WARBLER (Sylvia borin) – Heard and seen on Day 8 near River Shannon and Clonmacnoise. [b] Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers) SPOTTED FLYCATCHER (Muscicapa striata) – Good looks at two individuals in Killarney National Park on the shores of . EUROPEAN ROBIN (Erithacus rubecula) – Everyone falls in love with the European Robin. What a bird to have in anyone's garden. [N] NORTHERN WHEATEAR (Oenanthe oenanthe) – Found on three different days. A handsome bird of contrasting colors. [b] WHINCHAT (Saxicola rubetra) – Found near Banagher on the River Shannon. [N] STONECHAT (EUROPEAN) (Saxicola torquatus rubicola) – Seen but now as good of looks as expected. Many were nesting.

Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 5 Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) EURASIAN BLACKBIRD (Turdus merula) – Seen and heard every day. A fabulous black with yellow bill and eye ring. [N] SONG THRUSH (Turdus philomelos) – Seen every day. Many were found from singing perches in Skibbereen and Killarney National Park. MISTLE THRUSH (Turdus viscivorus) – Best views were at Glenview and leaving Birr heading for Dublin. A giant gray thrush. Sturnidae () EUROPEAN (Sturnus vulgaris) – Found almost everywhere it seems. Very common. [I] Prunellidae (Accentors) DUNNOCK (Prunella modularis) – The "chocolate accentor" otherwise known as the Dunnock. Many great views. Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits) GRAY WAGTAIL (Motacilla cinerea) – Great views of this bird on two occasions. Watched the adult feeding young at a waterfall in Killarney National Park, and near Portlaoise. WHITE WAGTAIL (BRITISH) (Motacilla alba yarrellii) – This is also called the "Pied Wagtail" of the subspecies yarrelli, found exclusively in the and Ireland. A beautiful pied or black and white version of the White Wagtail. MEADOW PIPIT (Anthus pratensis) – Outstanding views. ROCK PIPIT (Anthus petrosus) – Super view st Slea Head. Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies) YELLOWHAMMER (Emberiza citrinella) – Seen two different days. One time a great view of this colorful . REED BUNTING (Emberiza schoeniclus) – Stunning views of this bird of color contrasts-black, white, and rust. Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies) (Fringilla coelebs) – Heard often, best close views were at Clonmacnoise. [N] EUROPEAN GREENFINCH (Chloris chloris) – Stunning views on several occasions, especially in the Wicklow Mountains. EUROPEAN GOLDFINCH (Carduelis carduelis) – Wonderful views of this yellow, black, and red bird in the grass in Killarney National Park. EURASIAN LINNET (Carduelis cannabina) – Our best views of this pinkish-red breasted Carduelis finch with a milk chocolate fudge colored back was near Portmagee. EURASIAN BULLFINCH (Pyrrhula pyrrhula) – Our best views were on the Dingle, and in the town of Adare. Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) – Omnipresent. [I] EURASIAN TREE SPARROW (Passer montanus) – On a back road near Ballycotton.

MAMMALS OLD WORLD RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus) – A few seen mainly near Lady's Island Lake. NORTHERN (BLUE) HARE (Lepus timidus) – A lone individual on Valentia Island. EUROPEAN (Sciurus vulgaris) – On Day 4. RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes) – One lone individual seen sitting in pasture while traveling by bus. (Cervus nippon) – Observed small herd in Killarney NP. RED DEER (Cervus elaphus) – Observed several in Killarney NP.

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS

Totals for the tour: 98 bird taxa and 6 mammal taxa

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