Preston Mountaineering Club Newsletter www.thepmc.org.uk

June 2012 June 2012

Above: Midweek walking group photo on Hutton Roof, March 2012. 2 Front cover: Laura Pringle on the summit of Geall Charn, March 2012 THE PRESIDENT’S BIT THE SECRETARY’S BIT

Welcome to the June newsletter, I hope you For some odd reason I don’t seem to have done have all been enjoying your climbing / walking much with the PMC and half the year’s gone year as much as I have. already! However there seems to be lots of activity and people going off here there and The opening meets of the year have been everywhere which is most encouraging for the followed by more successful, well attended club as a whole. Speaking of activity I hope meets in Thirlmere, Newtonmore, Borrowdale preparations for the Alpine meet are and Deiniolen – see the meet reports later in progressing well? the newsletter. Sam and Dave, not the seventies soul duo I Unfortunately, the Peak meet in April and the hasten to add, are now fully qualified first- Deepdale meet in early June fell victim to the aiders after completing the course with Laura weather. Or, more accurately in the case of the and me under the gentle tutelage of Jason Day, Peak meet, fell victim to the weather forecast, our trainer for the weekend. Even the the actual weather turning out to be far better bandaging bit went well and no-one ended up than predicted. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it looking like an extra for ‘The Mummy’s again – please ignore the forecast and just get Revenge’. So congratulations to both for gaining out there! the one qualification you never want to use although if you see either of them roaming the The additional formal / informal meets on the mountains, hands aloft, loudly crying, first weekend of each month have been a great success with members enjoying days at the “Assess the danger” Manchester Climbing Centre, the North West Fear not, they’ll probably be practising, just Face Climbing Centre in Warrington, Twistleton ignore the latex gloves and do try not to trip Scar and Gowther Crag. Well done to Andy and over the designated casualty! Bill for pulling this together. Finally, last week I received a cheque for one There have also been two successful trips to hundred pounds from the BMCs’ annual grants Scotland over the Spring Bank Holiday week. fund following a speculative begging letter from While the rest of you were toasting Her Majesty yours truly. The committee have a plan for an in the pouring rain, various PMCers were additional development re the website which basking in sunshine on the hills of Glen Coe and this will be put towards, covering any costs Skye - reports to follow in a future newsletter. incurred.

On a sad note, May saw the passing of long Intrigued? Good, now, go and enjoy the photos standing member Ken Thornton who died at and reports. the age of 86 after a short illness. Ken joined the club in the 1950s and became President in Mike 1970. He was made a life member in 2010. I’m sure you will all join me in extending the Club’s condolences to Ken’s widow, Madge. A full MEMBERS’ NEWS obituary appears later in the newsletter. Best wishes from us all to Treasurer Dave who That’s all from me for now. I hope to see you is undergoing lengthy treatment for prostate all on one or two of the summer meets. cancer. He is in good spirits and is looking forward to getting back out to play with the Keith PMC in the not too distant future. June 2012

OBITUARY – KEN THORNTON 1926-2012 I only knew Ken for a short while and did not realise that he wore quite so many hats during by Laura Pringle his life time including ,would you believe it, attending kick boxing class, being a river Sadly one of our long-standing members, Ken warden for County Council, skiing, Thornton, passed away at the end of May aged fly fishing and quite a few others. Ken had a 86 after a short illness. Ken will always be fondly great love for the outdoors and nature and it remembered by those who knew him – always would appear that he made the most of these ready for a chat and a grand sense of humour. interests and together with Madge they made In latter years, Ken was always to be found at many friendships along the way especially the club’s mid-week walking meets – even if it among PMC members past and present. was just for a coffee at the start - but is his I always remember him with a happy smiling younger days was an active member – both out face always ready for a laugh and a joke and a on the hill - leading meets in the Lakes, Wales ‘reet good natter’. He was a stalwart member and Scotland- and within the club committee. of PMC for many years and in that regard did the club proud. I cannot remember a midweek Ken joined the club as a Full Member in meet that he missed despite his age or health. September 1959 and then served two spells on Madge and Ken would always be there even if the committee in the 1960s, became a Vice- it was only to see us all off when they were not President in 1969 and then President in 1970 feeling well enough to join us. serving for a further two years before handing God bless you Ken, You will certainly be missed over the reins to a young Don Hopkin. Ken was by all who knew you”. indeed commended “for his good and enthusiastic work in his first year of office” by I cannot put it any better than Graham. member Tom Meredith at the Annual General Meeting at the ODG, Langdale in December 1970. Ken carried on leading weekend meets MEETS PROGRAM 2013 - IDEAS WANTED? up to 1987. Along with his wife Madge, Ken was awarded Life Member status two years ago in Suggestions for meets for 2013 are requested recognition for their long membership and by the Meets Secretary. contribution to the club. Ken and Madge never missed a club Annual General Meeting and Any suggestions for meet venues are welcome Annual Dinner from the 1950’s onward - until – either for single day meets or weekends. very recently when Ken’s ill health prevented Whilst there are old favourites it is always nice them from coming along. Every AGM Ken would to have ‘new’ places to go and play. always seek me out to say ‘hello’ and catch up on news – he always seemed to have time for Just need to think about a few things – ideally everyone. meets should appeal to walkers and climbers alike – but there are some which are very much Graham Winfield tells us that “twelve PMC ‘walking meets’ (e.g. Trough of Bowland) and members turned out for Ken’s funeral at those which more loosely are seen as ‘climbing Accrington Crematorium on 8th June and meets’ – e.g. Peak (though why this is so I do afterwards refreshments were served in the not know – only once in 20 + years have I known pub across the road where a lively gathering any walkers to come along on a Peak Meet!!!) remembered him and regretted his passing. Madge appreciated our support and kind words Things to think about when suggesting a venue and our hearts and prayers go out to her at this – for day meets is there plenty of parking ( e.g. sad and distressing time. a lay-by for 4 cars is probably not an ideal RV),

4 Preston Mountaineering Club length of time to travel to RV, time of year – WEBSITE: WWW.THEPMC.ORG.UK access in snow and ice can be impossible. For The website has been revamped recently. I weekend meets is there accommodation? e.g. hope you find it easier to use. The password for YHA, independent hostel, campsite, again time the ‘Members Only’ section is edipol, a local of year – not many want to camp in January! – route. The Members Only section is there parking for anyone coming for the day contains copies of the newsletters back to 2002. nearby etc. Where’s the pub?!!! As the cost of newsletter is a significant fraction Please don’t suggest huts which we cannot of your membership fee, they are only afford or are too big a financial risk as I don’t accessible with the above password. want to offend anyone by rejecting these. After all these years I know most of the ones we can use – but there may be others I don’t. And if you are suggesting a meet please consider BULLETIN BOARD offering to be MC too! The bulletin board linked off the website is a Please don’t leave suggestions until the AGM good place to look for meet updates, midweek meeting – by then the card is decided for the walking and climbing as well as Club coming year. A lot of places I have to book 12 announcements and general chat. or 18 months or more in advance to make sure To post messages, you must sign up for we get a booking so things do take a bit of membership (this is independent of your forward planning.’ membership of the PMC and anybody, even non-PMC members, can sign up). However, there is also a PMC Members only section, which appears when you log onto the board, PMC NOW IN THE ELECTRONIC AGE!!! but only once Mike or Ian have manually added Not only can you browse the website, read you to the PMC Members group - please be these newsletters online, use the bulletin patient! If nothing happens within a few days, borad, you can also use electronic payment for drop Mike an email... subs, hut fees etc. It saves both you, the Club and it’s officials time (and money!). As Keith (so inelegantly?) put it: “Either log on to bank account, pay, logout. 2-3 minutes. Or, print CLUB LIBRARY form off, find pen and fill it in, search for The library is held by Gordon Semple in cheque book, write out cheque, search for Garstang. Contact him if you would like to address, envelope and write out, walk to post browse the books. Gordon has also produced a office, stand in queue to buy stamp, post – half web page listing the contents. It is regularly an hour of my life gone when I could be doing updated. It is in the members’ area of the main interesting stuff!!” website – see above. A downloadable pdf Also, there is a ‘Facebook’ page too - link on version is also available there. website. However, a plea from the Treasurer! If you are paying electronically, please put a reference on the payment - your surname - so that Dave can figure out where/what it is for.

5 June 2012

NEWTONMORE - 2ND – 5TH MARCH 2012 sad noises we eschewed the possibility of a cafe stop and headed off into the forest again (it is a very big forest and we lost Mike for a while WHO STOLE THE SNOW? as he got a bit behind and turned the wrong by Laura Pringle way at a junction of tracks – he could have been in there for hours). We followed parts of the Newtonmore Meet – How fickle is our weather? Speyside Way and some lovely single track to The last few years we have enjoyed good winter arrive in Nethy Bridge. Viv’s pleas this time we conditions on this, now regular, weekend at heeded as it was raining a bit now and we were Newtonmore - but an unseasonal warmth and duly accommodated as the sole occupants at dryness meant that there was a distinct lack of the Nethy Bridge Hotel in front of a nice fire and the white stuff - the Northern Corries looked lots of hot coffee. beautifully bare on the internet which meant that any snow/ice climbing was non-existent The next several miles were spent going uphill except high on the Ben. Undaunted, the PMC – the only respite being a butty stop in the descended once again upon the excellent hostel peace of the forest. Ian was going down with a at Newtonmore. Pete who built and ran the virus he’d caught off his Mrs and was starting hostel for donkey’s years had his wish fulfilled to feel a bit off. It was a long, but very scenic this year and had been able to retire after haul through the Ryvoan Pass with ever selling the place. Fortunately, the new owners, expansive views of the Cairngorms which were a consortium of two couples, are outdoor folk at last staring to clear. I think all of us were glad and don’t really want to change the place that to finally reach the summit and enjoy the much. So new boy Neil duly welcomed us and descent to Ryvoan Bothy for another brew stop we settled in and made plans. before the final (downhill) hammer back to Glenmore. We covered 25 miles and 2,500 ft of The forecast for Saturday was not the best with ascent. cloud, high winds and showers threatened. Not ideal weather for the plateau or other high John, Keith, Andy and Chris had opted to do places really. I floated the option of a mega bike Sgurr Gaoth (1118m), a Munro above Glen expedition through the Abernethy Forest – Feshie. From the track end near Achlean they takers were myself and Mike, Jason & Viv and headed up over Carn Bac Mor to the summit. Ian. So, on a gorgeous and warm morning at Sadly they didn’t get any views and reported it Glenmore we parked up, prepped the bikes and to be very cold with rain, hail and snow showers girded our loins, or whatever came to hand making it rather unpleasant. Return was made (what is a loin anyway – a pork chop? – and how by Coire Ruadh to pick up the path below Meall do you gird it?). It was wonderfully peaceful in Tionail and Geall Charn. the forest as we made our way down Glenmore Sam, Dave and Donald went to the Northern towards Aviemore. Dr Ian screeched to a halt, Corries for the Fiacaill Ridge and experienced as did we all wondering if he had a mechanical the same unpleasant weather high up. Having problem, but he was merely investigating some got to the steepening in the ridge near the top mating frogs. We headed north and climbed they took the easier route round the side due over An Sluggan (felt like An Sloggan) and I the strength of the wind as they had no wish to temporarily had us going the wrong way due to visit Coire an’t Sneachda by the direct route not reading the map with my glasses on. down! Good choice by the bikers methinks! Suitably chastised, we found the excellent descent towards Kincardine Cottage and the Sunday’s forecast was little better, but with less road to Boat of Garten. Despite Viv’s pleas and wind, and no-one was keen to experience the

6 Preston Mountaineering Club poor conditions up top again too quickly. Poor the forecast for Monday was rather good. Ian, feeling even more unwell, decided to head Sadly, Jason and Viv had to leave today to get off home and his bed as he’d again had no back to work – good to see you guys! sleep. Viv, Jason and Keith went for an excursion on the Corbett overlooking Mike and I were up really early on the strength Glenmore, Meall a Buachaille, with the of that forecast and we were so glad we did – intention of doing the whole ridge traverse. blue skies, no wind and not too cold – would it However, Viv distracted the boys from their last? Our objective was Geal Charn (1049m) – original plan with the lure of apple strudel at a Munro on the south side of Loch Laggan (I’d Glenmore cafe – probably in revenge for the missed out on that one several years ago with refusal to detour to Boat of Garten Cafe the Ian when huge blizzards and deep snow meant previous day. And of course, the male of the we were running out of time). We also had an species doesn’t like upset the female, so they option if time, and legs, permitted of carrying had to give in. on over Beinn a Chlachair next door. Our bikes came to the fore again as the track leading to Sam and Dave went to Laggan Wolftrax and the start near Loch na h’Earbha is excellent and tested their metal, amongst other things, on ride-able all the way - it saves about 1.5 hours the trails there which they found lots of fun – of extra walking on the way in and another 1.5 well, Sam more than Dave as he is a regular hours out. We were soon at the foot of the rider but Dave found that his less frequent good stalker’s path leading towards Bealach outings meant the saddle had left a bigger Leamhain where we could leave the bikes in the imprint on his nethers than he’d have heather and with a steady plod we gained preferred. height well. Seemingly out of nowhere, a large bank of cloud closed in on us. Overnight there Myself and Mike went biking again this time in had been quite a dump of snow at higher the Inshriach Forest near Kingussie from Liath altitudes and soon we were in cloud AND in Lochan towards Drumguish. A slight diversion fresh soft snow which was quite deep in places. was necessitated as our route was covered in Geal Charn is quite a rounded hill so navigation fallen trees from one of the big storms Scotland isn’t easy as there are few landmarks to go by had experienced over the winter. Then the and there were little outcrops and hollows route climbs over the top to the lonely but necessitating constant veering off course. We beautiful Coire Fhearnasdail where we sat in a were cursing that on such a lovely morning we sheepfold in the wintry sun having a bit to eat should end up in the clag... judicious use of the and being glad we were not up top as the compass was necessary. It is difficult to gauge plateau looked a cold, cloudy bleak place with progress on such terrain and in such conditions a fresh sprinkling of snow higher up. The last but we kept plodding. Suddenly there was a climb took us over to Glen Feshie and the nice little bit of warmth and a glimpse of blue sky – road run back to our start point. would it, could it??? Yes, it did - we had just crested the summit ridge and could now see Donald had gone for a wander about in the the summit not too far off with a lovely looking Monadh Liath but hadn’t ventured anywhere snow slope leading all the way up to it – nice high up. John, Andy and Chris had gone up into hard neve – easy to walk on and the views the Northern Corries but too late a start left opening up all the time. Most excellent! We them short of time so sadly it was a bit of an both commented on our fortune as finding the abortive day for the trio. summit would have been a tad difficult if it hadn’t cleared! We spent a bit of time at the The pub saw a grand gathering that evening and summit savouring the view in the warm beer was consumed – though not too much as

7 June 2012 sunshine with the ice on the trig point melting And so our cracking three days were duly visibly. We pondered over continuing to Beinn celebrated that evening in the pub. Just goes to a Chlachair but now we could see the rather show that with a flexible plan, a sense of large drop we’d have to take and the slog back humour and much derring-do, the PMC can up and given the soft snow we’d encountered make any meet a great affair. so far we decided against it – we’d be running the clock too close. Save it for another day. Thanks to those who made the long trip north However, we did take in Creag Pitridh – the one – it’s already booked again for next year... and I had done with Ian all those years before – but our hosts, Sue and Neil thanked us for being a Mike hadn’t done it and it wasn’t much re- great group – they said it was hard to believe ascent and it was nice to have a view this time we’d been there for best part of four days the too. All that was left was to retrace our steps place was so clean and tidy! back down to the bikes and a super downhill swoop back to Loch Laggan. How very satisfying Those who came: Ian B, Jason & Viv, Sam, Dave indeed. R, Chris, John, Andy, Keith and myself and Mike. Sorry that Treasurer Dave couldn’t make it due Meanwhile, John, Chris and Keith had gone for to health problems – get better soon Dave! Bynack Mor (1090m) from Glenmore via Bynack Stable. Stable is a rather grandiose term for what was in essence a corrugated metal shed with three sides providing a modicum of shelter BORROWDALE - 24TH/25TH MARCH 2012 for a desperate horse. It is no longer there – it blew away one night in a big storm sometime by Sam Brook between 2004 and 2008! They found some new snow up top but not as much had fallen as Well early in the week I was a bit disappointed further west where we had been. Return was to be packing away my shiny new winter kit made via the same route. The guys reported an having only used it on a couple of occasions, excellent, brisk walk with great views, breezy but with the early weather forecast looking and cold but plenty of sunshine and great views. good for the Borrowdale meet my attention Brisk – they must have run the time it took them quickly returned to summer climbing. With the to do it! weather forecast getting better as the week went on my excitement was growing, this was Sam and Dave, in training for the Alps this amplified by a quick mid-week shopping trip to summer, went for an epic outing going over via buy some new half ropes in Cotswolds sale! It Coire Raibert on Cairngorm down into the Loch was decided at the wall that it would be a crime Avon basin before scrambling up the other side to not get out on the Friday afternoon on the by Shelter Stone Crag and over to Ben Macdui way to Borrowdale and so a stop off at Warton (1309m) before making a return direct to Coire Upper was arranged. Cas. Much respect boys - that was a big outing in the new snow! So the meet kicked off at 2pm on Friday with Chris and John arriving at Warton Upper shortly Not to be left out, Andy and Donald hired bikes followed by Myself, Dave, and Donald. in Aviemore and went off into the Abernethy Fortunately for my party, we arrived at the crag Forest over to Nethy Bridge and back. Neither foot just in time to laugh at John and Chris being in possession of the requisite padded discussing how they had managed to forget to shorts meant that they were walking a bit oddly bring a rope up the hill "Well you said you when they got back for reasons which it is best would bring it!" "I thought you said you had it". not to discuss here. Fortunately for them Donald had carried up a

8 Preston Mountaineering Club spare to lend and so began a couple of hours Feeling a little bemused at pitches that felt climbing in the Friday afternoon sun. Following more like a stroll through the woods than a a nervous start to the climbing year (at least for climb, I began convincing Dave that climbing me) confidence quickly grew and a flurry of easy harder grades was actually easier (a theory I solos in the last 20 minutes doubled the route sort of stick by to a point) as the rock can be count for the day. cleaner, they are steeper so less to fall on and the climbing is more technical and flowing. With From there it was on to Borrowdale with just Dave still not total convinced at my argument enough light to spare to put up the tents. Fresh we set about our first multipitch above the back from his trip to Austria, Jeremy strolled up Severe grade with the two pitches of Fishers to the campsite to meet us and then we all met Folly (VS, 4c, 4c). Dave lead the first pitch in fine later in the Riverside bar behind the Scafell style (his first at VS) and finished with the Hotel. traverse, we both agreed it was an excellent climb well worthy of the 3* it gets in the guide. Saturday morning saw the arrival of Ian Bradley at the campsite. Ian, John and Chris made a With Dave's finger still recovering from an separate party and headed to Black Crag for an injury at the wall and the added fatigue of the ascent of the 3* Lake District classic, Troutdale harder Fishers Folly he felt it prudent to finish Pinnacle (S). I assume this time they took a rope on a high and give it some rest for the Sunday. otherwise they are all keeping quite! With that I lead Kransic Crack (VS 4c) followed up by Bill. The first section up the crack felt very Donald, Dave, Jeremy and I headed to strenuous and I was glad of the rest when I Shepherds Crag for another glorious day in the gained the top of the flake. Following the ascent sun. Dave and I managed to get straight on to of the main crack I think the combination of Little Chamonix (3* VD) which we were fatigue, faffing around and the onset of nerves followed up by Donald and Jeremy. The second lead me to traverse too far to the right, possibly pitch was a bit non existent but the top two up the polished last pitch of Chamonix (HS), pitches were excellent. however it all still felt hard and I made it to the top in the end. Dave and I then headed to Donkey's Ears (2* S) which was quite an adventure with the second Prospective new member Ian Thomson pitch ascending through a cave. Unfortunately unfortunately had car trouble but eventually I went too far on the third pitch leaving Dave made it to the crag at about 11am where he with an unprotected traverse finale that felt could not recognise anyone from the club (we above the Severe grade. were probably all on Little Chamonix at the time). Not wanting to waste the drive and the Meanwhile, elsewhere on the crag Jeremy had weather he took himself for a walk before talked Donald into leading up the 3* Ardus, heading home. I think for the benefit of new unbeknown to Donald at the time to be 3 members maybe an airport style PMC logo pitches of MVS (4a, 4a, 4b). could be placed with tents at the campsite and Back over in the Chamonix area Bill and Sally bags at the Crag at future meets. had arrived and began an ascent of the classic Happy with our achievements so far for the first Little Chamonix followed by Chris and John who outdoors weekend of the year, we headed back had come over from Black Crag to finish the day to camp for tea and then on to The Langstrath at Shepherds. Inn for some liquid refreshment.

9 June 2012

Sunday brought more fine weather and it was Thank you to all who attended and let's hope decided to head up The Combe to Raven Crag. the rest of the climbing year is as good as this Car trouble continued to be the theme with the fantastic start. prospective new members on Sunday with Emma and Octavia being unable to make it up to Borrowdale for the day. We did however find Gordon at the campsite. He had been staying at the YHA which apparently felt more like a DEINIOLEN - MAY 12TH -13TH sauna than a hostel. He had been walking up High Raise on the Saturday but missed us in the WILL IT LAST pub Saturday night. Gordon came along for a walk up to Raven Crag, although I don't think by Andrew Crompton and Sam Brooks he will be following me again in a hurry after a slight navigational error saw his brief return to Woke up to fabulous, clear and sunny, Friday climbing! morning; will it last, I thought. Chris, John and I arranged to car share for the On reaching the crag, Bill & Sally, John & Chris, journey down to Wales, and at 1400hrs they and Donald & Jeremy all made ascents of the arrived. On way to Deiniolen, we discussed long Corvus (3* D) while myself and Dave various routes to climb, in Cwm Idwal and Cwm avoided the cues with an ascent of Raven Crag Cneifion in the valley of Ogwen, which would Buttress (3* VD). Perhaps somewhat stupidly, help in preparation for the upcoming Alpine trip I suggested we climbed in big boots to assess to Chamonix. Grade three to one scrambles, their potential, this made the climbing Very long walks or all out climbing routes, after much Difficult (as the grade would suggest). I discussion, combination of scrambling and managed it to the top in my nimble B2's, climbing was the order of the weekend. Routes however, lets just say that Dave's massive B3 to be decided upon later! leather double boots didn't just make is feet warm but also left him hot under the collar. We We arrived in Llanberis about 1600hrs headed concluded that they would be quite at home at straight to Pete’s Eats for refreshments. Having high altitude on snow and ice, but not so good been reinvigorated with tea and tiffin, Chris on a VD in the lakes in summer conditions. went into a shopping frenzy (Sam, you have a Fortunately a quick change back to rock boots rival) buying boots and other bits and bobs. at the top of pitch 2 restored his confidence. When we eventually managed to persuade The climb itself offered some good exposure on Chris away from the shops, we continued pitches 2 & 3 but it was generally vegetated and journey on to LMC hut. On arrival sun was still pitch 4 was almost non existent, would maybe shining! Again, will it last, I thought. have viewed it in a better light had we been in rock boots from the start. An hour later Ian joined us, some time after that Dave and Sam arrived after climbing at Castle One of the highlights of the weekend was Inn Quarry. More on that later! cracking open a beer back at the campsite, just Discussion resumed over Saturday route/s. relaxing in the last of the days sun while waiting Mention had been made of climbing Idwal for Donald and Jeremy to return from Raven, slabs, traversing down to and climbing up with the winter boots removed, and feeling sub-Cneifion arête then traversing up to tired but pleased that we had got the most out Cneifion arête summit and walk down; of an extraordinarily pleasant three days in ambitious we knew. March.

10 Bill and Sally Wiseman with The Dudh’s Ridge in the background. Did he say that it was sunny on Skye?

Andy Compton on pitch 1 of Hope, Idwal Slabs The Northern Cairngorm corries looking south across Loch Morlich from near Glen More on the Cairngorms meet 2012.

From the left, Cairngorm with Coire Cas ski area below, Coire an t-Sneachda, Coire an Lochan and Lurcher’s Crag (Creag an Leth-choin) at far right. The Northern Cairngorm corries looking south across Loch Morlich from near Glen More on the Cairngorms meet 2012.

From the left, Cairngorm with Coire Cas ski area below, Coire an t-Sneachda, Coire an Lochan and Lurcher’s Crag (Creag an Leth-choin) at far right.

Photo: Dave Richards Above: Crinkle Crags from Pike O’Blisco.

Right: Laura Pringle on the tricky rocky descent near the Ryvoan Bothy Preston Mountaineering Club

It was this combination of routes which Ian, We did the route in four pitches as described Chris, John, Steve, Mark and I would climb. in Rock climbing in Snowdonia by Paul Williams. I lead the first, alternating pitches, with Ian Other routes around Tryfan had been mooted finishing up the quartzy rock to the exit days earlier. Sam, Dave and Tom would climb scramble. these because, in their own words, “we want the ‘mileage’.” Good on you lads!! As Ian was the only person to know the way off the slabs we waited for the others to catch up. Saturday morning was upon us and the Sun was John had been nursing a shoulder injury and out, happiness exuded throughout the group. was making slow progress because of it. All fuelled up , the Idwal party set off. Bright Eventually, we all made it off Idwal and grabbed and early! As we got closer to Cwm Idwal the a bite to eat and drink. Sun was obscured by cloud. Is this it, rain and Suitably replenished, we traversed down to poor visibility on the way, I thought. No, it was Sub-Cneifion arête (VD) and began the ascent. localized high cloud which would linger on and Ian lead the first and second pitches as I was off for most of the morning, eventually thinning finding this delicate and balanced climbing and clearing by noon. difficult, due to borrowed rock boots and 60 litre rucksack I was wearing (“get the excuses The delight in this early start was evident in in early”). In contrast, John and the others were Ian’s face, as we were the first at the Slabs. His finding this easier than Idwal; therefore, delight was complete when he realized I was progress up the arête was quicker. Have to say, his partner. John and Chris partnered and Steve Ian made rapid ascent of these pitches and and Mark partnered. made it look effortless, in fact he’d been climbing like that all morning. Praise, when Hope (VD***) was the route chosen to praise is earned. surmount the slab. Me and Ian, along with John and Chris would start the route the traditional On reaching final pitch I had to make another way, while Steve and Mark would start the attempt at leading, this was crux of climb. climb following the groove just to the left. Having pulled up around the nose and Mistake! traversing delicately right round a corner to the crack I began to struggle on easier rock. It was While Ian and I were getting ready to climb the a section which required smearing feet and as second pitch, we heard deep and heavy sighs I wasn’t 100% confident in the boots, I faltered. (the sort associated with blummin frustration) Having deliberated and attempting the move emanating from a groove just below us. for twenty minutes, conceded defeat. I made a hanging belay at this point; Ian came up and We looked down to see ‘little Steve,’ struggling duly completed the climb. John and Chris to exit the damp and dirty groove. We asked if followed. On summiting, Chris informed us everything was alright and do you need any Steve and Mark had headed back to car. Steve help, response was, “finding this awkward at told us later he was feeling a bit sluggish, earlier the moment, I’ll be fine, you carry on,” or words exertion had taken its toll. to that effect. So, we carried on! Despite the quicker ascent it was still 16.45, if With a height of six feet eight inches and a we continued climbing to plan, return to car reach well in excess of nine feet, Steve would have been 20.00 – 20.30. Ian quickly eventually managed to climb his way out the worked out we’d already climbed over a groove. thousand feet. Do we really need a late return;

15 June 2012 we’re here for weekend after all? We all looked it hard I’m certainly going to today, I thought. at each other with the same understanding, not However, after completing second pitch we that any of us were tired, feeling the need for both began to loosen up. Muscles not mind. drink, a drink, we descended. Concentration is paramount on all routes regardless of grade we both reiterated from We met up with Steve and Mark back at Ogwen time to time. This became all the more evident cottage car park. Having bid farewell to Mark, when once large but solid flakes now moved. I only joining us for the day, we headed to Pen Y began to ascend the final pitch with extra Gwryd pub for a pint or two. caution, didn’t want to pull off any loose flakes with other climbers behind. On the summit the At the pub while drinking cwrw glaslyn and elation was palpable we’d both had good climb cwrw medog from the bragdy mws piws (purple without incident and a weekend with good moose brewery), fine and highly recommended memories. After short reflection we descended bitters, we gave each other the usual and journeyed home. congratulatory smug pat on the back. Although we hadn’t achieved our objective a thousand It did last and what a super weekend in Wales feet plus of climbing with a large group did and what a contrast in weather to previous merit a pint and slap on the back. weeks, from Friday night to Sunday evening weather absolutely glorious. Gods were smiling. Arriving back at the hut ahead of the other party we had tea and reflected more on day’s I asked Sam if he could do a little report about events, how individually we could improve and his, Dave and Tom’s exploits, he kindly obliged. hone our climbing techniques.

Other party got back to the hut late evening and SAM’S ‘JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE Sam, without to much prompting, began to tell EARTH’ us about their ‘journey to the centre of the earth.’ More on that later! “IT’S A JULES VERNE EPIC”

Sunday was upon us, alas, and the Sun was still Friday Night shining. The agenda for the day was divided into I bought myself the A55 Sport Climbing guide three, Ian and I would climb Wrinkle (S***), book and so Dave and I stopped at Castle Inn Sam, Dave and Tom climbed Crackstone Rib Quarry on the way down to try our hand at (S4a***), on Carreg Wastad in Llanberis pass. some limestone sports routes. It was John and Chris headed back towards Ogwen to surprisingly good, with the routes literally climb Tryfan north ridge (1***). Breakfast was starting in the car park and only quickdraws eaten. Hut was tidied, nearly everyone helped, being required it was the ultimate in “arrive and didn’t they CC. Time to climb! climb”. Word of warning, take the grade you climb indoors down a couple of notches to start Parking opposite Carreg Wastad, we gathered with as the brilliant “Route 1” F5+ felt harder our gear and ascended to the crag as fast as than your average 5+ in West View. The Crag possible, a father and his two children were was well equipped with lots of new bolts and heading towards same route. No! Quick! good lower offs. It was really enjoyable and relaxed to be climbing harder moves than we Disaster averted Ian began the climb. “route would normally outdoors in relative safety, feels more difficult than when I last climbed however, we are not going soft, you don’t quite it [1977!], yesterday’s efforts not helping,” Ian get the sense of achievement you do in trad exclaimed. “Great,” I replied. If you’re finding when you and your partner have completed a

16 Preston Mountaineering Club hard route and left nothing on the route behind may not be a regular occurrence, so after lots you. Would definitely put some sport routes on of umm-ing and ahh-ring I took off my rucksack my agenda for a Friday night on route stop off and went for it as we were about to set off; it in the future. was easy in the end, the key was not to think about it. Saturday With the Alps looming and plenty of climbing We then left Tryfan and headed for the North already bagged so far this year Dave and I had West face of Glyder Fach. The route we were decided on a long day of hard scrambling with heading for was The Chasm Face (3***) which the aim of getting some miles in. Tom arrived required an approach up the grade 1 gully early Saturday morning for his first Club which itself presented another move I felt was weekend meet and headed out to Tryfan with high in the grade, a chock stone blocking our Dave and me. path which required us to collectively work out the problem. In the end the move wasn’t too Classic grade 3 scrambles with a bit of rope difficult but was exposed and we reached the work practice was the aim of the game and we ledge at the start of Chasm Face. started the day by moving together on the Tryfan Fach Scramble (3**). This was a nice I took the lead on this one as we roped up for route on good clean rock which presented no the exposed step out above the Chasm. Rather major technical difficulties. From here we than moving together we took more of an headed to the Heather Terrace to pick our next improvised method of pitching this route as the challenge. bottom sections were exposed and felt more like D/VD climbing. This route was brilliant! It Nor' Nor' Buttress Variant (3**) was selected was a real adventure that required nerves and as our route up the majority of Tryfan and Dave brains to get to the top with all our kit. The first took the lead on this one, again moving few sections included exposed moves above together. An interesting route with some quite the chasm, a steep wall with swinging moves technical moves interspersed with some not so on good holds, a cat walk, and a technical wall interesting heathery ledges. I personally found on a slippery gully. the hardest section of this route was when it joined the grade 1 gully for a section and a All this brought us to what appeared to be a wedged boulder had to be awkwardly dead end with only a steep technical chimney, overcome, I actually slipped off this and hurt a rock bridge, and a less obvious tight cave as my arm but didn’t go far. As we were almost at possible escape options. As the guide book the North Ridge scramble (1***) we packed stated “head into the bowls of the mountain” away the rope, before tackling one final serious that is what I did, and after taking off my move that dropped us on the North Ridge at rucksack headed into the cave lying on my side the notch. We then headed up the North Ridge until I could stand up at the back about 3 meters to the summit of Tryfan where I scared myself in. Now this cave was tight, when stood up it as I thought I would unnecessarily keep things was not possible to turn round. The cave was interesting by going up a chimney close to the also dark and cold. I had shimmied in moving top. to my left as far as I could and now had no where to go but an even tighter crack running After 20 mins on the summit of building up 90° to the one I was in, located just behind my courage as we ate our sandwiches, I made the left shoulder. At this point a long period of time last min decision to jump Adam and Eve, the past as I questioned whether we were on the conditions were perfect and I suspected that right route and repeatedly tried all sorts of

17 June 2012 moves to progress into this crack. I had to take having breakfast with some of the LMC lads in my helmet off just bend my head enough into Pete’s Eats in Llanberis. We then headed up the this crack to see there was some light. pass to Carreg Wastad where we were second Eventually, after taking off the gear I was in the queue for the Classic Crackstone Rib carrying and all the coils of rope round my chest (S4a***). It was well worth the wait in the I could just about make it into next crack, it was queue, great route on lovely clean rock, with that tight I could do a full body jam by pushing great position on the exposed yet protected rib. my chest and belly out. I was round the corner I lead the climb in two pitches bringing Dave and as I past the initial contraction the cave and Tom up on twin ropes for speed. I felt 100x began to widen. I was now stood at the bottom more comfortable on this route than on some of a 7-10 m chimney which got wider and wider sections of the previous days scrambling. With towards the top making a fall back into the the classic in the bag and the weather drawing wedge at the bottom not a very exciting in, we headed back to the hut with the LMC lads prospect. A heel hook in my B2’s saw me out for a spot of lunch before heading back to of the chimney and I flopped out onto the top Lancashire. in the sun, I had probably been in the cave over an hour and literally felt like Joe Simpson as he Quality Hut and a great weekend despite being escapes the dark crevasse into glorious sun the first club meet where I have not set foot in shine in touching the void. I then set about a pub! retrieving our kit by using the rope to haul our bags up the unclimbable wall (for us) on the Foot note: outside of the cave. With a good belay setup Fear not members, the matter of Sam, Dave and and our packs secured I brought Tom and Dave Tom’s lack of commitment to club ethos has up through the cave and chimney, both making been addressed. very light work of it each doing it in about 5-10 mins, perhaps I will go on a diet before attempting this again! It was a real adventure and a team effort to get us all and our kit to the OVER THE SEA ON SKYE top of this section. by Bill Wiseman

The scrambling from here to the summit was Yes I know the lyrics state over the sea “to” Skye much more straight forward and we arrived at but Sally, Chris, Nigel and myself were already the top of Glyder Fach at about 7:30pm. The on Skye. Read on! sun was low in the sky, the light was beautiful, it was perfectly clear and we were the only In case someone is reading this that hasn’t ones there. We got the obligatory cantilever bumped into me over the past couple of weeks stone photo and began our descent back to the we had a full week of sun on Skye. An awesome car via Gribin Ridge. We didn’t get the vast week. Great days on the Cuillins, magical amounts of miles in as we intended but by the sunsets and a light breeze to blow those little time we reached the car we had been on our blood-suckers away. feet for over 11 hours and felt completely knackered, Tom was asleep within about 5mins For our last day on the hills we decided to do of getting in the car on the way back to the hut. the Sgurr Dubh Slabs, up over the top of Sgurr Dubh Beag and Sgurr Dubh Mor and down into Sunday Glen Brittle. Described by many as one of the After a big day on the Saturday we fancied best mountaineering days out in Britain and a something easier so Tom, Dave and I started by route I’d wanted to do for years. The “slabs”

18 Preston Mountaineering Club rise out of Loch Coruisk and climb in a majestic After a glorious couple of hours we arrived at 30 degree sweep to the summit of Sgurr Dubh the summit of Sgurr Dubh Beag. Still blue skies Beag at 733m. Scrambling all the way on finger and expansive views out over a glistening ocean lacerating, velcro like Gabbro rock. to far isles. Our water taxi from the morning was a tiny dot returning on its lunch-time Getting to the base of the slabs is an adventure. schedule. You can walk in via Sligachan or Glen Brittle but both of these require a day in itself. We decided If you have been on the Cuillins then you will to “boat” it in. There are regular daily sailings know that reaching the top of something from Elgol to Loch Coruisk in the summer so this certainly doesn’t mean things are going to get was easier to organise than I thought it was easier. We now had a 22m abseil down to a col going to be. £12.50 each got us a 9.00am followed by the ascent of Sgurr Dubh Mor at sailing. This was a glorious 45minute trip on the 994m with ridge scrambling and route finding Misty Isles Launch. There were faster boats but difficulties mentioned in the guide. Oh well! this one captured the romance of the location. Onward and downward then upward then Clear blue skies, a mill-pond ocean and seals downward then upward etc…. and sea birds close enough to touch. The operation was a family affair with Mrs Birdseye Sally had only done a couple of abseils before in the ticket office, Captain Birdseye at the and didn’t fancy the “off-centre” nature of this wheel and their son providing coffee and one (and the couple of overhangs en-route) so biscuits and giving a really knowledgeable I lowered her down from above after Nigel had commentary. Over the bow of the boat getting sorted out the rigging and checked the line ever closer, and bigger, was the magnificent down. Chris cruised it. Dubh Ridge. Sally was relaxed and confident A combined route-finding effort to the top of until we pointed out that “no it wasn’t that little Sgurr Dubh Mor worked out really well. We one, it’s that one!” stuck to the ridge as much as possible then followed angled weaknesses in the rock up onto The walk in to the base of the slabs was reduced the summit. Wow! The Cuillin Ridge was laid to 30minutes. Just about the best £12.50 I’d out in all its glory before us. In full view….North ever spent. We found the start easily. Up a and South! Tiny dots could be seen on top of short gully, up a few steeper moves and onto jagged peaks. The Inaccessible Pinnacle looking the slabs proper. The descent off the top of like a sharks fin protruding from what was Sgurr Dubh Beag requires a 20m abseil so we already “Striding Edge” ridge. Gorgeous! had a rope and harnesses with us. On the climb up the slabs I had half of it coiled loosely in the We sort of felt that we had cracked it at this top of my sack. I climbed above Sal and just point even though the scrambling was still lowered it too her when she needed it. This steep and exposed. I had to get the rope out a wasn’t very often but it meant we could find couple of times but the seriousness of our the more interesting sections. ie. steeper. For situation decreased as the polish on the rock large sections of the route if you had the from the main ridge traffic increased. We had confidence to stand up and “walk” with your still not joined the main ridge proper but Sgurr body weight passing through the soles of your Dubh Mor was a Munro and as such attracts feet then the going was fast and easy. Sally was significant foot-fall. wearing her 5:10 scrambling shoes with sticky rubber. On Gabbro this was like wading through Another 20 minutes scrambling and we joined treacle. the main ridge. Harnesses off, the few nuts and slings I had carried packed away and rope

19 June 2012 coiled. Someone else could carry it down! We FAIRFIELD (7,20,NE) made a sharp left turn (South) and descended GREATCALVA(25,15,W) the ridge to “The Castle”. Once around its base GREATDODD(21,21,W) we dropped down steep boulders and scree GREATEND(15,18,E) into Loch Cior a Ghrunnda where Chris took the GREATGABLE(7,22,E) lead remembering the steep route down the GREENGABLE(3,1,SE) slabs onto the main path to Glen Brittle from a GREYKNOTTS(23,13,S) few years previous. HARRISONSTICKLE(2,3,S) HELVELLYN(22,9,N) We were all feeling tired by now but at this HELVELLYNLOWMAN(1,1,SE) point we picked up the pace and route-marched HIGHRAISE(5,1,SE) it down towards Glen Brittle. We had arranged HINDSCARTH(18,1,SW) to meet Nigel’s wife and kids at the campsite ILLGRAG(5,25,N) but hadn’t arranged a specific time. Had she KIRKFELL(3,11,SE) been waiting for ages with two bored children NETHERMOSTPIKE(16,5,SW) or even worse would we have to wait 10 PIKEOSTICKLE(3,12,NE) minutes? In harmony with such a perfect day PILLAR(25,18,S) they met us 10 minutes from the track end and RAISE(8,1,SW) we all walked the last leg down together. REDPIKE(14,23,E) ROBINSON(10,1,SW) How did the day conclude? Seven of us ROSSETTPIKE(1,3,S) squashed into a four seater car singing “Nelly SCAFELL(7,18,NE) the Elephant” by the Toy Dolls back to SCAFELLPIKE(13,4,SW) Portnalong. Next a shower. Next a meal and a SEATSANDAL(3,10,NE) few pints in the pub. SERGEANTMAN(3,5,SE) SKIDDAWG(10,20,NW) A Cracking Day Grommit! STEELFELL(13,16,E) STEEPLE(3,15,SE) STYBARROWDODD(18,22,NW) THUNACARKNOTT(19,14,N) BOB GRAHAM ROUND WORDSEARCH WATSONSDODD(14,11,E) Congratulations to Fliss Wingrave on WHITESIDE(15,9,NW) submitting the winning solution to last edition’s YEWBARROW(10,13,SW) wordsearch puzzle. Thanks again to Bill Wiseman for producing this For those who want to find them, the solutions challange! and coordinates are (Over,Down, Direction):

BLENCATHRA(12,18,NW) OWFELL(22,19,W) BRANDRETH(22,17,W) BROADCRAG(24,14,S) CALFCRAG(20,8,N) CLOUGHHEAD(6,25,N) DALEHEAD(1,14,S) DOLLYWAGONPIKE(25,10,W) ESKPIKE(17,7,NW)

20 Preston Mountaineering Club

MIDWEEK WALKING PROGRAMME JULY — DECEMBER 2012

The mid-week walking programme continues in its successful format - morning coffee followed by a circular walk. Participants are advised to contact Mike & Kath Atkins (tel. 01772 729808) to confirm details of the meet arrangements.

Thursday July 19th 2012 Leader: Graham Winfield

Meet at 10.30 am at Village cafe/tea rooms, Grid ref. SD 628 148. Parking is available on the causeway between the reservoirs or behind the primary school.

The walk includes Winter Hill, Two Lads Hill, and Noon Hill. 8 miles — a moderate walk.

Thursday August 16th 2012 Leader: Harvey Adamson

Meet at 10.30 am at the Rivington Cafe, Rivington Village - for the second month in a row but none the worse for that! - for a low—level walk round , Jepson’s Farm, Lead Mine Valley, Yarrow reservoir and back. Parking on the causeway between the reservoirs or behind the primary school. About 6 miles.

Thursday 20th September 2012 Leaders: Steve and Anne Garsed

Meet at 10.30 am at the Bridge House Farm Cafe, Wray, Grid Reference SD 606674. We will then drive to Low Bentham to the car park immediately north of, and parallel to, the railway line (GR 651693) for a walk up to the Great Stone of Fourstones. Approx 7 miles

Thursday October 18th 2012 Leader: Gordon Semple

Meet at 10.30 am at Puddleducks cafe, Dunsop Bridge for a round in the area. A bit of a mystery tour this! Circa 6 — 7 miles.

Thursday 15th November 2012 Leaders: John and Eileen Trafford

Meet at 10.30 am at the Cottage Tea Room, 25 School Lane, , PR6 8QS, for a walk up . There is parking on the road behind and adjacent to the baths. Map reference 215 628 www.thecottagetearoom.co.uk Approx 7 miles.

Thursday December 20th 2012 Leaders: Kath and Mike Atkins

Meet at 10.30 am at Hindelini’s Café on Mill Lane, Gisburn - BB7 4LP. From Preston direction, turn left off the A59 onto Mill Lane just before Main Street - Hindelini’s is on the right hand side heading north. A round via Rimington and the Ribble Way. 6.5 miles.

21 June 2012

10% Discount on production of PMC membership card at the following shops.

In general discount is only given on mountaineering hardware and clothing, not on maps, guidebooks or sale items.

Cotswold Outdoors Cicerone Press 135 Fishergate, Preston http://www.cicerone.co.uk (01772 270910 20% off with code

Fell and Mountain The Mountain Factor 38a Water Street Lake Rd, Ambleside Accrington ( 015394 32752. (01254 390986

Needle Sports Whalley Warm and Dry 56 Main Street, Keswick 32 King Street, Clitheroe ( 017687 72227 (01254 822220

Lakes Climber Outdoor Action 3-4 Cheapside, Ambleside 26 King Street, Blackburn (015394 33660 ( 01254 671945

Homebarn Ultimate Outdoors Church Avenue, Clapham 17 New Street, Lancaster ( 015242 51162 ( 01524 66610 (also Betws y Coed, Keswick and Skipton)

Onward and Outward 32 King Street, Clitheroe (01200 429977

OFFICERS AND COMMITTEE

President Keith Rollins Vice-President Mike Pringle Secretary Mike Pringle 01257 275984 Meets Secretary Laura Pringle Treasurer Dave Nunwick

Andrew Crompton, John Fishwick, Pete Slinger and Graham Winfield

22 Viv & Jason with Ian ‘ready to go’ at the Ryvoan Bothy, Cairngorms. Fiaciall Ridge and Corrie an Lochan, Cairngorm

Treasurer Dave Nunwick

Rear cover: Chris Carr on Troutdale Pinnacle, Borrowdale Meet, March 2012