SUMMER 2008
Everest special: PMC member makes it to Kindly sponsored the top (and down again) by
Also in this issue: Dramatic rescue in Scotland Choosing your sleeping bag Peterborough “mountain” biking... Peterborouugh Moountaineering Club
Contents Summer 2008
Page 24
p19 p8 34 – Cottage News: p6-11 5-7 - Club News Birthday 9 – Climbing Wall Weekend Court Case 10 – Seven Summits Expedition Challenge 19 – Everest
Profile Mountaineering 12 – PMC Chairman, Will Kimberley. 24 – Nick Livesey gets rescued in p43 Features Scotland 14 – Best Bit of 38 – Via Kit Ferrata in the 15 – Tips & Tricks Italian Dolomites p38 – Sleeping Bags 42 – Climate Change P36 MTBing 43 – Photo 36 – Bike route Gallery around Peterborough Climbing p29 18 – Get Your Dad Out Climbing! Dates for 29 – Wales Novice’s your diary: Hut Meet p44 31 – Yorkshire Dales Cover photo: Lee Meet Farmer on the summit of Everest.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 3 NEWS
PMC contacts We need President: Clive Osborne YOU! Tel: 01733 560303 [email protected] Many thanks to all our con - tributors this issue. We Chairman: Will Kimberley Tel: 07802 260516 would love to receive your [email protected] articles and pictures for the next issue – but you Treasurer: Tony Hawkes don’t have to write a whole [email protected] article, you can also just send us your ramblings, let - Secretary: Jon Darling ters, news, best photos, Tel: 07708 924603 [email protected] “Can’t-live-without” gear reviews, or tell us about k k New members secretary: Nick Livesey u your favourite walks / . u . g [email protected] o scrambles / routes / MTB r c . l o l areas! We can even adver - . Events co-ordinator: a c
w tise items g
POSITION VACANT m n
i wanted/for sale... h info: [email protected] b g m
i The next deadline is: u l c Newsletter Editor: Christelle Tarchalski o h
r *20th October* g o Tel: 07849 778636 u – so e-mail them to us: o b
r publisher@ o e b peterboroughmc.org.uk r t
Website editor: e
Kevin Trickey/Val Taylor e t e p
Tel: 01733 361650 p . . w [email protected] w w w w
Cottage bookings: Robin Phillips w Tel: 01248 811203 [email protected]
(N.B. Text should ideally be Produced by: sent as Word documents and Publisher: Jenna Maryniak pictures should be high reso - Tel: 01733 260009 lution jpgs – send them at their original size and make [email protected] sure your camera is set to high quality, so we can print them big!)
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 4 Summer 2008 Could you? From the Editor Events Co-ordinator needed! Dear PMC members, Enthusiastic individual Christelle needed for voluntary role Welcome to the co-ordinating the busy summer edition of PMC events calendar. Take-In! Thanks for all Perks: your feedback on the • Adulation from all! spring edition, we • Free PMC membership. are very pleased that This is your chance to give you like the new something back to the club. We need your help. look of your For more information please contact Will: favourite newsletter! mobile: 07802 260 A big thanks to Jenna, our new publisher! 516; e-mail: This edition will take you around our dear chairman@peter- island with the cottage’s 50th birthday, a great boroughmc.org.uk story in the Peak District (we will never be too old to start climbing), and an impressive rescue on Buachaille Etive Mòr, which reminds us that BBQ at the Club’s Welsh cottage! climbing is also a dangerous sport. This edition will also take you to Nepal, where Lee Farmer recounts his descent from the top of the world. As everybody knows, the most difficult is always to come down! A big thanks to all who have contributed to The official magazine of the this edition, please keep your articles and Peterborough Mountaineering photo’s coming in! Club (PMC). All the best! – Christelle Tarchalski Printed by:
90 Peterborough Road, Farcet, Events and photos Peterborough PE7 3BN. Tel: 01733 www.peterboroughmc.org.uk 562372. www.kengirvan.co.uk Go to the website for up-to-date information on events and to upload and share your climbing If you don’t photos with other members. keep your copies of For new members you will Take In for-ever and find directions to the Club cot - ever, make sure you tage in Wales and meet leader recycle them! contact details. If you’ve lost your login details Contact us by e-mailing or never had one please e-mail [email protected], [email protected]. Or login as or telephone 01733 260009. a guest User ID: Guest; Password: takein NB: you will only be able to log on as a guest until 31st October.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 5 NEWS About the Peterborough Mountaineering Club The PMC is a friendly, successful Membership benefits: club with around 200 members • Save at the climbing wall (£4 of all ages. We hold regular trips members; £5 non-members); to the Peak District, Wales, Lake • 10% discount on accommodation District and Scottish Highlands at the club’s Snowdonia cottage in to walk, climb and mountain North Wales; bike. Each year we also organise • Third-party BMC mountaineering many club events, including trips insurance for up to £2 million; to the Alps, sunny Spain and • 10% discount at climbing shops France, plus training sessions, across the UK; courses, socials, master classes, • Trips to the Lakes, Peaks, Scotland, Alps, Spain, Italy, etc. (you get the picture). Fontainebleau. The club owns a luxurious hut • Training and expedition grants to subsidise your personal in Snowdonia (hot showers/fitted mountaineering development; kitchen/drying room, sleeping • Take In! magazine – every quarter; upto 30 people) and the climbing • Annual magazine from BMC entitled – Summit ; wall in Peterborough. The wall is • Membership of the club bar and use of changing rooms at open 7pm – 10pm weekdays, the climbing wall; 1pm – 9pm weekends and is at • Opportunity to meet like-minded and adventurous people; the Sports Club (and bar) beside • Social calendar of training courses, events, dinners, Edith Cavell Hospital (Club bouldering competitions and BBQs, etc.; nights – Tuesday). • Library of books, maps, videos, etc. Non-members are very wel - • Equipment library of helmets, harnesses, ice axes, come to join us at most events crampons, boots, rucksacks, cagoules, etc.; and you are welcome to use the • A source of walking and climbing wall at any time. climbing partners.
Membership costs: Bargain at • Individual Membership: £27.50 – that only amounts to just £2.29 per month! £2.29 per • Family Membership: £37.50 month
To apply, contact the new members secretary, Nick Livesey on [email protected] or ask at the wall. 4 Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 6 Summer 2008 Climbing Wall Take In! gets sponsored ! More The Peterborough Climbing Wall now The BMC very kindly gave has a lovely new website. Check it out the Peterborough discounts for at www.peterboroughclimbingwall.co.uk Mountaineering Club £250 members! towards the colour printing Wall prices are now as follows: of Take In! Dave Turnbull, BMC CEO, said: “I was PMC members – £4 very impressed with the quality of the news Non-members – £5 14-18s – £3 letter and would be happy to provide support Under 14s – £1.50 with a one-off grant from the BMC.” Take In! has also been sponsored by Rock Six-month season tickets: Blok, who will also be providing some fantastic PMC members – £75 discounts to PMC members, including: Non-members – £100 * 20% off Rock Blok activities & cycle hire. 12-month season tickets: * 10% off bikes and frames in Rutland Cycling; PMC members – £135 * 10% off Rock Blok climbing gear & clothing Non-members – £180 Look out for your discount card with this The Wall is run by PMC members. Ask at the issue of Take In! wall about becoming a wall supervisor if you want to save loadsa money! Terry Wrights Cycles in Deeping St James have also sponsored the Mountain Bike section Open: and will be giving members: Monday to Friday: 19:00 - 22:00 * 10% off in the shop; Saturday & Sunday: 13:00 - 21:00 * A free inner tube for your bike if you men - tion the Take In! advert in store. s d
n Make sure you support these local businesses a l
w if you can – as they are ensuring the continua - o R Take In!
c tion of the colour version of – without a J
: them we will have to go back to black and s c i
P white (noooooo!).
Watch out for clampers Climber breaks leg at Unauthorised vehicles are now being Peterborough wall clamped during the daytime at the Climbing On Sunday 3rd August a climber at Peterborough Wall car park. Climbing Wall fell and broke his leg. Long-awaited work has been carried out on the car park, but beware if you park in Falling from only half way up the wall, the acci - the car park during the daytime, as all unau - dent is a reminder to all that bouldering without thorised vehicles are being clamped. a rope is a dangerous activity and crash mats are If you want to avoid this fate, it is suggested no guarantee of a safe landing should you fall. that you display either your PMC or your If you are attempting new or difficult moves PCW membership card. Evenings and week - high up the wall, you may want to consider using 4 ends are OK! a harness and a rope. Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 7 NEWS
Staying hydrated? Gear news There are tests that show High tech fabrics depending on the ambient as little as 5% dehydration Mammut has launched three temperature. new garments due out early in At higher temperatures or in can decrease your physical 2009 which use Schoeller response to increased heat performance by as much as ColdBlack technology, from physical exertion, the 30%. which despite their structure of the membrane As things get worse, dehy - black colour, are highly opens up to release excess dration massively increases reflective and stay water vapour to the outside, cool even in the sun. but at lower tempera - the risk of heat illness, The top-end Logan tures, the membrane including headaches, cramps, Jacket is going to retail for a closes up to conserve fatigue, vomiting, coma and scary £450, but there's also a heat around the body. death... Verglas softshell jacket (£180) Mammut claims that not Your thirst mechanism lags and a pair of trousers. only is it very adaptable, The other interesting devel - but it “offers new levels of behind your actual hydra - opment from Mammut is the vapour permeability”, despite tion level, so by the time Cho Oyu jacket, an alpine shell having a 20,000mm hydros - you’re feeling thirsty, you’re that uses a new waterproof tratic head. already dehydrated. Schoeller c_change mem - Keep an eye on your brane, which is said to open – Info from and close 'like a pine cone' www.outdoorsmagic.com urine, it should ideally be clear or at worse, a light straw colour. Other news Try to hydrate before you The BMC has funded a new leaflet giving advice on ticks, set off. On a hot day, you how to avoid them and what to do if you are bitten. can lose between 500ml The leaflet, produced by Arnside and and 2,000ml (two litres) per Silverdale AONB, provides some useful r hour when working hard. information on what ticks are, how to t ffo ou Ideally, you want to replace avoid them and what to do if you are ch at ks!! as much as that as possible. bitten. The leaflet can be downloaded W tiic An absolute minimum of on www.thebmc.co.uk. 500ml per hour, and ideally Ticks are small arachnids, that live off the blood of birds and mammals more like one litre per hour – including you. They are second as a starting point, is rec - only to mosquitoes for carrying diseases ommended, more on really to humans, and in the UK can carry such pleasures as Lyme hot days or if you’re work - disease, Ehrlichiosis, Babesiosis and Bartonella. ing hard – that may mean This year several cases of Lyme disease have been report - you need to top up your ed. This is spread by animal ticks, particularly deer ticks. The supplies during the day, but risk of infection can be reduced by wearing long trousers the pay off is worth it. and long sleeved shirts when walking in tall vegetation dur - ing May to June and September to October. Tuck trousers – Information from into socks if necessary. Light coloured clothing will make www.outdoorsmagic.com ticks more noticeable so that they can be brushed off. Insect repellent sprays can help.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 8 Summer 2008 CORSHAM CLIMBING WALL FOUND NOT NEGLIGENT
Gary Poppleton, who was sadly paralysed beyond his capabilities, and was three-quar - after falling from a climbing wall, claimed he ters to blame for his own misfortune, but he was the a victim of negligence. said he could claim compensation on the basis A ‘novice’ at rock climbing, Mr Poppleton that the centre was 25% to blame, meaning he was ‘bouldering’ at the 16-foot wall at the was still entitled to substantial damages. Fort Purbrook Centre, at Corsham, near The judge made his finding on the basis that Portsmouth, on 2nd February 2002, without the centre should have warned Mr Poppleton ropes, when he fell attempting a dynamic that thick safety matting on the floor didn't move, breaking his neck. necessarily make the climbing wall safe. Mr Poppleton, now 30, sued the trustees of However, the trustees appealed, and at the Portsmouth Youth Activities Committee – London’s Court of Appeal, Lord Justice May the charity which runs the centre – for com - upheld the appeal and said: “There being pensation, on the basis that he had been given inherent and obvious risks in the activity no instruction or warning about safe use of which Mr Poppleton was voluntarily undertak - the facility, and had not been asked about his ing, the law did not require the trustees to abilities. prevent him from undertaking it, nor to train At the High Court in July last year, Judge him or supervise him while he did it, or see Richard Foster ruled that Mr Poppleton had that others did so.” attempted a "dangerous and foolhardy" jump - Mr Poppleton, therefore, will not receive a ing manoeuvre on the climbing wall, far penny in compensation.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 9 NEWS The SEVEN Summits Challenge ‘7 summits, 7 days, 7 people, 1 Rock Blok’ Richard Johnson lives the dream ... but in a slightly different way than he had imagined!
The seven summits have interested me since I Those of you paying attention read about the 1996 Everest disaster in Into will realise there are eight Thin Air by Jon Crakauer when I was backpack - summits in the list, and here - ing across Canada. In setting the scene, he ref - in the debate of defining the erences several key characters, including an seven summits begins. Without having American called Dick Bass, to reference cartographers who was the first person to Summit of Kilimanjaro and tectonic plates, basically, in June 2002. climb the seven summits. Bass it’s down to individual inter - showed that climbing the seven pretation whether you include summits, even Everest, was Carstensz Pyramid (Papua within the realms of possibility New Guinea), which is on an for ‘regular guys’, assuming island, or Koscuiosko, which is you’re reasonably fit and have clearly on the continental disposable income. He writes, mainland of Australia. Amongst “I think the biggest obstacle is the handful of climbers who taking time off from your job commit themselves to the and leaving your family for two seven summits challenge, most months.” endeavour to do the eight, in I’d never heard the phrase order not to be classed as ‘the seven summits’ before and cheaters. immediately scanned to the Upon finishing Into Thin Air, footnotes of the page to find my climbing library expanded out what it meant, assuming it in depth, as did my enthusiasm was the seven highest summits for mountain trekking. My in the world. In fact, the Seven inspiration and drive to get Summits refer to the highest peaks on each of out into the mountains came from books such the seven continents: as White Spider, Touching the Void and Into the • Mount Everest 29,028ft (Asia); Wild , despite most being disaster stories. The • Aconcagua 22,834ft (South America); ideas of isolation, determination and self- • Mount McKinley (AKA Denali) 20,320ft achievement appealed to me. The challenge of (North America); the seven summits seemed the ultimate overall • Kilimanjaro 19,340ft (Africa); goal, spanning across every corner of the globe. • Elbrus 18,510ft (Europe); However, it was at this stage that I realised I • Vinson Massif 16,067ft (Antarctica); was earning minimum wage, driving an M-reg • Carstensz Pyramid 16,535ft (Australasia); Rover and had £7.84 in my Norwich & • Koscuiosko 7,316ft (Australasia). Peterborough savings account. Over the next
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 10 Summer 2008 Richard Johnson on the summit of Kosciusko in Australia in 2005.
“Not only does the service help us reckless joy-seekers in remote outdoor locations, but it covers road traffic accidents and work-related incidents, and benefits four years I did, Plans are underway to provide the new serv - everyone in the however, manage ice and fundraising has begun to raise the £1.5 region” to complete two of million needed to run the service each year. I the seven summits, wanted to raise some money to help get the Koscuiosko and Kilimanjaro. new air ambulance service going and start put - ting my seven summits plan into action. I’m The cause lucky enough to work at an outdoor climbing Due to the lovely British economy, current centre at Rutland Water, called the Rock Blok. planning for any further seven summits excur - This facility and my enthusiastic staff agreed sions is on hold. Because of this, and after read - that a seven summits equivalent challenge on ing an article on the mountain rescue air ambu - the height of the Rock Blok would be an excit - lance, I considered a way to simulate my seven ing event to run. summit dreams on smaller scales and raise The challenge money for the air ambulance at the same time. The Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Rutland The tag-line for my challenge is ‘7 summits, 7 Air Ambulance (DLRAA), set up in April this days, 7 people, 1 Rock Blok.’ This means each year, aims to do much more than simply trans - climber must complete one of the summits in 24 port casualties to the nearest hospital. The hours. The equivalent of each mountain will be DLRAA will take patients to specialist hospitals climbed on the 26ft Rock Blok: i.e. to gain the that can help with specific injuries and will pro - height of Everest the climber must complete vide life-saving treatment on site and en-route 1,118 ascents of the Rock Blok in 24 hours. The to hospital. This service would be invaluable in plan is to start the challenge on Sunday 10th the many cases where land ambulances can’t August and finish on the following Saturday. reach a patient or would be too slow to be any I would like to gain around £2,000 of fundrais - help. The DLRAA’s will serve in excess of 1.4 ing from this event and have currently been million people across 2,100 square miles of aided towards this target by Rutland Water Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Rutland. Cycling, Mountain Hardware and Sport In Not only does the service help us reckless joy Science. seekers in remote outdoor locations, but it Any support during the week, whether it be covers road traffic accidents and work-related donation, assistance with belaying or hosing incidents, and benefits everyone in the region down hot climbers will be greatly appreciated. by almost guaranteeing that crucial one-hour • Support Richard and his team at the Rock Blok time frame from injury to hospital. from 10-16 August.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 11 PROFILE Other lives From naked saunas, to shovelling s**t – we find out more about Will Kimberley, the PMC Committee chairman
Curl Curl Beach, Sydney, Australia
You don’t have a Peterborough accent! Will: The company manufactures organic fer - Where are you from and how did you end tiliser for golf courses. As business manager, I up in Peterborough? look after the day-to-day running of Will: I come from the land of the business. Being a small compa - Sheila and Bruces. I was shipped ny there’s a myriad of other off to Blighty to serve two to things to get involved in from five years for aiding and abet - finance to marketing and I’ve ting a British tourist with his certainly done my fair share BBQ. It’s been nearly 10 of the dirty work, including years and I’ve still not been shovelling the brown stuff. forgiven for my crime against In the last couple of years I the state... have travelled to China with I came to England to work the business, which has been in the family business and see Will. a sometimes bizarre experi - some more of Europe. I found ence. There’s a massive divide myself in Peterborough, as this is between rich and poor. From the where the office is, so I just fell into window of Shanghai’s 270mph mag - the PE6 postcode and haven’t moved netic train I could see donkeys carting since. coal. Business is different too. It’s not unusual to find yourself in a sauna house, nude with your What do you do for a living and do you like it? business partners and clients. Imagine doing
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 12 Summer 2008 that in Britain!
How did you get into climbing? Will: I was first introduced to climbing on a summer youth camp. I still remember feeling like I’d con - quered the world on what must have been a VDiff. Sadly, I didn’t know anyone that climbed, so 10 years passed before I could try it again. Oddly, this was in England, while studying on exchange at Humberside University. The sports In China, it’s not unusual to find yourself in a sauna house, hall had a traversing wall, which was nude with your business partners and clients! enough to get me hooked. Once back in Australia, me and a couple of mates bought some What scares you most? sport climbing kit and went out climbing around Will: As Jerry Seinfeld once said: “I would Sydney. If you’ve ever watched “Home and Away” rather be in the casket than giving the eulogy”! then you may have seen one of the crags I learnt on in the background. Why did you want to become chairman of the PMC committee? Do you have any other interests? Will: That was six years ago and I recall that Will: Anything on the water is a hit for me, so Kev Trickey was the culprit! He prompted me whenever I’m back in Australia I’m rarely far to give it some thought and I figured it would from the beach. I used to be quite keen on be good to give something back to the club. black and white photography, but my old SLR just keeps gathering dust each year. I really Where is your favourite place on earth enjoy snowboarding and hope to spend a sea - and why? son in Whistler before I’m past it. Will: Curl Curl Beach, Sydney. This is my favourite surf spot and where I learnt to surf. What would you most like to do next in I’ve spent many mornings there enjoying some terms of climbing/biking/mountaineering? solitude in the sea spray. Will: I’m enjoying my biking of late, so my next goal is to manual ( a special kind of wheelie, appar - Tell us three things we didn’t know about ently! – Ed). Believe me, it’s harder than it looks. you... • I played the trombone in the school band. What inspires you most in life? • I’m half British. Will : Sunrise on a deserted beach with glassy • I ate Witchetty grubs to survive in the bush. waves peeling off in an offshore breeze. (Guess which one isn’t true!)
If you have an interesting hobby, career or interest, we want to know about it – e-mail us on [email protected]
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 13 FEATURE Best Bit of Kit! North Cape Pertex top Metolius Super Chalk
What is your favourite As everyone knows piece of kit? Given this little I’m a big-time dilemma to ponder, I paced boulderer, I may up and down my cell eager not be very good to bring the questioning to at it ( Yeah – whatev - an end. I tossed a few bits er Tim! – Ed) ,but still of gear about in my mind… bouldering is what I do. old hexes, that lucky friend, For me, my best bit of most comfortable rucksack, kit is my chalk. Many peo - hmm, what would I choose? What would I ple would find this odd, as they would say that depend on? their shoes are their best bit of kit; however, After pondering chalk is mine. which piece of kit I Climbers use chalk because of three main rea - have probably carted sons; the first is because it can soak up the about most to the sweat as your blasting up that E10 you’ve always strangest of places, I wanted to do. Secondly, because of its ‘rough’ decided that it wasn’t structure it can increase friction when you grip a piece of climbing the rock, and thirdly, chalk can be a very mild gear or a rucksack, but my lightweight North anaesthetic that means when you are doing that Cape Pertex top. E10 and you cut yourself on those very small This is about eight years old now, but has been crimps, you won’t feel them as much! used for all manner of things: the Mountain Bike I’ve used lots of chalk, but my favourite type is Viking Challenge, running, walking, bouldering and Metolius Super Chalk. This chalk claims to have climbing. It’s probably no longer showerproof, it a special drying agent in it that absorbs more certainly has more holes than it was designed sweat and for me, I have noticed the difference. with, but it has seen plenty of action. I’ve taken it It’s also fairly cheap £4.95 for a half-pound bag, to the States, Down Under, even further down so great for students or tight gits! under to New Zealand and it’s even been up the So that is my favourite bit of kit. See you Old Man of Stoer! down the wall. – Jez Gittens – Tim Staton
Do you have a favourite bit of kit? What is your “can’t-live- without”, essential mountain / climbing / hiking / biking thing? Take a photo of it, tell us why you love it and send it to us at [email protected]
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 14 Summer 2008 – How to choose a sleeping bag TChirisptelles Tar cha’lskni giv es sTomre aidvcice okn whs at to consider when buying a sleeping bag I am heading soon to Nepal and one of my most efficient insulation compared to a rectan - biggest purchases is my sleeping bag! Synthetic gular bag, which will give more space to move or down? Which comfort temperature? How around in (but also to heat up). heavy? Which size? A sleeping bag is no good if you don’t have I finally decided to choose the best sleeping insulation from the ground; use a suitable mat bag that I could afford, based on the use of the to get the most from your bag. sleeping bag. Here are few tips that I learnt dur - Which type is for you? ing my quest! You can have the best clothes, the best tent, Weight Vs. Warmth Vs. Bulk Vs. Cost the best food, the best backpack; but if your The above equation is the one you should con - sleeping bag is not the sider when buying a right one, your whole sleeping bag. It’s outdoor experience important to decide will be ruined. Having which factor(s) is the right sleeping bag the most essential, can be the difference as this will influence between waking up the one you choose. refreshed and ready Generally, the more for another great day expensive or and not sleeping at all. advanced a filling, the more compact Quick tips and lightweight the Decide what the lowest temperature is that bag will be. you are likely to encounter. Choose a bag that Sleeping bags can be divided into the follow - will perform to this temperature (and ideally a ing broad categories. little below, for extra peace of mind or if you Camping / Trail sleeping bags should be are always cold while sleeping). reasonably light and not too bulky, depending Synthetic bags tend to be cheaper and on what time of year it will be used. If you are easier to clean than down bags. They also pro - away for only a few days then you can allow for vide reasonable insulation when wet, and dry a slightly bulkier bag giving increased warmth. out more quickly than down bags. Usually synthetic filling is used to keep cost Down bags provide the best warmth-to- down. weight ratio, compress smaller and will last Trekking sleeping bags are designed for longer than synthetic bags. longer trips where the total weight and pack A mummy-shaped bag will provide the size are more critical. They will make use of
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 15 FEATURE
down or performance synthetic fill - ings to reduce the weight and bulk whilst maintaining a high level of warmth to weight. Mountain sleeping bags are usually specialist lightweight models for alpine use, where the main aim is to keep bulk and weight to an absolute minimum. Equally, they may be the extra warm bags required for temperatures in excess of - 15°C. Down Down-filled bags are generally warmer and lighter than the equiva - lent synthetic bags and are still con - sidered best for winter and expedition use, therefore the lower the weight and bulk and where low weight and bulk are important. Care the better the insulation. However, the higher must be taken with all down bags as if they the grade, the more expensive the bag. become wet they lose a good deal of their Shell fabrics insulating properties. Another factor with down bags is that they must be The shell fabrics used in washed with great care to sleeping bags is not prevent damage. They are designed to be water - more expensive, but gen - proof, but primarily to be erally more durable and very breathable to prevent will last longer than syn - the user from becoming thetic bags. too uncomfortable inside. Down comes in the fol - Shell fabrics tend to lowing varieties: become more durable and Duck down – less better quality as the price fine than goose down, but of the bag increases. considerably less expensive. Seasonal ratings Goose down – very fine and provides approximately 25% more insulation than the Different manufacturers use different criteria to equivalent weight of duck down. award their own ratings, and every individual Down works by the feathers trapping a layer of feels the cold differently too. Comfort tempera - air, which is then heated by your body heat. It ture or seasonal ratings are used to give you a comes in a number of different grades/qualities. guide. For example, 90% goose down will consist of For instance: from one-season bags – which 90% down and 10% feathers. The higher the are basic summer bags designer for use in percentage stated, the purer the down and warm weather or indoor use; to four-season
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 16 Summer 2008 plus / five-season bags – which are specialist Males and females feel the cold differently bags for expedition use (these are probably too – females are generally more susceptible to warm for most activities in the UK). cold than males. Physical fitness and condition – seasoned Factors that affect your temperature mountaineers can generally sleep at a colder When using a sleeping bag there are a number temperature than those who camp infrequently. of factors that will affect how you, as an individ - Build of the user – a slim man will fit the ual, feels the temperature. They can be divided bag differently to a large and tall man and may into two categories as follows: find the bag correspondingly feels warmer or cooler. Physical factors Body weight – a light layer of body fat Environment, altitude insulates you against cold. In addition, the larger and climate. Where the bag the body, the ratio of surface area to mass is being used is important reduces, making it harder to in choosing the right lose heat. model. Keeping well nourished Insulation from the ground. and hydrated during a trip Selection of the appropriate mat can makes a big difference. If you make a big difference in your com - are dehydrated and hungry fort. your body may not maintain Insulation from wind chill, respi - the correct temperature. ration and moisture loss through breathing can Exhaustion reduces the body’s ability to affect how you feel the cold in the bag. maintain temperature regulation. What is the user wearing in the bag; light - General health – there are medical condi - weight base-layers, expedition weight base lay - tions that may make the user more susceptible ers, down suit, hat, gloves, socks, scarf. Wearing to the cold; e.g. circulatory problems can affect warm socks and a hat in cooler weather can the perception of cold. keep the extremities warmer and help you to stay warmer. Once you have your bag, here are some tips Features of the bag; hood design, neck baf - on how to get the best from it. fles, zip baffles, foot plug design, shape and fit. Sometimes it is easier to pack your ruck - Extended trips can lead to moisture from sack with a sleeping bag that is loosely com - sweat becoming trapped in the bag reducing pressed (allowing you to pack things more easi - the insulation it can offer. ly around it). If using your sleeping bag regularly, it is a Physiological factors good idea to use a liner inside the bag. This Sleeping bags do not generate any heat. A keeps the bag clean and the liner is easier to sleeping bag works by retaining a layer of warm wash than the whole bag. air that you generate around you; this is what Take care washing your sleeping bag, espe - keeps you warm. cially if it’s a down bag. Age – older people feel the cold more I hope that this will help you in choosing than young adults. Also, young children cannot your next sleeping bag! self-regulate their temperature so well.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 17 CLIMBING Get your D A d out on the crag! Alison Brooker is rather impressed by her Dad’s first climbing efforts!
After many MANY years of telling my dad he has the perfect physique for climbing and that he should come and try it some time, he finally gave in and agreed to come! I was so pleased; those of you that know me will understand just how Roy. close I am to my dad and how happy this made me. Will, Jenny, my Dad (Roy), my Mum (Kay) and I all headed off to Froggatt to join Roy climbing at Froggatt (left). Wellingborough Club members on a joint meet. The first climb of the day was Gamma, a nice gentle VDiff to start Dad off. climbed with relative ease, then when he Mum was left in charge of picture-taking, but reached the final slab section, Will stopped him when I looked to check if she was capturing the and explained that this section was tricky, but to action she had her head in a book. I shouted for give it and try. But within seconds of Will finish - her to look up, to which she replied, “I can’t, I ing his statement, Dad had reached the top – don’t like it”! So she travelled all the way to the now he was speed climbing too! Peaks to watch us climb, but ended up hating it! Will and I were astonished at his natural ability The first and last time for Mum! to climb (own up if anyone has taken him out Anyway, Dad sailed up Gamma like a seasoned prior to this), I was supposed to be taking pic - pro, using hand-jams and everything! When he tures, but failed to, as I was so amazed. got to the top he said, and I quote: “I got to one Unfortunately, this was the last climb of the point that had a big crack and thought, logically day because the British summer heavens opened the only way I am going to be able to do this is and that was that. We all walked back in the to use both fists and expand them”! Fist jam - pouring rain, got soaked and I was worried that ming on his very first climb, I tried to explain Mum and Dad would be miffed at being wet, but that people that have been climbing for years nothing was going to wipe the smile off my haven’t mastered jamming, me included! Dad’s face! So we stopped off at the pub for a Will then followed up, and all I could hear was quick reward beer, before driving the new my Dad saying: “Why is he taking so long?” climber home. We then did Trapeze, another VDiff to ease I want to say well done to Dad for being such him in. This proved to be all too easy for Dad so a great natural climber, even though he thought we needed to find something harder to knock he was too old (if only you had listened to me him down a peg or two. The answer was Will’s sooner). I don’t want to give his age away, but at suggestion: Heather Wall S 3c. Will led this one sixty-something (4 – sorry Dad), he really did and suggested to my Dad he have a go, but that do well. It was my proudest day ever and I’m so he might need to be lowered back down. glad he is keen to go again; I can’t wait! My Dad skipped the awkward start and I recommend it … get your Dad’s out climbing!
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 18 Summer 2008 EXPEDITION
From the top of PMC member, Lee Farmer, recounts his tdehscenet fr omw theo sumrmilt od f Mount Everest
I was numb. Numb through the physical effort my big down mittens to handle a frozen camera of the last 9.5 hours climb, and numb emotion - for the precious summit photo. ally; the mental strain of concentration for the After 15 minutes suffering pain, I shouted to last three days had drained me of all thoughts Pasang Sherpa that we had to go. Pasang was in of triumph and celebration. The only feeling I worse condition than me, his oxygen mask had had was pain. Pain in my gloved hands, booted frozen earlier on, meaning he was on the sum - feet, exposed ears, exposed cheeks and any mit with no oxygen. He was suffering badly, the other part of exposed flesh. cold eating him alive. I pulled him to his feet Flesh laid bare to the 40mph wind that blew and urged him to get down fast, “don’t wait for wickedly on top of the world was beginning to me, just get down!” I shouted over the wind. turn hard. The first signs of frost nip. No won - He moved fast and disappeared down the der, with the wind chill factor, the temperature snowy traverse. was about -75°C. Already I had no feeling in the I got myself together, clipped back onto the fingers of my left hand – the price of removing fixed line and bound after him, guessing that my
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 19 EXPEDITION
oxygen bottle must be getting Descending into the ice fall low by now. As I skirted round rocky outcrops and buttresses, I was upset to see him hanging on the Hillary Step, a bundle of fixed lines in his hands, suffering even more, as he let ascending climbers get over the final rocky bivalve hump of the step. I shout - ed over the wind to him, not to worry about them. “Get down,” I shouted, moving my mittened Everest with Jet Stream wind plume hand repeatedly downward. I could see through their goggles that the ascending climbers’ eyes were filled with sum - mit fever; nothing was going to get in their way. I had to move into a small chimney in the rock to let them go past. I began to get cold through inactivity. Once again, I felt the cold creeping up through my fingers and toes, into my hands and feet, slowly and painfully; like bindweed stran - gling a nettle. I got frustrated and angry each time one these climbers reached me. They struggled to successive camp. These camps were established work out which of the many fixed lines to clip by our Sherpa team. Pasang was with me on their jumar onto. “It’s the orange line, you idiot! summit day to carry spare oxygen and keep an The same as you’ve just climbed the step with!” experienced eye on me. Though he never handing them the orange rope now with a solid climbed with me, always 30 yards or so behind. hand. I urged him to get to his feet saying, “You After maybe 40 minutes and 10 climbers, can’t stay here.” He came to life and disap - Pasang descended and I lost sight of him over peared around a rocky corner and down over the step. I went to get over and was turned towards the south summit. I followed at my back; three more climbers were coming over. I own pace, then I realised it was daylight, the was getting worried my oxygen was getting sun’s rays bright and warming; I had no goggles low, but now was my chance to get over the or glasses on, as I’d climbed through the night. I Hillary Step. was worried about the real danger of snow I got over the bivalve, turned into the rock blindness. I stopped and half got into an icy cre - and down-climbed to a small, snowy notch. vasse, there I took my pack off and still with There, I was surprised and disappointed to find numb hands I fished inside either for my gog - Pasang on his knees, huddled over his pack. gles or glasses not caring which was coming The climbing ethic of the expedition was to out first. I found my goggles, put them on and climb unguided. Each team member carrying with pack back on my back, got to the small their own loads of equipment and gear to each snowy col before the icy steps of the south
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 20 Summer 2008 summit. Lee on Everest Again, I was dismayed to find Pasang knelt down over his pack. He was desperately, but with no success, trying to break off the ice from the inside of his mask. We changed over my oxygen bottle and he said this bottle had to last, it had to get me down to South Col at 7,955 metres. We were at 8,700 metres. We ascended snow steps up to the south summit and traversed over to descend. On the other side of the summit I got a view of South Col, far, far below. “My God, that’s miles,” I thought, as I screwed up my eyes to pick out tiny dots of yellow and orange, which were tents set amongst the brown rocks so far below. Suddenly, I was overwhelmed, “I can’t do this”, I thought to myself. Then I remembered the old climbing cliché: “The summit’s only halfway” and that most people die on descent on Everest; many just give up, sit down and die. Pasang was long gone, a figure getting smaller and smaller, “That’s a real shame, poor bugger,” I shouted but easy to see; a dark shape set against the back, as I turned and walked down to The pristine whiteness of the snow. “I Balcony. I got my focus back, and thought carried a At The Balcony, I began to relax a about my next move. “If I just huge load through bit. I sat down and began to strip the ice fall, the saftey get to the end of this fixed lines on one ladder col - out of my down suit tying the line (to the ice screw lapsed and threw me for - body and arms of it around my anchoring it to the snow) ward to a kneeling position waist. Close to me, lying on I’m getting down”. I broke and I was looking down into the snow, was a large blue bag. down the decent into small one almighty crevasse, I Slowly it dawned on me that struggled with the manageable bits – almost like a 80/90 lbs of kit to the blue bag contained a body. A pitch on a big multi-pitch rock get back up” climber had died today. This really climb. After a long while I was brought home to me the tightrope I approaching the area known as The was walking between life and death, here in Balcony – the top of the snow couloir which the ‘death zone’. I later found out it was a Swiss led down to South Col. I heard a “Hi Lee,” and climber who had attempted to climb Everest turned round to see Kenton Cool 20 yards without oxygen. above me. “Did he [Sir Ranulph Fiennes] get I decided not to linger and started going up?” I shouted up to him. “No 8,3,” he replied – down the fixed line leading me into the snow meaning, of course, that he had turned around couloir, and before long I came across another at 8,300 metres. Kenton and Rob Casserley body. I knew this was Scott Fischer, a guide who were Sir Ran’s guides on Everest this year. had perished in the 1996 disaster. I paid my
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 21 EXPEDITION
Everest respects and seeing his The summit ridge Facts: body made me more determined to get • The official alti - down to South Col. tude is 29,029 feet (8,848m). The snow coulior just seemed to go on • Shifting tectonic and on. I just wanted plates continue to it to end. I was so push Everest upward, along with thirsty, I hadn’t now the whole Himalaya drunk any fluids for mountain range, at over 14 hours, as my 1.6 to 3.9 inches (4 water bottle had to 10 centimetres) frozen by the time per year. we’d got to The Balcony on the Col or Camp IV came into view • At the summit of way up. and I thought, “I know I’m really Everest, there is only I caught up with Pasang. He had close if I can read the brand names a third of the oxygen recovered and we chatted briefly on the tents.” In time I could do in the air. and he bounded down the coulior. I this, I was ‘home’ relatively safe and • By the end of the carried on a lot slower than him. in the comfort of our two tents. 2007 climbing sea - Then, to my left, I came across I had summitted in the worst son, there had been another body. A figure clad in a weather conditions that the small a total of 3,679 ascents to the sum - blue down suit, his chest and head five-day summit window of this mit by 2,436 individ - thankfully covered by scree, the year had given. I had climbed uals. rest of him laid bare to the ele - unguided, the only member of the ments. Next to him sat a figure; it seven-man team to summit and it • Everest has was Rob Casserely. I then remem - had taken me 16.5 hours round claimed 210 lives, including 15 who bered Rob had mentioned to me trip from South Col. I was lucky, my perished during a some weeks ago about a dead oxygen was down to just five psi 1996 storm high on friend of his. He was paying his and all I’d suffered was nerve dam - the mountain. respects to a good friend. We age in five fingers and four toes, oh, Conditions are so difficult in the ‘death looked at each other through our I’d also left my head torch on the zone’ (altitudes goggles. I took his gloved hand and summit! higher than 8,000 squeezed it, the only action I could To climb Everest you need to be m/26,246 ft) that think of to show my respect and very, very fit. Mentally strong and most corpses have sympathy. He simply said, “Thanks focused, have and be familiar with been left where they fell. About 150 bod - Lee,’ and we descended, leaving his the right gear, and have a fair sprin - ies have never been fallen friend to his eternal resting kling of luck. If any PMC members recovered. place. have aspirations of Everest or Finally, I got to the bottom of the extreme altitude mountaineering, • Lightning does not strike Mount Everest coulior, and was pleased to get on I’d be happy to give advice. the hard packed snow of South Col. – Contact me through my web site: Before long the tents of South www.leefarmer.co.uk .
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 22 Summer 2008 We just had to ask...
Fascinated by Lee Farmer’s Everest quest? We find out more... In reading your article, I was surprised at There has been a lot of debate about the the amount of people on Everest. Is there a ethics of helping others in the ‘death zone’. small time frame that everyone has to fit What is your stance on this? into to? Lee: I’d always try and help others and I think Lee: My summit day was the 24th May. I started 90% of people would also do so. I saw a lady who at 8pm on the 23rd. I joined a long line of maybe had gone snow blind being helped down by five 60-70 head torches. I would esti - people. I had helped out a French mate that half or more turned lady on the Geneva Spur lower around at The Balcony. Myself down on the mountain, so whilst and Pasang didn’t rest at The we’re self-driven and focussed, I Balcony and cracked on, over-tak - don’t think the majority of ing around 20 climbers. At the climbers are that heartless not to summit there were three other help. That said, you are severely people. Then on the descent we restricted in the type of help and only passed around 15 still assistance you can give up there ascending. The wind and then the in the ‘death zone’. cold turned people back. Because of the Chinese govern - How do you feel now it’s all ment imposed ban on climbers over? Lee traversing a crevasse via higher than Camp II between the an aluminium ladder Lee: Now the adrenaline has 1st to the 10th May, there was a worn off, I feel really tired, I’m not rush to get acclimatised and get sleeping well and my body feels high. The summit weather window was 21st-25th weak. I’m sleepy by mid-afternoon. I went at a May, maybe a few straggling teams summitted on weight of 14.5 stone, I went down to 12 stone and the 26th, but the weather was deteriorating. I’ve now I’m 13.5 stone. I used to be a rugby prop and never been in some much pain because of the cold. trimmed down from 17.5 stone to 14.5 stone for Everest. How did you feel seeing bodies on Everest? Lee: I didn’t know how I’d react seeing the fallen. I Any other big plans on the horizon? think I’d liken it to seeing a mummy in a museum; Lee: My next mountain is back to Aconcagua in as two of them were mummified, their flesh porce - December (third time lucky), and then try Everest lain white. I didn’t like seeing the Swiss guy though from the north side next year. I’ll be the fifth Briton – that was close to home. For me, it got me more ever to have done both sides if I can summit. resolved to refocus on getting down and get my Everest was my fifth Seven Summit, leaving backside in gear – that wasn’t happening to me, I Aconcagua and Denali to go. So I’m busy trying to thought. Regarding death – them’s the risks you get business sponsors for Everest and trying to find take if you are going to extreme altitude. If you a speaking agent at the moment. thought too much about it you wouldn’t climb – it’s a bit like why I‘d never get on a motorbike!
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 23 MOUNTAINEERING An unexpected introduction to aviation
It’s high drama on the hills for Nick Livesey who gets an unexpected helicopter ride off Buachaille Etive Mòr
Like many British mountaineers, I have ambi - wait. Likewise, my first taste of air travel … or tions that will require trips to foreign climes. so I had thought. Unfortunately for me, there is a stumbling A change of plan block: I’m afraid of flying, and a long road trip to the Alps doesn’t really hold much appeal. So, For weeks I had been counting the days until my with that in mind, I’ll latest communion Stob Dearg, be staying on UK Buachaille Etive with the ancient rock soil until I can van - Mòr fortresses of Alba. quish my qualms. Imagine our disap - This, of course, is pointment when Juggs, no hardship. Enjoying Nobz and I found our - the romance of the selves at the foot of Lakeland fells, main - the Douglas Boulder taining my love affair in torrential rain. We with Cymru and had come a long way jaunts north of the to climb Tower Ridge border keep me on the North Face of busy enough, and apart from our hit-and-miss Ben Nevis and a pessimistic weather forecast winter conditions, I am left wanting for nothing. wasn’t going to stop us. At least that was our I am a very lucky man to have been born and collective assertion the previous evening when, raised in a land that enslaves my heart; so, for fuelled by liquid midge repellent, we had vowed now, the mighty snow peaks of Europe must that “Come what may, we’ll bag the bastard”.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 24 Summer 2008 The ascent In the cold light of day, however, we peered up At at a huge streaming castle, rising into a vaporous Hangover least that was veil of clammy clag. We looked at each other in notwithstand - our collective asser - silence and then turned to the sodden rock, ing, dawn tion the previous before frowns confirmed a wordless consensus; brought a evening when, fuelled by “Carn Mor Dearg arête it is then”. smile to my liquid midge repellent, we Back at the Manse Barn, clouds of steam face; the rain had vowed that “Come issued forth as wet layers of Gore Tex and had abated and what may, we’ll bag polypropylene were peeled away from wrinkled the tops were the bastard”. skin. Clad in just our free of underpants and thus cloud. Perfect. stripped of any preten - Nobz on This unexpected turn in the weath - ‘smoker’s sion, a lengthy cogita - ledge’ before er had inspired my spirit to soar tion ensued. With the the fall higher than the mountains that sur - knowledge that the rounded us. “Hear me now, thou morrow would bring beef-whitted codpiece sniffers, the similar conditions, we time is upon us for high adventure concurred that the on yonder precipice!” requirement was for a In due course, we were treading route that would ‘go’ in the stony track past Lagangarbh, the wet, but still deliver and soon we were beneath the a satisfying outing, with - complex arrangement of gullies, out being technically ribs and buttresses that make up demanding. After toss - Stob Dearg’s impressive façade. It ing around a few ideas was then that the weather pattern we plumped for Curved was set for the next few hours. A Ridge, the classic grade brief cloudburst left the wet crags 2/3 scramble on Stob gleaming like silver in the morning Dearg, the eastern outpost of Buachaille Etive sun and the air fresh and clean. Mòr. Before long we had reached the Waterslide With our plans settled, I was then free to pay Slab, a key landmark in order for us to find the some attention to my bottle of Glenmorangie start of our route and our cue to start ascend - which had been calling “Come hither” through - ing. I checked the guidebook and was pretty out our discourse. A nice drop indeed and a sure that our way lay up the obvious ridge to welcome change from my usual tipple the left of a small gully. Juggs was in agreement ‘Trampagne’, which would have been most and we made our way to its foot. incongruous in our highland setting. I did pity Beautiful scrambling took us upwards at a my companion’s choice of refreshment, the rapid rate and soon the feeling of air beneath Famous Grouse and Tennents lager respectively. our boots intoxicated us, we were alive again. But was I going to share my malt? At £30 a bot - After a couple of hundred feet we encountered tle, I most certainly was not; a decision I would a slimy wall barring the entry to a chimney. Juggs regret come the morning. made an inspection, but didn’t fancy it and tra - versed airily out to the left, finding a route to
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 25 MOUNTAINEERING
Nick heading up the chimney, up which he quickly disappeared. to the Douglas I was then joined by Nobz who had been Boulder labouring under the weight of the rope in his sack. We discussed how we would tackle the next section, as neither of us liked the look of Jamie’s traverse line. It was exposed and unprotectable, so we decided to “I rope up and climb the wall and was in sheer chimney as a conventional TERROR and was con - rock pitch. Nobz led the wall and although a ‘one-move vinced that I was watching “Things,” I mused, “are getting a wonder’, he was thankful of a dear friend fall to his little too spicy for my liking.” the two good nut place - death. And then I thought I explained to Nobz that I ments he’d found. Then, he about the belay; it was less was having an off day, so he too scampered up the chim - than ideal and he would took some gear from me and ney and brought me up to a surely pull me off with quickly climbed above my high large and comfortable ‘smokers him to OBLIVION ” point, where he found an indifferent ledge’, where we could take in the placement. Further up he found better view over Rannoch Moor, with its many gear, and a move later he was standing lochans and a distant Shiehallion. below the crux that Juggs had found so thought- Easier ground lay above, so we took chest provoking. I shouted encouragement from coils and moved together up grotty grooves, below, but Nobz gave me a knowing look and I until we met with another wall, this one steeper was glad that it was him up there and not me. and some 20 metres high. By this time Juggs had Nobz groped around looking for good holds … almost scaled the beast, but had stopped climb - there weren’t any and I, fearing an imminent fall, ing and was puzzling out the way ahead. “It’s started to pray in earnest. Nobz would have to bold,” he called down. “You may want to pitch make a leap of faith, get his feet high and hope it.” for better holds above. “Too bloody right,” I thought. “This doesn’t He steeled himself and went for it, struggling look like a grade 2 scramble to me.” After a to remain in contact with the rock. His hands moment’s thought, Juggs made the move and slapped in desperation, his feet scrabbled about reached the top of the wall, hooting with relief, in search of friction and then, with a muffled cry “It’s all there, but it’s incredibly exposed.” of resignation, he fell. The following split seconds felt like eons as I A bit too spicy! watched him bounce off a ledge and invert I was now becoming a little nervous, so rather before another ledge righted him. I was in sheer than hang about and fret I started to climb. terror and was convinced that I was watching a There didn’t seem to be any protection and my dear friend fall to his death. And then I thought resolve was waning. Up I went, then down again, about the belay; it was less than ideal and he repeating the sequence until I conceded defeat. would surely pull me off with him to oblivion. My head was going and I just hoped that Nobz We were caught in the irreversible process of was up to the challenge, as there was no way ruining our friends and families lives and I felt so Juggs could return and lead the pitch for us. sorry for what we were doing to them…
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 26 Summer 2008 Nick, back at the Manse … But then, with a jolt, Barn, glad to be alive. he stopped. The gear had held. I looked down at my hands on the dead rope, my knuckles white in their death grip on our slender lifeline. For a few moments there was silence, a much needed respite from the horrific scraping and thudding that had accompanied the fall. To Nobz’ surprise, he hadn’t broken anything in the fall and apart from further adding to my misery. Soon I was getting some minor cuts, he was fine and slowly down- cold and not long after that I started shivering climbed as I held the rope tight. I then shouted uncontrollably. “Oh god, hypothermia,” I was in up to Juggs, “Nobz has fallen, we’re going down. the depths of despair and had taken to talking You carry on to the top and we’ll see you back to myself for company. at the car.” This was my last lucid act of the day, Eventually, Nobz came into view at the top of as I felt myself descending into shock. the first groove. He’d been battling with a jammed rope and was quite literally at the end Frayed nerves and ropes of his tether. When at long last he escaped the As Nobz joined me at the belay, we realised just groove, I had long gone into myself and shaking how lucky we had been. Just above Nobz’ stop - more violently than ever. The ‘smoker’s ledge’ per knot the rope was badly damaged; the core was just around the corner, so using the last of was broken and a frayed sheath was all that was my resolve, I crawled around to it and we keeping it in one piece. I felt like crying, but scouted around for anchors. “Bugger. There’s couldn’t; I was numb. Nobz on the other hand nothing to abseil off.” was calm, in control and set about planning our Nobz was becoming despondent and we escape, nonchalant and matter of fact in his talked about our options, knowing that we really delivery. only had one. Though unspoken, we knew that First, he retied onto the rope above the dam - we were trapped and to consider down-climb - age and set about lowering me down the ing would possibly see the situation spiralling grooves. This took time, as I was all but spent; out of control. It was now 5pm and we had his patience and encouragement paying divi - spent three hours trying to extract ourselves dends. At the bottom of the grooves I anchored from our situation. “That’s it!” I snapped, “I’m myself to the rock and waited for him to arrive. going to call Mountain Rescue. I don’t want to An hour passed and still he hadn’t appeared. but we’re f***ed”. Nobz said nothing, but the “What the heck is going on up there,” I bel - look he gave me reassured me that I was doing lowed. Nobz’ shouts were lost to the wind and the right thing. I cursed myself for setting foot on this moun - The rescue tain. Then the rain came down in a tremendous and persistent deluge, soaking my tobacco and I made the call and the police operator told me
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 27 MOUNTAINEERING
that Juggs had already called them and they fell from my waist. Up I went, not able to com - would be with us soon. It was then that we prehend what was happening to me, but amazed looked down to Lagangarbh and saw a team at how different the mountain looked from my coming for us. “How could we have got into so improbable vantage point. much trouble on a grade 2 scramble”? It didn’t Before I knew what was happening I saw the make sense and we were ashamed to have had footrest above me and a second later I was to resort to such drastic action. bundled into the helicopter, still shaking. I was Within minutes of making the call, a distinctive strapped in and then threw my arm around rumbling was heard to be coming from Glen Nobz’ shoulder. Our relief was all consuming Etive, and then we saw its origins. “I don’t and our heads swimming so much that we had believe it Nobz, they’ve sent a bloody helicop - failed to notice a girl with a TV camera to our ter.” I was incredulous and not a little worried right. “Channel 5” said the winchman. “You’ve about what this meant; I hate flying. I didn’t want got to be joking”! to fly. A short time later we The helicopter got closer had landed at Lagangarbh and then the door and were ushered out of opened. We waved at the the helicopter to face our crew and having made audience. A tearful Juggs visual contact with us they gave me a massive hug and swung away in a wide arc led me to the Mountain returning a minute or two Rescue vehicle where they later. Slowly, they sidled up offered us food and drink. to the side of the moun - We then learnt that we Where they went wrong. tain. The noise was deafen - hadn’t been on Curved ing and I shouted to Nobz, Ridge at all, but D Gully “Downdraft, get down”. Soon they were hover - Buttress instead. It was explained to us that it is ing directly above us and we clung to the rock, I a common mistake and happens a lot. Also, the was anchored to a boulder, but Nobz wasn’t place where Nobz fell was called Hell’s Wall, a and I feared he would be blown from the moun - severe. tain. I also had grave fears that the rotor blades Before the SAR left the scene, the girl with the would make contact with the crag above and camera came to interview us and said that they the consequences of such an occurrence. were filming a new series about the Royal Navy Suddenly there was three of us on the ledge. SAR team and would we give permission for We had been joined by Royal Navy search and them to show our rescue? “Well,” I said. “After rescue (SAR) and he tapped an oblivious Nobz all that I’d be annoyed if you didn’t.” on his helmet. He barked orders to untie and All in all it had been an incredible day and an Nobz complied, before our rescuer placed a experience I shall never forget. My heartfelt large sling like harness over his head and under thanks go out to Nobz for dealing with me, Juggs his arms. And then they were gone. for raising the alarm, and most humbly to the RN When my turn came I was all fingers and SAR team and the Glencoe Mountain Rescue thumbs and it took me too long to untie from who were fantastic and didn’t give us the bollock - the rope and anchor. I was being shouted at and ing that some might say we deserved. I struggled to free myself, until at last the rope Be careful out there folks.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 28 Summer 2008 CLIMBING Climbing and cold beers in Wales Jez Gittins, Kevin Kilroy and Matt Shrub introduce some newbies to Holyhead and Tremadog at the May Novice’s Meet in Wales This year’s hut meet had a crags! good mix of folk old and new Saturday dawned turn up for the club’s annual with showers that Novice’s Meet. Joe Begley soon cleared and a hopped over from Stafford, blue horizon was Peter Lane took a short leap seen in the north, so from Chester and there was a we headed for the healthy contingent from the Peterborough region. Jean Roberts, Fixing Luke’s new car (top) and Luke Williams, Dave Jez belaying Malc up ‘Bloody Croxford, Ian Pink and Fingers’ at Holyhead. Rachel Meadows, Malcolm and Daniel coast and some of the longer Flatt, Nick Livesey, our routes on Tremadog. Joe visiting Irish took Richard and Nick over Leprechaun, Kevin to Llanberis Pass to tackle Kilroy, and myself all “Flying Buttress”. This classic travelled up late Friday. coast and Holyhead. Most of had been on Nick’s wish list We were joined by some us set up camp around the for a long time and he was newer folk wanting to experi - slab section of the right-hand keen to join in. At Tremadog, ence more of the outside end, just knocking off the eas - we divided into three groups environment in the form of ier routes so Matt and and tackled some big routes: Matt Shrub and Steve Harby Richard could get some expe - “Monkey Puzzle”, “Scratch from the ‘boro and Joe’s work rience of the outdoor envi - Arête” and “Poor Man’s colleague, Richard, also from ronment. Later we headed Peuterey”, before a bite to Stafford. towards the left-hand end for eat at the café. On the way Matt and Steve had both some of the harder climbs home, we had a pit stop, as done some climbing at the once everyone felt happier one of the rear wheel drums wall and some varying stuff with the situation. Some of on Luke’s new car (which he outside, but limited leading. the more experienced guys got off e-bay – it goes like a Richard had been lured to the headed for harder routes, tak - Jaguar, but it’s got a jumpy hut by Joe’s invitation of some ing newbie Steve with them, CD player!) was making “walking in the hills”, but little eager for some crimpy strange noises… did he know that in fact he routes. Overall, a great weekend – too would soon join the Sunday saw most of us with a theme-tune of Feeder’s throng and head for the choose to head for the west Buck Rodgers…!
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 29 CLIMBING Some thoughts from some interesting route with Kev, Luke, Malc, Dan and Steve of the others at the meet: (from l-r). spectacular views and Matt Shrub : “A legendary more importantly, weekend – hot weather, cold from my beginners beer, good company and inter - point of view – great esting routes! As an outdoor holds. Far too quickly climbing newbie, the final days it was all over and we ascent of the multi-pitch 220 were chatting at the feet “Poor Man’s Peuterey” top, can’t wait for the (graded severe) was the high - next meet – see you light of the all there!” weekend – Kev leading at Tremadog. “They got the satisfaction of my fragile Kevin Kilroy : a post-climb pint in one of beginners “I think the North Wales’ most famous confidence novices got climbing bars and just how was dealt ini - some great well Eric Jones can make tial blows by first-time cheese toasties! I hope that much confu - climbs in. They they will return to the club on sion finding got to feel the the following trips over the the start of exposure on summer and learn more about the route, some of our strange passion. And with which did Tremadog’s big time (plus one or two epics that mean we were actually classics and picked up a thing as well, of course) find their ascending an E1! or two about building belays niche in the widespread sport “Initial fears melted away and placing gear on Holyhead of mountaineering.” though as we ascended an Mountain’s tamer edges.
Late May Bank Holiday in the Peak A good forecast for the late May Bank Holiday recent retirement weekend saw a few people venture out for the and is now climbing first time in many a month, even many a year, when she can, often writes Jez Gittins . midweek in peace The weather was forecast to be a sunny, and tranquillity! clear day and a few people arranged to meet Luke Williams had up for some good ol’ grit. not been to Birchen Kev Trickey came out for the first time in a before, so it was a couple of years since the club trip to Jersey in good introduction to 2006 with his squeeze Rachel in tow to intro - another crag and we duce her to the delights of the Peak. Kev has soon ticked off been recovering from a bad ankle injury that some of the classics. has limited his activity, but he enjoyed the Matt Shrub fresh from the Novice’s Meet, good weather. Ben Robotham brought brought his partner May out to meet some of Christiana along who had never tried climbing the club, before heading for a 12-mile jaunt outside and soon they were sampling some of around Stanage and ex-PMC member Grant the slabs of Birchen. They had travelled up came up from London with his partner, with Lin and Nigel. Lin has been enjoying her Heather, for the weekend.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 30 Summer 2008 RED Pencil Direct Pete Machin meets his childhood demon on the Yorkshire Dales Meet
My hip flexor was beginning to cramp; I had been locked off in a strenuous Egyptian, bridged between the wall and the arête des - perately trying to get the hex to seat securely. A quick tug and it turned and jammed into position. Another move up, laying away from the crack in the cor - ner; the next move would defeat the bulge and get me onto the wall where things looked easier. But as my eyes scanned the next few Pen Y Ghent, metres of climbing, I saw very Red Pencil. west end. little in the way of obvious gear placements. My bridge position was now rest position. wider so as to make the best I looked down. use of the footholds and I was Matt was a long now close to my limit of flexi - way below now. The bility. My thighs began to ground fell away scream at me whilst I fumbled steeply below him around with the cam. giving me a sense of Eventually I placed the cam in extreme exposure. the crack. It didn’t feel brilliant, but I had spent Was it the exposure that was making this HS too long faffing with it and the thighs were feel bold and scary, or was it true what I had starting their protest again. I clipped it, widened heard about the Yorkshire grades being hard. my stance again to give a better angle at the Maybe something else was going on... bulge and moved up. The holds dried up and I This route had scared me from the moment I was left in a horrible bridge. I managed a quick had learned of its existence. Long before then, I glance at the cam; it was only just cammed and remember that awe struck, daunted feeling at would work more like a nut. I guessed it would seeing Pen Y Ghent for the first time. Its dark, be OK and tried to have faith in it. steep-sided, whale-back shape rising abruptly For the next few moments, I was sure I was out of the surrounding light green dale. I must off. Standing, stretching up with the left hand; have been six years old at the time. My parents hoping that the small indentation high above took me camping in the Yorkshire Dales year me would provide enough friction to prevent after year; I loved the place. Well, I still do. It me having to test the cam. To my amazement, feels like home and I have decided I need to the small indentation was a hidden jug; a spend more time there. “thank-God hold” that could not have been in a Walking up the path (which is the Pennine better position. I took weight on the left arm Way) is quite challenging itself. It is steep, but it and smeared through the bulge and found a is the macabre atmosphere that this giant lump
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 31 CLIMBING
of dark Gritstone moorland; an island in a lime - stone Dale, that fuels the senses and creates this scene of overwhelming grandeur. I had often wondered if you could gain the summit from the west over the steep nose. The seed was set, but it lay dormant for 24 years in the soils of my imagination, until I read about Red Pencil Direct in Classic Rock. For the last four years, the thought of Red Pencil made me shudder, right up until a few months ago, when I Abie passing ‘the roof’ started thinking about routes to climb on the (top); Matt on Yorkshire Ales meet. Red Pencil was haunting Cynet Chewer (left); the red me, and it was time to lay that ghost to rest. pencil from The fear gradually turned to excitement, and I which the route gets its knew I was ready. name (below). ... The wall gradually steepened and more bridging was required until I came up under - neath the roof. At this point, I had the choice of pulling over the roof, but that was a different route. I was here for Red Pencil Direct, which enthusiasm was un-dampened; the instant Matt oddly for a ‘direct’ route, passed the roof on was safe, she asked if I would throw the rope the right. I made an awkward bridge, my body down for her to have a play. Both Abie and Jean twisted and contorted. I was trying to lift my joined us at the top of a very splendid climb. left foot high enough to enjoy a small ledge that Abie wanted to have a go at Damocles was behind me. Once it was secure, I twisted Groove; another HS 4b. She was reluctant to further and reached out right and stepped lead it herself. My head was still out of sorts around the roof. from Red Pencil Direct, but you know how girls “What in the hell kind of move was that?” have a way of asking that makes it impossible Matt asked. for a boy to refuse? You guessed it; I found I smiled to myself. There was undoubtedly a myself climbing a few easy walls of rock that plethora of easier ways to have executed that were interspersed by grass terraces before move, but I didn’t care, I was home and dry. finding myself underneath an impossibly awk - Traditional climbs have rather unique moves ward bulge. I tried this way and that; rearrang - that will never be practised at the wall, at Font ing my feet and trying the holds differently, but or at the local branch of Ikea (other furniture alas, I just could not reach high enough to lock shops are available) where society seems to onto a positive hold. spend, or rather waste its weekends. A degree of ledge-phillia had set in; I felt com - I reached the top, set the anchors and let fortable and safe where I was, and that made Matt loose on the climb. He was steaming the other options quite resistible. I had to do through the upper sections and thoroughly something, if only for the sake of my fellows enjoying himself when Abie and Jean appeared. down below, who by now must have been The mile-and-a-half long and steep walk in had bored stiff. left them sweating and panting, but Abie’s Two options came to mind; I had a bomb-
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 32 Summer 2008 proof nut placement that I could abseil off, will explain the naming. which would mean sacrificing gear, but would Sunday dawned with beautiful blue skies. The be a fast way down. Alternatively, if a top rope combination of the local wood pigeon, a full could be arranged, Matt, Abie or Jean could bladder and the effects of Matt’s Three Bean climb to where I was and clean the gear. I could Curry the night before ensured Matt and I then lower them off and be lowered myself. were up and about before 6am. We mooched This could be time-consuming, but wouldn’t about for a while, but eventually couldn’t sacrifice any gear. resist waking the girls. They weren’t too Abie trotted up the descent path and soon chuffed; 6.30 on a Sunday morning was per - lowered a rope down. I tied in and had a haps a little mean, but once breakfast was bel - quick go at the steep wall lied, we had a nice walk that was above me on top along the river; past Janet’s rope. Surprisingly, the wall Foss waterfall and through submitted quite nicely, but to Malham village (I’ve done the short roof above it was this walk many times having none of it. Before before, but never with two long, Abie had my entire ecologists!). body weight hanging from We walked up the road to her harness. Malham Cove and had a She lowered me back to wander along the famous the nice ledge, I arranged an Limestone Pavement, where anchor and Matt scampered Peregrine falcons gave us a up what I had already real treat, as they swept climbed; grumbling about its into the cove to feed their lack of quality. I lowered him fat fluffy chicks. down, and then Abie low - We decided to climb at ered me down. All in all, it Giggleswick South. It is a was an excellent team effort, but too much sport-climbing venue and we figured we would time had been wasted and it was now time to be able to tick of a few routes quite quickly. pack away and start preparing for the pub. Unfortunately, the first two routes we climbed Back at the campsite Matt helped the girls (Cygneture Tune and Cynet Chewer, both 5+) erect their tents and I made a brew. We then were seriously pumpy. Matt took his first lead met up with Luke Wally Williams in the pub. fall on what was his first ever lead; a spectacu - He had driven up the night before with Grant lar four-metre plunge into a spiky bush that and Heather. They had arrived late and had was growing out of the crag. Abie, who was pitched at the opposite end of the field to us. belaying was dragged head first into the same They had been climbing at Giggleswick South bush. and Luke had thoroughly enjoyed it. Abie and Matt had learned a lot from the Whist staggering back from the pub, we weekend. Abie learned what holding a big fall spotted a roadside barn that was just asking was like and gained experience from rescuing for a spot of buildering. I set a new route up me from Damocles Groove, a situation which the North wall. I graded it at Mod and named also gave good insight to Matt. Matt experienced it ‘Pay once, ride all day’. If you ask nicely, I a big fall and will now trust the equipment.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 33 CLIMBING “For she’s a jolly good cottage…”
Lin Marsh reports on an excellent weekend’s climbing and the snoring rules at the Cottage’s 50th Birthday Party Meet The weekend commencing 30th May, had been the BBC website every half hour in the preced - designated by Clive to be our Bethesda ing week) was fine and sunny, though the Cottage’s 50th Birthday Weekend. An invitation midges were in full force due to lack of breeze. was given out to all PMC members and also to Poor Matt Shrubb and Fay were nearly eaten our Wellingborough colleagues. alive in their tent, so much so, that they retreat - I made a point of getting up to the cottage real - ed on Saturday afternoon (about the same time ly early on Friday as the midges (or so I did!). Sorry Crib Goch. thought!), but Matt. even so, the cot - On Friday tage side was evening we pretty full with made the usual Wellingborough enthusiastic members; plans for our though we man - Saturday’s activi - aged to grab a ties. Paul few bunks. Rowlands and I Now, I’m reli - had made our ably informed plan to do Main that one of the Wall, but unfor - rules of the cot - tunately we had tage is that it’s acceptable (or possibly manda - to call it off as Paul managed to crush his finger tory!) to chuck heavy objects – say up to a pair (bizarrely whilst laminating a copy of the route of size-11 mountain boots – at any snorers, but at work), so he and Nig decided to do I wasn’t sure if this applied to members who Snowden via Crib Goch, and I joined Malcolm were our guests, so I didn’t. I just lay there Flatt to climb Dives/Better Things ( HS 4B) at grinding my teeth and planning unspeakable Cromlech. A lovely route, with a tricky crux acts. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE! (Or per - pitch at the top. haps not – after all you were asleep… The only Meanwhile, Daniel led Kev Yallup up Cenotaph one who was!) Corner (the classic 3 star E1 5C ) in fine style The cottage has certainly come a long way in (so Dan said anyway) – they managed to get in 50 years, now sporting a proper slate roof (as quite a lot of routes by ab’ing down each time. opposed to its original turf one). We are really These included Holly Buttress and Pharoahs so lucky to have this great facility, which in Wall, two one star VS 4C’s. some way compensates for us living in the Malc insisted on us scrambling down a nasty dreaded “flatlands”. scree slope, which took much longer, so we The weather (as arranged by me, by checking only did a couple of routes. The walk down was
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 34 Summer 2008 horrid, and trashed my poor knees. We called into a great pub to refresh ourselves. Alison and Will also had a good day, though we upset Will in the pub when We are no-one was willing to sit in the sun - really so lucky to shine with him (too hot). These have this great Aussies need educating in the ways of facility, which in us Brits – for example, any tempera - some way com - ture over about 70°F and we retreat pensates for us into the shade, muttering “I can’t stand living in the it when its too ‘ot.” dreaded “flat - Back at the cottage an lands”. exhausted, but happy crowd met up and cooked our various con - coctions – some stranger than others – we managed the obliga - years by having a large tory setting off of the lump of rock fall off it. fire alarm (I think that Meanwhile Nig and Paul was Rob Pontefract’s set off for Holyhead for fry-up). a gentler hike, where I Later we were all ush - understand Nig attempt - ered into the cottage ed to teach Paul the dif - where Clive made his ference between a entry with a magnificent Guillemot and a Seagull, birthday cake, ablaze and raved about his with loads of candles favourite Choughs (that’s (surely 50??), and Dan aerobatic crows with red Flatt and Robin Phillips, as the youngest and beaks and legs for the uninitiated – Paul still oldest members present, blew out the candles. can’t tell the difference). I gather they had a Don’t know what Robin wished for, but am nice day and ate lots of ice-cream. willing to bet that Dan’s wish involved lots of Meanwhile, Gill, Sheelagh, Clive and myself set “E” numbers. off for the Moelwyns, and had a really lovely We all sang “Happy Birthday Dear Cottage, day climbing Kirkus Direct (two star S4A). It and “For she’s a jolly good cottage”, etc. and was a perfect Sunday climb – reasonable walk- then stuffed ourselves with some tasty cake. in, four pitch route (with an interesting steep After a few more drinks we dragged our corner finish for variety) on wonderful rhyolite exhausted bodies to bed, to recoup for Sunday. rock, and we finished at 3.30pm in time to Sunday dawned bright and early-ish – well we meet up with Nig and Paul for more ice cream. had had a tiring Saturday. Malcolm and Dan set We sped off down the A5, and got home in off to climb Nea, a well known classic three record time. star VS 4B, which has changed in the last few A great birthday weekend!
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 35 MTBIKING On yer bike...
Mountain biking around Peterborough isn’t full of technical descents, hard climbs, or twisty sin - gle track, but there is plenty of pleasant coun - tryside routes for all abilities and to keep you interested and fit in between your trips to the Peaks / Yorkshire / Lakes / Wales / Scotland! Russ Newell has selected a route for the Summer issue of Take In! for you all to try… Russ on the Marholm to Sulehay ride. The route Length: 19 miles Road and take the first bri - Time: 1.45-2 hours dleway on the right. Terrain: Mostly bridle - 4 ways, with short Follow the bridleway, emerging on Heath Road, wooded section. crossing over into Castor You will need: OS Maps Hanglands. Explorer 234 and 235 (Peterborough and 4Follow the bridleway Rutland Water). through Castor Hanglands, 4Start at the Green Man turning right at the end. (Fitzwilliam Arms) pub in Marholm. 4The bridleway takes you into Upton, where you can stop to admire the church and the 4Turn right at the crossroads down Castor pretty rural village.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 36 Summer 2008 Get your free 4 inner tube Turning left onto the road and then right. from Terry Take the next bridleway to Sacrewell Farm Wrights in (where you can stop at the café for a cake and Deeping St coffee). James!
4Exit Sacrewell Farm and cross the A47 (with care!) into the Parking area. Follow the path under the A1 into 4 Wansford.
4 a bridleway into Old Sulehay Woods. Find your Follow own route through here as there are some Wansford Road, lovely sections of windy singletrack through the turning right onto woods (beware of walkers and footpaths though).
4Exit Sulehay and turn left onto the road and then left again to Yarwell.
4Turn left in Yarwell back onto Rough route description: an OS map will help you Wansford road and navigate the route. follow the same route back.
PMC members: 4 FREE INNER TUBE in store for members that come in & mention this advert! 4 10% discount in the shop
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 37 MOUNTAINEERING
VDia FOerratLa anOd speMctacuIlarT ItaElian Smou nDtainEs, wLith lIasGhingsH of T excitement and exposure were the making of one of the best PMC meets ever, says Pete Machin
The Dolomites had been my introduction to and in retrieving the injured, or indeed, killed Alpine mountaineering and the start of a series soldiers. of adventures where I would meet many new Today, climbers use these for pleasure, and a people and make some very special friends. It whole lot of pleasure it is. They make easier was inevitable that I would return, and perhaps access to high mountains, but they are in no way also inevitable that I would take with me some easy. A high degree of fitness, a good head for of those friends to introduce them to what is a heights and exposure and, in many cases, some truly beautiful mountain range and an amazing climbing skills are a requirement. Of course, if it way to climb those mountains. gets too hard, you can haul on the cable, but Via Ferrata translates to ‘Iron Way’ and they being British climbers; this is deemed cheating were constructed in World War One, so that and is avoided until absolutely necessary. the troops could defend the Austrian-Italian Abie, Jean, Peter, Pinky, Rachel, Russ, Sheelagh border high up in the mountains. Steel and her partner Bill, and I met up in the village cables, ladders and bridges were of La Villa. Bill is a keen cyclist with an unprece - constructed across steep, dented level of fitness and he was there to high and exposed walls cycle the steep passes of the region. of limestone to aid the Little time was wasted and Abie, Jean, troops in equipping Sheelagh, Russ and I geared up and headed into the gun placements the hills for some quick evening action.
Abie, Russ, Sheelagh and Jean on day one: Piz du Cir.
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 38 Summer 2008 The underlying aim of the exer - cise was to make sure every - one in the group knew how to use the equipment safely and efficiently. The short and straightforward 2B route, Piz du Cir was chosen before retir - ing to bed – it had been a long day travelling. Pinky, Rachel and Peter were having rather a long day in the mountains and found crossing snow gullies without axes and Sheelagh on an crampons a little ‘exciting’. exposed section! Day two started with won - derful clear skies. Abie, Sheelagh, Russ and I set was not running due to renovation work. out for the monstrous Brigata Tridentina route. Plan B was soon devised. The 3b Piz du Lech A very high quality, but very busy 3b, that is route is awesome. It comes with many hard almost a kilometre long. climbing moves; side pulls have to be sought The Tridentina route has this ability to appear out and narrow ledges have to be mantled all to go on forever. The exposure builds and builds of the way up to a monstrous wall that has two and the crux is saved for the final steep epic ladders bolted to it. The exposure section. If this was climbed tradi - “From here is overwhelming, and the step tionally, it would probably attract the top of the between the ladders is most awk - a VS grading due to the expo - ladders, a rumble of ward. Everybody expressed dis - sure. There are a couple of thunder was heard belief at what they had climbed. moves on a rounded bulge that echoing through the From the top of the ladders, a feel a bit 4a-ish; this though, is valleys...” rumble of thunder was heard played out with a few hundred echoing through the valleys. So we metres of open space directly beneath picked up our pace and unclipped from the climber’s boots. This leads to a ladder that the cable as quickly as possible. It is not had to be gained with a pull through an over - favourable to be connected to a steel cable hang. From the ladder top, the route eases in when there is lightening about! seriousness to a bridge over a ‘bottomless’ More rumbles followed and the storm system gorge. became visible and moving pretty much straight A well-deserved rest is taken at the exit of for us. The wind was gaining in strength and our the route. Everyone was tired, but buzzing with situation at almost 3,000 metres above sea level excitement from the quality of the climb. didn’t look too promising. There was still quite I suggested the excellent 4b route, Via dela a way to go to reach the cable car station and Trincee for the next day. The cable car whisks safety, so speed was essential. passengers from Arabba right up to the foot of Unfortunately, Jean was suffering. She had bro - the climbing, and then it is six hours of slab, ridge ken a metatarsal some weeks before the trip, and WW1 tunnels. Unfortunately, the cable car and it was flaring up again. She limped and
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 39 MOUNTAINEERING
struggled, with a pained expression etched morning ablutions, while I ran excitedly upstairs upon her face. I tried to give some words of (like a 10-year-old boy on Christmas morning) encouragement, but with hindsight I knew I’d to tell Abie and Sheelagh the plan. Of course, I probably said completely the wrong thing. lied; I told them it was 800-metres vertical to Nothing new there. Jean displayed an amazing the start of the route and should only take an level of determination and resolve and just kept hour-and-a-half to get there. The route would going. Thankfully, the front of the storm moved take five hours with an hour descent. away to the north, allowing those in its path “Easy peasy … Oh, and the weather is going more time to escape. Everyone was safely on to be good,” I added. the valley floor when the tempest let its The walk up to the start of the route was wrath and power be felt. brutal. I was carrying a rope just as a Many options were open for precaution should anything go the last day; all of which wrong. That extra weight was were weather-dependant. not going to make the The plan was to meet heat and humidity in up at 8am to check those steep, lower pas - the weather and tures any more pleas - decide what to do. At urable. 7.45am, there was an Once at the top of unpromising low the path, we found a cloud cover. The seat by the upper cable favoured plans were car station and had abolished and everyone something to eat. Abie went back to bed with Marmott announced that she was ideas of sport climbing in not going to climb; their minds. instead she would return to I was not satisfied with this. the valley bottom. Abie described Perhaps three excellent and hard mountain her walk back; she stopped many times in the days had taken their toll, and the brief pastures; enjoying the warm sunshine and the encounter with the storm was fresh in their Alpine flora that surrounded her. The sounds of minds; they perhaps considered they might not screeching Marmotts sounding the alarm to the be so lucky a second time; so a bit of roadside other Marmotts about her presence, and the climbing seemed like a good idea. sound of cow bells gently swinging from the My mind was busy. I believe that hiding from necks of their wearer, gave this special place a inclement, or in this case, potential inclement very special atmosphere. She frequently looked weather was the reserve of golf clubs. back; looking at the route of the Trincee; won - Mountaineers are hardy. So, I mentioned to the dering if she would be able to see her three half-asleep Russ about going back to Arabba friends, wondering if they could see her all that and doing the Trincee. “Who cares if the cable way below on the pasture. car isn’t running, we will just walk the vertical The clouds began to build and she realised kilometre to the start of our route.” she shouldn’t be dilatory any longer. With some It would be an enormous challenge; so, of concerned thought for her friends high above course, Russ was up for it and set about his her on those rocks, she made her way back to
40 Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 40 Summer 2008 Arabba and caught a bus for La Villa. sourced at eye *** level. It was a rather strange silence. I guess they Just as the were all contemplating the route that lay ahead retreat options of them. They had said farewell to Abie and were being con - now they were making those secret mental sidered, the preparations in anticipation of the unknown clouds lifted. This challenges that the day might bring. hope was short- The start of the Via Dela Trincee runs up a lived as a deafen - plumb vertical, an almost holdless slab to an ing bang of thun - easier angle slab. A haul on the cable for the der echoed start is unavoidable, but even that isn’t easy. around the val - There was a small possibility that the rope ley’s walls and lin - would be needed for the slab section, so I set gered on for off first, rather hoping that irony didn’t strike many seconds. A Jean carefully clipping on. with its dark humour and leave me being the few flashes fol - one needing the top rope. I stayed positive and lowed, with yet more growls of thunder. hauled myself and heavy rucksack up the rock. A decision was made to head toward escaping It was insanely Russ on a rickety the route, but to strenuous, but soon bridge in reassess the situation rather windy easier ground gave conditions continually and return relief. to the route if the I waited in case weather permitted it. the rope was I was beginning to feel required. It wasn’t the strain of the and they were soon weight of that thank - enjoying climbing fully unrequired rope, the most splendid and so I swapped of slabs with the rucksacks with Russ; a largest of lashings true symbol of team of exposure up and spirit. toward the ridge. Thankfully, the weather granted a permit for At this point, the weather began to show the route to be continued and the three tired signs of a change for the worse. We crossed the and weary climbers finally exited the WW1 rickety bridge with quite a strong wind blowing. tunnels into sunlight, five hours after starting The second section of climbing soon out up those initial steep slabs. The refreshment appeared and its awkward down-climbs were break was never so well deserved. dispatched with ease. By this time, the weather – I would like to express my warmest gratitude was being most threatening. Cloud had com - to Abie, Russ, Jean, Sheelagh, Bill, Pinky, Rachel pletely surrounded us, leaving very little visibili - and Peter for their wonderful support for this ty. Then a short, but painful flurry of hailstones incredible meet. Without you guys, the most let rip onto our exposed skin. This was fol - amazing meet in PMC history would not have lowed by a few flashes of lightening that been possible. You are amazing!
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 41 FEATURE We n e e d to act now!
Jenna Maryniak reports on the emerging picture of climate change
OK, so we know that the climate is changing. the Great Global Warming Swindle (which has On our doorstep, winter routes in the north recently been judged by Ofcom as misrepre - are becoming more of a rarity and wet sum - senting scientists and facts). mers and flooding are becoming the norm. However, there is an International Panel on But more drastic changes are also taking Climate Change, set up by the World place: Meteorological Organization and the United • according to the World Resources Institute, Nations Environment Programme and compris - 100 species become extinct every day as a ing hundreds of scientists internationally, who result of tropical deforestation, and current are in no doubt of the links between human extinction rates rival those of the five greatest activity and climate change. mass extinctions in world history; At a recent conference held by the Royal • we are currently experiencing an annual tem - Society of Medicine and the Royal College of perature rise of 0.7ºC; Veterinary Surgeons, “One World, One • we are also expanding as a species at an Disease” eminent speakers warned that we alarming rate, the population is increasing expo - have to make changes. nentially, and it is thought by 2050 that the Speaker at the conference, Professor Bob population will have increased from 6.5 billion Watson –chief scientific advisor to DEFRA and to at least 9 billion. And standards of living are previous advisor to Al Gore and Bill Clinton – rising all over the world, requiring more indus - warned that without action we face a potential trialisation and resources. future of disease, malnutrition, extreme weath - Despite all this, 60% of us, according to some er, poor air quality, a decrease in quality of life, reports, are still not convinced that the current mass species extinction and population dis - global warming is man made; believing that it’s placement. He said, “Even with aggressive all just scare stories to make headlines / sell us action, we will still experience major changes in more stuff / raise our taxes... This view is being temperature and precipitation. Human-induced helped along by cynical press reports and global warming is occurring. No question. The seemingly respectable documentaries, such as observed changes in temperature simply cannot
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine 42 Summer 2008 be explained by natural phenomenon.” “The main hope, however, is that future plan - He continued: “We cannot wait for perfect ning involves more biologists than economists, knowledge … Political will and moral leader - as the former have a much more realistic grasp ship are needed. ‘Business as usual’ will not of finite resources! work. We as scientists need to communicate “If we cannot learn to live within our means better with the media and politicians.” (one planet living) we will be a relatively short- Organiser of the event, Professor Sheila lived species in evolutionary terms – I don’t Crispin, when asked if there was any hope for mind us exterminating ourselves, but I do the future, explained: “Yes, there is hope and, object to our careless destruction of the envi - paradoxically, that is partly because we are at ronment and its other inhabitants.” the mercy of events outside our control. For We can all do our bit to live more greenly, example, a world-wide pandemic, or global war - spread the word and ultimately put pressure on fare, could be the way in which exponential the policy-makers to make the changes population growth ceases. required, as determined by science and fact. Photo Gallery ALPINE
Belvedere Lac Blanc
View of the Mer de Glace and a chamois Views from a walk from the Planpraz chairlift (Chamonix in the French Alps), via Lac Blanc and the Glacier du Belvédère onto Belvedere: a grade 3 scramble with breathtaking exposure – Jenna Maryniak
Take In! – The Peterborough Mountaineering Club Magazine Summer 2008 43 CCd A tes for your diar PPMM y 16-17 August: Wales Hut Meet 15–16 November: MTB special – Leader: TBA Wales Hut Meet Fill your boots with summery Shenanigans at the cottage. Leader: Will Kimberley 07802 260 516 This meet is a special Mountain Biking event. If you’ve 20-21 September: Wales Hut Meet got a bike, dust off those cobwebs and get it ready for Leader: TBA some fun, thrills and spills on the famous trails of Coed y Summers like this make you wish you were in another Brenin, Betws y Coed and Coed Llandegla. There’s been country! If this year’s prediction of an Indian Summer quite a bit of development over the last year or two, so it comes true then we’re in for a great September meet. So will be great to check out the new trails and swanky come on, get your names on the list! cafés. For those not looking for thrills there are plenty of gentler routes on offer. Check out www.mbwales.com 5 October: Viking Challenge Biker or not, everyone is welcome to attend the meet. Leader: Simon Gough-Brown 01733 246474 50k or 30k off-road cycle around Belvoir Castle with free 7 December: Multi-Media Show home-made cakes along the way. £15 entry fee (before Leader: Nicholas Livesey 07891 595883 12/9/08) or £20 on the day. For more info go to: The annual multi-media presentation and photo competi - www.vikingchallenge.org.uk The plan is to get a group tion is set for Sunday 7th December at 7.30pm in the together and all start together, meeting up at the cake Climbing Wall.- The night will be hosted once again by the stops along the way. ever-lyrical Nick Livesey. It’s sure to be a great night.
18-19 October: Wales Hut Meet 19-21 December: Christmas Hut Meet Ian Pink 07904 171206 Leader: TBA The Indian Summer will be in full swing by October, so let’s make the most of the it. Amazing multi-pitch climb - 31 Dec - 1 Jan: New Year’s Eve – ing, some fantastic crags and even a bit of bouldering joint PMC & WMC party make the drive well worth it. Leader: TBA
November: Winter Sun Rock – TBC 25 January: Pub quiz night This could be your last chance to catch some sunshine Leader: Kevin Trickey 01480 839994 before Winter sets in. We’re going bolt clipping for a week Kev and Rachel from this year’s winning team are hosting in November. The date and destination yet to be decided, the next one. The exact details are yet to be worked out. if you’re interested or have some suggestions please e- It will be held in the Sports Club Bar on Sunday 25/1/09, mail: [email protected] there will be prizes to be won and food laid on. A small entry fee will apply. Events co-ordinator needed! Contact Will: mobile: 07802 260 516; e-mail: [email protected]
We are always looking for meet leaders to host these events. It’s not hard and is a good way to put something back into the club. If you are interested in helping out contact: Will: mobile: 07802 260 516; e-mail: [email protected] For the latest events check out: www.peterboroughmc.org.uk For details of events contact the meet leader or see the Climbing Wall notice board nearer the date.
Note: Non-members are welcome and encouraged to join us at these events. It’s the best time to meet us and find out what PMC is all about. Lifts are normally arranged at the wall on the Tuesday evening before the event. Occasionally an event may change. For confirmation on future events e-mail [email protected] 44