SECTION 3 NORTHEAST AREA INCLUDING SHERIDAN, BUFFALO, DAYTON, GILLETTE, AND NEWCASTLE

184 wagons, a contingent of Pawnee scouts, nearly 500 cavalrymen, and the aging as guide. His column was one of three comprising the Powder River Indian Expedition sent to secure the Bozeman and other emigrant trails leading to the mining fields. During the Battle of , Connor was able to inflict serious damage on the , but an aggressive counter attack forced him to retreat back to the newly estab- lished Fort Connor (later renamed Reno) on the banks of the Powder River. There he received word that he had been reassigned to his old command in the District of Utah. The Powder River Expedition, one of the most comprehensive campaigns against the Plains Indians, never completely succeeded. Connor had planned a complex operation only

to be defeated by bad weather, inhospitable ter- Section 3 rain, and hostile Indians. Long term effects of the Expedition proved detrimental to the inter- ests of the Powder River tribes. The Army, with the establishment of Fort Connor (Reno) increased public awareness of this area which near Sundance. in turn caused more emigrants to use the . This led to public demand for government protection of travelers on their way 1 Food, Lodging T Connor Battlefield State to Montana gold fields. Historic Site Ranchester In Ranchester Pop. 701, Elev. 3,775 Once the site of a bloody battle when General Named by English born senator, D.H. Hardin, Patrick E. Connor’s army attacked and destroyed Ranchester was the site of two significant battles Arapahoe Chief Black Bear’s settlement of 250 during the Plains Indian Wars. In 1865, General lodges. The battlefield is now located in the Patrick E. Connor, an aggressive, anti-Indian com- peaceful and beautiful city park. The site marks the military engagement that was part of the mander at Fort Laramie, was responsible for the I slaughter of 63 men, women, and children in an Powder River Expedition of 1865. The battle NCLUDING village on the Tongue River. Only eight of caused the Arapaho to ally with the and his troopers died in the fight, and the victors took at the the next year. home 1100 ponies. Two days later, the Arapaho T Little Blue Schoolhouse retaliated by attacking a road-building expedition In Ranchester S headed by Col. James Sawyer. Three soldiers were HERIDAN killed, and Connor had to return to rescue the One of the areas oldest schools, it was moved rest. Peace movements in the East prevented to Ranchester in 1988. This 1902 one-room LVF Eatons’ Ranch school from the Parkman area has been com- 270 Eaton Ranch Rd near Sheridan. 655-9552. Connor from killing “all male Indians over the age Toll free 800-210-1049. www.eatonsranch.com , B of twelve,” as he had planned. In 1894, pletely restored. UFFALO

Eatons’ Ranch is a dude and cattle ranch located N Ranchester became a shipping stop on the T Ranchester Museum Burlington railroad for the McShane Tie Company. on the magnificent, pine-covered eastern slopes ORTHEAST 145 Coffeen in Ranchester. 655-2284 of the in northeastern Acme H The Battle of Tongue River . Just eighteen miles west of Sheridan, , D Ranchester at Connor Battlefield Site. From the Greek for “high grade,” Acme was the Ranch consists of 7,000 acres of beautiful AYTON open country with rolling hills, grassy meadows

named for its prime coal, known as “black dia- On this site during the early morning hours of A monds.” Once a coal mine camp, Acme was also a August 29, 1865, General Patrick Edward and hidden valleys. Twisting processions of cot- REA station on the Burlington railroad. It later gave its Connor led over 200 troops in an attack on tonwood and pine trees mark the course of tum- , G bling streams that roll out of the mountains. For name to the Acme Petroleum Corporation, a large Chief Black Bear’s Arapaho village. Connor had ILLETTE Wyoming oil company founded around 1900. departed from Fort Laramie on July 30th with 125 years, they have offered guests a ,

Sheridan AND Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual

Average Max. Temperature (F) 33.3 38.5 45.6 56.5 66.6 76.4 86.2 85.5 73.7 61.3 45.5 36.3 58.8 N Average Min. Temperature (F) 9.0 14.4 20.9 30.4 39.6 47.6 53.8 52.4 42.4 31.9 20.0 11.9 31.2 EWCASTLE Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.72 0.67 1.05 1.86 2.31 2.18 1.07 0.85 1.30 1.24 0.81 0.65 14.69 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 10.9 10.3 12.4 10.5 1.7 0.1 0.0 0.0 1.4 4.7 8.5 11.1 71.5 Average Snow Depth (in.) 3 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 8 / 13 8 / 13 9 / 15 10 / 17 9 / 15 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 12 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 13 Wind Direction NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW Cloud Cover (out of 8) 5.7 5.7 5.6 5.4 5.3 4.5 3.6 3.7 4.0 4.7 5.4 5.4 www.ultimatewyoming.com 141 Montana

SECTION 3

87 Section 3 Section 2 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307

0 Miles 13 23 One inch = approximately 11 miles

Section 5

142 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Section 3 I NCLUDING South Dakota S HERIDAN , B UFFALO N ORTHEAST , D AYTON A REA , G ILLETTE , AND 39 N EWCASTLE

Section 6 www.ultimatewyoming.com 143 SHERIDAN Legend for Section Map AREA 00 Locator number (matches numeric listing in section) 20 f Campsite (number matches 00 number in campsite chart)

N Main St k Fishing Site (number matches 00 number in fishing chart) Fort Rd 17th St Rest stop

15th St Interstate

U.S. Highway 11th St Dana 3 90 Paved State or County Road

8th St St Broadway Gravel/unpaved road

Highland Rd 5th St 5th St Main St Main experience and shared with them a way of life. Lewis St They are proud to carry on a tradition and pre- 1st St 23 serve a ranching heritage that goes back five gen- erations. The Eatons invite you to join them and Kentucky St 4

Scott St experience everything Eatons’ Ranch has to offer.

Section 3 14 Once you have spent time here, you will always be part of Eatons’ and its history. Loucks St Burkitt St 2 Food, Lodging Dayton Pop. 678, Elev. 3,926 Dayton was named for banker Joseph Dayton 5 Thorn. It was established 1n 1882 and gained Colorado Rd fame in 1911 when Susan Whissler, the first woman mayor in the nation was elected. Dayton is also home to Wyoming’s first rodeo held in the 1890s. Parkman No Services Named for Francis Parkman, author of The , this railroad station town was established in Airport Rd Sheridan Ave Map not to scale 1894.

Coffeen Ave Coffeen T Hans Kleiber Museum Brundage Rd 520 Story in Dayton. 655-2217 25 14 The log cabin studio of watercolor artist Hans 87 Kleiber has been preserved for use as a museum and visitors center. Known as the “Artist of the Big Horns”, Kleiber’s work is world renown. Born in Cologne, Italy in 1887, his family moved to Massachusetts in the early 1900s. He later moved D ayton-Ohlman Rd West and after various jobs, moved to Dayton and established himself as an artist. The museum con- 87 90 DAYTON 14 9 tains his press, art books and a number of etch- 14 90 ings. The museum is open Monday through RANCHESTER Saturday during the summer, closed in winter. 1st Ave 2nd Ave All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Map not to scale T Bald Mountain City 3rd Ave Fine-grained gold was discovered here in 1890,

4th Ave Broadway Ave 345 14 and for the next decade, prospectors flocked to Railway St Betty St 345 the area. In 1892, the Fortunatas Mining and

Coffeen St Mlling Company helped establish the town, one

Map not to scale Smith St Hardin St of the largest settlements in the Big Horn Gillette St Main St Wears St

1st Ave Halbert1st St Mountains. The cost of panning, however, out- 2nd Ave 2nd 14 Ave 3rd weighed the value of the yields, and gold fever in Campbell St Barker Rd Tongue River Canyon Rd 14 Gillette St the area ended by 1900.

144 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia H Connor Battlefield State 11th St Marion St Historic Site 10th St Dayton and Gillette St in Dayton 14 Hillpond Dr N Sheridan Ave In 1865 General Patrick E. Connor led the Holmes St Yonkee St 3 Powder River Expedition into this area. This 8th St Skeel St expedition was part of a broad military program 7th St

Spaulding St 6th St to bring the Indians north of the Platte River Custer St 5th St 90 under control and halt their depredations along Joe St the Western Trails. 14 Avon St 3rd St Greystone Av Florence Av Exeter Av Delphi Av Clarendon Av Bellevue Av Adair Av Val Vista St At this site Connor’s command located and N Gould St Broadway St Crook St Burton St 22 attacked a large party of Araphao under Black 2nd St Bear and Old David, destroying 250 lodges. Victoria St 1st St 14 Much of the fighting was hand-to-hand com- A St Map not to scale Pioneer St bat, and many women and children were Alger St killed and captured. Woodworth St 4 E Grinnell St Sheridan Ave Later events proved the campaign of 1865 Smith St Kroe Ln to be undecisive. W Brundage St SHERIDAN Highland Blvd S Linden Ave Thurmond St S Brooks St E Works St H First Woman Mayor Conner St N Custer St in Wyoming DOWNTOWN E Burkitt St Bridge St and W 3rd Ave in Dayton AREA Park St 14 ashington St anby St

Mrs. Susan Wissler, on May 9, 1911, was elect- C W ed mayor of Dayton, Wyoming, then a commu- nity of about 175 people. She served two terms of two years each. Her administration was Pine Dale Ave

marked by civic improvement and community Section 3 Frontier Dr Campbell Dr betterment as her campaign promise to curb Ridgecrest Dr. N Fork gambling and regular the operation of saloons Rawhide Dr. Ln N Fork Piney Creek was, in a measure, fulfilled. Piney Creek R Fish Hat 193 Young Meadow Ln Alpenglow Mrs. Wissler was truly a pioneer. She taught d Morai chery Rd in the public schools of this area for several Rosebud Ln ne Ave. Rd N Piney Rd years and actively encouraged her students to Glacier St Piney Ave. Easy St go on for further study. As a practical nurse she Mt Horne Rd Beaver St Lodore Ave Cottage Grv is remembered for her ministrations in time of Loucks St Fish Hatchery Rd Smith Ave trouble. She also owned and operated a Stag Trl millinery and drygoods store for a number of Ha years. Dayton became her home in 1890. She sburg Dr ck Trl died in 1938. Mt View Rd Fish Hatchery Rd Bu Storybrook Ln

Penrose Ln Businga Rd Doe Trl H Susan Wissler, Wheatley Dr 1853-1938 406 Main St in Dayton French Pete

Skylark Ln Dr Mrs. Susan Wissler owned and operated a bin and Hine Rd I Lob STORY millinery shop at this location while serving as NCLUDING cher Dr mayor of Dayton from 1911 to 1913. Mrs. Trapper Rd Map not to scale s Fi Wissler was the first woman mayor in Wyoming and the first woman to serve consecutive terms as and savor the flavor of Wyoming with a 22oz Rib mayor in the . Mrs. Wissler was an

Eye steak or Elk smothered in Mushroom Brie S excellent teacher and a successful business Gravy. Our updated rooms await, with new top- HERIDAN woman. It is appropriate that she was elected in of-the-line pillow top mattresses, great pillows the first state to grant equal suffrage to women. and cozy comforters for a refreshing night’s sleep. You’ll need it—the mountain has many more

H Sibley Monument , B About 20 mi W of Dayton on U.S. Hwy 14 active days waiting, just off the road. UFFALO Through this vicinity, a scouting party of the S The Monastery N 2nd Cavalry, led by Lt. Frederick W. Sibley, was Creations Gift Shop ORTHEAST

attacked by Sioux and Cheyenne Indians on 859 Main St in Dayton. 655-9013 , D July 7, 1876. In the fight Chief White Antelope was killed. The party abandoned its horses, 3 Food, Lodging AYTON took to the rugged terain, and scouts Frank A Gruard and Baptiste Poirier guided the 26 sol- REA Sheridan , G diers and Chicago Times reporter John F. LFVM The Passage Resort Pop. 15,804, Elev. 3,745 ILLETTE Finerty over the mountains without food, back at Big Horn The Sheridan area has been valuable territory to their main camp. U.S. Hwy 14, Burgess Jct, Scenic Route to since the days when only Native Americans Yellowstone, near Dayton. 751-7599. roamed here, along with the buffalo and other www.thepassageresort.com , wild game. Once a prized hunting ground, it was AND DAYTON DAYS The Passage Resort provides guests access to the often disputed even before white men came. It spectacular Big Horn Mountains with stunning was not until the establishment of the Bozeman N

mountain meadows, pine forests, and abundant Trail, however, that the Sioux, Cheyenne, EWCASTLE The last week in July, Dayton Days boasts a wildlife. You’ll see Moose, Elk, and Deer every Arapaho, and other tribes came together to fight large parade, games, duck races, crafts and day within minutes of the lodge. From the lodge off the increasing influx of settlers. food vendors in the park, pet parade, fun step into the scenery by renting a Jeep, ATV or Some of the bloodiest battles of the Plains walk, softball games, Rotary Club breakfast, Mountain Bike and visit the many lakes, rivers, Indian War, which took place in the 1860s and entertainment, outdoor dances, barbecue streams and waterfalls the Big Horns are famous 70s, occurred nearby. The Fetterman Fight, and firemen’s water fights. for. Return to enjoy the rustic elegance of the Wagon Box Fight, Connor and Sawyer Battles, the newly remodeled lodge. Relax in the dining room Battle of the Rosebud, the Dull Knife Battle, and www.ultimatewyoming.com 145 the Battle of the Little Bighorn all took place tain lions, sharp-tailed grouse, wild turkeys, Inn is an ideal place to rest while in beautiful within just miles of Sheridan. For that reason, black-billed magpies and over 300 other kinds Sheridan. Each guest room includes a fridge, this portion of the Bozeman Trail became known of wildlife inhabit the foothills and riparian microwave, 50 cable TV channels, A/C, radio, as the Bloody Bozeman. It was not until the sur- areas. Notice the diverse habitat types which alarm clock, iron/board, and more. WIFI and render of leaders such as Red Cloud, Crazy make this area so productive for wildlife. The lobby internet, dataport telephones and wake-up Horse, and that hostilities eased, and riparian zones bordered by stands of cotton- calls offer guests comfort and convenience in the area was open to settlement. wood trees and cropland provide excellent addition to the 24-hour front desk, guest laundry, In 1878, Jim Mason built the feeding areas. The steep foothills of the Big vending, barbeque area, outdoor plug-ins, and first permanent building here. A store and post Horns furnish crucial winter range for big game. drive-up parking. Before exploring the area’s office opened in 1881. Storeowner Harry Mandel Discover more about the current status of beautiful outdoors, historic sites, and great shop- sold the place to Jim Loucks, who planned the bighorn sheep and the diverse wildlife commu- ping, wake up to a complimentary deluxe break- town and named it for his Civil War commander, nities of Wyoming by touring the Wyoming fast including eggs, waffles, cereal, fruit, and General Philip Sheridan. Homesteaders and cattle Game and Fish Department Visitor Center gourmet coffee. With so many amenities and an ranchers moved into the area, creating an agricul- across the highway. ideal location halfway between Yellowstone and tural crossroads where the Burlington Railroad set Mt. Rushmore, Americas Best Value Inn guaran- up a stop in 1892. The discovery of coal in the area tees a great night’s sleep and an enjoyable stay. added to the towns growing prosperity. The build- ing of several flourmills and a sugar beet factory S L.A.’s Antiques and Things contributed to the economy as well. The twentieth 645 E 5th St in Sheridan. 673-0323 century brought several booms and busts, but now M Sheridan Travel and Tourism the city has settled into a serene mix of agriculture, E 5th St in Sheridan. 673-7120 energy production, and tourism. The lowest city in Wyoming, Sheridan’s eleva- 4 Food, Lodging tion is 3745 feet. T Sheridan Chamber Beckton of Commerce Also known as Beckton Junction, pioneer George 707 Sheridan in Sheridan. 672-2485 or W. Beck built a flourmill here and established a 800-453-3650. www.sheridanwy.com post office in 1883. The post office was discontin- LF Best Western Sheridan Center ued. There are only a few houses here today. T Sheridan Heritage Center Inc & Trolleyline Restaurant 856 Broadway in Sheridan. 674-2178 T Sheridan Travel and Tourism 612 N Main St in Sheridan. 674-7421 or 877-437-4326. TS King’s Saddlery Museum I-90 & E 5th St in Sheridan. 673-7120 or 184 N Main in Sheridan. 672-2702 888-596-6787. www.sheridanwyoming.org www.bestwestern.com/sheridancenter Section 3 This collection features over 500 custom-made All roads in the West lead to the Best Western T Sheridan Rest Stop & Visitor’s saddles, including (but not limited to) several Sheridan Center. Providing affordable top quality made by famed saddlemaker Don King. One of Center accommodations, the hotel features coffeemakers, I-90 exit 23 in Sheridan the museum’s most treasured item is a Japanese hairdryers, iron/ironing boards, and free high- saddle from the 1600s. There is more craftsman- T Wyoming Game and Fish Dept. speed Internet in every room. Some rooms ship on displays than just saddles. The museum Visitor Center including microwaves, refrigerators, and Business also houses guns, chaps, spurs, wagons, Native Across road from Sheridan Rest Stop Class features. Guests also enjoy indoor and out- American and frontier clothing, and an old horse door heated pools, a Jacuzzi, complimentary fit- View taxidermist displays of native Wyoming drawn hearse. Admission is free. Call for hours. creatures, and find out more about wildlife, hunt- ness center use at the nearby YMCA, onsite ing, and fishing in the West. laundry, and complete business services. T Historic Sheridan Inn Museum Although numerous restaurants are within walk- Fifth St exit off of I-90 at Sheridan. 674-5440 T Wyoming State Bird Farm ing distance, the hotel conveniently serves deli- The Old Sheridan Inn was once the place to be if The Wyoming Game and Fish Department, along cious breakfasts, lunches, and dinners at the you were part of the elite in nothern Wyoming. It with sportsmen and women, rallied to build a onsite Trolleyline Restaurant. As an added bonus, was originally built to accomodate passengers on game bird farm outside of Sheridan, Woming. the hotel is on the Sheridan Trolley route and is the Burlington and Missouri Railroad. Over the George R. Wells was chosen to build and manage just minutes from historic sites, museums, the- years, such famous people have been here as the farm. Pheasant eggs from Oregon and aters, galleries, shopping, and outdoor recreation. , Ernest Hemingway, President Montana were the first to be hatched and released With so many amenities and an ideal location, Herbert Hoover, and even Bob Hope. in 1937. Currently, the Sheridan Farm produces the Best Western Sheridan Center is your destina- Cody used to stay here when he came to town to nearly 13,000 birds each year. Touring the farm is tion for both leisure and business travel! audition acts for his show. It became the first encouraged. For private tours, the bird farm may place in Sheridan to have steam heat, telephones, be contacted directly. and electricity around the turn of the century. H Big Horns The Inn was partially restored in 1965, and then The abundance of Rocky Mountain bighorn refurbished again when the Sheridan Heritage sheep led the Indians to name this mountain Center took responsibility for it. The SHC accepts range after these majestic animals. The Big donations to help further restore the Inn and Horn Mountains are a wildlife viewing paradise. keep it running. Call for hours. Several native Indian tribes competed with each other and later with settlers for access to the T Sheridan County mountains and surrounding river basins. Fulmer Public Library 335 W Alger in Sheridan. 674-8585 Eventually settlers took possession of the land. Due to excessive hunting and introduced dis- Permanent exhibits feature works of regional eases, the once abundant bighorn sheep were artists and Native American artifacts. There are almost eliminated from this area by the turn of also changing monthly exhibits. The Wyoming

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 the century. Today, bighorn sheep are being room features collections including local and reintroduced to the Big Horn Mountains. regional history and U.S. genealogy. Open At high elevations, mountain meadows are Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., interspersed with timber stands which provide Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays, food and summer habitat for elk and mule L Americas Best Value Inn September to May, from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. deer. Willow stands provide forage for moose. 580 E 5th St in Sheridan. 672-9757 or The forests house black bears, snowshoe hares, 800-771-4761. www.americasbestvalueinn.com H Crook’s Campaign, 1876 W Dow and Alger in Sheridan marmots, chipmunks and blue grouse. Located in a quite residential location just off I- At lower elevations, white-tailed deer, moun- 90’s historical central Exit 23, Americas Best Value On this site, the junction of Big and Little Goose

146 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Section 3

Creeks, General , with 15 troops Oliver’s Bar & Grill opened in January 2002 and by the glass, eighteen after dinner selections, and of cavalry, 5 companies of infantry, 1325 men has established itself as a Wyoming hotspot for over 135 wines by the bottle. There is a variety to and 1900 head of transport animals, headquar- incredible meals emphasizing the freshest ingredi- please every palate with labels to satisfy even the tered. Joined by Indian allies, the Crows under ents. Sink your teeth into a tender rib-eye steak most discriminating wine lover. You will also find chiefs Old Crow, Medicine Crow and Plenty purchased from the area’s Legacy Cattle Company, an enjoyable selection of twenty-nine premium

Coups, and Shoshoni under Washakie, he bat- savor Dungeness crab cakes featuring fresh beers and a light edibles menu. Meritage, I tled 2500 Sioux 40 miles northeast, on the seafood from Seattle, or delight in one of the Sheridan’s only wine lounge, offers a comfortable, NCLUDING Rosebud, June 17. Defeated, Crook returned many masterpieces highlighting seasonal ingredi- inspiring, smoke free atmosphere. A perfect place here, occupying these valleys, awaiting rein- ents. A full selection of wines complement each to enjoy your favorite beverage. The beverage forcements which arrived in August. He then meal’s unique taste and texture, and decadent selection is available to enjoy at Meritage or to

united with General Alfred Terry’s army, which desserts add the crowning touch. In addition to enjoy later. Better yet, consider a bottle for that S included remnants of Custer’s 7th Cavalry, to exceptional food, Oliver’s welcomes patrons to its special gift idea. The lounge opens Tuesday HERIDAN campaign in Montana. Buffalo Bill, Calamity classy bar and the adjoining Brundage Street through Saturday at 4 p.m. Jane, Frank Grouard, noted western characters, Gourmet. Visit Oliver’s Bar & Grill today, and were with this expedition. immerse yourself in one of Wyoming’s most exquisite dining experiences! , B UFFALO N ORTHEAST , D AYTON A REA , G ILLETTE , AND N FSJava Moon Coffee Co. & Bakery EWCASTLE F Oliver’s Bar & Grill and Over the Moon Boutique 55 N Main St in Sheridan. 672-2838. F Meritage 176 N Main in Sheridan. 673-5991 [email protected] 123 N Main St in Sheridan. 675-1002 In the heart of historic downtown Sheridan, Java A relaxed, intimate setting complements the rich, Enjoy a refreshing break from the ordinary in the Moon Coffee Co. & Bakery is a local hotspot savory fare of one of Sheridan’s finest restaurants. heart of historic downtown Sheridan. Meritage serving organic coffee drinks and espresso, plus Under the creative genius of Chef Matt Wallop, offers an evolving menu of over thirty-five wines cold beverages. Enjoy their fresh baked pastries, www.ultimatewyoming.com 147 breads, and pizza. Open 6:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., antiques, fun gifts, fantastic jewelry, and logo cloth- Wyoming’s colorful ranching history. Built in the Monday through Friday, and 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. ing. Their T-shirts are worn around the world. A Flemish Revival style in 1913, Trail End was the on Saturdays—Thursday nights and Sundays sea- full line of Aspen Bay candles is also available. This home of John Benjamin Kendrick. A cattle ranch- sonally. Stop in, enjoy a treat, an amazing cup of is truly a unique and entertaining shop. You are er who started out a Texas cowboy, Kendrick coffee, and take advantage of free WiFi. Next guaranteed to enjoy this extraordinary shopping ended up as Governor of Wyoming and a United door is Over the Moon women’s boutique, offer- experience from the courtyard chock-full of yard States Senator. Trail End is the perfect place to ing a great selection of clothing, handbags, and art to the beautiful Ms. Murphy McDougal, the take a moment and just imagine what life might accessories. Featuring Eileen Fisher, Christopher CEO and resident Labrador. You’ll also want to have been like in Wyoming during the early years Blue, Three Dot, Pandora Jewelry, and jewelry take a minute to meet the friendly proprietors, of the 20th century. from local artists. Don’t hesitate to ask, Over the Linda and Willis. Located in historic Downtown From laundry room to ballroom, Trail End Moon is happy to make special orders, alter- Sheridan. Be sure and visit them on the web. offers an intriguing glimpse into life during the ations, or ship out of state. period 1913 to 1933. Exhibits and displays throughout the home’s fully-furnished historic interior provide information on daily life, enter- tainment, interior design and technology. The house and grounds were placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970. A state-held property since 1982, Trail End is currently oper- ated by the State Parks & Historic Sites Division of the Wyoming Department of Parks and Cultural Resources. The house is closed to the public from December 15 through March 31. The site grounds are open year round until sunset. A fee is charged. T Kendrick City Park Near the Kendrick Mansion on Clarendon in M ERA Carroll Realty Co. Sheridan 306 N Main St in Sheridan. 672-8911. www.eracrc.com. [email protected] This is the home where the buffalo roam! The S Accents of Wyoming In 1913, George C. Carroll entered the real estate park’s small game preserve is home to bison and 250 N Main St in Sheridan. 675-2030. elk. An outdoor swimming pool, 90-foot long www.accentsofwyoming.com business and the first Carroll Realty office opened its doors with his son Granville Carroll, operating water slide, band shell, walking path, ice cream Accents of Wyoming is family owned and operat- the company until 1955. The company continued shop, and all-season playground add to the Section 3 ed, located in the heart of beautiful downtown to grow under the leadership of Don Carroll, park’s charm. Sheridan. Their historic 100-year-old building grandson of George Carroll, affiliating with ERA, provides a warm atmosphere for several lines of T Trail End (Electronic Realty Associates) in 1978. The fami- 400 Clarendon Ave in Sheridan. 674-4589. log furniture encompassing three showroom floors ly-owned business developed the reputation for covering 15,000 square feet. They carry Pine, www.trailend.org honesty and reliable service, which it upholds The Building at Trail End Aspen, Cedar, weathered timber, Diamond Willow today. In 1990 the company was sold to long and some Burl woods. Find such extraordinary time employee, Dixie See, who aggressively Located on three and a half acres of groomed accessories as barbwire towel bars and authentic expanded the business, always striving to provide grounds, Trail End is an example of Flemish wagon wheel chandeliers. They also have hand- new and enhanced services. The agency recently Revival architecture, one of the few found in the made western style quilt sets, southwestern style merged with Banner Realty which brought with it western United States. runners, mats, and many other gifts. They offer an a strong ranch and rural real estate department. There are three main floors plus a basement, extensive selection of moose and bear themed Tom Belus and Jane Clark joined Dixie as owners an attic, four balconies and four porches. accents to compliment your lodge, cabin or west- of this full service real estate organization. Materials used on the outside include Kansas ern decor. There is furniture for every room in brick, Indiana limestone, Missouri roofing tile your home. They will ship anywhere in the United and Wyoming granite. Both the mansion and the States, call or email them for a quote. Open 5 Food, Lodging Carriage House (located to the west of the man- Monday through Saturday, 9-5 p.m. sion) were designed by architect Glenn Charles T Sheridan College McAlister of Billings, Montana. S Lucinda’s Artisan Gallery Martinson Gallery Trail End took five years to finish, but not all and Handmade Hammocks 3059 Coffeen Ave in Sheridan.674-6446 that time was spent actually building. Workers 160 N Main St in Sheridan. 674-2595 T Wyoming National Guard were idle for over a year due to the combined Armory Museum effects of labor unrest in the eastern furniture mills 3219 Coffeen in Sheridan. 672-6442 and low prices in the midwestern cattle markets. During the delay in construction, the Kendricks lived in the Carriage House, completed in 1910. Instead of relying on the taste and judgement of strangers, John and Eula Kendrick acted as their own general contractors. They then employed designers and consultants from all over the United States to help them put together the home they envisioned. paneling, cabinets, stairs and other carved pieces were custom made for the house, using the newest automated equipment. All of the woodwork was machine-tooled in Michigan and shipped to Sheridan via railroad.

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Like most large homes of the period, Trail End contained many labor saving devices: inter- S Crazy Woman com, built-in stationary vacuum, laundry chute, Trading Company T Trail End State Historic Site dumbwaiter and elevator. Although never used, 120 N Main St in Sheridan. 672-3939. 400 Clarendon Ave in Sheridan. 674-4589. there was also an emergency fire suppression sys- www.CrazyWomanTradingCo.com. www.trailend.org tem with fire hoses located on each floor. [email protected] From its authentically furnished rooms to its fine- Very few structural changes have been made The Crazy Woman Trading Company specializes in ly manicured lawns, the Trail End State Historic at Trail End. You will see, however, several rooms one-of-a-kind items featuring a variety of art, Site displays an elegantly different aspect of that were redecorated over the years by the fami-

148 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia ly. The alterations have not been removed because they are part of the history of the house. The Kendricks and Trail End Trail End was the home of John Benjamin Kendrick, former Wyoming Governor and United States Senator. Born in Texas in 1857, Kendrick was orphaned at an early age and raised by rela- tives until he went out on his own at age fifteen. In 1879, Kendrick came to for the first time, as a trail rider on a cattle drive. John Kendrick married 17 year old Eula Wulfjen in 1891. For the next 18 years, they lived on the OW Ranch in southeastern Montana. This property was the start of what later became the Kendrick Cattle Company, a 200,000 acre col- lection of cattle ranches in northern Wyoming and southern Montana. While at the OW Ranch, the family’s size dou- bled. Rosa Maye (1897-1979) and Manville (1900-1992) were both born in Sheridan, but lived their early lives at the ranch. Construction began on Trail End in 1908. After it was finished in 1913, the family had only a short time to enjoy their new home. John Kendrick was elected Governor of Wyoming in

1914 and the family moved to Cheyenne. Two Trail End viewed from its spacious park-like grounds. Section 3 years later he was chosen to serve in the United States Senate, an office he held until his death in 1933. During that time, Trail End was used pri- German silver fixtures. porcelain sinks, fireplace, stationary vacuum cleaner motor, vault; furnace room with boilers marily as a summer home. Dining Room: Hand-painted ceiling and wall pan- From 1933 to 1961, Eula Kendrick lived at for steam heating system; coal bin; chauffeur’s els; piano-finish mahogany woodwork; Italian bedroom; storage facilities; public restrooms. Trail End with her son and his family. After her marble fireplace with carved mantle. Vault: Walk-in combination safe. The Grounds The Carriage House Butler’s Pantry: Glass-front cabinets; German silver sink; dumb waiter; laundry chute; icebox. Finished in 1910, it served as the Kendricks home during the construction of mansion. It was Kitchen: “Hospital White” porcelain tile walls, built to house carriages and horses, but never ceramic tile floor, marble trim; original wood/coal used for that purpose. By the time the family was cookstove (later replaced by gas); porcelain sink; ready to move out of their make-shift home, they built-in spice cabinet and storage bins. were driving Cadillacs instead of buggies. It was converted to a theater and is currently the home Back Hallway: Intercom; fusebox; fire hose; of the Sheridan Civic Theater Guild. Phone 672- I annunciator; stairs to basement; stairs to second 9886 for ticket information. NCLUDING and third floor (closed: please use main staircase). The Mandel Cabin was built in 1879 by Second Floor Hallway: Replication of original wall- George Mandel and purchased in 1882 by paper; stained glass windows; hand-painted can- Sheridan founder John Loucks. It served as the

The Carriage House vas ceilings. area’s first post office, store, school, law office, S and bank. In 1976, the cabin was reconstructed HERIDAN Manville’s Bedroom: Navajo-motif wall stenciling; from original logs and moved to Trail End State death, the others moved out and the house stood red fir trim. Historic Site. It is the property of the Colonial empty for seven years. Dames of America. In 1968, when it was about to be torn down, Master Bedroom: Balcony overlooking rose garden; Also found on the grounds are a sunken rose , B Trail End was purchased by the Sheridan County intercom. garden, an English sundial, an apple orchard, a UFFALO Historical Society. They opened the home to the N Rosa Maye’s Bedroom: Hand-tinted wall panels; circular back driveway with original ORTHEAST public as a community museum. Ownership was clothesline/drying yard, a lawn tennis court, and transferred to the State of Wyoming in 1982. custom designed light fixtures. a wide variety of trees and bushes, both native , D On a tour of the house you will find special Maid’s Closet: Hoses and nozzles for built-in sta- and exotic. AYTON features in every room. tionary vacuum system; fusebox. Reprinted from Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites brochure. A Foyer: Hand-painted ceiling panels; dark mission Guest Wing: Three bedrooms, each with private REA , G oak woodwork; custom designed chandelier and bath (closed to public; they’re currently used as H Carneyville (Kleenburn)

wall sconces; elevator. ILLETTE staff offices). 1904-1924 I-90 Exit 25 at Sheridan Visitor’s Center Drawing Room: French silk damask wall coverings; Ballroom: Tiffany-styled chandeliers with verdigris piano-finish mahogany beams and panels; Italian This mine was located 9 miles North of finish; maple dance floor; Georgia pine ceiling , marble fireplace; 1922 portraits of John and Eula beams; horsehair cushions; rotating lead glass Sheridan. Traveling North along Interstate 90, AND Kendrick; peonies painted by Paul de Longpres; windows for ventilation; musician’s loft. as you approach the 2nd exit after leaving hand- made Kurdistan rug. Sheridan, you will turn right. You will notice a N

Staff Quarters: Three bedrooms (each with sink great deal of subsidence in the hillside. This is EWCASTLE Cloak Room: Intercom; coat closets. and closets); pine wood trim; intercom; laundry where the Carneyville mining shafts were. This Library: Quarter-sawn golden oak panels and chute; dumbwaiter; communal bathroom. mine employed 450 miners and had two tip- ple loadouts. In the valley to the right of the bookcases; gothic style chandelier; stained glass Attic: Musician’s loft; storage area; pulley for shafts lay the mining community of windows; 1917 Declaration of War against dumbwaiter (closed to public). Germany; Sharp reproduc- tion over fireplace. Carneyville (Kleenburn). This community had Basement: Contains laundry room with three 150 to 200 houses and approximately 2000 Powder Room: Porcelain double pedestal sink with people residing there. www.ultimatewyoming.com 149 manent home here, also in 1879. John DeWitt, 6 Lodging another early settler, was the original owner of the Blacksmith Shop. It changed hands several Big Horn times before Mr and Mrs Goelet Gallatin bought Pop. 217, Elev. 4,059 it and restored it in 1936. Eventually, it became a At the foot of the mountains of the same name, storehouse for a variety of historic items, and was Big Horn was once just a couple of cabins that completely refurbished in 1976 by the Big Horn sheltered outlaws. Officially founded as a town in Bi-Centennial Committee. In 1990, with the offi- 1878 by O.P. Hanna, this was a much-needed rest cial establishment of the Big Horn Historical stop on the Bozeman Trail. By 1881, it was the Society, the site became an official museum. first real town in Sheridan County. Later, in 1894, it became the home of the first college in the area, T Bonanza the Wyoming College and Normal School, begun Big Horn Basin by the Congregational Missionary Society. The Early travelers lubricated their wagon wheels in school had to close in 1898 when the students the natural oil seeps of this area. Settlers hoped to L Holiday Inn Atrium couldn’t pay the $100 tuition. develop the town into an oil production center, Hotel & Conference Center but the industry never blossomed here. It is now 1809 Sugarland Dr in Sheridan. 672-8931 or T The Bradford Brinton a ghost town. 672-6388. www.holiday-inn.com/sheridanwy Memorial Museum A 2006 Quality Excellence Winner in the #1 S of Big Horn on State Hwy 335. 672-3173 H Bozeman Trail Western Town is an unbeatable award-winning This is ranch country; some of the finest in Blacksmith Shop combination. Details make the difference at the Wyoming and the Rocky Mountain West. It was Big Horn recently renovated Sheridan Holiday Inn. From settled late, in the 1870s and 1880s, but the Near here emigrants traversed the Bozeman well-appointed guest rooms featuring complimen- well-watered, rich grasslands have produced Trail, 1864-68, to Virginia City, Montana gold tary high-speed wireless Internet and the knowl- excellent cattle and horse herds. The Quarter mines. Confronted with hostile Indians unwilling edgeable staff to full-service banquet and Circle A Ranch dates from this period and is typ- to share their hunting grounds, the trail became conference facilities, this hotel specializes in com- ical of the more prosperous ranches of the Big known as the “Bloody Bozeman” and was dis- fort and style. Utilize the onsite fitness center and Horn area. Here Bradford Brinton raised horses continued. personal trainer, visit the massage therapist, enjoy and cattle, entertained distinguished guests, Crossing Little Goose Creek to the south a cup of Starbuck’s Coffee in the Brew Garden, or enjoyed the scenic mountains and plains, and and Jackson Creek to the west, the trail was relax in the indoor pool, sauna, and whirlpool. collected aspects of an older West. When he died later used from 1879-94 by the Patrick Brothers Hungry for a delicious meal? Visit The Greenery in 1936, his sister, Helen Brinton, became the Stage Line from Rock Creek near Laramie, and Scooters Bar & Grill onsite for breakfast, owner of the ranch. She kept it as a summer Wyoimng to Fort Custer on the Big Horn River Section 3 lunch, or Sugarland Mining Company for dinner. home until her death in 1960. in Montana. During your stay, don’t miss the area’s shopping, The house was built in 1892 by two Scotsmen, This building was a blacksmith shop in the year-round outdoor recreation, and historical sites William and Malcolm Moncreiffe, and in 1923 was early 1880s to serve the stage line and ranch- just minutes away. Conveniently located off I-90 purchased by Bradford Brinton, who enlarged it to ers of the valley. halfway between Yellowstone and Mount its present 20 rooms. Bradford, and later Helen, Rushmore, the Sheridan Holiday Inn welcomes tastefully decorated and furnished the house with you to enjoy their real Wyoming hospitality! fine furniture, his collections of western art, Indian crafts, books, and historic documents. Though a native of Illinois, Brinton loved the West and was particularly enamored of the work of western artists. He numbered many now famous artists among his friends, and they bene- fited from his encouragement and patronage. Helen Brinton, wishing to share her brother’s fine collections with future generations, established the Bradford Brinton Memorial Ranch in her will to commemorate western art and culture. The Bradford Brinton Memorial Ranch opened in 1961. It is maintained and administered by The Northern Trust Company of Chicago, Illinois. The Indian conflicts, nature’s wonders, the L Wingate Inn harsh elements, and the often lonely but always 1950 E 5th St in Sheridan. 675-1101 or exciting life of the cowboy inspired the artists of 800-228-1000. www.wingateinnsheridan.com. [email protected] L Days Inn - Sheridan the West. The Brinton collection contains over 1104 E Brundage Ln in Sheridan. 672-2888 or 600 oils, watercolors, and sketches by American The Wingate Inn offers beauty and views along (reservations) 800-329-7466 artists including: Charles M. Russell, Frederic with comfortable accommodations. Every room The Days Inn in Sheridan is close to I-90 at exit 25 Remington, Edward M. Borein, E. W. Gollings, features complimentary high-speed Internet and convenient to local attractions, shopping, and Hans Kleiber, Will James, Frank W. Benson, John access, two-line cordless speakerphone with data- dining. This property offers plenty of amenities at J. Audubon, Joe De Yong, Winold Reiss, and port, voicemail and conference call capabilities, reasonable rates. All rooms are provided with free Frank Tenney Johnson. free local calls and long distance access, local calls, cable TV and HBO, and free wireless Each year a different art exhibit is featured in microwave, refrigerator, coffeemaker, hairdryer, internet. Wake up and start your day right with the reception gallery, which is the only addition safe, iron/ironing board, 27-inch cable TV, their complimentary continental breakfast. Guests made to the ranch. Nintendo 64 games, and more. Their complimen- can choose from smoking or nonsmoking rooms, The memorial is open daily 9:30 a.m. until 5 tary deluxe continental breakfast buffet, catering suites with in-room spas, and fully equipped hand- p.m. May 15th through Labor Day. services, guest laundry, dry cleaning, free week- day newspapers, free fitness center, indoor pool, All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 icapped facilities. There are some larger rooms available with three queen beds. Relax year around T Bozeman Trail Museum whirlpool, and a complimentary 24-hour self- in the indoor pool or hot tub. Main St in Big Horn service business center with PC, printer, fax, and Built in 1879 by the Rock Creek Stage Line, the copier accommodate both business and leisure Blacksmith Shop we now call the Bozeman Trail travelers. They offer affordable luxury convenient- Wyoming Tidbits Museum originally satisfied the needs of travelers ly situated just off I-90. The Wingate Inn wel- on the nearby Bozeman Trail, which connected comes you to experience its friendly retreat-like The geographical center of Wyoming is southeastern Wyoming to Virginia City, Montana. setting, outstanding service, free airport and shut- Fremont, 58 miles northeast of Lander. O.P. Hanna was the first settler to make his per- tle service, and their spectacular views!

150 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia when the post office opened out of his dining Col. Henry B. Carrington of the 18th U.S. 7 Food, Lodging room, the name became the place. Infantry in July, 1866. The Mission of this fort and two other posts Story T Story Fish Hatchery along the Bozeman Trail, Forts Reno and C. F. Pop. 650, Elev. 4,960 Visitor Center Smith, was three-fold: to protect travellers on the This cozy little community was probably named 311R Fish Hatchery Rd 2 mi W of Story. Trail; to prevent intertribal warfare between for , the first man to bring cattle up 683-224 Native Americans in the area; and to draw atten- the Texas Trail, through Wyoming, and into The center is a popular for both locals and visi- tion of Indian forces opposed to Euro-American Montana. Charles P. Story, an early newspaper- tors, receiving more than 14,000 guests annually. westward expansion away from the trans-conti- man in Sheridan, may also have given his name The hatchery stocks nearly 250,000 fish each year nental railroad construction corridor to the south. to the town. Nestled in the pine-covered Bighorn and processes up to four million trout eggs that All three Bozeman Trail forts were stockade for- Mountains, this was where timber was collected will eventually end up in the state’s fish culture tifications, with Port Phil Kearny being the largest. to build . program or are shipped to other states in trade Enclosing seventeen acres, the fort wall was eight for species not raised in Wyoming’s hatcheries. feet high, 1,496 feet in length, and tapered in Managed by the Wyoming Game and Fish width from 600 feet on the north to 240 feet on STORY DAY Department, the hatchery is the oldest operating the south. More than four thousand logs were used station in the state. The original hatchery was in to erect the stockade, while over 606,000 feet of Held the last Saturday in August, this is a day Sheridan but was moved to the current location lumber and 130,000 bricks were produced in full of food, fun, parades, games, music, because of a better, colder water supply. Water is 1867 alone for the extensive building construction. American indian art show, quilt show, garage drawn from South Piney Creek 1.5 miles away. During its two year existence, Fort Phil Kearny sales and flea markets, craft fair, drawings and An underground waterway from the creek moder- was the focal point of a violent war between the vendors. This is the annual fall-festival-type ates the water’s temperature. U.S. Army and the Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapaho celebration. The town of Story is south of The center is open from april 15 through Indians opposed to intrusions into the last great Sheridan off Highway 87. September 15, and the grounds are open to visi- hunting grounds on the Northern Plains. Besides tors year-around. the Fetterman and Wagon Box battles, many smaller fights took place in the area. T Fort Phil Kearny - History By 1868, the Union Pacific Railroad had Section 3 Banner Fort Phil Kearny Pop. 40, Elev. 4,617 reached a point to the west where travellers could Named for a popular Union general killed in bypass the Bozeman Trail route by going to The first postmaster here, a rancher, had a flag as the Civil War, Fort Phil Kearny was established Montana through , thus making the a cattle brand. The locals called it a banner, and at the forks of Big and Little Piney Creeks by Bozeman Trail forts expensive liabilities. In the I NCLUDING S HERIDAN , B UFFALO N ORTHEAST , D AYTON A REA , G ILLETTE , AND N EWCASTLE

Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites Map www.ultimatewyoming.com 151 Treaty of 1868, the United States agreed to close and it was buried eight feet in the southwest the forts and the trail, Fort Phil Kearny was aban- quadrant of the parade ground. It is referred to doned by the Army in early August, 1868, and in numerous historical records. Carrington shows burned soon afterwards by the Cheyenne. its location on his as-built map, and he did a WILDERNESS AREA In 1963, Fort Phil Kearny was designated a design for its construction. Samuel Gibson indi- National Historic Landmark. Today, portions of cates its location on his map of the fort. preserves many sharp the fort site and the Fetterman and Wagon Box Margaret Carrington describes the location as summits and towering sheer rock faces battlefields are included within the Fort Phil “being in the center of one of the squares”. standing above glacier-carved U-shaped val- Kearny State Historic Site boundaries . There are many colorful accounts centered leys. Named for the tallest mountain in around the magazine. Colonel Carrington was —Cloud Peak at Fetterman Fight. constantly frustrated with his lack of munitions 13,167 feet—the Wilderness is blanketed in On December 21, 1866, Sioux, Cheyenne, and and the shortage of ammunition at the post. snow for a large part of the year. Most of the Arapaho warriors engaged a military force com- This became very apparent following the higher ground doesn’t show bare ground manded by Captain William J. Fetterman. Fetterman Fight when men were sent to guard until July. On the east side of Cloud Peak Ordered to rescue a besieged wagon train, the stockade with only five rounds of ammuni- itself, a deeply inset cirque holds the last Fetterman’s men pursued and other tion each. When Carrington left the fort on remaining glacier in this range. Several hun- warriors acting as decoys over Lodge Trail Ridge December 22, 1866 to retrieve the bodies of dred beautiful lakes, many offering excellent where over two thousand Indians waited in Fetterman’s command he left secret instructions trout fishing, cover the landscape and drain ambush The warriors attacked the soldiers, over- which Francis Grummond recounted. ”If, in my into miles of trout streams. The Cloud Peak whelming the separated cavalry and infantry absence, Indians in overwhelming numbers Wilderness is part of the 106 million acre units. All eighty one men in Fetterman’s com- attack, put the women and children in the mag- National Wilderness Preservation System. mand were killed within thirty minutes. Only the azine in a last desperate struggle, destroy all This System of lands provides clean air, water, Battle of the Little Big Horn stands as a worse together, rather than have any captured alive”. and habitat critical for rare and endangered defeat for the and a greater Results of the 1999 archaecological study pro- plants and animals. In wilderness, you can victory for the Plains Indians. vide no evidence of the magazine being in the enjoy challenging recreational activities like southwest quadrant as historical records indicat- hiking, backpacking, climbing, kayaking, ed. At present the magazine’s exact location is canoeing, rafting, horse packing, bird watch- unknown, still one of the many unanswered ing, stargazing, and extraordinary opportuni- Wyoming Tidbits questions about Fort Phil Kearny. ties for solitude. You plan an important role in helping to “secure for the American people of Post Commander’s Quarters: present and future generations the benefits The first polo field in the United States was The Best Structure on the Post built north of SHERIDAN. of an enduring resource of wilderness” as 1867 quartermaster inspections of Fort Phil called for by the Congress of the United Section 3 Kearny indicated the poor condition of many of States through the Wilderness Act of 1964. the buildings on post and that they needed Use Leave No Trace techniques when visiting rebuilding. These included the barracks, officer’s “Portugee” Phillips Ride the Cloud Peak Wilderness to ensure protec- quarters, post headquarters and more. The post tion of this unique area. Phillips is known for his heroic 236 mile ride to commander’s house was a 48 by 32 foot frame Fort Laramie following the Fetterman Fight. Unless otherwise specified, no motorized construction structure, built of fire dried trees, equipment or mechanical transport is Riding in the deep of winter into the midst of a shingled with a 22 by 13 foot attached kitchen, blizzard, he hid during the day and rode only at allowed. This is true for all federal lands man- and brick chimneys. This was probably the best aged as designated wilderness. night as he passed through enemy territory. He structure on post. pushed his horse beyond its limit and sacrificed it The house was built by the regimental band Courtesy: U.S. Forest Service in the process, completing the ride in just four for Colonel Carrington. It initially housed the days, and arriving at Fort Laramie during a ball Colonel, his wife Margaret, their sons Jimmy on Christmas night. and Harry, and butler George. It was then occu- pied in turn by later Post Commanders Henry wearing a ball and chain, wearing a barrel with Wagon Box Fight Wessells and Jonathan Smith. a sign stating your offense, or even flogging. Indian forces attempted to repeat the Fetterman Two archaeological pits have been left open victory in the summer of 1867. On August 2, for viewing. They show the remains of the interi- The Cavalryman’s Quarters: about eight-hundred Sioux attacked wood-cutters or ground structure of the commander’s house. Few and Far Between and soldiers camped at a cutting area five miles It is a false perception that the frontier posts of from Fort Phil Kearny. During initial stages of the The Guard House: Not Just a Jail the American West were garrisoned with large battle, twenty-six soldiers and six civilians took Even though Fort Phil Kearny, like most frontier troops of cavalry. Actually a post’s usual popula- cover inside an oval of wagon boxes used as a posts, had plenty of use for a jail this was not tion was largely infantry with a rew cavalry for stock corral. the main function of the Guardhouse. The 50 support, reconnaissance, escort, or mail delivery. After burning another camp, Sioux warriors by 43 foot, shingled building with a brick chim- Fort Phil Kearny was no exception. It was not launched a series of attacks against the corral. ney, was used primarily for quard-mount. until November 2, 1866 that any cavalry were Armed with breechloading rifles, the soldiers and Guard-mount was the duty of protecting the stationed at the post. Though initially placed in civilians commanded by Captain James Powell post. Soldiers would be detached from their a variety of quarters, they were finally housed in held off the massed warriors until a relief force companies to this building on a repeated a large, new 100 by 25 foot log-panel constuct- arrived from the fort. Three men were killed and schedule for guard duty. From this building an ed barracks with a shingle roof. Nearby was a two wounded inside of the corral, while Indian individual soldier would be assigned to a guard- 250 by 32 foot board and batten stable with casualties were estimated at from five to sixty or stand where he would quard the post on inter- corral, saddler’s shop and a blacksmith. more killed, and five to one hundred twenty vals of 2-hours-on 4-hours-off, for 24 hours. Company C, of the 2nd U.S. Cavalry more wounded. This was not an easy duty, During the harsh Regiment was assigned to Fort Phil Kearny. They Reprinted from Wyoming winter months the interval could drop to as little arrived, armed with single-shot Starr Carbines on Department of Commerce brochure. as 20 minutes to prevent injury or death to the poorly conditioned mounts. Colonel Carrington guard. Francis Grummond recounts a story in replaced their weapons with the band’s Spencer All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 H Fort Phil Kearny My Army Life of Indians sneaking up and shoot- Carbines, but little could be done for the Interpretive Signs ing guards off the stand. One had to be vigilant. mounts. Few cavalry were ever at the Fort. They Fort Phil Kearny For soldiers convicted of serious crimes the were constantly being requisitioned for mail, The Magazine: building did serve as a jail. In August 1866 escort, or other duties by military inspectors trav- Storing Munitions and More records indicate that 24 prisoners were being eling the trail. Unforunately, of those troops avail- All military posts had a magazine for storing held under guard in tents awaiting the comple- able on December 21, 1866, the majority wre munitions. At Fort Phil Kearny the Magazine was tion of this building. Their crime was desertion. killed in the Fetterman Fight, leaving their quar- 16 by 16 feet, with a 11 foot dirt covered ceiling Lessor crimes might be punished by extra duty, ters sorrowfully near empty.

152 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia The Civilians: Living Outside the Post Quartermaster and Commissary Buildings: Before you is a reproduction of the stockade, Because the regulations would not allow non- Supplying the Post guard stand, officer’s gate and artillery bastion as military dependent civilians to reside inside The quartermaster and commissary depart- originally built at Fort Phil Kearny. From this posi- Fort Phil Kearny, several civilian dwellings ments provided the two categories of supplies tion we knew Col. Carrington fired artillery at the existed outside the post stockade on the val- for maintaining military posts. Quartermaster Native Americans who opposed the fort. ley plain below, and in the Quartermaster supplies included items like weapons, clothing, At the time of construction few military forts corral to the south. These homes varied in saddles, blankets, beds, and more. Commissary in the West had stockades. Would it have been size and degree of construction. Some were supplies were mainly food stuffs. At this fort better to train the raw recruits to protect the built as notched cornered log cabins with these items were stored in five or more ware- travelers? Was the time used to build the 2,800 shingled roofs, others were of pole construc- houses varying in size from 24 by 84 feet to 32 feet of stockade wasted? tion with sod roofs, while others were mere by 160 feet. The buildings were of board and Artist conceptual drawing prior to archaeo- dugouts in the northeast slope of the stock- batten construction with shingle roofs and one logical discoveries. ade line. Depressions from these dugouts are building contained a cellar. Records indicate that still visible today. some civilians bunked in the larger warehouse. An Enlisted Man’s Quarters: Civilians provided many services for the mili- Due to theft by soldiers and civilians, quards Better than Nothing tary and travelers of the Bozeman Trail. James were placed at all warehouses. Some of the first structures built at Fort Phil Wheatley and Issac Fisher built a way-station Included in this complex of buildings was Kearny were the enlisted men’s barracks. The and restaurant. Another eatery and the only the Quartermaster’s office. This building was 32 first four were 24 by 84 foot, green log, panel known garden were managed by Mr. and Mrs. by 64 feet, board constructed with a shingle constructed buildings with dirt roofs and floors. Charles Washington. Walter J. Harden and F.J. roof. It straddled the stockade wall and from In 1867 one additional 26 by 100 foot barrack Fairbrast had a small “ranche” and billiard room. here the Quartermaster acted as liaison was built to house the cavalry; kitchens were This building undoubtedly provided after-hours between civilian workers and the military. installed as basements in some of the previous entertainment for the soldiers. One large group Captain Frederick Brown was the first barracks. Each barrack was expected to house of about 40 gold-miners, under the leadership Quartermaster and upon his death Captain an infantry or cavalry company averaging 87 of Robert Bailey, arrived in the fall of 1866. George Dandy took over the duties. men. With the exception of noncommissioned They stayed through the winter working for both officers, who lived in small rooms within the civilian contractors and the military. Occupations Fort Phil Kearny State Historic Site: barracks, all men live in an open bay heated Section 3 included wood cutters and forage gathers for A Guided Tour with cast-iron stoves. The buildings were said to civilian contractors and carpenters or black- Fort Phil Kearny State Historic Site is adminis- be breezy in winter, cool in the summer and by smiths for the military. tered by the Wyoming State Parks and Historic 1867: “fit to be torn down.” Unfortunately, the civlians often got caught Sites Department and supported by the Fort up in the military activities. Wheatley and Fisher Phil Kearny/Bozeman Trail Association. All par- volunteered to go with Captain Fetterman’s ties are committed to the preservation and command on December 21, 1866 and lost interpretation of the many aspects of the site. Wyoming Tidbits The Historic site has three components. Two their lives that day. Remarkably, Mrs. Wheatley Wyoming’s most famous outlaws were of the components, the Getterman and Wagon continued to run the way-station until the fort’s Robert LeRoy Parker (“”) and Box fight sites, are approximately five miles from closure. John “Portugee” Phillips, part of the Harry Longabaugh (“The ”). the fort. These sites offer interpretive trails with Bailey miners, rode for relief following the They were notorious for train robberies. Two signing and help the viewer more fully under- Fetterman fight and later settled in Wyoming. other outlaws were “Persimmon Bill” and “Big stand the dramatic history of Fort Phil Kearny. Nose” George Parrott. Cattle rustling, horse Lessons Learned At the fort site the visitor has several options. stealing and murder were the most serious Archaeology at Fort Phil Kearny The interpretive center offers many exhibits crimes in Wyoming in the late 1800s. Documented archaeology began at Fort Phil describing the fort’s mission, archaeology, the Kearny in 1961 and reoccurred in 1970, 1991- Native Amercans, provides a video overview of I

92, 1999 and 2000. The initial work was done the fort, distributes a site brochure, and offers a NCLUDING by Gene Gallaway who salvaged artifacts during wide variety of books which further explain the The roofs leaked in the rain, and provided the county road construction. In 1970-71 area’s history. The Civilian Conservation Corp homes for snakes, mice, and all sorts of critters. George Frison studied the site, determining cabin interprets the living conditions of an officer The green log building material shrank as it dried, stockade, gate, southeast blockhouse and flag- or enlisted man. Outside the fort-proper inter- leaving gaps in the walls and the dirt floors S

pole locations. Richard Fox searched for the pretive signs explain crucial landmarks surround- turned to mud. All these factors made life in the HERIDAN southwest blockhouse, sutler store, and post ing the fort and outlying structures. barracks and for the enlisted men miserable. commander’’s residence in 1991 and 1992. In On the fort grounds visual and audio interpre- Some men came right from the Civil War, 1999-2000 Tom Larson and Lewis Somers tive signs describe the structures, personalities, armed and clothed with four-year-old equip- studies, using subsurface mapping techniques, and short history of the post. To best view the ment. Others avoiding famine, and persecution , B provided images of the under ground remains fort grounds one should follow a clockwise route. in Europe emigrated, joined the army and UFFALO (see illustrations below) of the upper stockade came here. Their base pay was thirteen dollars N and its diagonal blockhouses. Protecting the Travelers or the Garrison? a month supplemented with soured food for ORTHEAST These studies have provided a great deal The mission of the Fort Phil Kearny garrison was long marches and back breaking work.The , D of insight into understanding the fort site. to guard travelers on the Bozeman Trail, but, it enlisted man was poorly paid, poorly fed, and Many historic features have been confirmed, soon became apparent that the quards would poorly housed. But it was better than nothing, AYTON also need protection. Therefore, on July 13, including locations of the upper stockade, if only slightly. A main gate, blockhouse, gun bastion, sutler 1866, Captain Tenador Ten Eyck began building REA , G store, and commander’s house. Various con- a fort which had been designed by Colonel The Military Stockade: Post Headquarters, struction techniques have been identified, Henry Carrington before they left Fort Stephen Soldier Quarters and More ILLETTE including frame and post/pole, and many per- Kearny. The fort’s 800 by 600 foot long walls Fort Phil Kearny’s design was based on standard sonal artifacts have been recovered. We now were made of 11’ by 12” logs buried three feet military models of the time, with the post’s build- know that the period historic maps are reason- in the ground. There were firing notches cut ings located around a 400 by 400 foot parade , ably accurate, but questions remain. We do along the banquet at every fifth log, and block- grounds. The parade grounds were divided into AND not know the exact location of the magazine, houses or gun-bastions on two opposite corners four 200 by 200 quadrants, with walkways sur- unidentified buildings have shown up on the to provide enfilading fire along the walls. The rounding the parade grounds and dividing the N EWCASTLE ground radar research and historically recorded main gate was located on the east wall, and quadrants. Soldiers were forbidden to walk across ones have not. smaller, five foot wide officer’s gates were origi- the open areas of the parade grounds except The archaeology has provided us a better nally located on each of the other walls. Each when performing official duties such as drill, understanding of Fort Phil Kearny. It has given gate was provided with a locking mechanism. parades or answering the Call to Arms. us some understanding of the reliability of the Five guard stands were located to provide 24 The military stockade was a constantly evolv- historical record, and pointed out new directions hour surveillance of the grounds both inside ing complex of structures during the two years for study. There is still much to be learned. and outside the post. of Fort Phil Kearny’s existence. Many of the orig- www.ultimatewyoming.com 153 inal buildings were improved or replaced over the life of the post. Some examples of these changes were the addition of brick chimneys, and the building of basement kitchens under the existing barracks and those newly construct- ed during 1867-1868, which not only helped save space in the cramped confines of the fort, but also provided some additional warmth for the barracks’ occupants. A List of the Structures 1. Gun Bastion 2. Infantry Barracks 3. Officer Quarters 4. Permanent Hospital 5. Bakery 6. Band Quarters 7. Sutler Store 8. Post Headquaters 9. Guard House 10. Main Gate 11. Warehouses 12. Laundry Quarters 13. Saddle Shop 14. Temporary Hospital 15. Powder Magazine 16. Commander Quarters 17. Flag Pole Bandstand 18. Artillery Park 19. Guard Stand 20. Chapel 21. Civilian Dwelling (Wheatley)

Section 3 22. Cavalry Barracks 23. Cavalry Stables 24. NCO Quarters 25. Guard Stands 26. Sinks 27. Quartermaster Office 28. Civilian Dwellings

The Post Headquarters: Administering Fort Phil Kearny and the Mountain District From this building the commander of the Mountain District of the U.S Army isssued orders to Forts Phil Kearny, C.F. Smith, and the Reno. The Mountain District was made up of the 2nd Battalion 18th Infantry until 1867 when it was reorganized into the 27th Infaantry Regiment. During this building’s existence, the 25 by 50 foot, one inch plank boxs and batten structure was an office for Colonels Henry B. Carrington, Henry Wessells, and John E. Smith. The building was also the commuynication cen- ter for Fort Phil Kearny. Flag signalmen located on a lookout stand attached to building received and sent messages to Pilot Knob and other points. In 1887, Quartermaster Captain George Dandy described the building as “needing torn down”. Yet it continued to function in a number of ways until the closure of the fort. One use was as a school house, in which Chaplain White taught classes for the 10 children of 17 families on post. The Quartermaster Corral:

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Civilian Quarters, Storage, and Shops While not as well built and fortified as the military stockade to the north, the quartermaster’s stock- ade provided protection for the Quartermaster Department’s supplies, draft animals, work shops and civilian employees. Most of the supplies brought to the fort, either by wagons up the Bozeman Trail or by contractors working local resources, came into the quartermaster’s corral.

154 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia By April 1867, the Quartermaster Department was employing 52 civilians, includ- ing mail carriers, guides, carpenters, wagon masters, coal miners, stock herders and others. Maintaining Fort Phil Kearny was expensive; laborers were paid $35-$45 a month, three times the salary of an Army enlisted man, while guides made from $5 to $10 a day, almost as much as an Army colonel. The Fort On July 13, 1866, Colonel Henry B. Carrington, leading four companies of the 18th Infantry, arrived at this site. Carrington, a competent engineer, immediately put his men to work. Through diligent labor they built, by October of that year, the basic units of what became an outstanding example of the complete, stockad- ed, “Indian Wars” military establishment. From here, as you face across this tablet, extends the ground where Fort Phil Kearny once stood. Replacement posts mark the origi- nal corners of the 800’ x 600’ stockade. Beyond, salient points of contiguous cavalry and quartermaster corrals are marked. At the south- west end an animal watering gap jutted into

Little Piney Creek. The Bozeman Trail passed Section 3 roughly parallel to the northeast side. Fort Phil Kearny was usually garrisoned by four to six infantry companies, plus one or Little remains of old . The interpretive signs along the fort’s grounds do much to give the visi- two companies of cavalry. However, so slosely tor an idea of what the original fort was like. did Sioux and Cheyenne warriors, under the tactician Red Cloud, invest the post that these quarters and was home to Captain Powell dur- power. All these weapons were lost in the troops were frequently unable to perform ing his time at the post. Fetterman Fight two weeks later. Sadly, it is also Bozeman Trail convoy duty. Incidents of hostil- The second and primary hospital was built known that the first death at Fort Phil Kearny ity were the daily rule and several of the most in 1867. It was an L—shaped structure incorpo- was the Bandmaster, Master Serveant William famous engagements of “Indian Wars” relate rating panel construction and was 25 by 156 Curry,who died of typhoid and pneumonia, leav- to this fort. feet. The building either replaced or was ing behind a wife and two boys. The military abandoned the fort in August, attached to the bakery which was also located ”As we passed the Fort some distance we 1868, and it was burned by a band of in this corner.The bakery attachment would came to a halt for nearly an hour and a Cheyenne. have provided additional warmth and soothing half…crossing the stream and ascending the aromas for the occupants. Little else is known bluffs beyond. As we lay there the brass band The Flagpole: A Relief to the Traveler abut this building. at the Fort commenced playing. Such sounds in The sight of a 20 by 36 foot American flag fly- Suffering at the post was considerable. such a scene! There was something in the wild, ing atop a 124 foot flagpole came as a great I There was constant skirmishing with the Indians sweet strains that filled and floated through the NCLUDING relief to the traveler on the Bozeman Trail. It ouside the post resulting in numerous battle deep reechoing valley that spoke of home; yet meant the viewer was in sight of safe haven, injuries. In addition to combat wounds the so far distant and in so wild a place that it par- temporarily free from the rigors of the trail, and occupants might be suffering from disease took of the nature of the scenes around it. It safe from Indian attak. The pole which support- including dysentery, scurvy, or tuberculosis was like looking through the ‘glass of time’ into ed the flag was constructed of two pieces in a which, records indicate, were prevalent at the the dim Past…’ S HERIDAN design similar to a ship mast. Made of lodge- fort due to poor diet and sanitation. From the diary of Davis Willson, August 7, pole pine hauled from the wood-cutting areas 1866, near Fort Phil Kearny on nearby Piney Island, the round poles were The Band: For Conflict or Comfort carved into octagons, painted black and the two The 18th Infantry’s 40-piece Regimental Band The Land , B pieces pinned together under the direction of was housed at Fort Phil Kearny in a 24 by 64 The land under view, where the

meet the Rocky Mountains, was once the Red UFFALO civilian builder William Daley. green log, panel constructed, dirt roofed bar- N

The flagpole was raised on October 31, rack. The band provided drummers and buglers man’s land of milk and honey. Then, as now, ORTHEAST 1866, with much fanfare. The first United for drill, ceremony, and combat commands dur- teeming with wildlife, it was most productive— States garrison flag to fly over the land ing the day. In the evening they would gather at thus favorite—hunting ground. But it was also a , D natural route for north-south travel, used from between the North Platte and Yellowstone an octagonal bandstand surrounding the AYTON Rivers was hoisted. The band played on an flagstaff to serenade the post with martial or time immemorial by nomadic men and migra- tory beasts. Lying hundreds of miles beyond A octagonal stand erected at the pole’s base. popular music of the day. On special occasions REA Colonel Carrington addressed the post’s resi- they would orchestrate waltzes at post dances. the 1860 frontier it was treaty-confirmed , G Their duties were truly ones of extremes; Indian Country. dents, and soldiers, dressed in newly issued ILLETTE uniforms. He spoke of their haardships, losses, besides sounding commands or music to Here came a frontiersman, John Bozeman, and tribulations, and he didicated the new fort march by, members might also be called on to pioneering a wagon road which followed buffa- act as messengers, medical orderlies, or combat lo, Indian and trapper trails. His time and energy after nearly four months of occupation, naming , it for a fallen Civil War hero. soldiers. Band members at the fort also built saving short cut led to the booming mining AND Colonel Carrington’s house in addition to serv- fields of western Montana. This interloper was

The Hospital: Any Attempt to Relieve the ing as clerks or supply personnel. followed by others whose habitual frontier cal- N

Suffering… There is more historical information on the lousness easily stifled any scruple over trespass EWCASTLE at Fort Phil Kearny was seldom successful at band at Fort Phil Kearny than some of the other of an Indian passageway. Faint wheel marks either of its two hospitals. The original hospital units. It is known that the band members car- soon became a beaten road known as the was a 24 by 84 foot structure similar to the bar- ried Spencer Carbines even though the men Bozeman Trail. racks in construction. During this hospital’s short seldom went into combat as a complete unit. High plains and mountain Indians, notably service it sadly served as the morgue for Following the December 6, 1866 skirmish Sioux and Cheyenne, watching this transgres- Fetterman’s command. During most of its exis- Colonel Carrington transferred these weapons sion, resented both the physical act and the tence the building functioned as an officer’s to the cavalry, hoping to increase their fire implied contempt of solemn treaty. They made www.ultimatewyoming.com 155 All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Section 3 156 wood, requireda never endingsupplyofwood. PhilKearny,Fort builtofwoodandfueledby Sullivant Ridge structureswerebuilt. which theFort’s from thePinery, weresawedtheboardsfrom plied bylogscarriedinwagontrains returning stockade ashereillustrated.Andhere, assup- sawmill. Itwassetupwithoutthewallsof soldiers hadcarriedintothiswildernessa PhilKearny.the lifebloodofFort The founding As explainedinNo.1ofthisseries,woodwas Site ofasawmill resourceful messengerandcourageoussteed. aid, soughttointerceptthespeedingpair— Indians who,anticipatinganecessarydashfor and blothistracks.Thus heeludedpursuing advantageous stormtohidehismovements night andhidbyday, orusedthebitteryet Officer’s superbthoroughbredandherodeby made thatride.HerodetheCommanding shrouded insnowanddrivenbyanarcticwind, hope foranysuccor. Phillips, John“Portugee” 236 Laramie,thenearest Fort milestostrategic garrison indesperatestraits,thisridespanned annihilation ofFetterman’s forcehadleftthe year 1866. From PhilKearny, hereatFort where 21st andChristmasnightDecember25th inthe rides wasmadebetweenmidnightDecember Phillips John “Portugee” A MonumentHonoring desperate needofreinforcements. how askirmishwasdeveloping,whoin travelers faredtheBozeman Road,whereand what occured—how thewooddetailprogressed, newsofeventsasthey naled totheFort manned lookout.From thispostthesentrysig- Ridge withitswoodroadwasaconstantly Creek Valleys, theBozeman Road,theSullivant Pilot Hill—overlookingPineyandLittle Pilot HillPicketPost Trail’s cutadvantage. short road fartothesouthcanceledBozeman becauseofdevelopingrail- a briefrespite-partly army forprotection.IntheendIndianswon war. calledupontheir The whitetransgressors Fort PhilKearny One of history’s great butlittlecelebrated One ofhistory’sgreat of 1866 toprotecttravelersalongtheBozeman Kearny, 2 milessouth,wasbuiltinthesummer Phil Cheyenne, andArapahoeIndians.Fort overwhelmed byasuperiorforceof Sioux, and 2civiliansweredecoyedintoambush and William J.Fetterman, 2officers,76 enlisted men Along thisridgeonDecember21, 1866, Capt. H PhilKearny.Fort of itsowntreaty, foundjustificationtoa itscitizensinviolation government, supporting toarms.Thus thewhiteman’s tion—a resort a challengeboundtoproduceredman’sreac- disturbing intrusion.Which, inthiscase,madeit any roaditwasanenvironmentandecology Land, awhiteman’srouteofcommerce.Like …so ran,throughtreatyguaranteedIndian Its ApproachfromtheSouth The Bozeman Trail… Battlefield NationalCemetery. were removedforre-intermentintheCuster 24, 1896 allbodiesnotpreviouslyexhumed casualties oflesscelebratedincidents.OnJune Wagon Boxdefense;andafew the masterful tims ofFetterman’s impetuosity;threeherosof prevented thatidea.Hererestedeighty-onevic- remained analmostvacantplace.Butwarfare tence, PhilKearny’s cemeterymighthave exis- Because ofahealthyclimateplusshort Cemetery Site survivors toreturn. command ofeighty-onemen.There wereno in violationofexplicitorders,Fetterman ledhis route toMontana.There, December21, 1866, Phil Kearny, climbedtheBozeman Trail onits beyond Prairie Dog)Creek.Upthisdivide,north Piney CreekswiththedrainageofPeno (now Lodge Trail Ridgedividedthedrainagesofboth Lodge Trail Ridge foranambush. ing opportunity permitting observationofhostilesandprevent- route followedbythecrestofSullivantRidge- four mileswestagainstthemountains.The Sioux andCheyenne.SourcewasthePinery A supplyobtaineddespitehostileactivityby Old U.S.Hwy87 NofI-90Exit44 Fetterman Massacre Ultimate Wyoming AtlasandTravel Encyclopedia monument. There werenosurvivors. was madebehindthelargebouldersat were engagedinapitchedbattle.The finalstand and ledhiscommandtothisridge,wherethey Indians beyondLodgeTrail Ridge.Hedisobeyed Fetterman wasorderednottopursuethe a wagontrainthatwasunderattack,Capt. LaramieTreatyFort of1851. Sentouttorelieve whichhadbeenassignedthembythe grounds such encroachmentintotheirlasthunting Trail. The Indaianswerebentonpreventing ing hiscommandtoitsfinalengagement. the consequences,hechargedblindlyon,lead- talizing targetfortheattack.withlittlethoughtof the ridgeandhiscomandstretchedout—atan- war” helearnedintheCivilWar. Hedescended Indians didtofightaccordingthe“rulesof concealment. Hepaidnoheedtothefactthat laced withpockets,ravinesandridgesidealfo engaged thewarriors. for disobeyingordersunlesshesuccessfully man. Fetterman knewhewouldbepunished had nohopeofcatchingthefleetIndianhorse- to thequestions. “None” appearstobeamostcharitableanswer make? What thoughtsinfluencedhisdecision? suit? What “estimateofthesituation”didhe tions ofhistorians.Why didhecontinuepur- command hascreatedaproblemforgenera- orders andtheresultingannihilationofhis The brashyoungCaptain’sdecisiontodisobey return andhisdecisionremainsunexplained. successful mission. return wasallthatnecessarytocompletea its attackerstothelimitprescribedinorders.His Fetterman relievedthewoodtrainandchased H observation point on LodgeTrail Ridgebefore Tenodor Ten Eyckand76 menreachedan Fetterman’s menmightbe alive. Captain sent whiletherewasstillhopethat someof Kearny was torecover the dead.The firstparty Two Phil fromFort wentforth separateparties H Fetterman’s entirecommandwassealed. impossible andwithinanhour, thefateof ambush whilehehotlypressedhispusuit. turned aboutonlytomeetotherswholaidin met anoverwhelmingforceofIndians.He battle. the bodiesoftheircomradesonfield who found made byreliefandrecoveryparties tary. The bestreconstructionofeventswas ment werelongincomingandprovedfragmen- over theridge. pursuit. Buttheyonlypaused,thenvanished boundary thatwassupposedtobethelimitof Fetterman’s menpauseonthesummit—the the crestofLodgeTrail ridge.They saw pursue theattackingIndianswhoretreatedover Fetterman’s commandadvancetothereliefand the woodtrainwasattacked.They watched when Pickets onPilotHillhadsignalledthefort H He gavelittleregardtothebrokenterrain, The mixedcommandofinfantryandcavalry But hecontinuedthechase.Hedidnot Old U.S.Hwy87 NofI-90Exit44 The Fateful Decision Old U.S.Hwy87 NofI-90Exit44 oftheDead Recovery Retreat alongtheBozeman Roadwas Fetterman, chasingdecoysbeondtheridge, Indian accountsofthesubsequentengage- Old U.S.Hwy87 NofI-90Exit44 Retreat-Defeat-Death PursuitTrapFarthest Sprung the Indians left the battleground. Though seen states”there were no survivors,” but it obviously control of the tribes. It was hoped that the and challenged by the exuberant victors, he refers only to U.S. military casualties since Indians would adopt Christian ways, become refused to commit his command against such approximately 1,500 Sioux and Cheyenne did farmers and cease hostilities on the frontier overwhelming odds. When the Indians with- in fact survive. For six years, until gold was discovered in drew, he ventured down the slope and recov- Today, this monument still honors the battle- the in 1874, an uneasy peace exist- ered 49 bodies found in one group where the field dead, but it should be remembered that ed in the . Soon thereafter, fight climaxed. members of two cultures died here, both fight- the Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapaho were at war Next morning Colonel Carrington led a sec- ing for their nations. on the Little Big Horn River. ond party which found the remaining 32 bod- By 1866, twenty years of confrontation had ies scattered along more than a mile of the occurred on the Northern Plains. European H The Fetterman Fight… Bozeman Road. Most of the bodies had been Americans pressured all the tribes in the quest December 21, 1866 stripped, scalped and mutilated. The corpses of mineral wealth and settlement lands. At Fetterman Massacre Memorial near Banner of captains Fetterman and Brown had powder The Fort Laramie Treaty of 1851 attempted During the fall of 1866, Red Cloud gathered burns at their temples suggesting suicide. to curtail these confrontations. It established ter- Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapaho warriors. As the Three pools of blood—within ten feet of the ritorial boundaries for man of the Plains Indians Indians strength grew to the north on the body of Lieutenant George Grummond—evi- and the United States Government was allowed Tongue River, they increased their raids on the dence of Indian casualties—gave moot testimo- to build roads and forts. All signators were Bozeman Trail forts. Colonel Henry B. Carrington ny to the frenzied fighting. James S. Wheatley allowed to cross on another’s territory unmo- received orders from the Department and Isaac Fisher, two civilian volunteers, had lested and unhindered. But the diminishing buf- Commander to be more aggressive and carry wanted to test their new Henry repeating rifles. falo herds and discoveries of gold led to out “punitive strikes against the raiding Indians.” The hundred or more expended cartridges continuing and escalating confrontation. Carrington requested more troops, better arms near their mutilated bodies showed how dear- The discovery of gold in southwest and more ammunition. Captain William J. ly they sold their lives. Montana led to the establishment of the Fetterman, a recent arrival to the fort, said that The recovery parties found more than 60 Bozeman Trail in 1863. By the fall of 1865 he could ride through the Sioux nation with 80 separate pools of blood, suggesting removed numerous fights with the European Americans men. The stage was set for the Fetterman Fight. Indian casualties. Indian spokesmen later had allied the Sioux, Cheyenne and Arapaho.

December 21, 1866 was a clear day, with Section 3 acknowledged the loss of thirteen warriors. The Crow Indians supported the military against snow drifted on the north slopes of the hills these tribes. The high cost of military cam- and ridges from earlier storms. That morning paigns and the need for new roads with safe Captain Fetterman requested command of a travel impressed upon the United States force to relieve a wood train under attack by Government the need for new negotiations Indians. His command included Lieutenant with the Northern Plains Indians. These negoti- George Grummond, Captain Frederick Brown, ations began at Fort Laramie in June, 1866. 49 infantry, 27 cavalry and civilians James While the intent of the Treaty of 1866 was Wheatley and Issac Fisher, totaling 81 men. to allow the construction of forts and roads in Earlier in the day 800 to1,200 Sioux, exchange for bi-annual annuities, government Cheyenne and Arapaho warriors had arrived in officials failed to recognize the complexity of the Peno Creek Valley. Some were sent to tribal politics. Some Indian leaders did sign the attack the wood train, others to decoy the treaty and government officials assumed they Army’s relief party and the rest took up posi- had a treaty with all members of the tribes. tions for the planned ambush. The decoys lured When Carrington’s command arrived under Fetterman’s command over Lodge Trail Ridge. orders to establish three forts on the Bozeman As the soldiers approached Peno Creek, the Trail, Red Cloud and other Indian leaders walked ambush was sprung. In the ensuing battle, as out of the talks declaring that war would occur if I

the troops retreated south toward Lodge Trail NCLUDING the trail was used and forts constructed. Ridge, they were surrounded and defeated. Carrington followed orders regarrisoning Fort In approximately one hour the battle was Reno and established Forts Phil Kearny and C.F. over. Captain Tenodor Ten Eyck’s relief column Smith. The Indian leaders who refused to sign arrived to find the bodies of Fetterman’s com- the treaty prepared for war. mand in three sparate groups along what is S With the arrival of reinforcements, supplies now known as Massacre Hill. Fort Phil Kearny HERIDAN and two successive commanders, Fort Phil had lost 81 men. Indian oral history indicates Keanry was reorganized and and the training of that their casualties were 20 or more. the soldiers increased. Skirmishes between the soldiers and the Indians continued through the H The Aftermath: , B

spring and summer of 1867. Better arms and UFFALO Two Views of Victory N

ammunition resulted in successful defenses at ORTHEAST At Fetterman Massacre Memorial near Banner H Fetterman Monument the Hay Field Fight and Wagon Box Fight on At Fetterman Massacre Memorial near Banner

August 1 and 2. By the end of the fight the Indians, through the , D On July 3, 1908, Henry B. Carrington, Frances News of the Fetterman Fight intensified the heroics of fellow warriors, managed to remove AYTON Grummond Carrigton and veterans of the Fort debate in the East between U.S. citizens with all but one or two of their dead and wounded Phil Kearny garrison attended a memorial cere- differing philosophies about the Indians. Some from the battlefield. These were taken to a A REA mony to dedicate this monument. Colonel people avocated annihilation of the Indian spring near the present day Fish Hatchery for , G Carrington and others recounted the events sur- nations while others advocated peaceful resolu- cleansing and treatment. Estimates very greatly rounding the battle of December 21, 1866, and tion of hostilities on the Western Plains. as to the number of Indian caualties. Traditional ILLETTE their experiences at the fort. The nation had survived four years of Civil Indian oral history places the number as low as To honor the battlefield dead, the monu- War but the toll had been tremendous. Fighting six and as high as 100. Captain Powell estimat- ment had been constrcted during the previous ed the dead at 60 and wounded at 120. As , Indians on the frontier was expensive and AND two years by local stonemasons. There are unpopular to those who wanted peace. Conflict the Indians withdrew from the field, so did the however, several inaccurcies in the legend and soldiers. Following their rescue by Major

in the West had created severe equipment and N some of language reflects the racial feeling of logstics problems for the post-war military. Smith’s column the surgeon treated the EWCASTLE the times. Historical records show that only two In 1867, the military established Fort wouned and gave each survivor a drink of civilians were killed, not the four mentioned in Fetterman, but the Treaty of 1868 closed the whiskey to settle their nerves. The military legend. Current scholars also question whether Bozeman Trail and Forts Phil Kearny, Reno and casualties consisted of three dead in the corral, Red Cloud led or was even at the battle. Native C.F. Smith. The treaty established reservations four dead at the side camp, and two wounded Amercan histories do not mention his presence, for the Sioux much like those set up for in the corral.These caualties and the day long but do mention numerous other Sioux and Cheyenne and Arapaho in 1866. The Interior fight would cause the military to rethink their Cheyenne leaders. Finally, the plaque Department became responsible for care and position at the pineries. www.ultimatewyoming.com 157 Although the military felt they had won the two other officers, 76 enlisted men and two Crazy Horse and Hump led a small number fight, which gave a great boost to the morale of civilians. the soldiers in the party were from four of warriors across the hills to the west in a soldiers on the western plains, they knew the companies of the 18th Infantry and one com- decoy attack on the Little Piney Camp. Here existing corral had its weaknesses. Immediately pany of the 2nd Cavalry. three soldiers are killed and the remaining following the fight Lieutenant Alexander Wishart The Indians had broken off the attack by wood cutters are chased into the mountains. created a new position south and west of the the time the relief party was under way but This attack is followed by attacks on the wood Wagon Box Fight corral. The new corral was Fetterman pursued them to the crest of train at the upper pinery, and the mule herd. placed further out in open, giving a better field Lodge Trail Ridge—so far keeping within range Soldiers, drivers and wood cutters from the of fire, and was constructed in a stronger defen- of his orders. wood train and pinery escape into the moun- sive position. A trench was dug around the exte- tains, but the mule herd is captured. Powell rior, and the wagon boxes were placed upon H Wagon Box Fight leads an attack to rescue the herders, as outlying the excavated dirt, creating a formidable barrier Interpretive Signs sentries and hunters from the fort make for the to any attack. A new camp site was located to At Wagon Box Memorial site safety of the corral. By nine o’clock 26 soldiers south of this corral. 5 mi NW of Fort Phil Kearny and six civilians are surrounded in the corral fac- To the Indians the Wagon Box fight was also Wagon Box Monument ing, by Powell’s estimate, 800 to 1000 warriors. a victory. They had succeeded in destroying the Before you stands a monument dedicated to Indian spectators, including leaders, women, side camp, burned several wagons, captured a the courage and bravery of the defenders in the and children watch from the surrounding hills, large mule herd and killed or wounded several Wagon Box fight of August 2, 1936. This monu- as mounted warriors make the first attack, of the enemy. Their goal of harassing the forts ment was built in 1936 by the Civilian charging the corral from the Southwest. The had been fulfilled. One lesson learned was that Conservation Corps. The legend was written by Indians expect a volley from the soldiers who the soldiers had new weapons and that if the local historians and although it was accurate with will then pause to reload, and the warriors will Indians expected to win they would need mod- the information available at the time,it is now then overrun the corral. But the pause never ern guns. In November 1867, Lieutenant known to contain several discrepancies. Also, it occurs as the soldiers quickly reload their new Shurley’s command was attacked on Big Goose makes no mention of the Lakota warriors who rifles. Discouraged by the continuous fire the Creek and after a day long fight, the Indians died on this field in defense of their cullture. Indians withdraw. During the lull, the soldiers were driven off. It is believed that the Indian It is not known if Red Cloud was the actual pass ammunition about the corral, holding it in objective was to capture a mountain howitzer leader during this battle and the number of their caps and the Indians prepare to charge on and weapons. This ongoing fighting kept the Lakota warriors who were involved in the foot from behind the ridge to the north. Bozeman Trail closed to all but military traffic, Wagon Box Fight is now estimated to be 1,000 The second attack is made from behind the and the maintenance of the forts became a to 1500. Native American casualty estimates, ridge to the north by warriors on foot while great expense for the military. Through continu- based on oral histories, vary from six to sixty. mounted warriors demonstrate to the south and ous skirmishing and the husbanding of his Two Lakota individuals mentioned in both snipers located along the rim fire into the corral. resources, Red Cloud was winning his war. The white and Indian accounts of the battle should During this attack all the casualties in the Section 3 war continued into the summer of 1868 with be noted: one is Red Cloud’s nephew whose corral occur. But again the soldier’s firepower raids at all three forts along the Bozeman Trail name is unknown; the other is a Miniconjou turns the Indians back. A third attack comes and at the new located on the Sioux name Lipala. Both were killed during the from the northeast. The soldiers hear loud . In 1868 treaty negotiators battle, but they displayed unusual courage and chanting as Indians burst from cover singing were again ready to discuss the Bozeman Trail. leadership in their numerous attempts to defeat their war song and surge to within a few yards The results of the negotiations would make the corral defenders. of the corral before being turned back. The “Red Cloud’s War” one of the few, though tem- Indians again retreat to the protection of the porary, victories by American Indians against the Wagon Box Fight, August 2, 1867 rim, sniping at the corral as others attempt to western expansion of the United States. This monument is erected to perpetrate the retrieve the dead and wounded. The final attack memory of one of the famous battles of history. comes on horse back from the southeast. H The Interpretive Trail It is dedicated to the courage and bravery of By now it is early afternoon and the fight At Fetterman Massacre Memorial near Banner twenty-eight soldiers in Comany C.27th United has not gone unnoticed at the fort. Major For an in-depth understanding of the Fetterman States Infantry, and four civilians who held their Benjamin Smith leaves the fort with a relief col- Fight, you are invited to walk the interpretive improvised fort made of fourteen ordinary umn of 102 men and a mountain howitzer. As trail. Approximately one mile in length, it con- wagon-boxes, against 3000 Sioux warriors, the column nears the corral, they fire on Indian sists of two separate but overlapping trails tra- under the leadership of Red cloud for a period spectators viewing from a high knob east of the versing more than half of the actual battlefield. of six or seven hours under continuous fire. the corral. With the arrival of reinforcements for the The first trail provides specific information number of indians killed has been variously soldiers, the Indians decide to withdraw and the about the battle and its participants and is estimated from three hundred to eleven hun- Wagon Box Fight ends. accessible for the physically impaired. The sec- dred. The following participated in this engage- ond trail requires you to use your imagination, ment: Capt. Jas. Powell, 1st Sgt. John M. Wood Cutting: A Hazardous Harvest to visualize the battlefield as it was in 1866 Hoover, 1st Sgt. John H. Mcquiery, 1st Lt. John Though construction of Fort Phil Kearny was from the Indian and soldier perspectives, at C. Jenness, corp. Max Littman, Corp. Francis complete by August of 1867, the need of wood positions occupied during the battle. Roberts, Privates: Wm. Baker, Ashton Barton, for burning and alterations continued. Colonel Archaeological studies have been conducted wm. Black Nolan, Chas. Brooks, Alexander John E. Smith, the post commander, located on the battlefield. Since artifact collecting began Brown, Dennis Brown, John Buzzard, Frederick wood cutting camps on Big and Little Piney soon after the fighting, few artifacts remain, but Clause, John Condon, Thomas Doyle, V. Creeks five miles west of the fort. A company of you are reminded that their removal is UNLAW- Deming, John Grady, John M. Garreett, Henry infantry armed with the 50-70 Allin Conversion FUL. Please report any findings to the vistor Gross, Samuel Gibson, Henry Haggerty, Mark Rifle (a converted Springfield musket, which center immediately. Haller, Phillip C. Jones, Freeland Phillips, John L. was breach-loading and fired metal cased car- Somers, Chas. A. Stevens, Julius Strache, 4 tridges) were assigned to protect the cutters H Attack-Relief-Decoy-Pursuit unknown civilians. and wood train. Their duties were rotated with Old U.S. Hwy 87 N of I-90 Exit 44 other companies on a monthly basis. The sol- By December, 1866, For Phil Kearny was in the Battle, August 2, 1867 diers operated out of a camp located at a corral final phases of construction. Logs for the stock- On August 2, 1867, 51 men of Company C, built by the wood contractors to hold the mules at night. The corral was made of 14 wagon All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 aded post were hauled by wood train from the 27th Infantry under the command of Captain pinery six miles west of the fort. James Powell and Lieutenant John Jenness are boxes, removed from the running gears, and On december 21, a heavily escorted wood assigned to the wood cutting detail. Fourteen of placed in an oval measuring 30’ by 70’. It was train left for the pinery. It came under Indian these men escort a wood train toward the fort. located on a plateau between Big and Little attack about three miles to the west. When Another 13 are protecting wood cutters; nine at Piney Creeks, at the junction of the wood roads, pickets on Pilot Hill signaled the train was being the upper pinery and four at the Little Piney and visible from Pilot Knob, a lookout point attacked, Colonel Henry B. Carrington ordered Camp. While the soldiers at the corral prepared near the fort. One box at the west end of the out a relief party and reluctantly put Captain breakfast, the herders turned out the mules, corral and another on the south side were cov- William J. Fetterman in command. It included and sentries took up position, the battle begins. ered to protect the supplies for the soldiers and

158 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia rode in close to fire arrows or guns, and then zigzagged away from the soldiers’ rifles. During the first attack from the south, Hairy Hand, a Miniconjou, rode straight at the corral to count coup. Hit by a soldier’s bullet, he laid out in the open until a young warrior named White Bull ran in and dragged him to safety. The mounted charge failed, and the war leaders Crazy Horse of the Ogalalas and Hump of the Miniconjous organized the warriors for an assault on foot. As the foot charge moved toward the corral, the Ogalala Only Man rushed ahead, almost reach- ing the wagon boxes before the bullets killed A Fight to Survive him. The attack stalled, and some warriors con- Drawing by Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites cealed themselves in the brush and started fir- ing into the corral with guns captured during the battle of One Hundred in the Hands. These civilains. An additional supply wagon was locat- fight. On two occasions Privates Sam Gibson snipers inflicted most of the casualties suffered ed ten feet to the west. The soldiers and civi- and John Grady ventured from the corral, once by the soldiers. lains slept in tents ouside of the corral. to knock down tents which were obscuring the During a lull before the next attack, one of field of fire, and a second time to retrieve water the bravest acts of the day took place. Jipala, a To Save The Powder River Country for the thirsting defenders. Indian fire arrows tall, impressive Miniconjou, walked toward the In July, 1867, many Lakotas of the Ogalala, ignited the dry hay and manure, which, com- corral, carrying a shield, lance and bow. Singing Miniconjou and Sans Arc tribes gathered with bined with the hot August sun and gun powder his death song, he ran forward, jumping in the the along the Rosebud Valley to smoke, made conditions in the corral miserable. air and firing arrows at the corral. Finally, the sol- participate in the sacred Sun Dance ceremony. In the corral, in addition to death of Lieutenant diers bullets found him, and he lay dead before After fulfilling the religious duties, the headmen Jenness, Privates Haggerty and Doyle were the corral. Both warriors and soldiers talked of Section 3 and fighting chiefs turned their attention once killed, and two others wounded. his bravery for many years to come. more to warfare against the Bozman Trail Forts. Two more Miniconjous, Muskrat Stands of One year of fighting had failed to drive the 1. Pvt. Gibson (drawing based on his descriptions) His Lodge and Packs His Leg, died in foot soldiers from the Powder River country. Small 2. Pvt. Gradey charges. During the final attack, the Lakota groups of warriors struck during the spring and Young Duck was shot dead leading the assault, summer, but there had been no victory to equal 3. Sgt. Hoover and three of his people wounded attempting to the winter battle known as “One Hundred in 4. Captain Powell recover his body. the Hands,” which had annihilated Fetterman’s Once more, the warriors attempted a mount- soldiers near Fort Phil Kearny. Now, with almost 5. Max Littman (behind a barrel of beans, ed charge, but the soldiers’ guns kept up a fierce one thousand fighting men concentrated on the he provided cover fire as Gibson retreated fire. The assault ended before reaching the cor- Rosebud, the Indian leaders planned another to the corral) ral, but not before Sun’s Road of the Cheyennes great battle. Disagreement over which fort to 6. Private Condon (behind a barrel of salt) was killed. His death was the last of the day. attack led to a split in the Indian forces. Most of The boom of Smith’s howitzer signaled the the Cheyennes would go to attack Fort C.F. 7. Lieut. Jenness killed end of fighting. As the Lakota and Cheyennes Smith, while the Lakota and some Cheyenne 8. and 9 Bullwackers (6 civilians were in fight) left the battlefield, they paused near local chose Fort Phil Kearny. springs to care for their wounded and dead Led by Crazy Horse, Hump, Thunderhawk, 10. Private Doyle killed before moving north to their camps. I

Ice and other war leaders, hundreds of Lakota NCLUDING and Cheyenne warriors rode to their destiny in 11. Private Haggerty killed Red Cloud’s Victory battle. Traveling with them were Red Cloud, 12. Somers wounded in wagon box By 1868 the Union Pacific Rail Road had been Flying By, other older headmen, and many completed through southern Wyoming and woman and children. All hoped fo a great victo- 13. Grain stored and used as protection in corral northern Utah and a new and shorter road ran ry that would save and protect the land. S 14. Ammunition placed about corral, men would north to the southwestern Montana gold fields. HERIDAN retreive it in their hats to their firing position. The Bozeman Trail became obsolete. The U.S. A Fight To Survive (See diagram) Government once again sought negotiations Inside the corral the small body of soldiers 15. A horse and mule were tied in the corral, with the Lakota and Cheyenne, hoping for a expected defeat and the same fate as they died of wounds suffered during the fight solution to the fighting along the trail. Red Cloud , B Fetterman’s command. As they took up posi- refused to talk until the forts and the trail were 16. Using fire arrows, Indians set fire to manure UFFALO tions of their choosing, between, behind, or abandoned, but others did negotiate and a N inside the wagon boxes, the men prepared for and straw within the corral, causing discomfort ORTHEAST for the defenders treaty was settled upon. The Fort Laramie Treaty the worst. Some removed their shoe laces so of 1868 stipulated that in exchange for the mili- , D that the string could be used to attach their toe 17. Civilian and soldier tents tary abandoning the forts along and the use of to the rifle trigger when the end was near. the Bozeman Trail, the Lakota would accept for AYTON Others stockpiled ammunition and weapons. 18. Coffee pots containing the only water available during the fight their reservation the western half of South A While the Allin Conversion was the most Dakota from the to the Black Hills. REA , G prominent weapon of the fight, Spencer car- 19. Supply Wagon The Powder River country was to remain unced- bines and an assortment of pistols were also ed Indian land, open for hunting by all tribes. ILLETTE used. Some accounts indicate that only the Valor in Attack The United States Government signed this treaty marksmen fired while others reloaded the rifles The Indian leaders had hoped the soldiers as did several bands of Lakota, but it was not for them. During the fight Powell gave few would pursue a small decoy party of warriors until the forts were actually abandoned that Red , orders other than an initial command of “shoot led by Hump into an ambush, but the soldiers Cloud finally signed in October of 1868. For the AND to kill.” Jenness took up a position in the cov- refused to follow, and the last pickets retreated Lakota and Cheyenne, even though greater con- ered box with four civilians. It is reportedly here safely into the corral after wounding the Ogalala flicts lay in the years ahead, the Powder River N EWCASTLE that after being told to keep down, Jenness warrior Paints Yellow. The side camp was taken Country had been saved. replied “I know how to fight Indians” and and some soldiers killed, but now the only promptly fell dead of a head wound. option for quick success was to launch massed Continuing Controversies Acts of valor were quite common in the cor- attacks at the corral, and hope to overrun the Over the years a controversy has arisen about ral. A private named Max Littman stepped from soldiers’ improvised wagon box fortress. the exact location of the Wagon Box Corral, the safety of the corral to give covering fire for Soon, mounted warriors circled around the Indian casualties, and the length of the battle. the retreating sentries at the beginning of the corral. Using their horses as shields, they quickly The most disputed fact is the location of the www.ultimatewyoming.com 159 corral. In the early 1900’s area residents alligator rising from the waters to a Loch Ness- branches, stems, and roots of trees and other brought survivors of the fight, both Indian and type creature that seized an Indian papoose and plants that grew in the swamps. The peat beds white, to the area in hopes of pinpointing the disappeared into the murky depths. probably were buried when a nearby river flood- exact location of the corral. Unfortunately, the When imagination runs high, “Smetty” is ed, covering the area with sand and mud. After survivors were not at the site at the same said to dwell in the so-called bottomless lake’s millions of years under thousands of feet of sedi- time and did not agree on the location. One subterranean caverns sometimes speculated to ment, the peat gradually changed to coal. (One site chosen is the location laid out near where be a faraway outlet from the Pacific Ocean. coal seam near Buffalo, the Healey, is about 200 you are standing. The other location is a brass Edward Gillette, author of “Locating the Iron feet thick in places.) marker several hundred yards to the south- Trail” wrote a book in 1925 chronicling the tales As erosion and uplifting began to change the east. There has been much study in an and observations surrounding “Smetty.” Visit earth’s surface, many coal seams were exposed to attempt to resolve this debate, including cor- Lake Desmet and judge for yourself, but don’t air and caught fire. As the coal seams burned respondence with early residents, aerial pho- forget to take your fishing pole and bait so you back into the hillsides, the intense heat changes tography, and archaeological surverys. The don’t miss out on some great fishing! the normally soft brown and gray rocks to a strongest evidence come from archaeology hard red material—scoria. At station 2 you will done over several years, which indicates that 9 Food, Lodging learn about plants that helped to form the coal. the laid out corral may be close to correct. The ecosystem of the swampy plain played a But if the actual participants could not agree Buffalo significant part in the development of coal, an on a location, then the best and most accu- Pop. 3,900, Elev. 4,645 important energy resource today. rate description of the location of the corral is Article courtesy of Bureau of Land Management. Founded in 1879 by homesteaders, cattle to say that it was placed somewhere atop the ranchers, and miners, Buffalo was not named plateau, between Big and Little Piney Creeks. for the animal, but for Buffalo, New York, As to the other controversies, Indian casualties hometown of one early settler, Alvin J. McCray. can probably be estimated at between six and WHAT MAKES By 1883, there were a dozen saloons in town, sixty and the time of the fight from 8:00 A.M. but no churches. While an old buffalo trail did THE BIG HORNS to 1:00 P.M. As with all historical events once run down Main Street, Buffalo’s streets are research will continue and new facts will SO SPECIAL? most famous for being the only place in the US come to the surface. where you can make a legal U-turn on a high- way bridge, right in the middle of town. As the No region in Wyoming is provided with a F Kimmeri’s Restaurant more diverse landscape; from lush grass- 6 N Piney Rd in Story. 683-3332 Johnson County Seat, Buffalo also claims the distinction of having hosted the oldest county lands to alpine meadows, and rugged 8 Food, Lodging fair in the state in 1887. mountain tops to canyonlands and desert. Gorgeous canyon country is a hallmark T Dry Creek Petrified Tree Forest Section 3 of the forest. Shell, Tensleep and Crazy T DeSmet Lake I-90 E from Buffalo to the Red Hills exit, At I-90 Exit 51 Woman Canyons are among those that can drive N off exit for 7 mi to the Petrified Tree The lake was named for Father Pierre DeSmet, a Area access road be enjoyed from your car window. Others, Jesuit missionary back in the early 1800s. It is like Tongue and Devil’s Canyon are better The Dry Creek Petrified Tree Environmental viewed on foot. now known for its terrific fishing opportunities, Education Area (EEA), set aside as such in 1978, Geology is noteworthy in the Big Horns. boating and skiing, and swimming. There are is located about 9 miles east of Buffalo, Watch for highway signs that trace the geo- many facilities at the lake including ramps, docks, Wyoming. A parking area, picnic table, and campgrounds and picnic shelters. You might even interpretive facilities can be found here. logic history of this regin as you travel the see the legendary “Smetty”, the lake monster. As you travel around a loop nature trail major highways. about 0.8 mile long, you will go back 60 million One of our many treasures is an abun- T DeSmet Lake Monster dance of large mountain meadows. These Lake Desmet not only attracts fishermen looking years to the geologic era of the Early Eocene when this area was shaded woodlands and natural openings, caused by soil type and to catch the great rainbow trout or crappies it moisture levels, favor grasses and wildflow- provides, but “Smetty” is another great attrac- mossy glades. You will learn how the uplifting of ers rather than trees. Wildflowers are truly tion. Smetty is the legendary creature believed to the Big Horn Mountains helped to create the extraordinary in the Big Horns during June inhabit Lake Desmet. prairie ecosystem we see today. And you will The lake is named for a Jesuit missionary also learn about early vegetation and the forma- and July. priest to the Indians, Father Pierre DeSmet, tion of coal, scoria, petrified trees and other Interspersed with mountain meadows back in the early 1800’s. Rumor has it that the indicators of the past. are large patches of cool evergren forest Indians were so frightened by this body of This area was very different from what can extending from just above the foothills to water, they refused to camp along the red shale be seen today. Giant trees grew in a jungle-like timber line. Ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir shores. Some say that the Sioux Indians area somewhat like the Okefenokee Swamp in populate the lower slopes with lodgepole believed the waters had healing powers and the southern Georgia. A large system of rivers pine, subalpine fir and Englemann spruce at ability to prompt visions. The tribe legend was flowed north to a distant ocean. Huge swamps the higher elevations. that a young brave turned against the love of filled the wide, flat plain between the Big Horn Open landscapes make for great his life because he was overpowered by the Mountains and the Black Hills. There may have wildlife viewing as well. Watch for moose been turtles, crocodile-like creatures, large charms of a water maiden rising from its munching on a tasty bite of willow stream- fished similar to modern gars, and primitive depths. His intended wife-to-be was so dis- side or a family of mule deer bounding traught by his rejection she subsequently mammals and birds. Scoria is a sort of natural brick formed from away, then stopping to look back with large drowned herself. Her father, the tribal chief ears raised and listening. seeking revenge, swiftly administered justice to shale or sandstone that has been “fired” when coal seams caught fire and burned back into the History buffs come to this region to the unfaithful young man. In the darkness of explore the land that once felt the footsteps windy Wyoming nights, his spirit supposedly ground. Scoria can be crushed and used as a rock aggregate for road pavement, hence some of legendary giants like Jim Bridger, Lewis wanders around the shore bemoaning the loss and Clark, Red Cloud, Plenty coups and of his Indian maiden. of the red color roads in the area, and as a road Buffalo Bill. Big Horn country was highly val- Local ranchers often told stories about see- base for unimproved roads. The red color is All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 ued by tribes like the Crow, Sioux, Northern ing a 30 to 40 foot long looking like a “long produced by iron oxides in the rock. Scoria can telephone pole with a lard bucket attached.” be crushed and used as a rock aggregate for Cheyenne, Eastern Shoshone, and Other recorded physical characteristics include road pavement; hence, some of the red-colored Arapahoe. Some of the most famous battles a “bony ridge along the back, with a resem- roads in the area, and as a road base for unim- between American Indians and the U.S. mil- blance to a horse’s head coming out of the proved roads. itary were waged at the foot of the Big Horn water in a swimming motion.” Coal forms slowly over great periods of time. Mountains or in close proximity. There have been tales about the lake’s dark The coal beds in the area originally accumulated side that range from a monster resembling an as peat deposits that formed from the leaves, Source: U.S. Forest Service

160 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia 10 Food, Lodging

Airport Rd H Cloud Peak Ferris Wheel BUFFALO Behind Bozeman Crossing Restaurant 87 The frame of this 1925 Spillman Carousel was 25 King Ln manufactured 8t North Tonawanda, New York. It Rodeo Ln ran for 63 years on Gillian's Fun Deck in Ocean 90 City , New Jersey. Johnson Creek Rd The horses that are now on the machine Fairground Rd are fiberglass reproductions of original wood carvings by Buffalo wood carver Bill Jennings. Mather St Munkres St 9 Craig St

The lead horse on the carousel is painted Jefferson St Hogerson St to represent Steamboat, the famous McKinney St 58 Hess St 16 Wyoming bucking horse. Steamboat bucked Hart St 10 at Cheyenne Frontier Days from 1903 to 16 Town Rd Deer Park Rd 1914 and was ridden twice in his career. The Snider St 299 Indian pony is Little Soldier, a pony ridden by Foote St Holland St Adams Ave N Burritt Ave N Desmet Ave a Crow scout at the Battle of the Little Big N Carrington Ave Stockyard Rd Lott St Main St Horn. The Indian symbols painted on the 11 pony represent various Indian signs to assist 16 the horse in battle. 16 12 87 The Seventh Cavalry horse, complete with Bennett St authentically carved McClelland saddle and Thom St W Parmalee St High St E Parmalee St U.S. Cavalry issue bit, is painted to represent E Gatchell St

Commanche. Commanche was ridden by E Keays St 87 t Ave t Section 3 Captain Miles Keogh at the Battle of the Little Westerm Ave 25

Big Horn who was the sole survivor of S Burrit S General Custer's immediate command. The S Desmet Ave Spillman Carousel has been restored as close- KlondikeSesame Dr Rd 13 ly as possible to its original colors. A picture of 13 this machine in its original condition hangs in the Smithsonian Institute. 87 Map not to scale 25 Klondike Rd

leader to come left pulling the off leader with F Dash Inn Restaurant him. Sharp jerks on the jerk line caused pain 620 E Hart in Buffalo. 684-7930 on the nigh leaders mouth causing him to move away from the pain or to the right. The jockey stick then forced the off leader to the I

right and the swing team and wheelers went NCLUDING with them. A certain amount of strong lan- guage went with this maneuvering, but when you consider the mule skinner had no protec- tion from the elements save what he wore,

perhaps it was justified. S H Six-Mule Army Wagon HERIDAN At Bozeman Crossing restaurant, 1-25 Exit 299 H Big Horn Mountains near Buffalo At Bozeman Crossing restaurant I-25 Exit 299

This replica of a six mule Army wagon was built The high country backdrop on top of the Big , B on the running gear of an 1864 design for this Horn Mountains encompasses much of the UFFALO military wagon. The first design of this wagon in Cloud Peak Wilderness area. This 195,000 N 1857 and the Army brought out three models, acre area was designated as wilderness by ORTHEAST the 1858 model, the 1864 model and the Congress in 1984. LF Super 8 at Carousel Park & 1878 model. The highest point in the wilderness area is Bozeman Trails Steakhouse , D Thousands of these wagons were built for Cloud Peak, which can be seen by looking 655 E Hart in Buffalo. 684-2531. AYTON www.bozemancrossing.com use in the Civil War and design (with modifica- through the peep hole on the right hand side of A tions) was in use by the United States military the sign. Cloud Peak is 13,005 feet high. The REA

Located in the Historic Bozeman Crossing & , G from 1858 until after World War 1. peak immediately to the South is Bomber Conference Center, the Super 8 Motel features 48 The wagon had a payload of 2000 lbs. and Mountain, 12,436 feet high. It is named for a B- comfortable and clean rooms close to the Bighorn ILLETTE was pulled by six mules. The teamster or mule 17 bomber that crashed there on June 28, Mountains & Walking Trail. They offer a conti- skinner did not ride in the wagon, but rode the 1943 with the loss of 10 lives. nental breakfast, cable TV including ESPN and “nigh” or left wheeler mule. The two mules that There are 256 fishing lakes and 49 miles of ,

CNN and free local calls. In the cold winter AND were closest to the wagon were called the fishing streams in the wilderness area. They fea- months you can utilize the outside outlets in their “wheelers”, the next pair of mules were called ture Rainbow, Cutthroat, Brook, German Brown, large parking area. Step into The Bozeman Trail the “swing team” and the front pair wre called California Golden, Mackinaw and Grayling fish N

Steakhouse for fine family dining for lunch and EWCASTLE the “leaders”. The teamster controlled the species. Big game animals found in the wilder- dinner, 7 days a week. They specialize in steaks wagon by use of a jerk line to the bit of the ness area include elk, deer, moose, mountain and ribs, and also serve buffalo. The Buffalo nigh leader. The nigh leader had a stick from sheep and black bear. Room has a complete bar and a casual dining his harness collar to the off or right leaders bit. A closer look at Cloud Peak wilderness area atmosphere. Tour buses and groups are always This stick was called a jockey stick. The wagon and the beautiful Big Horns can be had by tak- welcome. Don’t forget to stop by and ride the was turned to the left by pulling the rein or ing US Highway 16 to Worland or by taking Cowboy Carousel, a “one of a kind” bucking jerks line in a steady pull causing the nigh Crazy Woman Canyon/Pole creek loop tour. horse carousel. www.ultimatewyoming.com 161 11 Food, Lodging HE OWBOY AROUSEL AT ISTORIC OZEMAN ROSSING T Johnson County Tourism T C C H B C Association 55 N Main, Hwy 16 at I-90 & I-25, Buffalo Once known as the “poor man’s vacation” in a and Roebuck Cheyenne model. Chamber of Commerce. 684-5544 or reference to the ride around central scenery Since it seemed natural to include an Indian 800-227-5122. www.buffalowyo.com panels, carousels have brought joy to the hearts pony, the second horse was patterned after and smiles to the faces of young and old alike. Little Soldier, a paint pony ridden by one of The Cowboy Carousel at Historic Bozeman General Custer’s Crow Indian scouts in the bat- Crossing is no exception, but it does have a tle of the Little Big Horn. The site is two hours unique twist. north of Buffalo. Owned and operated by Ann and Emerson Little Soldier is adorned with appropriate Scott, the carousel is a restored 1925 Spillman. painted symbols representing what the Crow Manufactured in Tonawanda, NY, the may have used to assist and protect the horse carousel was originally built to be a traveling in battle. The pony is saddled with a Hudson model - but it found a stationery home for 60 Bay blanket, often used by the Native years, from 1927 to 1987, on Gillian’s Fun Deck Americans. in Ocean City, NJ. The third horse is Comanche, a 7th cavalry In 1987, the Scotts purchased the carousel mount ridden in the Battle of the Little Big Horn frame at an auction. by Captain Miles Keogh. Comanche is the only From his research, Emerson knew that the known survivor of the 7th cavalry under General T Buffalo Chamber of Commerce machinery is relatively inexpensive but carousel Custer’s immediate command in fighting. 55 N Main in Buffalo. 684-5544 animals are collectors’ items and would com- For 17 years Comanche was a pet for the or 800-227-5122 mand high prices. 7th at various posts. After his death, he was An authority on carousels at the auction sug- mounted on display at the University of Kansas, gested that the Scotts have new animals carved. where he remains. An idea was born: a carousel with a herd of Comanche’s saddle is a McClellan, standard “western” horses, the only one in the world. military issue for the day. The saddle blanket is “This area was once at the heart of the con- a 7th Cavalry parade blanket. flict between Native Americans and settlers, and Carousel horses are of two main types, since then it has been ranch and rodeo country. standers that have at least three feet on the I wanted a carousel that reflected the history and platform, and jumpers that have all four feet off culture of the area and its people”, said Emerson. the platform. Section 3 The Scotts hired award winning master The Cowboy Carousel is comprised of wood carver Bill Jennings of Buffalo, WY, to jumpers. sculpt three Western animals. The horses were carved of wood by Steamboat, the bucking bronco is the lead Jennings, then reproduced in fiberglass by Dave horse—and was the first horse carved. Loden, also of Buffalo. Todd Windsor of From 1902 to 1914, Steamboat was the Sheridan, WY, built the sleigh and wagon. toughest horse to ride at the Cheyenne Frontier A new carousel pavilion houses the T Cattle Wars Sculptures Days Rodeo. Only two men ever completed carousel and Buffalo’s finest gift shop. The S edge of downtown on Main St eight-second rides on the bronc. He died in carousel has been restored as closely as is pos- Plaques 1914 after being injured in an electrical storm. sible to it’s original colors. A photograph of this In 1936 he was immortalized on Wyoming’s carousel as originally constructed hangs in the Living on the Edge automobile license plates. Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. Sculptor: D. Michael Thomas Steamboat is portrayed on the carousel An independent cowboy, or small rancher, wearing a saddle fashioned after a 1903 Sears Taken from the Bozeman Trail Sentinel brands a calf on the open range. Surprised at his work, he turns to see a rider from a large cattle outfit galloping threateningly toward him. one of the most notable confrontations in saloon, and fine dining in the Virginian Small ranchers, like this cowboy, rode south frontier history. Restaurant. Walk on ground that was once trod from Buffalo on the morning of April 11, 1892, This bronze portrays a rider for one of the by the likes of Butch Cassidy and Calamity Jane to confront “The Invaders” at the TA Ranch. big outfits challenging a homesteader branding and experience the way it really was in the fron- Sheriff Red Angus, citizens of Buffalo, and small a “maverick” calf. tier days. The accommodations are decorated in ranchers laid siege to the gunmen. Three days elegant period style, combining historic authen- later, troops from Fort McKinney, near Buffalo, ticity with modern comforts, such as private arrived on the scene. The invaders surrendered baths, queen or king beds, and central air condi- and were escorted to the fort, then sent to tioning. The Virginian Restaurant has an excel- Cheyenne. They were never brought to trial. lent reputation for fine western dining, incredible steaks, seafood, and prime rib. Sidle up to the Ridin’ for the Brand 25-foot bar and you will be standing in the exact Sculptor: D. Michael Thomas spot where cowboys, sheriffs, desperados, and In the late 1800s, independent Johnson County cattle barons gathered. You can still count 23 ranchers began branding calves before the original bullet holes in the ceiling. spring and fall roundups. The practice angered larger ranchers of the day, who resented this infringement on the open range. So began the

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Johnson County Cattle War. Wyoming Tidbits The conflict peaked on April 6, 1892, when LF The Occidental Hotel & a group of large ranchers and hired guns rode The Virginian Restaurant A “nester” is a farmer or homesteader who north from Casper toward Buffalo, “the 10 N Main St in Buffalo. 684-0451. settled in cattle-grazing country. Cattlemen invaders” carried with them a black list of www.occidentalwyoming.com and nesters were in constant conflict, and alleged rustlers, two of whom they killed near The Occidental Hotel is an award-winning one of the most historic events in Wyoming’s present day Kaycee. On April 10th they forti- restoration of a famous old west hotel. Take history involves such a conflict in the Johnson fied and spent the night at the TA Ranch 13 pleasure in authentic historic accommodations, County War of 1892. miles south of Buffalo. The stage was set for modern comforts, an elegant 1908 historic

162 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia 100 years combined area real estate experience. Proud to offer integrity and knowledge of the Buffalo community, the brokerage strives to help clients make an educated decision regarding the purchase or sale of property. The Realtors® offer a variety of listings, from residential and commer- cial to ranches and mountain cabins, and they treat all clients with care, honesty, and loyalty. Whether you’re moving to or from Buffalo, count on Century 21 Buffalo Realty to make your future relocation as easy as possible. Stop by, call, or visit them on the web to see what this profession- al agency can do for you. LF Best Western Crossroads Inn 75 N Bypass Rd in Buffalo. 684-2256. www.bestwestern.com Nestled at the foot of the Big Horn Mountains lies Jim Gatchell Memorial Museum the town of Buffalo and the Best Western Crossroads Inn. Conveniently located at the inter- more than 50 years, Gatchell cherished these section of Interstate 25 and Interstate 90, the Best friendships. In turn, the old timers presented him Western Crossroads Inn is Buffalo’s premier full- with the priceless artifacts of a vanishing era. service hotel including a restaurant, pool, From this grassroots beginning in a crowded whirlpool and their pub offering great food, live drugstore, the Jim Gatchell Museum today houses entertainment, dancing, sports parties, games and one of the most historically significant collections more. They are within walking distance of fish- in the Rocky Mountain West. ing, bike paths, fast food, art galleries, museums Buffalo, Wyoming has been called the crucible shopping and a health club. Try the Hoot and Section 3 of the . More than a century Howl Pub and Restaurant, on premises, serving ago, many of the pivotal events in the history of some of Buffalo’s best sandwiches and complete the west took place within 30 miles of here. Near American lunch and dinner fare. The smoke-free M RE/MAX ® the center of town, the Jim Gatchell Museum Hoot and Howl also serves American breakfast Mountain West Realtors lends evidence to that time when this country from 6 a.m. ‘til 11 a.m. 490 N Main St in Buffalo. 684-8886 or 877-579-8874. was neither so tame nor so friendly. Scenes from M Coldwell Banker: www.buffalowyominghomes.com the Wagon Box Fight, the Johnson County Cattle War and Buffalo’s Main Street from the 1800s are The Smith Brokerage The Realtors® at RE/MAX Mountain West depicted in detailed dioramas in the museum’s 75 N Main in Buffalo. 684-5563 Realtors® feel that their office reflects their love main building. of Buffalo and Wyoming, and their dedication to The museum offers a large collection of their community. While maintaining their her- American Indian artifacts, along with memorabilia itage, they are also committed to staying at the from the Bozeman Trail and the Johnson County forefront of modern technology and innovation in Cattle War of 1892. Mingled with the legends of the real estate industry. Behind the walls of their Calamity Jane, Weasel Bear, , Red turn-of-the-century offices, a computer network Cloud, Captain Fetterman and Portuguese links their offices to the rest of the world. The Phillips is an extensive frontier guns collection, global network capabilities and cutting edge phi-

saddles of men who once rode the open range I losophy of the RE/MAX franchise, along with old NCLUDING and items passed down through the families of west values of honesty and integrity provide the pioneers who settled “in” and then “settled” the best of both worlds to customers and clients in Powder River Region. residential, commercial and land real estate needs. Museum visitors can view beadwork of Native

Americans, relax outside near the restored west- S 12 Food, Lodging ern wagons, and meet the past face-to-face by HERIDAN viewing over 800 photographs of people who T Jim Gatchell Memorial made history. Museum The Jim Gatchell Museum of the West is nes- , B 100 Fort St in Buffalo. 684-9331. tled near the tall pines at the corner of Main and

M Century 21 - Buffalo Realty www.jimgatchell.com UFFALO 360 N Main St in Buffalo. 684-9531 or Fort Streets overlooking historic downtown N 877-449-5684. In 1900, as the western frontier period was draw- Buffalo. The museum is contained on four levels ORTHEAST www.century21buffalorealty.com. ing to a close, Jim Gatchell opened a little drug- within two buildings: the main museum built in [email protected] store in Buffalo, Wyoming. His customers 1956 houses the original collection and the , D

Century 21 Buffalo Realty welcomes you to included famous army scouts, cowboys, lawmen Carnegie Building built in 1909 is home to travel- AYTON and cattle barons. He was also a trusted friend of ing displays, educational programs, children’s Buffalo, Wyoming and the Bighorn Mountains of A north-central Wyoming. Owned by Broker Geoff the region’s Native Americans, many of whom hands on exhibits and the museum’s gift store. It REA Jensen, Century 21 Buffalo Realty is a full-service fought at the Battle of the Little Big Horn and is open from mid-April through December 24. , G agency loaded with Realtors® possessing over who called Gatchell a “Great Medicine Man.” For Reprinted from museum brochure. ILLETTE

Buffalo ,

Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual AND Average Max. Temperature (F) 36.0 40.1 47.1 56.9 67.1 77.0 85.9 85.1 74.0 61.6 46.0 38.6 59.6 Average Min. Temperature (F) 9.6 14.3 21.2 30.4 39.5 48.3 54.3 52.4 42.2 31.7 20.0 12.4 31.4 N EWCASTLE Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.52 0.43 0.72 1.56 2.23 2.27 1.37 0.82 1.31 0.97 0.58 0.44 13.23 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 5.8 5.3 5.0 2.6 0.6 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.1 1.9 5.1 6.7 33.1 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 8 / 13 8 / 13 9 / 15 10 / 17 9 / 15 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 12 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 13 Wind Direction NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW Cloud Cover (out of 8) 5.7 5.7 5.6 5.4 5.3 4.5 3.6 3.7 4 4.7 5.4 5.4 www.ultimatewyoming.com 163 T Mosier Gulch Recreation Area This incident, coupled with the murder of 5 mi W of Buffalo along U.S. Hwy 16 Orley E. Jones a few days earlier, set the stage WHICH ISTHEBEST WAY for the infamous invasion of Johnson County in This area lies at the foothills of the Big Horn OVER THE MOUNTAIN? Mountains (map). With almost 900 acres of pon- April, 1892. derosa pine-forested lands, Mosier Gulch canyon is a popular hiking area. There are three major highways traversing the A developed roadside picnic area complete Big Horns in an east-west direction. Each with picnic tables, pedestal fire grates, and a vault offers its own distinct and memorable toilet is available. In addition, the picnic area is a scenery, with relatively equal travel distances trailhead for the Clear Creek walking path which and comparable surfaces. So the choice is up leads back to Buffalo. to you depending on your travel objectives. At an elevation between 5,500 and 6,800 feet, Big Horn Scenic Byway (U.S. Hwy. 14) this area is also home to mule deer, antelope, connects Sheridan and surrounding commu- eagles, and ocassionally black bear and elk. nities with Greybull, Wyoming and includes This area is open for hunting with a Wyoming 45 miles of scenic mountain driving. Look out Game and Fish Department. license. Trout fishing over spectacular valley views from one of is available on adjacent city of Buffalo lands along several roadside turnouts. On a clear day, you Clear Creek. can see for miles and miles. Interesting stops Article courtesy of Bureau of Land Management. L T-A Guest Ranch include Shell Falls, Burges Junction Visitor 28623 Old Hwy 87 in Buffalo. 684-5833. Center and Sand Turn. Open year-round. T Bud Love Winter Range www.taranch.com. [email protected] W of Buffalo on Fort St Whether you choose to explore the breathtaking Cloud Peak Skyway (U.S. Hwy. 16) travers- Here you’ll see some of the most scenic mountain mountains and valleys of the Powder River coun- es the southern Big Horn Mountains and views imaginable. As you pass through a wildlife try or simply kick back on their porch and take in offers breathtaking vistas of distant snow- preserve you will see mule deer, white tail deer, the beautiful star-filled sky, you are sure to enjoy capped peaks along its 45-mile length. This game birds including wild turkey, antelope, and the historical T-A Ranch as a getaway like no route connects Buffalo and Tensleep, in the winter, elk. other. Their carefully restored ranch dwellings will Wyoming. Highlights include Hospital Hill, make you feel right at home. Each room is warm Powder River Pass, Meadowlark Lake and H Fort McKinney and inviting and steeped in history. With one of Tensleep Canyon. Open year-round. U.S. Hwy 16 W of Buffalo just off entrance to the best-in-the-west riding programs, guests are Medicine Wheel Passage (U.S. Hwy. 14A) Soldier’s and Sailor’s Home able to ride the Powder River Range in terrain that rises sharply from the Big Horn Basin near Established at Powder River Crossing of the best matches your skill level. Riding in Big Horn Lovell, Wyoming and winds 25 miles through Bozeman Trail in 1876 as was Mountains is available upon request, and Section 3 steep canyon terrain and high alpine mead- moved to this site in 1878. The fort was built by overnight pack tours can also be arranged. Guests ows to Burgess Junction. This route provides two companies of the Ninth Infantry, in com- are also able to participate in daily ranching oper- primary access to the Medicine Wheel mand of Captain Pollock, for the protection of the ations such as roping, cattle work, range riding, National Historic Landmark. This may not be Powder River country from the hostile Sioux, and branding. (See page 187 for information the best choice for those pulling or driving an Cheyenne, and Arapahoe Indians. The post was about the Johnson County Wars and T-A Ranch.) RV. Grades exceed 10%. Open from memo- named for John McKinney, Lieut. of the Fourth rial Day to mid-November. Cavalry, killed in the Dull Knife fight on Red Fork of Powder River November 26, 1876. Source: U.S. Forest Service It was abandoned in 1894 and the land was deeded to the State of Wyoming for a Soldier’s and Sailor’s Home. accommodating meetings, reunions, seminars, conventions, parties, or any type of special 13 Food occasion. Hunting opportunities with their Upland Bird Hunting Packages or with Little Big H Tisdale Divide Horn Outfitters are available. They hold exclu- 7 mi S of Exit 298 on Hwy 196 sive rights to 65,000 acres of rugged country filled with beautiful game. All of their hunting Wyoming in the 1880s was an open range trips, whether it’s for deer or antelope, promise controlled by cattle kings. Some of the power- to be an unforgettable experience. Reel in ful stockgrowers thought rustling was a prob- 15+lb. trout on three large reservoirs that are lem, but others were just as concerned about M Folded Hills Ranch & totally private. Fishing and hunting packages the influx of small operators who used govern- include all accommodations. ment land grants which threatened the open Little Bighorn Outfitters range. John A. Tisdale, one of the small opera- 28759 Old Hwy 87 in Buffalo. 684-5179. tors, was dry-gulched in a gully just north and www.foldedhillsranch.com. [email protected] east of this spot as he returned home from a shopping trip to Buffalo in late November, Nestled in the foothills of the Bighorn Wyoming Tidbits 1891. Locals were outraged by the killing of Mountains, just south of Buffalo, the Folded this respected family man. Hills Ranch is a perfect place for any occasion. The country’s first national monument, Frank Canton, a former Johnson County Six newly constructed individual cabins, each Devil’s Tower, was dedicated by President sheriff was accused of the murder, but he was including two queen beds, one full bathroom, a Teddy Roosevelt on September 14, 1906. never brought to trial. Stock detectives, such as fully equipped kitchenette, barbeque, satellite The 600 foot-high volcanic rock was later Canton, were hired by the Wyoming Stock T.V., telephone, internet, and a cozy front deck. featured in the movie, “Close Encounters of Growers Association to protect their large herds Free local calls and an on-site laundry room are the Third Kind.” and to intimidate would-be ranchers. available. Their Great Room is perfect for All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Burgess Junction Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 27.3 29.6 33.8 40.4 50.9 60.6 69.8 68.5 58.0 46.9 34.7 28.3 45.7 Average Min. Temperature (F) 5.3 6.2 9.9 17.5 28.0 35.0 40.2 38.7 31.4 22.5 12.5 6.4 21.1 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 1.40 1.31 1.98 2.66 2.30 2.15 1.48 1.25 1.88 1.87 1.42 1.37 21.06 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 31.2 28.6 38.4 37.0 14.6 3.7 0.1 0.2 8.2 21.9 27.0 30.9 241.6 Average Snow Depth (in.) 28 33 34 28 10 0 0 0 0 2 9 18 14

164 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia 14 Food, Lodging T Ucross Foundation & Art Gallery 30 Bid Red Ln in Clearmont. 737-2291 Arvada Originally named Suggs, the Burlington Railroad was responsible for renaming this town with a respectable biblical name.Natural gas, which flowed from an artesian well nearby, created a strange cocktail. Brave citizens would light it and drink the flaming water. Clearmont Pop. 115, Elev. 3,921 Situated on Clear Creek, Clearmont has an old hometown feel to it, with tree-lined streets and a friendly little park and an old jail. Leiter This post office was named for Joseph Leiter, who snows high in the Bighorn Mountains north to was a principle in the Lake DeSmet Irrigation the in Montana. Project. Powder River country is a land of heritage Wyoming Tidbits and tradition. Native Americans lived here for Recluse over 8000 years before the first explorers and When this post office opened in 1918, it seemed Built south of the Big Horn Mountains in 1890, immigrants. The famous “Hole-in-the-Wall” hide Section 3 very far away from the ranches it served. Only a the Sheridan Inn was featured in “Ripley’s out of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was Believe it or Not” as “The House of 69 Gables”. recluse would want to be that far away, the ranch- on the Middle Fork of Powder River, 60 miles ers thought. southwest of where you now stand. Today these open expanses of prairie are home to hard working ranch families a cultural heritage H Roads passed on from the pioneer cattle barons of the in Sheridan County late 1800’s. Bingham Post Office and Once the habitat for great herds of bison, Bingham Post Office and stage station on the Powder River country now supports a blend of Rock Creek stage line was located from 1879 to agriculture and native prairie wildlife. Cattle and 1885 at Benjamin F. Smith’s ranch on the north sheep graze the lands along with herds of ante- side of the Tongue River, where the stage road lope, deer and elk. Riparian areas (the lush crossed. The site is in a field west of the ranch green areas bordering the river) are of special buildings, about a half mile southeast of this importance in fulfilling the habitat needs of peo- sign. The ranch was one of twenty-three stage ple, livestock and wildlife. stations, eighteen to twenty miles apart, on the This country has seen years of oil develop- Rock Creek to Montana stage road. The stations ment, and is now a prime source of low sulfur consisted of stables and houses for the employ- I

coal for the U.S.- helping to reduce air pollution ees on the route, and nine of them, including NCLUDING from power generation plants in many parts of Bingham, also served as post offices. the country. The now pro- Bingham Post office was named for John T. duces one-sixth of the world’s energy. Bingham, superintendent from 1879 to 1882 of Spotted Horse As you pass through this area it appeaars the northern half of the stage line (from Powder River, Wyoming, to Junction, Montana). A bridge S This discontinued post office was named for a endless and barren, but life abounds on the HERIDAN Cheyenne chief, Spotted Horse. The post office is vast Powder River landscapes. Land ownership was built here in the early 1880’s that washed gone, but the restaurant/ bar and gas station remain. along the river is mixed between private, state out in 1884. B.F. Smith died about the same and federal. Pioneers tended to homestead the time, and Frank Mock took over the stage sta-

Ucross low lands close to water, leaving the federal tion and post office. In 1885 the post office , B Pop. 25, Elev. 4,085 lands now administered by BLM. These lands was moved two and a half miles southeast to UFFALO Named for a cattle brand that had a U with a are currently used for grazing. wildlife, minerals Frank McGrath’s Keystone Ranch on Wolf Creek, N ORTHEAST cross under it, this post office was once named and other multiple uses. Prairie vegetation is retaining the name of Bingham until 1894. After produced on soil rich in nutrients and minerals the post office was moved, the Rock Creek line Cedar Rapids, after the city in Iowa from which , D local settlers had emigrated. and nourished by sunshine, snow and rain. adopted a new route on the south side of the Ranchers raise cattle and sheep, which convert Tongue River to Dayton, where a bridge had AYTON

H Powder River prairie plants to meat, wool, leather and other been built. A On 1-90 halfway between Buffalo and Gillette products used to feed and clothe the nation. REA , G Through good stewardship and cooperative H Minnows and Mud Too thin to plow, too thick to drink.” That was Rest area 30 mi E of Buffalo on I-90 the humor of early settlers describing the mud management of the prairies wildlife and live- ILLETTE swept down stream each spring in the Powder. stock coexist. Powder River, flowing north to Montana, has a The river named the “Powder” because its You are in the Heart of Powder River coun- far different character than the clear, trout-filled try - a special place for wildlife and people. A mountain streams that form it. Here the water , banks have a black brittle gunpowder appear- AND ance. This river carries water from melting land of cowboy culture and wildland romance. is wide and shallow and in spring the run-off N

Moorcroft EWCASTLE Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 31.4 36.3 43.9 55.0 65.8 76.7 86.1 85.4 73.7 60.2 44.4 34.4 57.8 Average Min. Temperature (F) 7.6 12.9 19.9 29.3 39.6 48.5 54.8 53.2 42.3 31.5 19.9 10.4 30.8 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.37 0.37 0.65 1.25 2.52 2.38 1.54 1.27 1.03 0.87 0.48 0.41 13.13 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 5.4 3.9 5.3 4.2 3.1 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.4 1.6 3.8 6.3 34.1 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 2 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 www.ultimatewyoming.com 165 e Longmont Dr from the mountains transforms the river into a 15 E Laramie St heavy current of muddy water. Unique fish live in the Powder River and are 1st St N Brooks Av

N Works Ave E Lincoln St

adapted to life in murky conditions. The 16 Bundy Ave

W 2nd St N Gurley Ave stonecat and three minnows (flathead chub, 17

W 3rd St W 3rd St Richards Ave Rose Ave Warren Ave Gillette Ave Kendrick Ave Carey Ave Emerson Ave Osborne Ave Brooks Ave Miller Ave sturgeon chub and longnose dace) have flat- W 4th St tened or streamlined bodies to help them stay 90 W 4th St 4th St near the bottom and fight the current. They W 5th St have small eyes since good eyesight is of little W 6th St use in muddy water. Near their mouth they W 7th St E 7th St have “Barbles” or “whiskers” which they use to W 8th St W 8th St E 8th St E 8th St Westover Rd W 9th St 18

smell and taste potential food. In June, the river Metz Dr E 9th St is also host to the shovelnose sturgeon, channel 10th St catfish and goldeye, which swim by on their 11th St Hwy 59 S long trek to tributary streams to spawn. 12th St E 12th St Stanley Ave Church Ave The Powder River—one of the unique habi-

tats, which supports unique species of Wyoming Camel Dr wildlife. GILLETTE DOWNTOWN H 1811 Astorian 90 Overland Expedition AREA Juniper Ln At Spotted Horse 19 Map not to scale The Astorians, first organized white expedition to enter this region, passed near this point on 14 August 25, 1811. The party under the leader- Kluver Dr 16 ship of Wilson Price Hunt, was composed of 60 4th Ave Gurley Ave men, 1 Indian squaw and 2 children and was Burlington bound for the mouth of the Columbia River to Lake Echeta Rd Warlow Dr help establish the Pacific Fur Company, headed 15 1st by . 90 16 90

2nd Brooks 124 17 Leaving the Missouri River near the mouth 4th 128 6th of the Grand River in South Dakota, they trav- 7th eled overland having one horse for each two Westover Rd Section 3 men. After many hardships they reached their 18 12th St Skyline Dr 126 destination on February 15, 1812. Edward Rose Butler-Spaeth acted as guide through this area. Boxeider Rd 19 Lakeway Rd Garner Lake Rd Hwy 59

Garner Lake Oakcrest 4J Rd Map not to scale GILLETTE AREA Southern Dr

fishing…the list is as endless as your imagination. homesteads, so the Lincoln Land and Livestock Get off the interstate! Take a short ride on company bought them. In July, 1891, the live- Wyoming Highway 14 or 16. You’ll find a little stock company planned the town of Gillette and LFT Blair Hotels - Ranch at Ucross piece of heaven – the Ranch at Ucross! sold lots. The town grew with the arrival of the 2673 Hwy 14 E in Clearmont. 737-2281 or railroad in August, 1891. 800-447-0194. www.blairhotels.com 15 Food, Lodging The Naming of Gillette Want to experience a vacation at a different pace? Edward Gillette was born December 14, The serenity of the Ranch at Ucross is just the Gillette 1854, in New Haven, Connecticut. He graduat- place! Nestled at the foothills of the Big Horn Pop. 23,161, Elev. 4,544 ed from the Yale Scientific School in 1876. His Mountains, Ucross is 27 miles southeast of The Founding of Gillette first job was with the U.S. Geological Survey. Sheridan and 18 miles northwest of Buffalo, a Later, he became locating engineer and chief convenient half-day drive from Yellowstone The area now known as Gillette began when draftsman for the Rio Grande and Western National Park or the Black Hills of South Dakota. Frank Murrey, Robert, and George Durley, and Railway. He then worked as a surveyor and civil The Ranch features deluxe accommodations, Charles T. Weir filed homestead rights in engineer for the Burlington and Missouri including swimming, horseback riding, tennis, Rockpile Draw. The new railroad crossed these Railroad. While working for the Burlington and

Gillette Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Average Max. Temperature (F) 32.2 36.7 43.9 55.3 65.6 75.7 86.3 85.0 73.5 60.4 44.0 35.3 57.8 Average Min. Temperature (F) 11.1 15.2 21.2 30.5 40.0 48.3 55.6 54.0 44.0 33.8 22.1 14.5 32.5 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.57 0.54 0.99 1.87 2.62 2.75 1.49 1.14 1.29 1.11 0.70 0.60 15.67 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 8.2 7.4 10.4 8.6 1.7 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.7 3.5 7.5 8.4 56.7 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1 Wind Speed ( mph / kmh ) 8 / 13 8 / 13 9 / 15 10 / 17 9 / 15 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 12 8 / 13 8 / 13 8 / 12 8 / 13 Wind Direction NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW NW Cloud Cover (out of 8) 5.7 5.7 5.6 5.4 5.3 4.5 3.6 3.7 4.0 4.7 5.4 5.4

166 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Missouri Railroad in Sheridan, he married the Gillette. Calls could be made in Gillette and to ranchers because they provided two products, daughter of H.A. Coffeen, who at one time was the towns of Moorcroft, Upton, Sundance, and meat and wool. Wyoming’s congressman. After he quit working Newcastle. The company offered telephone serv- for the railroad, he was elected Wyoming State ice from 7:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Minerals in Campbell County Treasurer on the Republican ticket. He served Electricity was first supplied to Gillette in Early homesteaders found deposits of coal from 1907-1911. He also served as Wyoming 1915, and the first motion picture theater was close to the surface. This provided an inexpensive Water Superintendent. opened in the same year. Admission was 10 and fuel for them to use in heating their homes. The city of Gillette was named after Edward 15 cents. A regular feature at the first theater was Starting in 1909, small mines were built around Gillette because his survey saved the railroad a pianist and violinist to accompany the silent the county. The first major coal mine in Campbell money. movies. Residents of Gillette also enjoyed roller County was Wyodak, east of Gillette. This was skating and public dances as recreation. the first surface mine in the west, and the coal Gillette Grows The first school in Gillette was built in 1891. seam at Wyodak averages 80 feet thick. This mine For several years after Gillette was formed, no The first schools included students of all grades. continues to produce coal for the nearby power doctors lived here. Until 1900, Dr. Baker would The Gillette High School had its first graduating plant. Campbell County contains more coal than come from Sundance to see patients. At that time, class in 1912 and there were two students in that any other county in Wyoming. This coal has a he and his family moved to Gillette. Other doc- first graduating class. very low sulfur content, and is clean burning. tors began coming to Gillette about 1902. Some Increased concerns about air pollution in the of the early doctors also operated drug stores. Agriculture in Campbell County United States encouraged the mining of Campbell One of the first hospitals in Gillette was estab- After the end of the Civil War, Texas cattlemen County’s low sulfur coal. During the 1970s coal lished by Dr. A.G. Hoadley. Since there was no moved their herds of Longhorn cattle north look- companies planned and built large surface mines hospital, some of these early doctors kept patients ing for open range. The Longhorns were allowed in Campbell County. Most of the coal produced in their homes. to roam free all winter and fend for themselves in the County is shipped by train to coal-fired The first bank, The Bank of Gillette, was start- until the spring roundup. Then the calves were power plants in the Midwest. The increased coal ed in Gillette in 1902. Before the first bank was branded and cattle selected for market. production in Campbell County caused the rail- started, John Larimore offered a check cashing The railroads were rapidly expanding west in road to build 116 miles of new track in the service. He charged 10% to cash a check. the late 1880s, providing a way to market for 1970s. In 1984, the Chicago Northwestern

In 1904, Mr. Perry began printing the Western beef and minerals. For a brief period Railroad began serving southern Campbell Section 3 Gillette News. In 1913 a second newspaper Gillette was the rough and ready terminus of the County coal mines. was estab- lished. The Campbell County Burlington and Missouri Railway, boasting twen- In 1999, Campbell County produced 316.9 Record. The two newspapers were combined ty saloons, a large stock yard, and more than its million tons of coal. The state total for 1999 was into one paper, The News-Record, in 1925 by fair share of rustlers, stock detectives, and shady 334 million. Arthur Nisselius. characters. Then the railroad continued building The first oil explorations began in the 1940s. The First Baptist church was the first church to the west and Gillette matured into a typical Although the first wells were dry, the constant built in Gillette. It was started in 1902 and was small Western town serving as a division point visitations of geologists and their crews suggested the only church until 1907. Most of the early on the railroad and a supply center for ranchers that oil and gas would soon be found in churches did not have full-time ministers when and farmers. Campbell County. The first commercial oil field they were started. Traveling ministers usually During the very dry years of the 1930s farm- discovery was made in 1948. Oil discoveries near came about once a month. ers learned that they must use the land more the Crook County line in 1956 touched off the The first telephone service in Gillette and wisely. Today, farmers protect their land by using first oil boom. Other major oil and gas discover- Campbell County was started in 1905. At this such methods as strip farming, shelter belts, crop ies were made in the 1960s and 1970s at Belle time, several ranchers built telephone lines into rotation, and contour farming. Creek, Hilite, and Harzog. In 1983, 21,000,000 town. Later, in 1910, the Northern Wyoming The G Bar M and 4J ranches raised as many barrels of oil were pro- duced in Campbell Telephone Company started an exchange in as 40,000 sheep. Sheep were popular with County. Campbell County is the second largest producer of oil in the state. Some of Campbell I

County’s oil is piped to refineries in Casper and NCLUDING THE robbing banks, and collecting mine payrolls par- Newcastle. There the oil is changed into gasoline ticularly from Union Pacific Railroad trains. The and oil for your car and fuel oil for heating Everyone knows the Hollywood version of infamous portrayed in the movie, homes and buildings. “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid,” but the The Great Train Robbery, occurred on June 2, In 1969, a total of 758 oil wells were drilled. S

Wyoming mountains and trails hold many of 1899 near Wilcox, Wyoming. The Wild Bunch Four hundred thirteen were producing wells. HERIDAN their real stories and a lot of their secrets. The outlaws flagged down the Union Pacific Gas is also produced in Campbell County. Wild Bunch, also known as the “Hole-in-the- Railroad ‘s Overland Limited and detached the Most gas produced in Campbell County is piped Wall Gang” was an every changing group of express car and dynamited the door wide and south to Colorado and east to . Most of outlaws that thrived during a period of five blew cash like rain as the outlaws scrambled to the gas is used to heat homes and other build- , B ings. Production of coal bed methane began in years from 1896 through 1901. The gang was retrieve some of the loot. Other robberies took UFFALO the late 1990s. Coal bed methane originates in N

a group of ten or so outlaws banded together place, including one at Tipton, Wyoming, and ORTHEAST coal beds and is recovered before the coal is taken by Robert Parker (“Butch Cassidy”) and Harry another at Malta, Montana which netted them from the ground. It is estimated that there will be Longabaugh (“Sundance Kid”). The member- over $40,000. The Union Pacific finally got , D over 100,000 methane gas wells in Northeast

ahead of the outlaws and outfitted them with AYTON ship included a Montana fugitive, Harvey Logan, Wyoming by the year 2010. The importance of known as “Kid Curry”, George Currie, alias “Flat professional gunmen on horses packing high minerals in Campbell County has been increasing A Nose”, Bob Lee, and Lonny Logan, Bob Meeks powered rifles. over the last 30 years. Campbell County now REA , G and William Ellsworth, known as Elza Lay, Deaf With the last known holdup at Malta the leads the state in assessed mineral valuation. The Charley Hanks, William Carver, and Walter “Wat Wild Bunch outlaws dispersed with Cassidy and 1983 production of oil, gas, and coal was valued ILLETTE the Watcher” Punteney, among others. Sundance leaving for South America in 1901, at $1,313,619,608. Wild Bunch outlaws worked out of the Hole along with Sundance’s beautiful lady friend, Etta in the Wall, a well hidden hideout for the out- Place. Some believed they were both killed in a The Future of Campbell County , AND laws, located in the southern Big Horn shoot-out with Bolivian troops, following a Continuing mineral development will bring Mountains of Wyoming west of Kaycee. A sec- series of robberies and living a quiet life there more growth to Gillette and Campbell County. Billions of tons of coal lie undeveloped in N

ond home for the Wild Bunch Brown’s Hole as peaceful ranchers for a few years. Some say EWCASTLE located in a desolate valley near the Wyoming, that after Sundance was killed in the confronta- Campbell County. Future growth will come from existing coal mines and gas exploration and Colorado and Utah border In the winter Wild tion, that Cassidy shot himself. development. These continuing developments Bunch outlaws other ‘s worked out of Robber’s Many of Wyoming’s old timers believe that assure the citizens of Campbell County an excit- Cassidy returned to the United States and lived Roost located in the desert of southeastern ing and promising future. Utah a famous outlaw winter resort. another 20 years of so, attempting to recover Reprinted from Gillette Convention The Wild Bunch spent most of their time stolen loot hidden in the Wind River Mountains. & Visitors Bureau pamphlet. www.ultimatewyoming.com 167 Resources Development Corp. was incorporat- ed in 1958 at which time it purchased mining equipment and leased coal reserves from Homestake Mining Company. Located in the upper portion of what is known geologically as the Fort Union Formation are three important and remarkable coal seams. The three seams are composed of the upper Wyodak with a thickness of 40 feet, the middle Wyodak with a thickness of 12 feet, and the lower Wyodak with a thick- ness of 40 feet. The coal lies in a practically continuous bed varying in thickness from 70 feet to about 110 feet. It is classified as subbituminous coal with an average heat content of 8,000 BTU’s per pound. The present coal reserves will provide home heating for the Gillette area and electrical generation until the year 2027. Upon removal of the coal the area will be reclaimed providing rangeland for cattle grazing and additional habitat for deer and antelope. C High Plains Campground 1600 Garner Lake Rd in Gillette. 687-7339

Food, Lodging Much of the nation’s coal reserves are in the area surrounding Gillette. The Eagle Butte Mine shown here 18 is one of the nation’s largest open pit mines. F Prime Rib Restaurant & Blue Martini Lounge bed and methane is an increasingly important 1205 S Douglas Hwy in Gillette. 682-2944 16 Food, Lodging source of natural gas. Video presentations and When visiting out of town and looking for a static exhibits in the Rockpile Museum illustrate good place to grab a bite, it’s been said that one Section 3 T Rockpile Museum this vital history. Open daily, June 1 – September 1. 900 W 2nd St in Gillette. 682-5723 should look to where the locals go. So naturally, Call for winter hours. Free admission. as a local favorite since 1983, Prime Rib The Campbell County Rockpile Museum is locat- Restaurant and Blue Martini Lounge is the place ed in Gillette on the arid high plains of S Quilt Nook, Inc. 211 W 2nd St in Gillette. 682-9196 to go. The menu features their popular slow Northeastern Wyoming. Gillette had its start as a roasted prime rib, hand-cut USDA Choice “tough as they come” railroad and ranching com- 17 Food, Lodging steaks, and fresh seafood daily. This multiple munity. Many of the famous desperadoes and award winning restaurant and wine bar must lawmen of the Old West, from the Tom Horn to not be missed, with accolades such as: “Beef Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, plied their T Cam-Plex 1635 Reata Dr in Gillette. 682-0552 Backer” Award, Elite Dining’s “Neighborhood trades in the wild country of Wyoming. Cattle Favorites” Award, “Where the Locals’ Eat Best barons built ranches and homesteaders settled the The CAM-PLEX Multi-Event Facilities just east Steaks” Award, American Express “My Favorite country a quarter-section at a time. The Museum of Gillette, provides 1,100 acres of activity for Restaurant” Award, and Wine Spectator “Award celebrates the rich history of the area exhibiting residents and vistors to Gillette and Campbell of Excellence.” Open for lunch at 11 a.m. outstanding collections of stone Indian artifacts, County. Located on the high rolling plains of Monday- Friday, and dinner at 4 p.m. seven saddles and other horse equipment, rifles, ranch Northeast Wyoming, this unique combination days a week. Conveniently located near I-90, and farming equipment. An original of facilities offers a performing arts theater, a Exit 126. Homesteader’s cabin from the early twentieth cen- convention /exhibit hall, two large multi-pur- tury helps demonstrate the sometimes bleak life pose pavilions, rodeo grounds, RV camp- early settlers endured. grounds, a horse race track and a 21-acre park 19 Food, Lodging Since the 1950’s the Powder River Basin has and picnic area. been an important source of energy for the T Gillette Convention and United States. Today a quarter of the Nation’s coal H Wyodak Coal Mine Visitors Bureau is mined within 60 miles of the Museum and coal On State Hwy 51 about 8 mi E of Gillette 1810 S Douglas Hwy in Gillette. 686-0040 or 800-544-6136. www.gillettewyoming.net This open pit coal mine is the source of fuel for generating electricity in northeastern Wyoming, No services southeastern Montana and the Black Hills 20 Wyoming Tidbits region of South Dakota. Lightning Flat The coal was first mined in 1923 by remov- Right by the border of Montana, this one-time Raising sheep was a hazardous occupation ing the overburden with horse drawn scrapers post office town was named for the violent light- in the late 1800s in Wyoming. Sheepmen and then hauling coal to the surface with horse ning storms that often occur on the plain. and cattle ranchers warred over the range, drawn wagons. and cattlemen marked “dead lines” in the The Marion shovel and the P & H crane New Haven soil. Sheep and people could be killed for seen here were used 40 years ago and were Postmaster Harry Wilson named this post office crossing the lines. some of the first mechanized pieces of equip- for New Haven, Connecticut, where his favorite ment purchased for the mine. Wyodak ball team played. All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Hulett Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 33.8 39.8 46.4 56.9 68.0 77.4 85.9 85.8 74.6 63.2 45.2 37.2 59.5 Average Min. Temperature (F) 7.5 12.7 19.1 28.3 39.0 48.0 53.3 51.2 41.0 30.9 20.0 11.7 30.2 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.65 0.60 0.95 1.85 2.52 3.05 1.88 1.33 1.28 1.41 0.83 0.59 16.94 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 11.6 9.1 11.2 9.4 1.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.7 2.9 8.9 9.9 64.8 Average Snow Depth (in.) 5 4 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1

168 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Short-Term Furnished Apartments RIVER’S EDGE APARTMENTS on the Belle Fourche River in Hulett for Your Base Camp...

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Oshoto Sam Rathburn, a former Indian scout, suggested this Native American word for bad weather when Hotel and clouds gathered over the meeting to decide the Convention Center town name in 1911.

Rockypoint Taste the True West Section 3 Once only a post office, general store, and filling station named for their location. Weston 159 Rooms Like the county of the same name, Weston was probably named for geologist/ surveyor John B. Bootleggers Roaring 20s Weston, who was responsible for mapping much of Restaurant the northeastern part of the state in the late 1880s. Hulett 25” TVs T Weston Hills Recreational Area Pop. 408, Elev. 3,755 25 mi N of Gillette on the W side of State Hwy 59 Lewis M. Hulett, first postmaster here, gave his High Speed Wireless Internet name to the town when the post office opened in At an elevation ranging between 3,800 feet to 1886. Located within sight of Devil’s Tower, this Voice Mail over 4,500 feet, the area is managed jointly little community depends mostly on logging and between the Bureau of Land Management and agriculture to thrive. Movie Channels Forest Service. In this area, the lower elevations are grass- H Custer’s Expedition lands with some juniper, while the upper eleva- I Midway between Alva and Aladdin NCLUDING tions are ponderosa pine-covered hills and steep On July 20, 1874, General George A. Custer, Gillette’s Finest drainages interspersed with meadows and scoria leading the first official government exploring outcrops. In the distance you can see the Big expedition in the Black Hills, crossed at this Full Service Hotel Horn Mountains and Devil’s Tower. point en route to the Black Hills to investigate With 7 miles of roads and trails, this area is S rumors of gold in paying quantities. The trail in & Convention Center HERIDAN popular for hunting, hiking, and ATV-riding. And the foreground was left by his party whch con- you may even see mule deer, antelope, elk, sisted of 110 wagons, 2,000 animals and turkey, and eagles. Of course, if you want to hunt 1,000 men, including engineers, scouts, geolo- in the area, you’ll need to get a license from the gists and practical miners. This expedition was , B Wyoming Game and Fish Department. Camping For Reservations

in violation of the Treaty of 1868, which guaran- UFFALO is permitted, and campfires are allowed (unless teed the region to the Indians. In 1875, after Clarion Western Plaza N banned because of high fire danger) but must be government negotiations with the Indians to ORTHEAST kept under control. No water is available here. 2009 S. Douglas Highway

purchase the Black Hills broke down, miners , D The entire Weston Hills Recreation Area is a and settlers poured into this area. Res. 1-800-686-3368 limited use vehicle travel area. This means that AYTON motorized vehicle travel is limited to roads and (307) 686-3000 H Camp Devin A vehicle routes marked with “white arrows.” At Wyoming-Montana border on www.westernplaza.com REA The “ATV Loop Trail” is closed to motorized State Hwy 112 , G vehicles from September 15 to October 20 so as The Ft. Laramie treaties of 1851 & 1868 set ILLETTE not to disturb wildlife before and during the big aside the Black Hills for the Sioux, for as long assigned agencies by January of 1876. That game hunting season. as the grass shall grow and the rivers shall spring the military began a campaign to round Article courtesy of Bureau of Land Management. flow. Nevertheless, in 1874 Lt. George , up all remaining “hostiles” resulting in the AND Armstrong Custer was sent to investigate Battle of the Little Big Horn, the Dull Knife 21 Food, Lodging rumors of gold in the area giving rise to a

Battle and the eventual forced surrender of all N flood of goldseekers and camp followers who remaining Indian lands, Native Americans who EWCASTLE Alva poured into the hills violating the treaties. had once roamed the high plains freely were Pop. 50, Elev. 3,995 Sioux representatives were called to confined to small reservations, often far from Alva is another tiny town named for its first post- Washington to negotiate, but in November, their sacred places. master, Alva S. Bender, appointed in 1891. The 1875, before a new agreement could be Two years later the military was still at first post office was merely a dugout. The Bear reached, President Grant used attacks by work protecting settlers and miners. June 1, Lodge Mountains, the Belle Fourche River, and Sioux on trespassing miners to order the 1878 Lt. Col. Luther P. Bradley and 520 men some grassy, cattle-filled hills surround Alva. Indians to give up their sacred hills and go to left Ft. Laramie following the Cheyenne- www.ultimatewyoming.com 169 Deadwood Stage route to the Black Hills. Their mission was to construct a telegraph line between Deadwood and Ft. Keogh, thus tieing together Montana, Wyoming, and Dakota Territories. At the conclusion of a 30- day march they established a summer bivouac near here. Camp Devin, named for Col. Thomas Devin of the Third U.S. Cavalry, had a life of only two months. Although the existence of the camp was short, its occu- pants fulfilled their mission. The completed telegraph line resulted in improved communi- cations between forts and white settlements, opening the way for domestication of north- east Wyoming.

22 Lodging Aladdin Pop. 15, Elev. 3,740 Another stop on the Burlington Railroad to the Wyoming coalfields, this town was named for the character in Arabian Nights to inspire good luck and riches. The name was also given to the Aladdin Coal Mine Company which developed here. The “Liar’s Bench” in front of the bright red Tumbleweeds congregate along a fenceline in Rocky Point. They’re pretty much the only residents of this Aladdin General Store is known for the tellers of town anymore. tall tales who have sat there over the years. Aladdin is the lowest settlement in Wyoming, at 3740 feet elevation, and a basin just to the north 200 feet in diameter and 40 feet deep. The area tury or so, with a few other influences on the is the lowest point in Wyoming, at 3125 feet. The was used by many Indian tribes for several hun- economy coming and going, like an airfield and Aladdin area is also rich in fossil remains, from dred years to stampede buffalo into the hole. energy services. They were then salvaged for food, clothing, and Harry Longabaugh, the Sundance Kid, hailed Section 3 petrified tree trunks to lizard footprints. supplies. The bones of thousands of buffalo from here. When Robert Redford played Colony remain at the site. The site is rich with artifacts in Longabaugh in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance When homesteaders established a post office near perfect condition. A nonprofit corporation Kid, it became his favorite character. He named here, they hoped to start a colony for retired based in Sundance is beginning a major fund the area where he built a home in central Utah schoolteachers from the East. No colony formed, drive to pay for the first stage of an interpretive Sundance. Later, he helped promote the and the post office later closed. center site. Organizers promise that it will be a Sundance Film Festival in Park City, which is jewel for the region when it’s finished, featuring a known worldwide. So the name has come a long 23 Food world-class museum and visitors center. way from where it began. H Vore Bison Jump T Crook County Museum Beulah U.S. Hwy 14 between Sundance and Beulah. 309 Cleveland St in the lower level of the Pop. 33, Elev. 3,510 283-1192 Crook County Courthouse in Sundance. 283-3666 A well-loved schoolteacher, Mrs. Beulah Sylvester Between 1500 and 1800 A.D. the ancestors of did not actually live here when some of her for- at least five Plains Indian tribes killed and Crook County was created in 1875, as part of mer pupils named this town for her. They were butchered as many as 20,000 bison at the Vore the Wyoming Territory. The County is named settlers from Exira, Iowa, and much to their Buffalo Jump. Herds of bison were gathered for General George Crook, a famous Indian delight, Beulah soon followed and taught in from the surrounding valley and stampeded fighter. Crook County can boast of several other Crook County just a few miles west of South over the edge of this large round sinkhole pro- famous people who have touched its history. Dakota’s Black Hills. The first post office was viding tons of meat for winter storage thick lay- The Plains Indians who camped, hunted and established in 1883 in the corner of one of the ers of butchered bone extend almost 20 feet held religious ceremonies here; General George town’s saloons. below the present bottom of the sink. Custer who in 1874, made several camps in the County on his Black Hills Expedition; The T Tinton Sundance Kid, in 1887, spent 18 months in the On the Wyoming/South Dakota border Food, Lodging 24 county jail for horse stealing; and Teddy Initially a gold mining town, the deposits were Roosevelt who visited and fished on Sand Creek thought to be mined out by the early 1900s. Sundance Pop. 1,161, Elev. 4,750 in the early 1900s. Recently, tantalum mining exploration has been The Crook County Museum reflects the his- conducted in the area. The nearby mountain of the same name was a tory of the count—the Indians, the cowboys and sacred spot for many Native American tribes. the pioneers who settled it. Step back in time T Vore Buffalo Jump Numbers of people came here to participate in and view a re-creation of a prehistoric buffalo 5 mi W of the Wyoming-South Dakota border the sun dance, a grueling ceremony that involved, on U.S. Hwy 14 near I-90. 283-1192 jump, plus other early native American artifacts. among other things, staring at the sun. The first Visit the turn of the century rooms for a glimpse The Vore Buffalo Jump is on U.S. Highway 14, white settler here, Albert Hoge, set up a supply of domestic life of these adventurous settlers. near I-90 between Sundance and Beulah. This station for ranchers in 1879. Cattle and lumber Take a look at authentic cowboy gear, including unique site is a natural sinkhole approximately became the primary industries over the next cen- guns, saddles and branding irons. These are just All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Sundance Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 31.5 35.4 42.1 53.7 64.1 74.3 83.0 81.9 71.7 58.9 42.7 33.9 56.1 Average Min. Temperature (F) 9.2 12.5 18.7 28.9 38.9 47.7 54.5 52.8 42.9 32.5 20.9 12.7 31.0 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.74 0.70 1.06 1.89 2.75 3.30 1.99 1.45 1.42 1.32 0.87 0.74 18.25 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 11.2 10.7 12.1 11.1 2.4 0.3 0.0 0.0 0.7 4.7 9.3 12.0 74.5 Average Snow Depth (in.) 7 6 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 4 2

170 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia d

SUNDANCE Pleasent Valley R

ve

E Hill St

ustreal A

Ind Canyon Rd E Oak Stn St

E Mai ell St E Sew 90 E Park St 14 S 2nd St S 3rd St S 1st St E Ryan St E Tompson St E Alden St Frontage St E Edna St

90 14 Map not to scale

Moonlight Ave S Sundance Mercantile Western Gifts & Antiques 109 N 3rd in Sundance. 283-2274 or 800-299-2606. Section 3 www.sundancemerchantile.com. a few of the exhibits on display. The museum is Area and Information Center south of 1-90 just [email protected] open year round and admission is free. east of Sundance, Wyoming. Excerpted from museum brochure. Nestled in downtown Sundance is the Mercantile H The Custer Expedition where you can enjoy a bit of the West from long H Crook County About 16 mi S of Sundance on State Hwy 585 ago and the present day. Discover their collections E of Sundance at Sundance Rest Area on I-90 Camped here July 22-23, 1874. General of authentic western souvenirs from local and Exit 189 George Custer and officers climbed Inyan Kara regional artisans. Items you will enjoy perusing Serving as a western gateway to the Black Mountain. Two soldiers died while in camp and include: pottery, jewelry, furniture, music, art, Hills, Crook County, Wyoming is a place of were buried on the mountain side to the east and hunting and fishing gear. Log furniture and beauty and diversity. The varied terrain accessories come from the mountains of includes the state’s lowest elevation, 3,125 H Inyan Kara Methodist Wyoming and the Black Hills. Authentic feet, situated north of the town of Aladdin, Episcopal Church Arapahoe, Sioux, Northern Cheyenne, and while rugged Warren Peak rises to a height of About 11 mi S of Sundance on State Hwy 585 Shoshone collectibles are also featured. Western collectibles and antiques will delight you as you 6,800 feet. Among the county’s many com- One of the first country churches in Wyoming find special treasures to take home. There is plen- munities is nearby Sundance from which was built by Rev. 0. B. Chassell, pastor of ty of parking, even for RV’s in the center lane. famous desperado Harry Longabaugh took the Sundance Circuit, and member of Inyan Kara name ‘Sundance Kid” after being imprisoned I Community in 1891. Site one mile west. NCLUDING there for horse stealing. Long a favorite hunting ground of Plains Indian tribes, a few white men had entered what is now Crook County before 1874. In that year an elaborate military expedition led by S Lieutenant Colonel George A. Custer passed HERIDAN near this point prior to discovering gold in the Black Hills. Hoards of gold hungry prospectors

quickly descended on the area, although the , B Fort Laramie Treaty of 1868 had reserved the UFFALO

Black Hills for the Sioux Nation. Bloody conflict N ensued, but General George Crook, for whom ORTHEAST the county is named, played an instrumental role in defeating the Indians and confining them L Best Western Inn at Sundance , D to reservations. Crook County was thus opened 2719 E Cleveland in Sundance. 283-2800 or AYTON to white settlement. 800-238-0965. www.blackhillslodging.com M United Country A In 1876, gold seekers founded Beulah, REA

Sundance is the gateway to the Devils Tower , G Crook County’s oldest town. Despite the initial Western Properties, Inc area, and the Best Western Inn at Sundance is a 304 Cleveland in Sundance. 283-1901 or lure of gold, ranching provided the county’s ILLETTE great base camp while exploring the area. They 888-283-1901. enduring wealth. After the Civil War, great cattle have an indoor pool which features a beautiful www.unitedcountrywyoming.com drives brought Texas Longhorns to the inlaid cedar finish and a hot tub and sun deck. The Black Hills are an incredible place to own Northwestern plains. Herds were driven through ,

Their oversized guest rooms have a great view of AND Moorcroft and western Crook County on the property, but finding the right piece can be a the Black Hills and include free HBO® and challenge. Pat Donahue and his staff can save you Texas Trail, leaving in their dusty wake the Disney® channel with expanded cable TV. They beginnings of a cattle kingdom in Wyoming. time and money locating the property of your N

offer free deluxe continental breakfast with EWCASTLE Stock raising, lumbering, oil and tourism all play dreams in Wyoming, Montana and South Dakota. French toast and waffles. Other in-room ameni- They offer one of the finest selections of residen- an important role in the modern day Crook ties include iron and ironing board, hairdryer, County economy. Tourists enjoy the abundant tial property, country homes, historic estates, and coffee/tea maker. Pets are welcome for a retirement property, waterfront and commercial recreational opportunities offered by scenic small extra charge. And high-speed internet Devil’s Tower-the nation’s first national monu- real estate available anywhere. They specialize in keeps you in touch with the rest of the world. finding the right farm, ranch, wooded acreage, ment-the Black Hills National Forest and There’s plenty of free parking with winter hook- . LOCATION: Sundance Rest hunting tract, or recreational land for their ups and room for oversized vehicles. clients. Let them help you stake your claim at www.ultimatewyoming.com 171 beautiful Sundance Canyon Ranch only 15 miles southwest of the historic town of Sundance. Parcels available from 35 acres and up. Wyoming has low real estate taxes, no state income tax, and no death tax. Doesn’t get any better than that.

25 Food, Lodging Carlile Cecil S. Handcock, first postmaster, named this post office for an unknown relative in 1887. Also a railroad station, the post office later closed. T Devils Tower National Monument Visitor Center On Hwy 110 at Devils Tower. 467-5283 Learn about the First National Monument Proclaimed September 24, 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt. The Visitor Center is located at the end of the park road at the base of the Tower. See a variety of exhibits and a Natural History Association bookstore. There are outdoor wayside exhibits throughout the monument area. Open daily April through mid-October. Call for specific hours. T Devils Tower “A dark mist lay over the Black Hills, and the land was like iron,” N. Scott Momaday wrote. “At the top of the ridge I caught sight of Devils Tower upthrust against the gray sky as if in the birth of time the core of the earth had broken through its crust and the motion of the world was begun. Section 3 There are things in nature that engender an awful quiet in the heart of man; Devil’s Tower is one of them.” Several Indian nations of the Great Plains share similar legends on the origin of this promi- woman to reach the summit. and 3. Over millions of years the sedimentary nent butte. The Kiowa people say: Records of Tower climbs have been kept since rock eroded to expose Devils Tower and accentu- “Eight children were there at play, seven sis- 1937. Approximately 5,000 climbers come here ate Little . The Tower rises 867 ters and their brother. Suddenly the boy was every year from all over the world to climb on the feet from its base, 1,267 above the river, and struck dumb; he trembled and began to run upon massive columns. More than 220 routes have 5,112 feet above sea level. The area of its tear- his hands and feet. His fingers became claws, and now been used in climbing the Tower. drop shaped top is 1.5 acres. Its base diameter is his body was covered with fur. Directly there was But there is more to this area than the Tower. 1,000 feet. a bear where the boy had been. The sisters were Life thrives around its base. Here in Wyoming’s Reprinted from National Parks Brochure northeast corner, the Black Hills pine forests terrified; they ran, and the bear after them. They Devil’s Tower— came to the stump of a great tree, and the tree merge with rolling plains grasslands. At Devils spoke to them. It bade them climb upon it, and Tower you can see every step in the process of A Sacred Site to Indians establishing a forest-from bare rock to pines. And as they did so it began to rise into the air. The How is Devils Tower A because mountains and plains converge here, you bear came to kill them, but they were just beyond Sacred Site to American Indians? its reach. It reared against the tree and scored the may find a great variety of birds. More than 150 species have been counted-including hawks, bald George L. San Miguel • August 1994 bark all around with its claws. The seven sisters Courtesy of were borne into the sky, and they became the and golden eagles, prairie falcon, turkey vulture, stars of the Big Dipper.” and American kestrel. No one will miss the “A review of the ethnographic literature demon- “Bear Lodge” is one American Indian name for brightness of the male mountain bluebird, the strates that Devils Tower was a sacred area for the Tower. The name Devils Tower was affixed in industriousness of the nuthatches, or the feisti- several Plains Tribes, and that it has been encod- 1875 by Col. Richard I. Dodge. Gen. George ness of the black-billed magpie. Predominant ed as an important landmark in tribal narratives.”1 Armstrong Custer had confirmed gold reports in mammals are the white-tailed deer and black- According to the National Park Service, over today’s South Dakota portion of the Black Hills. tailed prairie dog. You can spend hours watching twenty tribes have potential cultural affiliation Dodge’s expedition was sent to survey the area. In busy, playful prairie dogs in their “town” on the with Devils Tower National Monument:1 the late 19th century, science had an explanation grasslands below the Tower. for every natural occurrenceor would shortly. Wildlife has been protected here since 1906, Assiniboine & Lakota (MT), Blackfeet, Blood Devils Tower was determined to be the core of an when President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed (Canada), Crow, Cheyenne River Lakota, Crow ancient volcano. Devils Tower the first national monument under Creek Lakota, Devil’s Lake Lakota, Eastern On July 4, 1893, with fanfare and more than the new Antiquities Act. His action made Shoshone, Flandreau Santee Dakota, Kootnai & 1,000 spectators, William Rogers and Willard Wyoming the home of our first national park- Salish, Lower Brule Lakota, Northern Arapaho, Ripley made the first ascent, using a wooden lad- Yellowstone in 1872-and our first national monu- Northern Cheyenne, Oglala Lakota, Pigeon der they had built that spring for the first 350 ment. During the Great Depression, the Civilian (Canada), Rosebud Lakota, Sissteon-Wahpeton feet. The fact that they already had a flagpole Conservation Corps built road improvements, Dakota, Southern Arapaho, Southern Cheyenne,

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 waiting for raising Old Glory atop the Tower sug- camping and picnicking facilities, and a museum. Standing Rock Lakota, Three Affiliated Tribes, gests the “first ascent” might have been one day The roughhewn log museum still serves as a visi- Turtle Mountain Chippewa, and Yankton Dakota. before. The climbers’ wives ran the refreshment tor center, book sales outlet, and the registration office for rock climbers. Tribes with historical and geographical ties to stand and sold pieces of the flag as souvenirs. the Devils Tower area include: 1 Such was life in the Old West. The Tower became 1. About 60 million years ago molten magma a Fourth of July meeting place for families from forced its way into overlying sedimentary rocks Arapaho, Crow, Lakota, Cheyenne, Kiowa, and area ranches, who might see each other but once and cooled underground. The cooling igneous the Shoshone. a year. At the annual picnic in 1895, Mrs. Rogers rock contracted, fracturing into columns. An ear- used her husband’s ladder to become the first lier flow formed today’s Little Missouri Buttes. 2. Traditional ceremonial activities which demon-

172 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia strate the sacred nature of Devils Tower to American Indians include:1 ATIONAL RASSLANDS purchase and restore damaged lands and to N G resettle destitute families. Personal Rituals: From these disastrous days, a hundred Prayer offerings (bundles and cloths), sweatlodge Flowing east of the Rocky Mountains, from years after the Homestead Act, on June 23, ceremonies, vision quests, funerals. the badlands of North Dakota and Wyoimng 1960, the National Grasslands were born. Group Rituals: to north-central Texas, spilling into the Great Grass is the key to maintaining the productivi- Sun Dance Plains, are 17 National Grasslands. West of the ty of these areas. Remove it, and the soil blows Rockies, in the Great Basin states of Oregon, away. When rain falls, the barren ground can’t Sacred Narratives: California and Idaho, are three more National absorb water and it runs off quickly carrying silt Origin legends, legends of culture heros, and leg- Grassland expanses. These wind swept seas ends of the origins of ceremonies and sacred into streams and ponds. These grasslands of grass and wildflowers have witnessed the objects. must be used wisely for the benefit of the land Among these rituals, all are still practiced at pageant of the frontier, the Dust Bowl and and its inhabitants. Devils Tower except for funerals. The Arapaho, reclamation of 20 publicly owned National Our nation’s 20 National Grasslands are Cheyenne, Crow, Kiowa, and Lakota all have a sim- Grasslands totaling almost four million acres an outstanding conservation success story. ilar sacred origin legend for Devils Tower. See administered by the USDA Forest Service. They are examples of progressive agriculture 2 Gunderson 1988 for descriptions of these legends. The grass seemed eternal, teeming with in arid grass country. Revegetated to provide abundant buffalo herds, elk and other wildlife. Arapaho for soil and water conservation, these inter- It was also home to many tribes including: The Arapaho call Devils Tower “Bear’s Tipi.” mingled public and private lands are man- The Arapaho people have a sacred narrative Sitting Bull’s Hunkpapa Sioux, Apache, aged to complement each other and to or legend on the origin of Bear’s Tipi. 1 Arapaho, Arikara Assiniboine, Atsina, Bannock, conserve the natural resources of grass, water Sherman Sage, an Arapaho, said that his Blackfeet, Cheyenne, Chippewa, Ojibwa, and wildlife habitat. grandfather, Drying-Up-Hide, was buried near Bungi, Comanche, Cree, Crow, Hidsata, Clean water flows off restored watersheds 2 Devils Tower. Kiowa, Klamath, Kootnei, Mandan, Metis, to be used miles downstream. Wildlife, includ- Modoc, Pawnee, Santee, Shasta, Shoshone, Section 3 Cheyenne ing many declining, threatened or endangered Teton, Wichita, Yankton and Yanktonia. The The Cheyenne call Devils Tower “Bear’s Lodge,” species, thrives in reborn habitats. And, under “Bear’s House,” “Bear’s Tipi,” and “Bear Peak.” United States acquired most of the Great a nurturing shield of vegetation, once wound- The Cheyenne camped and hunted at Devils Plains and Great Basin from France with the ed soil rebuilds its fertility. Water develop- Tower in the winter.1 Louisiana Purchase of 1803. Until the late ments have provided additional wetland “This (Devils Tower) was a very holy place 1860s, the Great Plains region was perhaps resources to benefit livestock operations, 2 to us.” America’s last frontier. wildlife and recreation. The Cheyenne people have a sacred narrative The Homestead Act of 1862 brought Private farmlands within the National or legend on the origin of Bear’s Lodge.1 almost six million settlers by 1890 who tried to Grassland boundaries add diversity to the “A band of Cheyenne Indians went on one of replace grass with crops more beneficial to its visits to ‘Bear’s Tipi’ to worship the Great prairie habitat. The presence of prairie dog economic aspirations. The settlers soon dis- Spirit, as did many other tribes before the white colonies creates habitat favorable for such man came. The Cheyenne braves took their fami- covered, however, that while these vast grass- wildlife as burrowing owls, which use the aban- lies with them as they felt that would be safe, as lands were productive in wet years, they were doned burrows. The rare black-footed ferret Bear’s Tipi was a holy place.” 2 also subject to serious drought and bitter win- preys on the prairie dogs and use their burrows, Devils Tower is where Sweet Medicine died and ters. Land that should never have been plowed as well. Rattlesnakes are the only poisonous it is his final earthly resting place. Sweet Medicine is yielded its topsoil to incessant dry winds. snakes found in the grassland; they are seldom I

the great culture hero of the Cheyenne who NCLUDING Above parts of Oklahoma, Texas, Wyoming, seen during the heat of the day. brought the Four Sacred Arrows to the tribe. The Nebraska, Kansas, Colorado and the Dakotas, National Grasslands are rich in mineral, oil Four Sacred Arrows’ sanctuary was located within a dust clouds rose to over 20,000 feet. Ten-foot secret cave on the south side of Bear’s Lodge.1 Sweet and gas resources. They also provide diverse drifts of fine soil particles piled up like snow in Medicine also founded the Cheyenne Warrior recreational uses, such as mountain biking,

Societies, tribal government, special laws, and cere- a blizzard, burying fences and closing roads. hiking, hunting, fishing, photography, birding S HERIDAN monies. As Sweet Medicine lay dying in a hut by During the same time, bison were largely and sightseeing. Fossils, prehistoric and his- Bear’s Lodge, he foretold a dark prophecy of the eliminated by westward expansion. Ranchers toric resources, as well as many cultural sites coming of the horse; the disappearance of the old filled the large open ranges of the plains and are being discovered. The National ways and the buffalo, to be replaced by slick ani- the Great Basin with cattle and sheep. Grasslands are being managed to protect , B mals with split hoofs the people must learn to eat Soldiers, prospectors, railroad builders and a these important legacy resources. UFFALO (cattle). He told of the coming of white men, host of others seeking the west helped push N

The National Grasslands are important ORTHEAST strangers called Earth Men who could fly above the back the last frontier as they crossed and set- earth, take thunder from light, and dig up the earth lands managed for sustainable multiple uses tled these lands. , D and drain it until it was dead.2 as part of the National Forest System. They By the early 1930s, the broad midsection have made important contributions to con- AYTON Crow of America was in trouble. Not only because of

serving grassland ecosystems while produc- A

The Crow call Devils Tower “Bear’s House” and the Dust Bowls, but the Great Depression was ing a variety of goods and services which, in REA “Bear’s Lair.” , G reaching its economic depths. Emergency turn, have helped to maintain rural

The Crow have a sacred narrative or legend measures were taken to save the farmers and ILLETTE 1 economies and lifestyles. on the origin of Bear’s House. settlers. The National Industrial Recovery Act of The were known to fast and 1933 and the Emergency Relief Appropriations

worship at Devils Tower and built small stone , Reprinted from U.S. Forest Service brochure. “dream houses” there as part of these vision Act of 1935 allowed the federal government to AND N

Devils Tower EWCASTLE Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 34.1 39.5 47.9 59.2 69.3 79.0 87.3 86.7 75.5 62.9 45.3 35.9 60.2 Average Min. Temperature (F) 4.7 10.2 18.5 27.8 37.6 47.0 52.6 50.1 39.7 28.3 16.9 7.4 28.4 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.61 0.59 0.89 1.82 2.61 3.16 1.89 1.45 1.39 1.31 0.73 0.69 17.15 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 9.3 7.9 9.1 6.6 0.7 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 2.2 6.5 10.5 53.3 Average Snow Depth (in.) 7 7 4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 4 2 www.ultimatewyoming.com 173 quests.2 The stone dream houses were about as He was frightened since he did not know how to long as a man is tall. A man would recline inside get back down. After praying to the Great Spirit with his head to the east and feet to the west, for assistance he fell asleep. Upon awakening, he “like the rising and setting sun.” found himself back down from the butte.2 The Crow believe Devils Tower was “put there The Lakota traditionally held their sacred Sun by the Great Spirit for a special reason, because it Dance at Devils Tower around the summer solstice. was different from other rocks.”2 It is looked The Belle Fourche River was known to the Lakota upon as a holy place. as the Sun Dance River1. Bear Lodge is considered a sacred place of renewal. The Sun Dance is a Kiowa group ceremony of fasting and sacrifice that leads The Kiowa call Devils Tower “Aloft on a Rock” to the renewal of the individual and the group as a and “Tree Rock.” whole. The Sun Dance takes away the pain of the The Kiowa people have a sacred narrative or 1 universe or damage to Nature. The participant suf- legend on the origin of Tree Rock. fers so that Nature stops suffering. The Sun Dance “…origin memories of American Indian peo- is “…the supreme rite of intensification for the ple reveal none anywhere ‘as bright- and remote-’ society as a whole…” and “…a declaration of indi- as the Kiowas memories of their days in the Black 2 vidual bravery and fortitude…” “Young men went Hills and at Devils Tower.” through the Sun Dance annually to demonstrate Lakota (Sioux) their bravery as though they themselves had been captured and tortured, finally struggling to obtain The Lakota call Devils Tower “Bear Lodge,” “Bear 3 Lodge Butte,” “Grizzly Bear’s Lodge,” “Penis their freedom.” The tearing of the pierced flesh is Mountain,” “Mythic-owl Mountain,” “Grey Horn symbolic of obtaining freedom and renewal. NPS Butte,” and “Ghost Mountain.” The records indicate that modern Sun Dance cere- have a sacred narrative or legend on the origin of monies have been held at Devils Tower since 1983. Bear Lodge.1 The Lakota also received the White Buffalo National Park Service Graphic The Lakota often had winter camps at Devils Calf Pipe, the most sacred object of the Lakota Tower. 2 This is documented at least as far back people, at Bear Lodge by White Buffalo Calf solved fragments of other rocks and are usually as around 1816.1 Woman, a legendary spiritual being. The sacred deposited by water or wind. The oldest rocks visi- The Lakota claim to have an ancient and pipe’s sanctuary was located within a secret cave ble in Devils Tower National Monument were laid sacred relationship with the Black Hills of South on the north side of Bear Lodge. 1 In 1875, down in a shallow sea during the Triassic time, Dakota and with Devils Tower and Inyan Kara in General George A. Custer swore by the pipe that 225 to 195 million years ago. This dark red sand- the Black Hills of Wyoming. The Black Hills are he would not fight Indians again. “He who swears stone and maroon siltstone, interbedded with 1 by the pipe and breaks oaths, comes to destruc- shale, can be seen along the Belle Fourche River.

Section 3 the Lakota’s place of creation. A Sioux legend tells of a Lakota band camped tion, and his whole family dies, or sickness comes Oxidation of iron minerals causes the redness of in the forest at the foot of Bear Lodge. They were upon them.” 3 Pipes often are held as sacred the rocks. This rock layer is known as the attacked by a band of Crow. With the supernatu- objects used in vision quests, Sun Dances, sweat- Spearfish formation. Above the Spearfish forma- ral assistance of a huge bear, the Lakota were able lodge rites, and in making peace. tion is a thin band of white gypsum, called the 2 Gypsum Spring formation. This layer of gypsum to defeat the Crow. Eastern Shoshone At Devils Tower, they fasted, prayed, left offer- was deposited during the Jurassic time, 195 to The Eastern (Plains) Shoshone claim to have a 136 million years ago. Seas retreated and ings, worshipped the “Great Mystery” (the sacred association with Devils Tower. Their reli- essence of Lakota spiritual and religious life), and returned. Climates changed and changed again. gious world, however, is kept very secret and, as Gray-green shales (deposited in low-oxygen envi- performed sweatlodge ceremonies. Lakota pray a result, cannot be documented at this time.1 for health, welfare, and personal direction.1 ronments such as marshes) were interbedded with The healing ceremony is known to have been 1. Hanson, J. R. and S. Chirinos. 1991. “Ethnographic fine-grained sandstones, limestones, and some- performed at Bear Lodge, conducted by a healing Overview and Assessment of Devils Tower National times thin beds of red mudstone. This composi- shaman. The Great Bear Hu Nump imparted the Monument.” University of Texas, Arlington. tion, called the Stockade Beaver member, is part of sacred language and ceremonies of healing to the Sundance formation. The Hulett Sandstone Lakota shamans at Bear Lodge. In this way, Devils 2. Gunderson, M. A. 1988. “Devils Tower - Stories in member, also part of the Sundance formation, is Tower is considered the birthplace of wisdom.1 Stone.” High Plains Press. Glendo, Wyoming. composed of yellow fine-grained sandstone. “White Bull told of ‘honor men’ among the Resistant to weathering, it forms the nearly vertical 3. Evans, M. J. et. al. “NAGPRA Consultation and the cliffs which encircle the Tower itself. Seas again people who went up close to Devils Tower for National Park Service.” An Ethnographic Report on four-day periods, fasting and praying. There they retreated and advanced. Landforms were eroded; Pipe Springs National Monument, Devils Tower new sediments were deposited. About 65 million slept on beds of sagebrush, taking no food or National Monument, Tuzigoot National Monument, water during this time. Once, five great Sioux years ago, during the Tertiary time, pressures Montezuma National Monument, and the Western within the earth climaxed, uplifting the Rocky leaders-Sitting Bull, Crazy Horse, Red Cloud, Archeological and Conservation Center. March 4, Gall, and Spotted Tail-went there together to wor- Mountains and the Black Hills. Molten magma 1993. Bureau of Applied Research in Anthropology, welled up toward the surface of the earth, intrud- ship. We did not worship the butte, but wor- University of Arizona. shipped our God.”2 ing into already-existing sedimentary rock layers. Vision quests are a very intense form of Devil’s Tower Geology The Tower is Formed—An Ongoing Debate prayer requiring much preparation, fasting, Geologists agree that Devils Tower was formed sweating (sweatlodge), and solitude1. It is a ritual The Tower’s Geology by the intrusion (the forcible entry of molten rock integral to the construction of Lakota identity. In Devils Tower rises above the surrounding grass- into or between other rock formations) of igneous addition to learning lore and moral teachings, land and Ponderosa pine forests like a rocky sen- material. What they cannot agree upon is how, individuals who seek visions, “often regain clarity tinel. Northern Plains tribes worshipped at this exactly, that process took place! of purpose in their lives and a secure identity as a remarkable geologic formation long before white Numerous theories have evolved since the offi- member of their tribe.” Men and women may men wandered into the West, and fur trappers, cial discovery of Devils Tower. Geologists seek a vision for a variety of reasons: to give explorers, and settlers alike were awed by the Carpenter and Russell studied Devils Tower in the thanks, to ask for spiritual guidance, or simply to Tower’s majesty. In 1906, President Theodore

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 late 1800s and came to the conclusion that the pray in solitude. 3 One of Devils Tower National Roosevelt established Devils Tower as our nation’s Tower was indeed formed by an igneous intrusion. Monument’s archeological sites, assessed by first national monument. Many have gazed at the Later geologists searched for further explanations. archeologist Bruce Jones in 1991, is a post-1930’s Tower and wondered, “How did this amazing for- In 1907, scientists Darton and O’Hara decid- shelter made of stone and wood which could mation get here? How did it form?” ed that Devils Tower must be an eroded remnant have been used for vision quests. The Stage is Set of a laccolith. A laccolith is a large mass of A Lakota legend tells of a warrior undergoing Most of the landscape surrounding Devils igneous rock which is intruded through sedimen- a vision quest at the base of Bear Lodge for two Tower is composed of sedimentary rocks. These tary rock beds but does not actually reach the days. Suddenly, he found himself on the summit. are rocks which are formed from broken or dis- surface, producing a rounded bulge in the sedi-

174 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia NDIAN EGENDS OF what drew her from camp so much of the Kiowa Legend I L time. She would not answer any of his ques- Before the Kiowa came south they were DEVILS TOWER tions. Then the man became mad and tore camped on a stream in the far north where the skin from her shoulders and saw that she there were a great many bears, many of them. Arapaho Legend was covered with scratches. One day, seven little girls were playing at a dis- An Arapaho lodge was camped at Bears Tipi. The He demanded that she tell him which man tance from the village and were chased by father of this lodge was a head lodge and had had abused her. Becoming frightened at the some bears. The girls ran toward the village and seven children, five boys and two girls. The two way her husband was acting she told him that the bears were just about to catch them when girls had made an arrangement between them- she had been charmed by a very big bear that the girls jumped on a low rock, about three feet selves that the one who found the end bond lived in the big rock. The bear had no mate and high. One of the girls prayed to the rock, “Rock (end rib) of a buffalo should receive the most had become infatuated with her while she was take pity on us, rock save us!” The rock heard favors from the brothers. The boys often made out gathering fruit. Fearing for the safety of the them and began to grow upwards, pushing the trips to other tribes. After a long search one of camp, she had submitted to the bear’s girls higher and higher. When the bears jumped the girls found an end bone of a buffalo and on embraces, which accounted for the scratches on to reach the girls, they scratched the rock, broke picking it up she turned into a bear and made her shoulders. their claws, and fell on the ground. some big scratches on her sister’s back. The Then the warrior told his wife to lead him to The rock rose higher and higher, the bears bear-girl told her sister, “if you tell the dogs will the bear so he could kill it. When they found the still jumped at the girls until they were pushed howl and this will be a signal so I will know that bear, the man had great fear because the bear up into the sky, where they now are, seven little you have told.” The sister did tell her brothers was big, very big. The bear slapped the woman stars in a group (The Pleiades). In the winter, in and when they heard the dogs howl and give the with his paw and changed her into a bear. The the middle of the night, the seven stars are right signal they were scared and started to run. man ran to the camp to get the rest of the over this high rock. When the people came to The bear-girl heard the signal and ran after braves to help him kill the big bear. look, they found the bears’ claws, turned to They found the bear had crawled into a stone, all around the base.

them. The girl who had told was carrying a ball Section 3 in her hand which she dropped and accidental- cave, leaving his hind feet in the door. The No Kiowa living has ever seen this rock, but ly kicked. The ball bounded up on the big, high bear’s feet were so big that nobody could get the old men have told about it—it is very far rock. The bear-girl reached over her sister’s past them. They could not get close enough to north where the Kiowa used to live. It is a single shoulder to grab the ball, slipped and made very the bear to kill him so they shot at his feet to rock with scratched sides, the marks of the big scratches on the big rock and fell on her sis- make him come out. When the bear came out bears’ claws are there yet, rising straight up, very ter and broke the sister’s chest. The bear-girl he was so big that all the warriors were scared high. There is no other like it in the whole coun- climbed to the top of the big, high rock and told and climbed up on a big rock. try, there are no trees on it, only grass on top. her family that there would be seven stars in the There men were so scared that they The Kiowa call this rock “Tso-aa”, a tree rock, shape of a diamond appear in the east and the prayed to the Great Spirit to save them. In possibly because it grew tall like a tree. first star out would be off to one side and would answer to their prayers, the rock began to Told by I-See-Many-Camp-Fire-Places, Kiowa be brighter than the other stars. This first star grow up out of the ground and when it soldier at Fort Sill, Oklahoma, 1897. would be called Broken Chest Star. From this stopped it was very high. The bear jumped at Sioux Legend time on the Arapaho called this big, high rock the men and on the fourth jump his claws In the Sioux tribe long ago was a brave warrior “Bears Tipi”. were on the top. The Great Spirit had helped the men and now they had great courage and who often went alone into the wilderness where This legend was told to Dick Stone by Sherman they shot the bear and killed him. When the he would fast and worship the Great Spirit in

Sage, 81 years old. Otto Hungary, Interpreter. solitude. Being alone helped him to strengthen I bear fell, he fell backwards and pushed the big NCLUDING Cheyenne which made it lean. his courage so that in the future he could carry A band of Cheyenne Indians went on one of After that, the bear-woman made this big out his plans. their visits to Bears Tipi to worship the Great rock her home, so the Cheyennes called it One day this warrior took his buffalo skull Bears Tipi. and went along into the wilderness to worship. Spirit; as did many other tribes before the white S man came. The Cheyenne braves took their This legend was told to Dick Stone by Young Standing at the base of Mato Tipila after he had HERIDAN families with them as they felt that would be Bird. Samuel Weasel Bear, Interpreter. worshipped for two days he suddenly found safe as Bears Tipi was a holy place. himself on top of this high rock. He was very Crow Legend much frightened as he did not know how he

After having camped there for several days, , B one of the Cheyenne braves noticed that his Once when some Crows were camped at Bears would get down. After appealing to the Great UFFALO wife was often gone from camp, staying away House, two little girls were playing around some Spirit he went to sleep. When he awoke he was N for a short time. As time went on he noticed that big rocks there. There were lots of bears living very glad to find that he was again at the base ORTHEAST around that big rock and one big bear seeing of this high rock.

she was gone longer than before. This brave , D could not understand why his wife should be the girls alone was going to eat them. The big He saw that he was standing at the door of AYTON gone from their lodge so much as he had bear was just about to catch the girls when they a big bear’s lodge as there was foot prints of a always been devoted to her and being a good saw him. The girls were scared and the only very big bear there. He could tell that the cracks A REA

hunter, as well as a brave warrior, she always place they could get was on top of one of the in the big rock were made by the big bear’s , G rocks around which they had been playing. claws. So he knew that all the time he had been

had much buffalo, antelope, and deer meat. He ILLETTE furnished her fine skins to make nice clothes. The girls climbed the rock but still the bear on top of this big rock he had been standing on Becoming suspicious that some other could catch them. The Great Spirit, seeing the a big bear’s lodge. bear was about to catch the girls, caused the From this time on his nation called this big brave in his band might be courting his wife, , he watched to see what man was missing rock to grow up out of the ground. The bear high rock Mato Tipila and they went there often to AND when his wife left camp. He found that no man kept trying to jump to the top of the rock, but he worship. The buffalo skull is still on top of this big just scratched the rock and fell down on the high rock and can be seen on the highest point. N

was missing when his wife was gone. This man EWCASTLE also saw that his wife had a skin over her ground. The claw marks are on the rock now. This legend told to Dick Stone by Short Bull, shoulders now that she did not wear before The rock kept growing until it was so high that who lived a short distance west of Ogalala, coming to this camp. the bear could not get the girls. The two girls are South Dakota, on July 31, 1932. Mark Running One day when she had been gone longer still on top of the rock. Eagle, Interpreter. than usual, he laid in wait for her, on her This legend was told to Dick Stone by Rides the return he asked her where she had been and White Hip Horse. Goes to Magpie, Interpreter. Article courtesy of National Park Service. www.ultimatewyoming.com 175 mentary layers above. This theory was quite pop- mentary rocks. But the forces of erosion - particu- and specialized equipment, climbers have inched ular in the early 1900s since numerous studies larly that of water - began to wear away the sand- their way up - and down - the steep walls. As you had earlier been done on a number of laccoliths stones and shales. The much harder igneous rock gaze at the Tower, you will very likely see in the Southwest. survived the onslaught of erosional forces, and climbers clinging to the precipitous rock. Other theories have suggested that Devils the gray columns of Devils Tower began to appear Tower is a volcanic plug or that it is the neck of above the surrounding landscape. Brave Souls and Foolish an extinct volcano (an unlikely theory, for there is As rain and snow continue to erode the sedi- In 1875, an expedition under the leadership no evidence of volcanic activity - volcanic ash, mentary rocks surrounding the Tower’s base, and of Colonel Richard Dodge and geologists Walter lava flows, or volcanic debris - anywhere in the the Belle Fourche River carries away the debris, Jenney and Henry Newton set out to look for surrounding countryside)! more of Devils Tower will be exposed. But at the gold in the Black Hills. Newton recorded the first No one yet has a definite answer as to how same time, the Tower itself is slowly being erod- detailed description of Devils Tower, “as inaccessi- exactly Devils Tower was formed - other than that ed. Rocks are continually breaking off and falling ble to anything without wings.” it was an igneous intrusion into the sedimentary from the steep walls. Rarely do entire columns There are those, however, who are eager to layers above and that the molten rock comprising fall, but on remote occasions, they do. Piles of take on any challenge, no matter how impossible the Tower did not surface. rubble - broken columns, boulders, small rocks, it may at first seem. William Rogers and Willard In any case, geologists agree, the igneous mate- and stones - lie at the base of the Tower, indicat- Ripley, two local ranchers, were determined to rial intruded and then cooled as phonolite por- ing that it was, at some time in the past, larger climb Devils Tower! phyry, a light to dark-gray or greenish-gray igneous than it is today. The two ranchers made elaborate preparations rock with conspicuous crystals of white feldspar. Eventually, at some time far in the future, for the climb. They built a 350-foot wooden lad- As the lava cooled, hexagonal (and sometimes 4-, even Devils Tower itself will be eroded away! der to the summit by driving pegs into a continu- 5-, and 7-sided) columns formed. As the columns ous vertical crack running between two columns continued to cool, vertical cracks developed as the Climbing Devil’s Tower on the southeast side of the Tower. The pegs were columns shrank horizontally in volume. braced and secured to each other by a continuous How Do They Get Up There? wooden strip. Sometime before the “official” The Tower is Uncovered For over a hundred years, rock climbers have ascent scheduled for the 4th of July, the two men Until erosion began its relentless work, Devils tested their skills on the vertical faces of Devils took a 12-foot flagpole to the top of the Tower Tower was not visible above the overlying sedi- Tower. Using various techniques and innovative and planted it solidly in the ground.

• Leave the rock as you found it. Chipping holds, climbers should an unexpected incident arise. BEFORE YOU CLIMB gluing holds, gardening, and excessive route Available park staff will provide assistance to the cleaning are prohibited. limit of their abilities. Response to an incident Rock climbing at Devils Tower is a popular recre-

Section 3 may take several hours. ational sport. The tower is acclaimed as one of • A permit is required to replace existing bolts or the premier crack climbing areas in North fixed pitons. Do not install new bolts or fixed Injury: The closest medical facility which America and boasts a colorful 100-year climbing pitons. can treat significant trauma is 60 miles from history. With this popularity, regulations are • Power drills are prohibited at Devils Tower Devils Tower. Caution should dictate your essential in order to protect climbers, the gener- National Monument. A permit is required to use actions while climbing! al public, and the Tower itself. We ask all climbers manual drills. to act responsibly and observe park regulations. Weather: Storms can develop quickly, cre- The final climbing management plan for ating danger from lightning, slippery rock sur- Devils Tower National Monument was released Registration faces, and hypothermia. Obtain forecast in March 1995 and currently guides climbing information before beginning your climb and management. For the first time, Devils Tower All persons planning to climb or scramble observe changing weather conditions. National Monument will manage the Tower as a above the boulder field are required to register at Dehydration is common during hot, dry weath- cultural resource as well as a natural and recre- the Visitor Center April through October or at the er. Always carry plenty of water. Administration Building during winter months. ational resource. Management of recreational Rappelling: Accidents often occur when climbing will be approached from this broader Climbers are required to check in at the end of their climb. During off hours, a registration board rappelling if proper care is not taken. The perspective. The plan stipulates that there will National Park Service does not maintain bolts. be no new physical impacts to the rock. Out of with blank registration cards and check-in sheets is posted on the outside of the Visitor Center or Inspect all anchors and back them up if you feel respect to American Indian beliefs, a key ele- they are inadequate. Make sure that you know ment of the plan is a voluntary closure to climb- Administration Building door. During peak visita- tion—May through September—climbers are where your rappel route is before you begin. ing during the month of June. (See March 2000 Always rappel over the nose of a column and Climbing Management Plan Press Release) asked to leave their vehicles in the lower parking lot, located immediately to the right as you enter take extreme care to prevent ropes from jam- the main visitor center parking lot. ming in cracks when pulled. Avoid knocking off Regulations loose rock. Climbing Guides • Register before your climb and check in imme- Other Hazards: Climbing helmets are diately upon your return. Several climbing guide companies hold strongly recommended due to frequent rock • Observe any route closures posted on bulletin commercial use permits for Devils Tower. Check falls. Significant hazards should be reported to a boards and on the Tower Trail. Some routes are with Devils Tower for a current list of guides with ranger so that future climbers can be warned of closed from mid-March to mid-summer to pro- permits. When using a commercial guide service the situation. Watch for snakes, spiny plants, poi- tect nesting Prairie Falcons. Contact the monu- make certain that the guide has a valid permit. son ivy, falcon attacks, wasps, and falling rocks ment for specific closure areas. Establishing New Routes while climbing on the Tower. • Camp only in the designated campground. Climbers completing new routes are asked Planning Camping is not permitted on the Tower. to describe them on forms available at the Visitor Center. New route descriptions are made Some routes are closed to protect nesting • Leave pets where they are comfortable and Prairie Falcons from mid-March to mid-summer.

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 available to all interested climbers. Please safe. Do not leave pets unattended. Pets are not Please check for route closures when you regis- allowed on trails or away from parking lots, the remember that the installation of new bolts and fixed pitons is not permitted. ter to climb. campground, or the picnic area. All pets must be A key element of climbing management leashed or confined in a vehicle. at Devils Tower is a voluntary closure to A Word of Caution • Pull your ropes when you are finished climbing climbing during the month of June. The for the day. Leaving unattended ropes on the Rescue: The National Park Service does not National Park Service asks climbers to con- Tower is not permitted. Please do not leave maintain a rescue team at Devils Tower. Make sider the voluntary closure in planning a webbing on the Tower. plans for self-rescue or assistance from other climbing trip to Devils Tower.

176 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia On July 4, 1893, a thousand spectators rather than pitons. Chocks come in various sizes became the nation’s first national monument. watched in awe as Rogers made the first ascent of and shapes and are easily placed in and removed Rising dramatically to a height of 1,280 feet the Tower. To the wild cheers of the crowd, from rock cracks without damaging the rock. A above the Belle Fourche River, Devils Tower has William Rogers ascended the ladder and ran an carabiner is clipped to the chock, and the climb- become a rock climbing mecca. On July 4, American flag up the flagpole. Devils Tower had ing rope is clipped through the carabiner, effec- 1893, local rancher William Rogers became the officially been climbed! tively attaching the climber to the rock face. first person to complete the climb after con- Others quickly followed in Roger’s footsteps, Climbers usually climb with partners. The structing a ladder of wooden pegs driven into utilizing the ladder to ascend to the summit. leader ascends the rock first while their partner, cracks in the rock face. Technical rock climbing (Portions of the ladder can still be seen from the who is anchored to the wall, belays them, feeding techniques were first used to ascend the Tower south side of the Tower Trail.) On July 4, 1895, out or taking in the rope attaching them. When in 1937 when Fritz Wiessner conquered the William’s wife Linnie Rogers, wearing knee-high the leader reaches the end of the rope, they summit with a small party from the American leather boots and navy-blue bloomers, became secure themselves well and belay their partner. Alpine Club. Today hundreds of climbers scale the first woman to climb the ladder to the top of The second climber then ascends, taking out the sheer rock walls each summer. All climbers the Tower. whatever chocks have been placed in the cracks. must register with a park ranger before and Until the late 1930s, all who ascended the Most climbers rappel to descend from the after attempting a climb. Tower utilized William Rogers’ ladder. In 1937, Tower. With a rope well anchored, a climber can Fritz Weissner led three mountain climbers from literally walk down the face of the rock, slowing H Devil’s Tower the American Alpine Club of New York City to the descent by braking on the rope as it slides Midway between Devils Tower the summit using rock-climbing techniques only. through the harness. There are several standard and Devils Tower Jct Their ascent took 4 hours and 46 minutes. The rappel routes on Devils Tower. These have fixed Although Devils Tower has long been a promi- classic - and easiest - route to the top was pio- anchors so that climbers do not have to leave any nent landmark in northeastern Wyoming, the neered the next year by Jack Durrance. of their own equipment. The ropes pass through origin of the mammoth rock obelisk remains George Hopkins was the only person to climb rappel rings and can be pulled down after the somewhat obscure. Geologists agree that Devils down the Tower - without climbing up first! In rappel. Tower consists of molten rock forced upwards 1941, as a publicity stunt, George parachuted from deep within the earth. Debate continues, Sacred Tower, Climbing Mecca onto the summit of Devils Tower. But his untried however, as to whether Devils Tower is solidi- preparations for an easy descent did not work. Climbing is considered an historical recre- fied lava from the neck of an ancient volcano, Section 3 Food and supplies were dropped by plane to the ational use at Devils Tower. But long before the wall of which eroded long ago, or whether it stranded man. For six days, George waited, eating climbers found their way to the area, American is a sheet of molten rock which was injected well, while attempts were made to locate climbers Indians regarded the Tower as a sacred site. between rock layers. The characteristic furrowed with the expertise to rescue him. George was Today, Northern Plains tribes still view Devils columns are apparently the result of uniformly- Tower as a sacred place. The Climbing eventually - and successfully rescued - becoming arranged cracks which appeared during the Management Plan, implemented in 1995, allows the only person to reach the top of the Tower cooling of the volcanic magma. Geologic esti- for management of Devils Tower as a cultural without first climbing up. mates have placed the age of Devils Tower at resource as well as a natural and recreational Today, modern rock climbers use a variety of greater than fifty million years, although it is like- resource. Out of respect for American Indian techniques and equipment to scale the nearly ver- ly that erosion uncovered the rock formation beliefs, climbers are asked to voluntarily refrain tical walls of Devils Tower. only one or two million years ago. from climbing during the month of June. The unique geological attributes of Devils Scaling the Heights Article courtesy of National Park Service Most climbers free climb Devils Tower, utiliz- Tower stimulated several early preservation ing naturally occuring ledges, cracks, and projec- H Devils Tower efforts. In 1892 Wyoming Senator Francis E. tions to inch their way up the Tower. Ropes and Midway between Devils Tower Warren persuaded the General Land Office to equipment are used only as safety precautions - and Devils Tower Jct create a timber reserve which surrounded the to catch climbers if they should fall. Some Devils Tower, an important landmark for Plains tower. Senator Warren also launched an unsuc- cessful effort to declare the entire area a nation- I climbers utilize aid climbing, using equipment for Indian tribes long before the white man NCLUDING holds and upward movement. Climbers are NOT reached Wyoming, was called Mateo Tepee, or al park. In 1906 Congress passed the allowed to chip the rock or modify Devils Tower Grizzly Bear Lodge, by the Sioux. A number of Antiquities Act, which empowered the President in any way. Indian legends describe the origin of Devils to bestow national monuments status upon Climbers usually wear climbing shoes which Tower. One legend tells about seven little girls federally owned land that contain historic land- marks, historic or prehistoric structures, and S are very tight-fitting and have a special rubber being chased onto a low rock to escape attack- HERIDAN sole to help the climber retain their foothold safe- ing bears. Their prayers for help were heeded. other significant historic or scientific objects. ly on the rock. Many climbers wear helmets to The rock carried them upward to safety as the President Theodore Roosevelt quickly invoked protect their heads from possible rock falls. On claws of the leaping bears left furrowed the Antiquities Act, designating Devil’s Tower the harder climbing routes, climbers may wear chalk- columns in the sides of the ascending tower. nation’s first national monument in 1906. The , B Ultimately, the rock grew so high that the girls National Park Service was created in 1916 and bags filled with gymnasts’ chalk to keep fingers UFFALO and hands dry while clinging to precarious holds. reached the sky where they were transformed eventually assumed administrative control of all N A harness enables a climber to be roped to their into the constellation known as the Pleiades. national monuments. ORTHEAST

partner and to attach themselves to safety equip- Fur trappers may have visited Devils Tower, , D ment on the rock. but they left no written evidence of having done H Devil’s Tower … the first The climbing rope is the most important so. The first documented visitors were several National Monument AYTON Devil’s Tower Natl’ Monument Visitor’s Center piece of technical equipment. These ropes are members of Captain W. F. Raynold’s A made of nylon and are tested for flexibility and Yellowstone Expedition who arrived in 1859. President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed REA , G elasticity. Most ropes last for only two or three Sixteen years later, Colonel Richard I. Dodge led Devil’s Tower a national monument on years before they are too worn to provide safety. a U.S. Geological Survey party to the massive September 24, 1906. ILLETTE Pitons are steel wedges which are hammered rock formation and coined the name Devils President Roosevelt acted under the authori- into cracks. Climbers are no longer allowed to Tower. Recognizing its unique characteristics, ty of the Antiquities Act of 1906 which install fixed pitons into the rock at Devils Tower. Congress designated the area a U.S. forest declared, “that the President of the United , AND Today, most climbers use chocks for protection reserve in 1892 and in 1906 Devils Tower States is hereby authorized, in his discretion, to N

Upton EWCASTLE Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 30.8 35.8 44.6 56.6 67.6 78.3 87.0 85.7 74.5 60.6 42.8 32.9 58.1 Average Min. Temperature (F) 6.0 11.1 19.4 28.9 39.7 48.9 55.3 53.4 42.4 30.8 18.4 8.7 30.2 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.44 0.48 0.63 1.53 2.37 2.61 1.84 1.45 1.03 1.05 0.58 0.54 14.55 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 7.0 6.5 7.4 4.9 0.4 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.3 1.9 6.3 8.4 43.3 Average Snow Depth (in.) 4 4 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 3 1 www.ultimatewyoming.com 177 declare by public proclamation historic land- marks, historic and prehistoric structures, and MOORCROFT other objects of historic or scientific interest that are situated upon the lands owned or con- 90 trolled by the Government of the United States to be national monuments. . .”

W Goshen St

Campbell St Riley St. Crook St 90 Weston St

N Yellowstone Ave C N Big Norn Ave

N Belle Fourche Ave onverse S N Cheyenne Ave Map not to scale N Powder River Ave Johnson St e t Sheridan St Av Coun

try Ln r Ave Tongue River e Riv nd Wi

Carr Rd S Big Horn Ave CLFS Devils Tower KOA 60 State Hwy 110 at Devils Tower. 467-5395 or reservations 800-562-5785 The Devils Tower KOA is located in the shadows of Devils Tower National Monument on the banks of the Belle Fourche River. Located on the filming site of the movie “Close Encounters of NEWCASTLE the Third Kind”, the movie is shown nightly. N Wood St There are 15 acres for tent campers, 56 shady Spruce St Woodstock St Cambria St k St and spacious RV sites, and 11 Kamping Kabins® rwic Wa Main St Railroad St SenecaSumner St St

1st Ave and a full service cafe open for breakfast, lunch, S Pine St Rail

West Rd Sonora 3rd Ave Summ Wentworth St r Birch St oad St 4th Ave Winthrop St and dinner, along with 2 gift shops. You can 5th Ave

6th Ave Maple St 7th Ave it St Wolcott St

2nd Ave 30 even enjoy hay rides, horseback rides, and hand East Rd East Main St

Section 3 29 York St dipped ice cream. Devils Tower KOA welcomes W Main St Wakefield St W Hill St

Howell St families, buses, groups, family reunions, and car- Ave.

31 avans. They are just 30 minutes off of I-90 from Salem Ave. Salem Cherry Ave. Faye

Divide Ave Sundance or Moorcroft. Casc Boyd Ave S Su Deanne Ave Dr. he mmi ade Aver ida t Av e Frontier Ave n St . Cedar Sage St Rodeo St. Gray B

Fa

irgrounds lvd

Stampede St Map not to scale

Rd. Old Hw y 85

Map not to scale Kellogg St

Sheridan St S Devils Tower Trading Post 57 Hwy 110 at the base of Devils Tower. 16 467-5295. www.devilstowertradingpost.com East St

Walnut Ave Cypress Ave Cotton Wood Ave Sawmill Ave Laurel Ave Aspen Ave Redwood Ave Division St Devils Tower Trading Post is located at the gate- Antelope St 6th St way to our nation’s first national monument. It is 2nd St 5th St also home to the world’s largest Harley Davidson Claire Ave flag. It is flown only one week a year during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally and dedicated to all the 4th St 4th St bikers that make it a huge success. Stop by for St lunch and dinner and enjoy homemade BBQ ow 6th Ave Pine St Beef, pizza, chili. Enjoy a refreshing sarsaparilla Will 1st 5th Ave or a sweet treat from the ice cream parlor. You St can find everything to fill your picnic basket or 4th Ave cooler. You will also find an enormous selection of souvenirs, apparel, gifts, books, calendars, Half St Juniper St 3rd Ave magnets, glassware, and other unique items St ak including buffalo hides and local crafts. They also

Roosevelt St Minter St Lincoln St O carry official Sturgis Rally products and licensed

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Harley-Davidson products. Cedar St

Elm St Poplar St 16 26 Food Ponderosa Ave UPTON Neste Oil St Pine Haven Elev. 4,200 Pop. 222 r Rd On the banks of the Keyhole Reservoir, this com- munity is named for the surrounding trees.

178 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Section 3

T Keyhole State Park Birds, Birds, Birds have impacted it in recent years, as has the attrac- 353 McKean Rd, 12 mi E of Moorcroft. 756-3596 Approximately 225 species of birds can be tion of the wild country that surrounds it. History observed at Keyhole or within a mile of park boundaries. During the summer the most abun- Rozet The magnetism of names like “Sundance” and Elev. 4,286 “Devils Tower” draw the traveler to this spacious dant species include the White Pelican, Osprey, This tiny town may have been named for the park. The area was reserved by treaty for the Sioux Common Yellowthroat and Savannah Sparrow. abundance of wild roses that grow in the area. tribes until the great Black Hills in 1874. Birds migrate from the area during the winter. Conflicts with Native Americans grew during this Winter birds that are commonly observed at the park include Bald Eagles, Red and White- T Helen Robinson Zimmerscheid time, and the Sioux lost control of the lands. I Breasted Nuthatches and Red Crossbills. Western-Texas Trail Museum NCLUDING Keyhole State Park was named for the in Moorcroft “Keyhole” livestock brand that was used by two Excerpted from Wyoming State Parks Brochure brothers by the name of McKean. They had estab- Get a taste of the Western heritage that surrounds lished a ranch in the area. 27 Food, Lodging the Texas Trail. This small but charming collec- tion of local historical artifacts is open M-F, Keyhole Dam, an earthfill structure, was com- S pleted by the Bureau of Reclamation in 1952. Moorcroft Noon-4 summers only. There is no charge, but HERIDAN Pop. 807, Elev. 4,206 you’ll gain a wealth of information from the Facts & Figures museum’s displays. Alexander Moorcroft, the first white man to build The Keyhole area centers on the reservoir,

a cabin in these parts, may have given his name , B approximately 14,720 acres of water recreation H Lifeline to this town. The name might also have come At Moorcroft Exit Rest Stop opportunity. UFFALO

from the English hometown of first postmaster, N The elevation at Keyhole is about 4,100 feet. The arid basins and prairies of Wyoming lie in Stocks Miller. A “Dr. Moorcroft” also came here to ORTHEAST The four seasons are comparatively mild with glo- the rainshadows of our great mountain ranges. hunt every year around the time the town was rious weather from spring through fall, and some The shortgrass prairie of eastern Wyoming and , D established, in 1889. Perhaps the town was of the finest ice fishing in the state during the Colorado are all that is left of this native grass-

named for all three men. AYTON winter months. land type. Buffalo grass and grama grasses typi- Once a key point on the Texas Trail, fy the shortgrass prairie. The shortgrasses grow A

Attractions Moorcroft was once the largest shipping point in REA

on the arid, wind blown prairies of the Rocky , G the US during the 1890s. Cattle from all across Keyhole State Park is located on the western edge Mountain front.

the state, as well as Montana and South Dakota, ILLETTE of the famed Black Hills, between Sundance and Water on the shortgrass prairie is limited to rode the rails on the Burlington and Santa Fe Moorcroft, and is easily accessed off 1-90 at exit a few potholes filled from early snow melt, trains from here to all points of the country. 165, or take exit 153 or 154 in Moorcroft, then holding water in early summer. Man has Hwy 14 north 6 miles, then take Hwy 113. Although ranching continues to be at the heart of ,

pumped water, using windmills, creating sum- AND Moorcroft’s economy, the oil and gas industries Within sight of Devils Tower, Keyhole State Park mer long water for livestock and wildlife. Some is situated along the south east shore of Keyhole of the buttes in the area also provide spring and Reservoir and offers excellent fishing for walleye, N

seep water. EWCASTLE catfish, small mouth bass, and northern pike. The life line for wildlife on the prairies, Keyhole is a mecca for both resident and Wyoming Tidbits however, are the rivers, like the Belle Fourche, migrating birds of all species. Visitors have the providing water year-long. The winding Belle opportunity to view many types of wildlife Look out, Kentucky! In 1988, Wyoming Fourche bisects a myriad of coulees and including white tailed deer and wild turkeys. A became the top coal-producing state in the breaks and places water within daily travelling marina, motel and cafe are located on country, knocking out Kentucky with 163 mil- distance of large numbers of wildlife. Large Headquarters Road, adjacent to the lakeshore. lion tons production. cottonwoods and lush vegetation grow near www.ultimatewyoming.com 179 the banks of the river, providing food and shel- ter for the pronghorn antelope, jackrabbits, sage grouse, mule deer and other wildlife that live on the shortgrass prairie. Water, especially in arid areas, is an essential element in maintaining Wyoming’s abundance and diversity of wildlife. F Donna’s Diner 203 W Converse in Moorcroft. 756-3422

28 Food, Lodging Upton Pop. 872, Elev. 4,234 This railroad station town went through several name changes. Originally called Irontown, the water here had a rusty taste. It was later changed to Merino, reflecting a breed of sheep favored by sheepherders in the area. Finally, the town received its current name, Upton, from a Burlington Railroad surveyor, George S. Upton. Newcastle train depot. Osage Pop. 350, Elev.4,300 Red squirrels find abundant food in pine 31 Food, Lodging Osage is an Indian name for “on top of the forests in the form of pine seeds. Look around world”. Named for the oil regions in Oklahoma, and you may see a squirrel midden. A midden the first oil well was drilled here in 1890. Later is a pile of cone scales which has been left after when a gusher well was drilled in 1920 the tiny the squirrel has eaten the seeds inside the flag stop community along the railroad became a cone. Red squirrels may also find fungus, eggs booming oil town with a refinery and a popula- and other seeds to eat. tion of 1,500 in less than a year. 29 Food, Lodging Section 3 T Red Onion Museum 609 Pine St in Upton. 468-2672 Newcastle The Red Onion Museum is located in uptown Pop. 3,065, Elev. 4,334 Upton in the old time “Red Onion Saloon”. The Named for the English coal port town, Newcastle- museum reflects the history of Weston and Upton on-Tyne, this Weston County seat is in the heart counties. Various exhibits display tools and of one of Wyoming’s best coal reserves at the household items used during early settler’s day. Cambria Mines. In addition to sitting on plenty of There is also an extensive collection of photo- “black diamonds,” the economy has been built up graphs, artwork, and items of interest including a by “black gold” (oil) as well, and signs hail it as 2-headed calf. The museum is open Monday the “Gateway to the Black Hills.” Lumber and through Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and there livestock also provide local employment. is no admission charge The Newcastle area was first settled in 1875 T Old Town (Old Upton) by a group of army engineers, surveyors, and W of Upton on Hwy 16 researchers led by Lt. Col. R. I. Dodge and Professor Walter P. Jenney. They built the Jenney The “Old Town” project began in 1995 to relo- Stockade, and set up a station for the Cheyenne- cate cabins and other structures essential to the Deadwood Stage. In 1888, a community named late 1800s and early 1900s life in Wyoming. Tubb Town sprung up, made up mostly of These cabins and structures have been moved to saloons. When the railroad swung further west, the original site of Upton, then known as Iron Newcastle took the place of Tubb Town, and the Town, and restored to preserve an important era wilder elements drifted elsewhere. T Accidental Oil Company of local heritage. 5297 U.S. Hwy 16, 4 mi E of Newcastle. 746-2042 Food, Lodging H Pine Paradise 30 Al Smith, a lifetime oilman, was convinced that Rest stop S of Upton H The Hanging of oil could be found at shallow depths as well as You are amidst a stand of ponderosa pines. at the usual depth of 4,000 feet or more. These majestic trees, which can reach Diamond L. Slim Clifton Seeking oil on land he had leased from the gov- Downtown Newcastle across from train station heights of 180 feet, provide a variety of ernment in 1966 and unable to find a rig, he habitats for wildlife. Beyond this sign, this side of the bridge on the began to dig by hand, using only a pick and a Porcupines, pygmy nuthatches, red squirrels main track, there was once a bridge on the spur shovel and a few sticks of dynamite. About four and mule deer inhabit ponderosa pine forests. that ran up the canyon to the Cambria Mining weeks later he astounded the experts by striking Porcupines find abundant food here in the form Camp. In imagination you might see the ghost oil at a depth of 24 feet. At the peak of its pro- of tree bark, buds and twigs. A slow-moving of “Diamond L. Slim” Clifton hanging from this duction the well yielded a little more than five mammal, the porcupine climbs trees to escape phantom bridge. barrels of crude oil per day. At the Accidental danger. Porcupines are very fond of salt and Slim was hung in 1903 for the murder of a Oil Company, a 120-foot ramp leads to a view-

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 because of this, they are often killed on roads young couple, Louella and John Church, Slim’s ing room at the bottom of a 24-foot well. In the where salt has been used to thaw ice. neighbors and friends. People throughout ultraviolet lighting the oil oozing from the Ponderosa pine forests are sometimes the northeastern Wyoming, angered by the grisly cracks in the 100-million-year-old rock appears subject of attacks by insects and for this reason, deed, stormed the jail, took the prisoner from to be a bright fluorescent yellow, and the process the pygmy nuthatch is a very beneficial resident. Sheriff Billy Miller at gun point and dragged of seepage is easy to see. Antique drilling equip- A mere four inches long, this small bird eats Slim to the bridge. Masked men slipped the ment, including a 1912 steam-powered cable- insects which may attack the pines. Nuthatches noose around Slim’s neck and dropped him tool drill rig, is displayed on the grounds. An are unique to the bird world because of their from the bridge neatly decapitating him. Such 1880 derrick still stands. Unfortunately, it is ability to travel head first down trees. was vigilante justice. now closed to the public.

180 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia It is open year round Monday through Friday H Cambria Salt Mine from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Summertime it opens on Midway between Newcastle and Four Corners Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. In the early days of the development of the H Camp Jenney Black Hills, the nearest railroad was nearly 200 About 4 mi E of Newcastle on U.S. Hwy 16 miles away. Wagon transportation costs to the mines were high, so a bulky, yet necessary, Campsite of the first authorized military expedi- commodity like salt had high value. Springs with tion into the Black Hills. on September 12, a heavy salt content were discovered in the 1857, Lt. G. K. Warren of the U. S. Topographical canyon below on July 8, 1877. In November, Engineers and his party, camped here and 1878, James LeGraves came to the area to pro- erected a log corral, 17 years before the famous duce salt for the growing Black Hills mining Custer Expedition. On June 3, 1875 the expedi- market. He erected a furnace with two evapo- tion headed by Prof. Walter P. Jenney, under rating pans, the larger of the two being six feet military escort commanded by Col. R. I. Dodge wide and sixty feet long. For the next six years of Ft. Laramie, camped on the location of Lt. LeGraves produced salt by evaporating off T Anna Miller Museum Warren’s camp and corral. A stockade was spring water during the summer months and 401 Delaware in Newcastle. 746-4188 erected and became known as Camp Jenney. shipping his product to the mining districts. The stockade was a stopover for gold seekers Built in the 1930s, the museum was originally a Some of the salt went to the general stores of during the winter 75-76 and later became a WPA project for Company !, 115th Cavalry of the Deadwood and Lead but its chief use was in stage station. The Stockade is now located by Wyoming National Guard. The structure is built chloridizing the gold and silver ores mined in the Anna Miller Museum. of hand-hewn sandstone blocks, quarried from the Black Hills. nearby Salt Creek. Originally there were three N. H. Darton reported in 1904 that the main areas: the tack room, the stables and the 32 Food, Lodging spring along Salt Creek flowed at the rate of sergeant’s quarters, which all now house many of about 1 gps (gallon per second) and the water the exhibits. T Moskee contained a little more than 5% sodium chlo- Included with the museum complex is the U.S. Hwy 85 near the Hardy Ranger Station ride (salt). According to Darton’s calculations, Green Mountain School. This one-room build- Section 3 In the early 1900s, the McLaughlin Tie & Timber about 35,000 pounds of salt were produced ing is typical of rural schoolhouses of the Company started this sawmill town. In 1907, every 24 hours. 1890-1930s. It contains a wood burning stove, however, they ceased operations. In 1921, the The Cambria Salt Company was organized school desks, maps, blackboards, globe, bell, Homestake Mining Company began lumbering in 1907 and prepared to manufacture and water bucket and dipper along with lunch and sawmilling for mine timbers. During the refine salt for the large western market. In an boxes and more. Second World War, the mill and town were unsuccessful effort to locate the bed of rock salt Also on the complex is the Homesteader’s closed and never reopened. Not much remains of from which the brine comes, several wells were House and the Jenny Stockade, true models of this old site, which was almost all leveled by drilled, one having a depth of 825 feet. The pioneer cabins and representative of how the Homestake. evaporating and purifying plant, arranged for westerners once lived. The Jenny Stockade Cabin coal fuel, was located over the divide to the is the oldest existing building of the Black Hills H Salt Creek Overlook west near the Cambria coal mine and the brine gold rush. It was also a stage station along the About 7 mi N of Newcastle on Hwy 85 was pumped to it. Cheyenne Deadwood Trail. The Black Hills, named after the dark green The Cambria Salt Company failed. The com- carpets of pines that cover the hills, are a pany’s equipment was sold at a bankruptcy sale geological wonder. Covering some 125 miles May 11, 1909 essentially ending salt production north to south and 65 miles east to west, the at the Salt Mine. Wyoming Tidbits Hills rise 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the red

valley floor. Below you are Salt and Beaver H Cambria Mining Camp I Frewen’s Castle near Sussex was the home of NCLUDING creeks where the bur oak grows. Above the 6 mi N of Newcastle on U.S. Hwy 85 Winston Churchill’s Aunt Clara. The Castle valley floor, ponderosa pine and aspen About 5 miles west is the site of the once pic- was built by Clara and Moreton Frewen. groves cling to the limestone cliffs, clay soil turesque Cambria Mining Camp—now a vacant- and red sandstone. ly ghostly place. In 1887 Frank Mondell, sent by

History, geology and wildlife are alive and the construction firm, Kilpatrick Brothers and S The museum houses many interesting artifacts HERIDAN well in the Salt Creek Valley. The Sioux believed Collins, discovered coal at Cambria. This was from the Old Cambria Coal Camp. A crew of the Great Spirit lived in these hills. Pioneers the first coal found along a proposed rail route men, who worked for the Kilpatrick Brothers and came here to mine for coal and oil. Small suitable for use in the locomotives of the day. Collins Co., discovered the coal in 1887, 7 miles

towns, like nearby Cambria, sprang up as fast as It made possible the extension of the , B northwest of Newcastle. Cambria was known as they were deserted. Tales of gunfights, stage Burlington through previously isolated north- the “Model Coal Camp of the World.” Saloons UFFALO robberies and gambling are kept alive by those eastern Wyoming, and the founding of N couldn’t be built in the coal-mining town, who never left. Newcastle in 1889. ORTHEAST because of a promise the Kilpatrick brothers White-tailed deer roam through the pines Cambria was a prideful community of three made to their mother. A police force was never , D and aspens. Wild turkeys scratch through leaves churches and nary a saloon. Fifteen hundred formed because the town of Cambria never incor- and needles along the creek bottoms, in search people of 23 nationalities lived harmoniously AYTON porated. A lone sheriff, armed with brass knuck- there; 13,000,000 tons of coal were mined

of acorns and seeds. Brought here from New A les and a gun, enforced the law. Mexico in 1948, turkeys are now the most before seams played out in 1928. REA

The museums display of fossils thrills young , G widespread game bird in northeastern Reminiscing old-timers sigh, “there was and old alike. The collection includes the skull-

Wyoming. These shy, elusive birds don’t let never a place like it”. ILLETTE cap of Pachysephalosaures, sections of humans get too close. At night, they roost in Tyrannosaurs Rex and Triceratops. treetops and return to the ground at daybreak Yesteryear comes alive in the museum’s coun- 33 Lodging to forage. Watch closely and you could see one , try store. It is filled with nostalgic items like P&G AND of these magnificent birds! bar soap used by pioneer women to scrub clothes Four Corners At the intersection of Highways 85 and 585, this

on washboards. The store brings back memories N H Flying V Cambria Inn crossroads town has a post office and a small for some. For others it provides a glimpse of N of Newcastle on U.S. Hwy 85 EWCASTLE turn-of-the-century life. store. In 1923 Cambria Coal Company started con- The museum was named after Anna Cecelia struction of a resort retreat type facility for the McMoran Miller, the daughter of a pioneer family, H Canyon Springs Stage Station town of Cambria and the surrounding areas. U.S Hwy 85 at Four Corners and the widow of Sheriff Billy Miller, who was Completed in 1928 it was first known as killed in what is known as the last Indian battle The scene of the only successful raid on a Cambria Casino Park. Today the Flying V oper- in the area. She was Newcastle’s first librarian, a Deadwood treasure coach. On September 26, ates as a restaurant, B&B and Lounge. pioneer schoolteacher and school superintendent. 1878, the treasure coach, carrying between www.ultimatewyoming.com 181 20,000 and 140,000-reports vary-was held up 36 Food, Lodging at this place. Hugh Cambell, a passenger, was Wyoming Tidbits killed and the driver, Gale Hill, was badly Savageton wounded. Scott Davis, the shotgun messenger, A billboard at the edge of GILLETTE touts the This discontinued post office was not named for killed one of the outlaws and fatally wounded city as “America’s Answer to OPEC”. the Indians, as might be expected here in the another, the others escaped. Geologists estimate nearly a trillion tons of heart of Powder River Country. Rather, it was Part of the treasure was recovered. Legend coal lie beneath the region. has it that some of the gold was buried near named for storeowner and postmaster, Bailey here. The little log station was torn down a Savage. few years ago. Wright 37 Food, Lodging Pop. 1,347, Elev. 4,980 34 Food, Lodging Established in 1976, this is a coal-mining town Edgerton that popped up almost overnight during the ener- Pop. 169, Elev. 5,000 Buckhorn gy boom of the 70s. A very modern community, This town was named for being right on the edge A post office close to the South Dakota border, it was named for the first postmaster, R. A. of the great Salt Creek oil field. Buckhorn was named by the first postmaster, Wright, in grand Wyoming tradition. Isaac Sawyer, for the mountain sheep often seen Linch in the area. T The Wright Centennial Museum Named for the Linch family, who settled in the In Wright area, this little town became an oil-drilling site in The mission of the Wright Museum is to interpret the late 1940s. Wyoming Tidbits and preserve the history, culture and development of Southern Campbell County. Here you’ll find Midwest Pop. 408, Elev. 4,851 Native Americans call the mountains of historic mining equipment and supplies, artifacts northaestern Wyoming and western South from the homestead days, World War I memora- Named for the Midwest Oil Company, Midwest Dakota “Paha Sapa” (Black Hills) or Mess bilia and various individual displays, and historic became the first town in the nation to have elec- Sapa (Black Mountains). White people call farm implements and tools. One of the items on tric lighting for a football game in 1925. them the Black Hills. display outside the museum is a 70-ton truck that was used at the Black Thunder Mine southeast of T Salt Creek Museum Wright until the mines began to use the much The Museum’s exhibits cover the Salt Creek oil- larger trucks in use today. ARCO donated this fields from 1889 to present. Exhibits include a 35 No services truck to the museum in 1990. furnished doctor’s office that was in use from 1937 to 1993, a school room, kitchen, dining Hampshire room, barber shop and various household arti- Section 3 Nestled within the Thunder Basin National facts. The Museum’s research facilities include a Grassland, this tiny village has no services. full set of midwest Refining Company Books from 1920-1930, which detail the operations in Salt H Texas Trail—1866-1897 Creek Oil Fields. The Museum is open by 23 mi SW of Newcastle on U.S. Hwy 450 request. Admission by donations only. Following the Civil War, construction of the transcontinental Railroad opened the West, T Pumpkin Buttes ensuring elimination of vast buffalo herds and 30 mi E of Midwest on State Hwy 387 forcing Native American Indians onto reserva- These five flat-topped landmarks rise 1,000 feet tions where the military provided food. above the surrounding plains of southern Leggy Texas Longhorns were moved as far Campbell County. Col. James Sawyer rote in his north as Canada to take advantage of open H # 100 First Truck diary, “Made 13 miles over good roads, to a gap in range grazing and lucrative government con- at Black Thunder Mine Pumpkin Buttes, from whence we looked down tracts. These routes became known collectively Truck #100 - 170 Ton Unit Rig Mark 36 with on an immense valley, if such an abyss of hill tops as the Texas Trail. One entered Wyoming near Dirt Box Commissioned October 13, 1976. can be so called.” The buttes boast hundreds of Cheyenne, headed north past Fort Laramie, Retired June 1, 1989 tipi rings. The area is rich with uranium deposits. Newcastle, Upton, into Moorcroft and then west Material Moved by Truck# 100 to Powder River where it unraveled like a poor Overburden 12,325, 000 BCY-80BCY/Load H 1863 Bozeman Trail piece of rope. Cowhand Bob Fudge recalled a Coal 913,000 Tons-100 Tons/Load State Hwy 387 about 8 mi W of Pine Tree Jct drive in northeast Wyoming. “We had been told Scoria 365,000 BCY-l00 BCY/Load John Bozeman and John Jacobs laid out this route that from the Cheyenne River to Powder River Topsoil 151,000 BCY-75 BCY/Load from Fort Laramie to the Virginia City, Montana there was likely no water, which we surely found Total number of Operating Hrs 36,741 hrs gold fields. In 1865 the Powder River Military out.…The weather was hot and at the end of Total Fuel Consumed 926,000 Gal. Expedition under Gen. P. E. Connor, established the second day the cattle commenced to grind Total Number of Tires Replaced 54 Ft. Connor on the Powder River. In 1866 Forts their teeth in their suffering…their groans were Total Number of Engines Replaced 6 Reno, Phil Kearny, and C. F. Smith were built for enough to raise the hair on a wooden Indian.” Total Number of Miles 650,000 its protection against the Indians who fought bit- Drovers learned the best size herd to move Truck #100 Specifications terly to hold their last hunting grounds. It became a long distance was 2,500 head. The herd Empty Vehicle Weight 194,825 Lbs. known as the Bloody Bozeman. Portugee Phillips stretched out for a mile or more with cowboys Gross Vehicle Weight 534,825 Lbs. rode over this trail to Ft. Laramie to report the placed along the edges depending on their skill. Height 18’ 3” Fetterman Massacre. In 1866 Nelson Story trailed Experienced cowboys rode point to direct the Width 22’ 1” the first herd of Texas longhorns to cross herd. Others rode drag at the back, eating the Net Horsepower 1,600 HP Wyoming along this road. Indian hostiles forced dust of those ahead. The rest were spaced in Fuel Tank Capacity 760 Gallons abandonment of the trail in 1868. between at flank and swing. Herds moved slow- Engine oil Capacity 48 Gallons ly to avoid stampede. Cattle could be moved Hydraulic Oil Capacity 170 Gallons H Salt Creek Oil Field

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 10-15 miles a day, 300-500 miles a month and Jct of State Hwys 387 and 259 at Midwest could gain weight if skillfully managed. Cowboys Stockmen were aware of pools of oil in the were paid at the end of the ride and usually creek bottoms during cattle trailing days. These returned home with the wagon and horses. Wyoming Tidbits oil seeps led to the discovery of Salt Creek, one Some stayed behind and started ranches of of Wyoming’s largest oil fields, nine miles long their own. One cowboy, John B. Kendrick, came The unusual terrain outside Gillette results by five miles wide. to Wyoming with a Texas herd, married the cat- from layers of clinker (burned coal and clay) In 1883, the first claims were filed in the tleman’s daughter, and eventually became that is erosion resistant. 22,000 acre Salt Creek Field. The first strike in Governor. Such is the stuff of legend. the field occurred in 1908 at a depth of 1,050

182 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia antest summer home in America. fires, wasteful lumbering practices, and timber BLACK HILLS Millions of visitors who come to the Black fraud. In 1898, the first commercial timber sale NATIONAL FOREST Hills each year still find it a pleasant place dur- on Federal forested land in the United States ing any season. was authorized in the area of Jim and Estes The Black Hills National Forest is located in The name “Black Hills” comes from the Creeks (near the town of Nemo). Cutting began southwestern South Dakota and northeastern Lakota words Paha Sapa, which mean “hills that around Christmas 1899. In 1905, the Black Hills Wyoming on 1.2 million ponderosa pine-stud- are black.” Seen from a distance, these pine-cov- Forest Reserve was transferred to the Forest ded acres ranging in elevation as high as 7,242 ered hills, rising several thousand feet above the Service, an agency of the U.S. Department of feet. Amid the splendid scenery are 11 reser- surrounding prairie, appear black. The Black Hills Agriculture. Two years later it was renamed the voirs, 30 campgrounds, 32 picnic areas, 2 sce- are in western South Dakota and northeastern Black Hills National Forest. nic byways, 1,300 miles of streams, 13,000 Wyoming, covering an area 125 miles long and The Black Hills National Forest Visitor Center acres of wilderness, 353 miles of trails, and 65 miles wide. They encompass rugged rock at Pactola Reservoir includes exhibits on Black much more. As the forest is managed for multi- formations, canyons and gulches, open grass- Hills natural history and a self-guiding nature ple use, visitors will see mining, logging, cattle land parks, tumbling streams, deep blue lakes, trail. The Visitor Center is open daily from grazing, and summer homes on their travels. and unique caves. Memorial Day to Labor Day. Some of the more spectacular features nes- The Black Hills area has a rich, diverse cul- Congress established the Norbeck Wildlife tled among the hills are seen from the Peter tural heritage. Archaeological evidence suggests Preserve in 1920 for the “protection of game Norbeck National Scenic Byway with its one- the earliest known use of the area occurred animals and birds and to be recognized as a lane tunnels that frame Mount Rushmore and about 10,000 years ago. Later Native breeding place therefore.” The preserve covers curly pig-tail bridges along the Iron Mountain Americans, such as the Arapaho, Cheyenne, about 35,000 acres, 25,000 of which are man- Road and Needles Highway. Breath-taking views Kiowa, and Lakota, came to the Black Hills to aged by the Forest Service. Most of the rest of of waterfalls, sheer cliff walls, springs, a roaring seek visions and to purify themselves. The Black Norbeck is part of Custer State Park. Norbeck is stream, and plenty of wildlife can be enjoyed Hills was also a sanctuary where tribes at war home to a variety of wildlife, including elk, deer, along the Spearfish Canyon National Forest could meet in peace. bighorn sheep, and mountain goats. It also con- Scenic Byway. Exploration of the Black Hills by fur traders tains rugged granite formations, small lakes, sce- Section 3 and trappers occurred in the 1840s. In 1874, nic drives, and hiking trails. Black Hills National Forest: A Brief History General George A. Custer led an Army explo- Black Elk Wilderness is in the center of the For many people, from early Native ration into the area and discovered gold. Norbeck Wildlife Preserve. The 13,605-acre Americans to today’s visitors, the Black Hills has Settlement of the Black Hills rapidly followed the wilderness was named for Black Elk, an Oglala been a special place to come for physical and discovery of gold. The need for wood to build Lakota holy man. Congress established the spiritual renewal. In August 1874, A.B. mines, railroads, towns and for use as a fuel wilderness on December 22, 1980; legislation Donaldson, one of several newspaper corre- increased demand for timber. As settlement in 2002 increased its size by 3,774 acres. spondents with General George A. Custer’s his- continued, agriculture and livestock grazing Harney Peak, at 7,242 feet above sea level, toric Black Hills Expedition, wrote the following: added to the area’s economic diversity. is the highest point in the United States east of The lover of nature could here find his soul’s A series of large forest fires in 1893 focused the Rockies. From a historic lookout tower on delight; the invalid regain his health; the old, be attention on the need to protect the timber the summit, one has a panoramic view of parts rejuvenated; the weary find sweet repose and resource. On February 22, 1897, President of South Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, and invigoration; and all who could come and spend Grover Cleveland established the Black Hills Montana, as well as the granite formations and the heated season here would find it the pleas- Forest Reserve. This land was protected against cliffs of the Black Elk Wilderness. feet. Many wells are still active. Kaycee I Salt Creek was one of the first unitized oil Pop. 249, Elev. 4,660 NCLUDING 25 fields in the United States. Under unitization one Kaycee has a wild history as home to infamous company operates properties for all owners and outlaws. Established as a cowman’s town in more efficient recovery methods can be used. 1900 and named for the brand, KC, owned by Improved practices in Salt Creek have recovered KAYCEE Peters and Alston. Kaycee is probably the small- S many additional milions of barrels of oil. est town to told a Professional Rodeo Cowboy’s HERIDAN Association (PRCA) rodeo and the community Sussex Hwy 38 Food, Lodging pride shows. Kaycee was an important site of

Barber St Hold St

the , one of the most sig- , B T Hoofprints of the Past Museum nificant events in Old West history. The UFFALO

344 Nolan Ave in Kaycee. 738-2381 Bozeman Trail, which linked the Oregon Trail to N

the Montana gold mines, can still be viewed Center St ORTHEAST Ritter Ave Nolan Ave

What began as a Wyoming Centennial project in Campbell Ave. east of town. The infamous “Hole-in-the-Wall”

1990 has grown into a great hands on collection of , D Powder River Country history. The Museum is country and outlaw cave where the legendary outlaws Butch cassidy and the Sundance Kid AYTON headquartered in the oldest standing structure in 1st St

and the rest of the Hole-in-the-wall gang hid A Kaycee, but has since acquired a blacksmith shop, 2nd St

out is just west of town. REA

a country schoolhouse, a homestead cabin, and the , G original twn jail, relocated to be near all the rest.

T Frewen Castle ILLETTE Collections include relevent artifacts from the Near Sussex Map not to scale Johnson County Cattle War, homesteaders and Old Hwy 87 pioneers, Native American battles, and outlaws like Two brothers, Moreton and Richard Frewen, left

England bound for the wilds of Wyoming to , the Wild Bunch and the Hole-in-the-Wall. The quets delivered on horseback. British nobility AND Museum is also the headquarters for area tours. hunt buffalo. Once they spotted the verdant Powder River country, however, they vowed to graced the castle with their presence, and it was Mayoworth stay and invest in cattle. Moreton also invested a magical kingdom. Then, the disastrous winter N This post office was named in 1890 for the post- in a wife, Clara Jerome of New York, aunt of of 1886-87 devastated the cattle herd. Moreton EWCASTLE mistress’s daughter, May Worthington. Winston Churchill. Erecting an exquisite two- suffered financial losses from which he could story log “castle”, the Frewens filled the home not recover. He and his family returned to Sussex with every known luxury. Locals dubbed the England, where he deposited Clara and their Mrs. Davis, the wife of the rancher who ran the home Frewen Castle. English hunting parties three children in an English countryside while first post office here, came from Sussex County, and high teas filled their social calendar, and he travelled extensively. Very little remains of the Delaware. ladies who visited were treated to hothouse bou- Frewen Castle today. www.ultimatewyoming.com 183 In localized parts of the Bighorn Mountains, lion TEAPOT DOME SCANDAL Mammoth Oil Company. The lease had been predation on domestic sheep is a chronic prob- arranged secretively and without competitive lem, thereby necessitating special management bids. Rumors began to fly with the largest gush- strategies and tightly regulated harvest to main- Long before the Watergate Scandal in er of oil that anyone had ever seen in Wyoming. tain a delicate balance between man and the Washington D.C. the Teapot Scandal shocked The “The Teapot began to steep” when cat. the nation. During the administration of Senator John Kendrick of Wyoming heard the Mountain lions once roamed from northern Theodore Roosevelt the nation’s first true inter- rumors about the lack of competitive bidding. He Canada to the southern tip of South America, est in conservation began to emerge. While forced the disclosure that Sinclair’s oil company but along with the colonizing of the Americas national parks and reserves were being devel- had received the sole lease. Hearings on the by European man, came the persecution and oped, locations of vast mineral wealth were put Teapot Dome oil lease began on October 15, extensive habitat changes which greatly reduced under the control of the U.S. government. The 1923 before the Senate Committee on Public the cat’s range. In Wyoming, however, vast, National Oil Reserve Law passed in 1904. The Lands and Surveys. Senator Thomas J. Walsh, a unbroken expanses of habitat still remain. purpose of this law was to provide necessary Democrat from Montana, led the committee’s The Bighorns are home to the big cat. While fuel for the Navy, which had converted from investigation.. Senate hearings in 1923 disclosed seeing one is rare, mere knowledge of their coal to oil around the turn of the century. that Secretary Fall had received over $400,000 in presence adds something special to that place President Taft designated an area of nearly no interest loans from Sinclair, along with other called Wyoming. A place where quality of life is 10,000 acres north of Casper as a Naval gifts. A civil suit filed against the Mammoth Oil oftentimes defined in wildlife terms. Reserve and closed it to private exploration. The Company in 1925 found the practices legal. H Powder River Country area was called Teapot Dome, named for the However, the U.S. Supreme Court upheld a later Kaycee Rest Stop I-25 Exit 254 huge rounded sandstone formation with a col- government appeal and that decision was Twelve thousand years ago, the rich grasslands umn and arch that appeared to have a handle, reversed. The lease was invalidated . and abundant wildlife attracted Native American that has since eroded. The government regained control of the hunters into the area. As the United States In 1920 Warren Harding was elected and reserves in 1928 and Sinclair was ordered to expanded, commerce and conflict occurred. The the policies towards conservation were loos- serve prison time and pay fines to the United Portuguese Houses, east of Kaycee, were part ened and the oil field control was transferred to States for the oil that had been pumped from of the fur trade industry during the early nine- the Department of the Interior from the Teapot Dome. Secretary Fall was convicted of teenth century. The establishment of the Department of the Navy. The Secretary of the fraud and bribery in 1929. He was fined and Bozeman Trail in 1863 brought on warfare Interior, Albert B. Fall, decided that the reserves served prison time for his actions. The extent of between some of the tribes and the United were unnecessary. He leased the Teapot Dome President Harding’s guilt in the scandal has States Army ending with the expulsion of the Reserve to Harry F. Sinclair, an oil tycoon, of the never been fully determined. Native Americans from the area in 1877. Historic sites like and Crazy Woman Section 3 Battlefield reflect this struggle. During the last T Crazy Woman Battlefield died. Mackenzie ordered the village destroyed two decades of the nineteenth century, disputes E of I-25 between Kaycee and Buffalo and 500 ponies were captured. This proved dis- between open range ranchers and homestead- The site of numerous skirmishes between native astrous for the Cheyenne who were left desti- ers resulted in many confrontations, ending with tribes and white travelers, the battlefield is bisect- tute. They found sanctuary with the Sioux in the 1892 Johnson County War fights at KC and ed by a creek of the same name. There are two Montana and South Dakota but by May 1877 TA ranches. varying accounts of how the area received its surrendered. The U.S. government, thus, Today, ranching exists alongside minerals name. One story is that an Indian woman living secured control of the Powder River country. In and recreation industries. The land’s wealth alone and slowly went mad. A second version is 1884 it established the present Northern however, is not infinite. Only through careful that a white traveler’s wife went insane when she Cheyenne reservation in southeast Montana. stewardship can the land be cared for and witnessed Indians scalp her husband. maintained. Wildlife viewing, hunting and fish- H Mountain Lion ing, tours of museums and historic sites, travel- T Outlaw Cave and Canyon Kaycee Rest Stop I-25 Exit 254 ing historic roads, and camping and hiking allow About 20 mi SW of Kaycee Mountain lions, also known as pumas, cougars, all to appreciate Powder River Country. panthers and catamounts, live in the rugged Outlaw Cave is a prehistoric rock shelter and H Killing of Champion and Rae Indian Pictographs can be found nearby. The mountains and foothills of Wyoming. The foothills of the Bighorn Mountains provide some U.S. Hwy 87 S of bridge over Middle Fork of Middle Fork of the Powder River is also viewed the Powder River along this route as well as beautiful panoramas of of the best mountain lion and mule deer habi- About 100 yards west of this point stood the the walls, the canyon at the Middle tat in America. buildings of the Kaycee Ranch, a log cabin and Fork of the Powder River and the Dull Knife Mountain lions prefer rugged canyon coun- a barn. These buildings were surrounded Battlefield. The deep cave was also a popular try in mixed conifer or mountain mahogany before daylight on April 9, 1892, by invading hideout for outlaws including the Wild Bunch cover. Mule deer and elk compose a majority of cattlemen. Occupying the cabin were Nate from the nearby Hole-in-the-Wall hideout. their diet. They also prey on small mammals like jackrabbits, snowshoe hares, porcupines, Champion and Nick Rae, alleged rustler and H The Dull Knife Battle yellow-bellied marmots and other small rodents. two trappers who were captured by the cattle- Kaycee Rest Stop I-25 Exit 254 On November 25th the final battle of the Sioux campaign of 1876 was fought approximately 28 miles west of this point. Colonel Ranald Mackenzie with 750 cavalrymen and 400 Indian scouts and auxiliaries attacked a Northern Cheyenne encampment at dawn. Leaders Dull Knife and were among the Cheyenne. This village consisted of about 175 lodges All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 housing 1400 people, some of whom had par- ticipated in the defeat of Custer at the Battle of the Little Bighorn the previous summer. Cheyenne women and children fled to the sur- rounding mountains, but the men checked the army’s advance during the day-long battle. The army lost 1 officer, 6 soldiers and had more than 20 wounded. At least 25 Cheyenne Coal trains are as common as sagebrush in this part of the state.

184 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia : A MYSTERY IN WYOMING’S BIGHORN MOUNTAINS

As America entered World War II, thou- able to provide information on the crew’s four residents reported a freak snowstorm on that sands of young men from all across the US officers, but nothing was known about the six evening which may have played a role in the were drafted to serve their country. While enlisted men. The Adjutant General of the plane’s crash. Army reports indicate that the some were as young as seventeen and had no Army had to supply this information. Another crew was young and likely inexperienced, and real-world experience under their belts, others problem arose from the flight’s last position the plane was flying too low. When Ronaghan had led full lives complete with careers and report. If the crew had been flying at cruising noticed the looming peak, the engines were families. Once drafted, these men put their speed and was following its flight orders, the put to full throttle. While Ronaghan pulled up personal lives on hold, but some would never plane should have been in Nebraska by mid- the plane’s nose at the last minute, the tail sec- be given the opportunity to return to the pre- night on June 28th. Instead, it appeared that tion could not clear the mountain and the war life they had known. One such fated flight Pilot Ronaghan believed he was flying south of plane ripped in half, explaining the disburse- crew made it only as far as Wyoming’s vast Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains. Unsure where ment of wreckage on both the east and west Cloud Peak Wilderness Area, and the circum- the plane crashed, officials from the Casper sides of the mountain. It appears that the stances surrounding their death remain an Army Air Base searched the central third of plane needed just 50 to 100 feet more to have intriguing mystery with questions that will like- Wyoming from the Idaho border to the South cleared the mountain ridge. No matter what ly never be answered. Dakota border from June 29th to July 5th. caused the plane to crash, it is surmised that After completing their various forms of train- Finding no sign of the plane, the search was the plane simply was not found earlier as its ing, ten men reported for flight duty to the called off and the US War Department notified paint allowed the wreckage to blend in with 318th Bomber Squadron at the Army Air Base in the crew’s families that over a quarter of the the mountain’s giant rocks. Not until the paint Walla Walla, Washington. Under the command US was searched, but the plane was still not began to wear off and the shiny aluminum of pilot 2nd Lieutenant William R. Ronaghan, the found. The War Department also stated that reflected in the sunlight was the plane spotted. crew was reassigned to the Plummer Provisional nothing would really be known about the All ten members of the crew died in the Section 3 Group at Pendleton Army Air Base in Oregon. crew’s fate until a hunter or some passerby tragic event. Some rescuers, however, feel that The Plummer Group was required to have thirty discovered the wreckage. at least one of the crew may have miracu- B-17F Bombers in its unit. Since one of the orig- Since the plane was still missing in August lously survived the crash. During the recovery inal crews was unable to accompany the group, 1944, the Army suggested a search of operation, one well-clothed man was found Ronaghan’s Bomber was ordered to fill the thir- Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains, Absaroka propped next to a rock. Beside him were an tieth spot on June 27th, 1943. In addition to Mountains, and the Bighorn Mountains. Despite open Bible and his open billfold with family being a replacement, Ronaghan’s plane was help from the Utah Mountain and Ski Corp, no members’ pictures lying next to him. Among also missing one of its original ten members. In wreckage was found. When the Army contacted the wreckage were letters to and from sweet- this man’s absence, assistant radio operator forestry officials for each of the three ranges, the hearts and wives of the crewmembers, an Charles E. Newburn, Jr. became the crew’s Bighorn Mountain Forest Supervisor suggested artist’s kit of paints, well-preserved clothing unlucky tenth member. that the only area untouched during the previ- and flight jackets, and several other personal Upon arriving at Pendleton at 4:00 PM on ous year was a five-mile radius around the effects of the crew. Several items are surely June 28th, 1943, Ronaghan and the rest of the Bighorn’s tallest peak, Cloud Peak. Mysteriously, buried underneath the massive boulders. crew were to fly to the Plummer Group’s home the wreckage was still not spotted. Today, much of the wreckage remains, base in Grand Island, Nebraska later that Then, on Sunday, August 12th, 1945, although more and more curious spectators evening. After filling up with fuel and picking up Wyoming cowboys Berl Bader and Albert are carrying off pieces of the plane as memen-

the remaining cargo in Grand Island, the Kirkpatrick noticed something shiny on the sky- tos instead of preserving the site. Dispersed I Plummer Group would leave to participate in line. Climbing up the unnamed mountain ridge across a wide radius are the plane’s engines, NCLUDING the bombing campaign against Nazi Germany. to investigate, the two discovered the wreck- landing gear, pieces of the fuselage, the At 8:52 PM on June 28th, Ronaghan’s B-17F age and the deceased crew. Reporting the plane’s tail section, the horizontal stabilizer, a Flying Fortress was cleared for take-off along wreckage to the nearest Forest Service work radio, pieces of a gun turret, and several other

with one other remaining B-17F from the site, men from Rapid City, South Dakota’s Army massive pieces of twisted aluminum that S Plummer Group. Ordered to fly in formation Air Base and personnel from Colorado’s 2nd smashed into the mountainside. HERIDAN with the other plane, Ronaghan’s flight plan was Air Force Headquarters joined in the recovery In honor of the fallen men, the Sheridan, a four-hour direct flight at 15,000 feet. At 9:00 effort on August 13th. Civilians enjoying Wyoming, War Dads and Auxiliary suggested

PM, Ronaghan and his men departed Pendleton Wyoming’s mountains who encountered the that the Forest Service name the undistin- , B with all of the crew’s records on board. The recovery team were asked to help in transport- guished mountain, Bomber Mountain. UFFALO plane never arrived at its scheduled destination, ing the bodies down the mountain. On August Following this recommendation, the Forest N and the crew was never seen alive again. 17th, 1945, the crewmembers were taken to Service christened the 12,887-foot ridge on ORTHEAST Around midnight on June 28th, Pilot Rapid City to be returned to their families, and August 22nd, 1946. The Sheridan War Dads , D Ronaghan radioed in the plane’s position near on August 18th, the Army began contacting and Auxiliary also placed a plaque recognizing Powder River, Wyoming, forty miles from the families with word that the plane and their the fallen men 1.5 miles southwest of the AYTON

then operating Casper Army Air Base. Following loved ones had finally been found. crash site on the shores of Florence Lake in A REA

this report, nothing further was heard from the The conditions surrounding the crash have late August 1945. The memorial reads: “The , G ten men. On June 29th, Pendleton was notified continued to puzzle Army officials and family following officers and enlisted men of the that the plane was missing, and on July 18th members. Although the plane reported its last United States Army Air Force gave their lives ILLETTE and July 21st, notices were sent to the crew’s position 40 miles northwest of Casper, the while on active duty in flight on or about June next of kin that the plane was missing. No fur- wreckage was found 110 miles north of 28th, 1943. Their bomber crashed on the ,

ther details were released, leaving family mem- Casper, indicating that the plane was either off- crest of the mountain above this place. AND bers to speculate that neither the plane nor course or its navigational instruments were Lieutenants: Leonard H. Phillips, Charles H.

crew had yet been recovered. malfunctioning. This factor alone was signifi- Suppes, William R. Ronaghan, Anthony J. N

As the Army set out to search for the miss- cant in the delay of finding the missing plane. Tilotta; Sergeants: James A. Hinds, Lewis M. EWCASTLE ing aircraft, several problems were encoun- Weather may have also been a factor in the Shepard, Charles E. Newburn, Jr., Lee V. Miller, tered. First, all the crew’s records and flight crash. No moon was visible on the evening of Ferguson T. Bell, Jr., Jake E Penick.” orders were on board the plane. Since the June 28th, 1945, so it is likely that Pilot Despite the mystery surrounding their tragic group had been a replacement crew, little was Ronaghan would not have noticed the deaths, this crew is now forever memorialized in known about the crew’s members. The approaching unnamed mountain peak rising Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains. Their sacrifice to group’s former assignment at Walla Walla was before him until it was too late. Secondly, area their country will always be remembered. www.ultimatewyoming.com 185 men, but were unharmed. Rae appeared and the famous Carhartt work wear, and rugged SCENIC DRIVES was shot down. He was dragged inside the Buck Boots. Check out their $1.00 grocery sec- cabin by Champion, who fought off the attack- tions, or grab yourself an ice cold drink or ers alone until late afternoon, when the cabin snack. Stop into the Espresso Bar. This is Beaver Creek Tour was set afire. He attempted to escape but was Kaycee’s hometown gathering place, which The 50 mile Beaver Creek loop tour is designed shot and killed. Rae died of his wounds during makes it a great place for tips on the area. Open to provide you an opportunity to explore a the forenoon. 7 days a week, year round. Sunday’s hours are diverse and beautiful country. It is a trip through only from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. time and has 26 marked sites of historic, scenic or other interest. 39 No Services Each site has an area where you may pull your vehicle off the road. The drive offers you the Morrissey opportunity to see plenty of wildlife during your This discontinued post office was named for a drive. Better opportunities exist in the early rancher. It has been reported on various occa- morning until about 10 a.m. and in the latter part sions that folks driving through this area see vivid of the afternoon from about 4 p.m. It seems most tumbling lights or Ghost Lights. animals and birds have the sense to stay out of H Robbers’ Roost Station the noonday sun. The slant light accompanying Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Route these hours sculpts and contours the countryside in a most photogenic manner. This light is a About three miles north of Mule Creek Junction pleasant contrast to the starkness of the harsh on U.S. Highway 85. midday sun of the High Plains West. Along the Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage You may begin or end the tour at the Anna F Invasion Bar & Restaurant Route, stories still are told of outlaws and buried Miller Museum—Site 1—on Delaware Avenue. 343 Nolan Ave in Kaycee. 738-2211. gold. But the swaying Concord Even if you don’t take the tour a visit is time well [email protected] stopped rolling in 1887, eleven years after spent and admittance is free. Don’t miss this gem The Invasion Bar and Restaurant is the area’s beginning service to the gold regions of the of a small museum and its displays. The mileage “office” for the locals, day or night. Their motto Black Hills in 1876. count for the tour begins at the intersection of is, “Everyone who comes in as a stranger leaves as Located at the Cheyenne River crossing, U.S. 16 & U.S. 85. a friend.” You can enjoy great family dining in Robbers’ Roost was a station of the Cheyenne To gain the most from this trip, let your imag- their historical building, which was restored in and Black Hills Stage and Express Company. ination roam free—the history of this area is not the 1960’s. The menu offers great, down-home Built in 1877 on a new shortcut, it derived its just the history of man the past few hundred cooking with selections such as real mashed pota- name from the many robberies in the area. The years, that is only part of the story, a small part— crossing was the spot most dreaded by stage Section 3 toes, homemade pies and soups, and daily lunch the real story began 2.5 billion years ago. specials to make your mouth water. Be sure to try driveres; steep river banks slowed the coaches Two and one-half billion years; over one-half their specialties, such as pork fritters or their to a crawl and provided concealment from the Earth’s history. The continent was coming Rueben sandwich. Thursdays are Mexican Night which lurking road agents could watch the together and geological forces were at work form- and Fridays you can enjoy their own country- approach of their intended victims. ing the base from which the Black Hills would style BBQ pork ribs. Be sure to check for nights Station agent at Robber’s Roost was D. finally thrust. Think about the passage of time, with live music and dancing. Boone May, also a deputy U. S. marshall and measured not in years, but in millions of years as a shotgun messenger for the gold-laden the land evolves. Imagine a land covered by treasure coaches from the “Hills”. In advancing and retreating marine and inland seas, September, 1878, south of here, May and eroding and laying down layers of black and gray John Zimmerman surprised desperadoes in sediment destined in time to become today’s coal the act of robbin gthe southbound coach. the and oil. Imagine, as the seas recede for the last outlaws opened fire and one of them, Frank time, the land with its rivers and swamps, its Towle, wa fatally wounded. Outnumbered, dinosaurs and the red and green mud of its flood May and Zimmerman escorted the coach to plains that will become their tomb. Finally, imag- safety and the outlaws made their escape. ine, some 36 million years ago, the Black Hills’ Towle was buried by his companions. May central core of hard metamorphic and igneous later found the grave, removed Towle’s head rock rising from the earth like a blister, pushing and took it to Cheyenne in a sack to try to and tilting all above and around it. claim a reward. What a difference time makes! Today, the The era of the gold rush to the Black Hills Black Hills stand as a green oasis rising from a sea was a flamboyant one, bringing together a of grass, the last bastion of the mixed grass prairie diverse gathering of frontier characters Indians, before it gives way to the short grass prairies to S Kaycee General Store soldiers; miners, stage drivers; tradesmen, the south and west. They are the same hills as that 102 Park Ave at Exit 254 in Kaycee. 738-2500. housewives; gamblers, prostitutes and outlaws. earlier blister—like a lot of us, they are just weath- [email protected] According to legend Robbers’ Roost Station ered and wrinkled by time—some 6,500 feet of was burned by Indians. Kaycee General Store is located right next to the sediment and softer formations having eroded Visitor’s Center with easy access from I-25. Here away to leave today’s diverse and varied landscape. you can find all your grocery needs with meats, Like four ovals, one inside the other, the fresh produce, freshly baked goods, and deli Black Hills cover some 120 miles north to south trays. You can also find great antiques, Wyoming Tidbits and 40 to 50 miles east to west. The hard core of Wyoming made gifts, books, pottery cards, and weather resistant metamorphic and igneous rock The largest coal mine in the USA is Black Indian jewelry. Need something for your out- that started the process is in the center. As you Thunder located near Wright. door activities? Kaycee General Store carries move outward from this center, the land opens to sporting goods including ammo, fishing gear, the Limestone Plateau. Densely covered with pine All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Newcastle Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 34.0 38.4 45.8 57.4 68.2 78.3 87.6 85.6 74.3 61.0 44.9 36.3 59.3 Average Min. Temperature (F) 11.3 14.9 22.0 32.1 42.4 51.6 59.0 57.0 46.6 35.3 22.7 14.4 34.1 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.45 0.47 0.72 1.50 2.45 2.64 2.02 1.66 1.15 0.99 0.59 0.48 15.11 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 6.3 5.6 6.8 3.9 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.2 1.9 5.0 6.2 36.2 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 1

186 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia and aspen, this plateau is composed primarily of a variety of limestones and sandstones laid down JOHNSON COUNTY WAR rustling, more than the homesteaders’ fences, during different geologic periods. The Limestone’s that festered as a sore spot for cattlemen and cliffs tower above the Red Valley. This valley, the their rift with the farmers. The ranchers’ charge product of erosion, is named for its soft red sand- The Johnson County War took place in north- of rustling done by the farmers was probably stones, clays and shales and runs full circle of the ern Wyoming in April 1892, a short and bitter unjust. Most of the farmers were hardworking Black Hills. Almost devoid of trees, except where page in United States history. Hollywood has folk who just wanted to make an honest living. streams follow its course, the Red Valley’s grass- immortalized the event, but the real facts are Yep, it’s possible though, that they might have lands have been valued by both man and beast found in the Big Horn Mountain country. Back needed a cow now and then. for their forage. in 1868 when Wyoming became a territory in The pot was boiling in 1889 when a ranch- The outer edge of the Black Hills is marked 1868, and later, a state in 1890. It was settled er, A. J. Bothwell, wanted to take over some by the Hogback. Like a breastwork, the Hogback with peace loving, honest and God-fearing land that belonged to James Averill, a saloon protects the Hills from intrusion by making entry people. This didn’t stop a fierce battle to owner. Averill lived on the land with a prostitute, difficult. An erosion resistant sandstone ridge cov- break in 1892 between the cattlemen and Ella Watson, who was alleged to frequently ered by Ponderosa Pine, the Hogback rises from the homesteaders. receive payment in stolen cattle. James Averill the surrounding shale plains on an incline, and Cattlemen came in first, setting up ranches, accused Bothwell of being a land grabber. then, abruptly and at times precipitously, drops to and becoming quite wealthy in the process. Bothwell accused Averill of rustling cattle. Averill the Red Valley’s floor. The only gaps in this almost The educated entrepreneurs from the East as and Watson were taken by force and hanged continuous circle are those created by major well as those from England were drawn to the without trial. The men who lynched them were streams as they leave the Black Hills for the sur- promises of the territory. Most of the land was not brought to trial either. rounding prairie. Your trip will cover portions of free government land and cattle were not The accusations exploded in 1892 when the Red Valley and the Hogback. fenced in but allowed to graze freely. The cat- Wyoming cattlemen attempted to sort out the Newcastle sits tucked into the outer edge of tlemen formed the Wyoming Stock Growers’ rustlers and were sponsored by some of the the Hogback on dark gray Belle Fourche shale Association. When Wyoming became a State in most powerful men in the state and the Union dating from the upper part of the Cretaceous 1890, the Governor joined this association Pacific Railroad. The railroad people offered to Period (65–140 million years ago). This was the adding to its power. transport a load of gunmen up from Texas. time when South America and Africa separated, Homesteaders began to move in along the These regulators attacked the KC Ranch, killing Section 3 the dinosaurs and large reptiles reached their Bozeman and Oregon Trails in the late 1880s two alleged rustlers, Nathan Champion and peak and then disappeared, and flowering plants claiming the land. The cattlemen accused the Nick Ray. They then headed for Buffalo, to the and modern trees began their development. homesteaders of taking their watering holes cattlemen friendly TA Ranch. Newcastle owes its existence and economic well- and rustling their cattle which was a hanging In the meantime, Sheriff Angus had been being to the area’s geology. The discovery of coal offense. The homesteaders said they had not tipped off and the regulators found themselves in a Hogback canyon brought the Burlington & rustled the cattle and had the support and pro- under attack. The mission backfired and two of Missouri River Railroad to the area and, in 1889, tection of Sheriff ‘Red’ Angus. the Texans were killed. Governor, Amos W. the town was built where the spur from the mine The 1880s eventually brought hardships Barber, supporter of the regulators, interceded met the main track. Today, the area’s geologic her- for everyone. Cattlemen did not keep an accu- and cabled President Harrison for help. Army itage still provides the basis for the area’s econo- rate count of their herds and this would have troops rescued the Texas invaders and at the my: coal, oil, bentonite (a clay formed from disastrous results after the blizzards of 1886- trial all were released under the pretense that volcanic ash and found in everything from face 87, which just wouldn’t stop. The cattlemen the county was not able to pay for their keep. powder to kitty litter), timber, rich farming land who survived these years bitterly resented the After receiving pay from the cattlemen they and grass for grazing. farmers who had supposedly taken over their skipped back to Texas. land. The losses and lack of records caused Governor Barber and Senators Carey and 1. Anna Miller Museum—401 Delaware many of the ranchers to go bankrupt, thus Warren, were later implicated as supporters of The Anna Miller Museum is located in an old leaving more land for the taking. Every time a the raid. The invasion by the regulators had I

National Guard cavalry barn built by the WPA in farmer claimed land, especially near a water been a direct violation of the Wyoming State NCLUDING the 1930s. Constructed of native sandstone quar- hole, and often fencing it off, the cattlemen’s Constitution. Cattlemen remained, often living ried from the Hogback, the building was to be anger and resentment grew. The fences and in fear of retribution, and the end of free range part of a larger complex for Newcastle’s horse cav- the ownership of water holes led to two fierce- ranching. The Panic of 1893 followed and the alry unit. The existing native stone armory down- ly diverse factions. Union Pacific Railroad folded. The fences con- S

town housed the adminstrative offices, arms It was actually the accusations of cattle tinued to go up. HERIDAN room, an indoor range and dismounted drill area. This building was to provide living quarters for tor’s office, Indian artifacts and a fossil collection will be on your left as you cross the junction of the full-time stable sergeant, a feed room and which includes a Pachycephalosaurus skull cap U.S. 16 & U.S. 85.) This fountain draws its water stalls for the horses, while immediately to the east and sections of both Tyrannosaurus Rex and from a well drilled 2,700 feet into the Paha Sapa , B and attached to it, there was to be a large indoor UFFALO

Triceratops, to name but a few of its exhibits. On or Madison Limestone formation of the lower N riding hall. Construction on the riding hall pro-

the museum’s grounds, you will find also a home- Carboniferous Period (280-345 million years ORTHEAST gressed to a point where the walls where up steader’s cabin, an early country school and the ago). The water has been carbon dated as being about halfway when Pearl Harbor occurred. With oldest standing building in the Black Hills—the about 2,500 years old. It has its source in the , D the outbreak of war, construction ceased, and the

Jenney Stockade—as well as a Burlington snow and rain that fell in the Big Horn Mountains AYTON uncompleted riding hall was torn down after the Northern train caboose. some 150 miles to the west, or possibly even far- war. The building has been enrolled in the reg- Site 2-The Visitors Center-is located approxi- ther north in Canada. The fountain requires no A istry of National Historic Places. REA mately 4 blocks east of the museum on U.S. pump and flows to the surface under 120 pounds , G The Anna Miller Museum’s varied and diverse 16/Washington Boulevard. of pressure. Newcastle has drilled four of these ILLETTE collection makes description difficult, but its col- wells to supply its needs and others have been lection captures the history of the area and pro- 2. Visitor Center—U.S. Hwy 16 drilled either privately, or by water districts to vides an excellent background for your trip. The If you look to the east from the parking lot of provide service to outlying areas. museum contains Cambria mining camp displays, , the Visitors Center you can see a fountain spray- If you have not been born in the West, or AND period rooms, a country store and early day doc- ing water into the air. (As you drive to Site 3 it lived here, you might not understand the preoccu- N

Kaycee EWCASTLE Jan Feb March April May June July Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Annual Average Max. Temperature (F) 37.4 41.7 48.1 57.8 67.9 78.8 87.9 86.7 75.6 63.1 47.6 39.7 61.0 Average Min. Temperature (F) 6.6 12.6 19.7 28.3 38.2 46.4 52.3 50.1 39.9 29.3 17.5 9.5 29.2 Average Total Precipitation (in.) 0.41 0.37 0.70 1.47 2.26 2.09 1.14 0.82 1.05 1.00 0.52 0.38 12.21 Average Total SnowFall (in.) 6.7 6.3 7.3 6.7 1.3 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.4 2.4 5.6 6.6 43.3 Average Snow Depth (in.) 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 www.ultimatewyoming.com 187 pation with water, or its importance to the resi- salts. Mr. Tubb’s public privy was very busy; as ‘putrified’ birds sang ‘putrified’ songs.” Finding dents here. The annual moisture in this area is 12 was one of his other businesses—hauling water such “putrifaction” caused Sublette no harm, but to 15 inches. A desert is defined as an area that from Beaver Creek and selling it for fifty cents a Smith ended up losing an ear when a grizzly receives 12 inches or less. The area is certainly barrel. However, lousy water didn’t stop the charged him and ripped it off. One story has arid and an adequate supply of water touches “crick” from being used for bathing. Smith inventing the phrase, ‘Well, don’t just stand every aspect of the lives and livelihoods of the With as many men as there were, the “girls” there, do something,” after his companions killed people who live here. As you drive this country had followed. One young resident, whose family the bear. According to the story, Smith then pro- you will notice almost every little draw with any lived on the respectable west bank of the creek, ceeded to take a hand in sewing his chewed up drainage whatsoever is the proud possessor of an recalled that there were at least 30 to 40 sporting skin back on. earthen dam to catch whatever bounty nature ladies hanging around the saloons. These ladies There were other scientific and military expe- sends its way. You might also notice the number of used the crick to bathe, and more than one young ditions to the Black Hills that preceded or fol- pickup trucks with fiberglass tanks in their beds. man received part of his education doing a little lowed Warren’s of 1857; however, none of these They belong to individuals who have found that spying. That probably didn’t bother the “soiled organized expeditions appear to have ventured far special place to live, but which is without water. doves” much; what bothered them was when into this area until Custer’s in 1874 which passed They are willing to put up with the inconvenience some young cowboy might happen on them, steal just north of this loop. The 1875 Jenney expedi- of hauling water—water to drink, with which to their clothes with great glee and leave them to tion was organized specifically to check Custer’s cook and to wash—in order to live in this special find their way back to town dressed in a sage- report and determine as accurately as possible place. It says something about their character. brush chemise. how much gold there was in the Black Hills. The They are the true inheritors of the spirit shown by When the railroad changed its route and it party of geologists, topographers, astronomers, the early pioneers of Newcastle and the area. was time to move, Tubb Town moved. And boy and “practical” miners, spent 5 months in the When the town was founded there was no did it move! In no way was a little thing like Hills protected by Lt. Col. Dodge’s 400 infantry- water on the site. Water was brought in barrels moving allowed to interfere with business. One men. They didn’t find much gold—the miners from a spring 3 miles up in Cambria Canyon or saloon owner just jacked up his bar, loaded it on accomplished that as they violated the treaty with from Beaver Creek about 6 miles away. As an a wagon, and sold drinks all the way to the Indians and its off-limits rules and sneaked early resident wrote many years later, “A five gal- Newcastle. Didn’t break a glass or spill a drop. into the Hills in ever increasing numbers. lon square tin kerosene can filled with water cost On arrival, he set the bar on the ground, leveled Colonel Dodge’s own words describe best you fifty cents. But who cared about water, as it and built the new building around it. What one what the expedition felt and found when they very few drank water, and it was not then neces- would call real customer oriented service. reached the site of Warren’s corral built some 18 sary to take a bath every morning. Water was all The boisterous crowd from Tubb Town didn’t years earlier; which according to another report right to wash dishes in, and for the ‘Milk Man’ to seem to realize that they had been sitting on oil. had been occupied, at least for a time in the six- mix with the cows’ milk to make it go to more Oil in sands that reached close to the surface. ties, by a trading post run by one Nick Janis: satisfied customers.” They must not have been paying attention. Ten “As we go up the Beaver the country gets in Now look south to the ridge with the orange years earlier in 1878 oil had been found in the every way worse. A dreary, monotonous, alkaline Section 3 water tank. (By the way, the colors, black and area, “bubbling,” or at least seeping, from a spring plain, no timber except an occasional scrubby orange, are the school’s colors and their teams are or outcropping. On this news, many miners from cotton-wood. The water, acrid and bitter, irritat- known as the Dogies.) There you see the light the hills flocked in and filed their claims. For a ing to the mouth, throat, and alimentary canal, colored Pierre shale of the Upper Cretaceous. time claims cabins dotted the landscape to the stands in long, narrow, and deep pools, in which This is truly an important shale as it possesses the south and west. The boom didn’t last, though there seems no life, either animal or vegetable. ability when wet to mire your vehicle like you some continued to seek their riches in black gold. Every man was more or less affected, and all would not believe—the plastic clays we know as These oil seeps were not infrequent. It was a were glad to turn our faces to what seems a gap “gumbo” weather from it. Gumbo can pack your common practice where one existed to dig a hole in the apparently impenetrable mass of moun- fender wells so tightly your wheels won’t move, and let the oil and water accumulate. The sand tains to the north. or you might slip and slide so badly, even with a filtered green oil rose to the top and when it was “A few hours brought us to this gorge, when four-wheel drive vehicle, that you are positive you about three or four inches deep it was skimmed we went into camp in a spot which, after our try- are driving on grease. This little byproduct of the off and filtered through cheese cloth. Mixed with ing journey over the horrible alkaline desert, Pierre is the reason we suggest that when you flour the oil made a very satisfactory axle grease. seemed a paradise. “A lovely stream, of apparent- drive the country roads, you stick to the gravel. It was also used to treat animal cuts and wounds. ly pure water, rushed swiftly from its mountain From here to Site 5 watch for Mule (Black- In 1966 a local resident decided to see if he home, through a grassy mead, smooth as a lawn, tailed) deer in the open Ponderosa Pine habitat. could dig an oil well by hand. It took about three green as emerald, and carpeted with flowers of Your next site, Site 3, is Tubb Town-Field City. weeks of hard pick and shovel work with a bit of every hue. Overhanging the stream, and dotted It is on the left of U.S. 16 going east, 3 miles from dynamite, but 21 feet down he found oil. Enough singly or in clumps about the lawn were hun- the Junction of U.S. 16 & U.S. 85. oil accumulates to pump to the surface with an dreds of box-elder, the most graceful and pictur- old-fashion hand pump. If you look east across esque of plains trees. Just at the entrance of a the creek (this was the disreputable side of Tubb narrow canon, the mountains to the east and west Town), you will see the site of that hand dug oil tower to the height of from one thousand to fif- Wyoming Tidbits well. teen hundred feet, their summits and the deep Site 4—Jenney Stockade—is located 1.0 miles gorges scored in their sides clothed with dark The largest coal mine in the USA is Black to the east on the right side of the highway. forests of pine. Thunder located near Wright. “The brook was named Spaulding’s Creek. 4. Jenney Stockade—LAK Ranch The spot, Camp Jenney. It is one of the most Lt. Warren’s expedition wasn’t the first entry beautiful camps I ever saw.” 3. Tubb Town—Field City into the southern Black Hills by whites. The first The creek was named, no doubt, after Capt. The state’s site marker provides the broad out- recorded entry was by a party of twelve men Spaulding of Dodge’s command. You can imagine line of the short, but notorious history of “Satan’s under the command of famed mountain man it was his reward for having led the scouting Toadstool of Prairie Dog Flats,” as Tubb Town was Jedediah Smith who crossed the Cheyenne River party which brought them to this break in the sometimes called. It was a rowdy town located near the mouth of Beaver Creek in 1823. [We hills and decent water. astride Salt Creek on the Custer-Belle Fourche need to clarify a point. The Beaver Creek you The Jenney Party built a stockade on the east Trail. As such, it saw its share of transients, to travel today is properly Stockade Beaver. It flows bank of Beaver Creek where Warren’s corrals had include Calamity Jane. Calamity came to town south and west into the Beaver Creek mentioned All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 been, just about where you see today’s ranch build- one day driving an ox team, stopped in a store, here.] The party entered the Hills through the ings. The stockade was some 85 feet wide and 122 saw a bolt of bright pink, silk cloth. She bought Buffalo Gap and then crossed the southern part of feet long. Two cabins were built within it to store 15 yards to have a wrapper made with Watteau the Hills on their way west. Given the terrain, it is provisions. One of these cabins is the same cabin Pleats on the back. Calamity Jane? It is an eyewit- logical to assume they passed nearby while mov- you had the opportunity to see at the Anna Miller ness account. ing west. While in the Hills, a member of the Museum. As the expedition moved on, the stock- Salt Creek’s water wasn’t fit to drink in 1888. party, Bill Sublette, also to gain fame as a moun- ade and its remaining provisions were left in the Still isn’t. In fact, many argued that it was com- tain man, found, or so it was reported, a “’putri- care of one man and served as a stopping place for posed of equal parts water, alkali and Epsom fied’ forest with ‘putrified’ trees on which miners and others headed for the Black Hills.

188 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia In June of 1877, the stockade became a station rain or hail. In winter, while warmer than the advent of modern forest and fire management for the Cheyenne and Black Hills Stage Company open plains, the snow could be deep, requiring practices. The pipe on the site marker will locate after it changed its route to Deadwood from the that the coaches be equipped with runners. In Frannie Peak for you. Red Canyon gap in the Hogback to the shorter fact, it was entirely possible that there might be There are no natural lakes in the Black Hills. one provided by the Beaver Creek gap. The stock- snow any month of the year. Today’s lakes are manmade and were built, with ade remained a stage stop until October 1878 What wasn’t different was the food at those few exceptions, to provide water for the use of when a new, much smoother and easier route well stops which served it and not all did. At some towns or crop irrigation. Any recreational use to the east was opened. Passengers were pleased stops the food rated praise, but at most the fare was considered secondary, the LAK Lake is no with the change. The new route avoided the Hills consisted of fried salt pork, soda biscuits or hard exception. Built and owned by the ranch, the entirely and they would not be “all shook up” as tack and coffee “thick enough to float worn-out present dam, constructed in the 1940s, replaced they had been before, particularly on that part of horses shoes.” Just the meal to settle a queasy the original smaller dam. It serves to store and the trail north of Jenney Stockade. stomach on a coach which swayed enough on its divert water to ditches which carry it to the fields J. C. Spencer and two other men bought the leather slings to induce sea sickness. As you drive below the ranch. stockade and the land around it in the summer of this road, look off to the sides and imagine what Each owner of the ranch has been most gra- 1877. That same winter, three Chicago investors it would be like in a car, for all its power and cious and opened the lake for fishing and other put up money for Spencer to buy cattle in Texas modern suspension system, let alone in a stage recreation. In 1994 a unique private, public and and drive them north to the ranch. It was from coach. civic cooperative development effort was under- their names—Lake, Allerton and King—the ranch Costing about $1,300 apiece, the great coach- taken when the ranch owners, the Wyoming received its name. The cabin served as the LAK’s es were eight and a half feet long and eight feet Game and Fish Commission, the Weston County headquarters until 1924 when a new ranch house tall. They required a high degree of skill on the Commissioners and Newcastle’s Cambria Lions was built. A few years later the cabin, minus eight part of their tough and resilient drivers in order Club joined to improve and expand the lake’s rooms that had been added over the years, was to handle three sets of reins in one hand and a recreational opportunities. If you wish to use the dismantled and moved to Newcastle. whip in the other. area, all that is asked is that you stop at the Spencer continued to operate the ranch until Site 6—Frannie Peak-LAK Lake—is located 0.9 ranch, the Visitors Center or Crum’s in Newcastle 1914 when his health failed and he was forced to miles to the north on the gravel Beaver Creek Road. and ask for a permit. No charge. sell. Throughout the years he had been a pio- Enjoy the lake and its opportunities, but neer—one of the first to bring ranching to the please don’t abuse the area. That’s true for all the Section 3 Black Hills and northeastern Wyoming, in stock- land along this trip. It is private land. Enjoy it, ing purebred Hereford cattle and in irrigating and Wyoming Tidbits but don’t leave your mark on it. A caution is well raising alfalfa for hay. Those hay fields, the same worth making at this point: The roads aren’t fields as Colonel Dodge’s grassy mead, are still in The country’s first artificially lit football game wide, but they are wide enough if you keep to use as you can see, thriving on the rich alluvial was in Midwest in 1925. your side of the road. Be particularly careful on soil washed from the canyon and on Beaver the curves and hills. Creek’s plentiful water. Today, the well-run ranch Around the lake, watch for waterfowl and not only raises cattle, but also feeds them in its water birds such as the Mallard Duck, Canada lots. The aroma can be “interesting,” but it is a 6. Frannie Peak-LAK Lake Goose, Phalaropes (shore birds), the Spotted small price to pay for a good steak. You should take a little time at this location. Sandpiper and, occasionally, the Common Loon, Site 5—Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage—is locat- You are in the Red Valley, hemmed by the 360 as well as the Red-winged blackbird. Raptors to ed 0.8 mile to the east on the left side of the road. million year old Devonian limestone cliffs of the watch for include the Osprey and the Red-tailed Plateau to the east and the 160 or so million years Hawk in summer and the Bald Eagle in winter. 5. Cheyenne-Deadwood Stage old Jurassic sandstone walls of the Hogback to During the next few stops, watch for Passerines As the Cheyenne-Deadwood stage passed the west. Looking the way you came, you see the (perching birds) and song birds like the Wood through this gap in the Hogback, it entered a new Beaver Creek gap, a gate standing open to the Thrush, Yellow Warbler, Common Yellowthroat in world, an entirely different world from the one High Plains. In the other direction, drawing you the shrubs and trees along the creek, to name but I characterizing the trip so far from Cheyenne. Up on to the higher hills, lies a thin green line of a few. Also, begin to watch for White-tailed deer NCLUDING to this point on the average fifty to fifty-two hour well-watered rich alluvial soil bounded by arid along the brushy streamside and Mule (Black- trip to Deadwood, the passengers in the big red, slopes covered with Rabbit Bush, Rocky tailed) deer in the higher open country. yellow-wheeled Concord coaches with their six Mountain Juniper and Mountain Mahogany. Site 7—Sawmills—is located 2.3 miles to the horse teams had been subjected in summer to The Beaver Creek gap attracted more than north on the right. S

sun and wind, the possibility of hail, and, if it miners and stage lines as a route into and out of HERIDAN rained, swollen creeks and that ever present the Hills. There is evidence that man has used 7. Sweet Sawmill gumbo. In winter, it was cold, with plenty of this area for more than 12,000 years. Recent While the buildings at this location are of snow and wind. It could be bitterly cold, 20, 30, archaeological excavations just to the east of the recent vintage, there has been a ranch here since maybe 40 or more below zero, with blinding bliz- gap have placed man in the Black Hills around sometime before 1881 when the Stockade Ranch , B zards that would white-out the countryside and 12,000 years ago. Rock art in the area has been or Stockade Beaver Ranch was started along the UFFALO pile drifts high. dated at about 11,500 years old. old Cheyenne to Deadwood stage trail. N If it wasn’t the weather, it was road agents Imagine these early men as they lived and The Stockade Ranch was the location of one ORTHEAST between Jenney Stockade and the Hat Creek walked this area, seeking shelter in its canyons of the earliest saw mills in the area. With the , D Station farther south. After 1876 the Indians were from the weather and the seasons as they bore and abundance of timber and a growing demand for not the trouble they had been; but, road agents raised their children. There is evidence they quar- lumber, sawmills flourished wherever strong AYTON seemed to hit this section of the line with regular- ried hard flints from outcroppings in the area to creeks flowed. Most of the lumber used in build- A ity, a great deal of impunity and a lot of gall. In make tools for daily living and the weapons used ing Tubb Town came from this area and much of REA , G fact, they once wrote a letter asking the stage to kill the big horned bison, elk and other large it came from the Hanson, Davis and Sweet company to send them a set of gold scales. In animals during their communal hunts. It is not sawmill which was in operation in 1888. ILLETTE their letter they said, “dividing dust with a spoon difficult to imagine them fishing the creeks and The mill was located on the creek and the is not always satisfactory.” More than once the drinking from the valley’s springs as they gathered creek powered its great wooden water wheel. The coaches had to be escorted by the cavalry. The the abundant fruits, berries and other plants that logs were cut high in the hills and reached the , AND passengers received all this for a fare which could be easily found then as they can be now. valley floor by way of dry flumes (chutes). The ranged from $30 for first class to $10 for third. These early men must have climbed and used steepness of the grade caused the logs to gain From this point on water was more plentiful, Frannie Peak as a lookout as did Dr. V.T. such speed in their descent they would be on fire N EWCASTLE but the ride was rougher, the land rose and fell McGillicuddy, a topographer with the Jenney when they reached the bottom, where workers dramatically as the trail followed the Red Valley party. He went up to get a better look at the doused them with water to put the fire out. That and crossed the Limestone Plateau. Stations were countryside and he probably had a better view is, according to one story. Others say they were closer together as the horses needed to be than you would if you climbed it today. The Black just too hot to handle and needed the water to changed more frequently. There wasn’t as much Hills were not as forested then as they are now— cool them down. You can see evidence of that wind and in summer it was cooler, but there were wildfires kept them thinned and open. The lush, flume if you look through the pipe attached to swift, sudden thunder storms and cloudbursts of densely forested hills we see today came with the the site marker. The mill itself was located on the www.ultimatewyoming.com 189 creek. The mill’s location is also identified by a thousand feet, their tops covered with the dark, Brown trout. At any one time, about 20,000 to pipe on the site marker. thick growth of pine which gives the name ‘Black’ 150,000 are in residence. Of course, any beyond Along with dimension lumber, the mill to the ‘Hills.’ The face of these ranges shows near 25,000 are small fry. Some end up stocking undoubtedly produced wooden lath, those thin their tops a stratum of several hundred feet of red streams, some end up on a dinner plate and some wood strips used to hold plaster to the walls in the sandstone; below this, a belt of very uniform thick- stick around to make sure that there are more days before metal lath or sheetrock. As you drove ness of white limestone; below this, a greenish for- next year. here, you probably didn’t notice a large hole on the mation, which the geologists pronounce ‘Jurassic;’ The spring is a strong one, a million and a right hand side of the road. It is all that remains of near the bottom are beds of great thickness, of a half gallons of pure mountain water per day. Its a kiln where the area’s limestone was burned to stiff red clay; and against the base of these are temperature is about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The produce the lime used in mixing plaster. immense dirty-white beds of gypsum; below all source of this water is the same as that of the This lime also had a mundane, but important, this is the green valley, graceful with trees and fountain in Newcastle—the Paha Sapa (Madison) daily use: It was a common practice for every shrubbery. The combination and variety of colors, Formation. Here, however, the formation has home or business to keep a small bucket of lime the towering precipices and broken crags, make a been thrust far closer to the surface of the handy in their outhouse. Thoughtful users would picture as delightful to the eye as may be found.” Limestone Plateau and, as you may have noticed throw a scoopfull down the seat hole to speed Site 9—Grist Mill—is located 0.6 of a mile as you drove the road, many springs exist. It is decomposition and control odors. north on the right. their flow which makes Beaver Creek the strong Between here and Site 11 drive slowly and stream it is. Farther up the road, particularly at watch for wildlife. Watch the meadows. Any 9. Harper Grist Mill the point where the road crosses Beaver Creek turkeys you see are not some farmer’s flock—they Up until the 1940s when it was torn down, a there is no water. The natural flow of the creek are wild. In the spring, you might just see them large two storied, rather plain Victorian building disappears, going underground to reappear later. strutting and displaying. During the winter, Bald occupied the area next to the old shed which This is not an unusual occurrence in the Black Eagles may be observed along the creek, as can leans against the rock. The shed was the ranch’s Hills given its geology. The entrance to the hatch- other raptors in the summer. The Great Blue blacksmith shop and the larger building was used ery is 0.2 of a mile from here. If the gate is open, Heron is also around in the summer, drawn no to house the hired hands working on the place. you are welcome to drive in and see some very doubt by the fish hatchery. When the building was built is unknown, but the nice trout. Site 8—Sweet School—is located one mile main ranch house across the road did have a par- Site 11—Wooden Waterline—is 1.0 miles north on the right. lor, dining room and three bedrooms added to north on the right. what had been a kitchen in 1902. 8. Sweet School This building was more than a little unique. It 11. Wooden Waterline The memories stirred by this dying building had a water wheel under the first floor—a wheel For many years Newcastle received part of its are those of isolated rural communities and which reflected ingenuity, constructed as it was water supply through a wooden waterline that country schools. The building is actually two from the wheel of a horsedrawn hay mowing had its start some twelve miles north of here on buildings. On the right is the original building machine with cups attached. Water to move the the EVA Ranch. Built in 1920, the line continued

Section 3 on the site, the Sweet School. In the 1940s, the wheel and drive the grinders of its attached grist in use until the early 1950s when Newcastle men of the Beaver Creek community moved the mill came through a wooden flume from a spring drilled its wells into the Paha Sapa Formation. LAK School eight miles and built a kitchen located higher on the hill and some distance Constructed of oak planks and bound with spi- between the two buildings so it could serve as a away. The spring is still there, but its water is rals of heavy gauge wire, the line crossed hill and community center, as well as a school. For many diverted and now used for irrigation of fields dale. You can still see from here where part of who drive by today, the building sparks pleasant down the creek. that line ran if you look through the pipe on the memories of parties, dances, meetings, The ranch was blessed with springs, as were sign. You can only marvel at the skill of the sur- romance—to say nothing of the “readin’, writin’ many ranches along Beaver Creek. They provided veyor who laid out the route for this gravity fed and ‘rithmetic” of one room schools with as good water for livestock and gardens, but they also system unaided by modern maps or today’s satel- many as 32 students in eight grades. created swamps and a bumper crop of brush that lite surveying technology. The Sweet School remained open until 1959. the rancher burnt out each year. It took (and still Relics of the line continue to exist. At one After that, students were bussed to Newcastle. takes) a lot of hard work and a great deal of sweat spot there is a manhole cover that even today Community activities continued, but became to get ahead of Mother Nature to create and keep when lifted reveals cold, clear water rushing fewer, until they finally died out in the 1970s— up the meadows you see along the creek today. through the pipe. Within hangs an old tin dipper, improved roads, the loss of activities associated It would be an odd ranch that didn’t have a a clear invitation to drink. But, as good and plen- with country schools, off-ranch jobs all took their large garden to provide for its own needs— tiful as the water was, the line was not without its toll and changed the fabric of rural community life. enough to eat fresh in season and enough to can troubles. Simply, it was a maintenance nightmare While one of the earlier schools in the coun- or store for the long winter months. The soil and and more than one Newcastle resident remembers ty, the Sweet School was not the oldest; that water on Beaver Creek were productive and some water restrictions being enforced because the line honor went to the Beaver Creek School located early ranchers, in addition to their cattle, carried was down. One of the jokes often repeated ran, up the road. It opened in 1888 with six or eight on market garden operations to supply the area’s “How do you fix a leak in a wooden water line?” books with the floor serving as its blackboard. In growing needs. Answer: “Just dump a couple of gunny sacks of the early years, country school teachers usually On your way to the next site, take note of the sawdust into the line and pray some of it will found their room and board with a nearby fami- yellow Victorian house 0.6 of a mile up the road. catch in the holes, swell and stop the leak.” ly. Like the students, they sometimes had a ways The owner of this ranch purchased it in 1883, Even after drilling its wells, Newcastle did not to go by foot or horseback to the school. In win- but didn’t move on to it until 1900. He replaced relinquish its water rights to this source until ter, it was not at all unusual to find the inside the original log cabin with this house in 1904. sometime in the 1970s. It did so then only after walls of the school covered with frost when they Along its south side there was a long utility room some considerable thought and discussion. That arrived in the morning. through which ran a very small stream fed by a it took some twenty years is not surprising when The Sweet School wasn’t always located here. spring up the hill. This boxed-in stream served as you consider how water is valued in this country. The moving of a school building was not at all the family’s refrigerator, keeping milk and other As you leave this stop begin to watch for elk. uncommon. School board politics, large families perishables cool and unspoiled. Undoubtedly, the A small herd resides in the area and you just moving in or out, a neighborhood feud, or a land family also had an ice house where ice for warm might see them on the high meadows early in the dispute (whatever, sometimes it didn’t take much) weather use was kept. This ice was cut in winter morning or later in the afternoon or evening. and the school would be on the road again. The from ponds and stored under sawdust for insula- Site 12—Thomson Canyon—is 1.7 miles up building would be jacked up, put on log rollers tion. The ice lasted the summer. This system con- the road on the left. All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 or skids and hauled off to its new location by a tinued in use until the late 1940s when rural team of 8 to 10 horses. electrification was undertaken seriously. 12. Thomson Canyon If you look 360 degrees you might conclude Site 10—Fish Hatchery—is located 1.2 miles The Thomson Ranch homesteaded by Ed Colonel Dodge was describing the view from this north on the left. Thomson was located on the left side of the road. spot when he wrote: The canyon is off to the right. His grandson, “The scenery is very grand and beautiful. The 10. Fish Hatchery Keith, distinguished himself in World War II and valley, owing to the number of streams, is a rich The Cedar Ridge Hatchery takes advantage of was later elected to serve Wyoming in both the green. On each side rise ranges from one to two spring water to raise Rainbow, Brook and German U.S. House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate.

190 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Ed and his brother Dan came by rail to up his rifle and told Rose, “I’m going up in the everywhere, Hank had a mother-in-law. Mrs. Deadwood in 1886 and then trailed their live- canyon and try to get my twenty-second bear.” Colclosure spent several years with Hank and stock here to homestead. They stayed the first Hank didn’t come home that night. Worried, Rose at the saw mill down in the canyon. She dis- winter in the old Beaver Creek stage station Rose kept a light burning all night. When morn- liked the canyon passionately—she felt closed in. which was located up the road from here near the ing came, alone and unarmed, she set out to find Quite ill her last winter, she made it very clear EVA ranch. Like most stations built to do no him. She followed his tracks in the snow for before she died that she didn’t want to be buried more than accommodate the changing of horses, about three miles until they went into the brush. in the canyon. It is reported she said, “Please it probably wasn’t much more than a stable with a Another half mile on the trail she found him. bury me up on the ridge where I can see out.” room for the stock tender. Seeing he was dead, Rose removed her apron and They honored her wish. The Winter of 1886-1887 was a tough one, a covered his face. She also must have stretched As you drive to the next stop, Site 14—Mallo real tough one. One cattle company out on the him out on his back and folded his hands on his Road—3.4 miles up the road, watch the fields for open plains lost 93,000 head of cattle that winter. breast, as that is how the men later found him. Mule deer and predators like the Coyote and the It was little better for the two Thomson families. On foot, she worked her way 6 miles down Red Fox and raptors like the Swainson’s and the They lived on turnips and wild game. By March the creek to the EVA Ranch. Arriving at the ranch Red-tailed hawk. they were in real trouble, so Ed hitched a team to about 11 o’clock, she told her story. Nobody a two-wheel cart made out of the rear wheels of a believed her. She went on another half mile to 14. Mallo Road wagon and took off for supplies. For the new- where another rancher and his daughter were You entered the Canyon Springs Prairie when comer, it was a long, hard winter trip through the planting potatoes in a field. She told the daughter you broke out on top after leaving Beaver Creek hills to Buffalo Gap in South Dakota, but he made what had happened. The daughter went to her canyon. This prairie is part of the Red Valley and it there and back—120 plus miles of nothing but father and told him. He disbelieved the story also, better represents the general topographic nature snow and cold. but the daughter convinced him he should inves- of the Red Valley than does Beaver Creek. The With the coming of better weather that tigate. He agreed and sent his sons to gather some “Prairie” has been Weston County’s prime farming spring, they built log houses and barns, dug more men. With Rose, they then started out for country since homesteaders started arriving with ditches and began irrigating their land. Later, they the canyon in a wagon. the opening of the Black Hills to mining. even farmed up on the Limestone, and for a while The wagon could only go so far in the You have two choices at this point. You can they ran a saw mill until it burned. They raised rough canyon and the party walked the rest of turn to the left and continue the tour or you can livestock, hay, grain, and vegetables. They milked the way in. What they found and surmised take a side trip to the location of the Canyon Section 3 cows and made cheese which they sold in happened is best described by the rancher who Springs stage robbery and Mallo Camp beyond. If Cambria along with beef and fresh vegetables. gathered the party: you choose this option, you will then backtrack to Each of the Thomson families raised seven “There were bear tracks everywhere, going this point and continue the tour to the west on children and those children went to the first and coming, and we found where Mason had on Mallo Road. The station location—Site 15—is school on Beaver Creek. It was built on Thomson the morning of the 19th trailed the bear to where located 1.8 miles east on the right side of the road. land. The Thomson brothers and their wives were he had a bed under the overhanging branches of The area you just crossed does not seem to be typical of those who homesteaded this country a large spruce tree. When within fifty feet, the much changed from Colonel Dodge’s day and the and made it. Decent, tough, determined souls, bear evidently jumped up and stood in his bed Canyon Springs are probably the same springs he they took the opportunities offered them by this facing Mason. Or he may of charged. Mason had found as he escorted the Jenney party across the new part of the nation and made something of a 40-60 caliber Winchester repeating rifle and same area you have just traveled. Dodge found: those opportunities through hard work. shells he had reloaded himself. He shot the bear “The topographical features are here very The next site, Site 13—Hank Mason—is 7.5 in the shoulder, the bullet striking the shoulder remarkable, mountain and plain, forest and miles from here. As you drive to it, you are begin- blade and then following the blade a short dis- prairie, smooth level surfaces and rocky deep ning the climb to the Canyon Springs Prairie. In tance, not doing any serious damage. Mason canons being all jumbled together. We stand on a those miles the land begins to change: You find threw out the empty and threw another cartridge high, level, treeless plain, apparently limitless to fewer springs and Beaver Creek spends part of its into the barrel. But it didn’t go all the way in the west and northwest; behind us are the long time underground. The valley opens out and because it was too large. So he got out his jacket slopes terminating in the valley from which we I seems drier. The wildlife habitat ceases to be knife [sic-jack knife?] and tried to pry it out but have recently emerged; in front, and on the same NCLUDING riparian, becoming more meadow-like with pines the bear didn’t give him time. He threw his gun level with us is a heavy mass of pine forest; to the defining its edges. The elk herd may be here, and down and started up a quaking asp tree tight by east, immediately to our right, is the canon of it’s good Mule (Black-tailed) deer country. There him but didn’t quite make it. The bear got him Spaulding’s creek, five hundred feet deep, and is also the chance you just might see Mountain by the heel and pulled him out. His fingers impassable for anything but a bird; and close S

Bluebirds flitting across the road or American peeled the bark from the limb where he had a from its further brink, broken and precipitous HERIDAN Kestrels, either sitting on a fence or hovering over hand hold. An awful fight had taken place there. mountains, covered with dense black forests of the fields adjacent to the road. Man and bear blood was on the rocks, logs and pine, rise yet a thousand feet above us. snow. Now the bear evidently thinking that “Our route led along the brink of the canon of 13. Hank Mason Mason was dead left him and went to a spring Spaulding’s Creek, from the almost precipitious , B Jedediah Smith lost his ear to a bear, but sides of which gushed numerous springs of pure and got a drink. Mason could not walk so began UFFALO gained fame as a mountain man. Hank Mason, to crawl down the canyon towards home. The water. One of these, which could be got at by ani- N ORTHEAST who ran a saw mill on upper Beaver Creek, lost bear came back and trailed Mason about one mals, was evidently a favorite resort of Indians, as his life to a bear and thereby assured himself a many camps were found, of all ages. This we hundred yards or a little more, caught up with , D place in local folk lore. Hank was an old-timer in him and finished him there.” named ‘Indian Spring.” the area and his buffalo camp had been the first AYTON Hank put up a good fight, but he had 32 15. Canyon Springs Robbery habitation by whitemen in the area of Campbell wounds and any one of five would have been A County south of what is now Gillette, Wyoming. Just through the trees in the open area sat a REA fatal. It was a tough job for six men to get Hank’s , G small building roughly constructed of logs. He had also been the first county road supervisor mangled body back over the rough terrain to Primarily a stable, it had a room that served as ILLETTE of Crook County, which originally encompassed where the rancher had left the wagon. On the living quarters for the station’s stock tender. what we now know as Weston, Crook and 21st of May they buried Hank at the mill. He was Think back on your trip and imagine the stage Campbell counties. quickly avenged when four heavily armed friends Hank had a saw mill, but the mill was not climbing up and out of the Beaver Creek canyon, , and two dogs went after the bear. Following the AND the horses tired from pulling a heavily loaded operating in the spring of 1893. A broken wheel bear’s trail, the dogs soon found the grizzly, but it caused a shut-down and the help had been tem- road coach with as many as eighteen passengers

took eight hits before he was finally brought N porarily laid off. Hank and his wife Rose were in up and over that rough country. The open and down. He was an old bear with teeth worn down EWCASTLE level terrain was a relief and the Canyon Springs the canyon alone when a couple of inches of smooth. Six and half feet long, he was thin after station gave everyone a quick chance to stretch as snow fell on the night of May 18. When Hank got the winter and dressed out at 600 pounds by one the horses were changed. up on the morning of the 19th, he told Rose he report. The old “silver-tips’ was mounted by a Ten million dollars worth of gold had been was going up to the cabin on his mining claim Newcastle taxidermist in a standing position and taken out of the Deadwood area by the end of and pick up some bacon as they were getting low. more than one young man had his picture taken 1877. Road agents were always after it and they When he stepped outside there were large bear re-enacting the struggle. got more than a little, until the summer of 1877 tracks near the doorstep. It is said that he picked There is also another story. Like married men www.ultimatewyoming.com 191 when the stage company had the “salamander,” a Cold Springs Ranch station for help. By the time impassable to anything but a bird? In a half mile 16x30 inch iron safe lined with chilled steel, con- any help arrived at the station the robbers were the road will have you down in the bottom of structed. The manufacturer “warranted’ that with long gone. In the trees, they tied their “guests” to that same canyon. the latest Yale lock, the safe could not be opened the coach wheels and with a sledge hammer and Site 17—Boyd Cemetery—is located 1.2 miles inside of six days, by any means except a knowl- cold chisel had the “salamander” open in about to the west of Site 14, Mallo Road, the intersec- edge of the combination.” The stage company two hours. Not much to be said for manufactur- tion where you turned right. As you drive back installed it in a regular coach for the weekly “trea- er’s warrantees. It wouldn’t happen again, at least along Mallo Road, compare the vegetation to that sure” run to Cheyenne. not here; a month later the station closed when you saw when you were driving along Beaver With the use of the “salamander” widely the stage line shifted its route to the east. Creek. Here spruce and quaking asp join the pine known, the road agents’ interest in gold waned The loot? Twenty-seven thousand dollars with spreading juniper in the gladelike open and shifted to registered mail. As always, the pas- mostly in bullion, but some currency, diamonds areas. sengers were fair game. However, it was obvious and jewelry. The hunt was extensive and justice to the stage company this disinterest would not sometimes swift. In less than six weeks some 17. Boyd Cemetery continue as times were changing: the day of the three-fifths of the loot was recovered. Eleven The Boyd Cemetery contains the graves of small mining operation was over, stamping mills thousand two hundred dollars of gold were never some of the Canyon Spring Prairies’ earliest pio- were now operating and large capital intensive recovered. That translates into some 650 ounces neers and it is still used by those families. It once operations were becoming the norm. This devel- at $17.25 an ounce which appears to have been had a church. Originally built as a community opment could only mean larger treasure ship- gold’s value at the time. At today’s prices—well church, it became a Methodist Church in 1909. ments and renewed interest by the ever-present over two million dollars. Local legend has it With infrequent use the building deteriorated and road agent. Consequently, the company decided buried somewhere around here. it was moved in 1957 at a cost of $700 to Four to build a coach whose sole purpose was to carry The stage company was not about to be out- Corners to serve as a community hail and a place valuable cargo. They lined a regular coach with done by road agents. They ordered another safe. for 4-H and Farmer’s Union meetings. This use five-sixteenth inch steel plate; that is, except the This one was one ton in weight and guaranteed did not last and for quite a few years the church roof. Firing ports were added to the doors and by its maker to hold up under 56 hours of unin- sat quiet and boarded; like the settlers of the the “salamander” was bolted to the floor. Only terrupted work. What happened with this first Prairie, it was resilient and refused to roll over, lie two were built—the first was called “The one is not known, but a similar safe delivered five down and die. Today, it has a new life—it is again Monitor” and the second, “The Johnny Slaughter,” months later was opened by the line’s superin- a church. after a stage driver who had been killed earlier by tendent after just one and a half hours of unas- There was a Boyd Post Office from 1894 to road agents just outside of Deadwood. sisted effort. 1917. You passed the site on your way here from The Monitor was scheduled for the September The Site 16—Mallo—is just 0.4 of a mile Mallo. About 10 by 12 feet in size, it also served 26, 1878 run to Cheyenne. Not long before it was down the road. as a general store and living quarters for the post- due to arrive at the Canyon Springs station, five master. Nothing of note happened at the post men rode in and took the station over. They 16. Mallo office, but the Brown family, who lived nearby, Section 3 locked the stock tender in the grain room and When you drive through the ranch style gates had a friend named Stoian. Like most homestead- proceeded to knock the chinking from between you arrive at Mallo, a recreational complex owned ers, Stoian worked in the Cambria mines and the logs by the stable door where the stage pulled and operated by Weston County. In 1935, a pio- proved up on his homestead at the same time. up. Having set the scene for the “most daring, neer Cambria resident purchased 160 acres from Stoian also made the best sauerkraut you ever biggest and bloodiest” holdup of the stage line, the Mallo family and then donated it to the coun- tasted. The Brown’s really enjoyed it and Stoian they waited and around 3 o’clock the Monitor ty for use as a recreational center. told them to come and get some whenever they rolled to a halt about ten feet from the stable The upper camp to your right is known as the ran out. One day they did. Stoian was happy to door. Mallo Resort. Some refer to it as the Russian see them and led them to the kitchen where a big Five men were aboard the coach—the driver Motel or the County Commissioner’s Motel. It open sauerkraut crock sat with several hens roost- and an armed guard on the boot with him, two was built to house U.S. and Russian scientists ed along its rim. It was the last time the Brown’s armed guards inside and an unarmed telegraph when they come to monitor nuclear weapons ate Stoian’s delicious sauerkraut. agent on his way to the Jenney Stockade. The tests from the seismic facility located up the road. Site 18—-is located 0.6 guard climbed down to block the wheels after The lower camp, farther down the road at the of a mile down the road. bottom of the canyon, is known as Mallo Camp. calling for the tender to help them with the seven 18. Inyan Kara minute change of horses. As he started for the Twenty-five men spent the winter of 1935-36 stable he met a hail of bullets. Hit in the arm, he clearing trees downed by a strong storm. The As you look northwest across the Canyon fired back and wounded a robber. Then, he was development of the area was taken on as a WPA Springs Prairie, a series of mountains marking the hit again, this time in the chest. Knocked down, project and a large log lodge and eleven cabins Hogback rise on the horizon. The one on the he continued to fire and wounded another rob- were finished in 1938. The log lodge burned in extreme right is Inyan Kara Mountain. (There are ber. Finally, he crawled behind the barn out of 1977 and a new lodge was built in 1980 to so many different meanings given to those words the line of fire. replace it. It’s a gorgeous place nestled in the we won’t go into them and have someone tell us A round through the top of the coach grazed spruce with Beaver Creek running through. we are wrong.) What we do know is that Kara and stunned one of the guards inside. The Together, the facilities provide exceptional rises some 6,368 feet above sea level and covers remaining guard, while firing through the ports, recreational opportunities. Each February, Mallo an area of some 12 square miles. Geologically, couldn’t get a good view as close as the stage was hosts Weston County’s Winter Festival with its Inyan Kara is not part of the Hogback; like the to the door. He and the telegraph agent dis- horse drawn sleds, snowmobile races and a host Devils Tower, it is an igneous intrusion that mounted and ran for the trees. The telegraph of other winter activities aimed at both young and forced its way up through the formations lying agent was killed. After reaching the trees the old. It sits next to a cross-county ski area devel- over it. Early expeditions, such as Gore’s in 1854 guard wounded a robber trying to take control of oped through the cooperation of private and Warren’s in 1857, mentioned the mountain the horses. Just then another holdup man got landowners, Weston County and the US Forest in their reports. hold of the driver and used him as a shield in an Service, and it serves as a snowmobiler’s base George Custer was sent on a reconnaissance of attempt to get the guard to surrender. It didn’t camp providing easy access to the over three hun- the Black Hills in 1874. Entering the Hills from work. Believing the safe would hold for at least dred miles of groomed trails in the Black Hills. In the north, he traveled down the Red Valley rough- 24 hours, the guard took off on foot for the ranch warmer weather, it is home to school science ly along what is now Wyoming Highway 585. He nearest to the Beaver Creek station, a trip of seven camps, sports camps, church camps, conferences, stopped 4 miles east of the mountain and family reunions—you name it. remained in camp for a couple of days. On the All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 miles. There he could get a horse and go for help from the station where three new armed guards You might want to give a second thought to 23rd of July, accompanied by his staff, the expedi- were waiting to take over the stage. going down to the lower camp during inclement tion’s scientists, a reporter and some cavalry, With all opposition gone, the hold-up men weather. The road is steep with sharp curves and Custer climbed the mountain. He hoped to get a loaded the driver and the remaining unwounded can be slippery coming back up. If you are driv- good view of the Black Hills and the surrounding guard on the stage and drove off into the trees, ing one of the larger recreational vehicles, you plains. However, he was frustrated as the area was leaving the wounded guard behind the barn and probably shouldn’t go down in any weather. obscured by smoke and haze from large prairie the stock tender locked in the feed room. The Remember Colonel Dodge’s 500 foot deep canon, fires. Some surmise the fires were started by tender freed himself and headed north to the Indians, but the more likely case is that they were

192 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia caused by lightning from summer thunder storms. part of Wyoming had its own refinery, as did break. That break was when all of the younger Custer left his mark. The expedition’s journal many small stores like this one. ones paired off and more than one romance got records that “In the hard and flinty album of the As you can see, the old Boyd Church still its start—all under the watchful eye of mom, dad, summit, engraven with cold chisel and hammer, stands. Again a church, nondenominational, its the grandparents, relatives and all the neighbors. in large and distinct characters, Arabic and congregation numbers 40 to 50 on Sundays and The little and the littlest ones came with their Roman is a date and an autograph thus, ‘74. they come from Newcastle, Osage, Upton and folks, no one stayed home, and when they were CUSTER.” It is still up there. Sundance as well as the Prairie. Some remodel- tired of playing and devilling the dancers, or hav- Custer also left a couple of his troopers in the ling work has been done (like the lean-to on the ing mom or dad teach them how to dance, they area—Private Cunningham, who died on the 21st side) and the church has changed a little, but the just laid down on the benches and went to sleep of diarrhea, and a Private Turner, who was killed old lines and feel are still there. One thing hasn’t as their folks danced the rest of the night away. by another trooper on the 22nd in a dispute over a changed: the original and unique pot bellied A dance at the Roundhouse was family, one horse. They were buried and a fire was built over stove still heats the church. great big family which extended itself throughout their graves to conceal their location. [There is a Site 20—The Roundhouse—is 3.1 miles the better part of the county. One lady summed historical marker for this site on WY 585.] Custer south on U.S. 85 on the left. up what people thought of those dances and how then departed to the east and crossed Cold Springs As you drive to your next site at the they were one of the brighter spots of our history Creek in the area where the stage line later built its Roundhouse notice how the Hogback rises to when she said, “I’ve never been to a dance at the Cold Springs station. Present day Buckhorn, protect the Red Valley from intrusion. The moun- Roundhouse. For the 28 years I’ve lived here, I Wyoming on U.S. 85 is near that location. tain to your right, as you look south along the have heard the stories and waited for them to highway, is Sweetwater Mountain and the one to have another one. Now they are and I’m going to 19. Four Corners the left is Mt. Pisgah. be out of town. I don’t want to wait another There are more than a few places in Wyoming Water was piped from springs on Mt. Pisgah twenty-eight years.” She didn’t leave town. That known as “Four Corners,” but there is only one and Sweetwater Mountain to a tunnel at the bot- dance took place on June 5, 1993 and the house Four Corners, Wyoming. Its story began when an tom of Salt Creek canyon near the Flying V. From was packed. early 1890’s homesteader decided he needed to there it was piped through a tunnel in the The small two story building to the south was add something “more profitable than dry farm- Hogback as far as the mines at Cambria. While the Red Butte Store, another of those 7-11s of ing” to the family income So, sometime in the the line was built to supply the mines, some of it their day. middle 1910s, he went up the road about a mile found its way to Newcastle. Early on, a water line Site 21-Red Butte-is 2.1 miles down the road. Section 3 to where two country roads crossed and built the had been built from Cambria down the canyon to Four Corners Mercantile. The store was success- Newcastle to supply the railroad. It was the day ful, very successful, as Prairie residents came from of the steam locomotive and a lot of water was miles around to trade. There were no roads as we required. The town tagged on to this supply. know them today to Newcastle, Sundance or The more than 6,000 feet high Sweetwater Cambria and travel was difficult. In the winter, if Mountain has an interesting climate and some you had a car, you put it away. Travel was by a species of sub-alpine shrubs and flowers are horsedrawn sleigh. The store was located 1.3 found on its heavily wooded slopes, along with miles north on WY 585 from the intersection of the plants and other trees typical of a Ponderosa U.S. 85 and WY 585 at the junction with Pzinski pine forest. It is a rare winter Sweetwater is not Road. A large hole at the junction, the store’s deeply buried in snow. When spring arrives, the basement is all that remains. mountain comes ablaze with high country flowers The dry farmer turned merchant also saw the and blooming wild fruits like chokecherry, ser- area needed a post office and in May of 1916 the viceberry, thorn apple and gooseberry, among Four Corners, Wyoming Post Office opened in others. In the fall of the year, the Sweetwater his general store with himself as postmaster. The again puts on a spectacular show of color. The post office remained at this location until 1935 quaking aspens turn an almost fluorescent yellow 21. Red Butte I when it moved to the Prairie Store when the and the sumac, chokecherry and wild currant add Local folklore has it that the Indians and the NCLUDING “Mercantile” finally closed its doors. Today, the bright patches of red. whiteman used Red Butte as a lookout. That’s post office is a rural branch of the Newcastle Post probably arguable, but it is true that some boot- Office and is located in the Four Corners General leggers had their stills in the area during Store and Diner. Prohibition and there are some stories that local S

The Prairie Store opened in 1932 and for law officers might have been in the habit of talk- HERIDAN fifty-eight years provided, the area’s residents with ing too much in public about when federal rev- gas, groceries, and mail, to say nothing of serving enue authorities were to be around. Earlier, the as a place to stop and learn what was going on in Buck Hanby gang had their “hold-out” some- the area. Today, it is a bed and breakfast, but the where near Red Butte’s base. This gang of murder- , B role it played in the life of the area is not gone; it ers and holdup men were reported by an early UFFALO just moved next door to the Four Corners resident of the area to have been “wanted by the N General Store & Diner located in the old school. ‘law’ all along the old Chisholm cattle trail from ORTHEAST Stores like the Prairie Store were not uncom- the Mexican border to Wyoming.” In the Spring , D mon. You didn’t go to town more than once a of 1889 sheriff’s deputies killed Hanby nearby week, if that. There were as many as five of these and broke up the gang. Hanby was “planted’ AYTON small stores open on U.S. 85 between Newcastle where he fell in a slab board box of native pine A and the South Dakota line in the late 1930s. The 20. The Roundhouse from Tom Sweet’s sawmill.” This was the same REA , G 7-11s of their day, they offered travelers a chance Doesn’t look like much, it never did—BUT— sawmill you saw the location of on Beaver Creek. to gas, the opportunity for a soda, a snack, and, What a Place! The Roundhouse had its grand Red Butte is also a good example of how a ILLETTE the kids, car sick from rough, curvy, bumpy opening on the 4th of July in 1932. From then good roof of sandstone and greenish gray shale roads, a chance to stretch. Maybe even a bath- until it closed it was dances, dances and dances. with fossiliferous limestone from the Jurassic’s room, if they hadn’t already had to go on the side The 4th, Easter, birthdays, weddings, Christmas Morrison Formation can keep the weather at bay. , AND of the road. The Prairie Store was a little different and just plain Saturday night dances. Everybody The red soil is Spearfish shale from the Triassic. though; it had a refinery across the road, a few invited and everybody welcome. You made your You have seen a lot of it as it is the dominate geo- remnants of which are still visible. Oil was hauled way from wherever to the Red Butte Store for a logic feature in the Red Valley. N EWCASTLE from the Osage oil field and refined into gasoline dance at the Roundhouse. It didn’t make any dif- Site 22-Salt Springs-is located 2.4 miles ahead and kerosene that the store then sold. Highly ference what the weather was, you came—ten on the left. developed refining and distribution systems did- below or not. n’t exist in this sparsely populated part of the The Roundhouse had great hardwood floors 22. Salt Springs nation and if you desired the products at a rea- to dance on, the walls were lined with benches A group of prospectors found seventy or more sonable price, it had to be done locally. For a and there was a small kitchen where the ladies salt springs in this area in 1877. The volume of time, almost every small town and by-way in this fixed a bite to eat for the midnight “supper” water and the salt content was higher than it is www.ultimatewyoming.com 193 the mines at Cambria. Site 24—Salt Creek Overlook—is 2.8 miles up the hill. 24. Salt Creek Overlook This is one spectacular view. You are on the side of the Hogback looking out over the Salt Creek and Beaver Creek valleys to the Limestone Plateau. From here you can see those same verti- cal cliffs that were to your east when you stopped at the LAK Lake. A mile or so down in the valley is a ranch known as the ‘Wantz Place.” The original building was a road house and saloon located halfway between Tubb Town and the Cambria mining camp. The mining company did not allow the selling of liquor in Cambria, so the miners just walked over the hill to “Schuh’s Saloon” for some socializing. (Later, the company did allow a beer wagon to come from Newcastle on Sunday and many miners imported grapes and made wine.) Old newspaper reports and passed down stories tell a tale of missing persons, rumored graves and other events that suggest it might have been wiser for the prudent traveler to choose another route. Mr. Wantz bought the saloon and homesteaded the place in 1899. Wantz family members recall that before Mr. Wantz enlarged and sided the house they could find bullet holes in the walls. Site 25—Cambria—is 0.4 of a mile ahead on Salt Creek Overlook the right.

today, yielding, according to reports, three-quar- 25. Cambria

Section 3 ters of a pound of salt per gallon of water. One of The state’s historical marker outlines Cambria’s the prospectors had past experience in salt pro- history, but it doesn’t tell its story. One can only duction by evaporation and, realizing the find’s speculate what this country would have been like value, he persuaded his partners to develop the had the railroad not found its coal here. Where springs and produce salt for sale. They did and would the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad the salt was well received in the area. Not only have laid its tracks as it reached to meet the was it produced for table use, but a coarser vari- Northern Pacific in Montana? If you look at a map ety was manufactured which cattlemen bought of Wyoming, you will see that most of its towns, for their livestock and the mines in the central at least those that lasted, reached and maintained Black Hills at Galena purchased for use in the any size, are almost all located on a railroad. extraction of silver. While Newcastle has a town because coal was When and why production ceased is a mys- found here, it was Cambria itself which made them tery, but it did. In 1905 a new corporation was what they are today. No! Not the mine, but those formed to exploit the springs. Stock was sold, 23. Flying V adventurous, determined and independent souls some facilities were constructed and there was an The Flying V-Cambria Inn was built by the from 23 countries who worked there as they sought attempt to drill well into the salt formation. More mining company as a resort for and a memorial to a better life for themselves and their families. than one problem was encountered. One might the Cambria miners. It was completed in 1928, Twenty-three nationalities who lived in harmony, be solved, but it seemed another quickly arose. only months before the mine closed. Originally intermarried, and who, while working at the mine, The crowning blow or excuse may have been known as the Cambria Park and Casino, its con- homesteaded the surrounding area or gained their events associated with the following report from struction of native sandstone from the Hogback stake to build businesses. If the United States ever the Newcastle News Journal in July 1907: “The was overseen by a master mason the company had an area that demonstrates all the good implied banks of Salt Creek from the milk ranch to a brought over from Germany. It had two swimming in the melting pot theory, it is here in this area. distance above the Salt Springs are lined with pools—one salt water and one fresh—with gravel Site 26—High Plains Overlook—is located carcasses of dead cattle killed by drinking salt bottoms. The bath house featured fresh and salt 1.8 miles south on the right. water. Most of the cattle killed in this manner water showers. The stone entrance to the wooden are cattle that have been driven from the range bath house is now on the National Register of 26. High Plains Overlook around Sweetwater by sheep located there and Historic Places. The lodge featured a dining room, You are standing on top of the Hogback. The as they are not accustomed to drinking the six modern rooms with both tubs and showers, view stretching before you is the last of the water it kills them.” The news item indicates less and upstairs a ballroom surrounded by a wide, mixed grass and the beginning of the short grass concern with the salt water as the cause of the open, covered porch. Across the hill behind the prairie of the High Plains which extends west cattle’s deaths than it does with sheep as the pools, there was a not unchallenging golf course. some 150 miles until they reach the Big Horn cause. A not unexpected view for the time as The Flying V has had a varied history. In 1931, Mountains. To the south, they go all the way to sheep really were not popular. The company the mining company leased the park and casino, Cheyenne and beyond. An idea of the distances went bankrupt and its assets were sold on the and the brothers who leased it renamed it after you can see: On a clear day, an exceptionally courthouse steps. their livestock brand, the Flying V. At one time it clear day, you can see 130 miles Site 23—Flying V—is 1.5 miles down the was home to a bible college, but for the most part away; on most other days about 50 to 70 miles. All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 highway to the left. You will leave the highway at it has been a place to eat and play. Today, it is a The small butte, standing all alone, is Alkali this point. restaurant and bed and breakfast. It is well worth a Butte—out 20 miles; and the Rochelle Hills on From here on back to Newcastle you may see trip inside to see the building’s stonework and the the horizon are about 55 miles distant. large soaring birds. They are not eagles. They are chapel which was originally built to be a museum This is an ideal place to watch summer storms just Turkey vultures, or buzzards as we would say. focused on the mine and its miners. moving across the plains, to watch thunderheads Graceful, they are a pleasure to watch as they It was in this area water brought from form and drift east, and to watch a sunset. There look for something to eat—road kill or anything Sweetwater Mountain and Mt. Pisgah passed is no such thing as a bad sunset in this country. else that’s dead. through the tunnel cut through the Hogback to This is a place to come at night, undisturbed by

194 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia city lights, and watch the stars reach right down Bud Love Winter Range may find that the trails are much like the to the ground. It is a place to imagine cattle herds Sundance system in their beauty and serenity, raising clouds of dust as they trail north across On this drive, you’ll see some of the most scenic and offer a refreshing level of solitude. mountain views imaginable, as well as deer, ante- the arid plains. It is a perfect place to stand and Sundance Trails imagine it covered with water in which the long lope, wild turkey, and in the winter, elk. It takes about one or two hours to drive it, depending on Distance: 47.3 miles total necked Plesiosaurus and sharklike New Climb: 1600 feet Ichthyosaur swim and in which Ammonites, how much you stop and look at what surrounds Rating: easy to difficult Belemnites, Baculites and Crinoids lived out their you. Start in Buffalo at Fort Street and Main Street Usage: moderate lives. Or, imagine the sights you might see after (US 16 west), then head west on Fort and turn Location: Three and a half miles north on FDR 838 off the seas recede, when the thickheaded right (north) on DeSmet. Follow this route out of of US 14 from Sundance. Paschysephalosaurus, the duckbilled town on CR 91.5 (French Creek Road). When the road forks at 5.4 miles, bear left and travel another This trail system weaves through the network of Antatosaurus, Tyrannosaurus Rex, and Triceratops densely forested canyons and winding open walk the land—to name a few whose fossilized 5 miles to the Bud Love Winter Range. The road ridges that form the Bearlodge Mountains. From remains have been found. forks again at 15 miles, where you should stay some ridge tops you can see such sites as the Later, imagine early man emerging from the right and follow Rock Creek Road back to Buffalo. Custer Expedition Route, Devil’s Tower and the Hills to hunt on its grasslands the mammoth, the Reprinted from Wyoming Department Twin Missouri Buttes. Elk, deer, and turkey are big horned bison, Pleistocene camels, elk and of Transportation Brochure among the wildlife. This rugged but serene coun- try is ideal for horseback riding. The secluded antelope. It’s changed a lot since the dinosaur, but Crazy Woman Canyon trails provide one of the most primitive recre- has it really changed that much from the time of ational opportunities in the Black Hills. Water for early man? It is generally accepted that the prairie One of the favorite drives for Johnson County horses is normally available along many of the you see today, though changed by modern man, locals, and visitors as well, this tour takes you trails. These trails are also popular for mountain closely resembles and retains much of the charac- along a single lane dirt road past stunning canyon biking because of the rough topography. Be sure ter of its earlier state. What you see today is the walls into the mountains. Begin at the intersec- to look for bypasses designed specifically for same as what the Lakota found as they moved tion of Fort and Main in Buffalo, taking US 16 more challenging mountain biking, especially west in the middle 1700s and the early whiteman west towards the mountains. After about 25 South Fork Tent, and Edge Trails. found in the 1800s. Today, deer, antelope and elk miles, watch for a well-signed Crazy Woman Cliff Swallow and Cook Lake Trails share the grasslands with cattle and sheep instead Canyon Road, which branches left off of US 16. Distance: 3.5 miles and 1 mile Section 3 of sharing it the bison, the camel or the mam- To return to Buffalo, follow the gravel road which Climb: 600 feet/ 100 feet moth. This is the last site on the tour. The junc- brought you through the canyon and joins Rating: difficult/ easy tion of U.S. 16 & 85 is 1.5 miles down the road. Wyoming 196. Turn left onto Wyoming 196 on Usage: moderate If you did not stop by the Anna Miller Museum, which you’ll drive ten miles back to Buffalo. Location: 20 miles north of Sundance on FDR 838, you really should do so. It is a gem. If you did Reprinted from Wyoming Department of 843, and 842. Transportation Brochure visit, you are always welcome to come back again. These trails are designed and maintained for hik- On the way back to the junction, you might Outlaw Cave/ ing, mountain biking and nature study. Below notice to your left just a bit down the road a Cook Lake and along Beaver Creek, you can see complex of buildings. They are the Wyoming Dull Knife Battlefield beaver in their natural habitat, plus many species Honor Camp, a part of the state penal system. This tour takes you to the land of Butch Cassidy of birds and other wildlife. Cliff swallows nest in The men there work for the state forestry depart- and the Sundance Kid. Johnson County locals the limestone bluffs above Beaver Creek. From the rim there is a stunning view of the surround- ment and have been superb in giving time to and visitors favor the area’s wildlife and scenery ing Bearlodge Mountains as well as Beaver Creek community projects. The camp is also home to a as much as the tales of these outlaws. This is also Valley and Cook Lake. The trail takes you “boot” camp, designed to provide a disciplined the area of the Middle Fork of the Powder River. through ponderosa pines, aspen, birch and oak. program for youthful, first time offenders in an High clearance vehicle are recommended for this You may see white-tailed deer, mule deer, and elk effort to give them a chance to straighten out route. Beginning at Kaycee, take the I-25 inter- grazing in the meadows. without prison incarceration. The Honor Camp is change and head west about a mile to the I a good and trusted neighbor. Barnum Road sign (Wyoinng 190). Follow Bighorn National Forest NCLUDING If you go out on the prairie at night, the Barnum Road 17.1 miles to a sign designating the lights of the camp give the impression of a flying Middle Fork Management Area of the Powder (Tongue District, west of Dayton) saucer soaring through the night sky over the River. Turn left at the sign onto a gravel/dirt road. South Tongue Trail seemingly never ending open space of this great This will take you another 8.5 miles to the Climb: gentle S part of the country. Outlaw Cave sign, where you should turn and Rating: easy HERIDAN This tour was developed by interested individuals drive another 2 miles to the hideout. Another .3 Usage: light Location: Take FDR 193 off of Hwy. 14 about 10 miles with the cooperation of the Anna Miller Museum, the miles past the cave you can find a prehistoric rock shelter and Indian pictographs. south of Dayton, then go 150 yards south of Weston County Museum District, the Weston County Arrowhead Lodge. Preservation Commission, and the Weston County Reprinted from Wyoming Department of , B

Historical Society. Special thanks to Pope & Talbot, Transportation Brochure This is a fairly easy day hike offering a variety of UFFALO Inc. for providing the site sign materials and the Honor scenery. The trail goes through meadows, across N ORTHEAST Camp for making them. Reprinted with permission. several streams, through stands of timber, and HIKES past unique rock formations. There fishing opportunities in several pools and riffles along the , D

Cloud Peak Skyway way. The trail ends just off FDR 26, about 1/2 AYTON Black Hills Area mile from the Tie Flume Campground. This is the southern-most route across the Carson Draw Trails A Black Mountain Fire Lookout REA Bighorn National Forest in the Big Horn Distance: 6.8 miles total , G Mountains. The designated 47-mile stretch on US Climb: 800 feet Distance: 1 mile (plus) 16 shares its boundaries with the National Forest. Rating: easy to moderate Climb: steep ILLETTE The highway can be reached via Tenleep from the Usage: moderate Rating: easy/ moderate Usage: light west of Buffalo from the east. Allow one hour Location: Three miles north on FDR 838 off of US 14

from Sundance. Location: Take FDR 16 off of Hwy. 14 about 9 , minimum driving time. miles south of Dayton, then turn onto FDR 222 on AND The road is a paved tow-lane highway, with The Carson Draw Trails are Four-season, non- the east side. occasional pullouts as it ascends toward 9666-

motorized trails that wind through Carson Draw. N It’s possible to drive to within a mile of the look- foot Powder River Pass. This route makes a more They are off the beaten path and offer solitude EWCASTLE gradual ascent of the mountain range than to those searching for a more primitive trail out if you have a high clearance vehicle. The trail experience. Pine, aspen and oak stands sur- up to the lookout is steep, but the bird’s-eye view routes to the north. Mountain weather can be from the top, at 9489 feet, is worth it. At the extreme and snow can fall in any month at these round the trails and provide habitat for the abundant wildlife that uses the area. From summit you’ll find a historic cabin and a 360- elevations, but rarely does it affect travel in the spring to fall, the trails are busy with multiple degree view of the Bighorn Mountains. summer and early fall. types of users, including hikers, mountain bik- Blue Creek Loop Trail Reprinted from Wyoming Department of ers, and horse riders. The trails are a pleasant Transportation Brochure diversion into the peaceful backwoods. Users Distance: 2.4 miles www.ultimatewyoming.com 195 Climb: moderate The trail begins at the creek. You may follow it past Old Crow Trail. After crossing Duck Creek, Rating: easy/ moderate either west or east; the trail circles back to the go north on TR 095 to complete the loop back to Usage: light same point. Either way, you’ll see views of the Sherd Lake at the South Fork Ponds crossing. Location: Take Hwy. 14 about 9 miles south of Dayton Buffalo area and surrounding countryside. to the Sibley Recreation Area turnout. Hunter/ Ant Hill Trail* Pole Creek Road Distance: about 7 miles This trail follows Prune Creek for a short distance Distance: 11 miles Climb: steep then proceeds through a small meadow, to arrive Climb: flat Rating: quite difficult in some lodgepole pine stands. The trail then Rating: easy Usage: heavy loops and returns to the Sibley Lake Campground. Usage: light Location: Travel about 12 miles west of Buffalo on There are also two other marked loop hiking trails Location: Travel 19 miles west, then south of Buffalo Hwy. 16, then turn right (west) on FDR 19 (Hunter accessible from the Blue Creek Trailhead. The on Hwy. 16, then turn right (west) on FH 31 (Pole Park Rd.). The Hunter Trailhead is about 3 miles Prune Creek Loop travels 2.7 miles and the Dead Creek Rd.). west, where you can park. Horse Park Loop is 6 miles long. This is a gravel road, passable for most vehicles, This is a fairly strenuous hike, and should be Barrs Hill Trail which reconnects with Hwy. 16 about 11 miles planned for overnight, at least. Take FDR 496 Distance: 6.5 miles south. There is seldom any traffic, and it is flat, northwest from the trailhead through the French Climb: steep so it’s easy to walk or ride on. Along the way, you Creek Swamp, to where it intersects with FDR Rating: difficult will find several old logging roads, which are 399. Follow this northwest to South Rock Creek, Usage: light gated and closed to motorized vehicles, but open where it intersects with TR 7. Take TR 7 to TR Location: Take Hwy. 14 south of Dayton to FDR 196, to walkers, bikers, and horses. 219 then follow it until you reach TR 38 at Elk about a mile north of Arrowhead Lodge. Follow this Lake. This trail circles the lake, then heads south road past the stone cabin , then branch off to your right Crazy Woman Canyon over the saddle of North Clear Creek, turning at the first fork. Continue following the main road Distance: varies east into TR 24, then TR 44, which goes to the until you come to the Barrs Hill sign. A high clearance Climb: steep Seven Brothers Lakes. At Lake One, turn east vehicle is recommended. Rating: difficult onto TR 45 heading for Buffalo Park. Go east Usage: light through the park, until you reach FDR 396, This trail is on a steep slope, which drops into Location: Travel 25 miles west, then south of Buffalo which will take you back to the Hunter Trailhead. the Tongue River drainage area. The North and on Hwy. 16, then turn left (east) onto FDR 33 South Tongue Rivers meet along this riparian (Crazy Woman Canyon Rd.). The road drops quick- Solitude Loop Trail #38* zone. The trail parallels the river on the south ly into some side drainages, which offer some chal- Distance: 50 miles side, winding through aspen, pine, and cotton- lenging hiking. Climb: moderate wood until it ends at the Cutler Creek and Box Rating: moderate/ difficult Canyon area. This is where the historic sawmill There are no trails, so caution needs to be exer- Usage: light town of Rockwood once stood. There are several cised on these hikes. Experience with moun- Location: Travel about 12 miles west of Buffalo on old cabins still standing and other interesting taineering and orienteering is recommended. The Hwy. 16, then turn right (west) on FDR 19 (Hunter sawmill remnants. These are a part of our her- main advantage is that very few people will be Park Rd.). The Hunter Trailhead is about 3 miles itage, so please don’t disturb them. You must encountered in this canyon.

Section 3 west, where you can park. travel the same trail back to the starting point, which is a considerable uphill climb. Poison Creek Road This hike takes about five days to complete, but it Distance: varies takes you past several of the prettiest lakes in the Steamboat Point Trail Climb: steep Bighorn Mountains. Go west from the trailhead Distance: about 3 miles Rating: difficult on FDR 394 (Soldier Park Rd.) to TR 24. Climb: steep Usage: light Continue west until you reach TR 38, which is Rating: moderately difficult Location: Travel about 29 miles west/southwest of the Solitude Loop Trail. It is well marked and Location: Take Hwy. 16 about 13 miles south and Buffalo on Hwy. 16, then turn left (south) onto FDR will eventually lead you back to TR 24, and west. There is a parking area just across the highway 484 (Poison Creek Rd.). This road will take you to the Soldier Park Rd. Other spurs diverge from this from Steamboat Point. base of the Hazelton Peaks area. The road is rough, trail, including the West Tensleep Trail. but passable for most vehicles. Follow the tire ruts up to the Point. The trail West Tensleep/ Misty Moon Trail #63* then heads to the right side of the mountain and There are no marked trails on the mountains, but Distance: about 7 – 57 miles follows the base of the south wall. Reaching the many routes along the drainages of the peaks will Climb: moderate back of the rock is challenging, but no ropes or lead you to the top, where you will find a spec- Rating: moderate/difficult equipment are necessary: just strength and cau- tacular panorama of both the Powder River Basin Usage: heavy tion. From the top, there is a sheer drop to the and the . Location: Travel 44 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo or rocks below, and only a makeshift railing, so use Grouse Mountain Road 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north on FDR 27, extreme caution, especially if there is wind. Do continuing 7 miles to the West Tensleep Trailhead. not attempt this hike if a thunderstorm is threat- Distance: varies ening; lightning has struck here more than once. Climb: gentle This trail meets with the Solitude Loop Trail, The view on all sides is breathtaking. Rating: moderate which means hikers may chose to make it an Usage: light overnight hike, or a several day trip. The trail Tongue River Canyon Trail Location: Travel about 10 miles west of Buffalo on follows West Tensleep Creek to Lake Helen, Lake Distance: 4 miles Hwy. 16, then turn left (south) onto FDR 402/403 Marion, and finally to Misty Moon Lake, which is Climb: moderate (Grouse Mountain Rd.). Park just off the road. the 7 mile portion of the journey. TR 63 inter- Rating: easy/ moderate sects with TR 38 (the Solitude Loop Trail) north Location: Turn right on County Rd. 92, between There are no trails maintained in this area, but of Misty Moon Lake. Following this loop can add Dayton and Ranchester, and travel about 5 miles, stay- the surrounding meadows and view of the valley as much as 50 miles to your trip (see Solitude ing to the left and heading into the canyon. This road make walking here enjoyable and easy. Loop Trail). is accessible to most vehicles. The trail is at the north (* These hikes are in the Cloud Peak Wilderness end of the parking area. Lost Twin Lakes Trail #65* Area, so registration is required.) Distance: about 6 miles This trail is a gradual climb through the canyon, Sherd Lake/ South Fork Trails* Climb: moderate with a few precarious overlooks down to the river Distance: varies Rating: moderate/difficult along the way. There are also a few steep ravines Climb: gentle/ moderate Usage: heavy leading down to the riverside. Rating: easy/ moderate Location: Travel 44 miles west/southwest of Buffalo or Usage: heavy 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north on FDR 27, Buffalo Area Location: Travel about 16 miles west of Buffalo on continuing 7 miles to the West Tensleep Trailhead. Hwy. 16, then turn right (west) on FDR 20 (Circle All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 French Creek Trail #42 This trail climbs through lodgepole pine forest Road). This will take you about 2.5 miles to the Circle and meadows by the Middle Tensleep Creek to Distance: 2 – 3.5 miles Park Trailhead, where both trails begin. Climb: gentle Mirror Lake, then on to Lost Twin Lakes. The Rating: easy The Sherd Lake Trail begins on TR 182, which forest changes from pine to often stunted spruce Usage: light turns into TR46, and goes about a mile to the and fir along the way, until the treeline is crossed, Location: Travel about 10 miles west of Buffalo on Hwy. lake. Beyond the lake, the elevation climbs, and and an open view of the area can be seen at the 16, then turn right (north) on FDR 368 (French Creek the trail becomes the South Fork Trail. This trail top of the trail. Rd.). Cars and two wheel drive vehicles need to park turns into TR 095, then 1/4 mile farther along Middle Tensleep Falls Trail about 1/4 mile down the rode. High clearance, 4WD becomes TR 046 at Rainey Lake. Head south Distance: 2 miles vehicles can go another 1.5 miles in before parking.

196 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Climb: flat miles, until you reach the Taylor Cabin Site: The cabin Rating: easy is no longer there, but a barn is. Motor vehicles are Usage: light not permitted beyond this point. THUNDER BASIN Location: Travel 44 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo or 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north on FDR 27, Take TR 51 up North Sayles Creek to Firebox continuing 7 miles to the West Tensleep Trailhead. Park. Turn onto TR 41 and go west along Middle Rock Creek to TR 43. Then follow TR 10 south to Thunder Basin National Grassland covers This trail follows Middle Tensleep Creek south to TR 41 on Keno Creek. Return on TR 41 north to 572,211 acres of northeastern Wyoming’s the falls. Take the same route back. TR 51 at Firebox Park and back to Taylor Cabin. Powder River Basin between the Bighorn Baby Wagon Creek Trail* Battle Park/Paint Rock Creek Trail* Mountains and the Black Hills. It offers wide Distance: about 3 miles Distance: about 7 miles expanses of rolling plateaus, steep rocky Climb: gentle Climb: moderate escarpments, and rolling plains. It is one of the Rating: easy Rating: moderate largest intact grassland habitats left in the Usage: light Usage: moderate Northern Great Plains. This ecosystem is home Location: Travel 38 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo or Location: Travel 44 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo on to rare species that include the ferruginous 27 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north on FDR 422, Hwy. 16, or 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north hawk, swift fox, mountain plover, burrowing then north again onto FDR 419, which is a rough road, on FDR 27. Continue 1 mile north, then turn left on owl, and black-tailed prairie dog. The Bozeman so high clearance, 4WD vehicles are recommended. FDR 24 (Battle Park Rd.). Drive 15 miles to reach to The road ends at Baby Wagon Creek, which is where Battle Park Trailhead. and Texas trails cross a section of the grassland. the trail begins. Recreational activities abound. You can This trail passes through high mountain mead- fish in mountain streams, stay in a camp- This trail meanders along the riparian zone of the ows, pine stands, and along several streams. ground or hike into the backcountry and find creek towards McLain and Maybelle Lakes. TR From the trailhead, go north on TR 164 west of pristine solitude. Excellent opportunities await 69 runs east and west and connects with TR 98, Grace Lake, then go west on TR 38. Continue on you, no matter what type of outdoor recre- which passes by the lakes, with a possible loop this trail to TR 62, on Paint Rock Creek, by the by way of TR 79, which leads to FDR 430 and cow camp. Just south of the camp, turn south- ation you enjoy, from ATV trails and 4WD returns east on TR 69. east to TR 172, which returns to TR 164, then roads to mountain biking and hiking. From ski- back to the trailhead. ing champagne powder to visiting the largest Middle Rock Creek Trail* coal mine in the Northern Hemisphere. Distance: about 8 miles Upper Paint Rock Lake Loop Trail* For use information, permits, and othe Section 3 Climb: 4500 feet Distance: 18 miles questions, contact the Laramie Ranger District Rating: very difficult Climb: steep at at 2468 Jackson Street in Laramie or Usage: light Rating: difficult Location: In Buffalo, turn north off of Fort St. (Hwy. Usage: light phone 745-2300. www.fs.fed.us 16) onto N. DeSmet St. This street turns into French Location: Travel 44 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo on Creek Rd. Take this road 8 miles north to the entrance Hwy. 16, or 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north Usage: light of the Bud Love Winter Game Refuge. Go through the on FDR 27. Continue 1 mile north, then turn left on Location: Travel 20 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo gate and head west on the dirt road for 2 miles until FDR 24 (Battle Park Rd.). Drive 15 miles to reach the on Hwy. 16, then turn left (east) onto FDR 22 (Elgin you reach the Taylor Cabin site. The cabin is no longer Battle Park Trailhead. Park Rd.). Go 1 mile east to FDR 460, then 1 ile there, but a barn is. Motor vehicles are not permitted north, to turn left on FDR 372. Follow this road 1.3 beyond this point. Go north on TR 164 west of Grace Lake to TR 38, miles to the trailhead. This road accommodates large where you’ll travel west, and then east, around trailers and RVs. This is probably an overnight trek. From the Poacher Lake to TR 59 in the Teepee Pole Flats. cabin site, follow TR 51 to Firebox Park then take Take this trail to Lower Paint Rock Lake, turning There are numerous loop hikes or rides available TR 41 to the junction of Middle and South Rock south onto TR 116 and then onto TR 94. This will from the Elgin Park Trailhead. The trails are Creek. Take TR 41 south along Keno Creek, take you to TR 62, then south to TR 173 and back marked with yellow diamonds, and a handout is where it meets up with FDR 399/396. For a to TR 164 and eventually the Battle Park Trailhead. available. The Elgin Park area offers exceptional longer loop, head north along TR 40 until it views of the backbone of the Bighorn Mountains, intersects with TR 10, which will take you back Lily Lake Trail camping, and stream fishing. Best of all, it Distance: 3 miles I down to FDR 399/ 396 also. This road connects receives little use. Designed for horse travel, but NCLUDING with FDR 388, which will take you north to TR Climb: moderate open to hikers, backpackers, and mountain bik- 41, then TR 51, which takes you back to Taylor Rating: moderate ers, there are exceptional views along the trails, Cabin. Usage: moderate and they are easy to follow. Motorized vehicles, Location: Travel 44 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo on such as ATV’s and dirt bikes, are permitted here Johnson Park/ Cougar Canyon Trail* Hwy. 16, or 17 miles east of Tensleep, then turn north

also, so use caution. S

Distance: about 8 miles on FDR 27. Continue 1 mile north, then turn left on HERIDAN Climb: steep FDR 24 (Battle Park Rd.). Drive 15 miles to reach to High Park Lookout Trail Rating: very difficult Battle Park Trailhead. Climb: moderate Usage: light Rating: easy Location: In Buffalo, turn north off of Fort St. (Hwy. This is a reasonable day hike - not too strenuous,

Usage: moderate , B 16) onto N. DeSmet St. This street turns into French not too easy. Go north on TR 164 until it inter- Location: Travel 41 miles west/ southwest of Buffalo,

Creek Road. Take this road 8 miles north to the sects with TR 66. Follow this trail to the lake, UFFALO

or 20 miles east of Tensleep, on Hwy. 16, then turn N entrance of the Bud Love Winter Game Refuge. Go and return by the same route. south on FDR 429. Follow the signs to the Lookout ORTHEAST through the gate and head west on the dirt road for 2 Lake Angeline Trail* Parking Lot. miles, until you reach the Taylor Cabin Site: The cabin is no longer there, but a barn is. Motor vehicles are Distance: 6 miles This trail goes up to the summit where an old fire , D not permitted beyond this point. Climb: steep lookout post stands. It is well marked, and easy AYTON Rating: difficult to follow. From the top, there are spectacular Take TR 51 west along the North Fork of Sayles Usage: moderate A

views of the Bighorn Mountains and Bighorn REA

Creek. At Firebox Park take TR 41 then go onto Location: Travel west of Buffalo on Hwy. 16 to FDR 391 Basin. The building itself cannot be entered , G TR 549 about a half mile after that. Take this trail (Schoolhouse Park Rd.). This road requires a high clear- because it is no longer safe. south onto TR 550, which intersects with FDR ance, 4WD vehicle. The trail begins at Weber Park. ILLETTE 396. Take this road south to TR 42, then head northeast to the National Forest boundary. As you Follow TR 88 west up to Lake Angeline. The trail Devil’s Tower Hikes is rather difficult to follow through the Lost Fire drop in elevation, leaving the forest area, follow the Tower Trail - 1.3 miles (2 km) , tree line back to Taylor Cabin, about 2.5 miles. area, with its many blown-down trees. Once AND above the timberline, it is marked with rock The Tower Trail is the easiest and most popular Firebox Park Trail cairns. Lake Angeline and its environs offer excel- trail in the monument. You will enjoy close up lent views and climbing opportunities. From the views of the Tower, while walking through strik- N

Distance: varies EWCASTLE top of the surrounding peaks, climbers can get a ingly different environments. Expect close views Climb: steep of the boulder field, ponderosa pine forest, and Rating: moderate/difficult magnificent view of the west slope of the Bighorn Mountains and the Bighorn Basin beyond. the fringe of meadow habitats. Usage: light Interpretive exhibits along the way point out Location: In Buffalo, turn north off of Fort St. (Hwy. Elgin Park Trails such natural processes as the formation of the 16) onto N. DeSmet St. This street turns into French Tower, erosion of the landscape, local wildlife, Creek Road. Take this road 8 miles north to the Distance: varies Climb: varies and the flora of the base. The Tower Trail is paved entrance of the Bud Love Winter Game Refuge. Go with benches provided at various points. The through the gate and head west on the dirt road for 2 Rating: moderate www.ultimatewyoming.com 197 steepest part of the trail is the very beginning but Hospitals Mountain Cabin by the Stream • Story 672-8260 soon levels into a rolling trail. Plan to take 45 Wagon Box Inn, Restaurant & Cabins • minutes to 1 hour to complete this loop trail. Campbell County Memorial Hospital • Story 683-2444 Gillette 682-8811 Joyner Ridge Trail - 1.5 miles (2.4 km) Little Goose Coop Guest House • Memorial Hospital of Sheridan County • Sheridan 672-0886 Joyner Ridge provides visitors with the full pic- Sheridan 672-1000 ture of different life zones of the area. Located Sundance Mountain Hideaway • away from the Tower in the northern section of Airports Sundance 283-3766 the park, it takes hikers on a tour of the ridgetop forest, and provides fine views of the north and Gillette 686-1042 Bed and Breakfasts west faces of Devils Tower. The trail drops past Sheridan 674-4222 sandstone cliffs into a secluded meadow, where Four Pines B&B • Dayton 655-3764 you can often see deer and a variety of birds. Golf Cameo Rose B&B • Sheridan 673-0500 Meander through a grove of deciduous trees and The Jost House Inn B&B • Gillette 687-1240 shrubs, into the prairie, and back to the trailhead. Horseshoe Mountain Golf Club • The Bunkhouse • Aladdin 283-3542 A few interpretive exhibits provide insight into Dayton 655-9525 White Horse B&B • Dayton 655-9441 the ecological checks and balances of the area. Powderhorn Golf Club • Sheridan 672-5323 EVA - Great Spirit Ranch B&B • Joyner Ridge is a spectacular sunset hike with Kendrick Golf Course • Sheridan 674-8148 Newcastle 746-2537 wonderful photographic opportunities. Allow Sundance Golf Club • Sundance 283-1191 Graves B&B • Kaycee 738-2319 1-1/2 hours to complete this loop trail. Buffalo Golf Course • Buffalo 684-5266 Historic Mansion House Inn • Buffalo 684-2218 Red Beds Trail - 3 miles (4.5 km) Devils Tower Golf Club • Hulett 467-5773 Piney Creek Inn B&B • Story 683-2911 The Red Beds Trail is the longest trail in the mon- Keyhole Country Club • Pine Haven 756-3775 Bozeman Trail Inn • Big Horn 672-9288 ument. In a counterclockwise direction, the trail Salt Creek Country Club • Midwest 437-6859 Spahn’s B&B • Big Horn 674-8150 leaves the Visitor Center and takes you through Newcastle Country Club • Newcastle 746-2639 Four Corners Country Inn • pine groves and meadows with good views of the Cedar Pines Golf Club • Upton 468-2847 Four Corners 746-4776 valley floor and distant hills, winding down Haycreek Golf Club • Wright 464-0747 Devils Tower Lodge B&B 467-5267 toward the Belle Fourche River. You may choose Gillette Golf Club • Gillette 682-4774 to take a 30 minute loop down the South Side Powder River Experience • Clearmont 758-4381 Trail through Prairie Dog Town to the camp- Bell Nob Golf Course • Gillette 686-7069 GranMa’s B&B • Hulett 467-5410 ground or continue along the river via the Valley Bozeman Trail B&B • Big Horn 672-2381 View Trail. The Red Beds Trail continues through Ski Areas Double Eagles Nest B&B • Buffalo 684-8841 the iron-stained bluffs known as the Red Beds Antelope Butte Ski Area 655-9530 Empire Guest House • 756-9707 and emerges into a broad prairie with good views Bunkhouse Country Experience of the Tower. From the prairie you climb back up Guest Ranches B&B • Adaddin 283-3542 through the forest to the Visitor Center. Allow Spear Ranch B&B • Big Horn 673-0079 yourself 2 hours to complete this loop trail. The Ranch at Ucross • Clearmont 737-2281 Historic Old Stone House • Ranchester 655-9239 Section 3 Eatons Ranch • Sheridan 655-9552 Greenhorn B&B • Kaycee 738-2548 NFORMATION LEASE Folded Hills Ranch • Buffalo 684-5179 I P TA Ranch • Buffalo 684-5833 Clear Creek B&B • Buffalo 684-2317 Diamond L Guest Ranch • Hulett 467-5236 Stonehearth Inn • Buffalo 684-9446 Tourism Information Willow Creek Ranch at Hole-in-the-Wall • Flying V Campbria Inn • Newcastle 746-2096 Foothills B&B • Parkman 655-9362 Sheridan Travel and Tourism 673-7120 Kaycee 738-2294 Kroger House B&B • Sheridan 674-6222 Johnson County Tourism Association 684-5544 Diamond Seven Bar Ranch • Alva 467-5786 Meadows at the Powder Horn Gillette Convention and Visitors Bureau Rocking Horse Ranch • Arvada 736-2488 • Sheridan 674-9545 686-0040 Little Piney Ranch • Banner 683-2008 Ranch Willow B&B • Sheridan 674-1510 Chamber of Commerce - Buffalo 684-5544 Canyon Ranch • Big Horn 674-6239 Auntie M’s B&B • Sheridan 674-7035 Devils Tower Chamber of Commerce 467-5395 Klondike Guest Ranch • Buffalo 684-2390 Hulett Chamber of Commerce 467-5430 Paradise Guest Ranch • Buffalo 684-7876 Outfitters and Guides Kaycee Visitors Center & Dry Creek Ranch • Buffalo 684-7433 Chamber of Commerce 738-2444 Gardner’s Muddy Creek Angus • Buffalo 684-7797 Big Horn Mountain Lodge H 751-7599 Moorcroft Chamber of Commerce 756-3386 Triple Three Ranch • Buffalo 684-2832 Trail West Outfitters FHEG 684-5233 Newcastle Area Chamber of Commerce746-2739 Sweetgrass Ranch • Buffalo 684-8851 Just Gone Fishing F 684-2755 Chamber of Commerce - Sheridan 672-2485 Sky Bow Castle Ranch, Inc. • Gillette 682-3228 Bear Track Lodge & Outfitters H 684-2528 Sundance Chamber of Commerce 283-1000 Heartspear Hideaway • Gillette 682-0812 Nelson Outfitters H 672-6996 Wright Chamber of Commerce 464-1312 7W Ranch • Hulett 878-4493 Triple Three Ranch FHE 684-2832 Lake Guest Ranch • Hulett 467-5908 Simon’s Hunting H 283-2664 Government Tumbling T Guest Ranch • Hulett 467-5625 Western Gateway Outfitters H 467-5824 P Cross Bar Ranch Trophy Hunts H 682-3994 BLM Buffalo Field Office 684-1100 Wyoming Edge Outfitters • Hulett 467-5588 Tumbling T Guest Ranch/Whitetail Creek BLM Newcastle Field Office 476-6600 Pine Ridge Ranch • Hulett 467-5843 Outfitters FEG 467-5625 Gillette Project Office 686-6750 Dampier Lodge • Newcastle 746-4797 Platt’s Guides & Outfitters FHRE 327-5539 Bighorn National Forest - Tongue Ranger District Paleo Park • Newcastle 334-2270 Edwards Outfitters HF 464-1518 674-2600 Buffalo Creek Ranch • Recluse 682-8728 Sagebrush Outfitters H 682-4394 Bighorn National Forest - Buffalo Ranger District HF Bar Ranch • Saddlestring 684-2487 Windows to the West G 682-3334 684-1100 Spear-O-Wigwam Ranch • Sheridan 673-5543 Wyoming Edge Outfitters H 467-5588 Black Hills National Forest - Hell Canyon District Hawken Guest Ranch • Sundance 756-9319 Double Rafter Cattle Drive EG 655-9463 746-2782 Eaton's Ranch • Wolf 655-9285 Northern Wyoming Outfitters H 672-2515 Bighorn National Forest - Medicine Lodges and Resorts Cloud Peak Llama Treks G 683-2548 Wheel/Paintrock Ranger District 548-6541 Rimrock West Adventures H 683-2911 Black Hills National Forest - The Ranch at Ucross • Clearmont 737-2281 Baker Hunts H 750-2464 Bear Lodge Ranger District 283-1361 Passage Resort at Big Horn • Dayton 751-7599 Bear Lodge Resort • Dayton 752-2444 Eagle Creek Outfitters HFE 672-6520 Antelope Outfitters H 685-1132

All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 Car Rentals Bear Track Lodge & Outfitters • Buffalo 684-2528 South Fork Mountain Lodge • Buffalo 684-1225 Big Buck Outfitters H 751-0448 Enterprise • Gillette 686-5655 Bare Tracks Trophies H 896-3914 Hertz • Gillette 686-0550 Lake Stop Resort & Marina • Buffalo 684-9051 Pines Lodge • Buffalo 351-1010 Big Horn Mountain Oufitters H 674-4691 U-Save Auto Rental • Gillette 682-2815 Greer Outfitters H 687-7461 Truck Corral Auto Rentals • Sheridan 672-7955 Vacation Houses, Little Bighorn Outfitters H 684-5179 Enterprise • Sheridan 672-6910 Cabins & Condos North By Northwest H 684-9633 Frank’s Rentals • Gillette 682-5620 Rafter B Outfitters R 684-2793 River’s Edge Apartments • Hulett 360-7771 Seven J Outfitters H 283-3443 Folded Hills Ranch • Buffalo 684-5179

198 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Dining Quick Reference Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

1 Kelly’s Kitchen Family $$ Yes L/D M/V 2 Copper Mine at the Passage Steakhouse $$/$$$ Yes Yes B/L/D M/V/AX 2 Bear Lodge Resort Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 2 Branding Iron Restaurant Homestyle $$ Yes B/W L/D/B Major 2 Mountain Inn Bar food $ Yes Yes L/D Major 3 Trolley Line Restaurant American $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 3 Domi’s Pizza Pizza $$ L/D Major 3 Kentucky Fried Chicken Fast Food $ Yes L/D 3 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 3 Pablo’s Mexican Restaurant & Cantina Mexican/American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 3 Silver Spur Café Family $/$$ Yes B/L 3 Kim Family Restaurant Korean $$ L/D Major 3 Sutton’s Tavern Bar $ Yes D/L 3 Trails End Restaurant Family $/$$ Yes Yes D/L/B Major 3 Country Kitchen Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 4 Oliver’s Bar & Grill New American $$$ Yes L/D Major Section 3 4 Meritage Wine Lounge Tappas $$ Yes D Major 4 Java Moon Bakery & Deli Coffee House $/$$ B/L Major 4 Sheridan Center Restaurant Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 4 Wyoming’s Rib & Chop House Family $$$/$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 4 Sheridan Palace Restaurant Homecooking $ Yes B/L Major 4 Quiz’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D Major 4 Dairy Queen Fast Food $ Yes L/D 4 Ole's Pizza and Spaghetti Italian $$ Yes B/W L/D Major 4 Dragon Wall Chinese $$ L/D M/V 4 Empire Grill Fine Dining $$$ Yes D Major 4 Tumbleweed Coffee Shop $ B/L M/V 4 Perkins Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 4 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 4 Sanford’s Grub & Pub Brew Pub $$/$$$ Yes Yes D/L Major 4 PO News Specialties & Tea Shoppe Coffee Shop $ L/B 4 Papa Guyos Mexican $$ Yes Yes L/D/B I 4 Bear Claw Donut Company Coffee Shop $ Yes L/B V/M NCLUDING 4 Quiz’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D V/M 4 Hardee’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D/B 4 Beaver Creek Saloon American $$ Yes L/D M/V

4 Pony Bar & Grill American $$ Yes L/D Major S 4 The Mint Bar Bar $$ Yes L/D Major HERIDAN 5 Holiday Inn Atrium Hotel American $$$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 5 Sugarland Mining Co. Fine Dining $$/$$$ Yes Yes D Major

5 Scooters Bar & Grill American $$/$$$ Yes L/D M/V , B 5 The Greenery Restaurant Family $$/$$$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major UFFALO 5 PrimeTime Steakhouse & Saloon Steak/Seafood $$ Yes D Major N 5 Arctic Circle Burgers $ Yes L/D Major ORTHEAST

5 Blimpie/Nach-O-Fast/Ice Box Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major , D 5 Burger King Fast Food $ Yes L/D M/V 5 Dadio's Pizza Pizza $$ Yes L/D Major AYTON

5 Golden China Chinese $$ L/D M/V A REA

5 McDonald’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B Major , G 5 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major ILLETTE 5 Taco John’s/ Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 5 Cowgirl's Subs and Deli Sandwiches $ L/D M/V

5 Wendy’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major , 5 Los Agaves Mexican $$ W/B L/D M/V AND 5 Las Margaritas Mexican $$ Yes Yes L/D Major N

5 JB’s Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major EWCASTLE 5 Arby’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 5 Taco Bell Mexican $ Yes L/D Major 5 Perkins Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 5 Subway Sandwiches/ $ Yes L/D M/V 7 Kimmerie's Restaurant Fine Dining $$$ Yes D Major 7 Tunnel Inn Dining Room and Bar Fine Dining $$/$$$ Yes Yes D M/V www.ultimatewyoming.com 199 Dining Quick Reference—Continued Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

7 The Waldorf A’ Story Eclectic $$$ W/B L/D M/V 8 Lake Stop American $$ Yes D/L/B Major 9 The Virginian Fine Dining $$$ Yes Yes D Major 10 Dash Inn Restaurant Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 10 Colonel Bozeman Restaurant Tavern Eclectic $$ Yes Yes L/D M/V 10 Hoot ‘n Howl Pub Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 10 The Breadboard Sub Shop Sandwiches $ L/D M/V 10 Duffy’s Bluff Café Family $$ Yes D/L/B Major 10 Hardee’s Fast Food $$/$ D/L/B Major 10 La Crocevia Family $$ Yes Yes D/L/B Major 10 McDonald’s Fast Food $ D/L/B Major 10 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ B D/L Major 10 Subway Sandwiches $$/$ Yes D/L M/V 10 Taco Johns Fast food $ Yes D/L Major 10 Winchester Steak House Fine Dining $$$ Yes Yes D Major 11 The Virginian Restaurant Fine Dining $$$ Yes Yes D Major 11 The Sagewood Gift Store & Cafe Soup & Sandwich $$ L Major 11 Creekside Café Family $$ Yes D/L Major 11 Deer Field Boutique & Espresso Bar Café Coffee House $ B/L V/M 11 Tavern on the Creek Homestyle cooking $ Yes Yes L/D M/V 11 Cowgirl Coffee Café Coffee House $ L/B Major 11 Country Delight & Daylite Donuts Family $$ Yes L/D Major Section 3 11 China Garden Chinese $/$$ L/D M/V 11 Tom’s Main Street Diner Homecooked $ L/B 11 Pistol Pete’s Family $ Yes L/B Major 12 Stagecoach Inn Restaurant Western $$ Yes Yes L/D/B M/V 12 South Fork Mountain Lodge Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 13 Domi's Pizza Pizza $$ L/D Major 13 Di’s Pizza Pizza $$ Yes L/D Major 15 Hong Kong Restaurant Chinese $$ Yes L/D Major 15 Long John Silver’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D 15 Burger King Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B M/V 15 Sugar Shack Family $$ Yes L/D Major 15 Lariat Café American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 15 The Great Wall Chinese $$ L/D Major 16 Coffee Friends Soup & Sandwich $ Yes B/L M/V 16 Domi’s Pizza Pizza $$ Yes W/B L/D Major 16 Hardee’s Fast Food $ L/D/B 16 Pizza Hut Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 16 Bailey’s Sandwich Bar & Grill American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 16 Chophouse Restaurant Steak/Seafood $$$ Yes Yes L/D Major 16 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 16 Granny’s Kitchen Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 16 Casa Del Rey Mexican $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 17 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 17 Village Inn Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 17 Tully’s-to-Go Fast Food $ B/L/D Major 17 Nightclub American $$$ Yes Yes D Major 17 Mona’s Café Mexican $$ Yes B L/D M/V 17 Perkin’s Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 18 Prime Rib Restaurant Steakhouse $$$ Yes L/D Major 18 Polar Bear Frozen Yogurt/Espresso Cyber Café Soup & Sandwich $ B/L 18 Pizza Etc. Pizza $$ Yes L/D Major 18 Breanna’s Bakery $ Yes L/B 18 Main Bagel Co. Deli $ B/L All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 19 Bootlegger's Family $$$/$$ Yes Yes B/D/L Major 19 Godfather’s Pizza Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 19 Las Margaritas Mexican $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 19 Papa Murphy’s Pizza Pizza $$ L/D Major 19 Perkin’s Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major 19 Pokey's BBQ BBQ $$ Yes B/W L/D Major 19 Taco Bell Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 19 Wendy’s Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major

200 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Dining Quick Reference—Continued Price Range refers to the average cost of a meal per person: ($) $1-$6, ($$) $7-$11, ($$$) $12-up. Cocktails: “Yes” indicates full bar; Beer (B)/Wine (W), Service: Breakfast (B), Brunch (BR), Lunch (L), Dinner (D). Businesses in bold print will have additional information under the appropriate map locator number in the body of this section.

MAP# RESTAURANT TYPE PRICE CHILD COCKTAILS MEALS CREDIT CUISINE RANGE MENU BEER SERVED CARDS WINE ACCEPTED

19 China Buffet Chinese $$ Yes L/D Major 19 Dairy Queen Fast Food $ Yes L/D Major 19 Applebee’s American $$ Yes Yes L/D Major 19 Arby’s Fast Food Yes L/D Major 19 Blimpie’s Sandwiches $ Yes L/D Major 19 Packard’s Grill Family $$ Yes B/D/L Major 19 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 19 Quiz’s Subs Sandwiches $ Yes L/D Major 19 Burger King Fast Food $ Yes L/D/B M/V 19 Old Time Pizza Pizza $$ Yes B L/D Major 19 Flying J Travel Plaza Family $$ B/L/D Major 19 Countryside Café Family $ Yes L/B 19 Kentucky Fried Chicken fast Food $$ Yes L/D 19 Tully’s-to-Go Fast Food $ B/L/D Major 19 Golden Corral Family $$ Yes L/D Major 19 Lula Belle's Coffee Shop Family $$ Yes L/D/B 19 Humphrey’s Bar & Grill Eclectic $$/$$$ Yes Yes D/L Major Section 3 21 Ponderosa Café Steakhouse $$ Yes Yes D/L/B Major 21 Charlie T's Pizza/Subs $ B B/L/D M/V 22 Aladdin Cafe Family $$ Yes B/W B/L M/V 23 Sand Creek Trading Post Steakhouse Steakhouse $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major 24 Aro Restaurant Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 24 Flo’s Place Restaurant American $$ Yes B/L/D M/V 24 Crispy Taco Mexican $ L/D 24 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 24 Higbee’s Restaurant Family $ Yes Yes B/L/D M/V 24 Log Cabin Café Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major 25 Devils Tower Trading Post Fast Food $/$$ Yes L/D Major 25 Devil's Tower KOA Cafe Family $$$/$$$ Yes B B/L/D Major 25 Crook Country Saloon & Dining Emporium Steakhouse $$ Yes Yes L/D M/V 26 Anchor Bar Bar $ Yes L/D M/V 26 Haven Bar & Grill Restaurant Family $$ Yes Yes L/D/B M/V

27 Donna's Diner Family $$ Yes Yes B/L/D Major I 27 Wildside Family $ L NCLUDING 27 Taco Time Mexican $ Yes L/D D/M/V 27 Subway Sandwiches/ $ Yes L/D M/V 27 Bryan’s Place American $$ Yes D/L

27 Rozet Bar & Grill American $$ Yes L/D V/M S 27 Hub Café Family $ L/D V/M HERIDAN 28 Cowgirl’s Subs Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V 28 Remy's Diner Family $$ Yes L/D M/V

28 Polly's Pub & Grub American $$ Yes Yes B/L/D M/V , B 29 Hi-16 Drive In Restaurant Family $ Yes L/D UFFALO 29 Old Mill Inn Restaurant Family $ Yes Yes L/D/B N ORTHEAST 30 Howdy Drive In Family $ Yes L/D

30 The Hop Restaurant Family $$ Yes L/D/B Major , D 30 Isabella's Italian $$ Yes L/D 30 Taco John’s Fast Food $ Yes Major AYTON

31 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V A REA

31 Fountain Motor Inn & Crystal Campground Family $$ Yes B/L/D Major , G 31 Flying V Campbria Inn & RV Campground Family $$/$$$ Yes Yes D Major ILLETTE 31 Hot Stuff Pizza Fast Food $ L/D Major 31 Pizza Hut Pizza $ Yes Major

31 Pizza Barn Pizza $ D/L M/V ,

32 Flying V Restaurant & Bar Family $$ Yes Yes L/D Major AND 34 Buckhorn Bar & Grill American $$ Yes D/L Major

36 Little Thunder Café American $$ Yes D/L/B M/V N 36 Subway Sandwiches $ Yes L/D M/V EWCASTLE 36 Wright Slice Pizza $$ L/D Major 36 Re Junction Café Family $$ Yes D/L Major 37 Edgerton Café Family $$ Yes B/L/D M/V 37 Whiners Family $$ Yes L/D Major 38 Invasion Bar & Restaurant Family $$/$$$ Yes Yes B/L/D M/V 38 Kaycee Sinclair Grab-n'-Dash Fast Food $ Yes B/L/D Major www.ultimatewyoming.com 201 Motel Quick Reference Price Range: ($) Under $40 ; ($$) $40-$60; ($$$) $60-$80, ($$$$) Over $80. Pets [check with the motel for specific policies] (P), Dining (D), Lounge (L), Disabled Access (DA), Full Breakfast (FB), Cont. Breakfast (CB), Indoor Pool (IP), Outdoor Pool (OP), Hot Tub (HT), Sauna (S), Refrigerator (R), Microwave (M) (Microwave and Refrigerator indicated only if in majority of rooms), Kitchenette (K). All Wyoming area codes are 307.

MAP # HOTEL PHONE NUMBER PRICE BREAKFAST POOL/ NON OTHER CREDIT ROOMS RANGE HOT TUB SMOKE AMENITIES CARDS SAUNA ROOMS

1 Eaton's Ranch 655-9285 $$$/$$$$ FB Yes V/M/D 1 Ranchester Western Motel 655-2212 18 $$ Yes P 1 Western Ranchester Motel 655-2212 18 $ OP Yes Major 2 The Passage Resort at Big Horn 751-7599 16 $$$/$$$$ Yes P/D/L/DA/K Major 2 Wigwam Motel 587-3861 14 $ K D/M/V 2 Foothills Motel & Campgrounds 655-2547 10 $ Yes P/K 3 Eaton's Ranch 655-9285 $$$/$$$$ FB Yes V/M/D 3 Best Western Sheridan Center 674-7421 138 $$$ HT/IP/OP Yes P/D/L/R Major 3 Americas Best Value 672-9757 39 $$$ CB Yes DA/M/R/P Major 3 Wingate Inn 675-1101 66 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/M/R Major 3 Alamo Motel 672-2455 19 $$ Yes P M/V 3 Budget Host 674-7496 15 $$ Yes P/M/R Major 3 Aspen Inn 674-9064 24 $$ Yes P/K Major 3 Bramble Motel & RV Park 674-4902 15 $$ Yes P/K Major 3 Super Saver Inn 672-0471 37 Yes P V/M 3 Trails End Motel 672-2477 84 $/$$$ CB Yes P/K/D/L Major 3 Americas Best Value 672-9757 39 $$$ CB Yes DA/M/R/P Major 3 Guest House Motel 674-7496 44 $$$ Yes P Major 3 Stage Stop Motel 672-3459 18 $ P/K 3 Motel 6 673-9500 67 $$/$$$ IP Yes P/DA/M/R Major 3 Sundown Motel 672-2439 23 $$ OP K/P Major Section 3 3 Super 8 - Sheridan 672-9725 39 $$ Yes P/M/R Major 5 Holiday Inn Atrium Hotel & Conference Center 672-8931 212 $$$$ IP/HT/S Yes P/L/D/DA Major 5 Days Inn - Sheridan 672-2888 47 $$$/$$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA Major 5 Holiday Lodge 672-2407 22 $$/$$$ OP Yes M/R Major 5 Historic Mill Inn 672-6401 45 $$$ CB DA/P Major 5 Apple Tree Inn 672-2428 24 $$$ S Yes P Major 5 Comfort Inn 672-5098 61 $$$$ CB HT Yes P/DA Major 5 Parkway Motel 674-7259 14 $$ Yes K/P Major 6 Days Inn 234-9125 59 $$ OP Yes P/DA Major 7 Wagon Box Inn 683-2120 6 $$$ HT Yes P D/M/V 10 Historic Bozeman Crossing Super 8 684-2531 48 $$ CB Yes P/D/L/DA Major 10 Best Western Crossroads Inn 684-2256 60 $$$ CB OP/HT Yes D/L/DA Major 10 Motel 6 684-7000 44 $$ Yes DA/P Major 10 Comfort Inn Buffalo 684-9564 41 $$$ CB HT Yes P Major 10 EcoLodge 684-2219 44 $$ Yes P/DA M/V 10 Wyoming Motel 684-5505 27 $$ IP K/P Major 10 Best Western Crossroads Inn 684-2256 60 $$$ CB OP/HT Yes D/L/DA Major 11 Folded Hills Guest Ranch & Cabins 684-5179 7 $$$/$$$$ FB Yes Major 11 T-A Guest Ranch 684-5833 6 $$$$ FB Yes Major 11 The Occidental Hotel & Virginian Restaurant 684-0451 14 $$$$ CB Yes P/D/L/K Major 11 Blue Gables Motel 684-2574 17 $$ OP Yes P/L/D/K Major 11 Big Horn Motel 684-7822 18 $$ Major 11 Historic Mansion House Inn 684-2218 18 $$$ CB Yes Major 12 Z-Bar Motel 684-5535 26 $$/$$$ Yes M/R/K/P Major 12 Arrowhead Motel 684-9453 13 $$/$ CB Yes DA/K M/V 12 Cowboy Town Motel 684-0603 19 $$ L/P/K M/V 12 Mountain View Motel & Campground 684-2881 13 $$ P/K 14 The Ranch at Ucross 737-2281 31 $$$$ FB Yes Major 15 Super 8 Motel 682-8078 60 $$$ CB IP Yes P/DA Major 15 Best Western Tower West Lodge 686-2210 189 $$$$ IP/HT Yes DA/P/R/M Major 15 Motel 6 686-8600 74 $$$ HT/S Yes DA/P Major 15 Budget Inn Express 686-1989 50 $$$ CB HT/S/IP Yes DA/P Major All Wyoming Area Codes are 307 16 Circle L Motel 682-9375 32 $$ Yes P Major 16 Comfort Inn & Suites 685-2223 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes P/DA Major 16 Arrowhead Motel 686-0909 32 $ Yes P/DA/K Major 16 Hampton Inn 686-2000 60 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA Major 16 Mustang Motel 682-4784 30 $$ CB Yes P Major 17 National 9 Inn 682-5111 80 $$$ OP Yes P/D/L Major 17 Quality Inn 682-2616 62 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes Major

202 Ultimate Wyoming Atlas and Travel Encyclopedia Motel Quick Reference-Continued Price Range: ($) Under $40 ; ($$) $40-$60; ($$$) $60-$80, ($$$$) Over $80. Pets [check with the motel for specific policies] (P), Dining (D), Lounge (L), Disabled Access (DA), Full Breakfast (FB), Cont. Breakfast (CB), Indoor Pool (IP), Outdoor Pool (OP), Hot Tub (HT), Sauna (S), Refrigerator (R), Microwave (M) (Microwave and Refrigerator indicated only if in majority of rooms), Kitchenette (K). All Wyoming area codes are 307.

MAP # HOTEL PHONE NUMBER PRICE BREAKFAST POOL/ NON OTHER CREDIT ROOMS RANGE HOT TUB SMOKE AMENITIES CARDS SAUNA ROOMS

17 Ecolodge Motel 682-4757 62 $$$ Yes P Major 18 America’s Best Value Inn 682-9341 76 $$$ CB HT/OP Yes DA/P Major 19 Clarion Western Plaza Inn 686-3000 159 $$$$ S/HT Yes P/D/L/DA/K 19 Holiday Inn Express 686-9576 83 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/P Major 19 Wingate Inn 685-2700 84 $$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/P/R/M/K Major 19 Days Inn 682-3999 130 $$$$ Yes P Major 19 Holiday Inn 686-3000 158 $$$$ IP Yes L/D/DA/P Major 21 Hulett Motel 467-5220 12 $$ Yes L/P Major 21 Pioneer Motel 467-5656 15 $$ Yes L/P/K Major 22 The Bunkhouse 283-3542 $$$ FB Yes Major 24 Best Western at Sundance 283-8300 44 $$$/$$$$ CB IP/HT Yes DA/P Major 24 Arrowhead Motel, Budget Host 283-3307 12 $$ Yes Major 24 Bear Lodge Motel 283-1611 37 $$ Yes P Major 24 Dean’s Pineview Motel 283-2262 12 $ Yes P/K M/V 24 Sundance Mountain Inn 283-3737 42 $$ IP P Major Section 3 26 Empire Guest House 756-9707 27 Rangeland Court Motel & RV Park 756-3595 10 $ M/V 27 Wyoming Motel, & RV Park 756-9529 6 $ P V/M 27 Moorcroft Motel 756-3411 30 $$/$$$ K/P Major 28 Weston Inn 468-2401 24 $$ P Major 28 Upton Motel 468-9282 13 $$ K/P 29 Auto-Inn Motel & RV Park 746-2734 21 $$ CB Yes P/R/M Major 29 Sundowner Inn 746-3344 22 $$ CB Yes P/R/M/K Major 29 Roadside Motel 746-9640 10 $ Yes R/M/P V/M 30 Stardust Motel 746-4719 16 $ Yes P/K M/V 31 Sage Motel 746-2724 12 $/$$ Yes P/R/M Major 31 Fountain Motor Inn 746-4426 86 $$$ OP Yes P/D/L/K Major 31 Hilltop Motel 746-4494 15 $/$$ Yes P/R/M/K Major 31 Mallo Camp & Motel 746-4094 16 $$/$ Yes K/P M/V 31 Morgan’s Motel 746-2715 9 $$/$ Yes P M/V 31 Pines Motel 746-4334 12 $$ Yes P/K Major I 36 National 9 Inn 464-1510 27 $$ Yes P Major NCLUDING 37 Teapot Motor Lodge 437-6541 20 $ P Major 38 Kaycee Bunkhouse 738-2213 4 $$ Yes P Major 38 Cassidy Inn Motel 738-2250 18 $ Yes P Major

38 Siesta Motel Country Inn 738-2291 13 $$ Yes D/P M/V S HERIDAN

NOTES: , B UFFALO N ORTHEAST , D AYTON A REA , G ILLETTE , AND N EWCASTLE

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