Spirited Discussion

From Cellar to Shaker Finds its Place in

By Kelly A. tepping up to the bar to request a juice and a syrup of Cabernet Sauvignon Magyarics wine-based drink used to prompt and cinnamon. He tops it with soda to S the bartender to offer one of a enhance the wine’s refreshing quality. few traditional suggestions: a “I guess there’s a reason people have Kelly Magyarics is , wine , fruit-filled or always sort of liked wine ,” says a wine and spirits a warm mug filled with and Heugel, who believes introducing wine writer and wine garnished with a cinnamon stick. While cocktails to the menu piques the interest of educator in the Washington, these options undoubtedly still have their wine consumers, who ideally will try one, D.C. area. She can be reached fans and their place on the menu, mixolo- and return to sip one another day. through her web site, gists today often pull from their racks Anvil’s bar menu runs 12 to 15 options www.trywine.net. without bubbles or fortification, with the long, with at least one wine-based libation intention to combine them with potent always available, and all drinks are priced spirits, bitters and other back bar ingredi- at $8. Heugel believes these cocktails dis- ents. Savvy operators are discovering that tinguish Anvil from the competition — with these vine-inspired cocktails can bridge the added benefit that they are cost-ef- the gap between wine lovers and spirits fective, especially if you use a wine that is enthusiasts. already a by-the-glass pour. “Wine cocktails often can be a tran- “Wine generally costs less than spirits, sitional cocktail for the wine drinker,” but can add just as much,” he explains. explains Robert Heugel, owner of Anvil Bar Using it in ways such as in Cabernet & Refuge in Houston, Texas. A guest who syrup adds depth of flavor without a lot of probably wouldn’t order a bourbon-based volume. Old Fashioned may venture to try his more approachable Warrant, in which the bour- Satisfying Flavor Seekers bon is softened a bit with rosé wine, lemon At the buzz-worthy, speakeasy-esque cocktail den PDT in New York City’s East Village, owner Jim Meehan features several wine cocktails on his menu, includ- ing Pegu Club founder Audrey Saunders’ Falling Leaves, made with dry Riesling, pear , honey syrup, orange Curaçao and Peychaud’s bitters. Despite the equal playing field — he prices all drinks at $13 for simplicity — Meehan has found that the fruit-forwardness of Falling Leaves has broader appeal than other wine drinks on the list. Meehan’s Against All Odds cocktail, served in a -rinsed coupe glass, includes Chardonnay, apricot and Clement Créole Shrubb, as well as one-and- a-half ounces of Bushmills . Those who aren’t fans of the latter, which shows prominently in the cocktail, may be won over by the other more easy-drinking The Storm Watch cocktail (this page) and the Easter Egg Hunt (opposite page), two balanced wine cock- additions. tails served at Belly Timber in Portland, Ore. Mixologists may employ a bevy of eclec-

34 Nightclub & Bar Magazine | A P R I L 2 0 0 9 tic ingredients to mix with wine, ranging from , rum and brandy to bitters and fruit juices. During the wine-cocktail creation process, ascertaining quality is comparable Wine should mingle and to judging a wine or any cocktail. integrate with the other “You want the wine to appear in a ingredients, rather than manner that enhances the cocktail in a overshadow or disappear balanced, interesting manner,” notes next to them. Heugel. It should mingle and integrate with the other included ingredients, rather than overshadow or disappear next to them. Chardonnay when you want a wine with With white wines, acidity level affects body and weight in your drink.” the final outcome in the cocktail glass. With red wines, bold and fruity bottles Heugel favors the overly citrus notes in a tend to blend well and hold their own when crisp Sauvignon Blanc, which he believes coupled with stronger ingredients. At Belly meld very well with juices and other spirits. Timber, a Portland bistro, bartender Bradley The Curve Cobbler — named for Anvil’s Dawson’s Storm Watch uses Barbera or “Thinking locally in Oregon means position on one of Houston’s busy streets a similar Spanish or Italian red as its base, thinking wine,” notes Swenson, who — combines the zesty white with Span- whose fruity notes stand up to the Sailor likes using local products, such as a Pinot ish brandy, balsamic raspberry shrub and Jerry spiced rum and Peychaud’s bitters. Gris-based syrup, which accentuates gin’s Angostura bitters. He adds sparkling water, serves it over ice floral notes while adding flavors of fresh His Uphill Climb is a twist on the classic in a tall glass with a cinnamon and sugar peach or pear. Italian wine cocktail the Bicicletta, which grilled plantain garnish and sells it for $8. Though traditionally people enjoy a cock- is traditionally made with dry , At PDT, Meehan uses Cabernet Franc in tail before the meal and sip wine during it, and soda. Heugel adds gin, lemon the Silver Sangaree, whose raspberry and hard-and-fast food and drink pairing rules juice, simple syrup and muddled mint cherry flavors and violet aroma work with are outdated, and mixologists all over the leaves and skips the soda. He explains, the addition of ruby port, Scotch country have been collaborating with chefs “It has a lot of complexity, but it is very and clove-infused simple syrup. to create cocktail-themed pairing dinners. refreshing at the same time. Sometimes it How exactly does the wine cocktail fit into is hard to get both.” Vintage Appeal a meal? Heugel recommends employing Kelley Swenson, bartender and spirits Wine-based drinks have the capacity to the same guidelines used for matching director of Portland, Ore.’s Ten 01, is also appeal to a wide range of guests. Heugel food and wine: white wine cocktails with partial to crisp, high-acid wines. When the finds that since wine is an ingredient with lighter foods and bolder drinks sommelier added a still white from Spain’s which everyone is familiar — unlike some with stronger dishes. Penedès region (known for Spanish spar- of the newer or exotic spirits on the market Dawson actually makes specific food and kler cava) to the menu, Swenson mixed it right now — these cocktails sell well. cocktail pairing suggestions for his menu. with aquavit, pineapple juice, simple syrup Dawson, whose home experimentation The well-flavored and plantain-garnished and lemon bitters to create her La Perla. led to the wine-based tipples he has on his Storm Watch partners perfectly with two She says the resulting cocktail has great menu (“I was making dinner for my wife dishes at Belly Timber: Fried Plantains with acid and unique sugar structures without and wanted something fun to drink while I Habañero and Pineapple Salsa, and Jamai- being cloying. cooked,” he confesses), markets them to can Jerk Chicken Wings. He recommends Time spent in oak often translates to patrons who enjoy trying new things. trying the herby, citrus-tinged, gin- and decreased acidity, smoother mouthfeel “You need to feel people out,” he Daw- Verdejo-based Easter Egg Hunt with a fresh and toasty, vanilla notes in a wine. Meehan son advises. “Some only like safety when it Cucumber and Fennel Bulb Salad. passes on white wines that have spent comes to their cocktails. It also depends on The wine cocktail seems poised to time in new wood. the bartender’s enthusiasm to sell.” At Belly continue gaining momentum. Meehan “Oak is not a flavor profile I’m looking to Timber, wine cocktails account for 15 to 35 believes, “With very few wine-based showcase in my cocktails, or in my wine percent of drink sales from week to week. cocktail recipes out there to work with, this choices,” he explains. Swenson disagrees Operators in close proximity to wine category is ripe for the picking.” Operators with this philosophy, however. country, where the grape tends to be inte- seeking differentiation may consider pop- “Since I am often blending wine with grated into daily life, may find wine-based ping more corks behind the bar. other higher-proof spirits or assertive ingre- cocktails an easy sell. Ten 01 is just 45 Although varying philosophies and mat- dients like citrus or bitters, I tend to look for minutes from the Willamette Valley, home ters of personal taste exist, only one defini- wines that are equally assertive,” Swenson to arguably some of the world’s best Pinot tive guideline exists. As Dawson advises, says, arguing, “Nothing beats a well-oaked Gris and Pinot Noir. “Only corked wines don’t work.” NCB

APRIL 2009 | Nightclub & Bar Magazine 35