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Nile Valley: to

Includes  Why Go? Beni Suef...... 165 If you’re in a hurry to reach the treasures and pleasures of Gebel at-Teir & the south, it is easy to dismiss this first segment of Upper Frazer Tombs. . . . .166 between and . But the less touristed parts Minya...... 166 of the country almost always repay the effort of a visit. Beni Hasan . . . . . 169 Much of this part of the valley is less developed than the other valleys but people here also have to grapple with the Beni Hasan to Tell al-Amarna. . . . 170 issues of modernity, with water and electricity shortages, and since the downfall of the Muslim Brotherhood, with Tell al-Amarna. . . . 170 sectarian tension and security issues. Tombs of Mir. . . . .173 However much a backwater this region might seem, it Deir al-Muharraq. . .173 played a key role in Egypt’s destiny as its many archaeolog- ...... 174 ical sites bear witness – from the lavishly painted tombs of ...... 176 the early provincial rulers at Beni Hasan to the remains of Akhetaten, where Tutankhamun was brought up, and the Abydos...... 178 Pharaonic-inspired of the early Christian period. Qena...... 180 Note: due to security concerns, research was conducted remotely by the author for this chapter, except for , Abydos and Qena.

Best Places to Eat When to Go ¨¨Koshary Nagwa (p168) Asyut ¨¨Dahabiyya Houseboat & °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm Restaurant (p168) 50/122 2.4/60 2.0/50 ¨¨Al-Watania Palace Hotel 40/104 1.6/40 (p174) 30/86 1.2/30

20/68 0.8/20

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Best Places to Stay 0/32 0 ¨¨Al-Safa Hotel (p177) J FDM A M J J A S O N

¨¨Al-Watania Palace Hotel Apr Sham el Aug Millions of Oct-Nov The ideal (p174) Nessim, the spring people arrive to touring time, ¨¨City Center Hotel (p166) festival, is cele- celebrate the with the light brated in style in Feast of the Virgin being particularly ¨¨Horus Resort (p168) the region. outside Minya. beautiful. ¨¨House of Life (p180) 4

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