LANDSCAPE STUDY of the ISLAND of CRES Local Development LOCAL DEVELOPMENT Pilot Project ISLAND of PILOT PROJECT “ISLAND CRES of CRES”

Home , Cres, Cres (town), Hvar, Krk, Lake Vrana (Cres), Lake Vrana (Dalmatia)

Local development pilot project

LANDSCAPE STUDY OF THE ISLAND OF CRES Local Development LOCAL DEVELOPMENT Pilot Project ISLAND OF PILOT PROJECT “ISLAND CRES OF CRES”

PROJECT IMPLEMENTED BY:

OTRA d.o.o.

PROJECT FINANCIALLY SUPPORTED BY:

Council of Europe

Ministry of culture

Primorje-Gorski kotar County

Town of Cres

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS This document would not have been possible without cooperation and contribution of all the stakeholders involved in this project: Institutions: Ministry of culture of the Republic of Croatia │ Ministry of environmental and nature protection of the │ Republic of Croatia │ Oikon d.o.o. │ 3e projekti d.o.o. Members of the coordination team: dr. sc. Tatjana Lolić │ dr. sc. Ugo Toić │ Tanja Kremenić, mag. geogr. │ Mirna Bojić, dipl. ing. agr. │ dr. sc. Goran Andlar │ dr. sc. Biserka Dumbović-Bilušić │ mr. sc. Ksenija Petrić, dipl. ing. arh. │ Višnja Šteko, mag. ing. prosp. arch. Narrators: Inhabitants of the island of Cres and experts involved in this project LANDSCAPE STUDY OF THE ISLAND OF CRES

Mentors: dr. sc. Goran Andlar, mag. ing. prosp. arch. Tanja Kremenić, mag. geogr. Miran Križanić, mag. ing. arh. Marija Borovičkić, mag. hist. art. et ethnol. et anthrop.

Council of Europe consultant Alexis Gérard, krajobrazni arhitekt

Executive team: Nikolina Krešo, mag. ing. prosp. arch. Marija Kušan, stud. prosp. arch. Ana Knežević, stud. prosp. arch. Anita Trojanović, stud. prosp. arch. Jure Čulić, mag. ing. prosp. arch. Mateja Leljak, mag. ing. prosp. arch. Dijana Krišto, stud. prosp. arch. Tanja Udovč, mag. ing. prosp. arch.

Cres, December 2015 4 CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION ...... 7 4.2. Landscape Unit Of The Town Of Cres ...... 30 1.1. Aims and scope ...... 7 4.2.1. The Cres valley ...... 32 1.2. Methods and procedures ...... 8 4.2.2. Hilly terrain of the Cres hinterland ...... 34 4.2.3. Coastal side of the Valun bay ...... 36 2. FACTORS FORMING THE LANDSCAPE OF THE ISLAND OF CRES ...... 9 4.3. Landscape unit of “zapadna banda ...... 38 2.1. natural features ...... 9 4.3.1. The high part of the Gerbin area ...... 40 2.1.1. Geographic position and location, shape and size ...... 9 4.3.2. Forested west coasts ...... 42 2.1.2. Geological formation and geomorphological characteristics 9 2.1.3. Hydrological characteristics ...... 10 4.4. Landscape unit of the Vrana lake valley ...... 44 2.1.4. Climate ...... 10 4.4.1. Vrana lake valley ...... 46 2.1.5. Soil types ...... 10 2.1.6. Vegetation zones and bio-diversity ...... 10 4.5. Landscape unit of the central pastoral plateau ...... 48 2.2. Anthropogenic impact ...... 11 4.5.1. Central rocky pastures ...... 50 2.2.1. Landscape refl ections of historical political circumstances .11 4.5.2. Barren pastures of the eastern coastal side ...... 52 2.2.2. Elements and specifi city of traditional sheep breeding .. 11 2.2.3. Recent history and current changes...... 12 4.6. Landscape units of Osor and Punta Križa...... 54 2.2.4. Traffi c connections and traditional routes ...... 12 4.6.1. Forested and indented coastal sides of Punta Križa ...... 56 2.2.5. Protected areas ...... 13 4.6.2. Central valley of Punta Križa ...... 58 2.2.6. Island of Cres in the eyes of the public ...... 13 4.6.3. Osor and the shallow bay ...... 60

3. ETHNOGRAPHIC STUDY OF SPATIAL IDENTITIES ...... 14 5. GUIDELINES ...... 62 3.1. Traditional formation and identity boundaries ...... 14 5.I. Final analysis of the condition and value of the Cres 3.2. “Modernity of tradition” ...... 14 landscapes ...... 6 2 3.3. Spatial dynamic and static ...... 15 3.4. Places of inscribed meaning ...... 16 5.2. Thematic framework for the contemplation of guidelines for 3.5. Utilitarian landscape as a place of identiﬁ cation ...... 16 managing landscapes ...... 6 2 3.6. Causative socio-eco system ...... 16 5.3. Measures for landscape management on the island of Cres ..64 3.7. Integrated cultivation of people and space ...... 17 5.4. Appendix - Map interpretation ...... 65

4. LANDSCAPE ATLAS OF THE ISLAND OF CRES ...... 19 6. LITERATURE ...... 66 4.1. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF TRAMUNTANA ...... 20 4.1.1. East Tramuntana plateau ...... 22 4.1.2. West Tramuntana faulted valley ...... 24 4.1.3. The central ridge with plateau Planis ...... 26 4.1.4. Coastal sides of the central ridge ...... 28

5 6 1. INTRODUCTION Experimental landscape study of the island of not completely modifi ed the landscape, function Cres was initiated within the Local Development and the overall image of Cres, but they are an Pilot Project (LDPP), a programme implemented introduction to visible tendencies of inter- by the Council of Europe and coordinated by the ruption in continuity and breaking with Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia. the past, i.e. with the knowledge and prac- The idea of the study was to encourage cooper- tices that were developed through mil- ation between various experts and stakeholders lennial cultivation of the island landscape. in assessing landscapes of the island of Cres, with Changes of the landscape are inevitable great focus on planning, protection and land- and necessary, but must be well contem- scape management in general, because this topic plated and directed in a way that spatial is not institutionalized in Croatia. The coordina- continuity is provided. Deciphering of the tion team (experts from different institutions processes and factors that conditioned historical and private studios and a consultant from the use and management of the landscape should be Council of Europe) and the executive team (stu- the lesson for future landscape management. dents and landscape architects guided by interdisciplinary mentoring team) joined forces and This paper contemplates and represents conducted a one-year study based on the model the landscape of the island Cres. All the that unifi ed approaches of French and Croatian landscapes and landscape characteristics school of landscape architecture, as well as geo- are depicted and represented, including graphic, architectural and ethnographic approach the natural and social factors that formed in landscape analysis and assessment. them, as well as social associations and preferences of the landscape. Preserved The study refl ects the principles of the Coun- nature in a form of seashores, Lake Vrana, cil of Europe’s two conventions: Framework dense forest vegetation, diversity of geo- Convention on the value of the cultural heritage morphologic forms that infl uenced land for society and the European Landscape Con- use organization logic, preserved histor- vention. Those principles indicate that a certain ical settlements, rich architectural heri- space should be recognized as an expression tage, complex dry stone wall structures of the diversity of a shared cultural and natu- of pastures and cultivable lots, remains of ral heritage. Furthermore, allowing public and rare communal techniques of forest and transparent insight into characteristics, values pasture management, unwritten history, and potentials of the area, should encourage the meanings and ties that the society has activation of the local community with regards towards landscape, new spatial interven- to inherited territory preservation. The Coun- tions, are only some of the recognized and cil of Europe promotes landscape as an integral described features within this landscape concept through which the area is analysed and study. presented. Tools used in evaluation are basic elements in identifying, developing and preserving landscape. These are the reasons why land- 1.1. Aims and scope scape is recognised as a valuable resource The main objective of this study is to elabo- and one of the main starting points for fu- rate guidelines for preservation and de- ture development - which is why this study velopment of the landscape of the island was implemented in the fi rst place. of Cres, within the LDPP development strategy. This entails exploring specifi cities and The island of Cres is standing before many condition of the Cres landscape, with focus on challenges. On one hand, there is the prevailing the qualities that should contribute to its attrac- abandonment of agricultural activities and leav- tiveness and competitiveness. Landscape study ing most of the territory subject to natural pro- of the island of Cres can allow articulation and cesses. Arable land has never had smaller surface, elaboration of the landscape role in long-term and animal husbandry is growing more extensive, policies of island development. Study does not which causes afforestation of pastoral valleys. provide a fi nal solution for landscape questions; On the other hand, there are developmental it is meant to serve as a platform for encour- challenges and spatial pressures caused by tour- aging dialogue between different stakeholders istic activities. Although it has not reached such that should fi nd interest in development and extent as in the rest of coastal Croatia, urban preservation of Cres landscape (experts, pub- zone of Cres and some natural sites are in the lic institutions, government bodies, etc.), and to fi rst stage of transformation under the infl uence demonstrate innovative methods and principles of the new construction. These changes still have of research. This study should be perceived as a 7 beginning of systematic approach to landscape tographic and wri en sources, photographs and refl ec ons on landscape uses diff erent methods study of Cres, entailing active participation of other relevant data, using GIS techniques, as well of abstrac ons in order to ar culate visually experts in spatial planning, protection of cultural as “hand drawing” analysis and presenta on. percep ve elements of singular landscapes. heritage, protection of nature and environment, Field research involved two fi eld visits (7 days Observing the space through primarily percep- rural development, etc. Furthermore, it should total). The study was conducted by a student ve, free and expressive media completes but also be used for the purposes of popularization and young landscape architects guided by four also disintegrates and ques ons accuracy of of landscape, within the local community, and mentors (a geographer, a landscape architect, an precise, technologically provided factographic methodologically as an example for other units architect-visual ar st, an ethnologist). The cen- methods. Alterna ve percep ve tools enhance of local administration and other areas that wish tral procedure is based on landscape character the fact that landscape is greatly observed and to assess and record its landscape. Described ac- assessment and it implies dis nct, recognizable explained through subjec ve and intui ve as- tivities and ideas represent a direct implementa- and consistent combina on of elements that pects. Specifi cally, quick terrain sketch (croquis) tion of the principles of the European Landscape make each landscape dis nc ve. In addi on to was the main tool of analy cal and visual data Convention. In summary, objectives of the land- elements stated in commonly accepted land- collec ng, as a means of achieving direct con- scape study of the island of Cres were to: scape character assessment defi ni on (Swan- tact with the landscape, but also of comple ng ● create a multi-disciplinary approach to land- wick, 2002), which include relief, geology, soil, and ques oning the photographic approach. On scape interpretation by incorporating different land use, vegeta on, fi eld and se lement pat- the other hand, for the purposes of landscape experts; terns, this study also includes history, landscape presenta on and analy cal maps, techniques of memory, tradi onal prac ces, and associa ve detailed block diagram sketches were applied, ● detect and map all landscape areas and de- aspects, social and ar s c representa ons. The used in analysis of all landscape areas. A less scribe their characteristics, condition, trends fi rst step in landscape character assessment is abstract isometric projec on method was used and problems; a synthe c analysis of numerous cartographic, in presenta on. Synthesis of experiences was ● research social preferences and forms of social spa al, and wri en data (combining GIS and conducted through making ’sensi ve’ maps of representation of the landscape within the lo- sketch mapping), and comprises classifi ca on landscape units where the main characteris cs cal community, tourists and experts; and mapping of landscape areas on two levels; were presented in the form of dominant combina ons of present structures – dry stone walls ● evaluate qualities and sensitivity of the land- higher level implies landscape units, and lower - as a key of understanding landscape use and scape; level landscape areas. The process of detec ng landscape units was based on combina on of its natural specifi ci es. For the purposes of in- ● present identifi ed landscapes through recog- relief forms, geology, soils and land cover, while terpreta on, features like texture, colour, trans- nizable “visual language”; landscape areas are based on combina on of parency, and spa al and linear distribu on of elements were used. ● provide guidelines for implementation of this relief forms on a more precise level, historical study within the island development strategy and current land use pa erns and, tradi onal Upon collection of all the data, each landscape and for preservation and development of all prac ses, etc. Ini al boundaries of separate ar- area was described and classifi ed, followed by determined landscapes. eas were discussed and corrected throughout landscape evaluation, i.e. trends, problems and the study, and were defi ned by insights revealed sensitivity analysis. Sensitivity of the landscape during fi eld and ethnographic research and visu- 1.2. Methods and procedures character implies assessment of the capacity of al interpreta on. the landscape character for the changes caused European Landscape Conven on states that: In the context of ethnologic interpretaƟ on, by development (new interventions and chang- “Landscape means an area, as perceived by tripar te model of research includes: a) ethno- es of use and land characteristics) but also by people, whose character is the result of the ac- graphic research and recording b) comparison abandonment (natural processes). This method Ɵ on and interacƟ on of natural and/or human and c) contextualiza on. Insis ng on a qualita- implies overlapping of three different value factors.” This defi ni on implies diversity and ve method of semi-structured interviews with systems (cultural, natural and visual) and a prob- subjec vity of perspec ves regarding landscape, the local community, life stories, unoffi cial and lem map. The problem map is an estimate of and the fact that the concept of landscape is not spatial problems and trends, based on gathering fi nal. In the context of diff erent perspec ves, unwri en history of the island, personal and collec ve memories were recorded. The main ob- insights deriving from description of landscape this study generates the idea of combined ap- areas, estimating a degree of succession of nat- proach to landscape assessment; in addi on to jec ve was to understand value systems, meanings and connec ons that the local community ural vegetation, preservation of rural complexes regular procedure, it incorporates ethnologic and settlements, and determining characters of and visual/ar s c interpreta ons. Ethnographic built towards landscape through genera ons (years, decades, centuries). In this perspec ve, new spatial interventions. The results include research provides insight into history, memo- recommendations for planning and management ries, social associa ons and landscape prefer- landscape is explained as a poli cal, economic, historical and emo onally created and eval- of Cres landscapes, and are illustrated by a map ences, while visual/ar s c approach contributes of guidelines for landscape management. to analy c contempla on and clarifi ca on of uated heterogeneous space of material and spa al iden ty and, fi nally, presenta on of vi- non-material values. The research of synchro- sual, percep ve and associa ve characteris cs nous - concurrent and parallel - stra fi es live, of landscape. Interdisciplinary approach used ambiguous and dynamic anthropogenic spaces in this study encourages equality and dialogue and underlines the unavoidable bo om-up el- between diff erent professions involved in ement in landscape assessment: importance of landscape research. Methods and procedures feelings, experiences, opinions, visions and ini- combined desk research and fi eldwork. Desk a ves of the local community. research involved collec ng and analysing car- ArƟ sƟ c interpretaƟ on in the aspect of analy cal 8 2. FACTORS FORMING THE LANDSCAPE OF THE ISLAND OF CRES

Island Cres – cultural landscape 2.1.2. Geological formation and Coasts of the island of Cres are relatively masked by natural landscape geomorphological characteristics young. The coastal relief forms of the island fol- The island of Cres is characterised by undulating low the insular relief. Abrasive action has had a If we accept the premise that the present land- ridge descending towards south. It was formed relatively small impact on the transformation of scape image represents its previous characteris- by tectonic activity (early Pleistocene) the island’s coast, due to resistance of carbonates tics as well, it is necessary to begin by analysing that elevated parts of carbonate surface to mechanical erosion. The northern part of the its formation. Numerous and extended factors (carbonate rocks), which were additional- island is higher, steeper and with slightly indented imply interaction of natural components and ly shaped by karst and fl uviokarst process- shore, while the southern has lower and more in- social processes. It is important to understand es1 (differential erosion and corrosion2). dented coast. Despite the tectonic predisposition that despite the fact that these characteristics The coastlines that delimit Cres, defi ning it as of the steep coasts, it is believed that their expo- are grouped and distinguished in the following an island, are the result of sea level rise after the sure to destructive force of the waves (generated text, they should not be considered as isolated end of glaciation. Depths of the Cres aquatorium by strong winds, primarily bora) have contribut- features or as a simple inventory, but as a con- do not exceed 100 meters. That indicates that ed to the formation of coastal cliffs. They can be nected causal sequence of events leading to the even in the recent past, this island was a part of found on the north coast of the island, between present landscape image of the island of Cres. the mainland, but after the last major glaciation capes Jablanac and Grota, which are exposed to (10 000 years ago) sea transgression separated “Bakar bora” and below Orlec, which is exposed to “Senj bora”. In many bays gravel beaches or 2.1. NATURAL FEATURES it from the mainland. Consequently, the island of Cres, as well as other accompanying islands, coastal plains (south side of the Cres harbour) are actually surfaced remains of relief eleva- have been created by the accumulation formed 2.1.1. Geographic position and location, tions, i.e., a continuation of the mountain from torrential fl ows from adjacent slopes. shape and size ridge of Učka. This explains why this island’s The main surface forms are sinkholes. Due The island of Cres is located in Kvarner bay relief, hydrology, vegetation, soil and geology are to its scaly structure, longitudinal faults, craggy and it is the northernmost island in the Adriat- similar to the mainland’s. composition and intense corrosion, this island ic aquatorium. It administratively belongs to the has a good foundation for the formation of Primorje-Gorski Kotar County and two towns, Karst is formed from the dissolution of soluble sinkholes. Carbonates formed both surface and the Town of Cres and the Town of Mali Lošinj. As rocks. The geological structure of the insular area underground relief forms. On the whole island a part of the Cres-Lošinj archipelago, it is situat- is dominated by sedimentary rocks, soluble carbonates: cretaceous limestones and dolo- of Cres 42 speleological phenomena have been ed between the east coast of Istria and eastern revealed so far (Buzjak, 1997). Kvarner islands (Krk, Rab and Pag) and the island mites of various types and resistance, which have, of Lošinj in the south. The distance between the through the processes of erosion and denudation, northernmost point of the island (cape Jablanac signifi cantly affected the creation of today’s relief 2.1.3. Hydrological characteristics 45°11’ N) and the southernmost point (cape (Stražičić, 1981). Compact and clean limestone The porosity of karst, unevenly distributed pre- Suha Punta, 44°36’ N) is 65 km. The western- can be recognized in a form of craggy ridges. The cipitation and frequent summer droughts are re- most point is the cape Prestenice (14°16’ E) two most distinguished cover the stretch from fl ected in the general dryness of the island, Niska to Barbin (north part of the island) and the and the easternmost cape St. Damjan (14°33’ E). so there is no possibility for water retention stretch on the Pernat peninsula from Grabrovica With the overall surface of 405,7 km2 it is the in means of rivers. There are only torrents - to Helm (west part). Sinkholes are formed due to biggest island in the Adriatic Sea. The island’s streams that occur during heavy rains, carrying strong erosion and the mixture of limestone and width is averagely 30 km, while its narrowest big rocks. They are hydrologically insignifi cant, dolomite. Bigger dolomite depressions have been part, at the pass Križić, is only 2-3 km wide. De- but because of the large force they gain, they can the factors of development for the town of Cres, spite the fact that Cres stands out among other create ravines on slopes ending in gravel beach- village Martinšćica and Lake Vrana. There are also es. Torrents in the southern part of the island Adriatic islands because of its NNW-SSE merid- deposits of bauxite, which are not in layers but ian direction, some parts of the island, especially are not so prominent because of the fl atness of in the form of irregularly shaped “pockets”. The the area. Different processes are characteristic northern and southern, follow Dinaric direction overall appearance of the island (land use, relief (NW-SE). That defi nes Cres as a part of the for this area - on a gentle slope southeast of formations, location of the settlements, appear- Osor postglacial elevation turned valleys con- arc bending from the meridian direction of the ance and vegetation cover) can be explained by mountain Učka towards the Dinaric direction taining brackish water into fi ve shallow “lakes” the geology of the area and the combination of of saline. There are several sources of drinking of northern Dalmatian islands (Slukan, 1992). In two types of carbonate minerals. water (wells), but the most important and the comparison to other islands, Cres is the biggest most abundant one is located in Piskel (south (larger by half a square kilometre than Krk), the 1 Fluviokarst is one of morphogenetic relief part of the Cres valley) around which, due to second longest (after Hvar) and the second high- types, and implies a complex of geomorpholog- brackish water, a small wetland micro-location est (after Brač) island in the Adriatic Sea. ic processes: corrosion, luvial erosion and slope processes. was formed. There are another fi fteen sources 2 Geomorphologic process of dissolving rock in on the island. Watertight sinkholes are a natural water is called corrosion. precondition for creation of puddles that were 9 also used as a source of water, especially for collision of Mediterranean and continen- which allows plants to survive during the dry, hot livestock. Lake Vrana gives balance to the gen- tal climate infl uences. That exposure creates and long Mediterranean summer. With some hu- eral aridity on the island of Cres. It is essential convective rain during summer (that’s why there mus, it is usually washed and accumulated in lower for today’s life on the two biggest islands of the are no extremely dry periods characteristic for regions and karst depressions. However, there are archipelago. It has been supplying the popula- Mediterranean climate) and penetration of cold not many large karst depressions in the form of tion with drinking water since 1946, when the air masses during winter, resulting in occasional fi elds. Areas of coastal brown soil cover most water system was starting to build. The lake is snow (mostly on the north part of the island). of the northern part of the island and are suitable the largest cryptodepression in Croatia with for forests of oak and hornbeam. global scientifi c signifi cance. Accumulation of Position of the island creates diversity in wind water in such large quantities is possible primar- exposure. It is a constant climatic element that Dolomite soils are predominant in the central ily because of its morphology (dolomites) and has a great impact on lives of islanders, and a part of the island. Erosion of dolomite rocks cre- tectonic factors. Lake water pressure, which is secondary infl uence on landscape formation. It ated them. These sandy soils are suitable for the higher than the pressure of the surrounding sea, is represented by northeastern and middle-east- growth of natural vegetation and for cultivation. prevents seawater from penetrating. Although ern steep and bare coasts, mainly without set- Numerous valleys were traditionally character- its volume is signifi cant, oscillations during tour- tlements. At the same time, the west coast is ised by vineyards. In the absence of fl at cultivable istic season endanger its underground aquifer partially protected due to already mentioned land, early farmers had to use terracing method (Tandarić, 2014). Today, research shows that the relief relations - high central ridge that blocks to retain shallow, slightly arable soils on dolomite lake is autochthonous, i.e. it is not connected to continental infl uence. The south part of the is- slopes. Soils of the terraces are therefore mainland resources of water. land is sheltered from bora, but it is more ex- largely anthropomorphic. Delluvial soils were posed to maritime infl uence. Other signifi cant formed by the recent deposition of erosive material from the torrents. They have mainly been used 2.1.4. Climate winds for people and vegetation are sirocco and mistral. Sirocco (southern) is the wind that creates for vineyards (share of rubble is greater than 50% Climate of the island is conditioned by its cloudy weather with heavy rains. Mistral is a wind so cultivation is not profi table). Wetlands and geographic location, arrangement of the that occurs because of uneven heating of land hydrogenic soils that are overgrown with surrounding land, confi guration and the and sea and brings a fresh breeze from the west reed can also be found in some areas, mostly in surface of the island itself and the infl u- during summer. Climate diversity is even more the south part of the Cres valley, slopes of Lake ence of the surrounding sea. Due to its geo- enhanced by the island confi guration. Consid- Vrana and cape Tarej, as well as the edges of salt graphic location on 45th parallel north, Cres is erable elongation of the island in N-S di- marshes, but since they are constantly under the defi ned by moderately warm rainy climate (class rection (65 km long) has divided the island sea, they cannot be used for cultivation. C according to Köppen climate classifi cation). into northern Cfb and southern Cfa class, According to the last standard reference period and it has directly infl uenced its vegeta- in Croatia (1961 - 1990), Cres is characterized 2.1.6. Vegetation zones and biodiversity tion cover. Signifi cantly wide central extension by two climatic types: south of village Vodice by Current appearance of the island’s vegetation decreased maritime infl uence in areas where to- Cfa type, moderately warm humid climate with cover is conditioned by: tal temperature difference is 35 °C. Climate has hot summer (the warmest month average tem- a great impact on landscape because it enables 1. Considerable elongation of the island in N-S perature ≥ 22°C) and the north part by Cfb, existence and distribution of vegetation habitats, direction, moderately warm humid climate with warm 2. Difference between high northern and low summer (the warmest month average tempera- as well as the most signifi cant type of managing - extensive sheep breeding, that would barely exist southern part of the island, ture is below 22°C) (Šegota and Filipčić, 1996). 3. The island’s position in relation to the neigh- Although there are disagreements connected to without the norm of 200 bright days a year, and 260 days with average temperature above 10°C. bouring mainland, accuracy of the terms, the types are commonly 4. Different exposure of the coast to bora and referred to as Sub-Mediterranean and Mediter- 5. Millennial anthropogenic impact. ranean climate3. Advocates of this terminology 2.1.5. Soil types Before humans substantially changed the appear- argue that the island predominantly belongs to Climatic conditions and petrographic (stone) Mediterranean climate (covering the area of Cfa) ance of the vegetation cover, the whole island was composition closely correlate with the layout of covered with oak forests (Stražičić, 1981). With and to Sub-Mediterranean, mostly present in the soil types and biodiversity of vegetation cover. In northern part of the island. Independent of the deforestation, animal husbandry was of special im- accordance with mainly limestone minerals, this terminology, characteristics of the seasons are as portance. It led to degradation of the original area is dominated by skeletal soils – rockery follows: hot and mainly dry summers, mild forest cover and almost complete devasta- that is not suitable for cultivation (Stražičić, temperatures, but windy and rainy (occa- tion of the central part of the island. 1981). They are sporadically sterile and com- sionally snowy) winters. Change of seasons pletely without vegetation (depending on the The forests have remained only in several places brings variable weather and rain, with springs proportion of rock base and loose soil in the but big areas of rockery, used for sheep graz- mostly colder than autumn, due to maritime in- fi ssures). Still, predominantly productive rockery ing, mainly replaced them. Seemingly barren fl uence during winter season. is overgrown with macchia and plants that sheep pastures and rockeries actually hide quite Due to its geographic location (compared to the do not graze (sage, milkweed, immortelle, etc.). rich and endemic fl ora (Jurkota-Rebrović, surrounding mainland), Cres is infl uenced by the Red soil (Terra rossa) is related to the limestone 2009). In total, around 50% of the island of Cres rocky ground and is widespread along the entire is covered by dry grasslands and rockeries. They island. It is cultivable and it is mostly found within are mainly used extensively - without artifi cial fer- 3 In order to avoid ambiguity, these terms will be sinkholes. Red soil is the most valuable because it tilizers and chemical compounds - and are there- used throughout the study. easily absorbs and retains water for a long time, fore characterized by signifi cant biodiversity. Right 10 here on these rockeries a fl ora with approximate- - Valorisation of landscape through history, 2.2.2. Elements and specifi cities of ly 1400 plant species has been developed (Sušić, - Landscape management today, traditional sheep breeding 2000). The island is specifi c for its large number of - Areas valuable for protection, There are around thirty villages on the island, but endemic and relict species. Due to microclimatic - Perception of the island in the eyes of the public. only one urban centre - the town of Cres variety of its northern and southern areas and its and it has survived general depopulation. Other eastern and western coasts, two vegetation zones 2.2.1. Landscape refl ections of villages mainly preserved their traditional char- can be differentiated: historical political circumstances acter - they are usually fortifi ed and gathered 1. Sub-Mediterranean The island of Cres is characterized by a while the shepherds’ dwellings are scattered. 2. Mediterranean long continuity of inhabitation. Although cul- In uninhabited, open areas, there are several tural remains from the Palaeolithic and Neolithic hundred abandoned chapels, shepherds’ Sub-Mediterranean zone is in climatic terms Ages are historically signifi cant, they do not help dwellings, villages, hamlets and neglected distinguished by lower temperatures in the win- to explain the present landscape image of the is- pastures fenced by millennial dry stone ter and a greater quantity of precipitation. The land. On the other hand, numerous hill forts that walls. Smaller anthropogenic elements like result of such climate is a brief period of summer are situated on the highest points of the ridge, and wooden latticed gates (lese), cisterns (šterne), draughts and a break of vegetation during the other establishments from the Bronze and Iron puddles and numerous forms made out of stone winter. Vegetation of the Sub-Mediterranean zone Ages - usually in the central part of the island and including dry stone walls (gromače), big prismatic in the lower vegetation belt (up to 250-300 masl) some signifi cant coastal points - do not only show stones used for reposal (pocivalici), stone heaps is characterized by a natural thermophile decid- the agricultural and marine orientation of the (menjici), dry stone walls terraces (barbakani) and uous forest of downy oak trees (Quercus pubes- former Illyrian-Liburnian population, but also ex- sheepfolds (mergari/strgari) (image 1), also belong cens) and oriental hornbeams (Carpinus orientalis). plain the creation of the current landscape. They to traditional architecture. Higher vegetation belt (above 250-300 masl) is started the process of deforestation and estab- characterized by forests of downy oak and hop lished today’s most important historic settle- These elements prove that the millennial hu- hornbeams (Ostrya carpinifolia). The stretch from ments: Beli, Cres, Lubenice and Osor. During man impact on nature had minimal negative the north part of Cres to the top of the ridge the Roman rule (the 1st century), some of the hill consequences. They teach us about the old Gorice belongs to the Sub-Mediterranean zone. forts became urban centres where traditional an- vanishing agricultural ways, local materi- Imaginary horizontal line pulled from the beach imal husbandry and agriculture became the base als and architectural experience passed St. Blaž (west coast), over the top Gorice to the of livelihood, and the core of island economy to down from one generation to another village Merag (east coast) represents the border date. Upon immigration in the 7th century, Croats (Duić-Kowalsky, 1997). between the two zones and is one of the stron- established their settlements in the central parts gest occurrences in Europe, when observed from of the island. As their main activity was agriculture, Without the context of the landscape they be- physiognomic and ecological aspect (Mavrović, they were searching for cultivable lands, which ex- long to, it is diffi cult to understand all of these 2011). That is why it represents the line between plains why many, mostly abandoned villages have forms: why they are located in certain places the Mediterranean and the Euro-Siberian region Croatian names (e.g. Filozići, Dragozetići, Pre- and what their relation to other elements is. (Avakumović, 2004). Mediterranean zone cov- došćica, Belej, Vodice…). Since the 11th century, ers central and southern part of Cres. The veg- the Venetian Republic tried, and partly succeeded etation cover consists of evergreen holm oak in establishing a rule in these lands. Venetian ad- forests (Quercus ilex). Currently, they are mainly ministration established a feudal relationship and destroyed and replaced with different types of started a systematic dry stone wall subdivi- vegetation – macchia, garrigue and rocky pastures. sion of the area. Such management remained In the central part of the island, there are planta- even during the Austrian rule (1814–1914) and in tions of maritime pine trees (Pinus Pinaster) and the period of Italian annexation, until 1945. Under black pine trees (Pinus Nigra). On most western these circumstances, a majority of the population maritime slopes, the land is cultivated with olive had to work for aristocratic families within shep- groves. The southeastern part of the island is cov- herds’ dwellings. It is assumed that the origin of ered with Mediterranean macchia consisting of shepherds’ dwellings can be traced back to the holm oak, strawberry trees (Arbutus Unedo), hol- Middle Ages. Upon annexation of the island to lies (poisonous, Ilex Aquifolium), common junipers Yugoslavia and nationalization, families that were (Juniperus oxycedrus), myrtles (Myrtus Communis) liberated from feudal relations, abandoned these and bay laurels (Laurus Nobilis). dwellings by 1960s (Jurkota-Rebrović, 2009), and sheep breeding became a secondary source of economic activity. The viticulture crisis and two 2.2. ANTHROPOGENIC IMPACT World Wars increased emigration in the early Human presence is not only revealed in terri- 20th century, leaving the island drastical- torial structure, but in the perception of the ly depopulated. Today the island has a whole landscape, as well. Although covered in vegeta- spectrum of elements of the original architecture tion, landscape of Cres retells a story of a man in which indicate that there has been a bigger pop- unity with nature and against it. In the following ulation oriented primarily to animal husbandry, text, anthropogenic infl uence is analysed through agriculture and fi shing. These elements represent Image 1. Antropogenic elements of sheep breeding these features: Cres as ethnologic landscape, i.e. the landscape tradition (shepherd’s dwelling, wooden traditional - Importance of island demography, of traditional skills. fence, dry stone wall, chapel, pond) 11 During the 12th century, when the process of to different administrations, or fence small karst estation, controlled release of cattle in the forest feudalisation of the island was completed, the holes and puddles within the pasture. Character- (grazing) and tree topping (pedalenje). Pedalenje organization of the island was determined by istic adjoining elements of communal pastures is a tree topping practice within the system of systematic subdivision with dry stone walls. Dry are sheepfolds (mrgari) and communal puddles, open pastures. The term derives from word “ped- stone walls represent the most prominent depicting representative examples of architec- al”, describing trees with thick trunk, knotty and element of the rural anthropogenic her- tural heritage. Accumulation of debris fi lls up the wide crown, because of controlled, periodical (ev- itage of the island. The walls differ in shape, fi ssures inside sinkholes and creates waterproof ery 10 -15 years) removal of its branches 2-4 m height and purpose. The purpose is essentially surface that consequently turns into a puddle. above ground. Branches were used as fi rewood, one: to facilitate or enable agricultural activities. Recreating the natural process, inhabitants cre- and the land around the barren trunk was soon The most representative example can be found ated ponds. Ponds that were used by people are overgrown by grass for sheep grazing (PPPPO around the town of Cres. New dry stone walls mostly near settlements and are fenced to pre- Tramuntana, 2003). Indirectly, due to depopulation would be made when the land had to be divid- vent access to livestock, and the other ones, for and abandonment of traditional cattle breeding, ed between sons or sold. On the west side of livestock, were usually placed inside communal the pastures were subject to natural succession the island (around Grabrovica) and on the east pastures or on the border of several pastures so (Juniper oxycedrus L.) and are not in the form of side (around Belej and Orlec) the walls were that more owners could use them. Rights to use bare rocks. Vineyards, terraces of olive groves and tall (sometimes taller than people) in order to these ponds are called ‘diriti’ (Mavrović, 2011). cultivated fi elds lose their previous function (im- protect the land and sheep from strong winds age 2). Landscape is changing and biodiversity is (bora). Where there was no fl at arable land, shal- Apart from architectural heritage, which is a di- decreasing. low soils on limestone and dolomite slopes were rect or indirect result of animal husbandry and used. These arable terrains were cleared of stone agricultural activities, even more signifi cant con- 2.2.3. Recent history and current debris, which was gathered in long stone piles sequence of long-term livestock grazing is the changes change of vegetation cover. Degradation of veg- and placed down the slope. Today they are still Current changes of anthropogenic landscape etation cover on karst lands is a historic process one of the most signifi cant landscape elements mainly refer to construction activities. The most and a result of intensive vegetation exploitation around the town of Cres. The precipitation signifi cant interventions in the last 20 years were and free grazing. Relatively mild climate and slight- brought loose soil down the slope, so the low- the construction of the Cres marina, realization ly hilly terrain shaped extensive sheep breed- er zones are more fertile than the higher ones. of water supply in Valun, extension of the main ing - sheep grazing without constant supervision When the vineyards and olive groves spread, road D100, construction of a wastewater treat- in the open, all year round. Moving sheep from many dry stone wall terraces - barbakani were ment plant, expansion of the urban part of the one fi eld to another enabled pasture regenera- built. Such terraces cover all the slopes around town of Cres towards north (construction of the tion. Thick forest cover existed only in areas (the Cres bay. Komunade or “communal pastures” industrial zone Volnik) and apartmanization of north and the south part of the island) where were used for sheep grazing by families who the residential part. There are no big production there were restrictions by the government or did not own enough land, and by shepherds that zones on the island. In economic terms, there the landowner. This means that the rockeries (in saved their private pastures for winter periods, are only business zones (trade, smaller manufac- the central part of the island) are a physiognomic and used communal for summer grazing. Use of turing plants – crafts, storage, services, utilities term instead of a fl oristic term and were always these pastures implied obligation of maintenance etc.) but the biggest share goes to tourism and of a secondary origin. The changes in vegeta- that included repairing demolished dry stone hospitality zones. The town of Cres is the only tion are therefore of anthropogenic ori- walls, clearing puddles and sheep shearing. It is settlement that shows urban appearance along gin, direct and indirect, constructive and manifested in the space as a bare and “unstruc- with few historic towns, which gained a special destructive. Recent changes (approximately tured” pasture, i.e. pasture without inner regular urban-rural character (Osor, Beli, Lubenice). in the last hundred years) affect a reversible parcellation. Dry stone walls within communal Other settlements and villages have mostly ru- process – landscapes enter a second phase of pastures mainly enclose spacious irregular par- ral characteristics. All these changes do not natural succession. The direct infl uence refers to cels to divide them from neighbouring managed make a drastic shift in developmental or activities related to animal husbandry and forest pastures (managed rotational intensive grazing aesthetic terms. The island still keeps a management, which include intentional affor- grounds) or divide communal pastures belonging high level of preservation of natural and cultivated landscape.

2.2.4. Traffi c connections and traditional routes The main state road D100 defi nes traffi c connections on the island of Cres. It extends in the north-south direction, from Porozine to Osor (58.1 km long) and continues to Mali Lošinj. D100 is connected to the ferry dock Merag (on the east coast) with the road D101. Most of the villages are connected to island’s main road by regional and local roads. Those roads are narrow and surrounded by dry stone walls, with occasional Image 2. Agricultural use of the surroundings of the town of Cres in the early 20th century (before the extensions that facilitate bypassing of cars. Such vegetation succession) Source: Old postcards roads are extensions to Beli, Lubenice and Punta 12 Križa. On the island, there is a network of walking - Kus pit (Vrana) – regional signifi cance, of rockeries, ruggedness is presented by breath- trails, forest, fi eld and olive groves paths. They are - Čampari pit – national signifi cance, taking vistas and cliffs, along with gravel beaches all visible on old Austro-Hungarian maps (image - All bigger puddles. on its western and southern parts. “Tranquil- lity and intact nature” are the words most 3). Few old paths have been converted into educa- According to the Act on the protection and frequently associated with the island’s ambiance4, tional eco-trails, as in the southeastern Tramunta- preservation of cultural goods, some areas be- and it is considered that tranquillity can even be na plateau and Pernat peninsula. Traditional paths long to the category of protected cultural goods. reached in the midst of the touristic season5. which connect the villages are usually passable, These areas are urban complexes (Cres, Beli, Focus on natural and intact aspects is specifi c marked and represent recreational zones. Lubenice and Osor), rural complexes (Predošći- because it is contrary to the process of the total ca and Orlec) and shepherds’ dwelling Batajna, anthropogenization of island. However, appear- 2.2.5. Protected areas while shepherds’ dwelling Grabrovica used to be ance of complete naturalness of the island is not under preventive protection. Furthermore, there An inventory of protected areas and those inaccurate, given the fact that vegetation suc- are protected archaeological sites and zones, as suggested for protection can serve as an cession has been occurring without disturbance well as separate buildings and complexes. indication of areas with high sensitivity, throughout the 20th century. It is often compared although the whole island can fall within to Lošinj because of former administrative and that category for the following reasons: 2.2.6. Island of Cres in the eyes of the physiognomic connections and touristic rivalry, - Sensitivity caused by porosity and per- public as well: “Lošinj is green, forested and surrounded by numerous coves with beautiful beaches frequently meability of the karst terrain, There are several categories within which we visited by dolphins. Cres, on the other hand, is tall - The whole island is protected by Natura can position the island of Cres, when we refer to and harsh, but both are beautiful.” 2000, its public presentation: - Nearly whole population is supplied by a) Formal education, The island of Cres is still insuffi ciently promot- the water from one lake. b) Tourism branding, ed in tourism sector, which is evident in tourism According to the spatial development plans c) Gastronomic heritage, agencies, whose numerous arrangements of trips (SDP) of the Town of Cres and the Town of Mali d) Frequent relations to the island group under to the coast rarely include Cres. Thus, the is- Lošinj, an oak tree in Sveti Petar (Tramunta- administrative jurisdiction of the Town of Mali land remains rather unfamiliar in the eyes na) is protected by decision on protection as a Lošinj. of the public and is represented as an area natural monument. Areas along the shore- yet to be explored. Educational context refers to the perception of line Fojiška – Pod Predošćica and Mali Bok island created at the beginning of formal educa- – Koromačno are protected by the deci- tion in the Republic of Croatia. By 2005, almost 4 Literature source 37 sion on protection as a special reservation every student “knew” that Cres is the second 5 Literature source 38 – ornithological. The whole island falls within largest island, and after the results of hydro- the Natura 2000 ecological network. Lubenice is graphical survey in 2005, that it is the biggest on the waiting list for inclusion in the UNESCO’s Adriatic island. Likewise, schools incorporat- World Heritage List. According to the same ref- ed the topic of griffon vultures as endangered erence documents (SDP), certain natural areas species and Eco-Centre Beli in charge of their are proposed for protection. Considerations for protection, into their curriculum. Other nation- special reservations were given to: ally relevant interesting sites include Lake Vrana - Salt marshes of Osor, as a special reservation as a natural reservoir of drinking water, village of regional botanic and zoological (herpetolog- Lubenice as a hill fort located on a cliff and a ical) signifi cance, cultural historical monument. - Extension of the existing ornithological reservations, as special reservations of botanical and As an integral part of the Mediterranean, the zoological signifi cance, island of Cres is frequently mentioned in the - Lake Vrana as a special reservation, context of Mediterranean gastronomy and Cres - Forests of Tramuntana, as a special reservation sheep, extra virgin olive oil and numerous of botanical and zoological signifi cance, culinary, aromatic and medicinal herbs are - Forests of sweet chestnut in Tramuntana area, often a part of various social and gastro-touristic as a special reservation of forest vegetation, events. Traditional vine cultivation is also some- - Forests of Punta Križa, as a special reservation times mentioned, but it was completely aban- of forest vegetation. doned in the second half of the 20th century. All these products are a result of specifi c biological Considerations for protection of signifi cant and landscape diversity that is promoted in many landscape (formerly protected landscape) were touristic publications and newspaper articles on given to saddle between peaks Sis and Barbin tourism. Reporters often share their fi rst im- and area around Lubenice. pressions, focusing on biodiversity of the island for the purposes of promoting the healthy island Considerations for protection of natural monu- environment, and landscape diversity within the ments were given to: Image 3. Segment of the island of Cres during Habsburg scope of recreational and adventure tourism. Monarchy (3rd Military Survey 1869 to 1887) - Lipica pit (Dragozetići) – national signifi cance, Publications promote karst terrain in the form Source: http://mapire.eu/ 13 3. ETHNOGRAPHIC Besides the predominant dry stone walls, the activities into additional income represents col- spa al con nuity of the island is characterised lective and family tradition, a habit, and a STUDY OF SPATIAL by sheep breeding that had signifi cant infl uence symbolic and emotional category. on island’s iden ty, its recognisability and econ- IDENTITIES omy. Func onal interdependence of these two The human and sheep impact upon the landscape An attempt to articulate a model of identifi cation elements has defi nitely contributed to their uni- formation is characterized by a thin causal bound- with space, its material and non material values, son distribu on. ary: humans adapt and allocate vast parcelled lots its historic, economic and symbolic dimensions to sheep, that are, in turn, a crucial factor in cre- through experience and awareness of the local Former poli cal, social and spa al context en- ating visually dominant and recognizable barren community, is based on personal confessions, life abled rela vely integrated and sustainable pastures. Anthropogenic forms within landscape, management of sheep breeding and resources stories, shared experiences, attitudes and visions covering most of the island, are predominantly in general. Therefore, approach to sheep breed- of the local inhabitants6. Along with recording defi ned by dry wall construction, natural and ru- ing implied not only meat produc on, but dairy factographic data, special attention was given to products and wool, as well, wherein the last two dimentary manners of land use, as a material and fl uid and layered imponderabilia of everyday life are completely lacking today. a resource with its specifi c character, possibilities - unwritten values and identifi cations, emotional, and limits. Although many of them still satisfy their personal or collective levels of conscience con- The crucial aspect, that has aff ected the divi- primary function, within the context of current nected to the landscape. A focus on synchronic sion within the island, is defi nitely its extreme value systems we perceive and categorize them aspect of the creation of island’s spatial identity longitudinal spa al context that in certain lo- as architectural heritage characterized by identity gives us insight into parallelism of modernity and ca ons generates a strong sense of enclosure, codes of specifi c cultural territories. traditionalism of everyday life. In the context isola on, oblivion or specifi city. In a stretch of the island landscape, anthropological from Tramuntana - the northernmost and the The quality of execution of traditional architec- places are recognized as spaces that gen- most forested part of the island, to Punta Križa ture, high level of functionality and absence of sig- erate identifi cation of the individual and - its southernmost area, also considered as “the nifi cant new initiatives and manners of space use, the collective and they are inscribed by least representa ve of Cres” - the space is dis- has completely annulled the temporal relation of history, relations and memory. integrated into numerous li le locali es, micro then and now that contributes to the high level ambiances and adjoining habitats. of specifi c island self-conservation.

3.1. Traditional formation and identity Several island loca ons, either by their infra- Taking a present way of life and radical abandon- boundaries structure or posi on, or by the local sense of ment of traditional trades into consideration, the belonging or not belonging or by their deterio- The quality of islandness of the space, its physi- appearance of Cres landscape remained relative- ra on, represent the “appendix” of the island. cal enclosure and isolation, has for centuries artic- ly preserved and autochthone in its modernity. ulated seemingly paradoxical simultaneous unity Those places are the peninsular area of Punta and division of the island of Cres. Its unity was Križa and eastern and western Tramuntana. The Contemporary sheep breeding is signifi cantly dif- stretch from Belej across Ustrine to Osor and enforced by the specifi c “economy of otherness” ferent and reduced in comparison to traditional. Punta Križa geographically belongs to Cres, but in relation to the neighbouring mainland. On the Besides absence of milk and wool production, administra vely to Mali Lošinj, which conse- other hand, diversity of its geomorphologic, cli- quently evokes a sense of aliena on from both, selling lamb is often considered unprofi table, de- matic and vegetative factors has encouraged strat- rather than a sense of belonging to one of them. manding and diffi cult, especially among younger ifi cation of internal social levels, including those generations. This does not only open a question that relate to the sense of belonging or not be- On the other hand, some areas stand out and of local and state policy and development strate- longing. Previous ethnographic research indicates are felt like “the most representa ve of Cres”, gies, problems and incentives or economic profi t- long presence of the Mediterranean way of life, like east Tramuntana and Beli, the town of Cres, ability, but it also questions signifi cant generational which is predominantly represented by agricultur- Lubenice or Orlec. However, it is diffi cult, almost change of mentality, expectations and standards. al activities in open space, as well as frequently impossible to discern whether this classifi ca on emphasized lifelong connection to the land: is a repeated pa ern of promo ng representa- Middle and older generation of islanders have onal places, as defi ned by the touris c self-pre- been breeding sheep for symbolic reasons only. “We were barely 13 years old when we started senta onal rhetoric, or if they really are places Even though many of them keep just a few cul va ng land with ma ock. My grandpa gave of spontaneous iden fi ca on. or several dozen sheep, their value is al- it to me: “Look at this ma ock, li le Frane, it’s so most memorial and transcends categories nice for you...” (F. K.) Numerous island micro locations and ways of of economic profi tability. life, like olive and vine cultivation, cutting and The lack of land and abundance of stone result- It is one emotional harmony between a man and ed in morphological, visual and cultural recog- exporting wood, fi shing or sheep breeding, have that sheep. Meaning, generations are used to having nisability of dry walls (gromače) used for parcel- for centuries defi ned local identity points and a sheep around them when they are born. Meaning, la on, enclosing land or puddles, building barns, boundaries, transposed in time, predominantly he doesn’t start thinking about sheep breeding when chapels, shepherd’s dwellings and huts and set- present to date. tlements in general. he is thirty. He is born with the sheep (...) More pre- cisely, children when they are already one, one and 3.2. “Modernity of tradition” a half years old, they already run after little lambs, 6 The research was conducted in 2015, predomi- Traditional way of life in a contemporary context it is already something that he is used to. And for nantly using the method of semi-structured inter- of the island primarily refers to agriculture (sheep the whole life cycle, a man is connected to it. (...) views. More than 40 participants, belonging to different age groups, professions and residences were breeding, fruit and vegetables cultivation). The mil- “Shoopee, here! “ - it is one call that we use for call- questioned. lennial and successive transfer of these primary ing sheep. Like: “come to me”. (...) And it comes to its 14 owner because it knows it will get some bread. That is the specifi c connection between the man and the sheep. (L. H.)

Generational shifts in the future may lead to complete abandonment of this trade on the island, MAIN NORTH - SOUTH and consequently have a wider causative impact, LONGITUDE which will be discussed in the following chapters.

3.3. Spatial dynamic and static SMALLER ROADS The network of island roads and paths is a linear matrix that reﬂ ects dynamics of spatial relations, their use, perception, evaluation and categoriza- tion, and as such can be considered on several PATHS/TRAILS levels. The map of island roads and paths (image 4) depicts a three-layered scheme of partially arbitrary inscribed lines (especially fragmented network of trails and paths), wherein emphasis is not on geographic validation but on stylisation and illustration of spatial dynamics regarding use and evaluation.

Three basic groups of island’s linear matrix of roads and paths:

1. The main north - south longitude. Dominant fast road that focuses interest, enhances infrastructure and accelerates the passage through the island. It is used by all local inhabitants, tourists, travellers, workers... 2. Smaller roads. Older, narrower, mainly asphalt roads that lead to smaller se lements, estates and bays. Local inhabitants, tourists and other visitors occasion- ally use them. 3. Paths/trails. Predominantly old and abandoned ﬁ eld paths leading to pastures, olive groves, puddles, bays, shepherds’ dwellings, estates. They are the most signiﬁ cant in terms of their complete length, age and distribu on. They are rarely used due to strong deruraliza on, dea- grariza on and centraliza on of ac vi es and life in bigger se lements. They are mainly used by local inhabitants (those who are s ll oriented towards agricultural ac vi es, younger recrea on- alists and hunters) and tourists (searching for ac- ve, adventure or sport tourism).

It should be pointed out that characters, possibilities and restrictions of these roads and paths often don’t fi t the framework of common valorisation and should be considered in wider spatial and social context. The main longitude can incorporate the function of stronger and faster connectivity, but also of additional centralization and marginalization of some island areas, as well as strengthen the perception of Cres as a transit zone for the mainland or Veli and Mali Image 4. Linear matrix of roads and paths Lošinj. In that aspect, together with ferry ports in Merag and Porozina, it belongs to one of the 15 strongest island non-places7. On the other hand, On the other hand, there are numerous loca- ons, residence, possession or survival. Their presently almost invisible and forgotten paths and tions whose morphology is characterized by daily mo on frequently implied greater distanc- trails have a potential, if not infrastructural, than of histories and memories of certain communities es (in terms of absence of centralized life and better symbolic connections, in terms of identity, and whose value lies in collective inscriptions of work) and detailed knowledge and percep on of memorial, historical and economic reconstruction history and landscape. In that context, ethnol- space as a territory - a place of “strategic” sig- of the island as a place of living, production and use, ogist Grga Frangeš emphasizes surroundings of nifi cance, possession, emoƟ onal and geograph- further discussed in the chapter on possibilities of the town of Cres, describing it the following way: ical belonging. Whether it was just going to olive groves or pastures, taking ox to puddles, wood integrated management. I generally fi nd those landscapes interesting, pri- cu ng, building chapels and barns, renova ng marily as immediate surroundings of a town, with paths, stone dry walls, etc., this space predom- 3.4. Places of inscribed meaning rather obvious aesthetic qualities; the network of inantly implied distances reachable by “human Without the necessity or possibility of their ul- paths along stone dry walls, olive groves, terraces. foot” and physical abili es, that mainly defi ned spa al rela ons in terms of everyday lives for timate defi ning and mapping, we have tried to There are numerous chapels, fi ve, six, each tied by a the majority of Cres inhabitants. Frequent cases fraternal community, a vow, and therefore it is a part roughly “feel” the present-day places as areas for of the oldest genera on on island, whose whole of historic complex of Cres. You cannot only engage relaxation and walking, that carry the potential of lives were physically ed exclusively to their attachment, inscribed meanings, personal experi- in preservation of a town, you must take into con- narrow territory of life and work, confi rm that ences or memories. Konec, an old path to Merag sideration the fact that the town history happened movement along wider island areas represent- and surroundings of St. Bartholomew, the path to in those olive groves. And there are so many trails of ed excepƟ on, and not the rule. St. Salvador and St. Blaž, the path to the guard- that kind. (...) I think that cultural landscape must house and the green lighthouse, the path to Helm be subject to a wide criteria, it is one area that rep- For new generations, larger spatial relations peak and Sis peak, paths through the forests of resents, shows interaction of people and landscape, are by far easier and faster to reach, and their that reveals some unique values and the way of life Tramuntana and forests of Punta Križa, the climb- mobility is growing more intense by the day, of its inhabitants; and it also an aesthetic criteria, leaving the domain of smaller local territories, ing trail next to Martinšćica and Porozina... are functional, on the third side, that it needs protection. which is partly analysed in the chapter with only some of the locations and paths that have three-layered roads and paths. Such linear been emphasized as unique, signifi cant, beautiful matrix clearly refl ects relations between former or pleasant. Those areas are usually inaccessible 3.5. Utilitarian landscape as a place of identifi cation and present space evaluation by which - a or unknown and the signifi cance thereof is not narrow space - a former territory of high determined by offi cial policies and frequency of Personal or collective inscriptions of meaning signifi cance gives place to wider space, use (representational places) but by spontaneous into the space open up a new question; to what beyond island boundaries. Bearing in mind intimate preferences and dynamics of visiting and extent and manner is the every day utilitarian the impossibility of complete and clear distinction valorisation. It can be said that identity and landscape a place of identifi cation within the between old and new generation, it is possible to symbolic value of the landscape primarily local community. It is important to mention, conclude that space use by older generation depends upon numerous locations charac- if not new evaluation systems and manners of implied specifi c smaller areas of qualitative terized by invisible inscriptions of personal perception, at least new tendencies of relating territorial signifi cance, while space use by signifi cance, therefore, it can and should be towards the space. They are primarily defi ned by younger generation implies dominantly considered and valorised through simulta- the sequence of generations within which it is extensive and quantitative impact. neity and interdependency of its material possible to follow radicalization of the then and and non material aspects. now distinction in shorter time intervals. 3.6. Causative socio-eco system Condi onally speaking, older genera ons have Islandness of Cres defi nitely enhances the sig- 7 Non-places are transit areas with no history, re- nifi cance and extent of causative dynamics, on lations or identity. They are opposed to anthropo- been building a strong rela on towards land- logical places. scape as a space of everyday life, work, obliga- biological, social and economic level. Local in-

Image 5. Olive groves in the town of Cres surroundings

16 habitants are well aware of that fact, as well as cially species that feed on carrion. dry walls (gromače)? Why would I do that when the whole “vicious” circle, enclosed by singular they’ll tear them down in a month?! (LJ. G.) changes in the nature. There is no biodiversity, but The role of island hunters as necessary wild boar. (L. H.) – is the concise and clear state- “stabilizers” of uncontrolled expansion of wild If a sheep was analysed through the prism of ment on the alarming state of island relations species has only formally been defi ned, while lo- the Cres trademark, its leitmotif, its cultural caused by uncontrolled movement and multi- cal inhabitants perceive their actions as severely and economic engine, the key potential or a plication of allochtone wild species– wild boar problematic, immoral and politically instructed. brand - it is possible to distinguish partially and fallow deer. The problems they cause have Nevertheless, it should be considered that there existing and partially imaginary scenario a great impact so every discussion about island are different motives for hunting and different re- of a complex network of relations deriving includes that fact. Ecologist Gordana Pavoković lations among hunters and hunting associations, from each other and producing meanings analyses biological relations the following way: as well as great oscillations between practices in a domino effect. Some of the causative social of profi table and elite hunting tourism and ag- and biological domains are: island demography, Exposed to vegetation succession, Cres pastures ricultural land and sheep owners that are trying material and non-material heritage, economy, cease to be pastures. Juniperus (šmrika) has com- to protect their estates and herds. There is also tourism, identity, landscape and biodiversity pletely “overfl own” them, having several conse- a record of parallel types of hunting in terms of (image 6). quences: the appearance of the landscape changes, illegal activity, exploitation, hobby or protection, biodiversity is reduced, due to the lack of pastoral wherein hunting drastically varies between private and public interest. 3.7. Integrated cultivation of people and surfaces sheep breeding vanishes, and decrease in space the number of sheep has a direct negative impact Ecological component refl ects on social relations upon the population of Eurasian griffon vulture. Fur- One of the positive and encouraging factors in and economy in a complex and thorough man- thermore, allochtone wild boars fi nd shelter within this ner. Abandonment of traditional trades like sheep the conscience of local inhabitants is defi nitely a habitat and have additional negative infl uence on the breeding and fruit growing has defi nitely increased relatively developed sense of necessity and ecosystem. (...) Animal husbandry was the reason for due to problems of lamb slaughtering, demolition possibilities of integrated management. In maintaining puddles. (...) Present sudden decrease in of stone dry walls, destruction of crops and pud- discussions relating to the future of the island, number of sheep due to overgrown pastures and the dles... - are only some of numerous demotivating encouraging young generations to return, devel- presence of allochtone wild species represents a loss aspects caused by the allochtone wild species oping and modifying touristic offer, protecting of a very important component of the ecosystem. That, as generators of island imbalance. material and nonmaterial heritage - there were in turn, negatively affects other components, starting suggestions implying integration of agriculture, with dung beetles, through plant species, birds, espe- And somebody says - why don’t you renew stone animal husbandry, tourism, family farms, hybrid

Image 6. Screenplay: Cres sheep

17 contemporary offers based on the rural charac- in the sticks, a village, defi nitely something... And they However, the other side of local awareness of the ter of the island, its specifi c resources and tradi- told me: “Whoa, if only you knew how beautiful it need for different development and management tion. The vision of island tourism, according to the was for us last night, we went back to those times of the island implies the problem of strong autochthone “Cres model”, is different than very when we were kids” - she says. “I enjoyed myself, passivity and inertness of the islanders. On successful and developed elite and health tourism looking only at the sky and smoking outside, here, the one hand, unsatisfi ed by the current condi- of the neighbouring Lošinj and is more similar to on the terrace, by the light of the candle. It was so tion, on the other hand “satisfi ed” that their life “the Istrian model”. It is characterized by differ- nice...” And I told them: “We can always make it for standard has never been higher, Cres inhabitants ent forms of “contemporariness of tradition” and you, but we can’t shut down public lighting, we turn describe their mentality, younger generations “economy of yearning”, described by Ines Prica: “a off the lights in the house, and that’s it!” (M. M.) and their static position in the following way: wish for temporary belonging interchanges with longing or compulsion for leaving, while the cycli- Agro-touristic households in function of The problem is that people are inert. That is a huge cal movement determined by the rhythm of global hospitality, housing and production zones pro- problem. Now he’s working in tourism, works really tourism in its background, necessarily leaves trac- vide required personalization of services and hard for four months, than he is free, goes fi shing es of occasional abandonment and solitude”. the potential thereof lies in the hybrid manner and so... (LJ. G.) of earning income and integration of sectors: The imaginary “Cres model” is economically agriculture and animal husbandry, catering and They don’t know, unfortunately, how to take a good close to sustainable development and integrated tourism (gastronomy, accommodation), educa- look around themselves. They wait for the passage management of quality, but also to contempo- tion (ethno-collections, workshops...). of time. I can’t see one serious initiative here among rary marketing needs and trends. Cres inhabi- these young people. Because there are simply no tants that base their present island economy on In a wider context, these types of earning in- funds to invest in anything. And then he stays on tourism and hospitality zones, are aware of come can have a positive impact on tendencies what his parents left him. Meaning, he lives in that the fact that the island needs new forms, not just of deruralization, deagrarization, abandonment parents’ house, deals with those sheep that his par- of touristic offer (“soft” adventure and sport, of villages and lands, abandonment of tradition- ents left him, doesn’t invest anything and if he has eco-adventure, gastro-ethno-tourism...), but also al ways of living and earning income, forestation some job on the side that, sort of, goes... But that is of management in general: and pastures overgrowth, changing landscapes all, from today till tomorrow. (L. H.) and losing visual identity of the island, aging of In my opinion, to manage one household, and make the population and departure of the young. Cres Besides “internal”, there are also numerous a story out of it, I think that such a village would live. inhabitants often create them in a form of offi cial “external” problems in managing island, using Agricultural family farm is a perfect model for it. And model of small family farms (OPG). resources, progress and protection of identi- now you take one family to manage such agricul- ty and tradition. They come “from above” and tural farm.... that way leaving of young families for If we go back to described distinction of former- are connected to inappropriate, irregular or the mainland is avoided. (...) Agriculture and tourism ly omnipresent qualitative territorial feature of non-implementable laws and administration. The combined - I think it is a winning combination. (S. F.) certain landscapes and contemporary tendency most representative examples include unclear of extensive and quantitative spatial dynamics legal-ownership relations and cadastral frag- My goal is that in that olive grove, to sell olive oil, and managing manners, agro-touristic house- mentation. The passive synergy of “internal” and that visitors from camp go for a walk, that a path to holds and similar forms can be observed “external” problems greatly dictates current life olive groves is constructed; and that the guest that through their potential as a middle point and appearance of the island, usually through the passes by comes inside the olive grove and buys oil. between extremes of valorisation and framework of recognizable island status quo and Agro-tourism. (D. J.) landscape management. all of its positive and negative aspirations. Marketing experts record tendencies where Image 7. Catering, Podol “information society” gives place to “society of experience and imagination”, and new buyer/ tourist seeks activities that incorporate “high emotional content”. Cres in a function of potential island-product defi nitely satisfi es new marketing needs, and creation of these contents is achieved on different levels; from unconscious, instinctive or spontaneous to planned and clearly articulated.

I will never forget it, in ‘95. There was a storm, something, especially before they renovated that electric- ity, we were constantly cut off in Belej. You have no more, have no telephone, you don’t have anything any more. And I had one visit, they’re from Italy. Now, what am I going to do... and nothing, I gave them candles, to their room in the bathroom, candles all over the house, out on the terrace. And now I in the morning, not saying anything... what will happen now, what will they say - where did they come, somewhere 18 4. LANDSCAPE ATLAS OF THE ISLAND OF CRES

1. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF TRAMUNTANA 1.1. 1.1. East Tramuntana plateau 1.2. West Tramuntana faulted valley 1.2. 1.3. The central ridge with plateau Planis 1.4. Coastal sides of the central ridge

2. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE TOWN OF CRES 1.4. 2.1. The Cres valley 2.2. Hilly terrain of the Cres hinterland 2.3. Coastal side of the Valun bay 1.3. 1.4.

3. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF “ZAPADNA BANDA” 2.1. 3.1. The high part of the Gerbin area 3.2. Forested west coasts 2.3. 4. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE VRANA LAKE VALLEY 2.2.

5. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE CENTRAL 3.1. PASTORAL PLATEAU 5.1. Central rocky pastures 5.2. Barren pastures of the eastern coastal side 4.1.

3.2. 6. LANDSCAPE UNITS OF OSOR AND PUNTA KRIŽA 5.2. 6.1. Forested and indented coastal sides of Punta Križa 5.1. 6.2. Central valley of Punta Križa 6.3. Osor and the shallow bay 5.2.

6.3.

6.1. 6.2. 6.1.

19 4.1. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF TRAMUNTANA

LANDSCAPE UNIT OF TRAMUNTANA:

Landscape areas:

East Tramuntana plateau

West Tramuntana faulted valley “It is those, we call them lihi. They are small arable lots, where man dug out stone, built dry stone wall The central ridge with plateau Planis fences to get few squares of land. And now when you see how many there are, how much stone he had dug Coastal sides of the central ridge out to get 5 squares of land, it’s incomprehensible...” (L. H.)

“It’s rockery out here, so the rockery dictated where dry stone walls (gromače) went. (...) some had, I think it was inherited, I think from father to son and so. Some were richer, some poorer, it means some had more parcels and some less. Mainly, it was, sort of, one standard, one measure and it was called ovcapaši, they call it hectare nowadays, and then it was ovcapaši. “(L. H.)

Forested coast Overgrown sinkholes Rockery Forests along the edges Forests of the larger valleys WE

Cross-section of the landscape unit of Tramuntana 20 IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL SENSITIVE MAP EXPERIENCE

 Dark, secluded, forested and almost continental ambiance, uncharacteristic of island  Small cultivated pastures and settlement complexes in contrast to tall dark forests  Prevailing sense of naturalness and abandonment of traditional elements  Distinguished rural complex Predošćica  Dominant elongated ridge divided by stone dry wall to its bare and forested side  Scattered vistas of the surrounding sea and mainland

21 to the coast. Due to increased forest exploita- Scenery tion in the past, there are numerous paths made Thick forests and specifi c vegetation dominate of stone blocks that were used to facilitate wood this area, creating impressions of dark and transport to the coast. Although a natural ele- enclosed space, similar to continental landscape. ment, these forests originated from former for- The overall atmosphere is enhanced by est pastures. Traditionally, land use was based on occasional snow during winter periods. Such agro-silvo-pastoral system, according to which atypical ambiance has attracted new alternative forest management implied topping trees taller contents, including open art museums and than 2-3 m (pedalenje), and the undergrowth spiritual activities. Scattered pasture clearings was subject to cattle grazing. Such land use was and settlement complexes surrounding based on sinkholes as its primary agrarian ele- shepherd’s dwellings, puddles and sinkholes give ment (nowadays they are rarely active, but still balance to the prevailing impression of vastness very visible), which is evident in dry wall fences and seclusion. The only linear corridor consists and cultivated gardens and small arable plots. of roads and transmission lines, which reveal This agro-silvo-pastoral land use was connect- narrow forest openings. Higher points without ed to numerous shepherds’ dwellings owned dense vegetation offer panoramic vistas. Edges by landowners, but they are mainly abandoned of coastal sides reveal views of Rijeka and the nowadays. surrounding sea, while the western side is characterized by views towards and from the Architectural heritage, settlements and village of Beli. paths Prehistoric settlement of Beli, shepherds’ dwell- 4.1.1 East Tramuntana plateau ings and other rural complexes bear witness The far northeast of the island, locally referred to traditional population oriented towards to as Tramuntana, is characterised by high dy- developed animal husbandry. Although its stra- namic karst relief with sinkholes, dominated by tegic location on a cliff 130 m above sea level tall deciduous forests, architectural heritage rep- reveals views that are convenient for observing resented by shepherds’ dwellings and a network maritime routes, Beli is nevertheless economi- of old forest paths. cally oriented towards its hinterland. It is characterized by compact medieval core with parish Relief church and the surrounding square. The bay below Beli includes a beach, a camping site, several The area is predominantly characterized by residential and hospitality facilities and a former dynamic sloping plateau stretching between harbour used for loading bauxite and wood 200 and 400 m above sea level (masl). The sea supplies from island’s inland. There are also two surrounds its northern and eastern side, while smaller settlements with only a few permanent the central island ridge that lowers down into residents: Sveti Petar and Ivanje. Like Beli, Sveti the plateau encloses its western and southern Petar is perched on the upper rim of the coastal parts. Its specifi city is represented by numer- side. The entrance to the village is specifi c for ous sinkholes, some reaching 100 m in diame- its protected natural monument, a 400 years old ter, and they create small separate ecosystems downy oak tree that was recently halved by a under the infl uence of the Sub-Mediterranean thunderbolt. Village Ivanje is located within the climate. Two types of coastal zones can be dif- forest area. ferentiated within the area. The northernmost part (between capes Jablanac and Grota) is Historical maps give insight into a dense inter- characterized by poorly developed shores with twined network of paths that are mainly impass- high coastal cliffs, created mostly by tectonic but able and are subject to new purposes nowadays. also by abrasive force of the waves, generated by The paths that traditionally connected villages the so-called “Bakar bora”. The southern coast of Tramuntana are now marked with eight ed- is more indented, with beaches created by the ucational eco trails. Artistic sculptures engraved accumulation formed from torrential fl ows and with verses are placed on perceptively interest- submerged valleys from adjacent slopes. ing spots along the trails and are harmonious with the forest, valley or shepherds’ dwellings Vegetation cover and land use in the background. Dry stone walls are an im- Large forest surfaces dominate this area. Ex- portant feature of the landscape structure, and posed to continental climate, Tramuntana forests their organic pattern derives from topographic comprise complexes of high deciduous trees like characteristics of the area. downy oak, sweet chestnut, turkey oak, elm, oriental and hop hornbeam, extending all the way 22 High and dense sub-mediterranean forests Big and complex shepherds’ dwellings

Steep coastal sides with cliffs Historical settlement Beli situated on the cliff Large sinkholes

23 tures, represented by pastures enclosed by dry walls, sporadic small clearings within the forests, grass undergrowth below trees and beaten paths used for the cattle. The area outside the dominant forest cover with scattered little clearings comprises few elongated valleys and their traditional agricultural purpose is represented by the dry stone wall parcellation, and even more by the developed small rural complexes with settlements Filozići and Dragozetići.

Settlements and paths There are three settlements within this area. Settlements Dragozetići and Filozići are located above cultivated valleys. Although authentic matrix and architecture represented by compact character with the church in the centre are preserved, new construction is compatible with the ambiance. Together with adjacent valleys, they enclose rural complexes with predominantly neglected and inapproachable agricultural areas. Dragozetići village is located at the top of the 4.1.2. West Tramuntana faulted valley coastal side, with western orientation and terraced structure, while Filozići village is unique This landscape area is somewhat similar to east because of its location deep within the forest. Tramuntana; both are equally forested (the same Porozina, a village with origins relating to an old forest complex stretches through the eastern lighthouse, is situated near the shore. Village ar- part), both have numerous sinkholes and a high chitecture lost its traditional and historical fea- plateau. However, due to its more indented pla- tures and is mainly defi ned by holiday houses. teau and a clear physical separation by the main The state road passes through the central part ridge and its orientation towards west coast, this of the landscape area, connecting these villages landscape area stands out as a separate unit. and the surrounding area with the rest of the island. Relief Scenery The area is surrounded by the sea on its northern and western side, while the central island Predominant high vegetation defi nes the image ridge forms its eastern border. A sequence of of this area; it is forested and natural, but at the parallel valleys, ridge slopes and a dense network same time almost impassable and inaccessible. of sinkholes characterize its undulating relief. Contrasting complexes of small pasture clear- The main tectonic structure has a NW-SE direc- ings defi ne it. Villages, as its fundamental gravity tion and it is aligned with longitudinal faults that elements opposed to spacious wilderness, create form the largest Tramuntana valley (1 km long) tamed cultivated “oases”. Despite its spacious- and the parallel ridge that extends from Halm ness, forest cover encloses views, allowing only peak (431 masl) to Veli Črni peak (582 masl). The a glimpse of the winding road passing through area has western exposure, and its coastal side is its central part. A walk along old paths that tra- high (up to 250 masl), steep and scattered with ditionally connected settlements with pastures torrential fl ows ending in gravel beaches. Pregra- evokes a sense of history. On the other side, the jena bay (below Dragozetić) and Stara Porozina westward orientation opens vistas of coastline, bay are especially distinctive within the area. sea and Istria, and the northernmost peak offers views of north Kvarner and Rijeka, which is a ”Here, they say ‘pedal’ for a tree, but Vegetation cover and land use unique characteristic of Tramuntana area. a pedal is the upper tree that is being cut. Now when you will go by the main road The higher eastern part belongs to thick tall Sub-Mediterranean deciduous complex of Tra- back, you will see a bump and it grows. muntana, which consists of downy oak, hornbeam They were always cutting it, the upper oriental and hornbeam hop trees. The western half. And that is the way the forest was part is mainly infl uenced by natural succession of preserved. Otherwise, if they were cutting juniper fouling (Juniperus oxycedrus L.). Although down all the tree, there would be no forest subject to natural succession of vegetation, these today. That was the feeling (...) yes, that was surfaces are extremely extensive (forest) pas- life. (R.R.) 24 High and dense forest of Tramuntana

Sinkholes surrounded with dry stone walls and vegetation

Settlement above the cultivated valley

Steep coast intersected with ravines Elongated pastures with dry stone walls

25 wall enclosing it. Extremely large and deep sink- Scenery holes were traditionally cultivated. A small elon- This area is not perceived as a unit, but a gated cultivated valley defi nes the central and complex of different subunits, evoking different the narrowest unit. Together with the settlement impressions. An elevated symmetric central, Predoščica and the surrounding rocky pastures, almost inapproachable ridge, divided between its characterised by elongated square parcellation, bare and forested side by dry stone wall along it encloses characteristic rural complex. The the path to Sis, characterises the fi rst impression. third unit is the ridge itself. Its base is defi ned by Opposite the high ridge, as a gravity point of the regular dry wall structures of former managed area, distinguished and accessible Predošćica pastures, and a specifi c dry wall along the ridge with its gentle valley and the surrounding barren indicates a possibility of communal pasture at its rocky pastures reveals open vistas of the sea and cusp. The area was also signifi cant for bauxite the mainland. The peak at the road extension and wood exploitation. Wood was mainly used Križić is characteristic for its sea views of eastern for heating and construction purposes. and western side of the island. Completely separate unit Planis creates different, hardly Settlements and architectural heritage accessible and unfriendly ambiance with views Cultural and historical heritage of the area is rep- of sinkholes in the middle of the forest. The fact resented by its paths (especially the Napoleonic that Planis is separated from the neighbouring trail that connected Cres and Porozina), prehis- area by a massive dry stone wall emphasizes the toric hill fort at the peak Sis, shepherds’ dwell- border between two completely different forest ings Bubnji and Krušovica and the village Pre- habitats. doščica with its very recognizable (distinguished 4.1.3. The central ridge with plateau and exposed) location. Predošćica comprises the Planis village complex and cultivated elongated valley. Its semi-compact structure comprises ten tradi- The central ridge area together with adjacent tional stone houses. The parcellation of the valley plateau Planis represents the highest and the follows irregular organic pattern of gardens and narrowest part of the island. pastures enclosed by stone dry walls that are mainly abandoned nowadays. Other anthropo- Relief genic structures, apart from Predošćica, include The limestone ridge, following Dinaric direction, shepherds’ dwellings on the west slope of the that together with plateau Planis stretches all the ridge (Bubnji) and at the bottom of Velo Gračišće way to Cres bay defi nes this area. It is divided (Krušovica). The state road passes through the into subunits by three passes. The northernmost central part and extends in eastern and western block Orline-Gorice-Sis (higher than 600 masl, direction at the pass Križić. the highest part of the island) extends into lower and narrower Barbin-Velo Gračišće ridge, with longitudinal fertile valley Dol located near the top of the ridge. The narrowest block is extended into plateau Planis with several peaks above 500 masl and numerous sinkholes.

Vegetation cover and land use This area is defi ned by moderately warm rainy climate with continental characteristics, evident in its vegetation; lower northern parts of the ridge and the valley are predominantly covered with deciduous forest and garigue units of downy oak and oriental hornbeam while the tops, the pass and the plateau are mostly barren due to exposure to frequent wind gusts. As an excep- tion, there are larger units of artifi cially planted black pine above the village Niska and in the southeastern part of the plateau (afforestation under French and Austrian administration). Vege- tation cover and land use are defi ned by this subdivision of relief units. Plateau Planis is a singular unit that was traditionally used as a communal pasture, which is represented by the massive dry

26 Peak Sis and Gorice (highest peak of the island)

Saddle Križić - narrowest part of the island

Mixed Mediterranean Central ridge and sub-Mediterranean forest Sinkholes on high plateau Village Predošćica

27 estation process is the result of sudden decrease St. Salvador’s church and shepherds’ dwellings in of forest exploitation during ‘80s in 20th century. Veli Bok and St. Blaž. East coast is covered with impressive thick forests, especially around Merag village and Merag Scenery cave. North of Vodice and along the scree, at the The area is linear and elongated, enclosing both bottom of the eastern side of the pass Križić, the sides of the island. Impressive vistas of the coast landscape is defi ned by areas of rocky pastures. are displayed from the higher points of the ridge. West coast is covered with lower vegetation and A cultivated peak at the 45th parallel on the its most representative example, a rocky pasture main road reveals views of the east coast and in the fi rst phase of vegetation succession of pi- Merag bay and Merag cave. Panoramic views of oneer sorts of immortelle and juniper (Juniperus east and west coast open next to the road ex- oxycedrus L.), is located under the pass Križić. tension Križić. The main impression of the area is The coastline under plateau Planis is covered characterized by its extreme cliffs that transcend with macchia and holm oak. Specifi c remains of a a sense of force of natural processes, inacces- dense network of dry stone walls near the pass sibility and inhospitality. The main accent in the Podkrižić are approachable by a long path along area is represented by Merag cave. torrential fl ows, starting at the pass Križić.

Settlements and cultural heritage There are two villages in this area, Merag and Vodice. Merag is a coastal village located at the base of a steep slope that creates an amphithe- 4.1.4. Coastal sides of the central atre around the bay, itself oriented towards the ridge north and the ferry port. The village centre is situated on a small plateau at the bottom of the Coasts of the central ridge are located in the valley with some arable soil. An old winding path, north of the island. The area comprises east and wide enough for vehicles, traditionally connect- west coast of the central ridge in the stretch from ed Merag with Cres, while today it is used only Veli bok bay to St. Salvador’s church on the west for recreational purposes. It passes the cemetery and from Žalići bay to Kosminj cape on the east. and St. John’s church, as well as the remains of the church and the hill fort of St. Bartholomew. Relief Village Vodice is located at the bottom of a steep The area is defi ned by ravines on steep slopes slope and it comprises only several longitudi- ending in poorly developed shores, enclosing the nally aligned houses. Its origin is connected to a central area on its northern and eastern side. nearby well, a fact confi rmed by its name. Several Coastal steepness produces strong contrast barns and remains of the fences around tradi- within the relief structure of the area, reaching tional pastures and cultivated plots are located as high as 480 m above sea level. The prominent in the valley at the bottom of the village. Apart southeastern shore is subject to the structure from already mentioned churches around the of the upper plateau Planis. Steep slopes on the village Merag, this area is characteristic for its eastern side are covered with torrential fl ows ending in gravel beaches. Merag cave represents a specifi c geomorphologic structure defi ned by big dimensions (upper rim of the abyss is 200 m above its bottom, and its circumference is 1200 m). It was formed by precipitation of large underground caves in dolomite rocks. Numerous coastal caves with various shapes and dimensions are mostly connected to deposits of breccia.

Vegetation cover and land use The area is mainly subject to natural succession of vegetation with no signiﬁ cant human impact - only small areas are used for pastures. Vegetation cover gradually increases in north-south direction. A dividing line between deciduous and evergreen, i.e. Sub-Mediterranean and Mediterranean vegetation is represented by the 45th parallel passing through the area. The predominant affor-

28 Vegetation succession on steep pasture Merag pit rockeries (immortelle and juniper)

Steep ravines

Steep, hardly accessible coastal sides Gravel beaches

29 4.2. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE TOWN OF CRES

LANDSCAPE AREAS:

The Cres valley

Hilly terrain of the Cres hinterland

Coastal side of the Valun bay

“It’s hard to work here. You have to do it by hand, the terrain is rough. I think that Cres people really love those olives again, “Me and granny, we’d go at 2 am, so at 4, 5 in the morning those old olives, because that old olive is... people say that olive is we’d be set to shear 10-20 sheep and then at 11 come home. It’s a mother, and vine a girl.” (Valun inhabitant) done, that was your day and not to go at 11 and then... It took 2 hours on a donkey, like you were a cowboy along these old paths. I knew those paths, I’d walk them in the middle of the night without moonlight, and I’d still do it.” (D. K.)

Forested coast Olive groves around town of Cres Town of Cres Neglected olive groves under Merag pit vegetation succession

Cross-section of the landscape unit of the town of Cres 30 IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL SENSITIVE MAP EXPERIENCE

 Amphiteatrical, spacious and visible area of enclosed bay  Steep, unapproachable and forested bay sides  Vast and dynamic relief mosaic of small wetlands, forest vegetation and abandoned fragmented dry wall parcels (barbakani)  Anthropogenic spacious bay sides: preserved traditional elements in a form of olive groves fenced by dry walls and old town core  Pastel facades of the houses in the town of Cres and the painted dock

31 Cres olive groves are nowadays famous for their Scenery extensive character and combined agro-pastoral The area is visually defi ned by large proportions, purpose, since they are used for cattle grazing but also by a sense of isolation enhanced by that keeps the soil clean from weed. Olive groves steep slopes on its sides. Preserved historical elon higher altitudes and in areas distant from the ements in a form of olive groves fenced by stone town are abandoned and overgrown with natu- dry walls and old town core are the basis of its ral vegetation, and even alpine pine can be found of spatial identity. Further from the town, the near the shore. The south side of the Cres valley zone of olive groves displays its full strength. It is is defi ned by specifi c and sensitive micro-locality revealed in cultivated and clear parcels with high Piskel, comprising characteristic shallow, sandy olive trees, megalithic stone dry walls and en- and fertile bay convenient for vegetable growth, closed paths. The whole area gives an impression and wetland habitat with its specifi c vegetation. of mosaic spaciousness, visible from most points on the main road; Starganac peak, water supply The town of Cres path to Valun and Napoleonic path towards Pre- The town of Cres is located in the central došćica. Ambiance is visible from “within” as well, lower part of the valley, next to the coast. It is because olive groves are passable, accessible and organized around its historical core (from the cultivated. Panoramic views of the town harbour times of Venetian administration) that encloses surrounded by houses in different colours and the main bay in a shape of a square block, with the painted dock are revealed from Dražica bay. irregularly fragmented matrix. It is followed by A pleasant promenade along the bay, in a stretch zones of newly built houses and holiday houses, from the green lighthouse to Gavza bay, repeat- a newer industrial zone and spacious separate edly displays new views of the opposite side of camping site. Those areas do not interfere with the valley. 4.2.1. The Cres valley the ambiance of the historical core, but they do divide once functional and structural unity of the The defi ning element of this area is its anthropo- town and its agrarian zone. The town is nowa- genic landscape, with low submerged valley and days mainly oriented towards tourism, which is the coastal town surrounded by dry wall terrac- evident in its expansion along the coastline and es of olive groves. in numerous touristic facilities that block the views of historical facades. Relief The boundaries of the Cres valley are defi ned by a geomorphologic form of submerged valley, forming an amphitheatre around the coast. The relief is continuously descending towards the seashore, with different inclines (from just a few to 100 %). These conditions create a closed and protected complex that facilitated development of the biggest island town, and the biggest homogenous agrarian zone, as well.

Vegetation cover and land use Land use is predominantly deﬁ ned by olive groves that are planted on dry stone terraces along the slope, from its highest parts all the way to the sea, enclosing the valley and the town. Long history of olive cultivation is evident in preserved traditional parcellation and dry wall fences around olive groves. Depending on the incline of the slope, the area is deﬁ ned by regular terraced groves and irregular fenced clearings, with megalithic outer and smaller inner dry walls. Systematic subdivision bears witness to their initial purpose - vine cultivation during vine conjunction. Dry wall network is intertwined with regular network of old paths used by people, cattle and vehicles. Some dry walls are being removed in order to extend existing roads or to build new ones to enable passing of cars. 32 Large areas of olive groves on dry stone wall terraces Abandoned olive groves Forest advancing over the olive groves

Town of Cres, its historical, residential and apartment zone

33 served its pastoral purpose, indicated by a vast The area is connected by the main island road irregular pattern of parcels fenced by dry walls bypassing it in the north-south direction, and by and somewhat rare vegetation (recently com- its extension towards the ferry port and village pletely bare). This area is specifi c for its scattered Merag. Both villages are connected to Cres by oases of karst depressions used for agriculture old paths paved with stone pebbles and enclosed and sheep shelters. Spacious area extending by larger stone blocks, today used for recre- south of the Merag-Cres road all the way to ational purposes. village Loznati is overgrown with high vegetation, hiding vast surfaces of fragmented dry wall Scenery parcels (barbakani) oriented towards the sea. Extremely complex dry wall structure of this They are probably plots cultivated during the area is almost incomprehensible within the vine conjunction. By the distinguished intensity space due to abandonment of agriculture and of its dry wall structures this area stands out in vegetation succession. The fi rst visual impression comparison to other Cres areas, or any other is therefore characterised by the forest cover, area for that matter. The third unit comprises the “naturalness” and dynamic terrain. There are no area between Loznati and Orlec, specifi c for the panoramic views from inland. Short views from complex structure of its dry walls, wherein reg- Krušćica bay and long views from the cape Tarey ular barbakans are intertwined with oval fenced characterise the area. Particularity of the cape sinkholes and square pastoral parcels. These starts with the path through the tall forest, cre- structures are equally overgrown and therefore ating impressions atypical for the karst island, incomprehensible in the landscape. and ends with pointed, almost separate form, covered with marsh vegetation. It reveals views Settlements of nearby island Plavnik and Velebit mountain. In- 4.2.2. Hilly terrain of the Cres There are two settlements within the area, teresting micro-localities of local and historical hinterland Loznati and Krčina. It is believed that their names character are predominantly situated along mac- are connected to traditional trades: grapevine adam paths, and are represented by stone dry This area represents an interactive zone within and the complex of adjacent clearings. They are walls enclosing pastures and agricultural parcels, which it is possible to detect all typical island both in the hinterland, perched on hills above sheepfolds (mrgari) with wooden latticed gates activities and succession of juniper forest (Juni- little valleys. Village Loznati comprises around (lese), ponds with great biodiversity and aban- perus oxycedrus L.), as a direct consequence of thirty houses, many of which have lost their tra- doned shepherds’ dwellings. They can also be abandonment of pastures. Peninsular character, ditional architectural characteristics, because of associated with arable karst depressions that are indented relief and southeast orientation to- contemporary materials used during renovation. strongly contrasted to the surrounding forest. wards the sea distinguish this landscape from all Small structured gardens and orchards surround Sporadic panoramic views towards east coast other areas. it. Traditionally functional rural complex that en- and islands open from the Cres-Merag road. capsulated the wide belt of mixed agricultural Relief land is almost unrecognizable today. Village Krči- The area is defi ned by limestone, slightly wavy na comprises only ten houses. plateau that continuously descends towards the sea. Light undulation is defi ned by the interchange of the ridge (peaks from 190 to 370 masl) and the valleys, and the high energy of the terrain is increased by sinkholes and alluvial torrents within the coastline. A distinguished fault valley in NW-SI direction connects village Merag and deep valley Krušćica. Laid coastal side with east and southeast exposition is dissected by torrents that sporadically create hidden gravel beaches.

Vegetation cover and land use The whole area is deﬁ ned by tall vegetation (forest and macchia), combined with the remains of vegetation suitable for grazing or with abandoned terraces and clearings. Diversity of stone dry wall structures indicates extraordinary complexity of land use in this area, which can only be seen on old aerial photographs and historical cadastral maps. In the north, a distinguished peninsula (the area of Veli Kus and Mravinac) pre- 34 Large area of Pastures surrounded with advancing forest Macchia Torrent ﬂ ows “barbakani” overgrown with forest and macchia

Mixed forest Ponds and cultivated sinkholes Settlement above the coastal side with adjoining neglected cultivated area

35 Architectural heritage and settlements Gospe od ružarija and Palac house in Valun and St. George’s chapel. Parallel to the coast, along Valun is a small picturesque fi shing village hidden the whole area, a macadam path (water supply in Dovica bay (its antecedent village of Bućev is line) connects Valun and Cres bay. located at the plateau above Valun). The central area of the settlement is linear and dense along Scenery the coast, while its smaller part is scattered among olive groves on the hillside. The econo- The bay area is secluded, but big, very spacious my was traditionally based on olive and vineyard and visible from the points lined up at the local cultivation, fi shing and wood export, while now- road. One of them is peak Carpe Diem, locat- adays inhabitants are mostly oriented towards ed above the central part of the bay, which of- tourism, which is evident in renovated apart- fers the best panoramic view of the coast and ment facades and gardens. The area is dominated the bay. It displays balanced image of the space, by tall houses, narrow stepped paths and streets specifi c for the interchange of strong contrasts decorated with Mediterranean plants. Above the of forested cliffs and the sea, voluminous relief cape Pernat there is Grabrovica, an extremely and sea surface. Thick vegetation cover, strong valuable shepherds’ dwelling complex composed relief energy and sea views evoke a sense of of master’s fl at (palac) and shepherds’ and lock- naturalness. Nevertheless, remains of stone dry smiths’ dwellings. Its ground plan reveals all the walls still dominate the scenery, with sporadic features of the town. Although extremely valu- glimpses of active agricultural parcels. Shepherds’ able, Grabrovica is abandoned and is deteriorat- dwelling Grabrovice opens views of the town of ing. The shepherds’ dwelling Barbarova Draga is Cres and east coast of Valun bay. about 90 m off the coast, in the bay of the same name. Olive groves below were renewed. Oth- er culturally relevant sites are the parish church 4.2.3. Coastal side of Valun bay This area comprises forested coastal slope and gravel beaches of the largest bay on the island. Its longitudinal reach creates a saddle directed towards north, connecting two capes, Križice and Pernat.

Relief This area is deﬁ ned by a steep coastal cliff, enclosing the bay in a V shape (Valun bay is genetically a large submerged dolomite valley). Numer- ous torrential ﬂ ows created beaches and coastal plains along distinctive cliffs, especially at pointed capes like Pernat, Crnikova and Buc.

Vegetation cover and land use Characteristic landscape composed of numerous terraces indicates that the land was traditionally cultivated with olive groves and vineyards. Old aerial photographs reveal the original structure of terraces, represented by the regular parallel pattern of stretches and squares of dry wall parcels, that interchange dependent on the incline and the initial growing culture (it is presumed that initial terracing of the terrain occurred during vine conjunction, and the regularity thereof indicates that the purpose was viticulture). Such land use is evident only in the remains of the terraces overgrown with thick forest of holm oak and macchia. Some of the abandoned vineyards have been revitalised, but due to diffi cult approach and steep terrain, they did not expand, so there is no signifi cant infl uence upon landscape. This predominantly natural landscape includes only one village, Valun. 36 Remains of the dry stone walls Renewed old path A picturesque fi shermen Hidden beaches Mostly inaccessible around the bay and rare active and tourist village with two side of the bay olive groves gravel beaches

37 4.3. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF “ZAPADNA BANDA”

LANDSCAPE AREAS:

The high part of the Gerbin area

Forested west coasts

“They all say it’s beautiful. Yes, it’s pretty, views are pretty, air is clean and healthy. But the hard life (...) People used to cut all of this, it was clear, we had everything here ... “ (Lubenice inhabitant)

38 Osjetilno doživljajna karta

IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL SENSITIVE MAP EXPERIENCE

 Extremely steep and unapproachable coast with secluded coastal settlement  White gravel beaches and scree in contrast to mixed forests within the cliffs  High panoramic views of open sea  Insular and isolated peaks with abandoned and archaic villages  Western exposition, sunsets that colour the landscape into a spectrum of orange and intense red shades

39 lowest parts, larger valleys with adjacent slopes Several complex stone traditional houses, in its were used as terraced surfaces of arable land. original form, completely subject to vegetation, They were enclosed by fragmented dry wall pat- defi ne shepherds’ dwelling Bertulčići. There are terns and were the basis of development of rural two more shepherds’ dwellings nearby: Veli Po- complexes (villages with surrounding agricultur- dol and Vršići. al areas). They are mostly deserted nowadays or used as pastures. Scenery Enclosed by the sea and the lake, in addition to Settlements and old paths its “elevated” position, this area appears insular Smaller rural complexes Pernat, Zbičina and Mali and isolated. Due to poor interconnections and Podol are located along the eastern rim of the diversity of relief and vegetation, the area can be valley. They are semi-compact, perched above divided into two units: northern and southern. cultivated valley, characterised by various pat- South part is somewhat lacking in vegetation and terns of parcellation. Pernat is the most indented has greater relief energy, therefore better visibil- settlement within the area. It is characterised by ity. It is easy to distinguish different patterns of the central square with the church at the en- dry wall structures and contrasts between karst trance of the village, with streets extending from elevations and fertile valleys (north of Grmov). that point. Traditional matrix and architecture There are also powerful spatial contrasts rep- are preserved, but the houses have obviously resented by bare and forested areas and fertile been abandoned. Zbičina is also characteristic enclosed valleys that are most representative for its authentic (deserted) architecture. How- in this area. The area is defi ned by views of val- ever, facades and dimensions of recently built leys, sea and lake, and it is recognisable for its 4.3.1. The high part of the Gerbin apartments are discordant with the ambience. village Lubenice. It gets more enclosed, isolated area Mali Podol is the smallest village comprising only and concealed towards north. Narrow enclosed several houses. Traditional architecture dom- paths open only inland views, characterised by This area’s unique insular character is represent- inates, and the existing touristic facilities are details of vegetation, dry wall structures and ed by its elevated terrain that is almost com- harmonious with the surroundings. Lubenice is wooden fences. Impressions of the north part pletely enclosed by the sea and the lake, while the village that stands out by its dimensions, lo- are best represented by villages Zbičina and Per- the small settlements with adjoining cultivated cation, architecture and history. It is located on nat with their surroundings. valleys located within vast pastures reveal its a narrow elongated ridge that collapses towards purpose. the sea on the western side, and its eastern side extends into abandoned fertile valley. It is Relief a compact settlement with the central square The area is defi ned by the top of the hillside at the entrance of the village. It has completely block comprising elongated ridge (with its high- preserved its traditional urban-rural structure est peak Helm at 483 masl) and parallel spa- and as such is on a tentative list of UNESCO cious dolomite valley at the bottom of the ridge World Heritage Sites. Recognizable elements of (Podol) extending along the eastern side of the its cultural heritage are chapels, prehistoric hill block. Northern area (the top of Pernat peninsu- forts and traditional stone piles on elevations. A la) is fl at with numerous sinkholes, while the area narrow road that is fenced by dry wall for its next to Lake Vrana has more undulating char- most part connects all of these villages. The same acter, evident in the interchange of its valleys, road connects north and south part (towards slopes, and more indented cliffs towards the lake. Grmovo), but is not suitable for vehicles. Village Grmov is characterized by only a few stone Vegetation cover and land use houses characterised by traditional architecture, with enclosed gardens and a smaller vineyard. The whole area is characterised by a complex structure of stone dry walls implying diversity in land use. The ridge and all its exposed and elevated parts are characterised by pastures, represented by rare vegetation and dense parcellation by elongated square stretches of dry walls. Man- aged pastures are visible in lower, more protected parts. They are richer in vegetation, but the parcellation system is more irregular and fragmented. It is assumed that traditional communal pastures were located in more exposed, bare areas. The same areas were later subject to black pine afforestation during the Austrian administration (outskirts of Lubenica and Zbičina). The

40 Pine plantations Well preserved traditional Abandoned cultivated valleys with Macchia Narrow roads bordered settlements complex dry stone wall systems with dry stone walls

41 Mixed deciduous and evergreen thick forests ing from coastal settlements towards the bay characterize steep shores north of Martinšćica, and the surrounding coastline, evoking a feeling while southern half reveals a combination of of safety and spaciousness. White gravel beaches forests and cultivated areas. Although predomi- are contrasted to mixed forests in the northern nantly abandoned, these surfaces are clearly vis- hinterland, creating a sense of wilderness and ible and integrated into typical spatial structure isolation. Transition of seasons is here more in- of the wide rural complex of Stivan. Here, the tense than in other areas. Summer dynamics and settlement is located on the top of the cultivat- large number of tourists interchange with windy ed valley. The slopes are parcelled by dry stone and cold wasteland in the winter. fences and terraces, and the wider surroundings deﬁ ned by large pastures fenced by dry walls. Traditional forest management and controlled exploitation can be detected in traces of topping (pedalenje) of oak trees. Plantations of black pine are located above Martinšćica.

Settlements and architectural heritage Apart from the marked trail along the scree, leading below Lubenice, it is diffi cult to reach the north part of the area. Consequently, there are no settlements here. South area is sheltered from bora and characterized by low shores and arable 4.3.2. Forested west coasts soil. It enabled development of six settlements. Roman sites in Miholašćica and Ustrine bear This area comprises the central part of island’s witness to long history of land use. Settlements west coast, from Grabrovice bay to Mikalj bay. of this area are located within wide dolomite Even though there are two coastal types, steep amphitheatrical bays or at the adjacent slopes. and forested and mildly laid and inhabited, the Although all of them are maritime, only two are whole area is protected from bora and exposed completely located along the coast (Martinšćica to mild western maritime infl uences. and Miholašćica). Other settlements (Vidovići, Stivan, Zaglav and Ustrine) are located at the Relief slopes and by their orientation belong to the group of inland settlements. All the settlements Two subunits can be differentiated within this are connected to the adjacent bay by serpentine area. The fi rst, north unit comprises steep slopes steep paths. Touristic infrastructure is evident in in a stretch from Grabrovice bay to Koludara all the settlements and has the greatest impact cape (adjacent to Martinšćica bay) along the con- on the spatial character. Martinšćica is defi ned by tour line at 300 masl. The south unit comprises its 500 m long gravel bay and by interesting ar- low coasts from Martinšćica bay to deep bay rangement of the houses that are predominantly below village Ustrine. Geological components of located along its rim (“on the beach”). The cen- the rocks cause these differences. Porosity and tre is defi ned by medieval church, convent and permeability of stone surfaces (mixed limestone citadel. The village extends along the coast by and dolomites) enabled greater erosion of the its camping site and towards inland by a hotel. terrain, developing spacious bays and mild slopes Ustrine is a picturesque little village perched along low indented west coasts. In the north high above the bay and was traditionally a fi sh- area, non-erosive, predominantly limestone karst ing village. Zaglav is a terraced apartment village, created indented coasts dissected by distinctive with no traditional value, and is active only in the geomorphologic forms like escarpments, ravines, summertime. Other settlements do not insist alluvial terraces and scree. Torrential fl ows de- on new constructions, but are inclined towards posit stone, gravel and sand, ending in beaches at renovating and conversion of old autochthone the base of limestone slopes. houses into harmoniously incorporated accommodation and hospitality facilities. Vegetation cover and land use Steep and inapproachable terrain was the reason Scenery why agriculture was abandoned here long before Due to its western exposition, sunsets colour it happened to neighbouring areas. Therefore, this area in spectrum of orange and intense red this area is predominantly characterized by nat- shades. Most locations open high panoramic ural vegetation and scree, covering complex dry views spreading towards open sea and island wall structures that represent the diversity of Zeča. Inland views are no less attractive, open- traditional land use. Forests dominate the area. 42 Steep coastal sides under dense forest

Ravines (torrent ﬂ ows)

Camp

Olive groves

Village on the high part of the coastal side with the associated valley

Coastal settlement with historical element and large apartment zone

43 4.4. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE LAKE VRANA VALLEY

LANDSCAPE AREAS: Vrana lake valley “There aren’t many people, you can get lost, hide.” A.M.

Forested western coast Abandonded Vrana lake Steep lake coast Black pine Active rocky dry stone walls plantations along pastures terraces the main road WE

Cross-section of the landscape units of the Vrana lake valley

“I’m calm and active here.” I.S.

44 IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL EXPERIENCE SENSITIVE MAP

 Calm water surface within the depths of karst depression  Spaciousness and panoramic vistas revealed from all lake sides  A sense of naturalness, seclusion and tranquillity  Radical torrents  Secluded shepherds’ dwellings, abandoned villages and chapels

45 sides; there are still very old tress of holm oak, downy oak, ash and mock privet. Upper west side, along the boundary of this area, is characterized by the remains of agricultural lots (orchards and vegetable gardens), visible in various terraced structures and stone dry wall fences. Sheep breeding and ﬁ shing traditionally characterized the area around Lake Vrana, while today it is primarily protected as a source of water supply with restricted accessibility, consequently subject to natural processes and sheep grazing. With the existing protection, the Lake has been proposed for special protection as a special reservation of regional signiﬁ cance.

Architectural heritage Extremely steep slopes prevented development of larger settlements. Only the ruins of villages, shepherds’ dwellings and several chapels can be detected today. All the villages are located on the east side; villages Zbišina and Stanić are completely abandoned, unlike Vrana, still inhabited by few residents within its scattered authentic 4.4.1. Vrana lake valley houses. Terraced structure of Zbišina, situated in the forest on eastern slopes of the valley, com- The valley of Lake Vrana, located in the central prises three shepherds’ dwellings and St. Aloysius part of the island, stands out as a separate zone, chapel. Ruins of the houses are presently used not only as a karst hydrogeological phenomenon, as sheep shelters. Stanić is a compact village, but also because of the great signifi cance it has comprising fi ve to six traditional houses, located for the whole Cres - Lošinj archipelago as a res- on a clearing, enclosed by a forest. Even though ervoir of drinking water. there are no permanent residents, the village is oriented towards seasonal sheep breeding and Relief agriculture. This landscape area is represented by elongated oval submerged karst valley (10 km long and 2-3 Scenery km wide), comprising the lake itself, two equally This spacious area is characterised by spa- inclined, longitudinally placed coastal slopes and ciousness, panoramic vistas and steep territory. long and deep ravines at its narrow sides. Its Restricted accessibility evokes a sense of nat- boundaries are defi ned by confl uence area at a uralness, isolation and tranquillity. Defi ned by height between 200 and 300 m above sea level. large dimensions and calm water surface within The coast is poorly indented and characterised the depths of karst depression, the area conveys by several bays, capes and beaches. The north atypical ambience and high level of particularity. and the south ends of the lake are defi ned by It is enhanced by the strong tonal contrast be- a low coast, a consequence of torrential fl ows tween intense deep blue colour of the lake and (drage). Flat ravines are formed at its estuaries. its surrounding vegetation. Representative zones Permeable north zone is fi lled by stone debris within the area are clearly defi ned: forests, pas- and is therefore passable. The south end is char- tures, coastal marshes, wetlands and coastlines, acterised by wetlands and hydrogenic soils cov- depicting a rather simplifi ed fi rst impression of ering the spacious area of Poje. the area. But prolonged presence reveals the complexity of the scenery, primarily represented Vegetation cover and land use by harmonious relations between natural (vegetation, relief density, water) and anthropogen- Pastures (active and neglected) and thick mixed ic (villages, dry wall fences, clearings, sinkholes, forest defi ne this area. The two opposite lake pastures) landscape elements, as well as its spec- sides differ by their predominant vegetation cov- ifi cities like shepherds’ dwellings, deserted set- er and land use. The west side, has been, and still tlements and chapels. The area can be reached is recognizable for its rocky pastures parcelled by several eastern and western macadam paths. with long stretches of stone dry walls along the slope. Forests that have been preserved due to steep slopes defi ne eastern and western coastal 46 Wood plantationsA narrow and steep Torrent channel Abandoned Mixed forest path into the lake fl owing into the pastures of longi- lake tudinal pattern of parcellation

47 4.5. LANDSCAPE UNIT OF THE CENTRAL PASTORAL PLATEAU

LANDSCAPE AREAS: Central rocky pastures Barren pastures of the eastern coastal side

“I used to milk eighty of them, sheep a day. Eighty... I couldn’t move my hands!” (M. M.)

“We had vineyards, made wine and then the cheese, the best there is, when you’d put, we used to do that, pomace, those pomaces, we call them bran, and then press the grapes, pour out wine, and then what’s left. And then they would, and there, put cheese, so it would get ﬂ avour and colour, or put into olive oil in stone depository. It should all

village Ustrine abandoned pastures cultivable valley vegetation barren rocky covered coastal area WEvalley

Cross-section of the landscape unit of Central pastoral plateau 48 Osjetilno doživljajna karta

IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL SENSITIVE MAP EXPERIENCE

 Spacious and clear pastures parcelled with long stretches of stone dry wall  Harsh natural conditions  Recognizable image of bare white rockery with scattered grey and green grasslands and irregular forms  Seasonal interchange of red, yellow and green vegetation  Round cultivated sinkholes represent spatial accents within white rockery  Elevated hummocks with perched dwellings and churches  Intertwined shepherds’ paths

49 its trail on rocky pastures, in a form of specif- characteristic for all the villages in the area. Its ic grass vegetation comprised of herbs and low central part, the main meeting point, is defi ned semi-bushes; specifi c vegetation habitat of mead- by St. George’s church and St. Roko’s church. The ow fescue and crested hair grass (large areas in fact that the main road passes through, makes continuation north of Belej have been suggested this village as unavoidable as it is a transit zone. as botanical reservation). Deserted pastures are Orlec is the biggest inland settlement with its covered with macchia and predominant juniper hundred inhabitants and it is a protected eth- (Juniperus oxycedrus L.). Some pastoral surfaces nological-rural complex. It is located on a mild are covered with mixed forest complexes. Habi- slope, with numerous contemporary and tradi- tats of black pine are located along the northern tional access roads. A road fenced by a dry wall main road. Pastoral surfaces are characterized for its most part goes along the southwestern by diversity of dry wall parcellation; predomi- border of the area. Other macadam roads usu- nant large square parcels occupy more exposed ally have east-west direction, and connect east- and fl at surfaces, while various patterns of frag- ern coastal areas with the main road. Shepherds’ mented parcels defi ne lower parts and valleys dwelling Loze is located within southern inland (this can also be applied to differentiation of area. communal and private pastures). Sinkholes, in a form of round karst depressions, fenced by Scenery stone dry walls or hedges are mainly abandoned The most prominent element of the landscape, nowadays. They are densely and uniformly scat- its rocky pastures fenced by stone dry walls, are tered throughout area and make one of its most visible and comprehensible within the space due recognizable elements. to scaly terrain and the fact that they are still used. They are represented by a complex se- 4.5.1. Central rocky pastures Settlements and roads quence of plans, enhanced by contrasts of red, This area comprises the central part of the is- All the settlements have compact structure, and yellow and green vegetation during seasonal land, i.e. its largest pastoral surface, and today is together with adjacent fertile valleys and sink- transitions. Additionally, dry wall as a dominant recognized as the most representative area con- holes enclose rural complexes, surrounded by spatial element, that has created this scenery, nected to sheep breeding orientation of island pastures. They are Belej, Orlec, Vrana, Hrasta and is also the core of its balance. Round cultivat- inhabitants. Omnipresent sheep breeding has left a small village Kačićevi. Villages Belej and Hras- ed sinkholes (gardens, forests and puddles) its trail throughout the area; represented by long ta are genetically interesting because they have are very important features and gravity points strips of stone dry walls around rocky pastures developed from one or more shepherds’ dwell- of the landscape. Several elevated hummocks in different stages of vegetation succession, ac- ings. It is revealed in a scattered matrix of pre- with dwellings and churches also dominate the tive rural complexes, desolate shepherds’ dwell- served traditional stone architecture within the scenery. The whole area is anthropogenic, but ings, isolated chapels and fenced wide puddles. village of Belej. This preservation is the result of its character is changing due to increased over- abandonment while several buildings have been growing. As opposed to clear pastures, forested Relief transformed into hospitality facilities, renovated areas are characterised by enclosed incompre- with contemporary materials and colours. Pre- hensible complexes with short views. Shepherds’ Seemingly uniform plateau is slightly wrinkled by served autochthone architecture with sporadic paths intertwine the whole area. its shallow wide valleys and low elevations. The renovation with contemporary materials is a most signifi cant valley is Hrastan–Belej–Srem, and the highest peak is Bojnak (224 masl). The north plateau, including the surrounding landscape belt, encompasses inland of the island, while in the south part, due to decreasing steepness, the plateau extends into the shore, so its borders go all the way to the sea. West coastline is low and mild with several beaches, while the eastern is steeper with ravines and therefore indented bays. The whole area, especially its south part, is characterized by numerous little (cultivated) sinkholes with average diameter of 50-80 m, representing one of the most important landscape elements.

Vegetation cover and land use Pastures mainly cover the area, and smaller area of arable surfaces is located in the lower parts: valleys and sinkholes. Larger terraced surfaces on the surrounding slopes are mostly abandoned nowadays. Prolonged cattle grazing left 50 Cultivated sinkhole (agricultural Pastures of rectangular Settlement along the main Black pine plantations valleys and ponds) scattered in parcellation under island road pastures vegetation succession

51 location of the surrounding pastures in order to enable equal access to water from all the bor- “And somebody says - why don’t you dering parcels. Karst areas with some vegetation renew dry stone walls? Why would I do developed a cover of Mediterranean macchia. that when they’ll tear them down in a Several juniper bushes (Juniperus oxycedrus L.) are month?!” (LJ. G.) scattered along barren pastures.

Shepherds’ architectural heritage and connections Access to distant eastern coasts is not facilitated by bigger roads - connection to the central part of the island is enabled only by a winding macadam road with direct access to the main road, and the coast can be reached by asphalt road (built on a torrent), connecting Orlec to Mali bok bay. Given the fact that desolate and steep rocks are home to the Eurasian griffon, east coast is under special protection category: ornithology reservation Mali bok - Koromačno. There are no settlements, only two abandoned chapels, located on the slopes, used as sheep shelters. “Communal puddle” is located at the base of St. George’s chapel. 4.5.2. Barren pastures of the eastern coastal side Scenery Narrow coast of the central plateau is charac- The fi rst impression of the area is defi ned by terised by its bare rocks and balanced parcella- its radical and inhospitable natural conditions, tion of managed pastures. It comprises area from revealed by a steep coast and lack of vegetation, Mali bok bay to Punta Sv. Duh cape and Konfi n but at the same time, by adaptability and bay area, southeast of Belej. incorporated anthropogenic infl uence (animal husbandry) within harsh landscape. Recognizable Relief image of bare white stone and scattered bushes of grey and green juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus The area is defi ned by both mildly laid coasts L.) dominate the scenery. The whole area is and bare steep coasts dissected by numerous open and clear, characterised by numerous torrents. Sporadic erosive torrential fl ows cre- panoramic vistas of surrounding stone dry ate numerous gravel beaches; Mali bok, Slivna, walls, pastures and the sea. Stretches of regular Jelovica and Lukovac. Cliffs end with cape Sv. Duh stone dry walls dominate the landscape, evoking and the terrain is here divided by a valley that uniformity, as well as inspiration and tranquillity. extends towards the sea. Because it is sheltered Puddles, deserted chapels and singular low from bora and subject to soil deposition, the val- trees deformed by wind gusts (mainly used as ley is covered by high vegetation. In contrast, the sun shelters for sheep,) give this monotonous harshest part of the entire island is in this area scenery a distinguished feature. and it is represented by bare rocks exposed to “Senj bora”.

Vegetation cover and land use The area is predominantly defi ned by managed pastures that are characterised by large strips of regular parcels along the eastern slope. Be- sides their elongation and height (shelter against bora), dry walls are specifi c because they don’t have wooden latticed gates (lese). Access from one parcel to another is enabled by openings next to the ground for sheep, while shepherds use pointed horizontal rocks as a steps. This area is also characterized by scattered dry wall sinkholes (Konfi n area), but they are not as numerous as on other pastures. Several sinkholes have been turned into puddles and it determined 52 Scarce pasture vegetation with scattered shrubs of Juniperus

Cultivated sinkholes in the function of arable land, woods and ponds

Elongated managed rotational intensive grazing grounds

Inaccessible rocky and steep coast

Gullied coastal sides

53 4.6. LANDSCAPE UNITS OF OSOR AND PUNTA KRIŽA

LANDSCAPE AREAS: Forested and indented coastal sides of Punta Križa Central valley of Punta Križa Osor and the shallow bay

“We, the locals, have never felt that “Each millimetre of land was dug. We couldn’t grow wheat, but we grew barley and this space is Cres, or that it’s Lošinj. It’s all corn on the best land. Olives were around the land that was suitable for digging. People the same to me. But administratively, in this couldn’t have big pastures and herds because it’s forest. And Punta Križa lived: we’d cut set of circumstances we belong to Lošinj. forest for 6 months, and for 6 months we’d transport wood. To feed the family you’d have And geographically we are in Cres. And no 25 sheep. Corn for home, vegetables for home. We’d live from selling wood, and maybe one here will tell you they are from Cres. some lamb.” (Lj. G.) Because they never went to Cres. They went to Lošinj. (LJ. G.)

Natural forest Pogana bay Shepherd’s dwelling Indented coast of Punta Križa WE

Cross-section of the landscape unit of Osor and Punta Križa 54 IMPRESSIONS AND VISUAL SENSITIVE MAP EXPERIENCE

 Forested and enclosed area, with narrow paths leading towards traditional shepherds’ dwellings  Long panoramic vistas of the plateau and indented bay revealed from the guardhouse  Low shore, marshlands, shallow wetlands and sea encompassed by the bay  Micro-locations of intensive agricultural crops  Old town core of Osor with high tower located at the characteristic connection of two islands  Stone dry wall fences enclosing agricultural lots on wetland surfaces

55 of forest vegetation with local signifi cance (holm Scenery oak, strawberry trees, juniper, myrtle, bay leaves, The landscape is characterized by low indented milkweed, terebinth and mastic). Valleys com- coast surrounded by forest belt, but its prise shallow complexes of fl at land fi lled with uniqueness derives from thick and deep forest red soil. South part of the plateau is mainly cov- covering the whole low plateau. Narrow winding ered with forest. West coastal plains are charac- paths with numerous extensions lead to specifi c terised by arable land, mainly olive groves and locations of traditional shepherds’ dwellings vineyards. Traditional pastures and olive groves within aromatic and rich forest. Vicinity of the are defi ned by succession or overgrowing with coast reveals sea views. macchia and forest.

Settlements and paths There are no settlements within the area, but only small rural complexes (abandoned rural settlements and shepherds’ dwellings), located in the vicinity of several valleys (bays) and these are: Drakovac, Murtovnik, Sv. Anton, Parhavac, Smrečje, Lusare and Peski. Shepherds’ dwellings are surrounded by big or small clearings that were traditionally cultivated, but now are subject to natural succession. Pastures were located further from the dwellings. The prominent south part of the island is subject to stronger mari- 4.6.1. Forested and indented coastal time infl uences, while southeast and southwest sides of Punta Križa shores are inaccessible because of weak traffi c connections, and can only be reached through Punta Križa is defi ned by its eastern and west- the forest or the sea. Shepherds’ dwelling in V. ern coastal zones. Almost fractal dimensions of Mikložan, located near the sea, represents a rel- its indented coastline are revealed by numerous atively well-preserved rural complex defi ned by cut in bays, and the entire continental zone is clear typology of the objects in the function of covered with thick forests of downy oak, which autarkic microeconomic structure. Renovated is unique in comparison to the whole island area. limekiln and threshing fl oor are next to the hut.

Relief This area covers the ultimate part of the low plateau within the landscape unit of Osor and Punta Križa, built of limestone and dolomite with numerous smaller karst depressions (sinkholes). It is characterised by rather balanced terrain with mild slopes (the entire area is below 100 masl) and the highest peak (Bernardin) is only 103 m above sea level. Elevations form gentle parallel crests along the tectonic structure of the island in NW-SE direction, with shallow valleys with submerged rims between them.

Vegetation cover and land use Natural vegetation cover is preserved in the areas of organized forest exploitation. It is de- ﬁ ned by Mediterranean vegetation of holm oak and macchia, followed by their subassociations, facieses and degradation stages. The easternmost part is predominantly covered with thick forest of holm oak descending almost to the shore, smaller open habitats of aromatic plants and complexes of downy oak within karst depressions. Due to valuable and preserved Medi- terranean vegetation habitats, the area has been suggested for protection as a special reservation 56 Long shallow ravines Shepherds’ dwellings Indented coast

Salt marshes along Dense holm oak forest the sea coast

57 to the rest of the island. In the south, in Jadrišćica Scenery bay, visible remains of terraced slopes, traditionally used as vineyards, dominate the area. There This area is defi ned by both open and enclosed are tendencies of agricultural revitalisation and ambiance; small active agricultural areas are regrowth of cultures like olives, vine, vegetables contrasted to vast impassable forests of holm and aromatic and medicinal plants. oak. The winding main road reveals short views Village Punta Križa and recent construc- of thin stone dry wall fences and thick, but low tion elements holm oak forest. Macadam extensions of the main road lead to nearby shepherds’ dwellings, The plateau is divided into two parts by the prehistoric site Jama and the highest peak of central road of local signifi cance that connects the southern part of the island, Vela Straža, that this area with the northern part of the island. reveals panoramic vistas of the plateau and The road is narrow with average width of 4 m. indented coast, together with the neighbouring It is surrounded by dry walls “unjulice” and ex- island Lošinj. tremely dense forest and macchia, scattered with new olive groves. Village Punta Križa is located in one of the valleys near Ul bay and comprises around thirty houses and churches. Its scattered matrix is a result of a numerous big gardens that surround each house and that way enclose the complex of the village. Punta Križa is primarily oriented towards tourism, which is evident in its predominantly new architecture (apartments), 4.6.2. The central valley of Punta and conversion of old villages (Draga, Pogana and Križa Bokinić) into weekend settlements, its big camp- This landscape area covers longitudinal central ing site and the marina, all of which decrease its part of the plateau Punta Križa and extends to traditional value. Jadrišćica bay. Compared to surrounding forests The area is characterised by shepherds’ dwell- on its eastern and western shores, anthropo- ings that incorporate new contents. They have genic infl uence is more visible in this area. The recently been renovated and adjusted for area comprises numerous new economic initia- agro-touristic or hospitality purposes. The most tives around the village Punta Križa and the sur- prominent example is Donji Grmožaj. rounding mosaic of shepherds’ dwellings, forests, pastures and cultivated surfaces along the main road.

Relief This landscape area belongs to a wider relief context of the south part of the island - low karst plateaus (below 100 masl) dissected by numerous torrents and indented by sinkholes. It is located in its central valley. North part is higher, with the highest peak Vela Straža (154 masl) and from that point the terrain gently descends towards indented low coast. It is enclosed by mild parallel crests and extends into the submerged coast on the south.

Vegetation cover and land use Active agricultural surfaces dominate the area. The terrain is characterised by pastures fenced by dry walls and arable lots. This area is speciﬁ c for the new technique of enclosing pastures; besides traditional dry walls, metal fences are used in attempt to ﬁ ght allochtone wild species. Unlike the central part of the island, the pastures here are small and enclosed, surrounded by thick forest of young holm oak and gradually overgrown by macchia. Dry walls are lower in comparison 58 Central cultivable valley Pastures Village along the road with scattered traditional and modern olive groves and vineyards

Abandoned dry stone wall terraces

Narrow road, bordered Holm oak forests with long dry stone walls

59 Vegetation cover and land use This specifi c terrain is characterised by low relief combined with wetlands and hydrogenic soils, which is refl ected upon its land use and organization. Agricultural orientation defi nes the area around Osor, and terrains that are more distant are characterized by succession of Medi- terranean vegetation that extends into holm oak forest in Punta Križa. The pattern of parcellation (visible on old aerial photographs) is extremely complex, defi ned by interchange of regular and irregular parcels, with mainly massive walls and distinguished inner heaps. This structure was primarily subject to salt marshes, which is evident in communal paths used for accessing puddles. Wetland vegetation gives this landscape its unique character, due to rare appearance of these habitats on karst islands. Northwest of Osor, Bijar bay is specifi c for its alpine pine plantations.

Urban complex of historical Osor remote, abandoned and tranquil unit. The space 4.6.3. Osor and the shallow bay Osor is the oldest coastal settlement on the is- is dominated by the structure of the historic core of Osor, itself defi ned by the high tower. Salt marshes and mildly indented coastal zone, a land of Cres. It is situated on the narrow chan- The main road towards south opens views of bridge over the narrow channel, a camping site nel, (former isthmus) connecting two islands Osor. Stone town streets, renovated houses and below forest in the northern hinterland, togeth- and two seas. Due to this strategically important sacral buildings, embellished by fl ower gardens, er with historical urban complex of former main location, it was perceived as the main centre of and small squares enhance the pleasant histori- centre, Osor, bear witness to historical identi- the whole Cres - Lošinj archipelago. Its historical cal character. The area outside the town core is ty of this area but also defi ne its contemporary prosperity is still visible within its walls: the his- natural and spacious. Vistas of the hilly northern processes. toric core is almost completely preserved with visible remains of the forum, the town hall, the part of the island Lošinj and two sea bays are re- Relief bishop’s palace and the cathedral with the tower, vealed along the eastern coast. Spatial dynamics the most prominent element in the area. Never- is realized through interesting micro-localities: Low elongated, almost inconspicuous slopes de- theless, Osor has turned to agriculture, evident forested Bijar bay and agricultural lot fenced by scending towards the south and ending in indent- in its surroundings, and lately towards tourism, dry stone walls on wetland surfaces. ed coasts characterize the area. Rocky beaches represented by the camping site Bijar, houses and wetlands surround the whole area (Jazić bay, converted into apartments and a little port. The Podbrajde bay, Sonta bay, Bijar bay etc.). Wide main road, passing along the southern border of sinkholes towards Punta Križa have taken the the village, connects the two islands. form of postglacial salt marshes - small shallow lakes containing brackish water and covering the Scenery surface of 3, 4 to 0,03 ha. They are divided from the sea by several meters high limestone crest. Specifi c ambiance and visual aspects of the area Salt marshes defi ne the central part of a wide are characterized by its unique natural surround- zone of alluvial (carbonate) soils, or wetlands. ings, represented by low shore, marshlands, shal- This area has been proposed for protection as a low wetlands and the sea encompassed by the special botanic and zoological reservation. bay. The prevailing tone defi nes the area as a

Town of Osor Terraces under Neglected cultivated Neglected cultivated Pastures under vegetation succession sinkholes sinkholes vegetation WEsuccession

Cross-section of the landscape area of Osor and the shallow bay 60 Town at the junction of the Forested Neglected cultivated land, Salt marshes two islands with preserved coastal sides fenced with dry stone historic center wall

Church tower as a distinctive visual

Port

61 5. GUIDELINES FOR MANAGING LANDSCAPES OF THE ISLAND OF CRES

5.1. Final analysis of the condition and the larger part of the territory is exposed to ex- still existing traditional culture of cattle breeding value of Cres landscapes treme dynamics and changes caused by abandon- is spatially evident in its complexity and intensity ment of agricultural lands and rural settlements. of dry wall structures and adjacent traditional This landscape study provides an overview of Although this is a common fact, it is additionally facilities, but also in traditional practice of cat- characteristics, conditions and values of indi- stressed in this study, focusing on areas that are tle rotation, as well as in sharing of communal vidual landscape areas of the island of Cres. A mostly affected in this respect, or opposite, those pastures. Pastures imply the value of agro-biodi- special attention was given to perceptions and that are more active and still manage to retain its versity, visible in natural species and systems that preferences of the local community, visitors and traditional features (map 2). The abandonment is have evolved with livestock activities: vegetation landscape experts, with focus on disadvantages followed by problems of centralization of inhab- of rocky pastures, micro ecosystems of cultivat- and advantages of the present management of itants and activities in the main town centre of ed puddles and Eurasian griffon communities. We those landscapes. These insights were consid- the island. The main road primarily connects, but arrive at a conclusion that pastoral landscapes ered while creating the fi nal guidelines. It should also enhances isolation of the major part of the are amongst the fundamental cultural, natural be pointed out that extremely complex land- island turning it into a “transit zone”. This iso- and aesthetic values of the island of Cres, and ex- scape structure of the island of Cres is the result lation, on the other hand, helped preservation ceptionality thereof places this landscape within of diversity in land use, terrain organization and of settlement structures and architecture that national, even international context. That is why vegetation cover, conditioned by its specifi c relief weren’t subject to modernization. a special focus should be given to preservation and traditional land use. Some areas have highly and improvement of pastoral landscapes. Repre- distinctive characteristics, due to this island’s ex- 5.2. Thematic framework for defi ning sentative areas are (map 2): ceptionality beyond local level. Supported by the guidelines for managing landscapes - Area if inland pastures (Vrana, Belej, Stivan, fact that it is situated near the mainland, bearing Ustrine and Osor), representing a complex of in mind how fast it can be reached, we become Traditional cultural landscape private and communal pastures (Belej, Ustrine, aware that island’s numerous comparative ad- Landscape of the island of Cres is mainly de- Stivan and Osor pastures are lined up in space, vantages still haven’t been adequately used or termined by traditional agricultural activities in making one complex) and some smaller singular recognized. To clarify the problem of “unrecogni- different stages: active, recently neglected and pasture surfaces; tion”, the starting point should be the analysis of completely abandoned. Pastoral landscape dom- - Coastal barren pastures in a stretch from bay perception of the island. It was determined that inates the area. Dubovica to bay Koromačno. public promotion of Cres included only a small part of its landscape, focusing on its representa- Pastoral landscapes – Different types of pas- Landscape of olive groves – Olive groves tive elements, revealed in the narrow “touristic ture use include managed, communal and forest around the town of Cres are the next most spe- perception”. On the other hand, even the local pastures. Managed pasture (managed rotational cifi c element of the island’s landscape (map 2). community doesn’t have a clear perspective on intensive grazing grounds) implies private fenced They represent one of the largest homogenous diversity and specifi city of the island landscape. pastures following different patterns of mainly zones of traditional olive groves in the Adriatic It is partially a consequence of the fact that the spacious square parcellation structures. Dry wall area, and singularity thereof is evident in their concept of landscape hasn’t been adequately fences enable control of movement - rotation of unity with the urban matrix. This spacious local- incorporated in policies related to landscape the cattle. Communal pasture (komunada), as a ity is preserved due to its specifi c agro-pastoral planning and protection of cultural and natural functional extension of private pasture, is relat- use, as grazing grounds. These are the reasons heritage, themselves characterized as partial and ed to traditionally regulated relations of using why productive, authentic and aesthetic poten- focused on objects, localities, phenomena etc. common surfaces, but there is still not enough tial of these olive groves is signifi cant and there- For older generations the use of landscape as a information about that. Several communal pas- fore should be subject to systematic manage- place of identifi cation implied specifi c small ar- tures are still active, evident in their bare ground; ment and presentation. eas with qualitative territorial signifi cance, while some are abandoned and unnoticeable, while Landscape of rural complexes – Landscape for younger generations it is mainly extensive others were turned into pine forests during of rural complexes comprises buildings in the and qualitative. Contemporary possibilities and afforestation. Abandonment of animal husband- settlements and the surrounding agricultural movement dynamics seemingly contribute to ry, i.e. its extension, creates the so-called forest surfaces that traditionally represented one sin- perception of singularity and diversity of island pasture - higher vegetation entirely encloses the gular organism. Typical rural complex was usually landscape, but simultaneously use its “spacious- pasture and takes precedence over low pastoral represented by a settlement perched above a ness” only as a transition line from one point vegetation. That process implies additional prob- valley or a sinkhole, used as a fertile surface suit- with centralised life activities to another, which lems with juniper succession (Juniperus oxycedrus able for growing more demanding cultures (veg- deprives the landscape of its signifi cance and vis- L.), which is not only invasive, but also diffi cult to etable groves, orchards, grains). Abandonment of ibility. All these insights imply necessary change eradicate. Value of pastoral landscape should be agricultural surfaces around settlements leads to in the local community - landscape relation. viewed through inseparability of its cultural and disintegration of almost all rural complexes on Analysis of the landscape condition showed that agricultural qualities. Presentational impact of the Cres, with buildings within the settlements as the 62 remnants of that organism (map 3). Unlike the - Dominant relief formations do not just restrict - Punta Križa; surrounding agricultural surfaces, settlements access to some island areas, but also fascinate by - Black pine habitats around Martinšćica, Osor, (buildings) mainly preserve their historic charac- their appearance and evoke a sense of force of Lubenice and Helm, and along the road near ter. Visible interventions (additional construction natural processes; Vrana and apartmanization) don’t interfere with the - Thick vegetation cover is a consequence of Landscape of coastlines and beaches – ambience and harmony of the surrounding area, natural succession, but also of specifi c climate, Cres is characterised by extremely long and like in some other Adriatic islands. Among thirty silvo-pastoral management of the forests and diversifi ed coastline (from low and indented to island settlements, only Cres and Martinščica are systematic afforestation; tall steep cliffs) with relatively small number of characterized by signifi cant expansion in relation - Land use traditionally implied only local re- beaches. Apart from some fi lled zones in Cres to the historical core, while weekend houses sources and materials and is incorporated into bay, all the beaches are preserved and represent predominate historical matrix in Zaglav, Merag natural image of the island. results of natural processes. Beaches are main- and Porozina. Revitalisation of rural complexes Natural allure of Cres creates a situation of dou- ly hidden and distant from settlements, which should be the starting point of all discussions ble consequences. On one hand, it evokes par- contributes not only the ambiance, but also the on the future of the island landscape and should ticular ambiance (forests, inaccessible beaches, paths leading towards them. Inaccessibility and therefore be prioritised. Distinguished valuable absence of coastal apartmanization, tranquillity, preservation of beaches is what makes Cres rural complexes are (map 2): isolation), and on the other hand, attempts of recognizable, which should be the starting point - The peninsular zone of Gerbin area comprising agricultural revitalisation are even more chal- for further considerations on their preservation settlements Lubenice, Pernat, Podol and Grmov lenging. Lack of incentives is not just a result and use. They still haven’t been systematically in- with adjoining, predominantly neglected agricul- of inaccessibility of the area, but also a conse- ventoried. tural units; quence of allochthone wild species that thrive - Predošćica and its cultivated fertile valley and in natural surroundings. Therefore, natural land- New purposes within space surrounding pastures; scape potential should be developed in several Tendencies of agricultural revitalisation (olive - Filozići and Dragozetići with forested and au- directions, but autochthone naturalness should groves and vineyards) in Punta Križa include in- tochthone landscape of neglected agriculture. be potentiated in areas where it directly or indi- tensive agriculture (karst ploughing, merging of Landscape of relict dry walls – Spacious rectly represents opportunities and comparative fragmented lots, etc.). These are, unquestionably, Cres surfaces are defi ned by intensive fragmen- advantages of the island (Below mentioned for- positive initiatives, but their impact on attractive- tation patterns of stone dry wall parcels (bar- est and coastal landscapes). ness and recognisability of the landscape is ques- bakan) that are incomprehensible within the tionable, and these and similar trends should space or are covered by forests. It is assumed Forest landscape – Tall thick forest complexes therefore be considered in a synergy of farmers that these systems, as in other Adriatic areas, create ambiance atypical for other Adriatic is- and responsible bodies. Furthermore, sever- suddenly “emerged” during the short period of lands because they create “continental” impres- al fertile sinkholes in central pastures indicate karst bonifi cation in the 19th century, and their sions. The most prominent forest localities are trends of intensifi cation of vegetable growing, abandonment was just as sudden. Intensity of Tramuntana and Punta Križa. They are charac- and, from the point of view of inclusion within these dry wall structures can be interesting and terised by exceptional biodiversity and cultural the ambiance, these can be described as positive, valuable for presentation, but it also has signif- heritage (a testimony of traditional forest man- since they follow the logic of sinkhole morphol- icant revitalization potential. This revitalization agement). A sense of naturalness and its extraor- ogy. Tramunatana is characterized by alternative doesn’t necessarily have to continue tradition- dinary ambiance is a potential already recog- activities, like spiritual and artistic programs, al practices - the existing structure can be the nized in forests of Tramuntana, in a form of new eco-educational workshops and recreational base for merging of parcels and intensifying of activities. As a special category, forests of black races. These tendencies are spatially non invasive, agriculture. Signifi cant surfaces of this type can pine, from the times of systematic afforestation but nevertheless get the desirable attention of be found in: (in several occurrences, from French administra- visitors in search of recreational, sports, authen- tion to times following WW II), were planted in tic or unconventional contents. - Spacious hinterland of the town of Cres, ex- communal pastures with a purpose of protection tending towards east coast; of land or as a shelter from wind. Today, these RECAPITULATION OF THE PROBLEMS - South of Lake Vrana. forests represent dominating monoculture com- IDENTIFIED plexes of tall trees, clearly delineated in contrast Natural landscape ● Prevailing centralization and traffi c isolation, to surrounding vegetation. They are numerous in As opposed to its agricultural aspects, it is neces- i.e. the existing traffi c connections defi ne the a stretch from west coast and Gerbin peak area, sary to consider natural landscape of the island, island as a “bridge” and “transit zone”. and around Vodice, Helm peak and north of Lake as well. Finally, naturalness is an impression that ● Abandonment of inland settlements - deterio- Vrana. The most important forest landscapes: dominates the island, and is defi ned by its dynamic ration of valuable examples of residential and relief, thick vegetation cover and specifi c land use: - Tramuntana; sacral island architecture, the loss of integrity 63 of rural complexes. be especially useful for the managing bodies in MEASURE - PASTURE 1 – To upgrade pastures ● Abandonment of agriculture and predomi- monitoring, implementing studies of landscape through multifunctionality; to use existing re- nance of succession - the loss of recognizable impact, laying out spatial plans, conservation sur- sources, agricultural sinkholes, puddles, wood spatial and cultural identity. faces, etc. Applicability of such interface for more exploitation. ● Fragmentation and parcellation of the terrain detailed research should be assessed, especially MEASURE - PASTURE 2 – To adequately rep- and unclear land ownership. within the domain of classifi cation of areas: local resent pastures through exceptional landscape ● A lack of integral knowledge of characteristics traditional practices, traditional land use, tradi- branding; to represent them through the mono- and values of the island; insuffi cient represen- tional architecture and stone dry walls, village graphs and the Internet; mark them in space. It tation of landscape concept as a potential eco- and settlement characterization, puddles, vegeta- is equally important to create detailed inventory nomic and touristic resource. tion habitats, etc. Catalogues and inventories can and analysis, to determine the fund of condition ● Negative trends in manner and level of identi- be extremely useful starting points for project of pastures, as well as accompanying elements fi cation of local community with space - util- application. In that sense, it is necessary to defi ne with emphasis on recognizable traditional ele- itarian landscape as a place of identifi cation priority research areas (e.g. Tramuntana, inland ments. that transcends from qualitative and territorial and coastal pastures, etc.) MEASURE - PASTURE 3 – Special attention into quantitative and extensive value, which in- 3. To intensify higher level of landscape protec- should be given to systematic removal and/or creases its marginalization. tion where recognisability is at the highest level management of juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus L.), ● Absence of space inventories in all segments. and where it represents Cres the best. A con- which would develop a set of forest measures ● The potential of authentic traditional identity is cept of exceptional landscape is suggested for or measures for its use as a resource, primarily poorly refl ected upon touristic offer; predomi- this purpose (map 4), but it should primarily in a form of wood supplies. Considering the fact nantly quick solutions do not have a long-term be promoted within local community with the that this plant can grow up to 7 m, the topping impact on touristic specifi city of the island. aim of intensifying identifi cation of owners with measure (pedalenje) should also be considered; ● Presence of two allochthone invasive species them. Preservation of exceptional landscapes younger branches can be used for distilling and has a negative impact upon agriculture, culti- should not be considered in terms of ignoring healthy oil production. In any case, it is essential vation, maintenance and use of the landscape. all other landscapes; quite the contrary - careful to provide resources to research economic and ● Generational change - inertness and passivity management of exceptional landscapes should commercial potential of this plant that should of younger generation is refl ected upon aban- serve as exemplary model for managing other result in recommendations. donment of cultivated areas and non-recog- landscapes. nition of the potential of new initiatives and MEASURE - OLIVE GROVE – Olive groves sur- 4. To encourage activation of remote areas (with revitalization of landscape management. rounding the town of Cres should be branded focus on rural areas, but also areas outside inhab- and improved through the concept of agricul- ited areas that due to their ambience have pre- 5.3. Measures for landscape tural park, which is by defi nition an economic sentational potential, e.g. Planis); activation must management on the island of and managing concept of combined purpose be balanced, it should preserve traditional and Cres of public green surfaces (town park) and town natural character of the landscape (vegetation farm; transformation of production landscape General measures for landscape paths, settlements, agricultural surfaces) (map 4). into urban, traditional, economic and recreation- management 5. To consider new activities that can contribute al landscape as a part of urban complex. Spatial Diversity and specifi city of its landscape areas to island competitiveness, starting with the exist- plans should be based on physical integration of are the fundamental potential and resource of ing tendencies in new purposes, making sure that agrarian and urban zones wherein unity of these the island of Cres, and all refl ections on use, they are systematised and strategically directed two zones should be achieved. management and presentation of the island 6. Intensifying agricultural production is essential MEASURE - RURAL UNIT – To improve rural should be based on this premise. Incorporating for island development, but should be focused complexes in terms of transport connections, the concept of landscape into island’s offer and on the least fragile areas (map 3) and conduct- creation of additional activities that will justify management policy means to widen the focus ed with vision and in accordance with landscape their activation (e.g. beaches and camping sites from singular localities and phenomena to space characteristics (intensifi ed agriculture implies on beaches below villages, artistic colonies, etc.) as a whole - the landscape. abandoning traditional structures of space im- (map 4). 1. Recognized landscape areas should be per- pact and can incorporate: building new farms MEASURE - BEACHES 1 – To preserve coasts ceived as a framework of landscape insights for based on merging of the territory and ploughing and beaches by creating an inventory of all the the local community and a potential for identifi - of karst/land, including necessary infrastructure, beaches, determining systems of beach visita- cation in terms of managing spatial units. enabling access to mechanization, building new tions and isolating beaches that are susceptible or revitalizing existing facilities in agricultural or 2. In that aspect, it is crucial to enable public in- and sensitive to changes and incorporation of residential function, etc.) sight into results of this study in a printed form, new infrastructures. and by innovative Internet and multimedia tools. 7. Beach use should be re-evaluated from various MEASURE - BEACHES 2 – To regulate or pro- Given the fact that the whole study is GIS sup- points of view, because they shouldn’t be only the hibit construction and beach fi lling within a wide ported, it is necessary to consider the possibility fi nal point - gravel and sea, but integrated into the coastal belt - to take into consideration alterna- of implementing publically available GIS inter- structure (rural complexes that can be supply tive solutions like “pile-dwelling beaches” (map 4 face, that will serve as a platform for search of centres, ambient paths and hinterland, etc.) suggests parts of the coast that are susceptible results, as well as complement the existing data to non-invasive spatial interventions) (participation of all stakeholders in data collec- Specifi c measures for the management tion, e.g. interface Suhozid.hr). These tools can of landscape MEASURE - CAMPING SITE 1 – To strategically 64 determine potential locations/areas for building MEASURE - COMMUNICATION 1 – To use Visual exposure of the landscape - recorded camping sites in order to connect them with ad- revitalization of the existing paths to improve points that reveal various vistas jacent neighbouring villages and rural complexes traffi c and pedestrian connections of remote ru- MAP 3 - Problem map represents assessment that can be revitalized, not just as supply centres ral complexes, areas of abandoned agricultural of spatial problems and trends: level of natural for the camping sites (map 4 suggests these ar- surfaces (stretch Grmov - Mali Podol, Valun bay succession, preservation of rural complexes and eas) stretch, etc.) and beaches (those that are strate- settlement complexes, preservation of the build- gically oriented). Communication improvements MEASURE - CAMPING SITE 2 – Construction ings within the settlement, spatial trends and in- must be blended into ambiance and must con- of camping sites should be in accordance with terventions with their characters and protected tribute to the attractiveness of the landscape, i.e. morphological and structural characteristics of areas preservation of historical and traditional charac- the landscape; it adapts to the incline, without ter (e.g. in case of roads to preserve existing dry MAP 4 - Landscape sensitivity map with suggest- excavating or fi lling the terrain. Existing stone wall boundaries, i.e., in extensions, use existing ed management regime dry wall structure is the basis for organization of dry walls, asphalt some of them, or fi rm existing By overlaying the evaluation system and the new areas, minimal changes are possible. asphalt layer). To refl ect upon new alternative problem map we estimated sensitivity of land- MEASURE - INTENSIVE AGRICULTURE 1 – To routes for networking of the exceptional landscape, represented in a 1-4 scale. Higher sensitivity suggests strict management regime, while direct intensive agriculture towards specifi c ar- scapes and valuable landscapes (map 4). eas; map 4 delineates suggested areas less sensitive landscapes indicate mild regime MEASURE - COMMUNICATION 2 – Systemat- and possibility of larger changes within the land- MEASURE - INTENSIVE AGRICULTURE 2 – ic inventory and analysis of pedestrian communi- scape. According to the sensitivity level, spatial New spatial interventions must be controlled cations/paths and implementation of movement potentials and tendencies, suggested manage- and spatially non-invasive; new parcel must blend study; defi ne points of vegetation removal to ment regimes are: into morphology and structure of the landscape reveal views, defi ne potentials for recreational Category I - Exceptional landscapes - strict pro- in a way that it follows existing structures of par- paths. tection regime, with low level of possible impact cellation, sinkholes, etc. New merged lot doesn’t with focus on preservation and revitalization of imply removal of all the inner dry wall structures; 5.4. Appendix - Map interpretation the landscape character; strict prohibition of small dry walls and piles, dry walls parallel to the construction, revitalisation and restoration of terrain incline, and dry walls that have minimal MAP 1 - Overview map of landscape units and the existing facilities, preservation of the exist- functions (e.g. smaller fence dry walls) are re- areas ing structure of land use and recognized valu- moved. Massive inner and outer piles and under MAP 2 - Landscape assessment map depicts able natural elements. Exceptional landscapes walls, dry walls enclosing paths, recognizable dry cultural-historical and natural values of the land- are: central and coastal pastures, Tramunatna and wall structures (steps, cisterns, shelters, etc.) are scape, and visual exposure thereof. Assessment Predošćica, Osor with salt marshes, olive groves not to be removed. If the merging is signifi cant, of cultural-historical value of the landscape im- around the town of Cres, Lake Vrana Category II - Valuable landscapes - moderate it is necessary to incorporate enclosures with- plies integrity of cultural-historical elements of protection regime, with focus on improvement in the structure, or plan a new parcel in a way a certain area, based on which it is possible to of the landscape character (signifi cant agri- that it combines various sorts, cultures, cultiva- observe the capacity of the testimony of tra- cultural revitalization measures, integration of tion manners, etc. Merging of bigger dimensions ditional culture in use and management of the new activities, provision of guidelines for new should not be followed by monotonous image of land, settlements and its other cultural-historical construction). Landscapes within this category one sort or one cultivation manner. features: are: coastal sides of Punta Križa and Valun bay, MEASURE - INTENSIVE AGRICULTURE 3 – On - Preservation of the traditional character of the rural complexes with Gerbin bay and Drago- the terrain that wasn’t traditionally agriculturally landscape represented by its functional, structur- zetići-Filozići and Planis cultivated, it is essential to follow slope charac- al and historical characteristics, where anthropo- Category III - free regime of management that teristics, relief forms and soil accumulation (e.g. genic impact within space is integrated in a way suggests new purposes and activities (changing cultivating alluvial soil in torrents and slopes must that it rationally uses natural resources (water, the landscape character); depicts areas (relict be terraced, while cultivation within depressions soil, forest) structures or areas with already existing trend must be followed by dry wall enclosures). of intensifi ed agriculture) that should be reacti- - Presence and/or preservation of singular tra- vated, but by implementation of contemporary MEASURE - INTENSIVE AGRICULTURE 4 – To ditional and other historical facilities and struc- agricultural measures. New construction re- explore the potential of fertile sinkholes scat- tures like shepherds’ dwellings, sheepfolds (mr- quires provision of guidelines. These areas stand tered among pastures, which can be used for gari), traditional paths, etc. vegetable growth; intensive agriculture within out: stepped dry stone walls (barbakani) east of - Presence and/or comprehensibility of tradition- Loznati and south of Lake Vrana and the central extensive sinkholes. al practices; management of forests, pastures, etc. valley of Punta Križa MEASURE - CONSTRUCTION 1 – To create Natural value of a landscape is based on a sense Coastal sides are articulated within two regimes; catalogues of construction types for new agri- of naturalness, i.e., the subjective assessment of complete prohibition of spatial interventions cultural facilities within new farms (e.g., three the force and recognisability of natural process- and possible intervention according to provided categories: from the most sensitive areas of the es and elements and absence of anthropogenic guidelines (green). Suggested potential improve- landscape to the least fragile areas) impact. At the same time, it implies presence of ments of historical paths will contribute to accessibility of the area, preservation of historical/ MEASURE - CONSTRUCTION 2 – To defi ne a natural landscape element that signifi cantly in- natural character and connecting of exceptional measures of revitalization of existing traditional fl uences the landscape character (recorded plant facilities, especially shepherds’ dwellings. habitats, valuable resources of soil, water, etc.) landscapes. 65 REFERENCES AND 2, HAZU, 265-275 28. Ecole Nationale Supérieure du Paysage de Versailles-Marseille; Conseil Régional PACA; 15. Buzjak, N. (1997) Krško podzemlje otoka izvor: http://pas.regionpaca.fr/soutien-a-lingen- OTHER SOURCES: Cresa, Geografski horizont, god. 43, br. 2, 109- ierie-et-recherche-dans-les-territoires/ecole-na- 117 BOOKS, DISSERTATIONS, tionale-superieure-du-paysage-de-versailles.html 16. Duić-Kowalsky, N. (1997) Polazne odrednice DIPLOMA THESES: 29. 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Local Development Pilot Project ISLAND OF CRES

This document was prepared and printed with the support of the Council of Europe within the Local Development Pilot Project which is implemented as a part of the Regional Programme on Cultural and Natural Heritage in South East Europe (RPSEE).

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