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Functional Ingredients Personal Care Eco-Design functional ingredients personal care eco-design As a formulator or manufacturer, you When natural, functional, stable In the cosmetics and personal are non-renewable, we chose to know that cosmetic innovation is not and sustainable matter care industry, emollients typically look for an alternative made from only about identifying entirely new Today our specialised knowledge make up the largest part of most agricultural sources. Ethanol was sources, ingredients or formulations. in lipid ingredients brings highly formulations, particularly within the best choice due to its easy It is also about finding new ways appreciated benefits to local, regional skin care. This makes them the availability and low environmental and global cosmetic brands. All our to use, improve or replace parts of best place to start when looking impact. them, inspired by evolving demands ingredients originate from renewable, to improve the sustainability profile from consumers, society and natural sources and are carefully of your formulations. Sustainable processing regulators. That’s where we can help. processed to achieve desired functionality, stability and safety. By considering eco-designed With the question of raw materials Specialists in lipids Furthermore, we use low-energy alternatives early on during the addressed, we turned our focus for more than a century processing methods to reduce their design phase, you can create to another crucial dimension of At AAK Personal Care we develop ecological footprint. formulations that will advance eco-design – processing condi- high-performance, active, functional your efforts farther and faster. Our tions. Conventional processes for and natural based lipids for use in Supporting your innovation innovative ester, Lipex SheaLight, making esters require high amounts skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics The development of unique is one such alternative, and an of energy as well as catalysts that and other personal care products. ingredients is one way we help you example of how we apply these are less advantageous from an With more than 100 years of ex- to stay aligned with global trends. same eco-design principles. environmental perspective. perience working with vegetable oils, But we don’t stop there. In contrast, Lipex SheaLight is AAK’s expertise is unequalled. To fully support your innovation Sensible alternatives made using lower temperatures, Our science-based product devel- process we provide ever-important Our objective with Lipex SheaLight shorter processing times and bio- opment, technical expertise and technical support, claims substan- was to create a sustainable ester degradable catalysts – all helping technological know-how are highly tiation, idea proposals, knowledge regarded and a guarantee for sharing and inspiration. Together with that could deliver light skin feel and to reduce energy consumption consistently high quality. our focus on functionality, this makes good stability. We chose shea as and the greenhouse gas footprint. us ideally suited to help you create the base material because of its more specialised and sustainable favourable fatty acid composition Award-winning achievement cos metics that consumers are and significance for conservation Our efforts have truly paid off. looking for – your masterpieces and development in West Africa. At the 2014 Sustainable Cosmetics in the making. Esters, however, require an Summit in Paris, Lipex SheaLight alcohol. And because synthetic was named Best Sustainable alcohols traditionally used for esters Ingredient! Content: Bioactives 4 Emollients 6 Structuring Agents 10 Emulsifiers & Surfactants 11 AAK ACADEMY™ 12 Approvals and Certifications 12 Application advice 14 2 3 bioactives Products INCI (EU) Documented Description/Applications Use level naturally-derived bioactive lipids Functionality Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Barrier strengthening Shea butter triterpene ester 0,3–0,5% Parkii (in vitro, ex vivo) concentrate. Long-term protection Butter Extract Collagen protecting against environmental stress. When it comes to protecting skin AAK patented fractionation technol- applications. The lipophilic nature (in vitro, ex vivo) Protection against premature ageing. against environmental stress and ogy, we have been able to develop makes them readily bioavailable and Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Triterpene ester content 50–65%. premature ageing, our naturally-derived and manufacture exceptional bio- highly functional, allowing low-use Skin care and makeup. bioactives have proven very powerful. active ingredients. concentrations. Their good skin Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol 0,5–2% Even in small doses, these ingredients Our bioactives feature high con- tolerance with documented Glycerides concentrate. Helps to supplement have demonstrated large benefits centrations of anti-oxidative natural non-irritancy and non-sensitising skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. through excellent anti-inflammatory tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti- properties make them well suited for Skin care and makeup. and collagen protecting properties. inflammatory phytosterols and their high-end facial skin care, sensitive esters, as well as triterpene esters skin and dermo-cosmetic applica- Utilising the bioactivity appreciated for their skin protecting tions. The high stability profile further of minor lipids and revitalising properties. allows for applications within caring Our anti-ageing bioactives are colour cosmetics. scientifically developed to utilise the Well-documented functionality By including a natural based inherent bioactivity of the minor and skin tolerance Lipex bioactive in your formulations, lipids found in sustainable sources Lipex bioactives are well- you can more easily meet the of canola oil and shea butter. Using charact erised lipophilic ingredients objective of well-protected and our soft processing and unique for safe use within personal care younger-looking skin. 4 5 emollients Bioactive Emollients Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) Softening Photo Protecting Anti- inflammatory Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • Canola oil with unique composition of natural 2–5% (Canola) tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and Our decades of experience within Leading manufacturer of shea Other natural sources lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. lipid technology has enabled us to based emollients Illipe, mango, canola, cocoa and Skin care, hair care and makeup. develop advanced, high-performance With more than 60 years of presence coconut are examples of other naturally-derived emollients with high in West Africa, we control and ensure natural sources used in our emollient stability and long shelf life. This lipid the highest quality in all aspects of range. Each of these sources is Performance Emollients expertise is clearly evidenced the shea butter supply chain: sourcing, carefully chosen, processed and through a long list of alternative processing and manufacturing. This in some cases mixed to obtain the Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level butters, gels, oils and esters. is your guarantee for outstanding exact chemical profile you need for (Origin) Over the years AAK scientists consistent quality and stability. developing the specific cosmetic Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture have constantly refined and improved formulation and consumer performance of our emollients to experience you envision. Solids actively contribute to the efficacy, functionality and sensory aspects Lipex Theobroma Cacao Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% • • • • of your final formulations. CocoaSoft™ Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation (Cocoa) properties versus traditional cocoa butter. Skin care. Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera • • • • Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% (Illipe) Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care. Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum • Refined and deodorised shea butter. 1–2% (Shea) Parkii Butter Low colour and odour. Skin care. Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera • Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the 1–2% (Illipe) Seed Butter Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. Functionality Skin care. first. Semi-solids ™ Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum • • • • Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented 2–15% (Shea) Parkii Butter moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Naturally. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high concentrations and anhydrous formulations. AAK functional Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum • • • • Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for 2–15% emollients for eco- (Shea) Parkii Butter long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care. conscious formulas 6 7 Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin) Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Semi-solids Esters Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides •• • Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. 2–5% Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl • • • • Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety 2–5% (Soybean/Shea) (and) Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and makeup. Esters skin feel. Optimised for makeup and anhydrous Parkii Butter formulations. Unsaponifiables Skin care, hair care and makeup.
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