functional ingredients personal care eco-design

As a formulator or manufacturer, you When natural, functional, stable In the cosmetics and personal are non-renewable, we chose to know that cosmetic innovation is not and sustainable matter care industry, emollients typically look for an alternative made from only about identifying entirely new Today our specialised knowledge make up the largest part of most agricultural sources. Ethanol was sources, ingredients or formulations. in lipid ingredients brings highly formulations, particularly within the best choice due to its easy It is also about finding new ways appreciated benefits to local, regional skin care. This makes them the availability and low environmental and global cosmetic brands. All our to use, improve or replace parts of best place to start when looking impact. them, inspired by evolving demands ingredients originate from renewable, to improve the sustainability profile from consumers, society and natural sources and are carefully of your formulations. Sustainable processing regulators. That’s where we can help. processed to achieve desired functionality, stability and safety. By considering eco-designed With the question of raw materials Specialists in lipids Furthermore, we use low-energy alternatives early on during the addressed, we turned our focus for more than a century processing methods to reduce their design phase, you can create to another crucial dimension of At AAK Personal Care we develop ecological footprint. formulations that will advance eco-design – processing condi- high-performance, active, functional your efforts farther and faster. Our tions. Conventional processes for and natural based lipids for use in Supporting your innovation innovative ester, Lipex SheaLight, making esters require high amounts skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics The development of unique is one such alternative, and an of energy as well as catalysts that and other personal care products. ingredients is one way we help you example of how we apply these are less advantageous from an With more than 100 years of ex- to stay aligned with global trends. same eco-design principles. environmental perspective. perience working with vegetable oils, But we don’t stop there. In contrast, Lipex SheaLight is AAK’s expertise is unequalled. To fully support your innovation Sensible alternatives made using lower temperatures, Our science-based product devel- process we provide ever-important Our objective with Lipex SheaLight shorter processing times and bio- opment, technical expertise and technical support, claims substan- was to create a sustainable ester degradable catalysts – all helping technological know-how are highly tiation, idea proposals, knowledge regarded and a guarantee for sharing and inspiration. Together with that could deliver light skin feel and to reduce energy consumption consistently high quality. our focus on functionality, this makes good stability. We chose shea as and the greenhouse gas footprint. us ideally suited to help you create the base material because of its more specialised and sustainable favourable fatty acid composition Award-winning achievement cos metics that consumers are and significance for conservation Our efforts have truly paid off. looking for – your masterpieces and development in West Africa. At the 2014 Sustainable Cosmetics in the making. Esters, however, require an Summit in Paris, Lipex SheaLight alcohol. And because synthetic was named Best Sustainable alcohols traditionally used for esters Ingredient!

Content: Bioactives 4 Emollients 6 Structuring Agents 10 Emulsifiers & Surfactants 11 AAK ACADEMY™ 12 Approvals and Certifications 12 Application advice 14

2 3 bioactives

Products INCI (EU) Documented Description/Applications Use level naturally-derived bioactive lipids Functionality

Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Barrier strengthening Shea butter triterpene ester 0,3–0,5% Parkii (in vitro, ex vivo) concentrate. Long-term protection Butter Extract Collagen protecting against environmental stress. When it comes to protecting skin AAK patented fractionation technol- applications. The lipophilic nature (in vitro, ex vivo) Protection against premature ageing. against environmental stress and ogy, we have been able to develop makes them readily bioavailable and Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Triterpene ester content 50–65%. premature ageing, our naturally-derived and manufacture exceptional bio- highly functional, allowing low-use Skin care and makeup. bioactives have proven very powerful. active ingredients. concentrations. Their good skin Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol 0,5–2% Even in small doses, these ingredients Our bioactives feature high con- tolerance with documented Glycerides concentrate. Helps to supplement have demonstrated large benefits centrations of anti-oxidative natural non-irritancy and non-sensitising skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. through excellent anti-inflammatory tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti- properties make them well suited for Skin care and makeup. and collagen protecting properties. inflammatory phytosterols and their high-end facial skin care, sensitive esters, as well as triterpene esters skin and dermo-cosmetic applica- Utilising the bioactivity appreciated for their skin protecting tions. The high stability profile further of minor lipids and revitalising properties. allows for applications within caring Our anti-ageing bioactives are colour cosmetics. scientifically developed to utilise the Well-documented functionality By including a natural based inherent bioactivity of the minor and skin tolerance Lipex bioactive in your formulations, lipids found in sustainable sources Lipex bioactives are well- you can more easily meet the of canola oil and shea butter. Using charact erised lipophilic ingredients objective of well-protected and our soft processing and unique for safe use within personal care younger-looking skin.

4 5 emollients Bioactive Emollients Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Photo Protecting Anti- inflammatory Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • Canola oil with unique composition of natural 2–5% (Canola) tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and Our decades of experience within Leading manufacturer of shea Other natural sources lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. lipid technology has enabled us to based emollients Illipe, mango, canola, cocoa and Skin care, hair care and makeup. develop advanced, high-performance With more than 60 years of presence coconut are examples of other naturally-derived emollients with high in West Africa, we control and ensure natural sources used in our emollient stability and long shelf life. This lipid the highest quality in all aspects of range. Each of these sources is Performance Emollients expertise is clearly evidenced the shea butter supply chain: sourcing, carefully chosen, processed and through a long list of alternative processing and manufacturing. This in some cases mixed to obtain the Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level butters, gels, oils and esters. is your guarantee for outstanding exact chemical profile you need for (Origin) Over the years AAK scientists consistent quality and stability. developing the specific cosmetic Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture have constantly refined and improved formulation and consumer performance of our emollients to experience you envision. Solids actively contribute to the efficacy, functionality and sensory aspects Lipex Theobroma Cacao • • • • Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% of your final formulations. CocoaSoft™ Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation (Cocoa) properties versus traditional cocoa butter. Skin care. Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera • • • • Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. 2–5% (Illipe) Seed Butter Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Skin care. Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum • Refined and deodorised shea butter. 1–2% (Shea) Parkii Butter Low colour and odour. Skin care. Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera • Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the 1–2% (Illipe) Seed Butter Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. Functionality Skin care.

first. Semi-solids ™ Lipex SheaSoft Butyrospermum • • • • Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented 2–15% (Shea) Parkii Butter moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Naturally. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high concentrations and anhydrous formulations. AAK functional Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum • • • • Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for 2–15% emollients for eco- (Shea) Parkii Butter long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care. conscious formulas

6 7 Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level (Origin)

Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture

Semi-solids Esters Lipex L´sens™ Soybean Glycerides •• • Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. 2–5% Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl • • • • Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety 2–5% (Soybean/Shea) (and) Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and makeup. Esters skin feel. Optimised for makeup and anhydrous Parkii Butter formulations. Unsaponifiables Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated • •• Stable semi-solid emollient based on coco- 2–5% Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl • • Liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity and low 2–5% (Coco-glycerides) Coco-glycerides glycerides. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Esters spreadability. Quick absorption and velvety skin feel. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Use level

Liquids Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl • • Eco-designed liquid shea butter ester. 5–15% Lipex Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea oil for clear formulations and cold 2–80% Esters Low viscosity. Light and silky soft skin feel. SheaClear™ Parkii Oil processing. Suitable for all types of moisturising Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care, sun care and makeup. (Shea) and softening body oils, face oils and hair oils. A mild ingredient for baby oils and lotions. Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea butter with enriched content of triterpene 2–5% High Stability Base Emollients (Shea) Parkii Butter (or) esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. Butyrospermum Skin care, hair care and makeup. Parkii Oil Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Lipex Butyrospermum • • • Liquid shea butter from a traceable supply chain with 2–5% SheaLiquid™ TR Parkii Butter (or) enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture (Shea) Butyrospermum Contributes to good skin health. Parkii Oil Skin care, hair care and makeup. Semi-solids Lipex Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with optimised balance of 2–5% Akogel™ Hydrogenated • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Omega 3/6™ Camelina Sativa omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids (3:1) from Gold of Vegetable Oil consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). (Gold of Pleasure) Seed Oil Pleasure oil. Essential omega fatty acids for restoring Skin care and makeup. skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akogel Plus™ Hydrogenated • • • • Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like 5–15% Vegetable Oil consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110°C). Lipex Omega Olus Oil (and) • • Stable delivery system with evening primrose oil 2–5% Skin care and makeup. EPO™ Oenothera Biennis Oil (gamma linolenic acid). Essential omega fatty acids (Evening Primrose) for restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Liquids Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium • • Cottonseed oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% Lipex Bassol C™ Olus Oil (or) • Renewable clear high stability oil (OSI 40h, 110°C). 5–15% (Cottonseed) Herbaceum Seed Oil antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6 fatty acids. Canola Oil Alternative to mineral/synthetic emollients and Skin care and hair care. vegetable oils with short shelf life. Suitable for cold processing. Lipex 120™ Canola Oil • • Canola oil stabilised with an optimised natural 2–3% Skin care and hair care. (Canola) antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids. Skin care. High Oleic Brassica Campestris • Canola oil with prolonged shelf life (OSI 16hours, 5–15% Brassica Oil™ Seed Oil 110°C). Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids. Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica • A golden oil from the seeds of the mango fruit. 2–3% Skin care. (Mango) Seed Oil Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus • Cold clear high oleic (omega-9) sunflower seed oil. 5–15% Hybrid Oil Prolonged shelf life (OSI 20h, 110°C) compared to traditional sunflower seed oil. Skin care. Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric • Caprylic/capric triglyceride oil with long shelf life 5–15% Triglyceride (OSI>100h, 110°C). Skin care and makeup.

8 9 structuring emulsifiers agents & surfactants

Our structuring agents offer good Based on vegetable fats, these The composition of the emollient and When creating shampoos, liquid crystallisation behaviour and choice triglyceride ingredients are designed emulsifier you choose will always soaps, shower gels and other of melting profiles to help you achieve to show good compatibility with influence the viscosity, stability and cleansing products, our water- precisely the texture and consistency other cosmetic ingredients when skin feel of your cosmetic formulation. soluble shea butter helps to reduce that consumers want from skin care structuring all types of emulsions Our line of vegetable derived emul- potential eye and skin irritation typi- and makeup products. and anhydrous formulations, partic- sifiers – Akoline – brings you high cal of other surfactants. With good ularly decorative cosmetics such as quality ingredients renowned for their foaming properties and viscosity lipsticks and pencils. mildness. Well suited for natural skin control, the ethoxylated shea butter care, they provide pleasant, soft and makes an outstanding ingredient in elegant formulations. all categories, including baby care and products for sensitive skin.

Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level Products INCI (EU) Description/Applications Use level

Emulsifiers Viscosity enhancer Skin conditioner Solubiliser Texture Akofine R™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric • • Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high solubi- 1–3% Vegetable Oil (mp 58-60°C) and good thermal stability. Stabilises oil Glycerides lisation capacity. Co-emulsifier for o/w emulsions. based dispersions and increases texture in anhydrous Suitable for microemulsion formulations. (HLB 8–9). and emulsion formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. ™ Akoline GC Hydrogenated • • Polar anionic/non-ionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 11). 1–4% Akofine P™ Hydrogenated • Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point 1–5% Vegetable Releases citric acid giving improved skin Vegetable Oil (mp 59-61°C). Stabilises structure and increases Glycerides Citrate firmness and smoothness. temperature resistance in anhydrous formulations. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl • • Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17). 0,2–1% Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated • Structurising triglyceride base for pencils and 5–15% Lactylate Stabilises liquid crystals. Releases lactic acid Vegetable Oil stick formulations. Sharp melting point at giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. body temperature (mp 34-36°C). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Skin care and makeup. Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate • • Anionic emulsifier for o/w creams and lotions. 1–3% Citrate (HLB 12). Can be used in cold processing. Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akoline PG7™ Polyglyceryl-3 • Non-ionic o/w emulsifier giving shiny emulsions. 2–5% Stearate Stabilises liquid crystals. (HLB 7). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 • An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and 2–5% Polyricinoleate dispersion stabiliser. (HLB 3–4). Skin care, hair care and makeup. Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • Water-soluble shea butter. Mild non-ionic surfactant. 1–3% Glycerides Improves viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse-off hair and body care formulations.

10 11 ™ HALAL TAYYIB Approvals & H00103 A0097 AAK ACADEMY 01613 AS Certifications Products 2-0001-04-100-00 ® Traceable the knowledge centre for applied lipid technology Bioactives

Different types of official and private Lipex SheaTris™ • standards are important tools when Emollients developing formulations to meet market demands. AAK Personal Akogel™ • • • Care strives to provide ingredients Akogel Plus™ • • • that not only fulfil demands for Akomed R™ • • functionality, but also provide Akosoft 36™ • • ™ compliance for approval by various Akosun • Lipex Bassol C™ certifying bodies. • • Lipex 102™ • All AAK Personal Care ingredients Lipex 106™ • based on palm oil are sourced and Lipex 109 S™ • certified RSPO Mass Balance (MB). Lipex 120™ • Use the table to the right as Lipex 205™ • ™ guidance for selecting ingredients Lipex CocoaSoft • • • At AAK, ‘The Art of Oils’ is all about Topics Lipex IllipeSoft™ approved and/or certified according • • using our technological know-how • Skin health Lipex L’sens™ • • to specific standards. For the latest ™ and skills to bring out the superb • Lipids – essential skin nutrients Lipex Omega 3/6 • • functionality of renewable, vegetable status updates, official certificates Lipex Omega EPO™ • Vegetable derived, • derived lipids. The AAK Academy is and letters of approval, please Lipex PreAct™ • • renewable sources ™ all about sharing lipid insights and contact AAK Personal Care. Lipex Shea • • • Sustainable processing ™ know-how, to make you a master in Lipex Shea W • • Shelf life optimisation Lipex Shea WM™ technical application, because the • • • Optimal emollient blend for Lipex SheaLight™ more you know about lipid techno- • skin care Lipex SheaSoft™ • • logy, the easier it is to find the best ™ • Creating texture by combining Lipex SheaLiquid TR • • solution for your formulation. waxes and emollients Lipex SheaClear™ • As a customer of AAK Personal ™ • Consistency and skin feel High Oleic Brassica Oil • Care you have unique access to • Crystallisation and rheology AAK’s team of lipid experts through the AAK Academy. Attending our • Lipid based emulsifiers Structuring Agents courses is a great way for product developers and formulators to Akofine R™ • ™ learn more about the technology. Akofine P • • • ™ It also paves the way for open and Lipex BC • • • construc tive dialogue that can con- Emulsifiers tinue to pay benefits in your future work with cosmetic formulations. Akoline GC™ • • • We offer open and closed Akoline LC™ • • • courses ranging from basic Akoline MCM™ • • lipid know-how focused on lipid Akoline PG7™ For more information about the • • • • chemistry, sustainable processing Akoline PGPR™ AAK Academy program kindly visit • ™ and functionality in different appli- www.aakpersonalcare.com Akoline SL • • • cations, to more advanced courses For more information about closed, customer in lipid crystallisation and rheology. specific seminars, mail [email protected]

12 Application Advice

Products INCI (EU) care Skin – Face and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun care Baby – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Makeup – foundations and makeup facial Makeup – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos conditioners and Styling and leave-in conditioners Products INCI (EU) care Skin – Face and Body Rinse-off/Wash – Face and Body Sun care – SPF and After Sun care Baby – oils, lotions and creams Dermo-cosmetics Makeup – foundations and makeup facial Makeup – sticks, pencils and powders Hair care – rinse-off shampoos conditioners and Styling and leave-in conditioners

Bioactives Esters

Lipex SheaTris™ Butyrospermum Parkii • • • • • Lipex Shea W™ Shea Butter Cetyl Esters • • • Butter Extract Lipex Shea WM™ Shea Butter Oleyl Esters • • • • • • Lipex Cellect™ Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides • • • • • Lipex SheaLight™ Shea Butter Ethyl Esters • • • • • • •

Bioactive Emollients High Stability Base Emollients Semi-solids Lipex PreAct™ Canola Oil • • • • • • • • • Akogel™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • • • Performance Emollients Akogel Plus™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • • • • • • • • Solids Liquids Lipex CocoaSoft™ Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex IllipeSoft™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • • • • • Lipex Bassol C™ Olus Oil (or) Canola Oil • • • • • • Lipex 102™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter High Oleic Brassica Campestris Seed Oil • ™ • • • Lipex 106™ Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter • Brassica Oil Akosun™ Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil • • • Semi-solids Akomed R™ Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride • • • •

Lipex SheaSoft™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • Structuring Agents Lipex Shea™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • Lipex L’sens™ Soybean Glycerides (and) • • • • • • • • Akofine R™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Akofine P™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Unsaponifiables • • Lipex BC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil • • Akosoft 36™ Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides • • • • • Emulsifiers & Surfactants Liquids Akoline MCM™ Caprylic/Capric Glycerides • • • • • • Lipex SheaClear™ Butyrospermum Parkii Oil • • • • • • Akoline GC™ Hydrogenated Vegetable • • • • • • Lipex 205™ Butyrospermum Parkii Butter • • • • • • • • Glycerides Citrate (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil • • Akoline SL™ Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate • • • • • • • Lipex Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Akoline LC™ Glyceryl Stearate Citrate ™ • • • • • • • • • • • • • • SheaLiquid TR (or) Butyrospermum Parkii Oil Akoline PG7™ Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate • • • • • • Lipex Omega 3/6™ Olus Oil (and) Camelina • • • • • • Akoline PGPR™ Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate • • • • • Sativa Seed Oil Lipex 102 E75™ PEG-75 Shea Butter • • • • Lipex Omega EPO™ Olus Oil (and) Oenothera • • • • • • Glycerides Biennis Oil Lipex 109 S™ Gossypium Herbaceum • Seed Oil Lipex 120™ Canola Oil • Lipex 203™ Mangifera Indica Seed Oil • •

14 15 Version 3: 2017

‘The Art of Oils’ Some define art as the human capacity to create through imaginative or technical skill. At AAK Personal Care we use our technological know-how and skills to bring out the superb functionality of lipids found in renewable oils. We call it ‘The Art of Oils’.

AAK Sweden AB AAK USA Inc. AAK China Ltd. AAK Personal Care 499 Thornall St., 5th Floor 6F, Building 6, #3601 SE-374 82 Karlshamn Sweden Edison, NJ 08837 USA Dongfang Road, Shanghai China 200125 Phone +46 454 820 00 Phone +1 973 741 5049 Phone +86 21 6466 7979

For contact information to our international distributors please visit aakpersonalcare.com