With Soaring Towers, Condo Complexes and Mammoth
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FRIDAY 04 NOVEMBER, 2016 Kuala Lumpur’s best green escapes ith soaring towers, condo complexes and mammoth malls crowding the streets and skyline of Kuala Lumpur W(KL), it’s reassuring to know that Mother Nature contin- ues to have a significant stake in and around the Malaysian cap- ital. What other city, for example, has a pocket of primary rainfor- est at its heart that’s home to a troupe of silvered leaf monkeys? FRIDAY 04 NOVEMBER, 2016 KL Forest Eco Park rush off as the park is threaded with several short hiking trails. mind when he gained permission from the colonial adminis- It was just under 160 years ago that 87 Chinese prospectors There’s also a new canopy walkway that puts you at eye level tration to create a botanical garden around the Sungai Bras paddled up the Klang River in search of tin deposits, thus with the tops of the soaring trees, such as Jelutong and Bras stream. That 1888 project resulted in the Lake Gardens, a establishing the settlement that would become KL. If the Merawan Batu, some of which are as old as KL itself. 101-hectare green district now officially known as the Tun ghosts of those men returned to the city today, the one spot Go in search of the herbal and orchid gardens behind the Abdul Razak Heritage Park, after Malaysia’s second prime min- they would likely still recognize is the KL Forest Eco Park, a Forest Information Centre (located on Jln Raja Chulan at the ister. lush island of primary forest surrounded by some of the city’s southwestern base of the hill), and you’re also likely to At the park’s heart, the Perdana Botanical Garden remains a most expensive real estate. encounter the resident troupe of silvered leaf monkeys. showcase for local flora and fauna with sections dedicated to The park occupies 9.3 hectares of Bukit Nanas, a hill that Watching these animals as they swing between the branches multiple varieties of hibiscus and orchid flowers. You’ll also once was the location of a long-gone Malay fort and is so and nonchalantly groom each other to a soundtrack of chirp- find a small enclosure that’s home to mouse and spotted deer, named because pineapple (nanas) trees once grew around its ing insects and twittering birdsong, you’ll get a sense of what a boating lake and a creatively designed kid’s playground. base, their spiky foliage providing a natural defensive wall. the area was like when the rainforest stretched as far as the Fanciers of feathered friends should fly straight to the park’s Today visitors are very welcome, with a paved road leading to eye could see. fabulous aviary, the KL Bird Park. Alongside ostriches, eagles, the summit crowned by one of the city’s top tourist attractions flamingos and parrots, you can also see a pair of rhinoceros and visual icons, the Menara Kuala Lumpur. Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park hornbill, Malaysia’s national bird. One of them is often found Having taken in the 360-degree panorama of the city and Nature tamed and shaped into pleasing, tiger-free vistas hopping among the trees close by the balcony of the Hornbill its surrounds from the 421m telecommunications tower, don’t was what Alfred Venning, Selangor State Treasurer, had in Restaurant, a great spot for close-up photography. FRIDAY 04 NOVEMBER, 2016 Titiwangsa Lake Gardens KL’s second lake gardens park, Titiwangsa capitalizes on its setting on the northeast fringe of the city. The views across the mirrored surface of the lake towards the distinctive outlines of the nearby theatre Istana Budaya and, further away, the Petronas Towers and Menara KL, are stunning - particularly at dusk, as the city’s night lights flicker into life. Westwards, there are also grand- stand views of The Capers @ Sentul East, a wavy-shaped pair of condo towers which stretch up 40 storeys. Popular with courting couples who come to stroll around the lake edge, Titiwangsa also has a jogging track, exercise area and plenty of options for float- ing on the lake from regular rowboats to giant transparent spher- ical balloons. Forest Research Institute of Malaysia At Kepong, 16km northwest of central KL, is the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM), established in 1929 to con- duct research into the sustainable management of the country’s rainforests. Covering 600 hectares, this lush compound includes the remains of an old settlement of the Orang Asli, the indige- nous people of Malaysia, arboretums and a pond that’s home to a giant araipama, a South American freshwater fish. FRIM is a justifiably popular location for casual strolls under the shade of soaring trees, as well as more strenuous hikes such as the one that ascends a steep hill to reach a 200m-long canopy walkway that hangs 30m above the forest floor. To calm your nerves as you traverse the swaying footbridges between the trees, keep your eyes peeled for birds and monkeys as well as the distinctive KL skyline in the distance. The Quartz Ridge Superb panoramic views of the city in one direction and of the Klang Gates reservoir in the other are the reward for summiting Bukit Tabur, on the northeast fringe of the city near Taman Melawati. The hill is 386m high, but it’s a challenging hike as it follows the world’s longest pure crystal quartz outcrop. Taking around three hours, the trail is not for the unfit or faint-hearted, with potentially lethal sheer drops off the mountain trail into the dense surrounding forest and short sections where you’ll be clinging to ropes to negotiate the steeper sections of rock. Following a couple of fatal accidents on the trail in recent years, a hiking permit is required from the Selangor Tengah Forest Office, although in practice hardly any hikers arrange this. It is a good idea, however, to tackle the trail in the company of experienced guides or those who know what they are doing: if you go at the weekend - especially on a Sunday - you won’t be alone, as the hike is a highly popular form of exercise. Go early in the morning for the clearest views and the coolest temperatures. — www.lonelyplanet.com .