CENSUS OF INDIA 1981
PART iX-D
SERIES--5
GUJARAT
HANDICRAFTS SURVEY ON WOOLLEN BLANKET
.J.K. PATEL Deputy Diredor of Census Operations, Gujarat~ Ahmadabad. tIST OF CENTRES WHERE WOOLLEN BLANKET CRAFT IS PRACTISED
SL. NO. VILLAGE DISTRICT TALUKA 4 1 2 3
1 Kalavadsimani .MNAGAR Khambhaliya 2 Khambhaliya (Urban) Jamjodhpur 3 Balva 4 Narmana Jamna.ga.r 5 (Urban) Kalavad 6 Pata Meghpar Jodiya 7 Meghpar 8 Madhapar 9 Pithad 10 Lakhtat 11 Kunad 12 Anada 13 Dudhai 14 Keshia Lalipur Dhrol 15 16 Dhrol (Urban) 17 Khakhar " Olhamandal 18 Khatumba 19 Vasai 20 Rajpura 21 Varavala 22 BhiDlrana
Kalyanpur 23 Patelka 24 Haripar
25 Rampara SURENDRANAGAR. . Wadhwan 26 Dudhrej 27 Kothariya 28 Munjpur 29 Surendranagat(lJrban) 30 Baldana 31 Vadod 32 Memka 33 Vastadi 34 Gundiyala 35 Dedadara 36 Wadhwan (Urb,m) 37 Karangadh 38 Kholadiad Dasada 39 Kathada 40 Savias 41 BaJana KHP' lJmbdi 42 Ankewaliya 43 Parnala 44 Zobala 45 Chuda (i) (U)
1 2 3 4
SURENDRANAGAR Limbdi 46 Boma 47 Panshina 48 Limbdi (Urb_a) 49 Tokarala 50 Shiani Muli 51 Cilanpar 52 Tikar Dhrangadhra 53 Je!llda 54 Jive 55 Dhrangadhra (Urban) Sayala 56 Sayala (Urban) 57 Sudamda Lakhtar 58 Vadla 59 Devalia 60 Dervala
RAJKOT Rajkot 61 Rajkot (Urban) Jasdan 62 Parewala Lodhika 63 Pardi Morvi 64 Morvi (Urban) 65 Tankara (Urban) 66 Barwala Lathi 67 Damnagar (Urban) AMRELI 68 Lathi (U rban) Dhari 69 Chalala (Urban) 70 Gopalgram Annli 71 Rangpur 72 Jalla 73 Chita} 74 Am:teli (Urban) Lilia 75 Krankach Kunkavav 76 Bagosara (Urban) 77 Hamapur Porbandar 78 Porbandar (Urban) lUNAGADH 79 Chhaya (Urban) 80 Ratiya 81 Gorsar 82 Kadachb 83 Chingariya 84 Simani Porbandar 85 Bulej (Cantonment) 86 Kucbhdi Kutiyana 81 Roghada 88 Dharsan Ranavav 89 Nerana 90 Aniali Mangrol 91 Sharma 92 Bagasara Ghed 93 Divasa 94 Miti 95 Sangavada Masva 1 2 :3 4 BHAVNAGAR Kundla 99 Sayar Kuudla (Urban) 100 Yanda Ghogha 101 Chhaya 102 Kukad 103 Nana Khokhra 104 Padva Umrala 105 Dhola (Urban) Gadhada 106 Timba 107 Gadhada (Urban) Palitana 108 Randola Talaja 109 Paniyali Vallabhipur 110 Rangpur 111 Kantharia Botad 112 Paliyad (Urban) Bhavnagar 113 Akwada KACHCHH Bhuj 114 Bkr40di 115 Kukma 116 Sarli 117 Varnora Mota 118 Sumarasar Shekhva]i 119 Dhaneti 120 Vadva 121 Mankuva 122 Bhandhara Mota Aojar 123 Dudhai 124 Bhadroi 125 Chandiya 126 Bhimasar 127 Ningal Bhachau 128 Bhachau (Urban) 129 Adhoi (Pasakay"a) 130 Chirai Moti 131 Khodasar Rapar 132 palansva 133 Gagodar 134 Rapar (Urban) Mandvi 135 Durgapor 136 Mandvi (Urban.) Nakhatrana 137 Sangnara f" AHMADABAD. 1-. Dholka 138 Bwla (Urban) 139 Kanotar 140 Dholka Dhandhuka 141 Aniyali (Bhimji) 142 Barvala (Urban) Yiramgam 143 Viramgarn (Urban) 144 Viramgam (Rural) KHBDA Khambhat 145 Chitarwada Petlad 146 Sansej 147 Demol Kapadvanj 148 l(apadvanj (Urban) Borsad 149 Kantharia PANCH MAHALS Jha!od 150 Limdi CONTENTS PAGIlS FOREWORD ix PREFACE xi ACKNOWLEDGEMENT . xii PART-I REPORT CHAPTER I: HISTORY OF ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE CRAFT 1-9 SECTION I: HISTORY 1.1 Origin and Development of Craft 1 State level information 1.2 Important Craft Centres 2 1.3 Community associated with the craft 3 1.4 Number of hous(}holds and workers engaged in the craft by sex (for three centres) 3 1.5 Handicraft objects produced by centres and purpose 3 1.6 Disposal of Finished Products 3 1. 7 Marketing 3 1.8 Different agencies engaged in the development of the craft 3 1.9 Co-operative Societies 4 1.10 Organisational and Administrative aspects of Co-operative Society 5 1.11 Training-cum-Production centres . 9 CHAPTER II : CRAFTSMEN IN THEIR RURAL SETTING 10-29 SECTION II : GENERAL PARTICULARS 2.1 Location, Amenities and Service available in selected villages 10 2.2 Demographic particulars of the solected villages. 10 2.3 Particulars of craftsmen Traditional Artisans-Vankar 15 2.4 Demographic profile of the craftsmen Household and Population etc. 15 2.5 History of growth ,md development of the craft. 26 2.6 Services available to craftsmen in the village or nearly villages 28 CHAPTER III : PROCESS OF LEARNING 30-38 SECTION HI : PROCESS OF LEARNING 3.1 Process of learning 30 3.2 Training received . 35 3.3 Biographical sketche; of the craftsmen 37 CHAPTER IV : MANUFACTURiNG PROCESSES 39-120 SECTION IV : MANUF \CTURNING PROCESS 4.1 Place of work 39 (iv) 1-337 R. G, India/ND/88 (v) 4.2 Purity and pollution associated with the craft 46 4.3 Description of various items manufactured 4.4 Raw material used 75 4.5 Process and technique 9i 4.6 Details of Designs 103 CHAPTER V : MARKETING 121-131 SECTION V : MARKETING 5.1 Marketing 121 5.2 Type of handicraft items, average yearly production, use of item, etc. 121 5.3 Method of Disposal of Furnished Products 124 5.4 Approximate margin of profit earned 127 5.5 Disposal of finishtld products locally/tlxporttld 130 5.6 Demand and Supply of finished Goods 130 5.7 Problems of disposing off finished Products 131 CHAPTER VI : CRAFT AND EMPLOYMENT 132-136 SECTION VI : CRAFT AND EMPLOYMENT 6.1 Period of Origin of the craft 132 CHAPTER Vll : CONCLUSION 137-139 2--337 R. G. India/NDJ88 LIST OF STATEMENT IN TEXT ------Statement Title Page No. No. 1 2 3 I 1 Details of Hand weavers' cooperative societies for ye~rs 1983-84 and 1984-85, District Kachchh. 7 2 Details of Hand weavers' cooperative societies for ye:!r 1983-84 and 1984-85 ,Dj strict Kheda. 8 3 Details about manufactures, craftsmen engaged and annual production in districts where the crafts in practise 9 II Survey data on Demographic particulars of the selected villages 11 2 Number of households engaged as traditional and non-traditional occupation in the handicrafts 15 3 Demographic particulars of craftsmen and their average household size in the selected village., 16 4 Population by age-group in relation to marital status 16 5 Literacy according to the educational level among the craftsmen residing in the selected villages. 17 I) Distribution of size of Households by Age and sex of Head of household. 17 7 Distribution of households by nature of relation of members to Head of Household 18 'l Distribution of households by migration status with reference to place of birth and reasons of migration in relation to head of household. • I 8 ! Distribution of households classified by migration status and duration of stay in the village with reference to head of household. 19 1) Distribution of households \ lassified by nun'tber of worke~s and by main occupational divers: ty . 19 II Hous'3hold ~lassifuJd by 3ex, broad age-group and subsidiary occupation in relation to head of househ'1ld 20 12 Distribution of workers and Non-workers in the selected village. 21 13 Number of illiterates and literates among workers and non-workers by sex in the selected villages 22 14 Distribution of workers classified by traditional and present occupation by sex 22-23 15 Distribution of workers by main activity and subsidiary occupation 24 16 Distribution of non-workers by sex, age and type of activity 25 11 Distribution of workers and non-workers in the selected households who left the craft 26 18 Shri Bhujodi cotton and woollen cooperative ;;ociety-B1mjodi . 28-29 rn Details regal ding source training received by the craftsmen in Chitarwada village }O 2 Details of training received by the craftsmen of Ratiya village. 31 3 Details of training re.:eived by the craftsmen of Bhujodi village 31 4(a) Saliving and Spinning . 32 4(b) Warp making 33 4(c) Weaving 34 5 Total number of persons engaged in the craft who received necessary training from "'Ie various persons for spe :ified. . • • ...... 35 6 Details regarding period engaged in the craft availability of bet'er facility and intcl'lltioll to receive te~jer 36 training.• 1 Persons engaged in the craft and their place of work 39 2 Details about the period of years engaged in the craft by broad age-group and he:lll of household and other than head of household...... '. 40 Distance from place of work and mode of transport 41 .~ Place of work and no. of persons occupy the working area 41 lea) Pt.rsons occupy:ng the working space and problems faced 42 Households oNlling the place of wo,k and working area occupied 46 (vi) (vii) 1 2 3 IV 6 Details about the number of households manufacturing the items, purpose for it is manufactured and use by 67--69 7 Distribution of households manufacturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a month, 71--72 average monthly produrtion and seasonal variation in the production of the items Chitarwada. 8 Distribution of households manufucturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a month, 73 average monthly production and slJlsonal variation in the production of the items-Ratiya. 9 Distribution of households manufacturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a month, 74 average monthly production and seasonal variation in the production of the items-Bhujodi.. . • 10 Raw material used in a each item-Chitarwada 77-78, 11 Raw material used in e 'ch item-Ratiya 80 12 Raw material used in each item--Bhujodi 82 13 Average monthly consumption of raw material by seasonal variation for manufacturing different items of 84-85 handicraft produced- -Chitarwada. 14 Average monthly consumption of raw material by seasonal variatio n for manufacturing different items of handicraft produced-Ratiya. 87 15 Average monthly consumption of raw material by seasonal variation for manufacturing different items of handicraft produced-Bhujodi. , . . . .- ...... 89 16 Total monthly consumption of raw material wool by 20 households, Chitarwada 91 17 Total monthly consumption of raw material of Pankanda, Wheat flour and Colour-Chitarwada 92 18 Monthly consumption of raw material woollen yarn-Ratiya 93 19 Monthly consumption of Pankanda, Wheat flour and Colour-Ratiya 94 20 Monthly consumption of raw material-Woollen yarn-Bhujodi 95 21 Monthly consumption of Pankanda/Dungra, Wheat flour and Colour-Bhrijodi 96 22 Different process carried out in the three centres 97 23 Nature of work and persons who (Process) performed it. 99 24 Use of tools and implements by number of households. . 103 25 Traditional and new designs 110 26 Introduction of designs by relation and period of introduction. 111 27 Period of introduction of designs 111 V 1 Details of the craft objects manufactured in three selected centres 121 2 Details of different handicraft objects manufactured purpose of use of the objects, average per household per annum. 122-123 3 Details relating to the n~1me of handicraft items, the number of houS6holds manufactured the items, yearly 125 proiu::tion, th~ nu n):r of h ) ,Beholds di3posed off the finished goods ttHough different channels (Ratiya).. 3(a) Details relating to the name of handicraft items, number of households manufactured the items, yearly pro- duction, number of households disposed off the finished goods through different channels (Bhujodi).. . 126 4 Number of households manuficturing ;te,ns, total monthly production, total cost-price, total sale price, ap- proximate profit p~r household and per handicraft item in selected villages...... 127-129 5 No. of households manufacturing the item and reported meeting local and outside demand 130 6 Households reporting problems faced in disposing the finished products. . 131 VI Number of hou~ehofds awl :)~rSons eng 'gel1 in the craft from 1940to 1985, Chi[arwada Village 132 2 Number of households and persons engaged in the craft from 1940 to 1985, Ratiya village 132 3 Growth in households and persons engaged in the craft, Bhujodi Village 133 4 Reasons for developing trend in the craft 133 5 Source of livelihood by caste and religion 134 6 Factors considered by households as responsible for making the craft profitable 134 7 Reasons for the improvement in economic position 134 8 Reasons expressed by the head of households wanting their children to continue the craft 135 9 Households reported about younger generation of their community taking interest in the craft with 135 reasons thereof classified by Caste/Tribe/Community of the head of household. • 10 Number of households according to the circumstances compelling/Motivatinl: to take-up the occupation with the period engaged in the craft. 135 11 Households reported the period of association with craft Uti 12 The households impressing satisfaction with the craft 136. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Page No. Map of Gujarat showing the three seltcted centres for woollen blanket study and other Fronti centres where tne craft in practice. spi.:ce PLATE i) Village map of Chitarwada showing the set j lemont pattern 12 (ii) Village map of Ratiya showing the settlement pattern 13 (iii) Village map of Bhujodi showing the f>eUiement pattern . 14 (iv) Ground plans of houses of th~ craftsmen ~howing the area available and living condition of Chitarwada ...... 43 (v) Ground plans of houses of Lhe craftsmen showing th(. area available and living condition of Ratiya ...... 41 (vi) Ground plan~ of houses 01 the craftsmen showing the area availabl-! and living condition of Bhujodi 45 (vii) Sketches of Dhabla (Chitarwada) 48 (viii) Sketches of Tangalia (Chitarwada) 49 (ix) Sketches of Charmalia (Chitarwada) 50 (x) Sketches of Lobdi tChitarwada) . 51 (xi) Photographs of Lobdi and Kamal (Chitarwada) • 52 (xiii Photograph~ of Ta.agalia, Charmalia (Chitarwada) 53 (xiii) Photographs of Chundadi, Shawb and Dhabla 54 (xiv) Photographs of Lady ir her traditional attire and Dy. Diroctor discussing with tbe crafl.smen (Chitarwada) 55 (xv) Photographs of Mafiar, Asaniya, Dhabli (Bhujodi), Sofa Cover 56 (xvi) Photographs of Kachchhi Kora, Kamal 57 \xvii) Ph'Otogratms of Patiya, Betha, Dhusla . 58 (xviii) Photographs of Shaws, Merni Kali, Kamal 59 (xix) Photographs of Dhabla with full designv (This has won Rashtrapati awards), Dhabla with half design" 60 (xx) Photographs of Khati, Ludki, Dhabla (one colour) 61 (xxi) Pholographs of Shawls (Marina wool), Shawls (Tie and Dye) 62 (xxii) Photographs of Shetranji, Galicha, Chaddar (Bed sheet) 63 (niii) Photographs of Chundadi, Sales of finished items . 64 (xxiv) Sketches of raw materials . 76 (xxv) Sketches of tooh and implements . 101 (xxvi) Sketches of traditional and Fly shuttle looms. 102 (xxvii) Sketche~ of spinning process and photographs of winding proctiss 104 (xxviii) Photographs of warp making (Chitarwada and Bhujodi) 105 (xxix) Photographs of sizing process and Dyeing process . 106 (xxx) Photographs of woaving process and ins.:rting designs 107 (x;ui) PhotOil'aphs of stitching the two parts together 108 (xxxii) to (xl) Sketches of motifs woven in different items . 112-120 (viii) FOREWORD The Indian handicrafts are known the world over for their rich variety, grace, alegance and skilled craftmanship. Nev"rtheless a number of handicrafts because of their stiff competition with factory made products, non-availability of raw materials., exhorbitant increase in the manufacturing cost, lack of proper marketing facilities for finis.hed products or due to a variety of other reasons have either become extinct or have reached the moribund stage. After independence, however, a number of schemes were introduced by different government agencies for their growth and development but still this sudden impetus have helped only a few crafts to flourish and thereby become spinners of foreign exchange for the country. Despite the unique position being enjoyed by the handicrafts especially in the real of national eoonomy. the general awareness among the people in the country about our crafts and craftsmen had been deplorably poor. Nothing was practically known about the commodities produced, techniques employed for the manufacture of different objects, raw materials used, the availability, methods adop ted for the sale of finished products etc. An att(}mpt was therefore made in c02lMction with the 1961 Census to study about 150 crafts from different parts of the country with a view to provide basic information on these crafts which were selected for the study. At the 1971 Census, the study on handicrafts was not taken up but this waS again revised in con nection with the 1981 Census. There has been, however, some difference between the studies taken up in connection with the Census of 1961 and 1981. While the 1961 studies have covered botl; rural and urban crafts, the 1981 studies have focused their attention only on traditional rural based (;l"afts. That apart, the 1981 studies besides touching upon those aspects which were covered the 1961 series have laid emphasis on matters that ar~ vital for the revival of rural crafts and there by for the r~juvc nation of the economy of the region particularly the villages. This is in consonance with the policy of the government to give due importance to the rural sector with focus on employment intensive strategy of development in which next to agriculture, the small scale industries and handicrafts playa significant role. The formats required for undertaking the study were fO",llulatcd by Dr. K. P. Ittaman under the able guidance of Dr. N. G. Nag, the then Deputy Registrar General, Social Studies Division. Dr. Ittaman who succeeded Dr. Nag as Deputy Registrar Gene~'al, Social Studio.) Division co-ordinated the study undertaken in differeat States/Union Territories by the Directorates of Census Operations. The reports. received from the Dir~ctorat~s were examiu(.d by Shri M. K. Jain, Senior Research Officer with the help ofSmt. Suman Prashar, AssisLnt Director of Census Operations. I am grateful all of them for organising this. study. The present report is the outcome of a study undertaken on Wool/eil Blanket by the Directorate of Census Operations, G;,jarat. I have immense pleasure in acknowledging the services rendered by Shri J. K. Pde1, Deputy Director and his colleagues in the Census Directorate for bringing out this publication. NEW DELHI, V. S. VERMA the 1st June, 1988 Registrar General, India (ix) PIlE'fI'ACE Handicrafts have always played a v~ry important part in the life of the people of this land and continue to do so even now when in a country which is &1 ill predominantly agricultural, cultivation and handicrafts go hand in hano and enable the people to make their living. In modem limes when mechanisation of industri{'s is the cry of the hour, crafts are no less important tha.l in the past to meet 1 he menace of unemployment and und.:remployment in the countryside. The need for their revival was at no time grea1er than it is today. It was therefore decided to cal ry on a special survey of selected crafts with a view to present a complete picture through a series of monographs as an ancillarv to 1961 Census describing what is produced and how it is produced. An attempt was made in connection with the 1961 CensUs to study about 150 rural and urban crafts from different parts of the country with a view to provid~ basic information on those craf:s which were selected for the ~tudy. It was decided by the offi~e of the Registrar General, India to undertake a study of traditional rural based en.fts which, is in consonance with the policy of Government to give imp:rtance to the rural sector. In Gujarat under the proposed programme of socio-e'~onomic surv':}y, two handicrafts were snlxted in addition to three twonstudy and three villar es re-study. The 'Woollen Blanket' was one of the handicratts sdected for study for which regional variation in pleparai tion of these handicrafts was also kept in view while selecting centres. The Wooll:n Blankets are the famous rural based handicrafts in Gujarat for its traditional intrical.e design and use of primary colour combination. The weaving of woollen is also well-known at th~ State as ","ell as Naliol'al bvel. Th. craft men of Bhujodi and Ratiya viIlagf·s had also ~arned thGir name on the map of India. They were honoured with National Awards for their outstanding contribution in uplining such rural based hanoiclafts. The impOltant a$ptcts like method of weaving. processing, disposing .of. the finished go:)ds an~ services available to the crafLmen, etc., are also attempted to analyse on th~ basls of statIstIcal data collected dunng th:: survey. For th':l purpose of studying this rural based handicraff, thl ~e VIllages, namely, Chitarwada in Gujarat region, Ratiya in Saurashtra region and Bhujodi in Kachchh region were selectCld. In each of these villages 20 sample: households were selected for can va~sing the hou~ehold ~chedules. BtlsiC.es canvassing of household ,Schedules bio-shtches of a few MaSi()r Craft&me.n were also collected and included in the report. The some important inferences have analytical baSi:, the data for which was collected by conducting sample survey of the villages. The nsults included in this report generally refer to the period January-February 1986. Additional data were also collected whenever necessary after this survey period. I expre~~ my ~incere thanks to Shri K.D. Vabhnav, Inv(stigator, who has submitted me the preliminary draft of the i)everal chapter~ of this volume. Shri Vaishnav. on account (f his rich experience as hcharge of 1he Map Section in the pa~t, has also closely supervised the work of preparation of COVt.l De~ign, Maps and variouf> Ske~chl:s included in the repol t, besidt"s the photography work in two centres. The undersigned has not only finali~c'd the report but also draft"ld s.ome chapters straight way. I aho visited villages for on-tho-spot study bEfore finalhing lhe leporl. The field work carried out by the Statistical Assistants was ably supervised by SjShri K.D. Vaishnav and H.D. Solanki Investigators, who also collected important general information dudng their supervision. The names of oth:'.r member~ of ~taff of thi:: Directoratt' who wue closely associated with this work are given MtparaL.. ly. I am thankfli.1 to all of them for thdr valuable conttibution in prepatation of this report I must record my deePft t senst of gratitude to Shfi V. S. Verma, lAS, Registrar General, India for his valuable guidance, encouragement and comlant impiration in hringing out this repor1 in lime. It was a groat pleasure to work undel him. I am also gratefd to Dr. K.P. lUaman. Depu'~y Reg-isbar Gemral. India (S.S.) and Shri M.K. Jain, Senior Research Officer, for clearing the report very early and making sugges1iouc, to prove its u~jlitv. I am al&o lh~nkful to Dr. B.K. Roy, Deputy. R_egi"trar 9'ener;~I,. India (Map), fo~ timely ~l~aring the map~, In fuded in 1hlS report. 1 abo take thIS oppurlumty III expresf>mg my slllcerr thanks to Shn. B.P. Jam, Deputy Din"ctol (PriJ,ling) f.lr his valuable h~lp in printing thi~ report in time. ' 24th April, 1989. J.K. Patel Deputy Director of Census Op';rations, Gujarat, Ahmadabad. (xi) ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Office of the Director of Census Operations, Gujarat Field lftve~tjgation Shri M.K. Shah, Slatir>tical Assistant Shri K.M. Shah, " Shri S.V. Shah, " Shri Y.K. Pandya, " Field Supervision . Shri K.D. Vaishnav, Investigator Shri H.D. Solanki, " Tabulation Work . Kum. N.B. Patel, Computol' Kum. P.N. Parikh, Kum. R.K. Shridhrani, " Smt. K.J. Khambhata, " Smt. M.R. Trivedi, " Sketches Shri J.K. BhrambhaH, Draftsman Shri A.A. Sayad, Kum. N.B. Patel, COlT'PUtoT Ma.ps . Shri B.J. Modi, Sr. Draftsman Shri K.P. Pat'.:], Draftsman Cover Design Shri K.D. Vaishnav, InvestigatOl Shri J.K. Bh.amhhaH, Dr3ft~man Layout Shri K.D. Vaishnav, Investigator Photographs Shri K.D. Vaishnav, Trves1igaior Sh1'i B.D. Subedar, Dlaft<,man Printing & PI"oof R~ading Shri P. K. Chohhi, Printing Inspector Shr; N.H. Shah. Proof R,'adn Shri N.M. Rana, Proof Readel Kum. N.B. Patel, Compulor Final Typing 5hri J.A. Harry, Senior S1enographer Shri P.x. Poly, Junior Stenographer Sh1'i I.B. Soniyavora, L.D.C. Shri B.R. Shukla. L.D.C. hitia.l Draft Shri K.D. Vaishnav, Investigator (xii) CHAPTER I HIsTORY OF ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE cRAFt SECTION I.;.._HISTOR"Y (5) Husting spread on the back of a bone. i.i Otigm rid DeveloPment of craft (6) Varana Kambali: (Commentator reading) The foOd and clothes are the primary needs is a coloured blanket. of the man since the beginning of creation; Though (7) A blanket or bedsheet. $e. food is a prime need of a h~n. bein~. clothing is next to food. After satisfymg his (8) A coat. hwtger, he urges to cover his nakedness and pro tect himself from adverse. climatic conditions from (9) A large blanket or hustings. cold, hot and rainy weather. Man's earliest gar (10) Hustings ipread on the back of an m~t c(:>nsists of skin and hides of animals and elephant. other plant material like leaves and bark of trees known as "Valkal". WO"OI and woollen fabrics are All the more direct reference to sheep farm" known to mankind since ages. We find the ing seems to pertain to the north-west frontier 01 referertce Qf woollen weaving as a highly develop India where it seems to have been a staple industry ed art in the period of Rigveda. The date of Rig and monopoly. The indus region was "SuvaslJ, veda is put as early as 4500 BC by Tilak and Jacobi Urnavati" (Woolly) and produced fine clothing at and lare as 1500 Be by Dr. S. Radhakrishnan. goat and bears hairs. The softest wool was that ProbablY the first source of wool in vedic India of the ewes also of Gandhara region. Paruni w~ wits gQat just as mst skin worn were goat skin wholly and produced bleached or dyed woollen fabric. Paruni wool is mentioned in early passages ·~tJrna", primarily means "hairy covering of any ahirilai" thoqgh it is also used to mean sheep's wool. while Sindhu and Gandhara wool (further west) Reference of woollen .thread "Urna Sutra" is me.n come later, since the people from east moved to the thlned in the later Samhitas . and the Satapatha Punjab in gradual and well-marked stages, the pa.rwU BiahiIlana. The a~e of the later Samhitas is put '*oQI come to be known in the country before the at iOo.o Be hy Radhakri.shnan and 2500 Be further western Gandbara wool. oy Tiiak. There is little indication of the divine or Thus, ancient people were aware of wOollCll ntu,a! sanctity of wool.. The use of wool was not fibres. Spindles and spinning wheel are excavat pf~histori~ and was almost entirely secular. In ed at Moliinjo-daro and Harappa, and according to Atfiarva Veda, kambalas (Blankets) and Samulyas Makai these spindles were probably suited for spin were p,art of the ordinary o~t fit of men and women. ning of woollen or other soft material. Evon Even Pali literature and Artha Shastra of Kau Sumerians had knowledge of woollen fibres. titya speaks of Indian textiles. Kautilya in his book "Mha Shastra" describes various types of woollen According to one opinion Aryans who came to olahlcets used in Maurya regime in 300 BC. India before 2000 Be, had no knowledge of cotton "Blankets" made of sheep's wool may be but were aware of woollen fabrics. In Ramayana white; purely red, or as red as lotus flo~er. and Mahabharat a reference about woonen garment They may be made of worsted threads by sew is available. According to Valmiki. the trouseD ing (Khachita) or may be woven of woollen of Sita consisted of woollen stuff. Mr. Mookerji, thread of various colour (Varna Chitra), or may who in his extensive report upon the subject, c1ai;ms be made of different pieces (Khandasanghatya) or that the ancient literature of the Hindus and the may be woven of uniform woollen thread (Tantu Sanskrit language offers valuable historical argu vichchhinna) . ments in support of this thesis. A Sanskrit scholar of Bombay, however, informs that silk is not men . Wbollen blankets ary ( of ten kinds) (1 ) tioned at all in the oldest vedic works and that where Itambala, (2) Kauchapaka, (3) Kalamilika, (4 ) ever mentioned is in making of cloth, wool form. Sumitika, . (5) Turag31l taIana, (6) Varnaka, (7) the basis of the fabrics. Talich6bhaka, (8) Va~ana, (9) Paristoma and (to) Samanta bhadraka. Of these, one which is The present study deals only with the weaving slippery (Pichchhila) as a wet surface, possessed of woollen blankets and shawls at three centres, i.e. fuie hair arid soft. Chitarwada, Ratiya and Bhujodi. It does not (1) Karnbala : a coorse blanket-com. give a comprehensive account of the textiles as a (2) Kuchapa1ca: (So reads the commentator) whole. It is rather difficult to present an exact is wh~ is usuaJly Vlotn by cow herds. picture of the origin and development of the crafts in absence of authentic information on this subject. (j) Kalamilika: (So reads the commentator) is' head dress. However, from certain observations it is seen that the shawls weaving with artistic designs was ( 4) A epvering put over the hustings spread introduced three decade ago. The woollen fabrics on the back of a bullock. such as blankets. shgwJs were common muck I 3'-337 ItG. India/WIS. 2 earlier in north India. It has reached its highest shi, Rampur, Jihhi, Bi!aspur, Giabong, Sirmau!, development in Kashmir, later on spread in Sindh, Bhuppur, Dalbausie, Kmnaur, Palampur, PanJI, Punjab and Rajasthan and gradually it reached Parawale. (6) Jammu and Kashmir Famous Kachchh and Saurashtra and certain areas of central Pashmina shawls are produced in the State. The craft Gujarat through Rajasthan, and Sindh. This may is in highly developed stage and practised Hearly be due to the availability of pastures on hilly slope all over the State. The main centres are Srinagar in this area which is suitable for sheep breeding. and its suburb Ananta-nag, Ladakh, Badgam Basohli, It was in 1876 that first two woollen mills were Kathua, Jammu, Udhampur districts. (7) Kama started one at Kanpur (UP) and other at Dha taka has Kolar and Chitradurga as a reputed riwal (Punjab). By 1914 the number increased centres. The craft is practised by Kunubas known to four. The woollen industryl in this presidency as Kambli Kunubas. (8) Madhya Pradesh (Bombay) is so far as native enterprise is concerned Gwalior is an oldest centre where carpets are be is conferred to the manufacture of Blankets. Car ing prepared since 1902. In (9) Maharashtra woollen blanket weaving is a recent pets, rugs, felt, and sacking weaving i~ carried on to a greater or less extent in every district origin. While the art of knoted woollen carpets has except Kanera and felt making is also equally been practised long back. Nagpur and Kamptee well distributed. Carpets are made at a few are important centres where development corpo factories inand near Ahmadabad and at one place ration of Vidharbha Maharashtra State is nmning (Bubak) in Karachi district of Sindh. Rug and a training-cum-production centres. Other known sacking are made exclusively in Sindh where centre is Godegaon of Bhandara district. There the industry exist in every district. are 8 units at Nagpur while one unit each at Godegaon of Bhandara district and Sabalpura Gradually the increase in the woollen mills Post Nandgaonpet of Amravati district. (10) has adversely affected this craft. Hand made Manipur The important centres are at Imphal, Blankets and' Shawls were much more costly and LengthaJa, Khoulrim and some tribal areas of rough in finish than the mill made products. The Chingee-Makha. (11) Nagaland Naga shawl is craftsmen have started using the fly shuttle looms most important part of the dress of local people. to increase their production. They have added Though it is woven with cotton, staple fiber and designs to make it more attractive. The designs woollen yams. Dimapur is the important centre were added during last two to three decades only. where Government has started' a training cum State level infonnafion production centre using coin looms and fly shuttle looms. (12) Punjab is next to Jammu and 1.2 Important Craft Centres Kashmir State in producing woollen blankets and So far Guiarat State is concerned the craft is shawls. Important centres are Amritsar, Ludhiana, mainly practised in Saurashtra and Kachchh area Hoshiarpur. Dhandhera Dhariwal, Dinanagar, Guru and in a few centres of Glliarat. The main im c'laspur. Jullundhar. There are about 250 small units portant centres other than the selected three centres producing Kashmiri and other type of shawls. Of are Chhava, Ranavav of .Tunae;adh district, Savar which 15 cottage industry unit are in Dhandhara kundla. Palitana, Yanda of Bhavna!.'::>r district and viI1age producing 2000 Kulu type shawls each Dholka of Ahmadabad' district. These centres are month. (13) Rajasthan comes next to Punjab located in urban area. Other imnortant rural in producing these articles. Important rentres for centres are Aniali fBhimii) Ahmadabad. Jam woollen blankets are Jaisalmer, Barmer and Bika khambhaliya-Jamna!!ar. Shiani-Surenorana!.':ar and nero Recently the craftsmen have started making the Kukma. Mankuva' of Kachchh distrkt. However, carpets as it is much more paying than woollen this craft is practised in many villages in Saurashtra blankets. (14) Sikkim Main centres are produced. and Kachchh area. A few more centres have been and Lachang where blankets. tweeds are produced. shown in the State map. so that One can have an In west Sikkim rough woollen blanket on simole idea about the conct'ntration of the craft in the area. looms are produced. (15) Tamil Nadu The The craft is practised in other States also. The import'1nt centres are north Arkot. Dharampuri, names of some of the centres where the craft is Coimbtore, Kolakudi. Salem, WaHegapet amI practised in other States are given below: Gopalasamundram. (l6~ Uttar Pradesh U.P. Khadi and Gramodyog Board has started pro (1) Andhra Pradesh The craft is mllinJy duction centre at Najibabad, (Bijnour) Mazafar oracti~ed in west Godavari. Krishna. Waran!!al, NaI pur, Mirzapur, Gopiganj (Varanasil. Jaunpur, Adi g-onda. Gunttur and Chernla district. (2) Assam labad (Gaiipur), Khajni (Gorakhpur) and Sultan Woollen blanket locally known as lasingphee is our. Moreover, the board has started units on nroduced bv weavers of Cacher district. (3) indnstrial coolJeration basis at Mathura Kharampur Bihar The crnft is nractised all over the State. (Gorakhpur) and Jhansi. (17) West B en!(al However, concentration is found in the villages the craft is mainly practised in the hills of Darieeling surroundin? the Sasaram Gaya and Obra vilIa!!cs. area. The Kalimpong Art and crafts industrial All India H:mdicraft Board has recentlv started cooperation society is one of the oldest organisation training for weaving of carpet~ at 0bra Village. (4) in the hills which ha5 played an important role in Haryana Here the craft is distributed in vil1age~ the development of the crafts in this area. all over the State. The main centres are Panipat, Ambala. Karri (Hissar) and Morni hill area. (5) Arunachal Pradesh, Along is the centre wbere Himachal Pradesh Main centres are Kulu, Sham- woollen weaving is practised. The craft is also prac tised at Manema{!!!l'a a suburb of Chandigarh, and 1 Journal of J'1<1'rl1 Art anc1111dU5try, 1901. MonirkA and Shahdra in Delhi. 3 The number of institutions engaged lU produc~ as well as in traditional woven designs and tion of woollen Khadi in each State is given below: colours items are being prepared. Moreover, the production of Asaniyas and carpets are rect~nt ~-- State No. of Institutions introduction. As the blended mill made yarn are used, modern colours are also used in pre 1. Andhra Pradesh 16 paring above items. The craftsmen are using Marina wool in addition to Deshi wool. In 2. Assam. 23 J unagadh District blankets of different variety 3. Bihar 37 and shawls are produced from Deshi wool as well as blended mill made woollen yarn including terry 4. Gujarat wool and polyester blended yarns. In Bhavnagar 5. Haryana 7 and Jamnagar, similar items are produced mainly 6. Himachal Pradesh 2 using Deshl wool while in Surendranagar district and Chitarwada in Kheda district produce traditio 7. Jammu & Kashmir 4 nal blankets, namely, Tangaliya, Charmaliya. The 8. Karnataka 10 designs of the blankets are purely traditional and have some legend about it. 9. Madhya Pradesh 18 10. Maharashtra 15 1.6 Disposal of finished products 11. Manipur 12 The details about the diiierent items produced 12. Punjab. 15 by craftsmen, the disposal of it and the profit earned by different centres and agencies engag 13. Rajasthan 27 ed in it are not available as the craft is being 14. Tamil Nadu . 44 handled mainly by individuals and private partles. Uttar Pradesh 150 Moreover, the various State/Central agellcies do 15. not have a detailed statistics about woollen 16. West Bengal 5 articles produced by the craftsmen. The above is just a brief description of some of 1.7 Marketing the centres where the craft is being practised ill Similarly, the figures regarding quantum of other States. As about 90 per cent of the handi~ sale of these articles are not available. However, craft product seems to be handled by the private from the present survey it is observed that sector and individuals, the detailed data regard~ demand withlll the State is adequately met as the ing production and sales is difficult to collect. finished product produced by these craftsmen are on the dema_nd and according to the liking of the 1.3 Corumwtity as~ociated with the craft local people. Only the raw material, i.e., woollen Mostly the weavers (Vanker) community yarn is procured from outside the State to meet the is associated with this craft. However, the places demand of the craftsmen. where the craft has developed to a greater extent providing good economic potentiality, persons 1.8 Diffcu'nl agencies engaged in the development of from other castes have also started entering in this the craft occupation. This is clearly observed in Bhujodi village where two families of Agriculture lahourers The Indian handicrafts have been distinguish~ have started practising this craft. Similar facts ed for their great aesthetic and functional quali have been observed in Savarkundla, Chhaya and ties for centuries. Soon after independenct;, for the other developed centres. revival, development and promotion of handicraft came to be pursued as a national policy. Attempts Generally each member of the family help have been mad<: towards documenting existing according to his caliber and ability. Old persons skills, conducting market surveys and introducing help in cleaning the wool spinning and winding the intermeaiate and workshop technology to support yarn. In very few exceptional cases, children below hand skill. Attempts have also been made to 14 years of age are engaged in the craft. revive classical pattern, introduce new designs for new functions. To carry out this policy effectively 1.4 Number 01 households and workers engaged in following institutions are formed. the craft by sex (for three centres) The community associated with this craft in All India Handicrafts Board was set up in the past as well as present are mainly weavers~ November, 1952, under Ministry of Commt:fce. Wanker. The data regarding the number of It was formed to advise the Government of India households associated with the craft and persons on problems of handicrafts and to suggest measures engaged in the craft in other centres of the State for improvement and development. The board was is not available. also required to study technical, marketing, finan cial, organisational, artistic and other aspects of 1.5. Handicraft objects produced by centres and handicrafts and to formulate plants on these purpost) lines. Its function also included advice and assis Kachchh district is well known for produc tance to State Governments in planning and execut tion of shawls and woollen blankets. The plain, ing schemei for the development of handicrafts. lta headquarter is at .New Delhi. During the successive five year plans, the board attempted 2 3 numerous developmental plan in the field of production, designs, marketing and export. The 3. Sanand Taluka l56ard has *ts regIOnal offices at New De1.h4 Bombay. 7 Lucknow. MadraB and Calcutta. 4. Viramgam .. 1 9th,tJt institutions such as (i) All India 5. Daskroi (;ottag8 Ind_ustriea Board. (il) Central Cottage In 6. City dustrie~ Association and its successor Central {;ottag~ Industries Corporation Private Limited, 2. Gandhinagar District 1 (iji,) l'lJ,e, Rural Marketing and Service Centre. 3. Surendranagar District 1~ (i~). l;lOfJdicrafts and. liandlooms Export Corpora" tiplll of india, were set up with its headquarters at 1. Limbdi Taluka 6; .ij_e,w Delhi. 2. Wadhwan 5 Similarly, in order to develop and promote 3. Muli S crafts in their area, the various State Govern ments and Union Territory administrations have 4. Dhrangadhra " also started agencies. In Gujarat, (i) l:Iandicraft 5. Lakhtar ~veloPlPent Corporation. (il) Handloom Develop" 6. Dasada 1lI~ Corporation. (ill) Khadi and Gramodyog J!pllid and the office of the Director of Cottage 4. Jamnagar District . 7 rnd~trh:s were set up. Their headquarters -are s,i,tuated at AhIWldabad. This was done with an 1. Jamjodhpur Taluka ~ to i,mprove the condition of the 2. Khambhaliya .. 3 weavers. The COJ;poration and Board purchase products from tile Cl"aftsmen directly or give 3. Jamnagar 3 direct orders to them. There is also All India S. Rajkot District 7 Handicrafts and Handloom Development Corpora tion stationed at New Delhi. These organisa 1. Morvi Taluka 3 tions are set up for the development of crafts 2. Rajkot 2 and to assist craftsmen in more production, market ing, training and improvement in various crafts. They 3. Wankaner .. also promote the craft by organising exhibitions. 4. Dhoraji sales-cum-display to popularise the craft which ultimately helps the craftsmen. The master 6. Bhavnagar District 10 craftsmen are given State and National awards for their outstanding work of art in various crafts. 1. Bhavnaga,r Taluka. 3 lillah Udyog Vikas Kendras are also helping them 2. Talaja " 3 in getting bank loans as well as in forming the 1 cooperative society for the craftsmen. 3. Mahuva " 4. Gadbada " These corporations try to remove the middle man by giving the direct orders to the craftsmen and 5. Savarkundla " 1 are also purchasing the finished product from them. 6. Umrala 1 The cooperative society also helps in removing the exploitation of the craftsmen by middle men. 7. Amreli District 3 They provide raw-materials and tools and ill 1. Ku~avav Vadia Taluka 2 return get the finished goods. 2. It-athi TaluM 1.9 Cooperative Societies 8.. Junagadh District 23 The number of cooperative societies formed in different places in the State is given below. 1. JunagMh Tal~a These societies are formed for cotton and 2. Mangrol " 6 woollen weavers where both type of weaving is done. 3. Porbandar .. 8 Namber of the Weavers' Cooperative Societies formed in Gujarat 4. Veraval .. 3 5. Kutiyana .. 3 No. of Coopera- Total 6. Keshod tive 7. Manavadar " Societies 9. Kachchh District 9 1. Ahmadabad District 61 1. Bhu Taluka 43 1. Dholka Taluka 2,. An\ar 8 2. Dhand)1uka 3. Mundr.a " s _--"..... 0· .~ ... + - -- _"'- ...... --_ .... ,,- ., 3 1 2 3 t "- 4. Mandvi Trrluka . I n. Vaisad District 3 S. Rapar 1 ~" V.. ~~ Tlt1l!ka 1 6. Nakhatramt " +.C~ 10. Banas Kantha District 21 3. Gandevi .t: ~. 'f;a~ Taluka 13 2. P~anpur 10 The weavers of central and South Gujarat areas mostly carry out I;{)tt~ ~'«~ only while 11. Sabar Kantl1a Distcict 8 weavers of Kachchh and Saurashtra ar~~ are weaving both wGoUen alld oottoa. ThWi, the 1.. ]idar Taluka 8 ~09perl!-tiv~ soci~ties of ~edlWa9., ~~ Kan- tha, Sabar Kantha, Mahesana. Qandhinagar, 12. Mahesana District 24 Panch Mahals, Kheda, Bharuch, Surat and 1. Mahesana Talu.ka, 4 VaJsa ~ Panch Mahala District 7 (ii) Procurement of raw material required for production, sale of the finished ploduct 1. Dohad Taluka and purchase of machinery and tools, 2. Lunawada " 3 required for it. 3. Santrampur " 2 (iii) To give the raw material on credit baae 4. Devgadh Baria " to the members. (iv) To promote the product in market. 15. Bharuch District . 1. Bharuch Taluka . Th~ limit of s~are c.apital for cooperative 2. Valia 2 SOCIety IS 20,000. ThIS capItal can be raised: 3. Jhagadia 2 (i) By shares. 4. Ankleshwar " (li) By loans. 5. Vagra 2 (iii) By deposits from members. 16. Surat District 6 (iv) By gifts. 1. Chorasi Taluka . (v) By entrance fee. 2. Mandvi Share value of Rs. 25/- or as decided by 3. Valod society a member can hold shares of 1/5 of total 4. Vyara share capital or Rs. 1,000/. 5. Mahuwa. .. Following persons can be member of societies. 6. Songadh (i) Actual worker - producer living in the village/town/city as the case may be. (li) Well wisher who is also producing the - (iii) Removed from the committee. some items. The executive committee performs the following (iii) Share holders who paid the entrance fee duties: of Re. 1/-. (i) To pass the application of the members (iv) One who has attained the age of 18 years. for loan, etc. (v) He should not be a member of other (ii) To finalise the applications for purchase of society. shares or transfer of shares. (iii) To get the accounts approved and balance The membership of the society ceaae on. sheet from auditors and Registrar Coope (i) Death of the member. rative Society. Also to get annual report approved in the general body. (ii) Resignation by member. (iv) Other administrative work of the society. (iii) Removed from the membership by the executive committee. Secretary. : (iv) When member ceases to possess the con The duties of the Secretary are: in dition laid down sub-law 7. (i) To implement the resolutions passed by A meeting of the general body is held on 30th General body. of June every year. In the meeting society report (ii) Administration and supervisory work of alongwith its balance sheet of the previous year the society. is passed and future plans of the society for next year is chalked-out. (iii) Any other work entrusted by committee Or President of the society. Additional general meeting can be called by secretary of the society or on an order from After the balance sheet is passed by the audi District Registrar Cooperatives or called by one tors, the profit earned by the society is distribut tifth of total members of the society. Notice of ed among the members of the -society as dividend the meeting is required to be given 10 days in after deducting percentage share of relevant head advance. ~-. according to the law of the Cooperative Society. Act. Executive Committee: Executive body is formed by elected members Each year one-third of the members of the who elect their president, vice-president and executive body / contmittee are got elected on rotation other executive members. Committee member basis. ceases to be member of body. (i) On his death. The details about various co-operative socie ties of the two districts of the selected centres (ii) If he continuously remains absent for four received from the district authorities are given in meetings. the statement 1.1 and 1.2. 7 J i .S' ~ \0 1 ~ ~ ~ - 0 .. -- .....VI ..-:'" <§~ § 8 8. .~ ~. ri 8...... ~ N ~.9 M ...... ~ '0 ~ '-' 0 -- ..... 8 ..2~ "'" ~ 8. 8..,.., 8 8. 8 ~ 8 ""00 "1. VI .... .,.;' .... o· .J r:I.2~'" ...... i I"i q .... 00 ~ ..; .... "'" :; .....0\ ~ I __ 8 0 0 0 ..... 0 § § 8 § § ~ g~~ .... o' 8..; 0 +> "'0 "1. aO <:5 ..; t..:' g N btl 0·- ~ .,., o. 00...... 9 ~+>o "'" N .,.. l3 0 +>--:- M q::'" .... § o~ 8 8 or> <:5 ..,.,' 8..,.., M M ..... III ~.9 QC '-' .... § 0 § t0\ 0"; ..... 8 8 8 8 8 00 ",' I -- 0\ t..:' N ... "'" c;;~ ..c :g t..:' "1. t- 0\ 0\ <"l ""00 ~ ~ N 1 0\ ~~ ~ 0 0 0 0 .;, 0 0 0 .... 0 8 o. ::I~~-- 8 8 8o' 8..; !QC "'0 <:5 ~ or>.,.., <:5 8 0\ 0._ ~ "1. .... 0\ ...... ~ .... o ..c ...... N N 0\ ~ tIlo~ M M ..... ! 0!t::~.s.~ 02l.j~'«1 ... °0 ~ Z ~ 0 '" 00 ':"' I C) ta--=- § 8 .... ~ ~.~~ ~ t- ~ .<:i P,1:l ....or> ..c ....N' ~ t:/.!!3 o M ~ 0'1 VI 0'1 ,.., 00 ..... 0'1 N 0 :g tI t- VI 1- 00 \0 1.0 \0 II- 'O..604)~ t- 1- VI III ~ . 8 ",.s.~ ...0 .~ ~ l3 '0 '" :; '":; btl o~ c.. :.a 0 OS 8«1 .S' 0 S ~ '".<:i '" "'" .S' .S' ~ i '" '"8 6h :; .<:i .<:i .<:i ::I 8 .<:i :; zr; ~ ~ .a :.a a ~ ~ i ~ ~ ~ f'-! ...'" ~ I 0 0 ~ p, ... o.~ o :' ~ ~ 6- .:, ... 0 .... ::I'" '';:: '';:: ~ 0 ~ .~ 0 § 0 ~"j 0 & '" '" 0 u ~.:i :gi ~; ~ ~ u ~ ~9 p,'_<> ~ 6 ~ 9 u 0 ~ >" ';;i~ ",0 ::Ig 0 9 '" ~<> ~u «I"j~ «I oS '2 '"<>'" . ~t:/.! ~ U ,.,.. 8 ::I ~ t:/.! ..... ~.:i '~'g '" btl Cl ~ ~.:i ~ .... :~ til ~.e ~~ 0 0 "'» ~ ~ » -'"~.:i I) ! ~.g ~ ~ ~~ i '" ~ o ~ .:.!i » i ';;i0 ~.~ 00'" '" ~.J ~3 ~'J3 ::Ig "'+>g .... E-o~ U~.:i~9 .:i ",...:I ';;it:/.! ~'" _l:JgfJ· "'0 » .- » E-o ~ ';;i& 01) o «If'-! ~.?: ;g",~",8 ]i.<:i._ ~ E-oo ...., ~.- ..s c:l -;.11 ~ .... :;.~ 3~ ::I",g 0 ~g g p,'" :fi~ .9 ]8 .<:i::z:: fI) ::I .... .a til· ... :g" ~ ~ ... zt:/.! ~t.1 ~~ ~ ..... ~tl z- ..... 0«1 J N 8~ ..; .s: ! s z~ ~ § .S' ';3' .S' :; Ii j ~ .<:i or! 1 :g ~ ~ ":0 ~ fa ~ J tJ ~ rIlz IJ) M ...... '" t- oo 0\ s 8..., 8or> ~. ~. ~.... ~. I- 00 :! ....oC ...... § .,;...... 8 1-. -r- g 11"1 .r; 00 - ~ , -00 N 00 11"1 ...,00 d.. ...... co ...... 00 9 The available details about manufacturers, candidates are selected and sponsored by either craftsmen engaged and annual production in lilla/:z Udyog Vikas Kendra or Handicrafts and districts where the craft is practised are given below: Handloom Development Corporations. The train ing is imparted either in the village or at some STATEMENT I.3 other place according to the, strength of the trainees and facilities available or at State training Details about manufacturer8, craftsmen engaged and annual pro centre at Gandhinagar. Stipend is given to the duction in districts where the craft is practised trainees during training period. Stipend is decided by the authorities according to the purpose of train Approx. Approx. Approx. ing to be given and period of training. Sl. District No. of No. of annual No. manufa- craftsmen production tlirer engaged in lakhs It has been observed during the survey that Rs. generally the craft is learned by the son from his father or other family members. Thus, the tech 2 3 4 5 niques and methods are being gifted from one generation to another generation in a traditional way. 1. Kachchh 402 1,900 25--00 2. Jamnagar 489 1,230 70-00 On oral enquiry during the field survey it was noticed that no craftsman was sponsored by the 3. Surendranagar 3,650 5,686 78--00 district development authority. for any type of 4. Junagadh 25 1,069 49-24 training from the Chitarwada Village. However, it was informed during the survey in the Ratiya 5. Kheda . 23 50 1-10 Village that one or two craftsmen were selected for training at Training Institute, Gandhinagar. In respect of Bhujodi Village a training camp was 1.11 Training-cum-Production centres organised in the village itself which was lasted for Gujarat Government has started a training about 8 to 10 months. The details about training centre for the craft practised in the State. The have been given in the Chapter III of this report. 4-337 R.O. India/ND/88 CHAPTER II CRAFTSMEN IN THEIR RURAL SETTING SECTION Il-GENERAL PARTICULARS ters Porbandar 110 kms. away from the district Generally, Gujarat State can be divided into .headquarters Ju~agadh. The nearest marketing cen~e two main geographical regions, ~z., (1) T!te is at Porbandar. The State Transport bus servIce mainland Gujarat and (2) The penlllsular Gu]a is available to the villagers throughout the year. rat. The mainland consists of the valleys of There are two wells in the village. The primary rivers Sabarmati, Mahi, Narmada, Tapti, etc. flow and secondary schools are also in the village ing from east to west towards the g~ ~f ~ambh~t. itself. New high school building is under con The peninsular Gujarat can be subdiVIded mto (1) struction on the western side of the village. The highlands. inland plains and ~oastal areas and junior college facility is availa.ble at Madhapur ( ii) Kachchh area. 'The craft IS spread over a which is 24 kms. from the vIllage. The degree few centres. in Gujarat mainland region as well as college is at Porbandar. The facility ~f electri in Saurashtra and Kachchh regions. The three city is reached the village. A parabo~c. T. V. villages, e.g., Chitarwada in Khambhat taluka of antina is fixed on the old school bUIlding for Kheda district, Ratiya in Porbandar taluka of showing the educational programme which are Juna,gadh district and Bhujodi in Bhuj taluka c:f telecasted on National and State network~ to Kach~ district are selected for the study of. thIS students. The facility of branch post office and craft. The Chitarwada village represents Gu]arat sub-Primary Health Centre is available in the mainland, Ratiya peninsular Gu)arat, i.e., Saurashtra village. The nearest telephone, telegraph and ~d Bhujodi of Kachchh regIon. Thus, these banking facilities are. availab!e ~t Madhapur three villages represent the three different geogra Village. The nearest railway statIon IS Porbandar. phical regionl! of Gujarat. The village falls under the jurisdiction of Madhapur Police Station. 2.1 Location, Amenities and Services available In ~lected l'illages The third centre is Bhujodi village which is located in Bhuj taluka of Kachchh district. The village Chitarwada is situated in It is situated at a distance of 7 kms. from Khambhat taluka at a distance of 40 kms. from Bhuj the taluka and district headquarters and 2 taluka headquarters. The village is at a distance kms.' away from the State Highway going from of 55 kms. from the district headquarters of Bhuj to Gandhidham. The approach road to Kheda. The nearest marketing centre is at Tarapur, Bhujodi is pucca tar road. The State Trans 24 kms. far from the selected village. The port bus services are running daily two times, one facility of State Transport bus service is not avail in the morning and other in the afternoon. The able upto the village. Hence, villagers or visitors nearest railway station is at Madhapur, 4 kms. have to walk either on foot or to use private away from the Village. The nearest police sta~on vehicles. However, there is regular bus servic~ is at taluka headquarters. The nearest marketmg upto Dugari and Galiyana villages, which are 2 facility is available at Bhuj. The electricity is kms. and 6 kms. away from the selected village available in the village for both domestic and respectively. The pucca road is upto Dugari and agricultural purpose. There are two wells in the Kachcha road upto the village. 'The village has village for drinking purpose. It is said that Bhuj two wells for drinking water. A water tap tank town gets water supply from Bhujodi while village is also provided at the outskirts of the village. has no water supply. The primary school is in The village has been electrified for both purposes, the village, but the nearest middle and secondary i.e., for domestic and agriculture uses. There is high school is situated at Madhapur. The nearest no primary school in the village. However, it junior college and degree college are situated at is located between Chitarwada and Pachigam Bhuj. The post office with telephone facility is villages which provides primary education to both available in the village. 'The nearest telegraph Villages. It is situated at a distance of 2 kmll. facility is available at Madhapur Village. The from Chitarwada. For secondary education, the nearest bank facility is also available at Madhapur students have to go to Khada village, situated Village. at a distance of 5 kms. For higher secondary education, one has to go either to Tarapur or The cotton and woollen weavers co-operative Khambhat. The degree college education is society has been formed by the local weavers. available at Khambhat which is 40 kms. awav and The society has provided residence-cum-workshop Petlad, 45 kms. away from the village. • The building to 26 members in the society premises milk co-operative society is also organised by with the help of subsidy and loan of Gujarat the villagers. 'The villagers get the facility of Rural Housing Development Board. The training moving post office in the village. The nearest is imparted from time to time for the selected railway station, police station, telegraph office, craft through the Office of Development Commis sioner, Handicrafts, Bombay. etc., are at TaraouT. The branch of State Bank of India is available at Dugari village which 2.2 Demographic particulars of the Villages provides banking facility to the villagers. Tbe following statement presents the village The second village Ratiya is situated in Por wise and castewise demographic particulars such bandar taluka of Junagadh district. It is at a as religion, mother tongue, number of households, distance at ~6 kms. from the taluka beadquar- population by sex for the current survey period. 10 u· --- '" 00 - ~ -In : : : : : : : : : : : J J J I 1 1 1 I ~ 11 I I I I I I I ~ I I I I ::?1 ...... ••••• t:f.2::J::>~.: • ••• ... ~ ... : ::> ~ .. . ::?1::r: 12 PLATB-I VILLAGE MAP-CHITARWADA VILLAGE CHITARWAOA TALUKA KHAMBHAT DISTRICT KHEDA ~. -tJ I c!:> "ELt [J: WATER TANK .• G PAHCHAYAT OFFICE ~ WANKAR VAS tt· . PIGEON HOUSE A TEMPLE o MILK DAIRY '- EJ POST OFFICE (NOT TO SCAlf:) : 13~ PLATB-ll VILLAGE MAP~RAnYA VILLAGE: RATIYA P P.... C .... VAT 0'''« TALUKA : PORBANDAR .I ....,,:+ OfSPftlSNIY OIST,tRICT: JUNAGADHA .. i} POST O,,'C. .8' n .. Pl.1 11:1 "050111 ~ T.V. ""'TINA FOR 5C"00\ fl' 'SUS STIQI' 5 SHOP C C"OAA _._ •• _ VILLAGe SlT£ (NOT 1'0 S<:ALl) "'\ , \ \ \ ./ .'/ 14 PLATE-III ViLLAGE MAP-BHUIGD! VILLAGE BHUJODI TALUKA BHIJJ DISTRICT KACHCHH -H-0' I (!) WH' Q WATER TANK 0 PANtHAYAl OFFIt£ ~ WAN~ARVAS e TEKPLE 8 POST OHICE El FLOUR MILL [!J CO'OPERATIVE SOCIETY • SltOP '0 SCHOOL (NOT TO SCALEt ]5 The above statement gives a basic demographic traditional occupation. It is noticed that in past, 2 picture of the three selected villages, viz., Chitarwada, households of Bhujodi village were working as agri Ratiya and Bhujodi, it is noticed that in Chitarwada cultural labourers, who have now started practising and Bhujodi villages all households belong to Hindu the weaving work of woollen blankets. ism; whereas in Ratiya village all belong to Hinduism except one household that belongs to Muslim religion. 2.3 Particulars Qf Craftsmen So far as caste/community is concerned only in Chitarwada village 6 households ha'ling population of The craftsmen engaged in this traditional handi 35 persons belong to Scheduled Tribe community. crafts in all the three selected villages are from Out of total 867 households of three villages, 231 Vankar caste of Hindu religion which has been households belong to Scheduled Caste community of treated as Scheduled Caste (SC) in Gujarat. The which 82 in Chitarwada, 66 in Raitya and 83 in total number of Vankar households in the Chitar Bhujodi village respectively mostly of Vankar com wada village is 70. Out of these 70 households, munity except 12 who belong to Bhangi caste. As 40 are residing in the old Vankarvas and rest of 30 regards the other community they are Bharwad, Garasia families in the new Vankarvas. The new Vankarvas Patel, Mer, Rabari and Koli, etc., whose traditional has come into existence on the land allotted by occupation is either agriculture, agriculture labour Government to weaker sections in early 1970. There and livestock activities. In addition to these some is only one Vankarvas in Ratiya village. All 66 artisan community of Darji, Suthar, Kumbhar are also families of Vankar reside in this Vankarvas, which residing in these villages. It is significant to note that is situated on the south-east direction in the village. there are good number of households either of Bharwad While in Bhujodi village, Vankar families are spread or Rabari in all the villages who 'lre normally consi throughout the village except Rabarivas wherein not dered the main users of this craft products. The a single family of Vankar rooides. Thus there is no Vankar Scheduled Caste resides in all the three separate Vankarvas in the Bhujodi village. The set selected villages as one of the important caste engaged tlement pattern of houses of Vankars in all the three in weaving occupation. All the three villages have villages are of linear clusters with irregular streets. been selected for the study of woollen blanket handi-' craft. It has been, however, observed that out of The economic condition of the craftsmen is so many communities residing in the villages only reported to be satisfactory, meaning thereby the craft Vankar Castes are engaged in weaving occupation. product seems to be sufficiently remunerative. Their All the persons speak Gujarati language as their economic condition is somewhat better as compared mother tongue. Looking at the number of households to other lower caste people. It is also observed that and population, Bhujodi is considered as a small type a few craftsmen particularly of Bhujodi village are of village, Chitarwada as a medium type 01 village, economically sound who also possess pucca construe- and Ratiya as a big type of village. ted building with R.C.C. roof. They get their finished product directly sold without the aid of The following statement gives the details of pre middle men. Socially it is also observed that except vailing handicraft in the selected villages along with a few crafsmen all enjoy a good social status in the number of households engaged as their tradi their caste as well as in their Village. Out of total tional and non-traditional occupation. 60 households selected in three villages only 3 house holds have reported that their social status is not recognised in the village. STATEMENT 11.2 In all the three selected villages, there are sepa Number of households engaged as traditional and non-traditional occupation in the handicrafts rate drinking water facilities for Harijans. Generally, high castes people invite the Vankar caste people on the occasion of social and religious ceremonies like No. of households marriage, birth, festival, etc. Generally, they enter Sr. Village Name of hadicraft engaged engaged easily in religious places, i.e., in temples without any No. as tradi- as non-tra barriers and their children get the admission in the tiona I oe- ditional school. The feeling of untouchability is not being eupation occupation observed in general in any of these .threy selected villages. Thus, it seems that the craftsmen of these 2 3 4 5 three villages do not suffer from any social disability except drinking water facility which are provided to Chitarwada Woollen blankets 56 them separately. 2 Ratiya 53 Mostly 6-10 sq. mtr. is available as working 3 Bhujodi 81 2 space to the craftsmen. -~---- Total 190 2 2.4 Demographic profile of the Craftsmen It is observed from the above that preparation The statement 11.3 gives the total number of of woollen blankets is main handicraft in all the households of Vankar community, household above three villages. Except two households, all the engaged in craft, number of persons engaged iq the bouseholds are engaged in the handicrafts as their craft, etc. 16 STATEMENT II.3 2 3 4 Demographic particulars of Craftmen and their average house hold size in the selected viIlages Persons. 110 128 145 Villages Average household size 5·5 6'4 7·2 Particulars Chitar- Ratiya Bhujodi wada It has been pointed out in earlier para thta only in 2 3 4 Vankar community is engaged craft in all the three villages. It is also observed that almost all 66 83 households are engaged in the craft in Bhujodi village I. Number of households 70 whereas in Chitarwada village 80 per cent of the Persons. 410 300 498 households are engaged in the handicraft, viz., S6 Average household size 5·8 4·5 6·0 out of 70 total households and in Ratiya village more than 75 per cent of the household are doing weaving II. Number of households en 56 53 83 work. The average household size in Bhujodi village gaged in the craft is higher as compared to other two villages. For Persons. 246 241 303 the craft study purpose only 20 households are Average household size 4·4 4·5 3 ·7 selected from each village. III. Number of selected house 20 20 20 The d~mographic picture showing the marital holds status of the three centres is given below. STATEMENT II.4 Population by Age-Group in relation to marital status Age Never Divorced! Village Group Married Married Widow Separated Total P M F P M F P M F P M F P M F 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Chitarwada 0-14 32 16 16 32 16 16 15-34 12 10 2 28 13 15 41 24 17 35-69 1 30 15 15 5 3 2 36 19 17 70+ 1 1 1 45 27 18 58 28 30 6 3 3 110 59 51 Ratiya 0-14 60 33 27 60 33 27 15-34 18 12 6 14 6 8 33 18 15 35 -69 29 15 14 4 4 33 15 18 70+ 2 2 1 ------~------78 45 33 45 22 23 4 4 128 67 61 B:1Ujodi . 0-14 64 37 27 64 37 27 15-34 14 6 8 31 13 18 45 19 26 35-69 28 15 13 4 4 32 15 17 70+ 3 2 1 1 4 2 2 78 43 35 62 30 32 5 5 145 73 72 The above figures indicate that the practice of of 110 in Chitarwada, 4 out of 128 in Ratiya and child marriage is not observed in all the three centres. 5 out of 145 in Bhujodi village. It is also observed that generally the incident of divorce is not noticed except a lone incident of a Literacy among craftsmen-The following state- male and female member in age-group 15-34. It is me!1t shows the literacy according to the educational also worth nothing that there are very few cases of level among the craftsmen residing in the seleced widow /wid()wer in the selected villages, viz., 6 out villages. 17 STATEMENT IU Distribution of population of selected housebolds as c1~ssifi¢ by educational level. Villages Category ------,....,.-- Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi All ------_._------M F M F M F M F 2 3 4 5 6 7 .8 9 TOTAL 59 51 67 61 63 ,82 1119 194 1 illiterate 23 45 18 45 18 47 59 137 2 Literate without educational level 1 1 3 Primary or Junior Basic 25 5 43 16 34 34 102 55 4 Middle/Secondary 7 4 4 1 15 1 5 Matriculation and higher secondary 3 1 4 8 6 Non-technical diploma or certificate not equal to degree . 3 4 .1 7 Graduate & above In all there are only 2 male literates without cates that from the three s,"lected vill.a$~.nQt,p..,sjrude educational level. In Chitarwada out of 59 males craftsmen has obtaineli the degr.ee "~t,:tmc.ate. ;...... 32 (54.2) having primary or middle school educa literacy upto primary or middle school .level is quite tional level. . The respective figures in case of impressive among males in all the J village.s..as CoIp. remaining two villages are 48 (70.1) out of 67 total pared to females. The literacy seems to have djr~t males and 38 (60.3%) out of total 63 males. It is effect on practising of the craft. This is particlllat\y also observed that the literacy among females is very observed in Bhujodi village where qraftSIpeJl ~ve low as compared to males. Only 8 males out of : tarted using superior raw materials ~d improve total 189 males have obtained the matriculate or techniques. higher secondary certificate whereas no female has secured such certificate. In Chitarwada and Bhujodi Statement given below shows the size of house villages, 4 males and a lone female also obtained non hold by age and sex of head of household ,in ' the technical diploma certificate. Above statement indi- selected centres. STATEMENT 11.6 Distribution of size of Housebolds by Age and sex of Head of ,bou~hold 'No. of households by sex of Head of house Age of Head (}f Household hold No. of hQ~sel).()lds having members M F Single 2-3 4-5 6--7 8-9 10-12 131l-,IYi above 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Cbitarwada Below 30 2 1 1 30-49 9 1 3 5 50 & above· 9 2 2 3 TOTAL 20 4 6 8 Ratiya village Below 30 3 1 2 30-A9 14 1 11 50 & above 3 1 1 TOTAL 20 2 14 2 Bhujodi village Below 30 2 1 1 30-49 11 4 3 1 2 50 & above 7 4 1 1 1 TOTAL 20 9 5 2 3 Total of 3 villages Bdow 30 7 2 2 3 30-49 34 8 19 2 2 2 50 & above 19 2 7 5 3 1 ,1 TOTAL 60 5 17 27 5 3 3 5-337 R.G. India/ND/88 18 The above data indicates that there are about In all the 3 villagt's, no single member household is 73 per cent of the households having 4 to 7 members noticed. On the: contrary there are three households (44) which are more or less equally di~tributed in ;;]1 in B:lUjodi village having more than 13 members. three selected villages. Only 5 households of which This generally indical"; th~t the people of the villages 4 are in Chitarwada village having 2 to 3 members. seem to believe itl .io· 'il f:imily system. STATEMENT II.7 Distribution of households by nature of relation of members of hea(l .J Chill i,Jl<)!d Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi Total Nature of relation of members to head ------...... -~ - --_--- - ~~~------of the Household No. of No. of No. of No. of No. of No. of No. of No. of Household members Household members Household members Household members 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 Self, spoust' 1 2 1 2 2 Self, spouse & unmarried sons & daughters 8 41 10 63 9 46 27 150 3 Self, spouse, married sons & son's wife, wi th or without unmarried sons and daughters 5 33 2 14 4 33 11 80 4 Self, spouse with or without unmarried son! daughter and widow mother/father 2 10 2 13 3 26 7 49 5 Self, unmarried and married brother, bro- ther's wife, brother's son & their wife and widow mother, son, son's wife and self and mother only . 4 24 4 24 6 Self (Male), widow mother and unmarried brother, sister 2 9 2 9 7 Self, spouse, unmarried sons, grand father or mother, married son or wife, son's chil- dren, divorced daughter . 4 29 4 29 S Self, spouse, son's son/daughter, unmarried childr.:n, married brother & their wives, m'lrried sons & their wives & children and widowed mother/father 4 40 4 40 ------TOTAL 20 110 20 128 20 145 60 383 Out of 60 selected households there is only 1 linear joint family. There are 7 households, 2 in household having self and spouse as the members Chitarwada, 2 in Ratiya and 3 in Bhujodi with mem such type of households are treated as supplemented bers self, spouse with or without unmarried son/ nuclear household. This household is in Chitarwada daughter and widow mother/father, which are called village. There are 27 household..,. 8 in Chitarwada, mpplemented sub-nuclear. The remaining 14 house 10 in Ratiya and 9 in Bhujodi vill<:ge having head/ holds can also be classified in various type of category self, spouse with unmarried children as the members, of the households. such households are called the sub-nuclear households. Distribution of housebolds classified by migration In all 11 households, 5 in Chitarwada, 2 in Ratiya statns.-The following statement presents the distri and 4 in Bhujodi village having s~lf or head, spouse, bution of households by migration status with refe married sons with spouse with or without unmarried rence to placl,; of birth 8nd reasons of migration in children. This type of households are treated as relation to head of hou~r"()ld. STATEMENT II.8 Distribution of households by migration status with reference to place of birth and reasons of migration in relatinn to head of household No. of homeholds Reaso', of migration Migration status with reference to ------place of birth of head of the house- Chitar- Ratiya Bnu- Total For Occupation Family transfer hold wada jodi Chi(ar- Rativa Bhu- TOlal Chilar- Ratiya Bhll- Total wad a - jodi wada .iodi ------2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 i'1 13 ------1. Non migrant 18 :;0 16 54 (Born in village) 2. Migrant (1) Born outside the district but within the State- District-Ahmadabad . 1 District-Surendranagar 1 District-Kachchh 4 4 4 4 ------_------TOTAL 20 20 20 60 4 5 19 The above figures reveal that out of total 60 households, one more household had migrated from selected households of three villages, 54 households Surendranagar district to the Chitarwada village due are non-migrants, viz., residents of these households to reason of family transfer. It is also observed that were born in the selected villages, whereas 5 in Ratiya village of Porbandar taluka of Junagadh households were migrants who hav~ born in other district all selected 20 households are non-migrants, districts of the State, namely, Ahmadabad and viz., born in the village itself. Kachchh. Out of the 5 migrant households, 4 mi- grated in Bhujodi village all from Kachchh district Classification of migrants by duration of stay.- The statement given below shows the distribution of and one from Ahmadabad district to Chitarwada households classified by migration status and duration village. The reported reason of their migration ill of stay in the village with reference to head of the for occupation. In addition to these 5 migrated household. STATEMENT II. 9 Distribution of households classified by migration status and duration of stay in the village with reference to head of the household. Duration of Stay in the Village Migration statu_; wilh rderence Non-Migrants Migrants 11 --20 ye:lrs 21 -+- years to place of birth of head of the ~------~------~ ------__..., --._------household Chi- Ra- Bhu- Total Chi- Ra- Bhu- Total Gli- Ra- Bhu- Talal Cui- Ra- Bhu- Total tar- tiya jodi taL- tiya jodi tar- tiya jodi tar- tiya jodi wada wada wada wada 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 1. Non-migrants (born in the village) 18 20 16 54 2. Migrants (a) Born outside village but within the district . (b) Born oltside district but within the state 2 4 6 4 5 TOTAL 18 20 16 54 2 4 6 4 5 Out of 60 selected households, 54 are non Caste (SC) in Gujarat. In Chitarwada and Ratiya migrants and 6 are migrated from outside. Out of 6 villag<:s, the traditional occupation of all 20 house migrated households, 4 households art' staying in tht' holds is woollen weaving (craft) whereas in Bhujodi village (Bhujodi) since more than ! 1 Y2ars, whereas village 0, Kachchh district, out of 20 households 2 a lone household each migrated fn'Ill Surendranagar households whose traditional occupation was agricul district and Ahmadabad distriCt to Chitarwada village tural la?our ale now engaged in woollen weaving is stayting since more than 21 years and 11 years res occupatIon. pectively in the village. Distribudon of Workers by Occupational Diver sity.,-,Th,? StatqTI,ent-ILlO shows the distribution of Classification of Househulds lJ.v 'fraditimwl Hccupa hous:,holds classified by number of workers and by tion.-All the 60 selected households belong to Vankar (1~cun.qlion:11 diversity, i.e., different members having community of Hindu religion treated as Scheduled JliIch nt o ... l,;upation. STATEMENf fL LJ 2 3 4 5 Occupational Di,ersity (2) Occupation-l Head 3 Service Name of Descrip,ion of occu- No. of No. of Re- of Household) village pation diver~ity house- workers marks Occupation-3 (Son). holds (3) Occupation-I Head Agri. ._------of Household)OcctJ- labour 2 4 5 pation-6 (Sister). --~--- TO'al 20 74 Chitarwada (1) No occupation; i 2J 74 diversi ly. ------_. ------60 (2) Occupation-l (He:;d TOTAL (1) No occupational 219 Cfc:1- diversity. of Household) & ..:ller) Occupat ion-3 (Son) (2) OG'~!lpclt!on-l (Head 4 of Household) Oc- (3) Occupation-l (Head I Tea- cupation-3 (Son). of Household) OCCil- cher) pation-5 (Son's wife) (3) Occu:ution-l (Head 20 7(, of Household) Oc- Total cupacion-5 (Son's wife). Ratiya . (1) No occupational 20 75 div..:rsi iy. (4) Occupation-l (Head of Household) Oc- To~al 20 15 cupation-6 (Sister). ------Bhujodi . (l) No occupational 20 70 TOTAL 60 225 diversity. --_-_"------20 The' above data indicates that out of 225 workers So far as diversity of occupational is concerned r~~~ing. in tht 60 selected households of 3 villages, nobody has reported about the diversity in Ratiya 2+9 workers'do not have diversity of occupation, viz., aJt are engaged in woollen weaving work. Whereas village. Out of 6 such persons, 4 are in Bhujodi'village 6 workers reported to be engaged in service and 1 person working as agricultural labour. and 2 in Chitarwada village. STATEMENT II. 11 I{ouseholds classified by Sex, broad age-group and subsidiary occupation in relation to Head of household No. of house- holds No. of households having subsidiary occupation Name of Village Age- Total having group House- no sub- Occupa- Occupa- Occupa- Occupa- Occupa- holds sidiary tion tion tion tion tion occupa- 1 2 3 4 5 tion 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 __.. _--- Chitarwada 0-14 15-34 4 1 2 1 (Agriculture (Business) labours) 35-59 13 7 6 -(Agriculture labours) 60+ 3 2 1 (Agriculture labours) ------Total 20 10 9 0-14 15 -34 5 1 4 (Agriculture labours) 35 -59 15 8 6 (Agriculture (Business) labours) 60+ Total------20 9 10 ----- .------~-~------BhqJedi 0-14 15 -34 5 5 35 -59 14 10 2 1 (cotton weaving) (Agriculture) 60+ 1 1 ------Total 20 16 2 - - - ...... ------orAL 0-14 15 -34 14 7 6 (AgrIculture (Business) labours) 35-59 42 25 2 12 1 (Cotton (Agricul (Agriculture (Business) (Weaving Weaving) (ure) labours) woo lion 60 : 4 3 I (AgrlCul ture labours) ------TOTAL 60 35 2 19 2 ------.. --- In all the three villages there i.s not a single vity and 1 household each engaged in woollen weaving household having female as head of household and and cotton weaving respectively. hence the column of sex is not shown in the state ment. The datil further indicate that out of total The village-wise data also reveal that out of total 60 selected households more than half of the house 35 households having nO subsidiary occupation, 16 are holds (35) do not have any subsidiary occupation. in Bhujodi, 10 4t Chitarwada and 9 in Ratiya village. In all 25 households have different subsidiary occu Out of tot~l 25 households having some subsidiary pation of which maximum number of households ~ccupation the highest number with 11 households are (19) are engaged in subsidiary occupation viz., agri in Ratiya village next comes Chitarwada with 10 house culture labour, 2 each in business and agriculture acti- holds and only 4 in Bhujodi village. STATEMENT II; 12 Distribution of Workers and Non~Workers in thl! selected Village Age Total Population Workers Non - workers __---o _ ___., ___ , ______-- Name of village group --___,----___,-~__,-- ~------P M F P M F P M F 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Chitarwada 0-14 32 16 16 3 3 29 J6 13 15 -34 41 24 17 38 21 17 3 3 35-59 32 16 16 3.i, 16 16 5 3 2 3 3 2 2 _ 60+-_. ______.- _ .. __ ---- ______.. __ .L- ______~ ______TOTAL 110 59 51 76 40 36 34 19 15 -~------".- - .... _-_- --- Ratiya 0-14 60 33 27 11 5 6 49 28 21 15 -34 32 17 15 30 16 14 2 1 35 -59 31 16 15 31 16 15 60+ 5 4 3 3 2 ------_ __...._ ,.._ ...... -- - -.~------~------__..~- ...... ----~------TOTAL 128 67 61 75 37 38 53 30 23 Bhujodi 0-14 64 27 37 63 26 37 15-34 45 19 26 41 17 24 4 2 2 35-59 26 14 12 26 14 12 10 3 7 6 2 4 4 - _60+___..---- ._------3 TOTAL 145 63 82 74 34 40 71 29 42 -~------._ ------TOTAL 0-14 156 76 80 16 6 9 141 70 71 15-34 118 60 58 109 54 55 9 6 3 35-59 89 46 43 89 46 43 60 : 20 7 13 12 5 7 8 2 6 -~~ ~------_<----0_"'--0_-",--- TOTAL 383 189 194 225 111 114 158 78 80 Out of to:al 383 persons counted under the sur 69.1 are found in Chitarwada village, as against vey of 3 cdectcd villages, 225 (58.7%) are workers the lowest of 51.0 percent in Bhujodi village. The and 158 (.:} J .3 %) are non-workers. The maximum respective percentage for Ratiya village is 58.6. number of workers are observed between age 15 and It is also noticed that out of total 15 non-workers 59 years of which in age-group 35-59 years all persons under age 0-14 years the highest number with 11 including males and females are counted as workers. person:; arc found in Ratiya Village. The data further reveals that even under age-group 0-14 years 15 persons, 6 males and 9 females are Literacy among workers and non-workers counted as workers meaning thereby some children The Statement 1£.13 gives data regarding the details seem to be contributing in weaving work. of literacy without and with some education level since details of literacy figures including Some edu~ The village-wise distribution of workers further cational level have already been discussed in earlier reveals that the highest percentage of workers with paras same has not been repeated in the statement. 22 STATEMENT II.l3 Number of illiterates and literates among workers and non-workers by sex in the selected village --~----,--- ~---.- --_- -,------_------~------_ Population Workers Non-workers . -_. __ __ ._--_- - ~ - .- Educational P M F P M F P M F Name of village level -----_--- 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Chitarwada Illiterates 68 23 45 48 16 32 20 7 13 Literates with all education level 42 36 6 28 24 4 14 12 2 ' ~ ----~- _- - - - _'-_- .--~--- TOTAL 110 59 51 76 40 36 34 19 15 --_ ------.- ..... ------_.... -- ..... _------_------Ratiya Illiterates 63 18 45 42 7 35 21 11 10 Literates with all education kvel 65 49 16 33 30 3 32 19 13 - - - .. ------.- --TOTAL 128 67 61 75 37 38 53 30 23 ------_- - - -- ... ------_------Bhujodi . Illi terates 66 18 48 36 6 30 30 12 18 Literates with all education level 79 4S 34 38 28 10 41 17 24 . .. :- _, ~------TOTAL 145 (,3 82 74 34 40 71 29 42 ------~------Total of 3 villages . Illi terates 197 S9 138 126 29 97 71 30 14 Li terates including all levels 186 130 56 99 82 17 87 48 39 -... - -_ - . ------...... -- TOTAL 383 189 194 225 III 114 158 78 80 The above data reveal that out of total 225 of 37 male workers). The respective figure for workers 44 per cent are literates (99) including those Chitarwada village is 61,1 per cent. The percentage who have passed some educational level, whereas of literates among female workers varies from 8 % about three-fourth of the total male workers are in Ratiya village to 25 per cent in Bhujodi village. literates, viz. 82 out of 111 workers. The percent The literacy among non-workers is more than 30 ages of literates among female workers is only 15 per cent both for males and females in all the three per cent. The literate among male non-workers is villages except that in Chitarwada village it is only about 62 per cent and the respective percentage for 13.3 per cent in respect of females. females is about 50 per cent. The village-wise data further reveal that the Workers classified by kaditional and present highest percentage of 82.3 per cent is found in Bhu occupation-The Statement-II .14 shows the detail jodi village (28 out of 34 male workers) closely fol ed distribution of workers classified by traditional and lowed by Ratiya village with 81.1 per cent (30 out present occupation by sex. STATEMENT II.14 Distribution of workers classified by traditional and present occupation by sex Present Occupation with name Name of village Traditio:1ul Occupation Sex Total ------_ workers Same Occupat!on Occupation Occupation - 1 Servtce - 2 Woollen- 3Agricul Weaving turallabour 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Chitarwada 1. Woollen Weaving M 40 39 F 34 33 2. Service M F 2 2 ------23 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Ratiya 1. Woollen weaving M 37 37 F 33 33 2. Masoning work M F 3 3 3. Cotton weaving M F 4. Contractor M F 1 Bhujodi 1 Woollen weaving M 31 29 2 F 29 27 2 2 Agricultural M F 2 2 3 Shoe making M F 2 2 4 Agricultural labour M 3 2 F 4 1 3 5 Cotton weaving M F 6 Service M F 7 Labour in salt packing M F TOTAL 1 Woollen weaving M 108 105 3 F 96 93 2 2 Service M F 3 3 3 Masoning work M F 3 3 4 Cotton weaving M F 2 2 5 Contractor M F 6 Agriculture M F 2 2 7 Shoe making M F 2 2 8 Agricultural labour M 3 2 F 4 3 9 Labour in salt packing M F ------" TOTAL M 111 106 3 2 F 114 94 1 17 2 T 225 200 4 19 2 24 From the above data, it is observed that out Village wise data further indicates that the of total 108 male and 96 female workers whose change from the traditional occupation of woollen traditional occupation was woollen weaving most of them continued the same occupation at present also. v'eavin~ to other occupation is observed in Chitar Only 3 males and 1 female changed their occupa wada and Bhujodi villages, whereas the changes from tion as service and 2 females started doing the work other trditional occupations to woollen weaving are of agricultural labour. In contrast. out of 3 male observed in all the three selected villages, viz., 2 workers and 4 female wc\ers ,..-hose traditional oc females in Chitarwada, 5 females in Ratiya and 10 cupation was agricultural labour 2 males and 3 fe females have changed their occupation from agricul females and 2 males in Bhujodi village. ture labour to woollen weaving. There are 17 fe male workers whose parental occupation was different, namely, service, masoning work, shoe making, cot Further all workers having present occupation have ton weaving, etc. have started doing woollen weaving neither reported any change in their occupation nor work. any seasonal occupation. STATEMENT II.15 Distribution of workers by main activity and subsidiary occnpation Name of Sex Total No.ofwor- Number whose main Occupation is vilhge workers kershaving ______M'Ioo _------subsidiary Occupation 1 having woollen weaving Occupation 2 Occupation 3 occupation having having service agriculture ------___.,~-- Subsidiary Subsidiary Subsidiary Sub;idiary Subsidiary Subsidiary occupation occupation occupation occupation Occupation occupation agriculture business cotlon agricuitur.) woollen woollen labour retail shop weaving weaving weaving 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 - ~------~--_ Chitarwada M 40 28 27 F 36 17 16 Ratiya M 37 17 16 F 38 12 12 Bhujodi M 34 7 3 2 F 40 9 6 2 .. --~-. ~-~----. -- ~~--.-- -- - _,,_ - - _. ------TOTAL P 225 90 71 3 2 9 2 3 M 111 52 43 2 3 2 F 114 38 28 6 2 The above data reveals that out of total 225 similar position is observed in case of female workers. workers 40 per cent of them are doing some subsi There arc 5 workers, 3 males and 2 females having diary occupation. The respective percentage for service or agric:uiturai labourers as main occupation male and female workers are 46.8 per cent ani are engaged in subsidiary occupation of woollen weav 33.3 per cent. Tt is also seen that the maximum i 19. A!l 5 are in Bhujodi village. number of such male workers are engaged as agricul tural labour~rs (82.7 per cent), 2 in business, 1 in Distrib.ution of non-workers by activities-The cotton wcavlIl.g and 3 i.n agricultural activity having deta.ils of distribution of non-workers by sex, age wooDen weavmg as mam occupathion. More or less and type of activity are presented in statement II.16. 25 STATEMENT II-16 Distribution of non.workers by Sex and age Category of Non-WOlkers Name of Age Total Non-Workers village group Infant Full time student Household workers Dependent Retired T M F M F M F M F M F M F 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Chitarwada 0--14 29 16 13 4 4 9 3 7 15-3') 3 3 3 40-59 60 i- 2 2 2 TOTAL 34 19 15 4 4 12 3 9 Ratiya 0-14 49 28 21 18 13 9 6 15 -39 2 1 40-59 60+ 2 1 1 TOTAL 53 30 23 19 14 9 6 ------~ ------.------~ ...... ------_._. __ ...... - .... --- Bhujodi 0-14 63 26 37 4 2 14 23 8 11 15-39 4 2 2 2 1 40-59 60+ 4 3 3 ------~------TOTAL 71 29 42 4 2 16 23 2 9 15 TOTAL 0-14 141 70 71 9 7 41 37 3 20 24 15-39 9 6 3 6 40-59 60 '- 8 2 6 5 ------GRAND 158 78 80 9 7 47 38 4 21 30 1 1 TOTAL The above data reveal that out of total non the same due to various reasons. In Ratiya village workers 53.8 per cent are full-time students, 32.3 out of total 66 households, 53 are still engaged in per cent dependents and only 10.1 per cent are in the craft and 13 households discontinued the prac fants, whereas only 2.5 per cent are engaged in tising of craft. In contrast in Bhujodi village out household work and 1.3 per cent persons are retir of total 83 households not a single household has ed. left the work of this handicraft. The di~tribution of non-workers in villages fur- It is decided that at least 5 such households ther shows that the highest percentage of full-time from each village were to be selected for filling up students with 62.3 per cent are found in Ratiya the schedule relating to demographic profile of such village as against the lowest of 38.2 per cent in households but in both Chitarwada and Ratiya vil- Chitarwada village. It is 54.9 per cent in Bhujodi lages only 3 such households could be contacted Village. The percentages of dependents are more or and surveyed siner? rest of the households had tem- less same which vary from 28.3 per cent in Ratiya po;·arily left the village in search of livelihood. Such to 35.9 per cent in Chitarwada. households could not be traced out by the supervisors during the entire period of survey. In this regard Demographic profile of the households who dis- 1~H~ villa~e leaders were contacted and they also con- continued the work of practising craft--lt has a1- firmed the temporary migration of such households. ready been mentioned in the earlier paras that in Chitarwada village out of the total 70 households . -~-'-" The statement given hereunder shows the de- ?f Vankar community, 56 households were engaged' 1~\~"''O(, workers and non-workers of the remaining 6 lUto traditional crafts work. whereas 14 have left sel~.~sf' households. 6-337 R.G. India/ND/88 26 STATEMENT II.17 Distribution of workers and non·workers in tbe selected householdS who left the craft Name of village Commuility Age Total population Workers Non·workers group ---~-~-- - - -~------~ P M F P M F P M F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Chitarwada Vankar. 0-14 2 2 J5-34 3 2 3 1 2 35-59 2 1 2 1 60+ TOTAL 7 3 4 5 2 3 2 ----_..... ------_..,~--- ...... _._------Ratiya Harijan Vankar 0-14 3 3 2 2 1 15-34 4 2 2 4 2 2 35 -59 5 2 3 5 2 3 60+ 1 1 1 TOTAL 13 5 8 12 5 7 '-~~-- - .------____.,-- _- - --..-,_ .-~--'---"~-~----___" - ~ -" --- ~ - - --'~--~-- - - - ~ ------.-. ..-"~---- TOTAL 5 1 ,I 2 2 3 7 3 4 7 3 4 35 -59 7 3 4 7 3 4 60+ 1 ,...____,....._------TOTAL 20 8 12 17 7 10 3 2 In all there arc 20 persons, 8 males and 12 due to 'death of her husband etc.'. Similarly the females left the work of woollen weaving. Of these worl;ers from Ratiya village have reported the 17 ar~ workers and 3 are non-workers. The majority various reasons as (i) financial difficulty in purchase workers ()re in the age-group 15-59 years of which uf raw materials, (ii) sudden death of the son who <) workers are in Ratiya villa£e and 5 in Chitarwada w:!s engaged in the craft, and (iii) because of old vIi.age.'II - ag';, etc. It is also noticed that out of total 6 house holds who left the craft, 2 households reported hav It was also observed that all workers are illite ing no members with necessary skill to practice the rate except 1 having passed the nliddle school. . It cr:.ift, 3 ilOuscholds reported that they are consider was fUrlher 0bserved that if' C)l;:arwada village, out ing to take up the craft as an occupation since they of 5 work{-'r~" 2 males and 3 females whose tradition llave skill to do the same. al occupation was woo]Jen weaving and all 5 workers are now do:ng the work of agricultural labour. Similarly, il) Ratiya village out of 12 workers, 10 2.5 History of growth and development of the emU ',vorker~ Gi'e ~ngaged in activity of agricultural labour wherea~ 2 in (~griculture. The craftsman Rudhabhai Karsan, aged 60 of Chitarw~da village has narrated f'e story about the Distribution of workers and i'casaus of lea".ing origin of the craft as we]] as their caste, v!hicb he the occupation-As mentioned aboYt: that all the 5 had heard from their caste B~,rot-mQn who keeps workers in Chitarwada villafle and 12 workers in the hereditary records of the caste an~ individuals, Ratiya village were previously- engaged in the woollen weaving work and have now left the occupation due There waS a joint family of three married bro to various reasons. In Chitarwada th.:re are 5 thers of Bharwad caste, They were engaged in the workers, 2 males and 3 females. One male worker livestock activity. Once upon a time :1 dead body of reported that he has left the craft because 'he did a neider was found in their courtyard. According to not learn it.' One male and female reported that custom the dead body of an animal was to be drag 'due to separation from household they could 110t ged away by th~ low caste untouchables, As all male purchase the raw materials and tools for the craft'. members were: awa~ in the fields except the younger One female also reported that she has to give up brother and the WIves of the brothers. It was a 27 problem as to who will drag out the dead heifer. In the beginning these craftsmen were doing The elder brothers' wives found out a solution and cotton weaving only, but subsequently they shifted to persuaded the younger brother to throwaway the woollen weaving. As this is an old ttaditional occupa dead body. First the younger brother objected be tion it is not possible to find out who initially started cause if he touches the dead body he would be thl::_own this craft. However, it is said that the craft was out from his caste. But he was told as everybody originated f~om Saurashtra and Kachchh region in is away so nobody will be able to know it. More the State about 200 years ago. The craft was started over, he can get himself purified by taking a bath. in Chitarwada village about 150 years ago. Gradual After some hesitation he dragged the dead body out ly, designs were introduced in the weaving process. of the courtyard. When the elder brothers returned As tIle craft grew the intricated designs and more home their wives revealed this fact to them. The wlours were added. elder broth;;rs got wild on hearing the story and forc ed the younger brother to leave house and threw him The entire craftsmen community of Chitarwada out of caste. The younger brother pleaded that he village are working in purely traditional way, the yam had purified himselt by taking bath. But he could is spun by hand from the raw wool which is brought not escape the fraudulent trap of the wives of the from nearby places or from Surendranagar and adja elder brothers. He was completely broken. He ex cent area. The entire process is carried out by hand piained that if you consider me untouchable my life using traditional method and techniques. The designs will be ruined. After a prolonged discussion the elder are traditional and colours used by them are also brothers decided that the younger brother should not primary one. This shows that there is still a deep practise livestock activity but should weave cloth for impact of traditional practice in this craft in Chitar elder brothers who will purchase it exclusively from wada Village. him. Thus from that day elder brothers were known as "motabhai" for whom the people were weaving The old craftsman Shri Punja Kachara of Ratiya cloth. village has narrated the story which their Barot (Re ligious priest) has told him. According to one Barot The younger brother accepted the verdict of the two families of Rathod Vankar migrated from Ladava elder brothers but asked as to how they will be able village of Okhamandal taluka of J amnagar district to recognise his descendent as other communities are came to Ratiya village of Porbandar taluka of Juna also weaving cloth. Thereupon elder brothers re gadh district, one family moved towards Mangla plied whenever you come to give us the cloth you village. Other Barot has reported that about 150 should keep the stick locally known as "Dang" on years ago two families have migrated to Mangla vil the floor-shaiya. Thus, we will be able to recognise lage from Ladava village in Okhamandal taluka of you. Henceforth, the weavers who produce cloth Jamnagar district and then moved to Ratiya village. cxclusively for Bharwad come to be known as Dang shaiya which in due course was deviated to 'Danga Though there is a slight difference in the two sia', who till today weave cloth for Bharwads. versions, it is quite possible that the Rathod Vankar of Ratiya originally came from Ladava village of OkhamalJdal taluka of Jamnagar district. It is said The second version says that some time ago a that the Vankars of Ratiya are the descendents of a Bharwad youth was in love with a Vankar lady and family of a Rajput male and low caste female, and had started family life with her. As the Vankar caste so they are known as Rathod Vankars. h'as treated as untouchables, the Bharwad community threw him out of their caste. This family was not - The present households are the descendents of accepted as either Bharwad caste or Vankar caste. the two families who had migrated from Ladava vil Thus, they were known as separate caste which was lage. In the beginning these craftsmen were weaving .lIso treated as untouchable by Bharwad caste. So at cotton cloth. Subsequently they have started woollen Jast they started staying with Wankar caste from whom weaving. Initially they were producing plain blankets they learn the art of wcaving and in due course turn :lad shawls. The colour and! designs were added by cd their occupation. late Kachra Deva, who was master cratsman. He had learned it from either Savarkundla or some other \Vh:.ltevcr may b..: the reason for treating this place. These designs were gradually adopted by other c~sk ~:, U,l,vuchable out it is clearly evident that their craftsmen of Ratiya also. Suri Kachra Deva was ,; "~ss, :: )p.::~mli1ee and behaviour resembles that of STATEMENT If.IS Shree Bhujodi Cotton and Woollen Weaving Co-operative Society Ltd .• Re!~. N0. 30 date 25-3-54 1980-81 1981-82 1982-83 1981-84 1984-85 2 3 4 :; Share Capital. 12,000 '00 18,000 ·00 39,000 '0') 41,310 ·00 44,610 ·00 2 Reserve Fund 24,986 ·00 43,000 ·00 55,000 '00 63,600 ·00 79,000 ·00 3 No. of Members 31 45 46 53 60 4 Workers Members -----20 30 31 35 40 29 2 3 4 5 5 Building Fund/Other Fund 3,400 '00 1,30,000 ·00 1,45,000 ·00 1,47,000 ·00 6 Purchase of Yarn/Raw material 1,62,000 ·00 1,76,000 '00 2,16,000 ·00 1,56,000 ·00 3,16,000 ·00 7 Production 2,60,000 ·00 3,07,000 '00 4,20,000 ·00 3,24,000 ·00 5,50,000 ·00 8 Weaving Labour charges paid 51,000 ·00 59,000 ·00 91,000 ·00 70,000 ·00 1,14,000 ·00 9 Sales of finished product . 2,62,O()0 ·00 2,74,000 ·00 3,41,000 ·00 4,79,000 ·00 4,16,000 ·00 10 Profit 19,000 '00 15,000 ·00 15,000 ·00 19,000 ·00 20,000 ·00 11 Audit class of the Society* A A A A A 12 Loan/Grant received from Government (i) Share Capital . 6,000 '00 15,000 ·00 (ii) Loan on share capital 2,000 '00 (iii) Tools and implements Loan/Grant 9,000 '00 12,000 ·00 (iv) Furniture and fixture 10,000'00 (v) Godown subsidy 41,350 ·00 (vi) Sales Depot. 5,000 ·00 D.P.B. (vii) Work shed 45,000 '00 15,820 ·00 (OPB) (OPB) (viii) Management grant . 12,853 ·00 2,400 ·00 4,800 ·00 (ix) Fluctuation in Rate . 3,400 ·00 4,500 'Ou 4,300 ·00 2,735 ·00 (x) Members work shop cum resident 2,08,000 ·00 D.C.!' (xi) Rebate given to Consume . 16,000 ·00 14,000 ·00 10,000 ·00 48,000 ·00 40,400 ·00 (xii) Rebate received from Govt. to Society 15,000 ·00 15,000 ·00 10,000 '00 33,400 ·00 8,300 '00 (xiii) Interest rebate 2,600 ·00 4,300 ·00 4,600 ·00 783 '00 (ix) Cost Loan (from Bank) . . 1,00,000 ·00 1,35,000 ·00 1,35,000 ·00 1,76,000'00 1,76,000 ·00 OPB -District Planing Board. Seciedes are given grades according to their administration anJ DCC-DIstrict Collage Industry. functional abilities accordingly this socie1y h[:s been awarded to grade 'A'. Bhujodi village has also good urban linkage. Handicraft Development Board' and Gujarat State The various types of services are available to the Industries Co-operative Federations, constructing craftsmen of Bhujodi. There are 5 households in about 15 to 20 workshop-cum-residence for their the village who performed all the entrepreneurial members on loan basis, provided by 'Rural Housing functions and undertake production risks. They Development Corporation'. selling the different pro also provide raw materials about 20 households on ducts at the society sales shop in the village, assessing job work account in the village. Even these crafts the demand of customers, their liking on designs and men provide work to the weavers of adjoining products, sanctioning the interest free loan· for pur villages. The weavers formed a co-operative society chase of implements and tools, etc. on 24th March 1954, with the help of 11 members with a share capital of Rs. 100. At the time of In addition to above services, the training survey, the society is known as Bhujodi cotton and classes are frequently conducted either in Bhujodi Wool Hand Weaving having 60 members from the or nearby Bhujodi village with the assistance village, with a share capital of Rs. 44,260.00 out of of the Director (Western Region), Office of this Rs. 23 260.00 is members' contribution while the Development Commissioner, Handicrafts, rest of Rs. 21,000.00 is State Government contribu Bombay. Recently the training class was con tion. 44 households work for co-operative society on ducted at Bhujodi for the period from 15-5-85 to labour charge basis, 8 households work on co-opera 15-1-86. The number of trainees were 10. The train. tive society looms, which are installed within th~ ing was imparted on the subject 'Designs on weaving' society premises. The so~iety is perf.orming the di~e by the master craftsman Shri Parbat Kheta, who had rent types of functions, VIZ., purchasmg raw matcnals passed qualifying training course conducted by from different centres and supplying it to its members, Director of Cottage Industries, Government of collecting the finished products and pay the labour Gujarat. There is no separate accommodation charges at the time of collecting processed goods, facilny for training, but the training was imparted at procuring the purchase orders of the different their houses. The stipt!nd of Rs. 100 per month was products from 'Gujarat State Handloom Weavers and given to each traine". CHAPTER III PROCESS OF LEARNING SECTION III-PROCESS OF LEARNING the craft from early age from their parents or family members, such as uncle, maternal uncle, mother-in 3.1 The weaving of woollen blanket is a law, father, as the case may be. Generally after traditional craft which is practised by these the age of 15 years one becomes a full time worker. people for the last 4 to 5 generations. The techni ques and methods involved in this craft are passed In Chitarwada this craft is practised in purely on by one generation to another. It is observed that traditional way from beginning to end.. The techni child of bout 10 years of age starts doing some work ques, process and tools used in the craft are also or starts helping the elders in their work involvin~ pure1y traditional ones. They learn the craft from himself in the various processes. They start learning their family members. STATEMENT III'1 Details regarding source of training received by the craftsmen in Chitarwada village Relation with head of Training received from household Total Father Uncle Husband Husband's Brother brother 2 3 4 5 6 7 20 Self 18 2 16 2 Wife 5 11 15 3 SOll 15 2 4 Brother 1 8 5 Sons, wife 2 6 2 6 Daughter 2 7 Father Other male members 3 1 Brother's son 2 Otlter female members 3 Mother 2 Sister 2 3 Brother's Son's wife 2 4 Brother's wife 1 2 5 Brother's daugher 2 -----~-~ -~--...... - 74 TOTAL 49 3 20 The data given in the above statement reveal father and 2 from uncle. It is also seen that all 15 that out of 74 persons engaged in the craft, 4Y sons are trained by father. Thus it is evident that persons received required training from their father, the majority of the craftsmen received training from next in order comes 20 who are trained by their father in a traditional way. husbands mainly airer the marriage. A lone brother received training from his brother. In Ratiya village also the craftsmen foll~w all techniques in traditional methods after receipt of necessary training from their relatives. The details of It is also observed that out of 10 heads of training received by the craftsmen of Ratiya village household (self), 18 received training frOID their are given in the Statement III.2. 30 31 STATEMENT 111·2 Details of tl".lining received by the craftsmen of Ratiya Village ______Training received--1 ______from Relationship with Total head of household Father Mother Uncle Brother Husband Husband's Mother- brother in-law 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 Self 19 20 2 Wife. 7 9 18 3 Son 15 15 4 Son's wife. 2 3 5 Brother 2 2 6 Daughter 7 4 11 Other males Other females Mother 3 5 Sister TOTAL 51 5 1 14 1 3 75 The position regarding the receipt of _training by improvement in the practice of the craft. They have the craftsmen in Ratiya village is also more or less started using ready made mill woollen yam and same like Chitarwada village. Out of total 75 crafts polyster blended yarn and specially Marina woollen men, majority of them (51) received training from yam. Secondly they have started using the:fly their father, 14 female members received training shuttle looms and hav~ improved upon their designs. from their husbands whereas 4 daughters and 1 wife Thus the craftsmen of Bhujodi have already put their are trained by mother. Out of total 20 heads of name on the map of handicrafts. household (self) 19 received training from father and only 1 was trained by his uncle. Though the craftsmen of Bhujodi practised this The details regarding the process of learning is given craft in a traditional way, they have adopted certain in Statement-HI.3 below. STATEMENT II1·3 D~tails of training received by the craftsmen of Bhujodi Village Relation with head of Received training from hous~hold Total Father Mother Uncle Son Husband Father's father 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Self 18 2 20 2 Wife 4 2 2 12 20 3 Son 9 2 11 4 Brother 1 5 Son's wife () 7 6 Daughter 8 8 7 Father 1 Oth?f male mel1lbl rs Son's son Other female members 1 Mother 3 2 Brother's wife ------~------.------TOTAL 44 2 2 4 21 73 32 From the above statement it can be seen that though namely, (i) Carding, (li) Spinning of wool, (iii) the craftsmen in Bhujodi village did adopt the Winding, (iv) Dyeing, (v) Sizing, (iv) Brushing of improved methods, majority of them too received threads, (vii) 1Ieing the warp, (viii) Weaving and training in a traditional way from their relatives, (ix) Stitching of threads, etc. for which necessary which is evident from the fact that out of 73 persons training seems to be required. working as craftsmen, 44 received training from their father, 2 each from mother and uncle respective It is also observed that the main item of work ly. Whereas 21 females are trained by their husbands. It is interesting to note that 4 persom. of craft is the weaving, wherein mostly male members received training from their son which is not observed are engaged. Whereas in other processes in addition in other two VIllages. This is because of the fact to females the children are also helping. The that son was already doing the crafts work and other members including head of household entered in this following statements give the number of persons en· business later on. gaged in the three main processes and necessary The craftsmen classified by nature of 'Work~ training received by them from the different members There are various processes of craft before weaving, of the household. STATEMENT III '4(a) Sliving & Spinning No. of No. of persons engaged by nature of work performed in work-l (Spinning) ReJatioll,))ip with penons where the relation in col 2 received training from the h~ld engagei in the Father Mother Uncle Brother Husband Other craft relations 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Chitarwada Self 20 15 2 Wife 16 6 9 Son 15 10 Brother 2 1 Son's wife 8 2 6 Others 13 7 3 ------._.__-;------_.._- TOTAL 74 41 2 18_ Ratiya Self 20 Wife 18 Son 15 ~-----~~------NIL Brother 2 Son's wife 3 Others. 17 TOTAL 75 ---' ___ ----1 ___-----. ____-1~ ______,- ______~ _____,--- ____, ______~ ___ Bhujodi Self 20 Wife 20 Son II -----~------NIL ------__ Brother . Son's wife 7 Others . 14 --__,------...... ------~------_------~---...... ,------TOTAL 73 ---~------.------. ----.- . ------.... ------~-.------~___.._..----.------..... ------~---- -_- - TOTAL Self 60 15 2 Wife S4 (, 9 Son 41 lO Brother 5 Son's wife 18 2 6 Other~ . 44 7 3 ___. ______...... ______.... __ ....___.. ____ ~~ ______~ __ ...... ___ .__ .______, ___ ._____ ~_------0------TOTAL 222 41 18 33 STATEMENI' m '4(b) Warp making No. of No. of persons engaged by nature of work performed in work-2 (Warp Relationship with making) where the relation in Col. 2 received training from Village persons ---.. ____----. ______~~_~ ______i ______~_ the head engaged in the Father Mother Uncle Brother Husband Other craft [relations 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Chitarwada Self 20 18 2 Wife 16 5 9 Son 15 11 Brother 2 Son's wife 8 3 Others 13 4 ------____._.--~~-~ 'tOTAL 74 38 3 13 ------_.,------..,...... -~------ llatiya Self 20 19 Wife 18 7 9 Son 15 11 Brother 2 2 Son's wife 3 2 Others. 17 7 3 3 ------TOTAL 75 46 4 14 3 ~---~ Bhujodi Self 20 14 '2 Wife 20 4 2 2 12 Son 11 6 2 Brother 1 Son's wife 7 1 6 Others. 14 11 2 ------_._------TOTAL 73 37 2 2 4 20 _------.------ TOTAL S~lf 60 51 2 2 Wife 54 16 3 2 30 SOil 41 28 2 Brother 5 3 Son's wife U 11 Others. 22 3 6 2 GRAND TOTAL 222 121 6 5 4 47 4 7-337 R.G. India/ND/88 34 STATEMENT TIl '4(c) Weaving No. of No. of persons engaged by nature of work performed in work-3 (Weaving) Village Relationship with persons where the relation in Col. 2 received training from the head engaged------·------~----- in the Father Mother Uncle Brother Husband Other craft relations 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 hitarwada . Self 20 18 2 Wife 16 1 Son 15 10 Brother 2 Son's wife 8 Others. 13 1 TOTAL 74 29 3 Ratiya Self 20 19 1 Wife 18 1 Son 15 11 Brother 2 2 Son's wife 3 Others. 17 TOTAt 75 33 Bhujodi Self 20 18 Wife 20 Son 11 10 2 Brother 1 Son's wife 7 Others. 14 2 TOTAL 73 30 2 TOTAL Self 60 55 3 Wife 54 Son 41 31 2 2 Brother 5 2 1 Son's wife 18 Others. 44 3 GRAND TOTAL . 222 92 6 2 From the data given in the Statement IlI.4 (a) household 15 received training from their father and it can be easily observed that the Carding and Spin 2 from uncle respectively. As regards wives and ning process of yam from the raw wool is not being son's wives majority of them received necessary carried out in Bhujodi and Ratiya villages. This is training from fathers and husbands viz., out of 16 mainly because of the fact that the craftsmen of of Chitarwada village, 6 received from fathers and these villages are using ready made yarn including 9 from husbands. Since the spinning process is a polyster blended yarn purchased from outside, simple one, all craftsmen may not perhaps require whereas this process is being done in one selected training, but according to them one learns by practice village, viz., Chitarwada, for which tiecessacy' train also. ing seems to be needed. The spinning process is being done both by male and female members. The The process of warp making is one of the impor data further indicates that out of 20 total heads of tant item of work iu weaving of blankets or shawls 35 and hence the necessary training for this process is are engaged in the weaving work except that a lone also essential for any craftsman. Both male and female is also doing this work in Chitarwada and female members are engaged in this process. Out of Ratiya villages for which they took training fronl 60 heads of the household, 51 received training from their husband. Out of total 60 heads of the house their father and 2 each from uncle and brother. So hold 55 received training from their fatlier, 3 from far as female relation with the head of household is uncle and 1 from his brother. Whereas the majority concerned the wives with number 16 took training of sons are trained for weaving by their fatber in from father and 30 of them from their husband. the traditional w_ay. Whereas most of the sons learnt this art from their father. The villagewis<:: data also gives more or less the same picture. In Chitarwada and Ratiya village 3.2 Distribution of craftsmen by the period of about almost all heads of the household received training. training from their father, whereas in Bhujodi out of 20 heads of the household 14 received from father The following statement shows the total and 2 from their son. The statement-III 4 (c) shows number of persons engaged in the craft who received the craftsmen engaged in the weaving process which is necessary training from the various persons for final stage of preparing this handicraft. The data specified period. Since no remuneration is paid for further indicate the sex differential in the working of receiving the training the column for the same is not this process. It is observed that only male craftsmen shown in the statement. STATEMENT III·5 Total number of persons engaged in the craft who received necessary training from the various persons for specified period Persons from whom Training period Name of village training received ---~~--~---~------...------___..---______.. Less than 6 months to 1-2 year 2 year and Total 6 months 1 year above 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1. Chitarwada a. Father 1 37 7 4 49 b. Uncle 2 3 c. Brother 1 d. Husband 15 5 20 e. Others 1 TOTAL 56 12 5 74 2. Ratiya a. Father 38 11 51 h. Mother 4 1. 6 c. Uncle 1 d. Husband 9 3 14 e. Others 2 3 TOTAL 3 51 18 3 75 3. Bhujodi a. Father 5 19 16 4 44 b. Mother 2 c. Husband 6 7 7 21 d. Others 6 6 TOTAL 11 33 23 6 73 TOTAL a. Father 7 94 34 9 144 b. Mother 5 1 2 8 c. Uncle 2 1 4 d. Brother 1 e. Husband 7 31 15 2 55 f. Others 7 2 10 -~------TOTAL 15 140 53 14 222 36 The training period varies from below 6 skill for weaving of any item like blanket or shawl months to 2 years and more. The data further can be achieved. disclose that out of 222 craftsmen 144 persons received training from father of which 94 _Qersons Furfh.er the training is tmpar-teg. *,y tJ;ae family took it for 6 months to 1 year, 34 for 1 to '2" years members which is obligatory and hence the question whereas only 9 persons received it for more than. 2 years. It is also seen that 55 persons received of paying any remuneration for receiving training necessary training from husband ef whivh more than does not arise for them. naIf of them received it for 6 months to 1 year, 15 for 1 to 2 years. The other data are insignificant Tenus and condi!ioDs of traiDing.-It .has been for statistical interpretation. It can be easily said observed that since tbe required training is imparted from the above data that training for the period of mainly by the family members the question of decid 6 months to 1 year seems to be sufficient for crafts ing any terms and conditions does not arise for them. men to learn the process of weaving. However, in Bhujodi village 20 craftsmen took training for more The following statement presents the details regard than 1 year of which 4 took even more tban 2 years. ing period engaged in craft, availability of better Jt was also reported by the craftsmen that by practice facility and intention to receive better training etc. STATEMENT III'6 Details regarding period engaged in the craft availability of better facility and intention to reaiei'Ve betttr trinil1g ------~--- Village Period engaged in No. of No. of persons who considers the tr.lining Number in r, vour of the craft persons received is engaged ------~------Receivec1 Not receiving in the craft Adequate Inadequate better better ------training training Reason-l for Reason 2 For work/House- Education & Reason -1 hold Under train- Not work ing 4 5 6 7 8 2 3 ------Chitarwada Less than 5 years 7 2 5 7 5-9 years 17 10 7 17 10-19 years 12 10 2 I 11 20+ years 38 24 14 4 34 TOTAL 74 46 2& 5 69 ---_--- Ratiya Less than 5 years 23 16 5 2 6 17 5-9 years 9 8 6 3 10-19 years 13 12 7 b 20+ years 30 25 5 12 18 TOTAL 75 61 12 2 31 44 Bhujodi Less than 5 years 22 17 5 7 15 5-9 years 10 10 8 2 10-19 years 16 16 9 7 20 : years 25 25 11 14 TOTAL 73 68 5 35 38 (under training) .. TOTAL Less than 5 years 52 35 10 7 13 39 5-9 years 36 28 8 14 22 10-19 years 41 38 3 17 24 20~' years 93 74 19 27 t)l) TOTAL 222 175 40 7 71 151 37 The above data discloses that out of total 222 for the same. However, it was observed that all persons engaged in the craft, 175 consider tht;: the 14 househo:ds did not report any specific reasons training received by them through their family iJr sw::h restrictions. members in a traditional way is adequate whereas .<~) p~rsons are consider it in adequate, the reported 2. Source of acquirement, etc.-It was observed reasons for inadequate training are due to househo1d that all the persons engaged in craft in the selected work they could not received the sufIicient training. three villages reported that they acquired skill through Whereas 5 persons all in Bhujodi village were under relatives in a traditional way only. training at the time of survey and 2 persons ill Ratiya v;Ua[',c reported reason 'due to study'. Villagewise 3.3 Biographical Sl{etch~s of craf{sman : distribution of data further indicates that in Chitar wada village out of 74 total craftsm~n, 46 reported As already stated in earlier paras that the crafts that the training js adeqQate for them. The respec men of the selected villages g~nerally received. neces tive figures in remaining two viJla;2es are still impres sary practical training mainly from their nearest rela sive. They are 61 out of 'is ;';l~,:sm~n.in Ratiy:; tives and as such they do not g::> outside their place viliugc and 68 out of 73 c'a"tsmen in Bhuiodi for any training. From the inten:e\'les during the village. field survey it has been observed that for the crafts men of the Chitrawada village no training camp was Regarding the assessment of training it will be organised in the village nor any craftsmen was spon observed that out of total 222 craftsme:' 151 reported sored for training so far by the district development that they do not need any better training. The authority. They have acquired traditional training training is not necessary according to craftsmen since from the family members only. However, the brief t)ley acquired sufficient skill in craftwork whereas 71 biographical sketches of a few mastercraftmen of persons are in favour of receiving better training due Ratiya and Bhujodi villages who also received the to which they can still improve the t~chnique of national award ai·C given as below :- w-eaving. (1) LATE SHRI KACHARA DEVA As the craftsmen of Bhujodi with their perseve In Ratiya village it was narrated that late rance and initiative have made their shawls and blankets famous for its designs and quality. There Kachara Deva, who had a strong urge for iiiaking fore, Handicraft and Handloom Board. Western improvement in the craft. Therefore he learned the Circle has started imparting training to the budding finer points of the craft from the craftsmen of Savar craftsmen with an intention to improve their craft to Kundla (Bhavnagar district) which is wellknown for its fine work or from other place. He was utilising further extent. it for bis own work. Later on the other craftsmen of Ratiya village learned it and started incorporating The training camp was organised in the village it in their weaving process. Shri Kachara Deva was itself with the help of master craftsmen. One of a master craftsman and had achieved a very high the ma SECTION IV-MANUFACTURING PROCESSES The following statement IV.1 gives details of houee 4.1 Place of Work holds and persons engaged in the craft and their Except very few cases, all the craftsmen carry out the craft in tbe part of their dwelling housei.· place of work. STATEMENTNT IV.l Penns Engaged in the Craft and their place of work No. of persons engaged in the craft Sl. Place of work No. of house Total No. holds No. of head of No. of persons household other than head of household 2 3 4 5 6 CHITARWADA 1. Part of dwelling house 17 17 38 55 2. Workshop owned by Head of household 2 2 12 14 3. Workshop owned by others . 4 5 TOTAL 20 20 54 74 RATIYA 1. Part of dwelling house 18 18 49 67 2. Workshop owned by Head of household 2 2 6 8 3. Workshop owned by others . TOTAL 20 20 55 75 BHUJODI 1. Part of dwelling house 18 18 49 67 2. Workshop owned by Head of household 3. Workshop owned by others . 2 2 4 6 TOTAL 20 20 53 73 The above statement shows that in Chitarwada carry out their craft in workshops owned by other 17 households and 18 households each in Ratiya than head of the household. and Bhujodi carry out their work iii part of their dwelling houses. 2 each in Chitarwada and Ratiya The statement IV.2 gives details about the period of years engaged in the craft by broad age carry out the craft in workshop owned by the head groups and head of household and other than held of household, while 1 in Chitarwada and 2 in Bhujodi of household. 39 40 ..... 00 M I' 00 le'I 00 ...... N "" 1M I o 0\ '" 00 .....' I", o N ...... I: 00 ...... 0\ V"\ 1 V"\ '" ' ...... ' N ...... N ...... 00 o '"M o 0\ V"\ I~ I I, ~ <>.... V"\ 0\ I:: 0\ .8 .5 .8 .8 .8 + + o o o o o o '" V"\ N N N '"CL> ~ 41 Most of the head of households are engaged in are situated in the nearby vicinity. They do not have the craft for more than 20 years. Out of 60 house to travel much, therefore, they do not require aily holds, 47 households are engaged for more than 20 type of transport for reaching tile place of work. years. 9 are engaged for more than 10 years. 2 are engaged for more than 5 years while remaining 2 are The following statement gives details about per engaged for less than 5 years. sons engaged in the cmft CfOSS classified by distanre The most of the craftsmen are working in the from house and mode of transport used to reach the part of their dwelling houses and workshops which place of work. 53 households of the three centres STATEMENT IV·3 Distaace from place of work and Mode of Transport Place of WOIk. and mode of tran&port Distance from the house to the place of work No. of Total Part of tho Workshop head of No. of dwellina ------households persoDl' hoUIC Owned by Owned by engaged in engaged itt the houle other than the craft the craft hold household mode of mode of transport transport on foot on foot 1 2 3 4 5 6 CHITARWADA Part of dwelling 17 55 55 Less than 1 km. 3 19 14 5 lUTIYA Part of dwelling 18 67 67 Less than 1 km. 2 8 8 BHUJODI Part of dwelling 18 67 67 Less than 1 km. 2 6 6 comprising 189 persons are working in the part of work does not worry at all to any of the craftsmen their dwelling houses while 7 households with 33 of the three centres. persons have to walk a distance of less than 1 km. for The Statement-IV.4 deals with place of work of reaching workshop i.e. the place of their work. Thus persons engaged in the craft classified by area 9CC\l" the problem of transport for reaching the place of pied and number of persons working therein. STATEMENT IY·4 Place of work' and, No. of Persons Occupy the Working Area Occupied area of the place of work Place of Work No. of Persons 6 to 10 sq. mts. 11 to 16 sq. mts. 17 to 24 sq. mts. 25 sq. mts. and moro engaged in the Persons working Persons working Persons working Persons working craftt 2 to 5 6 to 10 2 to 5 6 to 10 2 to 5 6 to 10 2 to 5 6 to 10 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 CHITARWADA 1. Part of dwelling house 55 38 5 12 2. Workshop owned by house hold 14 9 5 3. Workshop owned by others 5 5 RATIYA 1. Part ot dwelling house 67 40 10 6 5 2. Workshop owned by house hold 8 8 3. Workshop owned by others BHUJODI 1. Part of dwelling house 67 47 5 15 2. Workshop owned by house hold 3. Workshop owned by others 6 6 8-337 R.G. India/ND/88 42 The above statment indicates that out of 222 working in workshop owned by household 9 occilpy persons engaged in the craft in the three centres under an area of 6 to 10 sq. mts. 5 persons 17 to 25 sq. study, 189 persons are working in part of dwelling, 22 mts. and 8 persons 25 sq. mts. and more area. 11 in workshop owned by household and 11 in workshop persons who are working in workshop owned by owned by relatives of households. Moreover, it is relatives of the household, while 6 in the workshop observed that majority of persons occupy an area of owned by co-operative society in Bhujodi occupy an 6 to 16 sq. mts. while few occupy an area of 17 to area of 11 to 16 sq. mts. 24 sq. mts. and 25 and more sq. mts. The statement-IV.4(a) covering the details about Among 189 persons working in part of dwelling, 88 occupy an area of 6 to 10 sq. mts. 70 persons 11 place of work of persons engaged in the craft classi to 16 sq. mts., 10 persons 17 to 24 sq. mts. and 21 fied by area occupied and problems relating to place of persons 25 sq. mts. and more. Out of 22 persons work shows details as under : STATEMENT IV ·4(a) Persons Occupying the Working Space of ProbJems Faced Occupied area of the place of work Place of Work 6-10 sq. mts 11-16 sq. mts. 17-25 sq, mts. 25+ Sq. mts. Adequate Inadequate Adequate Inadequate Adequate Inadequate Adequate Inadequ ato ' 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 CHITARWADA Part of dwelling house 24 14 11 6 Workshop owned by head of household 9 5 Workshop owned by others 5 33 14 16 6 5 RATIYA Part of dwelling house 40 16 5 6 Workshop onwed by head of household 8 Workshop owned by others. 40 16 5 14 BHUJODI Part of dwelling house 47 5 15 Workshop owned by head of household Workshop owned by others. 6 53 5 15 ------_------The above statement gives a picture of the opinion is adequate. I The 20 persons have expressed that of the persons engaged in the craft regarding the avail they have to instal the loom in the dwelling house in ability of the working space to them. In Chitarwada the Varandah which does not leave required area for 54 persons feel that the space available for carrying movement. (see figures 1, 2, 3 of Chitarwada). out the craft is inadequate. While 20 persons of Chitarwada feel that it is inadequate. However, The Statement given below. deals with house il).. Ratiy,a and Bhujodi they feel that space available hold owning place of work classified by area occupied. 43 PLATE - IV ,) . Village: CHITRAWADA· ~ _0_ U I I 0 f 0 ~: '::::~ ~ ~ ~~ =~ P I .c. I Room ~ Room 0 I .I; "0 "c: , ..0 , CJ > I t (QQ] I , fig;.. , . 00 00 f- 0 0 I-- Room Aoorn ~ c Verandah Varandah I,;.,._J {: :=] ~ ------._.~-- ...... ~ ._....-.._.~- ...... ~ Fig.-2 Fig:-3 Do t Room ~ : ]J LOOM ~ KITCHEN FIRE Ul JOOl @:§J WATER PLACE (PANIHARA t " " L;..]' o GRAIN STORAGE VarQndQh o Ground plans of houses of the craftsmen showing the area available and living condition of Chitt:awada 44 PLATE - v Village: RATIYA o 00 -o Room 1.___------.JP L... _____ ~q'9ncta_h______-- ..... Fig.-1 00 Room Fig.-2 DO ~ ~ LOOM Room ~ KITCHEN FIRE [00] WATERPLACE (PANIHARA) 0 0 GRAIN STORAGE Varandah -"-'------.".. Fig;- 3 Ground plans of houses of the craftsmen showing the area available and living condition of Ratiya 45 PLATS -VI Village: BHUJODI •• Aoom - _ Room 0 1= ~hed ~. "0 Aoom tI 0 .s:. VI n e u Fig.l 0 0 o 0 · " ...... ·.... . ~ • ••••• 0 n r'-': 00 ! - ro Fig.3 loom ::::::·..... FRAME ,"Gilt Shed •••••• ••• ••• WARP MAKING 00 ~ :J-': P LOOM CVl KITCHEN FIRE o tool WATERPLACE (PANIHARA) o o o GRAIN STORAGE ·...... PEGS FOR Verandah ·..... WARP MAKING Fig.2 Fig,' Store Show Loom Room Room Shed ... 0000 1 T ~2 0 . ~I I. a D' an t yelnFor~9 e Work anok {!!I i- _ _, -- ...... ------Ground plans of houses of the craftsmen s/.lowing the area available and living condition of Bhltjodi 46 STATEMENT IV·5 Households owing the place of work and "orldDI are a occupied Area occupied by number of households Place of work owned by the household No. of ~--~------household 6 to 10 11 to 16 17 to 24 25 engaged sq. mts. sq. mts. sq. mts sq. mtl. & morc 2 3 4 5 6 CHITARWADA 1. Part of dwelling house 17 13 4 2. Workshop owned by household 2 1 RATIYA 1. Part of dwelling house 1& 12 1 1 2. Workshop owned by household 2 2 BHUJODI 1. Part of dwelling house 1& 15 2 2. Workshop owned by household The above statement reveals that 53 households of ~ 2' x 1or. Other process ~ke warp making, sizing, are working in the part of dwelling houseb(~ds, 4 dyemg etc. are earned out m open space available households work in the workshop owned by the near the household. In Bhujodi the craftsmen are household. prepar~g then:: warp inside the house itself. They are usmg warpmg frame of pegs fixed in the wall of a Out of 53 households working in part of dwel varandah or room. Hence they need open space only ling house 25 occupy 6 to 10 sq. mts. of area while for sizing the yarn. Thus, they do not face the shor 23 households 11 to 16 sq. mts., 2 households 17 tage of open space so acutely as felt by the crafts to 24 and 3 households 25 sq. mts. and more area. men of Chitarwada and Ratiya villages. House sket While among 4 households owning workshop, 1 occu ches showing the position of looms and other house py an area of 6 to 10 sq. mts. while 1 occupy 17 hold articles and area used for Chitarwada Ratiya to 25 sq. mts. and rest of 2 occupy an area of 25 sq. Bhujodi. ' , mts. and more. 1. Chitrawada Figures 1, 2, ~, 4, The craftsmen have utilised the area available to them according to their convenience. Normally the 2. Ratiya Figures 1, 2, J. looms are placed in the varandah in horizontal or 3. Bhujodi Figures 1, 2, 3, vertical positions. In vertical position the warp por tion is projected into adjoining room through a small Figures 4 Co·operative Society. opening in the wall or making the room slightly smal lar (see figure 1, 2, 3). The craftsmen of of Ratiya has slightly more space available with them for car 4.2 Purity and Pollution Associated with the Craft rying out the weaving process than the craftsmen of Chitarwada (see figures 1, 2, 3, 4). This craft is purely manually operated one. In other words, all the implements and tools used in this craft are operated by hand only. Therefore, any While Bhujodi has got more space available with type of fuel or energy is not required for carrying out them than that of Ratiya. The two craftsmen of the craft. Hence, question of pollution of any type Bhujodi who are economically sound have much more does not arise. All the 60 households selected for ::.pace available with them. They hav~ in';talled 4 this craft of the three centres who belong to Vankar looms of 120" width in the separate shed in the cour caste have reported that the problem of pollution is tyard (figure 4). not associated with this craft. The cotton and woollen weavers co-operative society has a spacious workshop where 6 looms of 120" 4.3 Description of various items manufactured width fly shuttle looms are installed. Here the crafts men work on labour charge basis. Normally the tra Each of the three centres selected for this survey ditional looms of 5 r x 7" require an area of 8' X 9". produce different designs in each item and practically While looms having width of 120" require an area each household produces all these items. 47 The details of items produced by the three centre. Then chokhta with navdhari-Dora one line of are given below :- uchatiya-two lines of Dora then comes Mor (Peacock) two times of Dora, then comes sakal Cbitarwada and Dhaja. These are woven with coloured woollen yam such as pink, yellow, green, red, 1. Dhabla-I, 3, 4, 6 Tara white, etc. It is woven in two parts of 27"x90" andl~ stitched together to form a full size of 2. Lobdi-Plain, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, Tara 54"x90". 3. Tangalia-Plain, I-Tara, with designs III. TANGALIA It is prepared as plain, 1 Tara, and with designs. 4. Galiyu-Plain, 1-Tara, with designs The plain one has its entire body in black colour with narrow white lines in the border area. 1 s. Kamli-l, 3, 4, 6-Tara wIth design, Tara is slightly thicker having red border but similar to plain one. White designed one has 6. Charm alia-Plain, I-Tara, with designs red border and the tabby in black one. The different designs and motifs are inserted while 7. Maflar-Plain and with designes weaving with coloured yarns. The coloured used t _ ~ are mainly yellow, pink, light-green, middle-green 8. Kamal-Plain, 1, 4, 6, Tara and white. The designs woven are Vel (red doted line), Butti (six doted circle) then again 9. Dhusla-Plain, I-Tara with designs Vel, Pathra-Asa-Vel-Pathra-Asa Vel-Pathra-Butti-Vel, Mor-Derdi-Karolio 10. Shawls-Plain, I, 2, 3, Tara -Piyali-Derdi-Ambo - Sasavado--Derdi Deri-Butti - Bavdhari-Vel-Kangasia-ni-asa -Vel-Navdhari-asa-Vel-Butti. The full size 11. Chundadi-Plaip., 1-Jara, 2-Tara is 54" x 90" it is also woven in two part of 27"x90". 12. Asaniya IV. GALIYU I. DHABLA It is prepared as (i) Plain (ii) 1 Tara and (iii) These are produced in 4 different types-(i) 1 with designs. Here also the tabby is in black Tara (ii) 3 Tara (iii) 4 Tara and (iv) 6 Tara. colour. 'fhe designed one has few designed Tara means single thread or yarn used in weav woven at both the ends locally known as "chhe~ ing. Here 1 Tara means one thread is used as das". This is also prepared in two parts, one warp and one thread is used as weft. Thus, 3 part has 24'/ ;<: 90" size. The two parts are Tara means 2 warp threads and one weft thread stitched together to form the full size of 48" x 90". are used in weaving. Locally this is also called ·'Dodhiya". V. KAMLI This item is prepared in 1, 3, 4, 6, Tara and In 4 Tara, 2 warp and 2 weft threads ~~e-li'sed, one with design in it. The entire body is of 6 Tara consist or 3 warp and 3 weft threads. black colour. The borders are of red colour, Thus, increase in the number of threads corres small strips of red colour. The size is 54"x90" pondantly increase the thickness and weight of woven in two Pilrts. the products prepared. The Dhablas are woven in two parts one part comprises of 90" x 27" VI. CHARMALIA size each. These two parts are stitched to form full size of 90" x 54". The border is woven in Three varieties are prepared (i) Plain (ii) 1 maroon-red or crimson-red colour while tabby is Tara and (iii) with design. The tabby of the. in white colour. The designs are woven at the Charmalia is black and it has red border. The two ends of the Dhabla. designed one has red border and designs in the tabby. The designs are as under. It starts II. LOBDI with Doro--Butti-Dora-Butti-Doro--Pathra -Doro-Gap--Doro-Asa. Doro-Doro This is prepared in 6 types- Pathru -- Doro-Mor - Sasavadi - Dantia--. Ambo-Karolio-Mor-Doro - Pathra-Doro (i) Plain, (ii) I-Tara, (iii) 2 Tara (iv) 3 Tara -Doro-Asa-Doro - Pathra - Butti-Doro. (v) 4 Tara and (vi) 6 Tara. The size is 48" x 90" woven in two parts of 24"x90" and stitched together. :rhis item is also woven in two parts. The tabby IS of black colour while design is woven in the entire body with different coloured woollen yams. VIL MAFLAR The designs used are (local names). Dora The craftsmen have recently started producing this Deradi, Dora, Pathra, again Dora then comes item. It is 8" to 10" in width and 3' in length Dalila, again Dora then 3 lines of'uchatiya are and woven in different colour with some design wo ten-Dora. at both the ends. 48 PLATE-VII CHITARWADA DHABLA -~-~------======-==:====.=== = _=_=_ ~ ======-===-=:_=_:=_=_=.:_=_; ------======::======_=_=_ =_ =-~=- =_~:;_ ==._=_=_=_= _::;'_==-_=-= _= _=_ ------1.- -":"- -':- -':'- ... ------=-=.-=.~-:.~==.:----"':..-:.-==-----~-=.-::------~.; === =:.::::- :.'":----..:-::_-:_-_-_-_-.-_-_-_---_-.::---::..::_-_-_-=------=---====..-:...-:..-_":.."':..-=:::-:- ~----.:.::------:...-:..-======-:..-==:---~~ .:.~~-:.::. =. -= -:: ~ ~-----.=:..: :.-----....._-.:.::-_ ------.... _ ------_. -::"~""- ==::;-::. =-~-= =-~;:_.~~_-_-_- _-_:-.::- _-_-_-.: .:-.:--=_-:~-::_.::.- =:. ;:_~-:'_-.:=--=:'-.::ffj~:... -_~..;:-.= ~~ ':. -:::;.:.. ~-;.~ __ -~ ._ .. _._ ::_1_;_:_ -=:I- - -.~-- -;~- ---~---~~-- -;~.. - -y- --~-:----=:: _=_":.._ .=-:5-_ _:::_ ~.:_ _=_=-_ _=:..,_ _.;:_:._ ,;..:-:.. .,;=. ------_ ~~~~~====~~~~~-:-~-~==:~~~~-:::::; ------, : : ~ ------.,.------~~~ ------.------: - ~ - ~ - : - : - :. - : - ... .. to. - - =_- , =- -- _,. -- ::- - - ;;.- - ~ =- ,.. ~ ,.. ------. - -- -- " =- - ... =- : - -- : - : : - -- -- : - ... :.. --- - = -:. ------=-- - . - - - - :- - :: . - =- . - ~ - : = : .- ~ - ...... -:. - : -:------= -- --- .- - - : - - . - . . ...-=: ..... : i.';' -.;-~= ~-= ~-:=;: -=-=--~-£.-:-:-~:: ... ---~- =-=-..= ::~-:-=:------... ~ ~ :'=~:==---- .• :::: ::::= ''':.-:..... _":' -::.::,,'::'~ '" --'" - --= - --~~-= . -:_~~~- --~-:--::;-- ---~;;:_--::_: ..._;.--- •__ .... ~ _4::::&...... - :.;::... =~.:=:.. .:-_-==-_,_-:.-:..-_._ -'::=-i;..--:':'':-- --:~-:..:.. - :-'::2_ ... -- ------... --_------.. _ ------==&::==-"':..-_=:~==.=====::.:._:a':..':.~~..._~.::..-: .:- ':.-_--~ -:. -:.. -_ -_ --~:: =. =-:. -=."':. -_-_-_-_-_-_-=--:..-_ -_ -_ ... , -':: == ===--_-_-:::. -:: =--:--_-- ~ ": %.:-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ -= === -== =_-_ -:_ ---_-_ --::.. ~ =- =.: =:. ':. -=- ~---_-_-_-:..-_-_------_------~fI'jll)'rl'~lIijlllllllllrrlllllll)!IIIII'm\lli!!l'II!!III!11!lliI!ll'III!I!III\I!mlll~II'lfl!'IIIII!III~1 M~llnl'I!IIII~Il~1111111I\1I~n'\IIIII1~\\i1\11\1II~~!!\1111l\\lllilll\11\11~1\11Vl\I'lrW~ 49 PLATB-VIU ~:::==~~==:====~~~=:==::-~~~~=~=====::=:=::=:=:=:~=:-;::==:===:::::-~~~-:::::-~~~:~~~-::=:::======~~~~~~-::::::·...... " . .. .. -~~~ ~ ...... " ...... :..._-_-_-_-_-_-= == =_- ::: =:==:~7.._=:..;::. :::. ~-_-_-: ==::.,::.,-_-_-.: :::-:::======::::.:.-_-_-: == =-:.-.::::. ... ~-_- --=.: =: ======..-_-:' == == ::.:::. -=:~ :::.~':.":. :,:-:::. ~::':.:.-_ -:. ~-:.":. - ~~I~~~§1i\l~~t~ri~~!tfff!t~!1~r!fjit~~~}fi¥rf}!~lt&ttlg~~~lll~lttf _: -i·; _~~_ ~~~_}~~_~~~__ ~3~_~~~_~~.~~~}J~ _~~~ }J~ _~~;_}~~ _~~_~_ I~~:~~_ ~~_ }~~ _~~~_ }~~ _~~_~_ JJ~ _~~~._~~~ _~~_~_}~~_~~~}_;_~__ ~~~ _~~~_~~~_ --:;:-.. . ---.:-;...... --;-.----...... -- .. --...... ----I .. ;--. --..-.- ... " .. --.-.----...... -; ...... -.-:-----;-;----. . .. . -";.0;- .. . --- _..•• . .- ---~-.---- .. . .-.-. ... -- --...... ---I."... --- :~\.!-__...7._:.:.:,1::.:::.!!:::.:.:=:._:..:::;::.-_-_-_-_! _ __!-::_- __:.!._!_ ... ~:.._-! .. ::.";.-;:':.-:.!:.~':.~:.;=~=.:.:=:_!~:=:::.._:.."':..-_-_-::~~-_-:==.=.='::.-:..- ..!._!_-.:_-:. __~_!=.:===:;:.:.:.:. , I '1 1 1 I =: :;::_-_-."'"_ ~-:::'::== ==: ::_.-_-_ -:,_--:. -::::- =.:=::::: =:::-=.: =...._---_ -_~::::-.: _-_-_---:_---.:.:.:: .:...... - -:.-:. -_-: -:. -::. -= ==-_-.: :;::-- == ::. -_--:. :---:. -_-_-::_-= == =-:::-::. :_-_: :: == .::~~:.. ::. ~:.;.!..=- • • • .::::!;-:.:-- • • • -:::.:::-~ • •• -=_=~:.- • • • _- ---~ .: '":. -=3:=;-:- .: '":. -=:..~~~-- : : ., .. i-:_ ... -~!}:. •"i;~:; . ....:~~- -:~~_ ~~~ -.t~j:- -~~:-.- -::~~.. ...... : : . ' ·. .' '. . '. '. . .. .. , ...... '" ...... :1 ...... " ...... '. =_-_" __ ...... ~ ... .., iii ...... " .. ; : : : : : ~ III 1[ I ' I ' I : I I I i I I I I I : I I I , I I I I I I t i I I I I ...... I ...... I '. .. .. I: ...... ·...... , ., -.::-- --:-- -{«< Vi , .>F .:;t ';_; .-l. -::-':~ .. I!..~.r .. _"'";_ _;'j." ":..:~-- ..,... .: -:if:.- ....-_- ":r .. -..:~: : ... ( ( ... N . .N. :~.. - ... < .:.:...... " 9-337 R.O. India/ND/88 * so -, I I t I' I I ,I I I I ! 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":"- ...... _... -. ... - ...... - .. ... 51 PLATE-X CHITARWADA LOBOI -_-_-_-:_-:_-::: _- =_-:-"':_ .... ~-~ -_- _-_-.:':::.. -;=:.:. :.== :::':.":.":::.. -=~: :::.:.:: :::::----'":..--.::_-..-..~'!,::;:=: - ______-1 ___ .. - -_ ._--, ---- _ ..... _------'-- _.------...... _-... _ -.---.. --~ ... -- --~ -:.::~ .. -~::::~- .'.~~:. -:::~ ~-::~-- -~~~-<:::::... - ....::-: .. ~~.. - ~~~-- ..-::~- -~::-- -:.:-::.. - ...~~~--:~-~=-~~~.~::-=--- ___ __.. __ .. -_.._.. _0<_.. _- = _..,.. .. - ______.. ___-- - _.... -.... ___-.... _.__.... ___.. - _.. _.- _..... ~--- - .. - .... - -~- --- -.- --- ...... __ -_ -- --- _... - _.. - --- -... _ ------.. ------..--_ -- .-.--.. -...... ------_- .. ...- -::.- _:::. ~-::-:- --.:-:-" --:-:-- ::__ -.- :::- ----._.._- ..-..-.:.- ::-.."_- -:.::.-- -::.::-- :::;.- .:..-....:- ---::: --;:. ------.. _------.------~------~-.. -----.. ~------~------~------j-:------_. ...---_ --..~ _---. .. .... _ ."'_ .• __ .• _.~ _ • __ ... _ ...... ___ "*'"'" ..... ____ .... __ .. ______.. ______..... _l'o ___ • ______.. ___ ... - w _ .... ___ .~ ____ • .______.... __ ...... ______.. ______.. _ ...... _____ ...... ____~-::~-:. .. __ • ______ .. _ .. _ ~ __ .. _____ ._.,. v .... ~~ ...... ___ ~.~ .~~ ~ ______' ______, .... __ - _.~ __ •• •• - _." ."'- .' - o_w. _~~ ... ______... ______ ---- ~y~¥~¥~y~~~y~y~¥~y~y~y~ ... _-::. __.... _-::- ... _::----_ -: _--_---_ --- _- --.- - -_ ____ -: ::'-:...------.. ==::--... -- _-:.1.-=:.- --.. _.f:.:_- --.. _-7_~~-".-- :--_-_':..:.:':.---:.,-:.:--_-_ '::: .. -=:. -:. 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Z:.~; 52 PLATE-XI Lobdi (Chitarwada) Kamal (Chitarwada) A-337/88 53 PLATE-XII --.. --.., ~ ~ "g ""I:l ;s: ~;s: a.... a.... ~ ...... ~ ~ ~ U U '-- '-- .~ .~ -~ ~ s:: a....E &:! ~ ~u B-337/88 54 PLATE-XIII Chundadi Shawls Dhabla C-337/ 88 55 PLATE--XIV Lady in her traditional attire • 56 PLATE-XV Dhabli Mafiar Asaniya (Bhujodi) Sofa Cover Wall piece (Bhujodi) E-337/88 57 PLATE--XVI Kachchhi Kora (Ratiya) Kamal (Ratiya) Kamal (Ratiya) F-3371S8 58 (Ratiya) PLATE-XVII Patiya Betha Dhusla G-337/ 88 • ) S9 PLATE-XVIII Shawls (Ratiya) Mer ni Kali Kamal (Ratiya) H-337/8S 60 PLATE-XIX Dhabla with full designs, this has won Rashtrapati award (Bhu;odi) . Dhabla with half designs (Bhujodi) 1-337/ 88 61 PLA ' Khati (Bhlljodi) Ludki (BhujodiJ 1-337/83 62 PLATE-XXI Shawls (Marina Wool) (Bhujodi) Shawls (Tie and dye) (Bhuiodi) K- 337/ 88 63 PLATE-XXII Shetranji (Bhujodi) Chaddar (Bed sheet) (Bhujodi) L-337/ 88 64 PLATE-XXIlI Chundadi (Bhujodi) Sales of finished items (Bhujodi) M-337/88 65 VIII. KAMAL I. DHABLA This is prepared in 1, 4, 6 Tara and Plain. This Tbese are woven in 5 types-(i) Plain (ii) 2 is also woven with black wool. The tabby of Tara (iii) 4 Tara (iv) 2 Tara with designs and the Kamal is black with red border. A few (v) Dhabla with designs. These are woven with line with coloured woollen yarns are woven at Deshi wool whi>h is slightly rough in finish aql;l both the ends (chhedas). This size is 48" x 90" those prepared also from the blended yam is prepared in two parts. smoother and have fine finish. It is woven in two part i.e. 27"x90" in size. The stitching is done with coloured woollen threads forming IX. DHUSLA different designs. The plain Dhablas have red or maroon coloured border having black litles Qn It is also prepared in three types-(i) Plain (ii) both sides. The size of the border is about 1 Tara and (iii) with designs. It is woven 2" to 4" in width. Th~ maroon colour,d lines with black wool having border of 3" to 4" are woven at both the ends in Chedas. It has width or smaller strips of red or maroon colour. various designs woven during the weaving process In some articles, designs are woven in different in bright primary colours. The size after stich colours. The size of this item is 54" x 90" ing two parts is 54" X 90", woven in two parts each of 27" x 90". II. KACHCHHI KORA X. SHAWLS Plain, 2 Tara, 4 Tara, with design, these are similar to Dhablas. The difference is in the They are prepared in 4 types-(i) Plain (ii) 1 weaving process of the border. In weaving of Tara and (iii) 2 Tara and (iv) 3 Tara. These this item, two weft are used, one is white and are woven in different colours or woven with other is red. The white and red wefts are inter white wool and afterwards dyed in different locked in such a way that the red weft runs only colours. Various designs are also woven during upto the border portion and white upto tabby the weaving process. The size of shawls is area only. Thus, the border remains rich red 27" x 54". in colour. Whereas_ in_ genen.ll weaving process the weft is always of one colour only. This gives lightmixed effect in border area. Other designs XI. CHUNDADI and colours are same as that of Dhablas .. The size of Kachchhi Kora is S4"x90" Which is Chundadi are of three types-(i) Plain (ii) woven in two parts i.e. 27"x90". 1 Tara and (iii) 2 Tara. The plain white woven shawls are sent for tie and dye work III. DHUSA which is carried out by the dyers, "Rangati". These tied and dyed shawls are called Chundadi. This item is produced in 3 types-(i) Plllin Sometimes, the jari embroidary is done on it to (ii) 2 Tara and (iii) 4 Tara. They are woven make it more luxurious and attractive look. It with deshi wool as well as polyster blelll,led wopl is woven in two parts of 27" x 90" and stitched which the craftsmen call it vilayati wool. The tog()ther to form full size of 54" x 90" designs of square are woven in two colour in the entire body. Many colour combination are XII. ASANIYA used in weaving the squares. The sjze is 54" x 90" woven in two parts 27 x 90"]. Asaniya are prepared in square size of 2' x 2'. The design are of geometrical pattern. They are IV. KAMAL KALI prepared in various colours and colour com This item is either woven in black wool. The bination. border is woven with white lines. The full size is S4"X90". 4.4. In Ratiya following items are produced. V. KAMLI I. Dhabla Plain, 2 Tara, 4 Tara, 2 Tara with designs and Dh~bla with designs. Kamli produced in 5 type-(i) Plain (ii) 2 Tara 2. Kachchhi Kora Plain. 2 Tara. 4 Tara with designs. (iii) 4 Tara (iv) 4 Tara with designs and (v) Mcrni-Kali Kamli. 3. Dhusa Plain, 2 Tara 4 Tara 4. Kamal Kali Kamnl K,ali, 2 Tara The item is woven with black wool. The plain and 2 Tara have no designs woven in it while 5. Kamli PI~jn. 2 T~ra 4 Tara, 4 Tara with 4 Tara have woven designs. Merni-Kali Kamli designs. Mellli Kali has few designs. Size is 54" x 90". 6. Shlwls Plain, 1 Tara, 2 Tara, 3 Tara, 4 Tara VI. SHAWLS 7. Betba There are also produced as (j) Phi., (ii) 1 Tara, 8. Patiya 2 Tara. 3 Tara and 4 Tara. There are woven 10-337 R.G. India/ND/88 66 either with yarns dyed in different colours or 2. LUDKI woven with white woonen yarns and dyed in different colours afterwards. The size of the This item is produced with black wool, the Shawl is 27" X 48". different coloured yarns are used to weave the designs in it. The wool used is from 1 q. the size is of 54" x 90". VII. BETHA This item is similar to the Dhablas but it is 3. GHEDVA woven in 2 Tara only. The size of this item is 54"x90" woven in two parts of 27"x90". Ghedva is prepared from using wool of 500 gm. to 1 kg. The designs are 'Y0ven wit? ~iffere~t primary coloured yarns. SIZe of thIS Item IS VIII. PATIYA 39"x84". Patiya are woven in 2 Tara and 4 Tara. The border of this item is either in red-maroon 4. BAGIDO colour or black, while rest of the tabby is white. Bagido is woven with Dc::shi wool .only. T_he It is also woven in two parts of 27"x90". These tabby is white and the. dIfferent desIgns a~e ~ parts are stitched together to form full size of serted during the weavmg process. The SIZe IS 54" X 90". 34"x84". The articles prepared by craftsmen at Bhujodi village considerably differ from that of Chitarwada 5. DHABLI and Ratiya village. These craftsmen are using mill Dhabli are woven in two types (i) plain (ii) 1 made blended yarns and marina woollen yam which Tara. This item is also woven with Deshi wool. are much more softer than deshi and other woollen It is lighter in weight and mainly used by ladies. yarn. The products prepared by them are- The size is 54"><90". Plain, 2 Tara, 4 Tara, 2 Tara with designs. 2 Tara with full designs. (). KHATI 3 Tara with Jess designs, 4 Tara with design and Dhabla with design. It is also produced in Deshi wool from 500 gm. to 1 kg. The colo~r of the tabby is w~ite colo~r (2) Ludki having the border III colour red. The SIZe of thIS (3) Ghedva item is 54"x90". (4) Bagido 7 . SHAWLS PLAIN (5) DhabU Plain. 1 Tara These are produced with Deshi wool as well as (6) Khati 1 Tara blended woollen yarns. The plain ones are either white or in different plain colours. This item is (7) Shawls Plain prepared in 36" X 90" . (8) Marina Marina ShaWls, Marina full design, Shawls Marina Bandhani. 8. MARINA SHAWLS (9) Shetranji These are prepared with marina woollen yam (10) Galicha (carpet) which is soft and superior in quality. This yarn is of high quality and is next to Pashmina wool (11) Chaddar (cotton Bed sheet) which is used by the craftsmen of Kashmir. Thus, the shawls woven from this wool are soft and (12) Asaniya have good finish. The designs are woven in the (13) Maflar entire tabby with different colours. The bor~er is of red, maroon and black colours. The SIze is of 34" x 84". 1. DHABLA 8a. Marina Bandhani is initially woven with white 8 Varietie~ ..are prepared! they are (i) plain (ii) wool. The designs are woven with white cotton 2 Tara, (111) 4 Tara (lV) 2 Tara with design thread at both the ends. Afterwards the tie and (v) 2 Tara with full deSigns (vi) 3 Tara with dye process is carried out in various designs and less desig~s (vii). 4 Tara with designs and (viii) c()lours. The size of this item is 48"x90". Dhabla wIth desIgns. These articles are woven in deshi wool, blended yarn, terriwool and poly SHETRANJI (DARJ) ster blended yarns. The designs are interwoven 9. during the weaving process. A few designs are The craftsmen have recently started weaving this woven by inserting the loose separate yarn L (weft) item. These are woven by woollen and cotton through a separate shuttle or by hand. Size of yarns. These are produced in various designs, Dhabla plain, Dhabla with half designs and, colours and sizes. The small one has the size Phabla with full designs is 54"X96", . of 48"x 84", while big one has 58" x 90". 67 10. GALICHA (CARPET) 12. ASANIYA These items are woven in 24" X 24" size by This item is also recently started by the craftsmen using cotton and woollen yarn. These are pr~ of Bhujodi. The geometrical pattern and floral pared in different colours. There is a broad designs are woven in various colours. Thick border on four sides and designs in the centre. cotton yarn is used as warp, while thick woollen 13. MAFLAR yarn is used as weft. Galicha with border are prepared in two sizes (i) 48"x90" and (ii) The craftsmen have recently started producing 58"x 100". this item. These indicate that craftsmen have modified their production according to public demand. These are produced in different colours 11. CHADDER (COTTON BED SHEETS) and designs. The size of this item is 8" to 10" in width and about 3 ft in length. The craftsmen of Bhujodi have started manufa cturing item after studying the consumer's trend. As the educational level of head of the These are prepared with cotton yarns of various households does not have any effect, the same is not colours. Different designs are woven in it, pre shown in the Statement. Statement IV.6 shows number of households manufacturing these items and pared in 48"x84", 58"x90" and purpose for whicl) they are produced and used by 120"x 110" on fly shuttle looms. males or females. STATEMENT NO. IV'6 Details about the number of households manufacture the items purpose for it is manufactured and use by No. of households manu- Used by facturing the items Sl. Name of Type Purpose No. the item Chitar- Ratiya Bhujodi Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi wada M F M F M F 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 1 DHABLA Plain. 5 2 Covorin,g M F M F 1 Tara 18 M F 2 Tara 5 8 .. M F M F 3 Tara 20 .. M 4 Tara 12 6 1 .. M M F M 6 Tara 1 M 2 Tara with designs 4 M F M F 3 Tara with less designs 1 M 4 Tara with designs 2 M Dhabla with designs 1 " M F M F 2 LOBDI. Plain. 5 .. Covering for reli- M gions priest 1 Tara 4 " M 2 Tara " M 3 Tara 6 M 4 Tara 11 .. M 6 Tara .. M 3 TANGALIA . Plain. 8 Wearing (or F ladies 1 Tara " F With designs 3 .. F 68 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 4 GALlYU Plain , 7 Covering for F ladies 3 F 1 Tara " With designs 2 F S KAMLI Plain 2 Covering M 1 Tara 1 .. F 2 Tara 3 .. M 3 Tara 2 .. F 4 Tara 3 3 F M 6 Tara • 2 F 4 Tara with designs M " Kamli with designs 3 .. F Kamli Kali , Covering for F Ahir ladies Merni Kali 1 Covering for F Mer ladies 6 CHARMALIA Plain 9 Wearing for F ladies 1 Tara • 4 F With designs 2 F 7 MAFLAR 2 Covering neck M M S KAMAL Plain Covering M 1 Tara " M 4 Tara M 6 Tara 1 M Kali 8 " Covering for M Bharwad male Kali 2 Tara M 9'UHUSLA Plain , 7 " Wearing for F ladies 2 F 1 Tara " With designs, 2 F JO SHAWLS Plain 1 6 7 Covering M F M F M F 1 Tara 3 4 M F M F 2 Tara 1 2 M F M F 3 Tara 2 1 M F M F ., 4 Tara 3 M F 11 MARINA SHAWLS Shawls 7 Covering M F Full designs 3 M F Bandhani M F l'lain 14 Covering F 12 CHUNDADI 1 Tara F 2 Tara F 69 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 13 ASANIYA 4 2 Sitting carpet for performing puja 14 KACHCHHI Plain. 9 Cov.:cing m.Jstly .. M KORA by Bb.arwdd male 2 Tara .. M 4 Tara M With designs 3 M 15 DHUSA Plain . 8 .. Covering mostly M by Bharwad community 2 Tara 3 M 4 Tara 2 M 16 BETHA 5 .. Covering M F 17 PATIYA 9 Covering by la- F dies of Bharwad 18 DHABLI Plain . 3 Covering for F Rabari ladies 1 Tara 2 F 19 LOOKI 2 Covering for F Rabari ladies 20 OHEDVA . Wearing Rabari F la'dies 21 KHATI . 1 Tara 2 Covering M F 12 BAGIDO Covering for F ladies 23 CHADDAIl Cotton Bed Sheet M F 24 SHETRANJI 12 Floor Covering M F (Carpet-Dari) lS GALICHA . 5 Floor Covering M F (Woollen carpet) It is observed from the above statement that The data given in statement IV.6 indicate that only Dhabla--4 Tara and plain shawls are manufac out of 20 households, 18 manufacture Dhabla 1 Tara tured by all the three centres. Kamli--4 Tara, Shawls, 1, 2, 3, Tara are produced b;y Chitarwada and Ratiya and 3 Tara by all households while 4 Tara and 6 village only. Dhabla-Plam, 2 Tara, Dhabla-2 Tara are woven by 12 and 7 households respectively. Tara with designs and Dhabla with designs are woven The Dhablas are produced as a covering garment. by Ratiya and Bhujodi village. Mafiar and Asaniya Dhabla l & 3 Tara are used by male and female are produced by Chitarwada and Bhujodi centres while rest of the items are produced exclusively by both while 4 & 6 Tara are used by male member each centre separately. only. 70 In Ratiya and Bhujodi, the p1ai!l Dhab~a, 2 T~a The Dhusla are prepared in Chitarwada village & 4 Tara D11ablas, 2 Tara with desIgns, 2 rara wIth only. The items produced are plain by 7, 1 Tara by full designs, 3 Tara with less designs and 4 Tara 2 and Dhusla with designs by 2 households. The with designs and Dhabla with designs are prepared Dhusla is used as wearing garment for ladies only. by them. Out of 20 households each of Ratiya and Bhujodi, 5 households of Ratiya and 2 households of The plain shawls are manufactured by the crafts Bhujodi prepare plain Dhablas, 2 Tara Dhablas men of all the 3 centres, 1 household of Chitarwada, are prepared by 5 households of Ratiya and 8 house () of Ratiya and 7 of Bhujodi are engaged in pre holds of Bhujodi. 4 Tara Dhabla are produced by paring it. 6 of Ratiya and 1 of Bhujodi. The Dhabla with designs, 2 fara with designs, 2 Tara with full designs, For 1 Tara 3 households of Chitarwada and 4 of 3 Tara with less designs, 4 Tara with designs are Ratiya are engaged. 2 Tara, 1 of Chitarwada and mainly prepared by Bhujodi craftsmen. The number 2 of Ratiya households, 3 Tara 2 of Chitarwada and of households produced are 1, 4, 1, 1, 2, respectively. 1 of Ratiya are engaged, while 4 Tara are produced In Ratiya 1 household each produces Dhabla 2 Tara by 3 households of Ratiya only. The shawls are with designs and Dhabla with designs. prepared as covering garment for males and females both in winter season. Lobdi is exclusively prepared by craftsmen of Chitarwada maximum of 17 households are engaged Marina shawls are exclusively prepared by the in preparing this item, 5 households are engaged in craftsmen of Bhujodi village. 7 households prepare preparing plain Lobdi, 4 in 1 Tara, 1 in 2 Tara, 6 in Marir~ shawls. 3 households produced Marina 3 Tara, 11 in 4 Tara, and 1 in 6 Tara. The Lobdi shawls with full designs woven in it, while 1 house is prepared as covering garment to be used by religious hold produced Marina Bandhani. priest 10l,;ally called 'Bhuva'. Thus, they are used by male Bhuvas only. Chundadi is manufactured by craftsmen of Chitarwada only. 14 households produced plain The Tangalia is also prepared by the craftsmen Chundadi while 1, 2, Tara are prepared by 1 house of Chitarwada village. Plain Tangalia is prepared hold each. The items are used as covering garment by 8 households, 1 Tara by 1 and Tangalia with by ladies alone. designs by 3 households. These items are prepared as covering garment for ladies. Asaniya is prepared by Chitarwada & Bhujodi village, 4 households of Chitarwada and 2 households The Galiyu item is also exclusively prepared by of Bhujodi are engaged in producing it. The item is craftsmen of Chitarwada village. 7 households are used as sitting carpet while performing puja. Kachchhi engaged in preparing plain Galiyu, 3 in I Tara, and kora is one type of Dhabla with variation in weaving 2 in Galiyu wit11 desIgns. These are used as covering process. The item is produced by Ratiya village only. garment by ladies. Plain Kachchhikora are prepared by 9 households, 2 Tara and 4 Tara by 1 household each, while The Kamli is prepared by the craftsmen, of Kachchhikora with designs by 3 households. Chitarwada and Ratiya only. Kamli 1 Tara, 3 Tara, Kachchhikora is prepared as covering garment and is 6 Tara and Kamli Wilh designs are produced only used mostly by males of Bharwad community. by Chitarwada village. Households engaged in pre paring it are 1, 2, 2, 3 respectively. While Kamli Similarly, Dhusa is also manufactured by Ratiya plain, 2 Tara, 4 Tara with designs and Mer-ni-Kali village only. 8 households are engaged in preparing Kamli are produced by Ratiya village only. The plain Dhusa, 3 in 2 Tara and 2 in 4 Tara. The Dhusa number of households engaged in preparing it are is prepared as covering garment and this item is also 2, 3, 1, 1, 1 respec~ively. It is prepared as covering mostly used by males and females of Bharwad com garment for ladies by the craftsmen of Chitarwada munity. village, while cr~ftsmen of Ratiya prepare it for the use of male members. In Ratiya 5 households are engaged in producing Betha, while 9 are engaged in preparing Ratiya. Betha Charmalia is manufactured in Chitarwada village is used as covering garment by males and females only. 9 households are engaged in preparing plain both, while Patiya is used as covering garment by C""harmalia, 4 in 1 Tara and 2 in Charmalia with female members of Bharwad community. design!>. This item is used as wearing garment by ladies. Mafiars are prepared in Chitarwada and In Bhujodi Dhabli plain and 1 Tara are pro Bhujodi village only. 2 households of Chitarwada duced by 3 and 2 households respectively. This item village and one household of Bhujodi village are en is prepared for the use of Rabari ladies who are using gaged in producing it. It is used for covering to pro it for covering purpose. tect one from the chilly cold and winds of winter. Similarly, Ludki is also prepared by 2 households The Kamal plain, l, 4, 6 Tara are prepared by of Bhujodi village only and is used as covering by the craftsmen of Chitarwada village. One household females of Rabari community. is engaged in preparing this items, while Kamal Kali and Kamal Kali 2 Tara are produced by Ratiya The Ghedva is exclusively prepared by the village. 8 households prepare Kamal Kali while I craftsmen of Bhujodi, 1 household is engaged in pre household prepares Kamal Kali 2 Tara. paring it. It is used as wearing garment by Rabari 71 ladies. The khati 1 Tara is prepared by 2 house They also prepare Shetranji--cotton carpet holds of Bhujodi village and used as covering garment Dari; 12 households are engaged in preparing it. These are mainly used as floor covering. by males and females both. The craftsmen of Bhujodi have recently started Bagido is prepared by the craftsmen of Bhujodi weaving of Galicha-woollen carpet. 5 households are only. 1 household is engaged in weaving it. The engaged in preparing it. They are used as floor covering in big houses, restaurants and hotels. Bagido is used by ladies as covering garment. Monthly Production and Seasonal Variation in The craftsmen of Bhujodi have started diversi-' Production.-The Statements IV-7, IV-8 and IV-9 fication in preparing the items according to the relate to average monthly production of each item changing taste and demand of the people. They have produced by the number of households and its seasonal variation in production. It is observed tbat started manufacturing cotton Chaddars i.e. Bed sheets the educational level of the craftsmen does not play of various designs. One household is engaged in any significant role in the production of handicraft preparing it. The Chaddars are used to cover beds. items. STATEMENT IV.7 Distribution of households manufacturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a month, average monthly production and seasonal variation in the production of the items CHITARWADA S1. Name of the item Type No. of Total Average Seasonal Variation No. households monthly monthly ------manufac- production production No. of Produce Produce Produce turing the per house- households more in more in according items hold having winter summer to demand seasonal variation 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 '} [0 (1) CHITARWADA 1 Dhabla 1 Tara. 18 20 1 ·00 18 18 3 Tara 20 20 1 '00 20 20 4 Tara 12 15 1 '00 12 12 6 Tara 7 7 1 ·00 7 7 2 Dhusla Plain 7 10 1 ·00 7 7 1 Tara 2 3 2·00 2 2 With design 2 2 1 ·00 2 2 3 Tangalia Plain 8 8 1 ·00 8 8 1 Tara I 1 ·00 With Design 3 3 1 '00 3 3 4 Chundadi Plain 14 16 1 ·00 14 14 1 Tara 1 ·00 2 Tara 1 ·00 5 Lobdi Plain 5 6 I ·00 5 5 1 Tara 4 4 1 ·00 2 2 2 Tara 1 r 1 ·00 3 Tara 6 6 1 ·00 4 3 4 Tara II 11 1 ·00 8 2 6 6 Tara 2 2·00 6 Charmalia Plain 9 9 1 -00 9 9 I Tara 4 1 ·00 4 4 With Design 2 4 2·00 2 72 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 7 Galiyu Plain 7 8 1 '00 7 7 1 Tara. 3 3 1·00 2 2 Wi,h Design 2 3 2·00 2 2 8 KamJi 1 Tara. 1 2 2·00 1 1 3 Trara 2 2 1 ·00 2 2 4 Tara. 3 5 2·00 3 3 6 Tara. 2 2 1 ·00 2 2 With Design 2 3 2'00 2 2 9 Kamal Plain 1 2 2·00 1 Tara. 1 ·00 4 Tara. 1 ·00 G Tara. 1 ·00 10 Shawl Plain 3 3·00 1 Tara. 3 4 1 ·00 3 2 2 Tara. 1 2 2·00 1 3 Tara. 2 2 1·00 2 2 11 ~saniya 4 6 2·00 12 Mafiar 2 3 2·00 2 2 The above statement shows that in Chitarwada 7. Galiyu: The average monthly production of out of 12 items are produced of which 10 items are plain and 1 Tara is 1 while with designs prepared in various types which comes to 38 types. have 2. These items are mostly produced The Dhabla 1 Tara, 3 Tara, plain chundadies are more in summer season, but some produc produced by 18, 20 and 14 households respectively. tion is done throughout the year. Rest of the items are produced by few households. ~. Kamli: 1 Tara, 4 Tara, and with design The average monthly production of each item have average monthly production of 2 each prepared per household and their seasonal variation while 3 Tara and 6 Tara have 1 each. These is given below : are mainly prepared in winter season only. 1. The Dhablas of 1, 3, 4, 6, Tara are woven 9. Kamal: 1 Tara, 4 Tara, 6 Tara are pro 1 per month and all the households pro duced 1 per month while plain Kamals are duced this items have reported its more pro prepared 2 per month. The production of duction in winter season. these items is done in winter season. 2. The Dhusla: Plain and with designs are 10. ~hawls: Plain and 2 Tara average produc prepared 1 each while 1 Tara are 2 per tIon of 3 and 2 per month respectively month. It is reported that the production while 1 Tara and 3 Tara have 1 each: of this item is more in summer season. Plain shawls and 2 Tara are prepared in summer. While 1 Tara are produced in 3. Tangalias: Are manufaotured 1 each per winter and summer both. Only shawl month. Its production is more in summer. 3 Tara is prepared in winter season. 4. Chundadi: Plain, 1 Tara and with design 11. Asaniya and Maftar : Have averaoe monthly are prepared 1 each per month. The pro & production of 2 each. Asaniya~ are pro- duction is done in summer seaSOn. 12. duced all the year round while Maflar are produced in winter only. 5. Lobdi: Plain 1, 2, 3, 4, Tara are prepared 1 each per month while 6 Tara comes to In Ratiya 8 items are prepared. Out of these 2 per month. The seasonal product of 3 6 items are woven in various types which comes t~ Tara is in winter and summer, while plain 25. Main production of Dhablas, Kachchhikora 1, 2. 6 Tara is only in summer. plain, Kamal K~li and Patiy~ is done. The monthly average productIon of each Items produced is given 6. Charmalia: Plain and 1 Tara have average below: monthly production of 9 and 4 respectively while Charmalia with designs have 2 per 1. Dhabla. Plain: 2 Tara and Dhabla wIth month. The Charm alia plain and 1 Tara designs have production of 2 per month. are produced in summer season only. while while 4 Tara has 3 and 2 Tara with designs cbarmalia with designs are prepared botb have 1. pe~ month. These items are p-re- in winter and summer season. pared In WInter season only. . STATEMENT IV.S DistributioQ of households manufacturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a month, average moolhy production and seasonal variation in the producfion of the ltetlls iuTIYA S1. Name of the item Type No. of Total Average Seasonal Variation No. households monthly monthly manufac- production production No. of Produde Produce Produce turing the per house- hOuseholds more in more in according items holds having Winter Summer to demand seasonal variation 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 (2) RATIYA 1 Dhabla Plain 5 11 2·00 5 5 2 Tara. 5 10 2·00 5 5 4 Tara 6 17 3 -00 5 5 2 Tara wi th design 1 1 1'00 1 Dhabla with design 1 2 2'00 1 2 Kachchhikora Plain 9 28 3·00 7 7 2 Tara 1 1·00 1 4 Tara 3 3·00 4 Tara with design 3 3 1'00 3 3 3 Dhusa Plain 8 14 2·00 7 3 4 2 Tara 3 7 2·00 3 3 4 Tara 2 4 2·00 2 2 4 Karnal Kali 8 21 3'00 7 7 2 Tara 1 4 4·00 5 Kamli Plain 2 5 j-oo 2 2 2 Tara 3 6 2-00 3 3 4 Tara 3 10 3·00 3 3 4 Tara with design • 1 2 2'00 1 1 Kali 1 2 2'00 1 Merni Kali 1 3 3·00 6 Shawl Plain 6 10 2·00 5 3 2 1 Tara 4 13 3·00 4 4 2 Tara 2 3 2·00 2 2 3 Tara 1 1-00 1 4 Tara 3 9 3'00 2 2 7 Betha 5 12 2·00 4 3 8 Patiya 9 21 2·00 9 8 1 2. Kachchhikora: Plain and 4 Tara have 4. Kamal: Kamal Kali, production of 3 and avet"age monfhly production of 3 each while 2 Tara has 4 per month. The production 2 Tara, 4 Tara with designs have 1 each. is mainly done in winter season. The production 2 Tara, 4 Tara and 4 Tara with designs of this item are done in winter season. While Kachchhikora plain is pro 5. Kamli plain, 4 Tara and Mer-ni-kali Kamli duced throughout the year. has been produced 3 each per month while 2 Tara, 4 Tara with designs and Kamli Kali 3. Dhusa: Plain 2 and 4 Tara have produc has 2 each per month. All the items except tion of 2 per month. Dhusa are prepared Mer-ni-Kali Kamli are produced in winter in winter season only. One household is season while Mer-ni-Kali Kamli is prepared weaving it all the year round. in summer season. 11-337 R.O. India/ND/88 6. Shawls: Plain, 2 Tara are prepared 2 each In Bhujodi main production is Dhabla 2 Tara, per month, 1 and 4 Tara 3 each and 3 Tara Dhabla plain, Shawls plain, Marina shawl, Shetranji. 1 per month. Plain shawls are produced in winter and summer season, while other The average monthly production of each item items are prepared in winter season only. produced is given in the statement No. IV.9. 7. Betha has an average production of 2 per 1. Dhabla: Plain 4 Tara, 2 Tara, with full month. Mostly it is woven in winter designs, 3 Taca with less designs and Dhabla season, but at times it is also prepared with designs have an average production of according to demand. 1 each per month, 2 Tara has 6 per month, 2 Tara with designs has 3 per month, 4 8. Patiya is prepared 2 per month. It is also Tara with designs has 2 per month. These produced in winter season and also accord are prepared in winter season. 1 household ing to demand. produces all the year round. STATEMENT IV.9 Distribution of households manufacturing different objects by number of items manufactured in a momh, average monthly produetion and seasonal variation in the production of the items BHUJODI SI. Name of the item Type No. of Tot::l! Average Seasonal Variation No. households moathly monthly ------manufac- produc, ion production No. of Produce Produce Produce turing the per house- households more in more in according items holds having Winter Summer to demand sea~onal variation 2 3 4 5 G 7 8 9 10 (3) BHUJODT 1 Dhab\a Plain 2 2 1·00 2 2 2 Tara 8 45 6·00 7 5 2 4 Tara 1·00 1 2 Tara with Design 4 10 3·00 4 3 2 Tara Full Design 1 1·00 1 3 Tara Less Design 1 1 -DO 1 1 4 Tara with Design 2 3 2·00 2 2 Dhabla with Design 1 ·00 2 Ludki 2 20 10·00 3 Ghedva 15 15·00 4 Bagido 6 6-00 5 Dhabli Plain 3 45 15 ·00 3 3 1 Tara 2 18 9-00 2 2 6 Khati I Tara 2 4 2·00 2 2 7 Sh?wl Plain 7 72 ID-OO 6 6 8 Marina Shawl 7 58 g·OO 7 6 Marina Full Design 3 3S 12-00 3 2 Marina Bandhani 15 15·00 1 9 Shetranji 12 66 6-00 7 3 2 10 Galieha 5 4 1 ·00 11 Chaddar Cotton 15 15-00 12 Asaniya 2 20 10 ·00 13 MafIar 10 to-DO 75 2. Ludki: has an average production of 10 In Ratiya and Bhujodi, the craftsmen are using per month and prepared mostly. in winter ready-made yarns. The ready-made yarns come in season. While one household do It through different varieties. out the year. (i) Deshi Woollen Yarn: This is spun by mills, 3. Ghedva: 15 are prepared in a month and it is blended with different variety of wool produced in all the year round. and is of much smoother in quality and 4. Bagida: has a production of 6 per month various colours. and produced in winter. (ii) Vilayati Woollen yarn. This is spun yarn by 5. Dhabli: plain has an average production of mills. h is blended with different variety 15, while 1 Tara has 9 per month. These of wool and is much softer than deshi items are also produced in winter season. woollen yarn and available in various 6. Khati: 1 Tara has been prepared 2 per colours. month and are also produced in winter season. (iii) Polyster yarn terriwool yarn: This yarn is 7. Shawls: plain has an average production of blended with woollen and polyster yarn or 10 per month and produced generally in Terylene and woollen yarn. winter only. However, only one household (iv) Marina Wool Yarn: The yarn is made from produces all the year round. Marina sheep wool which is much more 8. Marina Shawls: is prepared 8 per month smooth and of fine in quality. This yarn while marina shawls with full designs are is used by the craftsmen of Bhujodi village 12 and Marina Bandhani 15 per month, only. Marina shawls with full designs are pro (v) Cotton yarn: Mill spun yarn from cotton duced in winter and at times produced used in weaving designs and in Khalvat according to demand. Only Marina Ban work. dhani is prepared in winter only. (vi) Jari Thread: This is prepared from meta 9. Shetranji: is prepared at an average of (> lised plastic in golden colour and is pur· per month .and prepared during the year chased from market. This is used for round and also according to demand. making the designs richer and attractive. 10. Galicha: is recently been manufactured (vii) Pankandas: These are white onion shaped here. The average monthly production is tuberous roots, grown in the hilly areas. It 1 and is prepared against demand. has bitter taste. In Ratiya and Bhujodi 11. Cha.ddar is prepared 15 per month and pre they called it as Dungras. These are grown pared according to demand. in hilly area of gir forest in J unagadh, 12. Asaniya: The average monthly production Barda hills, J amnagar and Rajkot and is 10 per month and prepared as per Surendranagar district and thus they are d~.lp.and. locally caJled as Dungras (pankanda). 13. Mafiar: has a production of 10 per month These are boiled and thick milky liquid is and this item is also prepared according to extracted from it which is used for sizing demand. the yarn. At times wheat flour is also used in preparing sizing fluid. It is observed that the total monthly production (viii) Dyes: the colours mostly of primary shade is 207 for Chitarwada. It is 223 for Ratlya and it is is used for dyeing the yarn which is used 467 for Bhujodi. The production per person engaged for forming different designs in the variety in the craft comes to 2.78 for Chltarwada, 2.':)/ for of items produced. Ratiya while for Bhujodi ~t comes to 6.30. Thus, Chitarwada reports lowest, Ratiya is slightly higher (ix) Chemicals: Alum, Tamarind, Acid are used than Chitarwada while Bhujodi has highest produc for fixing the colours in making the dye tion. fast. 4.4 Raw-material Used In Chitarwada raw sheep wool of white and The Raw-material utilised in the production ot black colour, pankanda, cotton yarn, colours dyes woollen blanket is (i) Sheep wool, woollen yarn, Vi) Alum, Tamarind powder are used. Pankandas or wheat flour, (iii) Dyes, (iv) Few chemi In Ratiya the craftsmen are using ready-made cals such as Alum, Tamarind powder and Acid-acetic yarn only. The raw material used by them is Deshi or Sulphuric. woollen yarn, Mill made woollen yarn, Terrywool Sheep wool is the basic raw-material used in the and polyster blended yarn, Cotton yarn, Jari thread, craft. Pankanda/Dungra and wh~at flour is used Pankanda and wheat flour, Alum, Dyes, Acid. Here preparing the sizing fluid. The dyes are used to colour mill made blended woollen yarn is known by crafts the white woollen yarn. The colours or dyes used are man as Vilayati woollen yarn. pink, yellow, red, maroon, magenta, blue, green and The craftsmen of Bhujodi are also using ready black. The chemicals are used to fix the dyes. made yarn, Deshi woollen yarn, Cotton yarn, J ari (i) Sheep wool: is used for preparing the yarn thread, Pankanda, wheat flour, Acid-Acetic acid or required for weaving the items, the raw sulphuric acid. wool is used by the craftsmen of Chitar wada village only. They spun their yam by The following statement gives the details of raw hand from the raw wool. materials used in each item produced. 76 PLAT!!-XXIV - ".>- Raw Material "'" c 1. Raw Wool, 2. Spun Wool, :) Cone, 4. Skun, 5. PankatuUI " ~ ~ ! ~ ~ ~ - .... ~ ,g .B g .s g g g S S .s .s ~ ;;: ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~$;Ii~~ ~ ~ ~ 8 888 ~ ~ ~ '!' M M M M on M .... B .9 .8 B .s.8 E.s N S .s g ~ g g g g 8 g ~ r:- ~ "0 ~ '0 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ o 0 o 0 0 000 1 .S 8 ~ 1 M 8 ....o 'Q i o .... s .... on V> on V> g g .s.s M ~ ~ ~ .... M M ....o <"l ~ ~ ~ ~ .... <"l .... \0 . • 0 Qiz 78 0 .. 0 -.t ~ N N 00 ...... ,.00 .,f -.t ..,. .9 00 00 00 .9 .9 .9 0 ..,. 0 ..,. N N 0 0 N 00 N N 00 \C \C ...... ,. 00 I'- I'- .... ::. ~ <~ 0 ~ <~ 0 0 8 0 "., '" '0 '0 <;I , 0 0 0 ., N ,..., N ~ 0 N N N .9 ., "., 00 .9 .9 ..... 0 0 0 0 S 0 0 0 0 8 0 0 0 bJ) 0 "., 0 8 .9 8 8 '0 <;I '0 '0 '0 '0 '0 '0 '0 '0 0 '0 0 0 o. It') 0 0 0 0 It') 0 0 0 0 ~ I'- <~ 0 0 0 ,.., 0 0 0 0 0 '0 '0 '0 .9 '0 \CI 0 0 0 N N ~I ! ,.., 0 0 ,.., 0 0 8 0 '0 0 EbJ) It') 8 .9 '0 '0 '0 N N '0 N N ~ N 0 8 .9 0 ~ '0 ..... ~ N .9 0 f:l: "., '" N :§ ~ 0 ...., 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 8 'tii 8 '0 '0 '0 '0 "'" '0 '0 .9 "0 ~. "'" "'" 0 0 0 0 0 <"I N ~~., e s o~ E & 0-... ~... ] ~ ~I ., ....., p. .... '" 0;;6h ~« Q) ., "0 "0 II 00 \0 00 Q- ...... : ~ : ~ c c 8 8 If) '0 ~ ~ 8 N N ON'" E~B :~ S B ~ B N_ • 0 B B ~ 8 ~ g 8 '88888 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ on <:I '0 'Q 'Q "? 'Q If) '" .... Q N .... - ...... 000 01 os 01 .9_g Er ~ ~ ~ro Q., .... NMf-o " a;Z.0 \- 81 From above statement it is observed that items (v) Kamlis are manufactured with Deshi wool produced have different proportion and quality of len yarn of 1 kg. to 2 kg. in 4 Tara material is used. Vilayati woollen yarn of 1 kg. to 1.50 kg. is also used. In 2 Tara KflDlli 200 gros. and in 4 Tara 60 gros. of Jari thread is used. In 4 Tara design~d :f(amli (i) Dhablas of different varieties are prepared Kali J ari is used according to reguire from 1.5 to 3 kg. of Terriwool, Deshi ment. Mer-ni-Kali Kamli is produced wool and 500 gros. of polyster blended with 500 gms. of Kashmiri woollen yarn, yam. The use of J ari Thread is also used 500 gms. of Pankanda while ~olour is as required. Pankanda from 400 gms. to done by the dyers. 2 kg. is used for sizing purpose, while in Dhabla 2 Tara 100 gms. of wheat flour is used. The use of colour is from 12 gms. to 96 gms. (vi) Shawls : are woven with deshi woollen yarn of 500 gms. to 1.50 leg. 1 house hold use coloured yam which he gets it dyed from outside. In plain shawls some (ii) Kachchhi Kora : Plain and 2 Tara are times J ari threads are also woven in it woven with 1 kg. to 3 kg. of Deshi wherein upto 60 gms. of Jari threa~s are woollen, while 4 Tara with 1.5 kg. of used. 100 gms. of cotton yarn is used in Vilayati woollen yarn of 1.50 kg. The 2 Tara and 3 Tara shawls. Pankanda of Vilayati woollen yam of 1.50 kg. is also 150 gms. to 1 kg. is consumed in these used in weaving plain Kachchhikora. The items. At times wheat flour is also used Jari Thread is used according to require in preparing sizing fluid. The eOIDur used ment in the item produced. In plain is <1bout 24 gros. to 120 gros. Kachchhikora 60 gms. of Jari Threads are used. While 100 gms. is used in Kachchhi kora 4 Tara and in Kachchhikora with designs. Jari Thread of 8.8 gros. Pankanda (vii) Betha : are prepared with Deshi woollen of 1 to 2.50 kgs. are used in this item. yarn from 500 gms. to 2.50 kg. For sizing Alum is used in dyeing process according fluid 2 kg. of Pankanda is used. The to requirement of the process. The colour colour of 6 to 84 gros. is also utilised. use is 24 gms. to 96 gms. (iii) Dhusa is woven with the Deshi woollen (viii) Patiya : requires 1.50 kg. to 3 kg. of yam of 500 gros. to 2.50 kg. if Vilayati Deshl woollen yarn, while they are also woollen yarn is also used in preparing this prepared with polyster blended woollen item from 1 kg. to 1.50 kg. 100 gms. yarn of 1.50 kg. The Pankandas from 1 kg. of Pankanda is used for making sizing to 2 kg. and colour about 6 gms. to 24 fluid, while colour of 12 gms. is also used gms. are consumed. for dyeing the yams. (iv) Kamal Kali 2 Tara is prepared from Deshi In Bhujodi one can observe that Marina woollen woollen yam of 1.25 kg. to 2 kg. and yam which is much superior to other woollen yarn 1.50 kg. of Vilayati woollen yarn. Upto is used by these craftsmen only. The statement 390 gms. of Jari thread is also used. The given below shows the quality of raw-material use(t colour used from 24 gms. to 120 gros. in each item. 12-337 RG. India/ND/88 82 o <:> on on N ...... o .8 o 8 on N - <:> 8..... - <:> <:> o o o o o '0 M M <:> ~ N o o S 8 .... .8 .8 o .8 .8 o <:> ..... g g g ~ g 8 g g o g g o o g 0 g <:> .., <;> '0 M If') '0 '0 <;> '0 ~ '0 '0 '0 ~ .... ~ ':" ~ '0 o 0 - 0 0 <:> _ 0 o o o 0 o o 000 o <:> o <:> o '0 o ....o o '0 I o N 1 -;,:..... o o ~ ~ 1 o o o o '0 o .8 1 \0 M o s S ~ ~ ~ ~ 0<:><:> o ~ M M N M o .s .8 N S ...... 8 .8 o o g o g g ~ ~ ~ "? ~ o c o o 0 o o ...... ~ o $ o '0 '6iJ ~ .0 Ji'Z o N 83 ( 1) The Dhablas : of various types are woven (8) Marina Shawls : are mainly woven with from Deshi woollen yarn from 1 kg. to Marina woollen yarn of 400 gInS. to 500 3.50 kgs. The Dhabla 2 Tara and 2 Tara gms. and also of 500 gms. of deshi Dhabla with designs are also woven with woollen yarn and 1 kg. of polyster blen polyster blended yarn from 1 kg. to 2 kgs. ded yarn. The use of Pankanda is from For 2 Tara and Dhabla with designs of 50 gms. to 500 gms. In Marina Band 2, 3, 4 Tara Marina woollen yarn is also hani 500 gms. of Deshi woollen yarn, used which varies from 1.50 kg. to 2 kg. 500 gms. of coloured woollen yarn and The cotton yarn of 500 gms. is used in 50 gms. of cotton yarn is used in weav 2 Tara Dhabla only. The Pankandas whom ing this item. 200 gms. of Pankanda are local people called as Dungras is used also used. The woven shawls are then from 500 gms. to 2 kg. according to the sent for dyeing in various tie and dye variety they produced. The craftsmen of designs. 10 to 50 gms. of colour and Bhujodi also use Acetic or Sulphuric acid small quantity of acid is also used. in dyeing process of woollen yarns. Gene rally, they use according to requirement of (9) Shetranji : It requires 500 gms. to 2 kg. each type. For Dhabla 2 Tara they are of Deshi woollen yarn and 50 gms. to SOO using 500 mi. of acid. The colour used is gms. of cotton yarn. For sizing purpos~ from 24 gms. to 500 gms. 100 gms. to 500 gms. of Pankanda and 100 gms. of wheat flour is used. The pro (2) Ludki : is prepared with deshi woollen yarn portion of acid is used as per requirement. of 1 kg. to 1.250 kg. and 500 gms. of 50 gms. to 150 gms. of colour is also Pankanda for sizing purpose. used. (3) Ghedva : are woven with 750 gms. of (10) Galicha : The Deshi woollen yarn from Deshi woollen yarn and Pankanda 100 gill. 3 kg. to 5.50 kg. and 500 gms. to 2 kg. are used for sizing purpose. of cotton yarn is used in this item. 200 gms. to 2 kg. of Pankanda/Dungra is (4) Bagido : requires 800 gms. of Deshi used. The quantity of colour from 200 woollen yarn and 100 gms. of Pankanda gms. to 250 gms. are required. and wheat flour. ( 11) Mafiar : is prepared from 100 gms. of Deshi woollen yarn and 50 gms. coloured (5) Dhabli : are prepared from 400 gms. to yarn. For sIzing purpose 50 gms. of Pan 1 kg. of Deshi woollen yarn. The use of Pankanda/dungra is from 100 gms. to kanda/ Dungra is used. As the rcadymade coloured woollen yarn is used colour for 1 kg. while 100 gms. of wheat flour is used and 12 gms. to 24 gms. of colour dyeing purpose is not required. is also consumed. (12) Chaddar : are woven with 1.50 kg. of cotton yarn. (6) Khati : is produced with 900 gms. to 1 kg. of Deshi woollen yarn and 500 gms. ( 13) Asaniya : required 200 gms. to 250 gms. of Pankanda and 100 gms. of wheat flour. of Deshi woollen yarn and 50 gms. of The colour used is from 12 gms. to 24 cotton yarn. The use of Pankanda is 25 gms. to 100 gms. and 5 gms. of colour is used. (7) Shawls : plain are woven with 500 gms. Thus the requirement of various raw material of Deshi woollen yarn of both types e.g. used in each of the different items made is dis white and coloured one. The shawls are also cussed above. prepared from 1 kg. of polyster blended woollen yarn and from 400 gms. of Mari na woollen yarn. The use of Pankanda/ The State ,uent IV.13 shows average monthly Dungra is from 50 gms. to 500 gms. and consumption of raw material by seasonal variation colour of 30 gms. of manufacturing different items. 84 ..... N ~ ;; ~ ;?; 0 o 0 000 8 '0 o ~ 8 a;s E!. on o on 0 0 0 <=!' <=!' ';> ~ ~ ~ ~ M ~ N N o 0 N o ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - o 0 N 0 g 8 on 8 V 'f' 'Q 'Q N '" ..,. ~ ~ ~ ~ .... <'l ..,. IC ...... • ci ~0Z &5 0 N " 0 0 ..... Cl 0 ":' ":' - Cl 0 N 0 N N 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 .,... t- o 0 0 8 '"t- o 0 ..... ":' 0 'f' ":' 0-"" ":' ":' ":' '0 '0 S 0 0 0 0 0 0 Cl '"0 0 0 0 0\ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 M 00 '0 '0 '0 "'""!" 0 0 0 N '"N " 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 'Q t- o 0 0 0 "'""!" '"t;- <;-I "'" ""'Q 0 N "9 '0 '""9 '0 '0 '" N N N N 0 0 0 0 .,... N 0 "" N .....0 '" " ~ 61 "'" ';;; II) "0 ..cl t:: oj os «I I:l ... I: «I Q oj ..s oj ';; os ~ ~ ~ j ~"" ~ 3 ..oj la a :; ~ l'C E-< E-< E-< ~ E-< ~ E-< E-< £ E-< E-< E-< ' -I- ...... g .~ II) .... .~ - 00 jj -.... if, V", 1--- 00 M I- "'I--M -OM - o c 8 o C ~l -o o o o 8II) o o o C M 0 00 00 o 00 -o c OO 0 o o 11):;:0 o II) '0 t;- o'S o ~ 8 8 '0 '0 o o ~ 8 8 1'1_ 8 ~I ~ ~ ~ ...... o o I-- M ...... .; S S p:;~~ -M .0 I~ U5Z I-- 00 88 (2) Kachcqhi Koras: In these items deshi ( 1) Dhablas: The average monthly consump woollen y&rp of 1 kg. to 1.7 kgs. Vilayati tion of Deshi woollen yarn of 1.75 kg. to woollen yarn of 1.5 kgs. Jari thread of 3.5 Lgs. 0.5 kg. of polyster yarn, 1.50 13 to 100 gros. or as per requirement is kgs. to 2 kgs. of Marina woollen yarn are utilised in weaving process. While 1 to 1.2 consllmed in preparing different type of kgs. of Pankanda are consumed for pre items. Cotton yarn of 500 gros., Pan paring sizing fluid. The colour used for kanda of 300 gms. to 1.6 kg. and colour dyeing the yarn is of 36 to 64 gms. These of 37 gms. to 500 gms. is utilised. These items are mostly consumed in winter items are mostly used in winter season. At ~qn. In plain variety material is ;:lIsa times all the year round and as per consumed throughout the year. demand. (3) Dhusa: Deshi woollen yam of 1 to 1.2 kg. (2) Ludki: The deshi woollen yarn about 1 kg. and Vilayati woollen yarn of 1 kg. are and 875 gms. of Pankanda are consumed. utilised. J ari thread of 8 gram and Pan This is mostly done in winter season but kanda of 646 to 875 gms. and 500 gms. at times throughout the year as the demand of wheat flour and colour of 12 to 89 ~s. for this article is there. is used. The consumption pattern IS 3 households consume it in winter 4 in sum (3) Ghedva: Average monthly consumption is mer and 1 in !ill the yellr round. 750 gms. of Deshi woollen yarn and 100 gms. of Pankanda. The material is utilised (4) Kamal Kali: For preparing this item Deshi throughout the year. woollen yam of 1.684 kg., Vilayati woollen yam of 1.750 kg. and 18 grams (4) Bagido: About 800 gms. of Deshi woollen of Jari thread are used. While Pankanda yarn. 100 gms. of wheat flour and 1 kg. of 1.333 kg. and 79 grams. of colour is of Pankanda are consumed. They are cQns1!me~. 'The consumption is mainly mainly used in winter season. done in winter season. Only 1 household consume it all the year round. (5) Khati 1 Tara: 950 gms. of Deshi wool. 500 gms. of Pankanda anct 100 gms. of wheat (5) Kamal: Deshi woollen yam of 1.3 to 1.6 flollr is used. These items are mainly COll kgs. and polyster blended woollen yarn of sumed in winter season. 1.5 kg. is consumed. In Mer-ni-Kali Kamal Vilayati woollen yatn of 0.5 kg. is utilised. (6) Dhablis: Average consumptions of Deshi Pankanda of 0.5 kg. is used for sizing woollen yarn is 490 gros. to 1 kg. Pan purpose. The material is used in winter kanda of 155 gms. to 720 gms. and wheat season. While 1 household consume it all flour of 100 gms. While 22 gms. of colour tpe year. is utilised. The use of these material is mainly in winter season. (6) Shawls: Deshi woollen yarn 500 gros. to 800 gms., ViJayati woollen yarn oJ 500 (7) Sh~wls Pla:n: About 500 gms. of Deshi gros. are used. Jari thread of 60 gros. and and coloured woollen yarn, 700 gms. of cotton yarn of 100 gros. are consumed. polyster blended woollen yarn and 400 gms. Pankanda of 300 gms. to 500 gros. and Marina wool1 ':n yarn, 239 gms. Pankanda wheat flour of 200 to 500 gms. and colour and 33 gms. of colour is used in preparing of 29 gms. to 108 gros. are utilised. These the various typ~s of shawls. The material items are prepared in winter and summer is consumed in winter season. season and at a time all the year round. (8) Shawls Marina: In these items Deshi (7) Betha: Average monthly consumption . Qf woollen yarn, coloured woollen yarn of 1.958 kgs. of Deshi woollen yarn, Jari 186 to 500 gms. and 65 gms. of polyster threa4 of 3() gros., 1.583 kgs. of Pankanda yarn and 400 to 500 gms. of marina and 45 gms. of colour is done in summer woollen yarn is used. Pankanda of 200 seasQn o.r as per the order received by tb~ gms. to 325 gros. and 17 to 20 gms. of craftstnell. colour is used. The consumption is mainly done in winter season. (8) Patin: Deshi woollen yarn of 1.8 kgs. Vilayati woollen yam of 1.5 kg., 18 gros. (9) Shetranji: The average monthly consump to Jari thread, 1.9 kg. of Pankanda and 17 tion is 1.5 kg. of Deshi woollen yarn, 2 kg. grams of colour is consumed in winter 9f coloured woollen yam, 1.5 kg. of season and also according to the demand. Marino. woollen yarn and about 367 grams of cotton yarn is used. Pankanda of about T~ above statement IV.IS gives average mC'nthly 600 gms. and 100 gms. of wheat flour, consqmJ:!fiop of raw-material utilised in the items colour of 95 gms. is also utilised. These produceO by the craftsmen of Bhujodi village i.e. by are m~i'ly consumed in winter season but the 20 llou~ehold selected for the present survey. generally throughout the year. 89 ..... 8 ":'" o 00 <::> ~ ; ~ ~ ~ ~ o <::> 0 0 8 ":" o -.,., 00 ~ ~ ~ ~ o 000 o o 0 g ~G<'I~. Mg;;:<'1 V) 8 g q-. ":" r:-- ~ 1- "r ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ,.., M o o 000 <::> <::> .....o '"...... -M .0 FilZ ..... 13-337 R.O. India/ND/88 90 (10) Galicba: Average requirement of 4.3 kgs. The polyester woollen yarn is used by 13 house of Deshi Woollen yarn and 1.3 kgs. of holds and they procure it from Bikaner, Ludhiana, cotton yarn is used while about 820 gms. Bombay. Tcrriwoollen yarn from Bombay, while of Pankanda and 233 gms. of colour is Pankandas are purchased from Ratiya, Junagadb consumed. The material is consumed all and Adityana. Colour and J ari thread is brought the year round. mainly from Porbandar. Small quality is also pur chased from Madhavpur. But majority purchase is ( 11) Chaddar Cotton: Cotton yarn of 1.5 kgs. is in Ratiya itself. While Alum, wheat flour are pur utilised. This is mainly consumed in sum- chased locally. mer season. (12) Asan,iya: The Deshi woollen yarn of 225 In Bhujodi a person from Barmer has started gros. 50 gros. of cotton yarn and 60 gros. selling the raw-material in Bhujodi itself and mostly of Pankanda are utilised. The consumption th:' purchase is made from him. However, one of these items is throughout th~ year. household each procures it from Barmer in Rajasthan, Jalandhar, Ludhiana, Amritsar in Punjab, Jamnagar, (13) Maflar: About 100 gms. of Deshi woollen Bhuiodi in Gujarat. They procure white and coloured yarn and 50 gms. of Pankanda are con woollen yarn, Deshi and Marina woollen yarn are sumed. The use of these material is done purchased from the dealer in Bhujodi village. How all the year round. ever, Deshi and Marina woollen yarn is purchased by 9 and 5 households respectively from Barmer. Since the raw material used in this craft is not While 1 household gets it from Bhuj and Jodhpur, locally available and has to be brought from various cotton yarn is procured from Bhuj. Polyester yarn is other places. The craftsmen of Chitarwada purchase brought from Barmer, Jalandhar, Ludhiana, and tlJe sheep wool from the Bharwad community who Amritsar. Dungras/Pankandas, Acid, Alum are bteed the sheep. As this community is roaming from brought from Bhuj. place to place, the craftsmen have to move from place to place for procuring it. The craftsmen face no problem in procuring the raw-material easily in winter season but have to pay As regards the procurement of raw materials more for it in off season. This is mainly due to and mode of transport and problem faced, it is shortage of finance. Similarly, these people also observed that the craftsmen of Chitarwada mostly feel that as State Transport does not allow to carry purchase their raw material from Chotila and woollen yarn in their bus services they have to bring SiIrendranagar. White wool is purchased by 7 house it by private traders which costs them more. holds from Kheda, 8 from Chotila and 10 from Siuendranagar, Black by 10 households from Ch otila , The following figures gives details about the one household each procures it from Botad, Sojitra, approximate cost of the raw-material used as re Khainbhat, Vinchhiya and 9 from other villages. ported by the craftsmen of the three centres. Parikanda are purchased from ChotHa Dhrangadhra. The cotton yarn and colours are brought from Wadh wan The approximate cost price of the raw-material used by the craftsmen of the three centres as narrated by them is as under: Thus the craftsmen of Chitarwada have close cbnnection with ChotHa, Surendranagar and Dhranga dhra for the procurement of raw-materials. Raw-material with its cost price : I. Cbitarwada : The wool is brought to Chitarwada by private transport as it is not connected with railways. The I. White wool Rs. 300 to 350 per 20 kg. problems faced by craftsmen are (i) regarding trans·· 2. Black wool. Rs. 400 to 600 per 20 kg. port. The transportation of wool is not permitted 3. Cotton yarn by the State transport bus services. Therefore they Rs. 30 per 20 kg. bave to transport it by private transport service and 4. Pankanda . Rs. 20 to 25 per 20 kg. Have to pay more. (ii) The craftsmen also face the 5. Colour Rs. 3 pe r tala financial problem. As due to lack of finance they cannot purchase more than required stock in the (i) Gulabi (Pink) Rs. 4 per tola season. (iii) for procurement of raw wool. they have (ii) Black Rs. 4 per tola tp move from place to place to procure it from (iii) Other colour Rs. 3 per tola Bharwads who are roaming with their sheep. 6. Dyeing charges Rs. 70 per chundadi In Ratiya 16 households are using Deshi woollen II. Ratiya : yarn. The Deshi woollen yarn is brought from Bikaner by 2 households, Barda by 8, Wadhwan by 1. Deshi wool yarn . Rs. 10 to 60 per kg. 9, Porbandar by 9, Savarkundla by 5, and Surendra 2. Terriwool Poly. yarn Rs. 110 to 120 per kg. :tagar by 1 household. One household each brings 3. Vilayati yarn it from Rajkot, Madhavpur, Keshod, Ludhiana and Rs. 70 to 80 per kg. ~otnbay. -~ ""I 4. Cotton yarn Rs. 30 to 40 per kg. 91 S. Jari . Rs. 25 per 2S gms. III. Bhujodi : 1. Deshi wool yarn. Rs. 50 to 60 per k$. 6. Pankanda Flour . Rs. 1 to 1 '5 per kg. 2. Marina wool yarn Rs. 120 to 140 per Jca. 7. Colours Rs. 4 per kg. 3. Cotton yarn Rs. 20 to 50 per kg. (i) Gulabi (Pink) Rs. 4 per tola 4. Jari thread . Rs. 72 per kg. (ii) Blue & Violate Rs. 4 per tola 5. Pankanda Rs. 1 to 1 '25 per .kg. (iii) Red, Black, Yellow Rs. 2 per tola 6. Acid. Rs. 10 per litre 8. Dyeing charges . Rs. 35 per chanadadi 7. Colour Rs. 20 to ZS p~ 10 ~. Now considering th·.) total rJ.W ill ttuill consumed during the month for prep.,ring various items by the craftsmen of three Centres, the following sta tement gives details. STATEMENT IV. 16 Total monthly consumption of Raw-material used by 20 households of Chitarwada Sr. Name of No. of Monthly comumption of raw material No. the items items (monthly Deshi Wool (in kg.) White Wool (in kg.) Black Wool (in kg.) Cotton Yarn (in kg.) produc ------ed) Kg. No. of No. of Kg. No. of No. of Kg. No. of No. of Kg. No. of No. of items house- items house- items house items house- holds holds holds holds consu consu COnsu consu med med med med 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1 Dhabla 62 77 23 7 109 34 12 18 5 2 1'500 1 1 2 Dhusla 15 18'500 7 5 3·500 3 2 17 7 4 A.P.R. 1 1 3 Tangalia 12 8·500 3 3 5 5 4 21·500 8 8 A.P.R. 1 1 4 Chundadi 18 14 6 6 21·500 9 8 7 3 2 5 Lobdi. 30 73 19 10 37·500 10 7 9'500 5 4 0 ·600 3 2 6 Charmalia 17 26'500 10 7 6 ·500 4 4 11 '500 6 6 A.P.R. 4 1 7 Galiyu 14 19 7 5 2 ·500 1 13'500 6 5 8 Kamli. 14 32·500 10 5 16·500 5 3 9 Kamal. 5 2'500 15·500 4 3 2 4 3 10 Shawl. 11 4 8 5 1·500 3 1 11 Asaniya 6 2 ·600 6 4 12 Mafiar 3 0'200 3 2 buantity of Raw 207278·300 103 12 219 78 13 100 44 12 2 ·100 4 3 material consumed 20 A.P.R. 4 4 for no. of items pro H.H. duced by no. of households. A.P.R.=As per requiremeol It is observed from the above figures that While considering consumption of WOOl in 20 households selected from Chitarwada Centre individual products, from the above statement used 278.300 kg. of Deshi wool for preparing following observation can be derived. 103 items, 219 kg. of white wool for 78 items, 100 kg. of black wool for 44 items and 2.100 kg. The major quantity of Deshi wool of 77 kIr. of cotton yarn for preparing 4 items are con by 7 hous~holds is used for preparing __ sumed during the month. As the households use phablas. Whi.le 73 kg. by 10 households for p'repar all the items or alternately more than one items, lllg 19 Lobdls, and for preparing 10 Kariili its number is repeated. But considering the 32.500 kg. by 5 households consumes it. ' exclusive use of one item it is found that 12 households use Deshi wool, 13 households white The white wool of 109 kg. by 12 households wool, 12 households black wool and 7 house for preparing 34 Dhablas, 37.500 kg. by 7 house holds cotton yarn. holds for weaving 10 Lobdi is used. 92 The black wool of 21.500 kg. by 8 house The general pattern of the use made by house holds for producing 8 items of Tangalias, 13,500 holds is given as under kg. by 5 households for 6 items of Galiya and 1. Deshi wool Use by 6 househok's 11.500 kg. by 6 households for preparing 6 Char malias is utilised. 2. White wool 1 .. 3. Deshi and white WGol 4. Deshi and black wool The cotton yarn is generally consumed as per requirement of the item produced 1.500 of 5. White and black wool 7 .. It by 1 household for preparing 1 Dhabla is used. 6. Deshi, White and 4 For weaving 3 Lobdis 0.600 kg. is used by 2 Bick wool households. Itt' Dhusla, Tangalia and Charmalia 20 it is used according to requirement. .. STATEMENT IV. 17 Total MOiltbly consumption of PaDkanda, Wheat Hour, and Colour CHITARWADA ._--_- Sl. Name of items No. of Monthly consumption of raw-materials No. items ------_------_"---- (monthly Pankanda Wheat Flour Colour produc------..------~- tion) Kg. No. of No. of Kg. No. of No. of Kg. No. of No. of items house- items house- items house- holds holds holds consu- consu- consu- med med med 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1. Dhabla 62 71 61 20 3 '858 62 20 2. DhusIa 15 12·500 15 10 0'500 1 1 1'140 15 10 3. Tangalia 12 14'500 12 11 A.P.R. 1 1 1 ·032 12 11 4. Chundadi 18 17 ·500 18 16 0'500 1 1 0·696 9 7 S. Lobdi 30 40·750 30 14 4·044 30 18 6. Charmalia . 17 15 17 14 0·500 1 1 1·386 17 14 A.P.R. 4 2 7. Galiyu 14 12·500 14 11 0·500 1 0'972 14 11 8. Kamli 14 16'250 14 6 0·864 14 6 9. Kamal 5 8·500 5 4 0'408 5 4 10. Shawl 11 5 11 6 0'500 2 2 0·720 11 6 11. AsaIliya 6 0·850 6 4 12- Maflar 3 0·150 3 2 Quantity of raw material 207 214·500 206 20 2·500 6 6 15·120 189 20 consumed for 110. of (20 House" A.P.R. 6 4 Items produced by no. holds) of households. A.P.R.=As per requirement. -Similarly following fact can be observed items and in Dhusla 1.140 kg. by 10 households from the above statements about use of Pankan for preparing 15 items is consumed. das, wheat flour and colour. The Pankandas of 71 kgs. by 20 house Wheat flo~ is used as per requirement or upto 500 gms. IS added in preparing sizing fluid holds is used in preparing 61 Dhablas. Next which is extracted trom Pankanda. comes Lobdis for which 40.750 kg. by 18 house holds for 30 items is consumed. While for !,he use of. Alum and Tamarmd is very small Chundadis 17.500 kg. by 16 households for quantIty according to the requirement and hence producing 18 items is utilised. not discussed here. The colour is mostly consumed in preparing Lobdi, Dhabla and Dhusla. In Lobdi 4.044 kg. The following statement gives the details by 18 households for producing 30 items, while about raw-material woollen yarn consumed by the for Dhablas 3.858 kg. by 20 households for 62 20 selected households of Ratiya village. 93 1'1- V'> N o M o o <;1 o cc..... t..... - - 8 '0 8 o '0 .... \Q V'>..... -.... M..... -N -.... o...... .... ...... '<1' V'> 00 s:; op ""~ b~ V'> 00 .... MO:q;g '" N '" ~~.a,g ":;I 0- ~ ·0 .... C::Sz 94 The above statement indicates that in Ratiya for 20 Patiya and 33.500 kg. by 7 Deahi wool mainly Deshi woollen yarn of 299.850 households for 23 Kamal is made. kg. used by 20 households for preparing 203 Next comes Vilayati woollen yarn of items, 5.500 kg. of polyster woollen yarn by 2 16.500 kg. by 4 households by 11 households for 5 items of Dhabla and Kamli, items. Terriwoollen yarn by 1 household for 2 items of Dhabla, Kashmiri woollen yarn of 3 kg. by The use of polyster woollen yarn and terri 1 household, Vilayati woollen yarn of 16.500 kg. woollen yarn and Kashmiri woollen yarn is also by 4 households for 11 items, are consumed made. The use of J ari thread of 1.093 kg. is during the month. The cotton yarn of 0.200 kg. done by 9 hou$ehold for preparing 28 items. by 1 household for 2 shawls is used. The general pattern of the use made by house- The Jan thread is exclusively used by the hold is given as under:- craftsmen of Ratiya village for decorating the items. 9 households consume 1.093 kg. of Jari (1) Deshi wool used by . . 14 households thread for preparing 28 items. While 2 house holds use this item according to requirement in (2) Deshi and viJayati used by. . 3 households two items. The number of households given above indicate the exclusive users of the raw (3) Deshi and polyster yarn used by • 1 household material. Generally each household use more (4) Deshi, Vilayati and Kashmiri used by 1 household than one raw material for preparing their products. (5) Deshi, Polyester and terriwool used by 1 household The itemwise consumption of raw material is 20 as under: Major consumption of Deshl woollen yarn of The following statement gives details about 84 kg. by 12 households for 41 Dhab use of Pankanda, Wheat flour, and colour dpne las, 47 kg. by 11 households for 28 'by the 20 selected households of craftsmen of Kachchhikoras, 36 kg. by 8 households Ratiya Village. STATEMENT IV. 19 Monthly CODSUQIption of Pankanda, Wbeat flour and Colour RATIYA Sl. Namuofitem No. of Monthly consumption of raw-material No. items (monthly Pankanda Wheat Flour Colour produc------_--- - tion) In kt;. No. of No. of In kg. No. of No. of In kg. No. of No. of items house- items house- items house- holds holds holds- consu- consu- consu- med med med 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 Dbablas 41 57'300 41 12 0·200 2 1 ·632 41 12 2 Kachcbhi tora 35 43 35 13 1 '704 35 13 3 Dhuala 25 16·850 23 12 1 2 0·576 10 5 4 Kamal 25 29 25 9 1 ·752 25 9 S Kamali 28 23'800 28 11 0'400 4 2 2'724 24 9 6 Shawl 36 10'750 27 12 3·600 9 3 0'708 13 6 7 Hetha 12 19 12 5 0·534 12 5 8 Patiya 21 25 21 9 0·348 21 9 ------~~------~------~--~------Total 223 22~'700 212 20 5 ·200 17 5 9·978 181 20 (20 house- holds) The Pankanda of 224.700 kgs. and colour of 9.978 kg. is used by 20 hou~eholds for sizing 212 ano 181 items respectively. A little quantity of wheat flour is also used for preparing Sizing liquid. The Pankandas are mostly consumed in Dha bIas and Kachchhi koras. While colour is consumed in K.amalis. The following statement IV. 20 gives details, about raw material used by 20 households of Bhujodi Village. 95 .... 00 - -... o g 11'\ g on ':' '0 M o o \0 ...... 8 I o i M t o - .... o 00 - o 11'\ "9 t.., "...... 0\...... M \0 o 0\ \CJ ... o ~ ~ ...... M .... o -...... 11'\ -on -o N o...... -N 96 The above statement indicates that in Bhu The use of Polyester woollen yarn of 9.500 jodi Deshi woollen yarn of 363.350 kg. for pre kg. for preparing 19 Dhablas is utilised by 5 paring 366 items, Marina woollen yarn of 67 kg. households. 30 shawls 2 kg. is used by 2 house for 103 items, 37.650 of coloured woolien yarn holds. for 55 items is consumed. Number of house holds who exclusively consumed this material The cotton yarn of 23.150 kg. by 11 are 19, 6, 5, 7 respectively. Polyester woollen yarn households is used for 63 Shetranji. 22.500 kg. of 11.500 kgs. for preparing 49 items is used by by 1 household for 15 Chadders 2.500 kg. for 7 households. Similarly, cotton yarn of 53,400 5 Dhablas by 1 household is consumed. One kg. for preparing 111 items by 11 households household utilised 750 grams for 15 shawls. is utilised. • The general pattern of consumption of woollen yarn made by 20 households is as under:- Deshi woollen yarn of 101.500 is used by 1. Deshi wooJlen yarn used by 13 households for preparing 64 Dhablas, 101.250 9 households kg. by 11 households for preparing 66 Shetranjis. 2. Deshi and coloured woollen yarn used by 1 In shawls 46.500 kg. for preparing 93 items is 0 ' . Deshl and polyester used by 1 used by 9 households. " 4. Deshl and Marina 2 " 5. Oeshl, coloured and polyester used by 2 .. Marina woollen yarn is mainly consumed in 6. Deshl, Marina Bnd polyester used by 3 preparing shawls, Dhabla and Shetranji for 82 .. shawls 37.500 kg. by 6 households 16, Dhablas 22 7, Deshi, Marina, coloured polyester wool- kg. by 4 households and 5 Shetranji 7.500 kg. by 1 lenyarn used by .. household is consumed. The coloured woollen yarn 8. Coloured woollen yarn used by of 20 kg. for 10 Shetranjis are used by 1 household. " while for 45 shawls 17.650 kg. by 4 households is 20 used. STATEMENT IV. 21 Monthly consumption of Pankandas/Dungra, wheat flour and colour (done by 20 craftsmen) of Bhujodi village S1. Name of No. of Monthly consumption of raw-material No. item items ------~ --~------(monthly Pankllnda Wheat Flour Colour Acid produc------~---- _- ----~__.------tion) In Kg. No. of No. of In Kg, No. of No. of In Kg. No. of No. of In Kg. No. of No. of items house- items house- items house- items house. holds holds holds holds Con- con- con- con- sumed sumed sumed sumed 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Dhabla . 64 57·350 64 13 3·183 54 11 A.P.R. 22 5 Ludki 20 17'500 20 2 3 Ghedva 15 1 '500 15 1 4 Bagido . 6 6 6 0·600 6 5 Dhabli 63 20 63 5 1 ·800 18 2 0·390 18 2 6 Khati 4 2 4 2 0·400 4 2 7 Shawls. 180 48'100 176 15 1 ·335 57 7 A.P.R. 5 8 Shetranji 66 40'500 66 12 0'500 5 2'650 28 8 A.P.R. 2 9 Galicba 4 4'100 5 5 0'700 3 3 10 Cbaddar 15 11 Asaniya 20 1'250 20 2 11 Maftar . 10 0·500 10 - -- - .,_ 467 198'800 449 20 3·300 33 9 8·258 160 16 A.P.R. 29 5 (20 Households) A.P.R. =As Per Requirement. 97 The above figures indicate that maximum The weaving the weavers of Chitarwada: aft(f Pankandas of 57.350 kg. for preparing 64 Dhab Ratiya they use traditional traddle looms only, las are used by 13 households. The next comes while in Bhujodi they also use fly shuttle looms. shawls where 48.100 kg. for preparing 176 items are consumed by 15 households. For 66 She The details of process carried out is given tranjis 40.500 kg. is used by 12 households. below. Process Chart The colour of 3.183 kg. is also used by 11 households in preparing 54 Dhablas, 1.335 Chitarrwada Ratiya kg. for producing 57 shawls is consumed, by 7 [ households. While for manufacturing 28 Shetran Raw wool . Bhujodi jis 2.650 kg. is utilised by 8 households. cIeaJing of wool ' 1 • The use of acid is done as per requirement in SIlve makIng. the process of dyeing. SpmnIng· r. R ea dy rna d0 mill yarn ~ ______I 4.5 Process and technique \ I In manufacturing these different items the Winding craftsmen is required to pedorm various processes (Skein making) and techniques, the different process they carryout I from beginning to end by three centres are given Warp making below;- I STATEMENT IV. 22 I Different processes carried out in the three centres Dyeing Sizing Preparmg . lor'" 1 weaVIng• Carried out by the I craftsmen of Threading the reed Pro;(!ss J Chitar- Ratiya Bhujodi Threading the heeide wada through the eye I Tieing the warp to weavers 2 3 4 beam I Tieing the warp to Ratched 1. Cle'1.ning of wool and passing the rope 2. C 1rding of wool arround the port to the arm break near the 3. Slive making we wers beam 4. Spinning the yarn Pulling the pick up sticks between warp yarns S. Winding the thread I. 6. Preparation of warp Weavmg 7. Dyeing of yarn Moving the 1 traddle and passing the shuttle carrying 8. Sizing the warp the weft thro ugh the open " shed 9. Tieing of warp I Tightening the welf by 10. Threading the reed . " moving the beater to and 11. Inserting the pickup sticks from betw~en the warp. Inserting the loose weft 12. Tieing the wart: to the beam within the warps to form designs I 13. Weaving Repeatation of weaving 14. (i) with traditional looms process (ii) with fly shuttle looms " In the first place the raw wool is sorted out and other unwanted materials which has adher ed to the wool removed by hand to clean it. From above it will be noticed that first 4 Then the carding is done. In the past this pro process are carried out by the craftsmen of cess was done by the pinjaras (male carder of Chitanvada village only, because they do not use cotton) who were doing it with the help of ready made woollen yarn. They spin their yarn bow (Kaman). At present this process is carried themselves on spinning wheel, while rest of the out with the help of the carding machine which process are carried out by all the craftsmen of the is available at Surendranagar. The weavers of three centres. the Chitarwada village go to Surendranagar for 14-337 R.G. India/ND/88 98 carding of their wool. After the wool is clean stretches or breaks, but runs easily through the ed up a small slives are prepared by hand. Th:is finger and winds evenly around the pegs. One process is· carried out by ladies and old persons m has to be careful not to stretch woollen yarn the households. The next process is spinning of in making warp since when released from peg, wool. The spinning is done by hand on. a the woollen yarn will spring back to its normal traditional spinning wheel. This process is earned tension and warp will turn to be shorter than out in Chitarwada village only. The craftsmen of was intended. The removing of yarn from the Ratiya and Bhujodi village used ready made spickes or peg is bit tricky. The yarn has to yarn and mill spun yarn purchased from other be removed without breaking any of it (Fig. 7,8,9). places. They use the spinning wheel only for twisting and winding the yarn. The warp is then ready for sizing locally known as "Pan". The required length of the The spinning wheel used in Chitarwada is thread is dyed in maroon red colour which will simple and of rough in style, while in Ratiya be used in the border of the blanket or shawl. and Bhujodi they are slightly well finished hav The sizing fluid is made of pankanda which are ing some carving on it they use it for winding crushed and mixed in the water. Some times purpose only. The spindle is fixed to the lower few drops of Kerosene is added to give a smooth part of the spinning wheel. This is turned by effect to the fluied. This method is used in a cord (String) passing over a rougbly shaped Chitarwada village only. While in Ratiya and driving wheel (Fig. 1). The spinner t<:kes a Bhujodi village wheat flour is also used in place of small quantity of raw wool a sliver in his left Pankanda or is used alongwith Pankanda. and connects it to the point of the spindle. The wheel is moved with right hand and slowly moves The warp is stretched out in open between two his left hand away from the spindle. The spinner poles or Ghodis or 'Y' shaped wooden parts. The then allows the spun yarn to coil on the mov sticks are inserted between the stretched yarn at ing spindle. Then the other sliver is put up on a convenient distance to keep the thread separate the spindle for splicing and start spinning again so that sizing fluid reaches to each thread. The as per the process explained above. The process sizing fluid is then uniformly applied to the continues till the spindle is fully wrapped up. The warp thread with the help of brush locally known spun yarn is then wrapped on small reel which as 'Kuchada' or 'Kangas'. The brush is made is locally known as falka. When this reel is fully from roots of the shrubs. These roots are fixed in wrapped up the thread is taken on bigger reel-falka. a wooden handle. (Fig. 13). The warp when dried out is removed from The next step is to prepare the warp. The one end rolled round. Upto this process the length of the warp is determined according to ladies help their counter part of carry out the the length of the items are to be woven. . The process themselves also. But weaving part which length of the warp is kept slightly more than now commence is mainly carried out mostly by male the length of the product. In Chitarwada and members only (Plate XXX). Ratiya five long iron spickes are fixed on the ground at a distance of about 10 feet from each The sized yarn is fastened to the weavers other in square position. The fifth one is fixed beam. The thread of the warp are drawn near the first one. This process is carried out in thrOll!~h the dents--?ivision of the reed. This pro an open space either in a open chawk or space cess IS called slaymg. The reed is then fixed to available near the house or near by it. the beater locally known as "Hatho". The reed is similar in apperance of a comb that is edg The warp is prepared by winding the yarn on ed at the top and bottom by a round bar. The re~d the spickes. A person standing in centre holds or wooden strips which is known as teeth are set a "Tarani" a five feet long stick fixed with a at almost any space per inch that one may desires. "U" shape huck in one hand ~nd a reel "Falka" The space between these teeth is known as dents. in other hand moves inside the square, winding the thread on these spickes in the rotary way with The number of dents in a reed can easily the help of "Tarani". (Fig. 10). be known by measuring its length. The number The craftsmen of Bhujodi village practise of dents is o~e it;tch multiplied by the length of the reed, WIll gIVe the number of dents in slightly different techniques preparing the warp. the whole reed. The purpose of the reed is They fixed the wooden pig of 8" to 10" in length in the wall and floor of the varandah or room to keep each warp threads evenly spaced dur depending upon the availability of the space. ing the weaving process. Then heddles are affix There are· approximately 16 pegs in a warping ed and alternate thread is passed through the frame. Those craftsmen who can afford are eye o~ loop. He~dle is a threading device made of stnnzs or tWIsted nylone strings ll~ed to hold using a warping frame. The frame of 8' x 4' size is prepared from 4" x 1 t" wooden planks. the warp thread is required position for each On this frame the 16 wooden pegs are fixed at row of weaving. It is made of with a loop an equidistance. A knotted loop is slip around or a start at. each end which is known as eye 1st peg and then the thread is drawn across or 100? (FIg.] 7). . Through this the warp from peg to peg. So that it is neither so loose thread IS passed accordmg to predetermined pattern that it shedes off the peg n9t so tight that it to turn the warp foundation for a web. One set of heddle is attached to the upper threads and other 99 one to lower threads. These heddles are attach In Cbitarwada and Ratiya villages treddle loomi ed to treddles. These heddles are suspended in are used and they are traditional and with through ~uch a way that when one heddle is depressed with in shuttle type. Only one craftsman in Ratiya has the help of treddle the other heddle automatically started using fly shuttle loom on experitnental basis. raised by the bar locally known as galiyana, from While in Bhujodi, the same craftsmen have started which they are suspended. This is similar to the fly shuttle looms. A few old craftsmen are still use see-saw way. Thus the original upper and lower traditional traddle looms. Five leading craftsmen of threads automatically change placed creating shed Bhujodi are using fly shuttle looms of 120" width (open space). which is latest introduction in this fi~ld.. At this juncture the shuttle carrying the weft, which is wrapped on the bobin (locally known as "Dala") is passed through the open shed After the weaving is over the items are removed from left t_o right. This is done just enough from the weavers beam. The items which are woven to curl, smoothly around the left hand selvedge in two parts are then stitched together by coloured thread. The weft wrapped on the bobin is woollen yarn which forms a colourful design. The moisten before it placed in the shuttle. Next the stitching process is known as Khilawat in local beater "Ratho" is moved forward and back language. The threads at loose ends are also tied ward so that the thread of the weft is closely with coloured woollen yam forming pattern ,designs. placed in the position tightly. The shed is The process is called 'Chhedabandhwa'. changed by raising the front raw of the heddle and beaten back. When the front raw of the heddle is up the shuttle is passed through the shed The main process involved is making of slives, from right to left and the beater "Ratho" is mov warp making and weaving. The details of persons ed again. The process is repeatedly carried out. who performed these processes in these centres are Thus, the weaving process continues. presented in Statement-IV.23. STATEMENT IV. 23 Nature of work and persons who (process) performed it Nature of work Performed by Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi Skein} Warp Weaving Skein/ WarD Weaving Skein; Warp Weaving slive making slive makIng slive making making making making 1 2 3 4 S 6 7 8 9 10 1. Self 17 18 20 14 20 15 19 2. Wife 18 14 1 9 20 3. Son 10 15 10 9 12 6 11 4. Son's wife 8 4 3 7 5. Mother 3 2 2 6. Father 1 1 7. Daughter 2 1 8 8 8. Sister. 1 9. Brother 1 1 1 2 1 1 10. Brother's wife 1 1 1 11. Brother'S son 2 1 2 12. Brother's SOT'S wife 2 1 1 13. Brother's daughter 2 14. Sons's son 1 The above statement indicates that slive/skein by male members. All the 20 head of households maki~g process car~ied out in ~hitarn:ada village only of Chitarwada and Ratiya village each are doing and SImilarly weavmg process IS earned out by male weaving work. In Bhujodi, only one head of house members only except one case in Cbitarwada where hold do other work than weaving as this household a lady is doing this work. As the weaving process has recently started this craft. Formerly, he was en requires more strength and continuous long hours of g,'~l'd in agricultural activities. In the three centres, setting for work. Therefore, it is generally carried out all the male memblll_S, i.e., son, father brotner's son, 100 son's son, all are doing warp making and weaving In this craft main process involved is spinning, work. It is observed that the female members carry warp making and weaving. The tools and implements out the cleaqing of wool, carding slive/skein making in this process is required by all the three centres. spinning, s~g, dyeing, etc., but other members also These are required for preparing all the items pro carry out these processes. The 14 wives in Chitar duced by three centres. wada 9 in Ratiya an~ 20 in Bhujodi are doing warp making. In Chitarwada all the implements used are simple In Chitarwada all male members such as Son, and traditional one. Moreover, spinning is done by Brother, Brother~$ sons are doing warp making and them and so the spinning wheel is used for spinning weaving work. While females, Wife, Son's wife are the yarn. doing skein/slive 1llaking and warp making only. Brother's daugpJ. is doing slive/skein making. In In Ratiya the implements are slightly improved. Ratiya all male members i.e., Son, Brother, Brother's The spinning wheel is used to twist the two or more son are doing both the processes while, females, i.e., yarn together to form thicker yarn. One household wife, son's wife, mother, daughter, sister, brother's is using winding wheel prepared from gear wheels. sons wife are doing warp making. In Bhujodi village both traditional looms and While in Bhujodi also male members son, father, fly shuttle looms are used. brother, son's son are doing warp making and weav ing. The female members wife, son's wife, daughter, The details of the tools used is given below : brother's wife, are preparing warp only. (1) Spinning wheel: locally called as Charkha. Tools and implements used in manufacturing the is used for spinning the yarn from the raw items are given below : sheep wool. (2) Spindle (Taraq): is attached to the spiun~ S1. Tool & implement Local name Process in ing wheel on which the spun yarn is carried No. which it is on it during spinning process. used (3) Reels: falka is used to wend the spun yarn 1 Spinning wheel Charkha 1 of sufficient length to form loops. J Spinning 2, Spendle Taraq ( 4) Iron peg/wooden peg: of 3!-" to 4" are pierced in the ground at a convenient dis 3 Reel Falka, Firki, Pirot tance from one another on which yam is 4 Iron peg/Iron spickes Khilo encircled over it. 5 Wooden peg . Khilo Warp (5) Winding stick (Tarani): wooden stick of making 5 feet long with a U shaped hook is fixed at 6 Wooden stick with Huck Tarani (Winding stick) one end. It is used while preparing the warp. 7 Sizing Brush . KuchadojKangas } (6) Sizing Brush: Locally known as Kuchado/ Kanges is prepared from roots of a brush 8 Y shaped wooden poles/ Ghodi/Khuto Sizing and used for spreading the sizing fluid even wooden part lyon all the warp yarns. Parts of the loom : (7) Y shaped wooden poles (Ghodi) : used for 9 Weaver beam Tar/Tor tied the warp for sizing. 10 Beater/Handle Hatho 1 (8) Weavers beam.' called as Tar/Tor, wovell 11 Shuttle Kanthlo/Nalo part is tied on it. 12 Babin Dala (9) Beater/Handle: Hatho is used to set the woven weft in light portion. 13 Bredth stretcher Panos 14 Reed Fani (10) Shuttle: Kanthlo/Nalo is used through the weft between the warps. 15 Heddle . Rash (11) Babin (Dala): on which the weft is coilled 16 Shed sticks Salaka and is fixed in the shuttle. 17 Pick up sticks Patiya (12) Dirstii-panas Breadth stretcher: keeps the 18 TraddlejPaddle Pavadi breadth of the woven fabric stretched. 19 Ratchet Treddle Dharani I (13) Reed: Fani is used to keep each warp in 20 Ratchet post . Khilo (Rashido) j position. . I 21 Pawal post KhJ10 J (14) Heddle: Moves the warp up and down to make a space for inserting the weft. 101 PLATE-XXV 4 ~======~10 12 f.t'!i~)j) J5 l4 IS 17 Tools and Implements 1. Spinning wheel, 2-3. Spinning wheel used for l',;inding warp-Ratiya, 4. Spinning wheel used as winding wheel at Bhlljodi, 5. Winding wheel-Falka, 6. Panas (breadth stretcher), 7. Wooden peg, 8. [roil peg, 9. Warpillg frame, 10. Tanii-- warapil1g ~Iick, 1/. Y s/tape stand, 12. Sizing brush, 13. Bobin, 14. Bobill, 15. SIMtle, 16. Reed, ,n. Heddle. 102 PLATE-XXVI Traditional Loom Fly shuttle loom 103 (15) Shed sticks: Salaka-separates the warps. different designs are made by making slight modifi cation and change according to the draft of the designs ( 16) Pickup sticks.' separates warp for forming to be incorporated in each item of production. designs. (17) TraddlelPaddles.' used for moving the hed In blanket and shawls the borders are woven of dIe. crimsion and maroon red colour and the motifs are woven with different colours in the tabby which is (18) Ratched Traddle: Dharani-the warp is tied white. In chundadi the designs are woven at two down on the rod. ends "Chheda" with a cotton and woollewthreads and border is not kept. Only plain ta1?by is woven. On C19) Ratched post Khilo: on whicb the Dharani completion of the weaving, the chun@adi is sent for is tied down. dyeing to dyer "Rangati". He carries 'out tie and dye process in two or more colours or more colour com (20) Pawal post,' the Rachet traddle-Dharani binations as per order given. As the cotton yarns do rope is brought to the weavers hand after not absorb woollen dyes it remains white while white passing it over the Ratchet post. woollen tabby get dyed in colourful designs. This gives a distinct look to Chundadi. The statement given below shows the use of tools and technique in tbe three centres. After the weaving of Dhabla, Blanket, Shawls, etc., is completed it is removed from the looms. The STATEMENT IV.24 ends (Chheda) of Dhabla, are tied down with beauti ful designs. They call this process as "Chheda Use of tools and implements by number of households bandhava". This is done with different coloured woollen threads with the heIp of card and strings. This addes good look to the finished product and does not allow the weft to loose out during the use. Name of village Use of traditional tools Introduc ------~---tion of new This process is a recent addition. Tools Tools Tools tools Fly used for used for used for shuttle spinning warp weaving looms In Chitarwada village, it is foiind that all tech making looms niques are carried out, i.e., from spinning of the wool to the Chheda bandhava is done in most traditional manner. They use traditional designs and primary Chitarwada . 20 20 20 colours. .,',' "'"'~l Ratiya 20 20 Bhujodi 20 20 In Ratiya the spinning process is not carried out 9* as they are using the ready made or mill made woollen yarn. These yam comes in the form of skein, banks "'11 households are using traditional looms also. or cone. They even use the terrywool or polyster blended yarn. As thy mill made yarn is thin, the The above statement indicates that in Chitarwada craftsmen twist two or three yarn together on the and Ratiya all the 40 households are using the tradi spinning (which is used as a winding wheel) wheel. Thus, the yarn is made suitable for hand weaving tional tools while in Bhujodi 9 households have start process. ed using fly shuttle looms. It was informed that the use of fly shuttle looms was started in 1960-61, when Shri Ramir Mandan who had tak~n training during The rest of the process from warp making to the training workshop has introduced it in Bhujodi weaving, is similar to that of Chitarwada. The crafts and then other households gradually started using it. men of Ratiya viIIage use wheat flour alone or along As it gives more production, however, 11 households with Pankanda for preparing the sizing fluid. They use traditional looms. also use modern colour shades in their designs. They are using the ready made mill yam available in various 4.6 Details of Designs colours. Most of the designs are carried out during the weaving process by using four hoddies which Weaving of Designs-The designs are inserted help in forming the designs during the weaving pro with the help of pick-up-stick locally known as patiya cess. Only few motifs and designs are inserted with or salaka, during the the weaving process. According to a loose weft by hand While weaving. the draft of the designs the threads of the warps are calculated and the pick-up-sticks is inserted between the An improved spinning wheel is useo for winding upper and lower thread. This is done to separate the 1)urpose. The mechanical device i.e. gear wheel is used thread according to the formation of the designs. The in place of traditional wooden spinning wheel. This colour thread is passed through the calculated thread sh?ws t1,.at tl-te ~raftsn::en have started thinking of with the help of hand, or a small stick. The thread usmg the mechamcally Improved tools wbich save is inserted at places where designs commence. After their time and energy (labour). This implement was this, the shuttle is passed through the open shed and purchased from Mangrol of JUnagadh district and heater is moved to and fro to tight up the weft. The SaYar Kundla of Bhavnagar district in 1979. 104 PLA TE-- XXVII Spinning process J " ' ,,\~> '. ..,/.: ~~~* : , .··~i~,- ~· Winding process 105 PL4TB-XXVll1.:. _ _ '"':i. Warp making-Chitarwada - --: - - Warp making-Bhujodi l5-337 R.O. lndia/ND/88 lOG PLATE-XXIX Sizing process Dyeing process i07 .PLATE-xxX ..., --l Inserting designs Wea!'_ing process 108 PLATE-XXXi Stitching the two parts of the Blanket (Sandha Karkva) 109 The lise of niill made yarn has replaced the iniH:Kiuced by these craftsmen to elirich design richess hand spun yarn. This is because of high cost .of to make it more attractive. labour on band spinning, roughness of yarn involved ift Jrllud spinning. Some of the traditional designs such 811 Derdi, Patra, Dora, Deri, Ambo, Koroliya, Sita Madhi, eft., The mill spun such as blended yarn, terrywool arc still woven by the craftsmen of Chitanvada_ an<1 and polyster blended woollen yam are of fine quality Ratiya. The Chokhta, Uchetia, Navdhari, Navkukadi, and give a fine smoothness to their finished proo\J.tl:. Jotar, Jhad, etc., were gradually introduced as and Similarly, they get a variety of colours in these ready when the craftsmen come across some designs, The mad~ yarn which saves their time and labour in dye Mor, "ful, Butti Button; Dhajara (Dhajli),· Vintan ing ai'S'6. The craftsmen have started using the golden (Plane), Bungalow, etc., are the recent introd\lction. thread jari which is made from metallised plastic. This . The craftsmen of Bhujodi are weavqrfjacquartl is cheaper than real gold thread 'Jari', but gives a good. and rich look to the finished product. One type designs. They have done this by using four or of the craftsmen has recently installed a fly shuttle more heddles which is much more speedy as the loom and other has installed vertical looms for weav designs are formed durirtg the weaving process. This ing carpet. This is a latest addition in the village. consumes less time and gives good finish to the final In Bhujodi all craftsmen except one use fly shut product. The Chitarwada and Ratiya weavers use a tle looms locally known as 'Fatka shal', (One crafts loose weft yarn which is inserted between the .waq> man is still using old traditional loom). by hand according to designs. This consumes more time. . The associat~n Of ,any myths or legebds with They also use four heddles instead of two for designs is not known, as the traditional designs are forming the designs during the weaving process. Few heriditary and so they have been pa~sed on tiy otte motifs are inserted with a loose weft with hand while generation to other. Therefore, the myth or legend weaving. The y use Marina woollen yarn _ which is if any· associated with designs is forgotten fu due mill made and is of finer quality than other woollen course. The weaving process is carried ou.t mostly yam except pashmina wool. The pashm.iJ;ta wool is available in Kashmir only. The craftsmen produce by male members. Only a lone female member car woven designs which are done by moving and adjust rying out weaving process in -Ratiya village, Which is ing the pick-up-stick and heddles according t.? the an exceptional one. The designing work is carried OOt by the mate mert1ref§. drafts of de~gns. Only few motifs are inserted by hand during the weaving process. Thus, most of the The use of Mor-Peacock, the Butti and Ful designs are of Jacquard type. These designs are (Flower) is '9'One in most 6f the articles in Chitatwada quite different from the designs prepared by the crafts and Ratiya v--tUage. In Bhujjodi, use of other motifs men of Chitarwada village. This gives them higher is also Seen in the blanket Which are specially prepar production than Chitarwada and Ratiya villages. ed. Most of the designs are done during the weav In recent years the craftsmen of Bhujodi village ing process like pafta and otlier geometrical folins. have started weaving of woollen and cotton carpets and The designs are used to make the item attractive Galichas. This is much more lucrative job than weav and to make it easily saleable. The designs m.btivlftes ing of traditional- blanket and· shawls, as they get the purchaser and induces him to purchase it. ' Thus more remuneration from this item. attractive designs are used as a sale motivation. The designs are incorporated during the last 3 The use of mill made yarn has changed the pat decades. It will be observed that the craftsmen of tern of the woven items considerably. In Chitarwada Chitarwada and Ratiya village are using few similar one will find that traditional designs and colours are de¥.s. These designs and motifs are used in ~t>st used. While in Ratiya it is different. The yam. of the items they produce. The craftsmen of Cfiltar of various coloured shade are available from mills and wada village are pUrely a traditional worker, Who so various shades of blanket, shaWls an.d other items has adhered to the traditional methods and techniques. are prepared which definately gives a good look to They still insert the designs by hand, i.e., they insert finished product. the weft portion by hand between the warp to form a particular design. This consumes considerable time The Bhujodi craftsmen are using the ready made and labour, but have a unique effect to the fihished yarn brought from Barmer and other places. They items. are using Marina wool which is slightly costly but is much more smooth and of fine c9unt which give the In Ratiya village the craftsmen have inserted the finished product a good and bright look. designs with the help of more heddles. The designs are found during the weavirig process and 'only few The details of different motifs used in the designs motifs are inserted by hand. Thus, less time is con and the items in which they are used is given in the sumed in forming the designs. The jari thread is also chart below : 110 STATEMBNT IV. 2~ Traditional aDd new d __ SI. ,1.. Item Deaign New Designs Usod.mc. No. CIHTARWADA 1. Dhabla Derdi, Mor, Cholchta, Uchetia. Dakla, Patara, Patra, Sankali, Dera. Mor, Chochati, S ~ Ladva, Smdhani, Navdhari, Navkukdi, Dhabagra (Dhavj), RAvia. SaBoniya, Fut, Dhaja rn Jotar, Parali, Jhad. 3 yoafI 2. Chatptaliya. Sankalo, Hanwadi, Dori, Mor, Piyali, Ambo, Poilev, Chhido, Ran- duja, Sita Madhi, Bungalow, Tawar, Karoliya, Moter, Viman, Kanga, Daliya, Rudadiya, Navdharim, Pudi, Gudo, Patra, .JhDndo, Jhad. 3. Tangalio Palav, More, Deri, Hahavadi, Sanklo, Ambo, Rudardio, Karolio, Cheldo, Batton, Pathra, Navdhari, Sita Madhi. 4. Galiya Mor, Ladva, Sakali, Patra, Savla, Deval, Motra, Navkusbi, Cho khat, Dhajagara, Kangri, Dordi, Ravala. S. Kamli Derdi, Dora, Nawdhari, Vankia, Uchelia, Dhakla, Chokhat, Jotar, Mot, Sandhia, Ladva. 6. Lobdi Dardi, Dora, Navdhari, Vanlda. Uchaha. Sakali, Dhakla, DnaI chat. Mor. Ladva. Patra. Mandit. loter, Ihad. 7. Kamal Dota. Dordi, Patra. Dakla, Uchetia, Chokhatha, Mor, Sekali, Dhaja gra, Ladva, RavIa, Navdhari, Navkundi, Vakia. 8. Chundadi Derdi, Mor, Sokal, Chowla, Dakala, Ladva, Navdhari, K8.llari, AMbo, Patara, Sosavadu, Fataltiya. 9. Dhusala Chedo, Randhiyu, Mor, Deri, Sita-Madhi, Vi man. Ambo, Kanll'i, Hadavadi. Pipali, Navdharj, Dora, Patara, Butt~R. RATIYA 1. Dhabla Dori, Butti, Derdi, N, Fatakia, K.an Jotar, Sandhiya, Ghadiyal. Mor, Pul, Ghadi Jhad, Ambo, Khajuro, Chokhata, Virna, Ladllva, Akllaro (letters) yal, )had, Vav, Let ters, Bangalow,Viman 2. Kamli Dori, Butti, Dordi, Ful, Fat::lkia, lCan, Jotar, Ghadial, Jhad, Ambo, Pul, Vel, Mor, Jhad, 12 years Shhali, Button, Dhakhta, Vel. iandiya, AMbo 3. Shawl Thrikon, Derdi, Ladva, Chandaliya, Golful, Vav-Kuvo, Mor Allo prepared plain shawls. 4. Kachchhi Kora and Mor. Ambo. Kan, Ful, Sandhia. (Sandha li), Falakia. Butti. lotar, Pul, Sandbani. Oha 8 years Betha Viman, Doro, Ladva, Ghodiya, Dhakla. Bhamri. Fol, Vav. dial, Vav, Bhamari, 2 yoars letters. Mor OWl' a buildine S. Dhusa Checks of two or three colour. 6. Patiya Butti, Fulada, Patti, Kan Derdi. Dakhala, Sendhiya, lotar. 1ltad, Mor, Viman Viman, Ladva, Mor, Ghadiyal 7. Kali Kamal Dutti, Dhakhata, Derdi, Sandhiya, 10tar, Mor, Put, Ambo, Ladva. Dori, Fatakia. BRUJODI 1. Dhabla Satmani, Dhungalia, Hatadi. Dabal, Vankia, Pupati, Maehhav, Popat StolG Dhukali, Chhodari, Patta Laria, Patta, DUngari, Popata Dholki, yean 2. S'.lawl Doshi and Ma- Satkhani, Dhukali, Latha, Machchar. Dhungla, Lahana, Chbadari, Pankh, rinaShawl Hadki, Dhari, Chomakha, Vankia. Satkhani. 3. Bagido Latha, Satlllani, Dhungia, Vanlti a Chomukh Chomukb, 4. Dhabli Lat Chormukh, Solakhani, Sukadi, Dhunpia, Dholkia, Van kia, Paruehi, Dhari, Hadki, Fult Popati. DhUJfi S. Carpet (Cotton) . Satikhani, Vankia, Machar, Chomukh, Dhungla. 6. Carpet (Cotton) Satkhani, Vankia, Machhar Chomukha, Patta, DhucIa, DhUJli 7. Carpet (Wollen) . Satkhani, Vankia, Chomukha, Palta, Machhar, Patta. S. Khati Popati. 9. Ludki Chomukba, Dhinghi.~Dhongla, Machhar. Satkhani, Lariya, Chhadari, Ful, Suddi, Chokhala. 111 It ,will be seen from the above statement that and a few motifs are inserted by hand. In Bhujodi few similar designs are woven by the craftsmen of majority of designs are woven with the help of four Chitarwada and Ratiya villages. The designs woven beddles. _ by Chitarwaaa village are purely traditional one and .\:~ - : prepared in traditional methods. While in Ratiya The following Statement IV.26 gives the details dcsigna are woven with the help of more heddles about the use of designs as under: STATEMENT IV. 26 Ititred.1ldieII of lI.. p., by relation and perlecl of introd.lction ------Name of the vilIate No.oC No. of Households reported designs as traditional and in use since households making less than 10 yoars 10-19 years prepared by 20 years prepa U9IC of the prepared by red by dosigns Self Son Other Self Son Other Self Son Other 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Jl. Chitarwada 20 4 14 1 1 (Brother's Ion) Ratiya 20 2 1 6 3 I 12 4 1 (Brother) (Brother) ., , Bhujodi 20 2 7 4 8 4' r (Brother) In Chitarwada 18 head of households are pre designs they are weaving. Only the name of the paring designs while 2 are not weaving any designs. designs have remained in memory of the craftsmen In Ratiya all the 20 head of households are preparing as they have been passed in from one g~neration to designs. While in Bhujodi 16 head of households are another. weaving designs while 4 head of households are Dot doing it. As regards the specific reason for introducing new design, same is not stated by any household. How Use of Design ever, it was observed during survey that the new It is observed that only in Chitarwada out of 20 designs were introduced to make the articles attractive households 13 have reported that their design is asso and to give it some new look. ciated with myths and legend having religious concepts but they are unable to give details or describe the myth The following Statement IV.27 gives number of or legend. While in Ratiya and Bhujodi nobody has households who have introduced the new designs and reported any myth or legend associated with the period since they have done so. STATEMENt IV ·27 Period of IIItroduction of Designs No. of households No. of households repeated havin, Name of village New dolilll introduced new designs since Continuing Introduced traditional new design Less than 5-9 10-' design 5 years years years 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Chitarwada Piyali Flase Chokhta Mor Train Chheda Bandhani 20 11 2 9 Ratiya Peacock Ambo Sandhiya Ladwa Ghadiyal Zad, Vel Bhamri Vav Vi men . 29 13 4 4 5 Bhujodi Po pat Dholki Pankh Satkhari Chomukh Parchi, Dhunlli . . . • . 19 6 3 2 It is observed that in Cbitarwada, 11 households than 5 years. In Bhujodi, 6 households have intro- have introduced new designs. Of these, 9 have done duced new designs of which 2 have been doing so for more than 10 years, 3 have for 5 to 9 years and it from 10 and more years while 2 have done it for only 1 is doing it for less than 5 years. < last 5 to 9 years. In Ratiya, 13 households have introduced new designs of which 5 have reported that The details of Motifs used in the various items they havo introduced for the last 10 yean and more, produced' by the ~raftsmen of the three centres af~ 4 have dono it for last 5 to 9 years and 4 for less given below ~ DORA CHtTARWAPA RATfYA - - 't -~----~-----~---- 9HU')ODI / -~~- DIAD' CHITARWADA RATIYA iHUJOOI PATTI CHITARWAOA RATIYA BHVJQDI _--- PATHARA/PATARA .....------CH1TARWADA RAT'Y~ BHUJOOI ----.. ... ------CHIT~~WAOA -RATfYf.\ PATT...... --- ... ------~~--...... ------BHU.)OD! ---..------'!IIi ------_-::--'-:"':___'-- --:-- -~-- ..-:-- -~--:...... - ---._ -~-...... _--_.. - -- NAVDHARI ASA -_:-__- -_- _=_=-=-:-_- - -_-'- ...... =_,:--=,-l._ - ~...,-- _=~~-- ..._'_' - ....-- -.,..------_- ...... '---- ' ------,.-- --~ -----._ ------_ _"- CHITARWADA RATIYA OAK ALA - -.----- BHUJODI RATtYA UCHe;TIA Motifs woven in different items 113 PLATB-XXXID ~~~!<~~I~~~i UCHETIA ~ ------,;--:-- .- - -- RATIYA --I-~~ i ~~ I~~: 1------~------~-- ------RATIYA CHOKHATA ------~-- ---~ ------CHOKHATA ------~;.-- -~~=~- --:-=:_- ~~_;:~- ~- RATIYA NAVDHARI ,;._-------- -~------~------ ------....-- _ ------SANr{ALI -_-_------_------RATIYA ------ DHAJA DHAJAGRO CHITARWADA RATIYA JHANDO -- ---.------CHITARWADA RATIYA MOR BHUJODI - - _------ Motifs woven in different items. 16-337 R.O. India/ND/88 114 PLAT&.;.-XXXlV NAVDHARI RATIYA BHUJODI ------RAT IVA ---.... ---- _._- NAVKUKARI ------RATIYA .. - _:... BUTT' -- RATIYA VEL CHITARWADA RATIYA •• •••• ..'a, '...... '. .' .'.' ,',a.. '...... ' , • ••••••• •••••• •••• .' a, •• :., " .', a, a. • •• ' ,',.. .' • •• •• • ••• '.~ ,t , ....-'. • .".'.t ":'. ..:.' ',;..... "::', • • •••t '. ',',' ...... '•••• " DERDI " .' ,',,' ~., ...... ' CHITARWADA ":':'" "':':'" :.' .:::.... . • •., • ....." '.• .. ..."•• '. .•.. a, :.• .a,' a••• t •• ,', •• , .",-.. a,. . •• •• a. •••• ••••• .' ' • •••• • ' a. ". .' .' a. a. a. ' ••••: • a, •••••' a", .' .' • a ...." '.' .' ' ...... ' " .",. ',_...... .• • •. . ·• . .· · · . .. ·· · . . .· · · . . . ·· . Motifs Wofen in different items 115 .0 ....0 PLATE-XXXV ...... · ·. .•- .. •• . .-... " ·· ...... · ...... ·* ••••. . :.. ••. _...... :: ••"... •••• • •••... . ·.. .,.. :.:.:: .. :.. .:...... : : ....~:: ...... _.: ... : ._ •••.• •• ~•••.•••••• ! •••, •••• • • a.- .. • ~•• :.. •• ..-•• : : : ••:.. ..:.... a ... •:.~ ••: :::.: .:.: : : : ••':: :..... CH1TARWAl)A ...... :~ : : .. :...... DEAl .:.:. -- :. ~!...... •...... :.~.: •••...... , ...... : ...... : ...... ~ .. \...... -i •••••• :. : •••••~ ••••• ·...... •• e.- •• .a._...... a••••••• :.~.. *. •••• ..-. ·· .a.".· ...... ·• ..• 0 ·o ..•• ·o ...• • ·.. ..: .. ...... o ·• ..• .o. . .• ·o ·.•• ...... -. .:... .· ...... - ...... •.... •••••• ::. ·0:- ::•• :: •••• ~. -.:.. -. -...... _.. . • -• .• . .a•• ..:_. ._._.. •• :...... :. ..:: •• ::.•• :: •• :: ••• :~. •••••• CHITARWADA .. :.:...... ,: .. : -.: -.: .:.:. .~ .... : F=JVALI ...... ·..... ·.. - ._.. .. -. -... -...... -...... ·_- .: ..... !.: ...:. :.:.~.:...... -.: ...... •.•. to • • ..--• • .. ··...... ·o -.....• .• . . .. ·-...... ...... :: ... - •· ·••. .. - •. . ·· .... ::...... :. :. : -. :.. :. -:...... : ...! ...: ...::.~:-:.: · ...... :.~ . .... ~.. :...... _ :: ... .,..~.:.~...... -. .-. - ...:.... AMBO •• ...... •••• •.. ••••• :.- , ..•••••• :.... :••• :. :.:.:.:...... :...... ••• CHI 'P,,... A RWADA ..•.· ::..... - ...... :... .. : . ••:.;:. a •• :_•• _. : •••_ ••••• •••• • ~:·.-:~_ •• ...... •• • : •••• : •• A.'a •••••••: •• ...... :... :...... :...... ·...... ··.. :.::: ... Motif~ WOVen in different Item!! 116 PLATE-XXXVI ·...... • ·· .· ...... ••••• • • eo • • • • • •• • •.•••••••.••••• • •• ..:.:.: e.O••• •••••••• 0. ••••• e.-••••• : ••• ••• CHITARWADA IS _.0 •• ~.:.: ••• eo •••••••••••••••••• • 'QQ \'t.e ••••••••••••• ...... ·• .•_.: .• • ••- ••••••••...... eo.. e.. • ••••...... • .... •. • e- ••. .KAROLIVA • ••• 0.0::II • ...... ••••• ::.:.:• •• ·· . •• . •.• . 0. .° ....•••••• . °...... 0.-... :•••••••••••• ' •• 0••••••••• 0. o. ••••••• • ••:... • 0.- ••• 0: •••••: •••• eo· ••.•• :.:.:••• e••••• 0•• 0-: •• •• •• • ••- eo •••• o.o •• ••• eo· •••• · . . .~...... :.. • • • • e· ·o .•• . . • • • ·• ..•• ·• . ·· . ·..· ..· .. . . . ·· ·...... ·· ...... ·· ...... · :. .. :.. · .... ." ·...... o • · ...... • 0 ·· ...... :...... ·...... : ...... 0.- .... . o • • . . · ...... - . .. • • 0 ...... :... ·· . . . . eo ••- - ·· ...... -.. CHITARWAOA RATIYA MOR · .. ., . ... . ·..... _...... _._:.: e· .. ' ...... -. .·: ... :...... ·· .· . .- . - ..- ...... ·...... ·· · ...... ·· ...... ·· ..· ...... ··...... :. ·· .- . ._. . -..- ...... ·. . . . ·· • . . ··· ..· .. " . . •.a...• • •.•. ::•e._. . .-. . • • ••••• ...... -- ...- ...... -...... •.- ...:'...... -...... -:.-.. - ..•... •w·. .. e w " ...... • . .e • • _• w- •• ••••••• •• •••••• - :,.:. _.... •••• .e w. •• • • CHITARWADA SITAMADHI ...." ..... -:-.:...... :...... :.:.. - ..:.:.: .... :...... :.: ...: ...... •..:. ·w· .: •• :. ..:. ••••.••• :. RAT1YA ...... ·· .... -...... --. . '...... -...... • :.:.....· .. . ..:.. ••.•• ••••• ••••. w·. ... .:..•• •• •• • ••• eew ••• ••••••••••••• ...... _. .. .: .:._. e.- •..••••••• w••••••• . .. .: .. ~ -.' ·.' Motifs woven in tliDeren:1 item$ 117 PLATB-XXXVU ·...... ' - ...·.: ...... :::::.:• •• w·.. w- ~ : · . ·: ...: .... :...... OANTIVO .. :: :... ..:: .. . : • : ...... : ••••••: : : : w•• ; •• .. ::. :...... _ .. . ':: .~:.: .•. : · ...... w- ...... •111 ••••• "..... O.$.::~: •• I1·:.·· ... ~ ••• 'S • • • II •• •• ..- •• .. ·. ' ..W.:_ CHITARWADA RATIYA · , ...... :.:...... :::'::. .' " .. ..'... • ...... - ...... • WW- ...- ·e. W... _•• :..~. .:..,..0.: ... w-.-_. .:...... :.: .... :: .. ••••.• •• .. w·- .. ::w-.. w..•• ~. -.-.:... : .. w·•• _ w- .:..... :...... :.:.. .:. w...... f' , " · .....,.. , , , ·.. w-·.... BUTTON ... ., , : .:.:.:. ·. . . . '.' .' ., .. ·...... '. :'., . '...... · . w· ...... '. ; ...... • ...... w. .. ·...... ~ ...... RAT'Y. •w··:·. .•...... w-.:. · ...... :: ... -::.$.. .. CHITARWAt>A : .... :.: ...... : w ...... : w- ··...... -...... • w••• • • • ...: .. " w...... w-.. . .:· e.··. w. ...... ••• ••• ...... '...... " .,'. :::: .. :.:~:.:.:.:.: ...... ' ...... SANDHIA ::: :'::::.:.: -:.: .:.:.:.:.:. . ...••••••. ., .. ',' ' ...... ,a._.' ... '.....••.• ...... '. ' ...... ~.' ."~ ...... •:: ::0'. eo It. f. ',11,'.:. :.:.:.:...... ,. '·...... ,.. . .·.. . MDtif$ woven in different itmu 118 PLATB-Xxxvm It • • •• ...... •• • • ••• .. • • • •• • ••• ••• •• • •••• • e .•• ...... • ASA .. :::.:.:~:=:.:...... :'.:":" .. ..:.::.:::...... :'.:':::...... =::'::: ...... :.> ...• ...... •...... ••... ••... 0···. . .•.• .••.. .• ·.• .• ... - e._.... .•...... ·...... _... . ••• ...: •• :· •• ·...: •• .:.. •• ~ •• 1...... ·.. .. ·...... e.- . .. ·...... :.: ...... :.. ..:.:.::.. : ....:: ..: ...... DERDI ...... :: ...... :.: . CHITARWADA · ·~...... : ...... ::·...... :.: ...... ::...... • •••••••* •••••: ••••••• ~: !. : :. : :•• : •••••• :: . : .. : .... ·...... ·... .. :...... ' . . .._ ... · :...... ,,:... :.. · .. ...· ...... ·...... ' . .' o .• •. · •·...... ·...... :.. :...... ·...... :...... : : ·...... :: ...... : •.•.•..• ...... :: . .. :.. ... :...... '.:...... ··:.-·:··0...... ::~::-...... ::...... :...... SASAWAOO ...... : .. •• .•• . •...... * .•• :...... : ... : ... ~... .. ••.. ••• .... •.. •• ..• •• • _...... -.1: ...... ::...... ·· ...... :...... ::. ..••••••••••••. _...... ·...... :. ._-...... ::...... : ...... o ..• 0 .. .. :...... :: ... :.: ...... :...... :.:...... -.· ...... : ...... :: ...... ' . 0 ...... : ...... '...... o .•• ...... ·. ·...... • •• ...... :. -: . 119 PLATE-XXXIX _.... •• .••• •• ..11.. ._ ~ • ·· . . · ...... - .. . .. -.' ...... -...... - ... .. • ••••• 11 •••••••11... .:..•••••• :-•••: ... . ::,:. .. :.: .. ~: .... : ... .,: :.... -.:-.-:::. -.:. .. .. • •••-.:.::.; ...... • _. .II •• . : ...... II. ~ ••••...:.!: .. .·.. :: ... ~ ... : ...... : ...... :.~ ...... -- . ·:: ...... " .. ..: .. :.:. .. ·· ·. . . · ~ ...... - .. :·.. · . :: ...... _... : ...... ~ ...... : ~.. ..::. _:: ·...... :: ..:.:.. .. ·· . ·...... - ...... :: ...... :.. :: :::::. :: • .....•.•. ... :•.. :.:. :': II...... _ .. :..•.. : •.. • ...... : : .. :...... :- . .: ...... ~... :.: ...... :...... : .....•.... :... : ·· . !...... : ....:;:...... :.; .. ·· ·. . . ·. -.. - ...... SITAMADHf · ...... " ...._.. 11•• * .. .. • _.· :.... '. .." ...11 ••••• ~ ·.... · .•.. ···4 .....•...... _...... : : :.. __ ...... ~. .-· .- . • • 0 • • • • • • • ••• .: .: :: :: ...• :.. ·· . . ·: ...... : ...... ~:...... : · .o • · .' .. .::...... :::.. :: ....:: ... ::: ...... o • .. ' . ::.• •••••••••••••••. .. a. : .•! •••••••.a ••i··· ••••• ·•:, ••.. :a..... •.• :: .: ••••••• a.. -.!: ::. ..: •.•• . ::.. .: •.•• ... :••• a ..:: : ... :... . : ....•. :. : ....:: .... :... :.:. _. --. . .-...... - .. .. .·0.. - 0 ·. • • •• : ••••••••••a •• :: ·o • •• • ~ ·0' .:.:.-.: ••••• · .• ..••• . .. .. ·. ... - . -.- •...... •. •• ••... .. • .• ••••...... ·· ...... - ...... ·· - ...... - ...... - ...... • .•:. .-...... • •• ...... •••...... • .. ••. ·-· _...... -.- .... 0- .. ..._...... _ . .. _-.. ._ ... : ... - ... - ...... :: _.•••• .- •• -411::. •••••• :: ••••:.:: •••••• MOR .- ...... ••••...... -• .••• ... : .. ..••••• ...... • •• aa •••••••: ...... -...... -:...... :...... -. . - -··. -.. -:...... - ...... · .- ...... ·...... ·.. . -...... • . ::.. ...·...... '...... " ...... ••. 0 ·. · ...... ·• ...... Motifs woven ill different items 120 PLATE-XL .:::. ::. ::: ..:::::':'': ..... e ...... a...e_...... •...... " .._>: ._.. _ -... -:-..... " ...- ...... ~: ..:.:\::::- .... .:...... :: .: .. :: ...... '...... :...... " .. 'e. I ...... a' I •••- I •• :: ...e., .... " .... " I." ...... :..... ::•••• :.! ...... :. ::: •• ::.:: ••••• :: •• :.~: AMBO .....: .. : ...... " ...... " .. : .... " .. ~...... : ...... : .. :: .. :: .:.:.. . ••••: .•••. : ••_i. ••• : •• : ...... :.:: ...... •. ::.:••.•. : •• '_ ::1 •. :. ..•••.••• .. .••. ~ .. .. ."_' .. .. a..:.. .. .••.•..-...... •••••• .. .:1.... ._ ...... :•• :: .. :.. : .. :::: .. ~ ... - .... : .. :.. .. .;:::.. " .. ..:.:" .. .. ."...... · ~. '. ~ .. : :..... -;.. : ...... ""...... ,1,1, I' ',' ,I ...... ,', .. .'.... : ~'''''.'' .. '., .. ' ...... ' .. ' ..... . . . ' ...... 1:,: ....· : ..... : : .... '.'::" .. ',.:;:.: .-:: ... : . . : ...... :..... : .... : .... : .... : .... -.. : : ! :"'::: -...... '. :' . .:::. ~::.' ::: ; ..> ..:: .... ~::: .. : ::...... :.!a. .. 1 0 ...... :: ... : ...... ,...... I ..... : : .', • ...... : : ., . . .. .: .:: ...... : ...... : ...... : ;.... _ ... : ...... :.: ...... :...... 0.. :: .0. .. .0. : ••.••• ~:::.:: ...... • ::I, ...... -,I ..'.-0' .. SITAMADHI .. :;:.}:.:...... eo :., •• ," ... : : ...... : •• f ...... : ',:::: ...... -" ...... ' :.' ' .. -·0 ., ...... ,."...... 0. .0. 0 ••, ", ...... ", "::'"".:,' ... ::::... . L...... ::~.:~:: ~::.: ::.... ::::: ::11·· ..:.: ... ~ ... ::::: .. /:;:~t:.:: .... ::: .. . : . .. ", ...... : II I. I··: ::.=. .. .._.. ' 10 : ..'._ '" I.'...... ~ .::.\ ...... ::;::...... ,I : •• ' : ...... :...... ; ...... :.... ." .... ." .. .. .' . . .. ,I :.,,: . " " ... "". " " .. "" " .0 ... . ." .. .. . ,,"." ": . .." .. " .. ... :... .. !.".:: .. .." "" ." ... " .. ·. .. . . " "."... " . ..:. ... .". ". · . ".. " ". .." " ".: ..... .." " . : " .." ... : .. ... :."." "" " · . ....'. .. ' ...... " ••• e • · . . ~ Motifj woven in different items CHAPTER V MARKETING SECTION V-MARKETING Kamli 1 Tara 5.1 The market is the most important factor in Kamli 4 Tara the growth and d':.;velcpment of any craft or industry. Kamli with design In the absence of m'!r\:0ting facility craft cannot flou 3!1awls 1 Tara "1 rish. In all th~ :1 se1.eeted villages, different items 3ha\\'l& 2 Tara Chitarwada and of woollen artidr:s are bein::; m['r:1'f8:~tured by the Ratiya craftsman, viz., Dh"lbla, Kamal, Dhabli, KamH, Gali Shawals 3 Tara cha, Mafia).", Shawls, eCc. According to the craftsmen Asaniya the prodllcticu of each item generally depends upon Maftar .its demand and avail"bil:ty of t:me 'v!:,;cn varies from I time to time. If .,;);: item is pl:lin one it rC'luires Dhabla Ratiya. Chitarwada less time for completiC';, but item with "8.riOl1S designs Shawl. .J·1 and Bhujodi and colours COl:r.umes more time. lvl(;:eo"cr, it also depends 011 different fe~lmiq'les, metn(';ds, tools and The t,-;o items, i.e., Dhabla and Shawls are being raw materia!g used b)' the craftf'Jmen. F0r example, prodllced in all the three centres but if one goes the craftsmen of Chit,,-'vada v'l!age produce less num into ,he ci(,;c,tils one can observe that only Dhabla ber of items than t.hose of Rrrtiya and Ehujodi villag:os. 4 Tara and Plain Shawls are produced in the three This is bec:;wse of tbe facts th2t th,,: craftsmen of centres. The dt:lails are as under: both these villages H3<: mill made blended yarn which eliminates !-1.le spinning process and hence saves time Dhabla Plain · ") I and labour that may b:: required for spi:J.ning proce~s. Dhabla wit}j designs I DhC'-bla 2 Tara · ~ Ratiya and Bhujodi The det'lil~ inclndin:' mune r S1. Name of main Type of objects shown in No. of household and yearly average per household Purpose or Mainly use No. handicraft object Col. 2 manufactured in each village use of craft Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi No. of Average No. of Yearly No. of Yearly house- per house- average house- average hold house- hold per hold per hold house- house- hold hold M F 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 DHABLA Plain 5 26 2 12 Covering M F body 1 Tara 18 13 M F 2 Tara 5 24 8 68 M F 3 Tara 20 12 M F 4 Tara 12 15 6 34 12 M 6 Tara 7 12 M F 2 Tara with design 12 4 30 M F 2 Tara full design 12 M 3 Tara with less design 12 M F 4 Tara with design 2 18 M F with design 1 24 12 M F 2 SHAWLS Plain 36 6 20 7 123 Covering M F 1 Tara 1 12 1 39 M F 2 Tara 1 24 2 18 F " M 3 Tara 2 12 1 12 M F 4 Tara 3 36 " M F I MARINA Marina shawls 7 99 M F Full design 3 148 M F Bandhani 180 M F LOBDI Plain 5 14 Covering by M religious " Priests 1 Tara 4 12 M 2 Tara 1 12 M 3 Tara 6 12 M 4 Tara 11 12 M 6 Tara 1 24 M S CHARMALIA Plain 9 12 Wearing F 1 Tara 4 12 F with design 2 24 F 6 TANGALAI . Plain 8 12 Wearing F 1 Tara 12 F with design 3 12 F 7 DHUSLA Plain 7 17 Wearing F 1 Tara 2 18 F with design 2 12 " " F 8 CHUNDADI Plain 14 14 Covering F 1 Tara 1 12 F 2 Tara 1 12 F 9 GALIYU Plain 7 14 Covering by F ladies 1 Tara 3 12 F with design 2 18 F 123 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 10 KAMLI Plain 2 30 Covering M 1 Tara 1 24 F 2 Tara 3 24 M 3 Tara 2 12 F 4 Tara 3 20 3 40 M F 6 Tara 2 12 F 4 Tara with design 1 24 M Kamli with design 2 18 M Kamii Kali 24 Covering by F Ahir ladies MemiKali 36 Covering by M Mer ladies 11 KAMAL Plain 24 Covering M 1 Tara 1 12 .. M 4 Tara 1 12 M 6 Tara 12 M Kali 8 32 Male M 2 Tara 1 48 Bharwad M 12 KACHCHHI- Plain 9 37 Covering M KORA 2 Tara 1 12 Mostly by M Bharwad community 4 Tara 36 Covering M Mostly by Bharwad community 4 Tara with design 3 12 .. M 13 DHUSA Plain 8 21 Covering M F 2 Tara 3 28 by Bharwad M F 4 Tara 2 24 Community M F 14 BETHA 5 29 Covering M F 15 PATIYA 9 28 Covering by F Bharwad ladies 16 LUDKI 2 120 Covering by Rabari ladies 17 GHEDVA 180 Wearing by P Rabari ladies BAGIDO 72 Covering for ladies 19 KHATI 1 Tara 2 24 Covering M F 20 SHETRANJI 12 65 Floor M F Carpet 21 GALICHA 5 10 Floor M F Carpet 22 ASANIYA 4 18 2 120 Sitting M F Sheet 23 MAFLAR 2 18 120 Covering M neck & head 24 DHABLI Plain 3 180 Covering F byRabari ladies 1 Tara 2 108 .. F 124 From the above data it will be observed that 5.3 Method of Disposal of Flmshed Products about Z4 items named in diftcr(;ilt ioed teilUS ale Gem.::ra •• -The details regarding the number of being prepared in the selected villag",s. 'ine . main ,co,uieholu:'; 1l1 STATEMENT V''!> Details relating to the name of haDllicraft item~, the num~ of boulleholds wanufactured the items, yearly pl'Oductiou, the ~ of households disposed otT tbe finished goods thrllugh different chaDnels, etc. (Katiya) (. \'" Name of handicraft item No. of Total No. of households disposed otT the fiitished house yearly products in proportion thtough . holds produc- - manu- tion Direct to the consumer Middleman factured items 50% 80% 100% 20% 50% 100% 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Dhabla Plain 5 132 4 2 Tara 5 120 4 4 Tara 6 204 4 1 2 Tara with design 12 1 Dhabla with design 24 1 Total 18 492 3 3 12 3 3 Kachchhl Kota Plain 9 336 2 7 2 2 Tara 1 12 1 4 Tara 1 36 1 1 4 Tara with design 3 36 3 Total 14 420 3 11 3 Dhusa Plain 8 168 2 1 5 2 2 Tara 3 84 3 4 Tara 2 48 2 Total 13 300 2 10 2 Kamal Kali 8 252 3 5 3 2 Tara 1 48 1 Total 9 300 3 6 3 Kamali Plain 2 60 1 2 Tara 3 72 2 4 Tara 3 120 3 4 Tara with design 24 1 Kali 1 24 1 Merni Kali 1 36 Total 11 336 9 Shawl Plain 6 120 2 1 3 2 1 Tara 4 156 4 2 Tara 2 36 2 3 Tara 12 1 4 Tara 3 108 1 2 1 Total 16 432 3 1 12 3 1· Betha 5 144 2 3 2 Patiya 9 252 3 6 3 ._-----_._--- NOTE :-Handicraft items are not sold throuih Market. Hat and Mela. 126 It will be seen that 18 households have surners and a few households seem to sell their prepared 492 different types of Dhablas of which a little product through middleman. The figures not a single household has sold its product of households are 10 out of 13 households in res through market, hat or mela. However, out of pect of Dhusa, 6 out of 9 in case of Kamal, 18 households 12 have sold their 100% goods 9 out of 11 in case of Kamli, 12 out of 16 for directly to the consumers and none has given Shawls, 3 out of 5 for Bethas and 6 out their entire goods either through middleman or of 9 households in respect of handicraft item Patiya. co-operative society. Only very few households sold some proportion of their products through 3. Bhojodi.-The handicraft items of Bhujodi middlemaf in respect of handicraft item Kachchhi vi1!age are very famous and this village has earn Kora al~ 11 out of total 14 households sold ed the name in the map of India and the crafts their entire product directly to the consumers men of the village received the National award for while 3 households gave 50 per cent of the their beautiful craft. They not only sold their product through middleman. It will be easily product directly to the consumers but also observed from the above data that in respect of through middleman, co-operative society and other handicraft items the almost same position through different federations. In Bhujodi the regarding the disposal o~· the finished goods is craftsmen prepare handicraft item like Dhabla in noticed, viz., in case of handicraft item like different varieties. Ludki, Ghedva, Bagido, Dhusa, Kamal, Kamli, Shawl, Betha and Patiya Dhabli, Khati, Shawls of various types, Shetranji, the majority of craftsmen of this village sold Galicha, Asaniya and Mafiar, etc., from woollen their entire finished product directly to the con- yarns. STATEMENT V. 3 (a) Details relating to the name of handicraft items, number of households manufactured the items, yearly production, number of house holds disposed off the finished goods through different channels (Bhujodi) Name of Handicraft No. of Total No. of Households disposal of the finished products in preparation through Item house- yearly holds produ- Directly to the consumers Middle man Cooperative Any other manu- ction society (Specify) factured federation item 5% 10% 20% 50% 80% 100% 5% 20% 50% 100% 50% 100% 80% 90% 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Dhabla Plain 2 24 2 2 Tara 8 540 1 2 1 1 2 4'Tara 1 12 1 2 Tara with design 4 120 1 1 1 2 Tara with Full design 1 12 1 3 Tara less design 1 12 1 3 Tara with design 2 36 1 1 Dhabla with design 1 12 1 TOTAL 20 768 1 3 2 2 1 1 9 2 3 2 Ludki 2 240 1 Ghedva 1 180 1 Bagido 1 72 1 Dhabli Plain 3 S40 1 1 Tara 2 216 2 TOTAL . 5 756 1 3 1 .. Khan 1 Tara 2 48 2 Shawl Plain 7 864 3 1 2 1 Marina Shawl 7 696 1 2 1 1 Marina Full design 3 420 1 1 Marina Bandhani 1 180 1 Shetranji 12 792 1 1 2 3 3 1 2 Galicha 5 48 1 1 1 1 1 Asaniya 2 240 1 1 120 Maf'lar ------Note :-Handicraft items art! Dot sold through Market, Hat and Mela. 127 It will be seen that in all 20 households objects like Ludki, Ghedva, Bagido, DhabJi and engaged in preparation of various types of Dhabla Khati, Marina, Bandhani, Mafiar, etc., are not who manufactured 768 items per year. Out of :-ll all being sold through co-operative society, but these 20 households, 2 households sold their entire mainly sold directly to the consumers as well as product (100%) directly to the consumers, 9 through middleman by some households. through middleman and 2 through co-operative society, whereas 3 and 2 households sold their It has already been stated earlier that the 80% and 90% of product through federations craftsmen of this village also organis~ exhibi namely. (i) Gujarat Handloom and Handicraft tion-cum-sale demonstration for selliJlg their Development Corporation, (ii) The Cottage In finished products. They also deliver ~ good" dustries Corporation, Government of India, New to the handicraft development corporation 00 receiv- Delhi etc. There are 6 households who sold ing demand from them. . their production in different proportion (5%, 20% and 50%) directly to the customers. 5.4 ApprOximate margin 01 profit earned In respect of handicraft item like plain shawl, The follOwing statement shows the number Marina shawl, Shetranji and Galicha the crafts of households manufacturing items, total monthly, men of some households sold their entire (100%) oroduction, total cost-price, total sale price, appro product through co-operative society situated in ximate profit per household and per handicraft item Bhujodi village itself. Whereas the woollen made in selected villages. STATEMENT V.4 Number of households manufacturing items, total monthly production, total cost-price, total sale price, approximate prolt per h~ hold and per handicraft item in selected village! Name of the handicraft item No. of Total Total cost Total sale Approximate profit households monthly price of price of in Rs. manufactur- production product the item ing item Per house- Per hold item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 VILLAGE-CHlTARWADA DHABLA • 1 Tara • 18 20 1,125 1,655 29 26 3 Tara • 20 20 1,622 2,071 32 32 4 Tara. 12 15 1,876 2,898 84 61 6 Tara. 7 7 644 1,020 54 54 LOBDI · Plain 5 6 629 977 70 53 1 Tara. 4 4 410 595 46 46 2 Tara. 1 150 250 100 100 3 Tara. 6 6 816 1,111 59 59 4 Tara. 11 11 1,807 2,607 73 73 6 Tara. 1 2 228 408 180 90 TANGALIA · Plain 8 8 1,101 1,818 82 82 1 Tara. 1 1 190 240 50 50 with design 3 3 600 840 SO 80 GALIYU Plain 1 8 682 1,017 48 42 1 Tara. 3 3 350 420 23 23 with design 2 3 375 440 33 22 CHUNDADI. Plain . 14 16 1,589 2,110 37 32 1 Tara. 1 1 125 150 25 25 2 Tara 1 1 116 150 34 34 eHARMALIYA Plain 9 9 916 1,424 56 56 1 Tara. 4 4 450 545 24 24 128 2 3 4 5 6 7 with design 2 4 540 750 105 52 KAMLI 1 Tara. 2 120 180 60 30 3 Tara. 2 2 200 275 37 37 4 Tara. 3 5 729 965 79 47 6 Tara. 2 2 266 390 62 62 with design 2 3 370 750 90 60 KAMAL Plain 2 210 370 160 80 1 Tara. 60 90 30 30 4 Tara. 80 140 60 60 6 Tara • 114 200 86 86 Plain 165 195 30 10 1 Tara. 3 4 405 480 25 19 2 Tara. 1 1 270 300 30 IS 3 Tara. 2 2 130 180 25 25 ASANlYA 4 6 47 73 7 4 MAFLAR 2 3 34 55 11 7 VILLAGE-ItATIY A DHABLA Plain 5 11 1,365 1,730 73 33 2 Tara. 5 10 1,467 1,950 97 48 4 Tara. 6 17 2,185 2,980 132 47 2 Tara with design 120 180 60 60 Dhabla design 2 360 400 40 30 KACHCHHIKORA Plain 4 28 3,639 5,720 231 74 2 Tara. 1 115 160 45 45 4 Tara. 3 143 200 47 19 4 Tara with design . 3 3 480 625 48 48 DHUSA Plain 8 14 559 830 34 19 2 Tara. 3 7 540 740 67 28 4 Tara. 2 4 130 205 35 19 KAMAL KALI 8 21 2,776 4,459 210 80 2 Tara 4 508 900 392 98 KAMLI Plain 2 5 600 925 163 65 2 Tara. 3 6 945 1,190 82 41 4 Tara. 3 10 1,790 2,420 210 63 4 Tara with design 2 440 600 160 80 Kali 2 300 400 100 50 Merni Kali ~ . 3 398 695 297 99 SHAWL. Plain 6 10 607 945 56 34 1 Tara. 4 13 595 930 84 26 2 Tara 2 3 145 220 38 25 3 Tara. 1 65 80 15 15 4 Tara. 3 9 336 390 85 28 BBmA 5 12 1440 1,925 103 43 PA1tYA 9 21 2,353 3,610 140 60 129 1 2 3 4 7 VILLAGE-BHUJODI DHABLA Plain 2 2 180 250 35 5 2 Tara. 6 4S 3,955 5,115 227 42 4 Tara. 1 116 1S0 40 40 2 Tara with design . 31 10 190 1,110 109 E:4 2 Tara full design 1 1 190 250 60 60 3 Tara less design . 1 250 340 90 90 4 Tara with design . 2 3 580 810 115 77 Dhabla with design. 100 150 50 Sf) LUOKI . 2 20 990 1,400 205 20 OHEDVA 1 15 525 150 225 15 BAGIDO 6 180 240 60 10 DHABLI Plain 3 45 2,410 2,975 1>88 12 1 Tara. 2 18 740 1,060 160 Ig :KHAn 1 Tara. 2 4 180 240 30 15 SHAWL Plain 4 72 1,290 1,815 146 16 MARINA SHAWL . 6 58 3,365 4,980 269 37 MARINA SHAWL. Full design 3 35 2,675 4,100 475 41 MARINA SHAWL. Bandhani IS 900 1,350 450 30 SH.BTRANn 8 66 3,090 4,155 133 41 OAUCHA 5 4 1;540 3,550 202 12 ASANIYA 12 70 130 160 30 3 MAFLAR 1 20 25 5 , It may be clarified here that the. cost price overall more profit to the craftsmen of Bhuiodi of the handicraft item includes the pnce of raw than the other two centres. materials and does not include labour charges involved in preparing of different crafts, since the The itemwise profit further shows that in members of the households are themselves doing th~ Chitarwada village the householdwise profit varies work. from Rs. 29/- to Rs. 84/- in case of Dhablas whereas in Ratiya village the respective figures The villagewise data also disclose that t~f' are Rs. 40/- and Rs. 132/- for the same handicraft highest profit of Rs. 475/- per household ~s product which are quite higher than the profit observed in Bhujodi village in respect of handI earned by the households of Chitarwada village. craft item Marina full design and Rs. 450/- also The respective amount of profit in case of the for Marina Bandhani shawl whereas in respect households of Bhujodi is still higher which are of remaining two villages the highest profit is Rs. 35/- and Rs. 227/- respectively. Similarly, Rs. 392/- per household in ~ase ?f handicra_ft in respect of various types of shawls which are item Kamal 2 Tara in RatIya VIllage and In also manufactured in all the three centres it will Chitarwada village the same is Rs. 180/- only be noticed that profit per household is highest for handicraft product, Lobdi 6 Tara. From these in Bhujodi village which varies from Rs. 146/ facts it is quite evident that the monthly pro to Rs. 475/-. The respective figures in Ratiya duction of output is considerably high in Bhu village are Rs. 15/- and R& 85/- whereas the jodi village and Ratiya as compared to Chi tar amount of profit per household varied from wada Village. This is mainly due to reason Rs. 25/- to Rs. 30/- only in Chitarwada village. already stated earlier that in Bhujodi village This reflects the monthly production manufactur spinning process has been completely eliminated ed bv the craftsmen of Bhujodi as well as the and the craftsmen of Ratiya village have also mostly qua Uiy of handicraft objects. discontinued this process, which saves time and labour. On the contrary, per item profit seems Except the handicraft product of Dhabbts to be less in Bhujodi village as compared to other and Shawls, there is no other product which is Villages. This is because of the fact that house commonly prepared in all the three villages. holds of Bhujodi village manufactured more items However, it will be noticed that the woollen item as compared to other two centres which gives like Kamal and Kamli are manufactured in both 18-337 R.G. India/ND/88 130 Chitarwada and Ratiya village. In this case also According to the craftsmen of the villages profit per household varies considerably. In generally no terms and conditions are fixed for respect of Kamal the highest profit is Rs. 160/ selling the goods. t~ey sell on cash payment and lowest one is Rs. 30/- only in Chitarwada except on some occaSIOn the craftsmen 'give them village. The respective figures of profit in Ratiya on credit basis. They do not have any ready market village are Rs. 392/- and Rs. 210/- per house available for disposing of their goods and hence hold. Similarly, the wide variation in case of they themselves have to make all efforts for the craft Kamli is also observed. The highest disposal of the products. However, in exceptiQnal amount of profit per household is Rs. 297/- and case the craftsmen of Bhujodi village receive order Rs. 90/- respectively in Ratiya and Chitarwada from various handicraft development corporation of village. Some handicraft items are being prepared State and Government of India. They also organise solely in one village and hence comparison about exhibition and demonstration-cum-sale in various profit per household as per item is not possible. cities and sell their finished goods through exhibition. However, it can be safely observed that the craftsmen of Bhujodi village are earning more profit 5.5 Disposal of finished product locally/exported than the other two production of items mainly due to application of modern techniques. This It will be observed from the villagewise data has rewarded the craftsmen of Bhujodi the National compiled in the Statement V 5 that the craftsmen of award in different years. The approximate all the three villages sell most of their finished pro margin of profit earned by the craftsmen or house ducts locally. The customers and small traders holds on selling items through different channels themselves contact them for purchasing the has not been attempted here. Because the house woollen goods. Sometime the craftsmen also visit holds are not able to supply separate informa different places nearby and far places for sell tion for each channel or source through which ing their product. The craftsmen of Bhujodi the products have been sold. It has also been also participate in the exhibition and sell their reported that they are not keeping such a separate product in such exhibition. Since the woollen made account for each item which have been sold. As objects of Bhujodi village are very fine and mer.tioned earlier that the craftsmen of Chitarwada famous, . they, also receive orders from the different village do not sell their product either through handloom and handicraft development corporation. middleman or co-operative society, they sell The craftsmen of the selected villages also report directly to the consumers. Similarly, most of the ed that they do not export any manufactured goods craftsmen of Ratiya village are also selling their from the village and further reported that they ,have product directly to the consumers only a few no idea about any other agency exporting their goods households sell small proportion of their product after purchasing from them. . through middleman. However, the craftsmen of 5.6 Demand and Supply of Finished Goods Bhujo<;li villa~e supply their product through co operative soclety or through Federations, viz., they The following statement reveals the meeting of supply the finished product on receiving demand local as well as outside demand by the households from them. Most of the finished goods are sold and also reasons in l:ase they do not meat the directly to the consumers. demand. STATEMENT V.5 No. of households manufacturing the item and reported meeting local and outside demand Name of village Educational level of head of No. of house- No. of households to have No. of households reported household holds manu- met the demand for their to have not met the demand facturing finished product items Local demand Outside de- Local demand Outsido to the extent mand to the demand extent ------4 5 6 7 2 3 ------ClJ.itarwada 1. Illiterate 5 5 5 2. Plmary or junior basic 14 14 11 3 3. Matriculation or liigher Secondary • . 1 1 4. Total 20 20 17 3 Ratiya 1. illiterate 5 5 2 3 2. Primary or junior basic 15 15 6 9 3. Total 20 20 8 12 Bhujodi 1. llliterate 5 5* 5* 2. Primary or junior basic 14 14* 5 9* 3. Middle. 1 4. TOlal 20 20 5 15 "Otlt of these 19 hOtlsehoLls, 6 [1-).1'; :;10Ijs ar~ w0rkin3 0'1 hbour chuges basis in the Bhujodl Co-operative Society. 131 1t will be easily seen from the above data that It will be seen from the above data that all households of three selected villages do meet the the craftsmen of the selected villages do face local demand of consumers without any difficulty. problems in disposing of their finished products However, it is also seen that 3 households of Chi due to various reasons as reported by them dur tarwada village, 9 households of Ratiya village have ing. the survey period. In Chitarwada and Ratiya not met the outside demand for which the crafts villages the craftsmen of 9 and 5 households men reported that they are preparing finished respectively have expressed that due. to heavy products only for local demand and further stated competition with factory made products· they fac that they do not wish to sell their products outside ed difficulty in selling their products since the on credit basis. In respect of Bhujodi village 6 factory made goods are cheaper as ~ompared households are manufacturing goods on labour to their goods according to consumers. Both charges for which they receive raw materials from in Chitarwada and Ratiya villages all 20. house village co-operative society whereas remaining 9 holds have reported that due to non-availability households reported that they do not like to sell of proper marketing facility they have to move their goods outside due to financial liabilities but from place to place for selling their goods. The they receive suffic;ent dividend on selling locally. four households of Bhujodi village also report ed the same reason. The 3 households of Bhu 5.7 Problems in disposing off finished products jodi village expressed that the village co-operative society does not pay sufficient labour charge The statement given below indicates the and equal number of households of the same details regarding number of households reported village also reported that the business people or having faced problems in disposing off the finish small traders coming from outside always pay ed products due to various reasons. less price of their goods even after lot of bargaimng. STATEMENT Y'6 HOuseholds reporting problems face in di~posing the In general, the craftsmen of these villages finished products reported that they are facing difficulty in getting raw-material for which also they have to go to Name of No. of households reported to have faced village Total problems due to reasons far places. The raw wool is available only in No. of r------~~___"_-- - ~------. two seasons, viz., in months of August, Septem hOllse' Competi. NO.market· Co·ope· Business- ber and May-June. Their financial position does holds tion with ing faci- rative man/trader not allow them to purchase raw-material in bulk. manu· faciory lily and society give less Hence, during the off season the craftsmen have f&eluring made have 10 does not price the i!emf goods move out- pay suffi- to pay heavy price for the raw wool. They also side cient do not have a ready market available for their charges finished product and have to move from place 1 2 3 to place for selling their goods. Thus, the pros 4 5 6 perity of the woollen craft seems to be hamper Chitar· ed by such barriers. Moreover, the taste of the wada 20 9 modern buyers have also changed and they 20 require soft and fine products. However, it seems Ratiya 20 5 20 that modern machine made woollen blankets or Bhujodi 20 4 3 3 shawls have not greatly affected the craftsmen in general. CHAPTER VI CRAFT AND EMPLOYMENT 6.1 PefiQd of origin of the craft such increase between 1960 and 1970 is almost double in respect of both number of households ~t is rather difficult to give exact period of the and persons. At the time of survey there were QJ;'1s.fn. of the craft in the selectcd villages under 56 households with 246 persons engaged in the stl}4Y,. This is mainly due to non-availability of craft. The number of households and persons "iQtllell~ic information or record of the origin. But has increased at high rate especially in the last a.c;cording to most of the craftsmen residing in the four decades. selected villages the craft startcd bcfore 1900 A. C. CirclUllsfances for associating with the craft. RA TIYA VILLAGE The story narrated about the origin of the craft It was reported by the craftsmen of this by old craftmen who have also heard from their village that two families were migrated from Ladwa forefathers has already been described in Chapter II. The main occupation of Wankar community village of Okha taluka of Jqmnagar district and settled in this village. It was also narrated that the is the weaving of either woollen or cotton cloths. present population is the decendents of these two They are the real promoters of this craft in families. The number of households and persons all the three selected centres. All the craftmen engaged in the craft from 1940 to 1985 is given of the three selected centres have reported that below: they have been associated hereditarily with this .tr~di~ional craft. STATEMENT VI.2 N~er of Howeholds and Persons engaged in Number of households and persons engag!ld in the craft ~ tIul craft Ratiya Village - eHll'ARWADA perioc] Nc. of house- No. of persons It was narrated by the craftsmen during field holds engaged i n the, uwestigation that the present weavers are the craft .Qe~nditnts Qf th.e outcaste of Bharwada Family 2 3 (see Cbap~r II). According to them had pro babty Jl)jgrated from Surendranagar district. The 1. Before 1940 2 9 d~t.ai1s relating to number of households and I?~rsons engaged in the craft are given below: 2. Up'o 1950 19 86 3' Upto 1960 33 150 STATEMENT VI.I 4. Up 01970 47 213 NUlJlPel' of hOUlleholds and persons engaged in the craft . Chitarwada Village 5. Upto 1980 55 250 Period No. of house No. of persons 6. During he survey period 53 241 holds engaged in the (1985) craft 1 2 3 "1 he above figures indicate the consistent growth in the number of households as well as 1. Before 1940 6 26 persons engaged in the craft from 1940 to 1980 2. Upto 1950 9 40 period. The increase in number of households 3. Upto 1960 17 75 and persons from tne 1940 to 1950 decade is 4. Upto 1970 30 158 fantastic. However, a little decrease is also 5. Upto 1980 36 178 observed at the time of survey. 6. During the Survey period 56 246 (1985) BHUJODI VILLAGE Before 1940 there were 6 households with The craftsmen of this village also reported 26 persons engaged in the craft. The number of that the two families one each of Sheja and households has increased from 6 to 9 with in Khcta families have migrated from Barmer of crease in persons from 26 to 40 in 1950. The Rajasthan. Thereafter other families also migrated number of households has gone up from 9 to in this village. However, information as to when 17 in 1960 whereas number of persons engag and how many other families have migrated in ed in the craft has increased from 40 to 75 8hujodi village is not available. The details during the same period. It is also observed that regarding the growth in households and persons 132 133 engaged in the craft are given in the following state STATEMENT VIA ment: Reasons for developing trend in the craft STATEMENT VI. 3 Reasons for increase in number of Number of households Number of households and persons engaged in the craft persons engaged in the craft Bhujodi Village Chitarwada Ratiya Bhujodi No. of No. of persons 2 3 4 Period households engaged in the craft 1. Craft has become very lucrative 3 8 19 3 1 2 2. Ready market for the finished pro- duct . . . . . 2 11 17 40 l' Before 1940 11 3. No problem in selling required raw 2· Upto 1950 18 66 material. . . . . 3 20 3. Upto 1960 37 135 4. No longer monopolised in the hand of a few households who 4. Upto 1970 48 175 were practising it 16 13 6 5. Upto 1980 63 230 5. No problem of unemployment and SC()pe fm expansi()n . . . 1 8 12 •• During the survey period (1985) . 83 303 It is observed from the above figures that From the above data it appears that lucrativity there has bem uneven increase in the number of the craft, the facility of ready market, easy pro of households and persons engaged in the craft curement of raw-material and no problem regarding d\lring differen t decades. The maximum increase employment are the main reported reasons for in· bOth in number of households and craftsmen is crease in number of persons engaged in the craft of observed during the decade 1950-1960 which is a Bhujo_di cel!tre whereas no problem regarding mono little more than double. poly IS mamly felt by the craftsmen of Chitarwada and Ratiya villages. The ready market for finished product is also the reported reason of 11 households In short, the above analysis shows the progres of Ratiya village. I>ive increasing trend in all the three selected centres which is a noteworthy feature of the craft since more and more persons seem to be engaged in this craft. The craftsmen of three centres have stated that Such progressive increase both in number of house they are hereditarily associated with the craft. , All holds and the persons engaged in the craft in select the craftsmen have also stated that according to their ed centres shows the positive sign of improvement memory the craft has been practised for more than of this craft with the passage of time. 86 years. They also reported that they have heard from their elders that it has been carried out by wt 5 to 6 generations. Unemployment Problems.-It is observed that there is a normal and almost continuous increase in the number of households and persons engaged in On examining the overall picture of the craft it the craft. From the details about the unemployed can be said t~at the craft is not in the moribund stage pe:sons classifkd by period, reasons of employment a~~ not ~ slllgie household feels that there is any It IS observed that the craftsmen of the three centres dlsmtegratlOn of craft in the three centrer.. Similarly, ?o not seem to have faced any particular problems the craftsmen do not report about rejuvenation In regard to unemployment. methods required. Those craftsmen who have left the cra~t have done. so far Dot having finance to purchase baSI":: raw-matenals and tools or as there is no member Reasons fl If increasing trend in tbe development of the craft.-There is no appreciable increase in the in the family who is able to carry out weaving process. It was also reported by the craftsmen that since this number o~ homeholds as well as in number of persons is a hereditary craft and due to illiteracy they do engaged In the craft during the last four decades. I;l0wever, the craft does not seem to be in a stagna not have any knowledge about any craft or occupa tIon stage. It has a normal and narrow flow of pro tion which they can initiate. gress. The main reason seems to be the rigid ao proach of the craftsmen towards the craft. They do Progressive Increase of the Craft-It is observed nC!t ~ant to come out from their traditional shell of that there is a normal and progressive increase in thI~tng and .approach especially the craftsmen of the number of households and persons engaged in Chltarwada village and to some extent Ratiya village the craft during the last four decades. On the other hand. the. craftsmen of Bhujodi villag~ prep.are very .attractive Items from marina wool. The The following statement presents the information detaIls !e~ardi?g the reasons reported by housebolds on households reported about the craft as a source oe for vanatlon III number of households and persons liveli~ood in th~ .past or a~ a non-lucrative job, ~ngaged in th.e -;raft during last four decades are given classified by rehglOn/ caste/trIbe/ community of tbe In the followmg statement: head of households. 134 STATEMENT majority of households from Chitarwada village. Whereas the majority of the households of Ratiya Source of livelihood by caste and religion village have stated the hereditary occupation, low production cost (as the family are mostly participating Name of village Religion & No. of Source of in the eraft) , use of good design and use of improve Caste households livelihood engaged techniques in production as the responsible factors in the Good Better for making the craft more profitable. In Bhujodi, craft more production in less time and labour, hereditary 2 3 4 5 occupation, availability of ready made yam, the growth in demand for finished product and USe of Chitarwada Hindu Wankar 20 3 17 Marina woollen yam are the reported responsible factors for making this craft more profitable. ~tiya 20 20 Bhujodi 20 8 12 It was also reported by the craftsmen of Ratiya and Bhujodi villages that the uses of designs and From the above data it appears that in Chitar improved techniques in production have considerably wada village out of 20 heads of households 5 consider helped in making the craft profitable. The techniques this craft as good source of livelihood whereas 17 practised by these craftsmen are the uses of four believe it as a better source of livelihood compared headless instead of using one or two headless used to other manual labour work. Similarly in Ratiya by craftsmen of Chitarwada. This helps in producing village all the 20 heads of households treat this design and weaving at speedy rate as compared to trl,lditional craft as a better source of livelihood traditional method, viz., inserting the weft used for whereas in Bhujodi village 12 heads of households designs by hand. consider it as better and rest of 8 as good source of livelihood. Improvement in economic position.-The state ment below presents the centrewise information about The details about factors responsible for making reasons reported by households about their improve the craft profitable and number of hou'leholds consider ment in econ,lmic position. ~t are given in the following statement. STATEMENT VI.6 STATEMENT VI. 7 Factors considered by households as responsible for making the Reasons for the improvement in economic position craft profitable Reasons reported by households about No. of households re- :Factor responsible for making the No. of household consi their imprOVement in economic posi- ported craft profitable dering it tion ------______Chi tar- Ratiya Bhujodi Chi tar- Ratiya Bhujodi wada wada _---~ ---- 1 2 3 _ 4 I 2 3 4 1 pue to hereditary occupation 16 9 16 Due to no competition from hand 2 Due to having no competition from weavers 8 hand weavers . . . 7 2 Growth in demand has increased 3 Growth in demand for finished the production 4 7 8 product 10 6 3 Overall improvement in ro!'_d and 4 Due to collective purchases of rail communication 10 12 5 raw-material 8 4 Hereditary occupation (family wor- S 4 20 5 Low production cost (as family kers) members are workers) 5 10 6 5 Introduction of new designs in pro- 6 More production in less time and duction 2 labour 5 6 Use of Marina woollen yarn 7 Due to availability of ready made yarn 3 8 Due to use of good designs 10 Above figures show that main factors responsible 9 Use of improved techniques in for the economic growth of the craft expressed by the production . . . 10 3 households of the three centres are (i) Growth in 10 Use of Marina woollen yarn 3 demand from 4 households of Chitarwada, 7 of Ratiya and 8 of Bhujodi, (ii) Overall improvement in road and rail communication from 10 households of From the above data it appears that reasons Chitarwada, 12 of Ratiya and 5 of Bhujodi, such as 'hereditary occupation', 'having no competi (iii) Hereditary occupations (as they do not engage tion from hand weavers', 'growth in demand', 'Availa outside workers) from 8 households of Chitarwada, bility of raw materials are reasons reported by 4 of Ratiya and 20 of Bhujodi. 135 The following statement indicates the various main reason for the younger generation taking interest l\::asons expressed by the head of households wanting in this craft. Moreover, they are not required to go their children to continue the craft. outside for training. Secondly, they have indepe~ dent Job. Thirdly they perform the work within the residential premises and do not require to move out. STATEMENT VI.8 Fourthly the craft is reasonably profitable than other available work in the village. The fifth reason is Iileasons expressed by the head of housebolds wanting their Cbildren that they have no sufficient education to prefer the to continue tbe craft work in other fields. Reasons for which the haed of No. of households households want tileir children to wanting their children The centrewise information about circumstances be eng,lged in the craft to continue the craft which compelled/motivated them to take the craft is Chi tar- Ratiya Bhujodi with period engaged in the craft furnished below: wada STATEMENT VI.I0 2 3 4 Number of households according to the circumstances compelling) 15 17 15 motivating to take up the occupation with tbe period engaged in the Due to hereditary occupation craft . 2 Carried out in the house itself and independent better than sla- very of service 3 4 19 Name of Motivation or No. of households take up village Compulsion the craft since 3 Lack of education does not give better service and necessary gui- Less 5-9 10-19 20+ dance for other occupation 18 17 17 than 5 years years yeats years It appears from the above data that the reasons 'due to hereditary occupation' and 'lack of education 2 3 4 5 6 doe.s not give any better opportunity' are reported by most of the households of all the three selected Chitarwada 1. Hereditary 2 is villages. Whereas 'carried out in the house itself and 2. Non-availability of independent better than slavery of services' is the main other occupation/ reason reported as many as 19 heads of households services of Bhujodi village. Ratiya 1. Heredi tary 1 1 2 16 The following statement also gives details re 2. Non-availability of garding reasons about younger generation taking other occupation/ 7 interest in the craft. services Bhujodi 1. Heredi tary 2 5 13 STATEMENT VI.9 2. Non-availability of ReasOils reported about the younger generation taking interest other occupationj in tbe craft services 2 1 4 Reasons reported about the No. of households repor younger generation taking ted (Hindu -Vankar) From the above data it appears that majority of intere~t in the craft the craftsmen of the households are continuing ibis Chi tar- Ratiya Bhujodi wada craft as same is hereditary one and so they are moti:. vated to carry out the craft. In Chitarwada village 2 3 4 all 20 households haw expressed that they are moti (i) vated to practise the craft because it is hereditary Hereditary occupation 20 18 20 occupation. In Ratiya and Bhujodi villages also alJ (ii) Independent occupation 8 9 13 households have expressed hereditary as their maiJI (iii) Process carried out in hO'l~e itself 5 6 reason for still practising the craft. Whereas 7 houle (iv) Reasonably profitable 2 6 11 holds both in Ratiya and Bhujodi village have opined (v) Due to lack of educltion unable for another r!!ason, namely, non-availability of other to do other occupation 8 5 occupation or service. The almost all households of the three selected The following statement presents the details villages expressed the hereditary occupation as the relating to the period of association witlJ the craft. 136 STATEMENT VI.ll Househods reported the period of associatien with craft - N"am3 of "illage ~teligion! i'l'().of house- l'lO. of households reported period ()f alsoeiation with the craft generations Ca~te holds associa- tion with crait tradi- 3 gene- 4 gene- 5 gene- 6 gene- 7,ene- a genc- 9 gene- 10 + tional ration ration ration ration ration ration ration gene- ration 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 i 9 10 11 ChitarwBda Hindu 20 2 1 7 8 Vankar Ratiya Hindu 20 2 6 9 Vankar Bhujodi Hindu 20 8 7 Vankar TOTAL 60 5 10 20 18 3 2 The above statement shows that out of 60 house Under the development programme for weaker holds of the three villages, 38 households have re sections, the craftsmen are given loans for their craft. ported that they are associated with this craft for It is observed that the craftsmen who have paid up {he la;?t 5 to 6 generations, 15 for the last 3 .t~ -4 their loans do not get new loans because a few crafta generations, 4 for 7 to 8 generations and remamlng men of the same villages have failed to fe-pay the 3 for the 9 and more generations. Thus, it is observed loan. They feel that for the sake of a few black that th" craftsmen of the maximum households (53) sheep they are deprived of loan facilities which of three centres are associated with the craft for the hurdles their progress. The loan distributing agencies last 3 to 6 generations. Whereas rest of 7 households should adopt some new- approach and procedure are associated since 6 and more generations. which will help the honest and sincere persons who The following statement deals with households repay the loans regularly while action under the rules reportt:G having satisfaction! dissatisfaction with the should be taken against defaulters. This will help in occupatlon (craft) with reasons thereof. fulfilling the motives for which the loans are given. STATEMENT VI.12 The households expressing satisfaction with the craft The craftsmen should be provided with acces sible and organised market for the required raw Reasons reported by households No. of households materials as well as for their finished products. They regarding their satisfaction with reported tecb the craft should be trained and motivated to adopt new Chi tar- Raliya Bhujodi niques and methods to improve their tools, imple wada - ments, product and production, etc., to suit the 2 3 4 changing demands without loosing the traditional impact of the craft. They should be made aware 20 1 Hereditary occupation 16 17 about quality control which ultimately improve their 2 Profitable occupation 19 1 10 product and production. 3 Independent occupation carried out within the dwelling house be- yond family member 5 7 10 The State Handicraft Development Corporation 4 Growth in demand and All India Handicraft Development Boards are giving awards to the master craftsman who produces 5 Non-availability of other occupa- tion 2 a item of artistic and of high standard. This is mainly done to give incentives to craftsman and to recognise The above figures indicate that the craftsmen their skil1. Now, instead of repeating the same crafts are sa1.isficd with their occupation for which the man year after year they should also give incentives reasoll 'heredi1ary occupation' is expressed by majo to other craftsmen who have reached equally at a rity of the households of the three centres. The good standard of artistic work. This will encourage second reason is mainly mentioned by Chitarwada the other artist to produce work of high standard and Bhujodi ..:cntres while the third reason is ex which ultimately reflect in improving the standard of pressed by some of the sample households of all the the craft in ga,cral, three (.entres. Taking into consideration all tbe aspects and When craftsmen get necessary market for their looking at the craft from a vintage point, one can products and finance with due encouragement for have ell glimp.>e that if necessary steps are taken to their skill, it will definitely inc[('ase the production impl (lve the craft and the craftsmen with right assist and standard or the prodUCt r..:sulting in economic ance the craft can generate scope for improvement ill prosperity which will automatically generate more employment and making it economically more sound. employment avenues. CHAPTER VII CONCLUSION 7.1 This craft is a hereditary one and has been what extent state owned handicrafts emporia and practised for the last 150 years. The economic con Khadi Grammodyog Bhavans can help by purchasing dition of the craftsmen seems to be quite satisfactory the finished products directly from the producers. and they also enjoy a good social status in the society. This will avoid the possible exploitation by middle Most of the craftsmen want their children to continue men and will also keep them working regularly for this craft as they feel that the craft is an independent the year round. Secondly production of raw wool one and they are the masters of their own. Secondly of good quality may be increased through the deve being a hereditary occupation, they get the training lopment and expansion of good quality sheep farms. about the craft from their family members and hence This will help in improving the quality and quantity they have not to move away from their families. The of wool at a reasonable rate which is a basic raw':' training comes as a daily routine and so the strain materials for this craft. of study or work is not felt. An extra advantage seems to be that all the eligible members of the Most impottant step which is earnestly required family have a chance to participate according to to be introduced is quality control and standardisa their ability and work in the house or near-by house tion of quality goods in the craft, alongwith a neces in the village itself. They are not required to make sary guidance to adopt their products to suit the a wild hunt for seeking employment for their bare modem trend without spoiling the traditional aspect exllitance. They are still able to maintain their and aesthetic sense of the craft. This will help in families and hence they do not want to leave the marketing the products of the improved quality and craft. quantity and will also have more sale. It has been observed that the craftsmen who have left the cran, have done so, mainly for the One of the problems faced by them is nsmg following reasons:- cost price of the raw-materials. An arrangements is required to be made to ensure a regular supply of 1. Non-availability of bare minimum finance raw wool and woollen yarn at a reasonable price to for purchasing the raw-material; the actual users and also at nearby places. This will 'lelp them in utilising more items on production as 2. The families in which no young male they v.:ill I!0t have to move from place to place for member is left who can do weaving work; procunng It. 3. The families in which nobody knows weaving process; Moreover, the centres where co-operative societies are not formed or where they are not func 4. Due to separation of a family, they are tioning properly, the steps should be taken to organise unable to purchase easily the necessary them and should be made to run it on sound footing. tools, equipments and raw-materials re quired for the craft; and A Co-operativ~ society can generally help in 5. The labour charges for spinning and improving the craft, the co-operative society at weaving are rauch lower than paid for agri Bhujodi is a ~ood example in this matter. culture and other labour jobs. 7.2 .The crattsmen have improved their pro The craftsmen are also facing problems in ducts dunng the last three decades with their own getting the credit facilities. A good credit system initiative. They have introduced intricate designs may be organised which will be on reasonable terml u~e of blended woollen yarns, fly shuttle looms. It i~ with simple and effective procedure. This may be in Observed that the craft has got scope for further the form of cash or in the form of supply of costly developm_ent and I? They Shullid also encourage the craftsmen of the new centres w~re luch craft is practised with other centres which are producing items of good good skill and requires necessary guidance in further artistic standard and which have potentiality of pro ducing them e.g. Chitarwada, Aniali (Bhimji) which development and financial help, so that they can also are 'till less known to others. They should find out become economically progressive. 139 GLOSSARY OP LOCAL TERMS It:: Kachchhi Kora - Type of blanket A Kamal - Type of blanket Artha Shastra - Political Economy Kamal Kali - Black kamal Asaniyas - (Sitting Carpet) Kamli - Thin type of kamal A seat made of holy materials Kanera - Present Karnatka district B Khilo - Iron peg Khilvat - Joint stitch Bagido - Medium weight blaDket Kuchado/Kangas -Sizing brush Bandhani - Tie and dye cloth Kumbhar - Potter Barot - An individual of a particular section of the caste of a bard L Betha - Thick woollen blanket Lobdi - Covering for Religious Priest Bharwad - A shepherd Ludki - Covering for Rabari ladies Bhuva - Religious priest M C Maflar - Neck covering Charkha - Spinning wheel Maldharis - Heard men Marina - Marina sheep wool Charmalia - Wearing for ladies Mela - Fair Chheda - Ends Motabhai - Elder Brother Chundadi - Tie and dye cloth given to the bride. by the bridegroom and worn at the tIme P of marriage Pankanda/Dungra - Tubourous roots (Onion shape), Scilla D officinalis. N.O. Liliacae Patiya - Type of blanket Dang - District R Darji - Tailor - Cow heard Deshi - Local Rabari Rangati - Dyer Dhabla - Blanket Dhabli - Light weight blanket s Dhusa - A kind of woollen blanket Shaiya - Bed Shawl - A shawl Dhusla - Square designs blanket Shetranji - A carpet F suthar - Carpenter - Woollen yarn Falka - Reel Suvasa Urnavati G T Galicha - A woollen carpet Tangalia - Type of blanket - Single thread Ghedva - Type of blanket Tara Tarak - Spindle Ghodi - Y shape wooden pole Tarani - Wooden stick with hook Gorpadu -Profession of a family or religious priest U H Urna - Hairy covering of any animal Hat - Weekly market V Hatho - Beating handle Valkal - Bark of trees J Jari - Golden thread w halawad - Area surrounding Surendranagar district Wankar - Weaver OMGIPN-S 1-337 R. O. Irutia/ND/aS-31-7.89- 300