T H E

GEOLOGY OF

I N EXPLAN ATI ON O F T H E

G EOGRAPH ICAL AND TOPOGRAPH I CAL

A TL A S O F N EW Z EA L A N D

ER A N . M A E N . D V H C T ET T ER A N D D R. P T R F . O N O H S .

FROM TH E S CIEN TIFI C PU BL ICA TIO N S O F TH E

N CVA RA EXPED ITIO N .

N S E B . I E R . TRA LAT Y R . F F S H D D C . C

AL S O , LECTU RES BY DR F HOUHSTETTER . .

EL IVE R E N W E LA N D D I N E Z A D .

U K N A C L A : T . E L A T T R T T E U E E N S R E E . D D , Q

T CON TEN S.

AG E P . on the Cha a of N ew Z ea and up rtogr phy l , by D r A Pe e mann . . t r

L ecture on the G eo of the P o nce of A u ckland logy r vi , by D r F H . v c s e er . . o h t tt

N ew Z ealand G e a a and G eo a S e : E ana n , ogr phic l logic l urv y xpl tio of Ma I p .

The G eological F ormation of the Southern Part of the

Prov n e of A ckland Ma II. i c u , p

Record of the heights of the Southern part of the Province of

The I m of A k and and its e n V cano Ma I I I sth us uc l xti ct ol s, p .

Rotomahana or the W a m L ake and its hot s in Ma I V ( r ) pr gs , p .

W hain aroa A ea and Ka ia ee ar o s on the W es g , ot , wh , thr h b ur t C as of the P o n e of A ckland Ma V o t r vi c u , p .

b D r F v . L ec e on th lo 0 h e P o n e of e son . e G eo t c N . tur gy r vi l , y Hochstetter

E anat n of the Ma of the Pr in e of N e son Ma VI . xpl io p ov c l , p

OBSERVATI ONS U PON TH E CH ARTOGRAPH Y OF

NEW Z EAL AND .

R M A N N A P E E . B Y D R . . T

History and Progress of the Geographical Knowledge and Chartography of New Zealand may be classified into four periods .

1642 . , The discovery by

1769 . , The investigation and survey by Cook 1 4 l 8 8 . , Survey by the English Admira ty 1 859 , Commencement of the surveys in the interior by

F ul . . von Hochstetter and J ius Haast

The Dutch navigator , Abel Jansen Tasman , discovered 1 3th 1642 i New Zealand on the December , , observ ng from the westward the clouded summits of the Southern il ’ . s a ed Alps He along the coast , passing Cook s Straits f l and the Northern Island up to the Three Kings . A though

s aw of he the greater part of the West Coast New Zealand , the result of his observations was very incomplete and erroneous, which is proved by the fact that he considered New

' of T er m A u s tr a lia I nco mm Zealand as a part the g which , n accordi g to his supposition , stretched to the far east , and was connected with the South Cape of America . ” The knowledge of New Zealand made no advance for nearly a century , until the time when Cook anchored at

B a 8th of , Poverty y, on the East Coast , on the O 1769 ctober, and it was on this his first visit and his second

1773 - 74 and third ( , that he investigated New Zealand , sailed round it , and finished a survey of its entire coast . New Zealand was visited nearly at the same time ‘ by two French —in 1769 g u r ville navigators , viz December, , by Captain , in 1772 n who and the year by the unfortu ate Captain Marion , B 4 T H E H A RT O RA PI I Y r N E W EALAN C G o Z D .

an was killed d eaten by the natives at the Bay of Islands . Neither of the expeditions added anythin g of importance to ’ r of Cook s observations o to the knowledge the country . ’ Through Cook s glorious discoveries the attention of Europe was drawn in a very marked manner to N ew Zealand . vi Whalers sited its harbours , and occasional adventurers began to settle ; but the early period of the European coloni z ation was attended only with crime and disgrace . A new and 1 8 14 better era began with the year , when Samuel Marsden founded the first Christian mission ; from that time the intercourse between the E uropeans and Aboriginals was i better regulated . A n attempt at colon zation was made in 1825 1840 the year , but it was not until that New Zealand became an English Colony . 1769 Since the time of Cook, in the year , and still more , 1814 t since that of Marsden , in , down to the Admiral y surveys 184 8 in , the literature bearing upon New Zealand is comprised f in a great number of very valuable publications , o ficial reports , works of travels , books , pamphlets of various kinds , charts and " maps . Thompson counts not less than two hundred and forty fi ’ ve . of Amongst the maps the period are Cook s surveys , the t of E detail char s separate bays and harbours , by nglish and — French naval offi cer s reckoning from North to South : Port

M on an i 4 . u . n 1 8 5 Ba g , by A H . Hallora , ; y of Islands , by M D u err e 1 824 N on odo . p y, Tutukaka Harbour and g River , by N

. i 1 837 . . C Phill ps , Mahurangi Harbour , by J A Cudlip ,

' 1 8 h r 39 34 . C afie s 18 ; Port Nicholson , by E . M , ; Manukau

Cr O 1 845 B a . 0 . Harbour , by rmsby , Torrent y and Astrolabe

1827 B . Road , by M . Guilbert, Current asin , by M Guilbert , 1 827 L Port Hardy and Port Gore, by ieutenant Moore , ’ 1 4 Chafi r s 1839 U 83 . . e ; Tory Channel , by E M , ; Port nder i 183 7 n B a Cr. wood Cloudy y, by Johnson , Harbour ,

1 840 Rou ab ou ki L . 0 . by Commander Stanley, ; Road , by ieut

D err e B a . u O . 1 839 Wilson , Dusky and Chalky y, by M p y, 1 824 . The survey of the settlement and the beautiful map 1 840 of . and its vicinity , by F . A Carrington ,

h h I 4 1 ct e . see a s t e T e S of N ew a an vol . I 3 s e . tory Z l d , , q l o — “ a e k H nd 549. o b oc s e e N ew Z ea a . l rg r w r y h t tt r l , p T E C T G P or N EW Z EALAN H HAR O RA HY D . 5

A the Harbour and City of uckland , the Capital of New

of K W aitemata Zealand, with the districts the rivers aipara , ,

W Ba Tamaki , Wairoa , aihou or Thames , Mercury y, Kawia ,

Piako , Waipa, , Manukau , Tauranga , etc . , compiled 1 842 from various sources by J . Arrowsmith , (with branch

: C of N e w maps Auckland the apital Zealand, surveyed by

‘ F - 1 841 elton Matthew , Surveyor General of New Zealan d , and a Trigonometrical Survey of the Harbour of the Waite: mata and the Isthmus which separates the waters of the

of O w Thames from those the Manukau , by Captain en Stanley , N ’ R . 1 41 . w 8 , and Felton Matthe , ) the maps of Dieffenbach s

&c. travels , by Arrowsmith , All the maps and surveys of New Zealand existing before

1 848 of , consisted disconnected fragments ; but it must be remembered that it is a country of an area of not less than t 630 square miles larger than the present Kingdom of I talyfi The important survey of the New Zealand coast w a s under

of taken by the command the English Admiralty , under the L B direction of Captain J . ort Stokes and Commander yron “ ” e Drury , in the surveying ships Acheron and Pond ra ,

of 1 84 8 18 55 and occupied a period eight years , from to , and now forms one of the most magnificent of the many produc

of B - tions the English navy . esides the above named com the f manders , following o ficers were engaged in this work

E . w . . . . B Commander G . H Richards , F . J vans , R radsha , J W

Bla ckn B . . e . . O . Smith , P W ke , R urnett , H . Kerr , T Kerr , W y, l . B F . l . . . en d r . e H E lis , A armer , C Stan ey , J M Pridham , D ,

~ H . W . m t l . of a il on . J , and C Kett e The result this survey

f - of occupies fi ty sheets , thirty three which are in the large chart formula (double elephant) . They are carefully engraved on 1850 copper , and were published in twelve years , from to 1861 in the following series —fourteen sheets were published

1 850 1 856 - 1 857 from to , twenty one sheets in the year , and 1 8 1 1 twelve from 58 to 86 . Some sheets contain several plans t in various scales , from the smallest to the larges

s In the mallest size is published the general chart ,

The a ea of N ew Z e an G man and a of I a r al d is er , th t t ly G e man m e r square il s. 6 T H T G r W E E CHAR O RAPHY o N E Z ALAN D .

— h . . t e 3 s . 6d No price , Then follow fourteen sheets of

one largest formula, which are on and the same scale of and which embrace the whole of New Z ealan d t ’ Comparing these fourteen sheets w ith Re ymann s Map of

G C on of ermany and entral Europe , the scale and ’ R e mann s supposing them divided in the same manner as y ,

e u f th y wo ld have formed exactly one hundred o such sheets .

This will give an idea of the magnitude of this survey . Of the

n fift - s ix of remaini g y nine charts and plans , are at a scale n to eleve , two , and

seventeen , three , eleven ,

to and nine , to 1 W hile , through the surveys of the Admiralty , the outlines of New Zealand were carefully and completely settled , the knowledge of the interior w as gradually developed by the surveys of the various settlements and through exploring in of expeditions , and especially the journeys

of discovery were undertaken into the interior . The account

di B 1 846 - 47 the expe tion of Thomas runner , in the year , from Nelson in a southerly direction along the coast to Tihihai

Head , was published in the Journal of the Royal Geographical

1 850 a A of m . Society , in , with a small p short account

it ’ A s all the a are a o d n M e a o e n the n e ch rts cc r i g to rc t r s proj ctio , si gl ee d ffe n a a in the a es and in u a w a a th e n o e n sh ts i r tur lly sc l , s ch y th t rth r s ections ar e 1 : a nd the southern 1 : The sections have the following number and outlines S ee 1 N o 2525 The n or e n oas f om Hok an a on the es h t , . , th r c ts r i g w t to T uku kaka on th ea e st . S e 2 o 2543 Mon anu i u ff Man kau on h W C e N . t e e a h t , , g Bl to u st o st, and from T uku kaka to M aj or Island on the E a Coas st t. 52 M a o I and to e Ba S N o . P ee 3 2 7 . h t , , j r sl ov rty y S 4 N o 521 P e B a to Ca e Pa l e ee . 2 . h t , , ov rty y p l is r ’ N 2054 C oo a an d C a to Ca E S ee 5 . k S e m n h t , o , s tr it o st p g o t . 2535 an a a ou to a e E n S ee 6 N o . M k H C m o h t , , u u rb r p g t. ’ o 1 Ca e ou lw ind to D r ill I S ee 7 N . 26 6 F U v e and nc u d n h t , , p sl , i l i g ind and M a c a Bl ssa re B ys . ’ 2 2 Ca C m e to n S ee 8 N o . 5 9 e a a k Pen n u a h t , , p pb ll B s i s l . S e e N 25 2 N n e M e e ac to O ' 9 o . 3 O ta o . h t , , i ty il s B h e 1 N 2533 O a to M a au a e an d k I S e 0 o . R R ua e s an . h t , , t go t r iv r pu l d ’ e 11 N o 2 5 F n d I S e . 5 3 ov eau x S a a S e a s land h t , , tr it t w rt s . S ee 12 N O 25 9 F ov e au x S a to A a u R . 8 a e h t , , tr it w r iv r. ee 1 N o 2590 A a u a to A H S . R 3 e ead . h t , , w r iv r but Shee 14 N O 25 91 A Head to Ca e F ou lwin d t , . , but p . T he f e is 2s d . ( price o each sh et . 6 ) C T G P or N EW Z EA LA N D TH E HAR O RA HY . 7

’ L Dashwood and Mitchell s tour from Nelson to yttelton , along 1851 with a small map , appeared in the volume for . J . T . ’ Thompson s account and map of what is now the Province of 1 5 8 8 E . Southland in the volume for . Stanford published L 1 856 of ondon , in the year , a map of the Province Canter bury , showing freehold sections and p asturage runs ; scale ,

J . Arrowsmith published two editions of his map of — New Zealand on a scale of one dated July, 1 85 185 1 8 . , the other , July , f h o . With the explorations and surveys F v . Hoc stetter 1859 and J . Haast (which were commenced in , and are still unfinished) , began a new epoch in the geographical know " N ot nl ledge and chartography of New Zealand . o y have n their labours enlarged the existi g knowledge , but they have thr own quite a new light on the geological and topographical condition of the interior , as hitherto the topographical con figuration of the country has been much neglected by the ni of colo al surveys . The general map this work (Map in ’ ’ the completion of which H ochs tetter s and H aast s observa tions have been used for the first time , will show at the first glance how much our former conception of New Zealand is

. O enlarged and corrected f course , on it the observations of many others also have been recorded . The progress of the chartography of N ew Zealand is best ’ i shown in the various editions of Arrowsmith s maps , of wh ch — 1 841 1851 1858— there are three , , and which were compiled from official and other documents existing at those times . 1841 The edition of contains nothing but a coast line , and this — very imperfect here and there an error of half a degree ; in the interior are only a few roughly noted lakes , rivers , and a 1851 in com mount ins . In the edition of the coast , if yet lete p , is corrected after the marine surveys , and the interior B t n 1858 is filled up . u the editio of contains many additions

A D Ha as G eo o of the P o nce of Can e r e . J . r port by r t , l gist r vi t rbu y, a ed 3r d of Ma 1863 d e e his a e ra e and u e of the d t rch , , scrib s l t st t v ls s rv ys S n T a e e had ene a ed n the e e on of outher A lps . his tr v ll r p tr t i to upp r r gi the M neau R e m a ni fi en ake Wanaka and Ha ea to oly x iv r, with its g c t l s w , the We C as and d e ed a as the c a n of A l at an st o t , iscov r p s through h i ps ( eva n of n fee e een the W anaka L ak e and the A a a l tio o ly t, b tw w ru E r 1ve . 8 T H E GE OLO G or K N D Y AUC LA .

of importance . The most complete map published before ours D 1 861 appeared in the espatch Atlas , March , , in two sheets , and at a scale of 1 : 1 9 00000 and 1 : According to our map the area of New Zealand may be

at estimated according to planimetric calculation ,

2041 6 m or North Ger an , Eng . sq . miles . South 26277 Stewart ’s Island 3 3 3 7 07 8

4 702 6

L ECTU RE ON TH E G EOLOGY OF TH E PROVI NCE OF

U A CKLAND .

BY D R. F . O H O CH STETTER V N .

’ Delivered to the emb ers of the u ckl and echanics ns itute June 24 " M A M I t , ,

PRESI EN T L A IES A N D G EN LEMEN MR . D , D T , ’ The members of the Auckland Mechanics Institute having done me the honour to elect me as honorary member of their insti tu tion C m L , and the om ittee having invited me to give a ecture

G of upon the eology this Province, I have much pleasure in

o . c mplying with their request It is, however, with some

F rom English sources the area and circumference of N ew Z ealand has been estimated at

S U RF ACE . CI RCU MF E REN CE or C ST OA .

— — A — - Mls . ea Miles e S . S f Acr s q f fi N orth Island Middle Island ’ Stewart s I sland 120

The area of N ew Z ealand is acres less than the area of G reat B ritain an d Irelan d the N orthern I sland is 1 - 32nd sm al ler than England the Middle Island is 1 - 9th smaller than Englan d an d Scotland combin ed ac e 2 - 3rds O f c ar e e ma ed fit for a c u e the r s , or , whi h sti t gri ult r es is made u of im a s a e m o n a n and - flats am ake and r t p p s bl u t i s, s , sw ps, l s, i ” i e de N e Z ea and J H e e . . V w . c r v rs l , by . v o hst tt r ) H E or A CK AN T U L D . 9

a hesitation that I undertake this t sk, feeling that my imperfect knowledge of the English language will prevent my making the short sketch I wish to lay before you as interesting as it might i . am otherwise have been Notwithstanding th s drawback, I glad to have this opportunity of giving the inhabi tants of this

of hi r és umé Province, through the members t s Institute, such a as I can of the chief results of the G eological Survey I have made of those parts of the country I have visited.

ow e I feel this, indeed, to be a duty I to the community at in t large, re urn for the very kind reception that has everywhere been given me— for the ready help that has always been afforded — by all whom I have met with and for the interest that has been shown by all in the proceedings of the Imperial A ustrian

Novara Expedition .

of Having, in the months January and February, completed

a nd G of my Survey, finished a eological Map, the Auckland — — D istrict which I now have the pleasure of showing you the necessityar ose formy choosing either the N or ther n or the S ou tfiem

of for portion the Province my further researches, my limited stay in New Zealand rendering it impossible for me to make a uf s ficient examination in both directions . I did not hesitate to choose the Southern districts- for these

r i reasons . that the count y over wh ch I should there proceed, is v inhabited almost exclusi ely by Maoris, and has hitherto been

n 1 a hicall almost u known and totally unsurveyed, both topog p y and

l r on geo ogically. The Northern dist icts, the contrary, are for

t of the mos part better known, and from the number European settlers in them, I was led to hope I should be enabled to collect some information through specimens forwarded to me for exami n m n natio , and fro the verbal descriptio s of those who are well acquainted with the various localities .

n ot in My hope was unfounded either respect . I have received many specimen s of interest from various v iff localities also some aluable information from d erent settlers ,

R ev . G . and . especially from my friends, the A Purchas and Mr .

C few r t . Heaphy, who in the last months have had oppo unities of s n of n vi iti g several parts of the Northern portion this Provi ce,

of h and collecting very valuable specimens . In addition to t is

a n es eci must be remembered the f ct, that other scie tific men, p 10 T H E GEOLOGY or C AN D AU KL .

D f D . a ally MM ief enbach and na, had already visited and

decribed s at length some part of the Northern country. Th rough the liberality and excellent arrangements of the G n G eneral and Provi cial overnments, I have been enabled in a comparatively short time to travel over and to examine the l larger portion of the Province South of Auck and, extending

far L V as as ake Taupo and Tongariro olcano, the boundaries ’ betw een this Province and those O f W ellington and Hawke s B a . y I have thus obtained materials which will enable me, on

m G eolo y return to Europe, to construct a Topographical and

ical of g Map the central part of the Northern Island .

r w D My obse vations have, ith the able assistance of Mr. rum W C th mond Hay, extended from the East to the est oast and e n u merous peaks and ranges have afforded facilities for fixing

n of ma netic hea r in s with satisfactory accuracy, by mea s g g , on the basis of points previously fixed by the nautical survey of

D on - u C . apt rury the coast line, all the great nat ral features of

of of b r m this portion the country. A great number a o etr ica l obs er va tions have afforded me the means of ascer taining the

of n hic heights mountains and plains in the i terior, w h I shall

O f n be able to calculate with accuracy by the aid . correspo ding

n n C n w ho daily observatio s, take in Auckland by olo el Mould,

of a has kindly forwarded me a copy his t bles . I have also obtained p hotogr ap hic and other vie ws of great

of interest, many which were taken by the gentlemen who accompanied me on the e xpedition for this purpose and a large number of exceedingly valuable sketches have been contributed

a of ou r . C. a by the t lented pencil president, Mr He phy, for

of future publication in a geological atlas . Many these are

the decorating the walls and others are lying on table, and I shall be happy to Sho w them to any ladies and gentlemen who may f a t o . feel any interest in seeing them , the conclusion the lecture

lle tions r ow m My co c have been g g from day to day, and inclu de specimen s of great interest in most branches of Natural

f of History . I owe a great deal to the inde atigable zeal my

- in friend and fellow traveller, Mr. J . Haast, who assisted me collecting during our expedition . I am also much indebted to

f W . . of C . Mr . J . raw ord at ellington, Mr A S Atkinson Tara ’ Tri hook of Ba of naki, Mr. p Hawke s y, Mr. H . T . Kemp the T H E GEOLO GY or C D AU KLAN . 1 1

Ba of a s M s y Isl nd , to the is ionaries, and to almost innumerable

friends in Auckland .

PREL IMIN AR Y REMARKS .

I cannot suppose that all my audience are acquainted with

of G h the first principles eology. I shall t erefore be under the

of f necessity, in order to make my report intelligible, pre acing a few remarks upon the chief divisions of the geological for mations . al The various rocks, soils, and miner s which occur upon the

O f or it— in surface the earth, at various depths beneath one ’ of ear th s cr u s t — word, the materials the are classified, in the

ffe ori in or in first place, with reference to their di rent g , , other f words, with reference to the dif erent circumstances and causes i by which they have been produced . They are div ded intof our

— P la tonic M etamor hic A u eou s Volcanic great classes , p , q , and

of rocks . Another mode classification is with reference to their — a e of . g that is, to the comparative periods their formation d Those di visions will be easily understoo .

P la tonic r anites s enites The rocks comprehend all the g , y , — or h ries dior ites p p y , rocks which agree inbeinghighly crystalline, u nstratified u of a — , and destit te org nic remains which are con sider ed as of n in of ig eous origin, formed the earliest periods the earth, in great depths, and cooled and crystalised slowly under great pressure .

M etamor hic or h The p rocks are the crystalline strata, sc ists,

neiss mica - s chi s t or mica - s la te chlor ite-s chis t hor n called g , , , ,

- — o of blende s chis t als destitute organic remains . According to the most probable theory, these strata were originally deposited

of from water in the usual form sediment, but were subsequently s o altered by subterranean heat, as to assume a new texture . The two first classes of rocks are u sually found in Such a position that they form the foundation on which the aqueous

F or t . rocks were af erwards superimposed instance, they com

or of on of pose the central line a range mountains, both sides

. to which sedimentary rocks are deposited Thus, in reference

a e h and their g , t ey are considered as the oldest, are therefore i e called also P ri mit v . There are exceptions to this rule in reference to the age of 12 TH E GEOLOGY or CK N D AU LA .

o B ut certain pl utonic rocks f erzgotive character . I am now d stating only general principles, and therefore avoi all questions i leading to scient fic discussions . — The next in order are the A ga eoa s rocks the production of

. s edi mentar watery action They are also called g rocks, from the fact that they a r e the hardened sediments accumulated at the

of s ea of f - te bottom the or resh wa r lakes. They are stratified, or di of for c vided into distinct layers strata as, example, lay slate, marl, sandstone, , and are divided into three

ar enaceous or s iliceous a r illaceou s cla e kinds, called , g or g g, and — ca lcar eou s or cha lky according to the respective predominance

of i or . silica, alum na, lime Rocks of this class cover a larger ’ r of e f of e pa t the arth s sur ace than any others, and are the gr atest interest on account of the orga nic remains which are found imbedded in the different strata.

There are tw o principal means O f ascertaining the relative age o — one os ition h f aqueous rocks derived, the from their p , the ot er from thef os sil r emains t hey contain. — W ith reference to p osition the bed which lies uppermost is

the of m Of course newest all, and that which lies at the botto , the most ancient .

to ossils s o W ith reference the f , it is not easy to give a n explanation in few words ; but some idea may be formed from the

- a v for well ascert ined fact, that certain animals ha e existed a certain period, and then wholly disappeared and been succeeded

of ff hi in by other animals a di erent species, w ch, turn, have agai n given place to others .

C L of di So, as Sir harles yell truly says, a series se mentary formations is like volumes of history, in which each writer has

e of own record d the annals his times, and then laid down the book with the last written page uppermost. And the organic

l r D r . ex ess es it remains are, as Mantell beautiful y p , the coins ' ” C u s of o Of reation, which give the means tracing the history f the development of the organic kingdoms . h Thus, by superposition and by t eir organic remains, the a to queous rocks are divided into groups forming, in reference “ ” t e o r n heir age, what is term d an ascending series, beginni g w in f ith the oldest, the ollowing manner G OLOG or A C AN D 1 3 T H E E Y U KL .

or 1 . Primary formations periods 2 . Secondary 3 . Tertiary

4 uar tar . Q y

I n reference to the word qu ar tary I may explain that,

l u s e although it is not an English word, I take the iberty to it ” of in the sense of post tertiary, as following the analogy the

other terms . Each of those formations is again di vided into numerous

on . minor systems, which I have no time to enter The fourth and last great divisions of rocks are the volca nic

— B B and f — as Trachyte, asalt, reccia, Tu f all produced by

or supramarine submarine volcanic eruption . It is ascertained that the earliest true volcanic eruptions have occurred subs e d quently to the Secondary perio , commencing in the Tertiary, an d continu ing to the present time ; and there is a marked dif

the ference between older and the more recent eruptions . I have prepared a diagram which will serve to impress these

s o first principles upon your memory, and enable you to follow me in the account I have to give DI AG RAM.

11 . . O Age rganic Remains . Plutonic and Primiti ve fossfls No . Metamorphic rocks formation .

ri P mary.

Secondary. F ossilfer ous Aqueous . r Te tiary .

r ar Qu a t y. t Trachy ic . Volcanic No . Basaltic .

s W ith these preliminary remark , I now proceed to the main

subject of my lecture .

N GEOLOGY O F TH E PROVIN CE O F AUCKLA D .

The first striking characteristic of the G eology of this Pro vince— and probably of the whole of the Northern Island of New — Zealand is the a bs ence of the p rimitive p la tonic and metamor

- hic f and the . I p ormations, as , gneiss, mica slate, like 14 TH E GEOLOG or C A N D Y AU KL .

b ' have been informed y Mr. Heaphy that these rocks are of

- in wide spread extent the Middle Island, forming mountain of a l ranges great ltitude, covered with perpetua snow, and in C f reaching Mount ook probably to eet. The rocks Of these formations contain the principal metallic riches of the n earth . Therefore we can ot ho pe to find these riches de veloped in the highest degree in the Northern Island ; but as other f n f ormations also contain metalliferous vei s, there may be ound

many mines worth working in the rocks I am about to describe.

I — I . P F ORMA T ON RIMARY .

The oldest rock I have met with in the Province of Auck

the r ima r or ma ion is of land belongs to p g f t . It very variable

— t a O f character some imes being more rgillaceous, a dark blue n colour (whe decomposed, yellowish brown, the colour generally

on f t presented the sur ace, ) and more or less distinctly stra ified — like clag s la te (at Mar aitai on the W aitemata) at other times n t the siliceous eleme preponderates, and, from the admixture of

has r ed — — at oxide of iron, the rock a , jasper like appearance ( i W aiheki . d s , Manganese Point ) In other localities it is more

tin ctl O ld y arenaceous, resembling the Sandstones of the Silurian

D u — at on and evonian Systems, called Gra wacke ( Taupo, the

Hauraki G ulf. ) As no fossils have yet been found in t his formation in New

Zealand, it is impossible to state the exact age I am, however, of opinionZthat these argillaceous siliceous rocks will be found to

Correspond to the oldest Silurian strata of Europe. The existence and great extent of this formation are of con

r ble a ll the meta ll erous side a importance to this Province, as if

hi or vein s therto discovered, likely to be hereafter found, occur

in rocks of this formation .

Co er - r i tes n To these rocks belong the pp pg , which has bee worked for some years at the Ka wa a and G r ea t B ar r ier — the M anganes e (Psilomelan) at W aihelri~ and the G old- bearing ’ uar tz Cor onia nael q at . The which is washed ou t from beds of quartz - gravel in the rivers and creeks flowing down from both sides of Coro m n v df of a l andel ra ge, is deri e rom quartz veins, cryst line char i acter and considerable thickness, runn ng, in a general direction

16 H E G OLO G r D T E Y o AUCKLAN .

The Coa l B erle at Coromandel occurring between strata of

of a s trachytic breccia are too thin to be any value, and the

f a ormation is absent, there is no ground for hoping th t a workable

b e seam may found . f The primary ormation occurs, to a more considerable extent,

of the to the eastward Of Auckland, in ranges on both sides W a ir oa r iver attaining an altitude O f feet above the sea

an d f W aiheki K striking rom thence northwards, over and awau,

Ba of h rl i n . S ou t e v to the y Isla ds In a direct on, they extend,

the H an a wera Ta u iri W through g and p ranges, across the aikato, — through the H alcar ini a ta and H a utu r u range parallel with

the W C - W est oast to the Mokau district, where, at airere, the Mokau river falls in a magnificent cascade over a lofty pre

cipice of that rock . The same formation occurs again in the R angitoto mounta in

011 U W a W of T uhu a the pper ipa, and est Taupo lake in the

But mou ntains . the most extensive range of primary rocks is that which commences near W ellington under the name of

Ta a a a R uawa hine h - di r r and , and runs in a nort easterly rection

of of Ka nna nawa to the east shore Taupo lake, under the name , in which rises the principal source of the W aikato— there called

f of Tongariro river. The range continues rom the shores Taupo

- a n C lake, in a north e sterly directio , to the East ape, under the

of e h i i a principal name T w a t . This lofty and extensive mount in — range— the true backbone of the Nort hern Island with peaks

000 I n 6000 7 . from to feet, is entirely unknown this range

P la tonic lll eta mor hic the and p rocks, yet unknown in the Nor

ther n . Island, may perhaps be found Nearly all the primary ranges are covered with dense virgin

h r e of . forests, whic ender them extr mely difficult access It must be left to the labour and enterprise of future years to dis

m of cover and develop the ineral riches, the existence which

l l character is appears to be probable, not on y from the geologica

O f few L a tics the country, but also from some specimens Of e d and Copper or e that have from time to time been picked up by the Natives .

is one of of It remarkable that, while the oldest members the

f s o primary ormation is found extensively in New Zealand, the

t as s s la er strata the DevonianJ Carboniferous3 and Permian T H E GE OLO GY or AUCKLAN D . 17

r a n — on te ns, ppear to be altogether wanti g while, the other

n of m hand, in the neighbouring Conti ent these embers

the of primary period, together with plutonic and metamorphic r ocks ' con stitute r , , so far as we know, almost the principal pa t h of t e continent.

— II ECON AR T I N . . S D Y FORMA O

A very wide interval occurs between the primary rocks of the Northern Island and the next sedimentary strata that I met

of with . Not only the u pper members the primary series are

of absent, but also nearly the whole the Secondary formations . The only instance of s econdary s trata that I have met with con sis ts of very regular and highly - inclined beds of marl alternating

n of with micaceous sandstone, extending to a thick ess more — than 1000 feet which I first saw on the South head of the

W i and on of a kato, afterwards met with the western shore K hi aw a harbour . These rocks possess great interest from the fact that they

of contain remarkable specimens marine fossils, which belong C exclusively to the secondary period, especially ephalopods of

A mmonite B elemnite of B e lem the genera and , several Species

i e n f n t o Ca na tic la ti. , all belongi g to the family the a These are the first specimen of those genera which have been discovered in / r e ions of B for the g Australasia . oth fossils have been known 4 centuries by ou r ancestors in the O ld W orld— the Ammonite as

of B of the horn Jupiter Ammon, and the elemnite as the bolts

G od of h . T e in the Thunder latter, though now first seen the

Antipodes by Europeans, have long been known to the Natives — of Kawhia by a much less dignified name the Old wa rrior

f N uitone te P uloar a n chie , , having told me that the sto es I

S so d ar e prized O much and collected gree ily, nothing more than ’ r olee- lcana e fis , which means the excrement of the h commonly ’ known among the settlers by the name of mullet. In reality, B the elemnite belongs to a creature, long since extinct, which

—fish was allied to the now living cuttle . Secondary rocks may probably be found in some other parts

O f W C and the est oast, occur as I have been kindly inf01 med by — R ev . . G . H a r the A Purchas, in the b ou i of Hokianga bu t everyw hei e of limited supe1 ficial extent 18 T H E GEOLO GY or C AN D AU KL .

— I T III . TERT AR I N Y FORMA O S .

now of of I proceed to speak the Tertiary period, strata

i of wh ch, of very various characters, occupy a large portion the

ar f the Northern Island. The various tertiary strata e ound for

— a f f most part in a horizontal position remarkable act, rom which we may conclude that even the numerous volcanic crup tions which took place during and after the period of their , had not power enough to dislocate the whole system,

o but merely to pr duce local disturbances . The tertiary period must be divided into two distinct forma

h n E ocene tions, which may per aps correspo d to the European i f and M ocene. There is an Older formation which is ound

011 W C on principally the est oast, and in the interior, both sides o f a n d one w the primary ranges, a newer hich may be called the

u ckla nd Ter tia r F orma tion A y . Y ou will probably b e interested to have some more minute description of the different strata of the older Of these forma

B r own - Coa l tions , as to this belong the seams, to the discovery of which I am indebted for the opportunity of investigating the

G l of on t of eo ogy this Province, and the intelligen working which I believe very much of the future welfare Of this Province depends .

B r own- Coa l F or ma tion of The is a very considerable extent,

rt of both in the No hern and Middle Islands New Zealand, and

f m e is O si ilar character everywher . Some months ago I furnished a report on the Coalfield in the

of D n neighbourhood Auckland, in the rury and Hu ua districts, of D which I will repeat here the principal points . The rury coal belongs to a very good sort of brown coal - to the s o - called f G la nz hohle . w as to , with conchoidal racture I not able convince

of the of ff on e v myself existence di erent series of seams, abo e

ff am of the other, on di erent levels . I much rather opinion

d its ff that the same seam, isturbed at level, occurs at the di erent f D . localities in the rury and Hunua district, where coal is ound The average thickness O f that coal seam may be estimated to ’ t ix f The a t F allw ell s amount o s eet . section of the seam Mr f arm can be taken as a fair average.

of h The seam consists there t ree portions, the upper part a

n of one lami ated coal inferior quality, foot then a band of r u n GEOLOGY or AUCKLAN D . 19

the d of on e shale, two inches 5 mi dle part coal a good quality, a nd f of u a hal feet 5 then a band bitumino s shale, six inches 5

t the I the lowes part coal of best quality have seen, two and a

f h of the hal feet . Thus the w ole thickness coal itself may be

T he considered to amount to about fi ve feet . bituminous shale

n f accompanying the coal contai s ossil plants, principally leaves of e is f f f D icotg/l dones . It remarkable that no ossil erns are ound in D - so connection with the rury coal beds 5 it is the more , as at

i I — on W C the other local ty which must mention the est oast,

m fro m W — onl f f in seven iles aikato Heads y ossil erns, a most

a a r e beautiful state of preserv tion, imbedded in gray argillaceous

an d of strata, alternating with sandstone small coal seams

h i a e D u probably t e same geolog cal g as the rury coal . A co si dera ble u m f n ber of specimens rom both localities will, by a f t f for uture examina ion, urnish the opportunity determining the principal features of the flora of the B r azen Coa l P er iod in N e w

Z ea la nd.

u m in The g found the coal is a kind of Retinite,

f n f e K derived rom a co i erous tre , perhaps related to the auri 5

w K G u m but it is by no means identical ith the auri , which is only found in the surface soil in those localities where

f um there have been kauri forests . The ossil g and kauri

u m ff h as m g are very di erent in t eir qualities, the ost simple

n in experime ts their ignition will show . The thickness of the forest and the inaccess ability of the

n a an the cou try prevent our now scertaining, in exact manner,

of D - field extent the rury coal . Still, the existing openings show

an extent of the coal - fi eld quite large enough to encourage any

Company to work the coal in an extensive manner.

I l C of am g ad to hear that a ompany, under the name The ” W aihoihoi C C and oal ompany is formed, to begin the

of working this coal . The same kind of coal I s aw again on the northern slope of

'

Ta u ir i H a ka r ima ia r a n e. I i n a kz a on the f p and g At p w , le t of W I f 15 0 bank the aikato, examined a beauti ul seam about

of h n of ea feet above the level t e river . The thick ess the s m then exposed was about 15 feet 5 how much g reater the thick

sa a s the has ness may be it is impossible to y, floor never been

uncovered . T H E n 20 E o o o e r or AUC KLAN D .

This is the s eam to which the attention of the i nhabitants of

th R v Auckland was directed several years ago by my friend e e .

I e r a e a t G . u , e A . P rchas b lieve s ve l tons w re that time brought to Auckland 5 but owing to various circumsta n ces the

Chief o f which was the Nati ve o w ners hip - the hop e of oh

f m n f r n w d taining a supply ro the ce o Auckla d a s abandone . No

n e b e f fo r better positio could, how ver, ound mining purposes 5 and the day cannot b e f ar d istant when it will be worked to

’ ‘ ' supply fuel for the s tea m n a vzga l ion of zlzc W a ilca to— fl ze ma in a r he r vi e o A nc la J /ery of t P o nc f le n . l I have reason to believe that a Coal Fie d of considerable e xtent exists on the borders of the w ide plains on both sides of the W i —for w aikato, between Taupiri and Mangatawh ri hich

r u t o n e e I the r dist ict, sh in all sid s by rang s, propose gene al

r l of l e l ower TVai/ca fo B a s in geog aphica name .

A third coal - field exists on the W estern a n d Southern bounda ries of the very fertile alluvial plains above the j unction of the W W a m a i as aipa and ikato, which y be dist nguished “ — T i m I ll iddlc I Vailca to B a s in the f al nr e gr a na ry of the i of h a d Northern port on t is Isl n . The localities in which coal has been discove red are the fol

—in the H ohin i a n a n W of Kar aka riki on lowing p g ra ge, est

T ' the. W a n e r Mohoa nu i “ a itaihe e in the ipa 5 a and , Hauturu range on the upper b ranches of the W a ipa. 5 and aga in in the W ha w ha r u a a n d Parepare ranges on the Northern side of

n i t R a g to o mountains .

T H E N E Z N D B R N W EALA OW COAL .

The following a r e the resul ts of s evera l analyse s o f speci

e o f the D r u r B r own Coa l a n h m ns y , sent to Engl nd some mo t s a o T h f m g by Mr Turnbull . e analyses have been orwarded to e by hI r Fa rmer

L ab o rator v G , Museum of Practical eology,

- 5 1 n A 3 9. J er n n st. L 1 18 y , ondo , pril ,

S ir — I of the e , have completed the analyses coal (lignit ) w h f the u f hic you le t at Muse m , and herewith urnish you with

of the a the results ex mination .

I am , Sir, yours obediently, S B r CH . Y . own, Esq A TOOKE T H E G EOL O G Y O F AUCKLAN D . 21

" ‘ -centa e com os ition L i nii e r om P er g p of g , f

W ater

100' 00

T h t of e amoun sulphur is small, and this will be a point for favourable consideratio n in the application of the ' coal for

e The of l smelting purpos s . whole the water is expel ed at a 2 ° i temperature of 1 0 cent grade .

D G as W undee orks, 1 185 7 9. March ,

A o A uc la n oa na lys is f k d C l.

of of u f Produce gas per ton coal carbonized, c bic eet .

e of Illuminating pow r gas, D urability the length of time that a 41- inch j et requires

' bi as 5 3 a cu c . consume foot of g , minutes

495 . Specific gravity,

" f er o D . Produce coke p ton, carbonized, i cwt N K H . A Y (Signed) JO Z ,

G as C Engineer ompany .

G as W B w orks, er ick, 12 1 5 8 9. March ,

JVcw Z a l d a e a n Co l.

G a s in e of , cubic f et , per ton coal,

in l C er of bs . oke, p ton coal, ,

T r r f in b 5 a e o l s . 7 l . and ammoniacal liquor, p ton coal, , f i l f V a o n bs . o 3 4 8 . lue of gas, per ton coal, sperm ,

O n e t of a s 2 fi shtail cubic foo g , burned in a No . burner

s et union ), equal sperm candles, V of on e of 3 alue cubic foot gas, in grains of sperm , 7 0 2 22 rr a n G G or N D EOLO Y AUCKLA .

C trable t of oke, , re ains the granular structure the coal 5 dis integrates when exposed to air 5 during combustion gives ou t

little heat 5 and leaves a large mass of stone- coloured ash ;

r specific g avity, Combustible matter Composition S ilica and alumina iProtoxide of iron

10000

This coal is well adapted for the purpose of gas manufacture 5

t is w f the quan ity produced not large, but you ill observe o a

of in high quality, approaching several the Scotch cannels

illuminating power. The coke is of very inferior quality for heating purposes 5 but the quantity of iron share found in it is s o great that it may

ou t t of possibly turn to be a produc value.

A T T N JAMES P ERSO , C ivil Engineer .

I s u bj oin comparative average analyses of three principal

fr m D kinds of fuel, o which it may be seen that the rury coal is precisely similar to the European brown in the propor tion of its three principal constituents Bro wn Black Coal C W ood . oal . and Anthracite . Carbon 5 14 to 5 5 to 7 G 73 to 96 5 1 O xygen 43 42 26 19 23 3 Hydrogen 6 5 5 4 3 5 5 05

I embrace the opportunity of saying a few words on the l commer cia l va lu e a nal app lica bility of tli e b w Z ea la nd B r o wn

Coa l.

of f Although entirely dif erent character, and, generally

i of for speak ng, inferior value, to the older coals of the Primary

I s ee of oa mation, cannot any reason why this kind c l should n ot be used in New Zealand for the same purpose as a similar

of brown coal is extensively applied to in various parts Europe,

t G n h u for and par icularly in erma y, w ere it s pplies the fuel

of s t a manufactures all kind , for locomotives and s e mers, and for f m of domestic purposes . I am perfectly a iliar with this kind

24 T H E G G or N D EOLO Y AUCKLA .

fac f if uc d n body, and the manu ture itsel , properly cond te , can ot fail to be remunerative . It may be interesting to you to know “ ” that the far —famed Bohemian Porcelain is burned by means of

- l f of in 90 e . brown coa , rom a seam , some places, feet thickn ss W hile stating the uses to which brown coal may be applied, I mu st warn you against thinking that it is suitable for steamers

a s ea h having to m ke long voyages . The bulky nature of t e “ ” brown - coal will always prevent such steamers taking it on ” b - B . u t the board when they can procure lack coal , on

- the a other hand, its qualities as a gas producing coal, as bove

w n analyses sho , will re der it valuable as an article of export .

n ow s of t a I come to another eries the older Ter iary strat , examples of which are found occurring in great regularity on

r the W est Coast from W aikato to Kawhia . The lowest a e

— t he — u argillaceous middle, calcareous the pper, arenaceous .

t the fi cla e s tr a ta The charac eristics of rst y y are, a light grey

few f a nd colour, very ossils, small crystals of iron pyrites h l glauconitic grains, w ich give these c ay marls a similarity to

' ‘ the G ault and G reen sands of the formation in

ar e on of Europe. They found the Eastern branches

h in ar oa K W a . g , Aotea, and awhia harbours

O f s an d greater intere t importance are the calcareous strata,

of limes tone of consisting tabular , sometimes a conglomerate

t of nature, some imes more crystalline, the whole mass which is

of of and or a min er ae formed fragments shells, corals, f if ,

of ae interspersed with perfect specimens terebratul , oysters and

an d . pectens, other shells This limestone, when burned, makes

for excellent lime, and may be wrought and polished architectural purposes .

O f L CO O er The beds imestone worked by Messrs . Smith and p ,

W a f as a the in the iroa district, belong to this ormation, do lso rich fossiliferous strata from the W aikato Heads to wards

Kawhia Harbour.

of the n i Picturesque columnar rocks same ature, look ng

as if a almost they were artificially built of tabular blocks, dorn the entrance to W haingar oa Harbour 5 a nd the romantic t and C of R akau n —a limes one scenery, the fine aves the ui river — branch of Kawhia Harbour ar e deservedly prized by the settlers of Kawhia Harbour . N 25 T H E G EOLO G Y or AUCKLA D .

The Limestone Formation attains its greatest thicknes s (from

5 00 f e in U lVai a I MO /ca n d 400 to e t) the pper p and istrict, in between the R angitoto ra nge and the W est Coast. It has

fe this country many remarkable atures . No o n e can enter without admira tion the Stalactite Caves of

' a - a r i- a r i an d o f P a r ia ncu a nezca T a n at Hangatiki, near the

f a f h of t d sources o the W ipa the ormer aunts the gigan ic M e . I went into those caves in the hope of meeting with a rich

of d n harvest skeletons, but I was sadly isappoi ted, those who had been before me in the days of Moa enthusiasm having

° O ff ves ti e of G r a w a r . m c r ied every g a bone e t, ho ever, was y

u f n in d a labo r, and not little my satis actio , r gging out the head - less an d leg - less skeleton of a Moa from beneath the dust an d of a n ree di filth old raupo hut The Maoris, seeing the g “ w old ness with hich the pakehas hunted after Moa bones,

n f fin d a n d have lo g since care ully collected all they could , — deposited them in some safe hiding - pla oe waiting for the oppor tu nit of for of h y exchanging them pieces gold and , s owing thus how well they have learned the lesson tau ght them by the example of the pakeha . T he subterranean pass ages of the rivers in the P elziop e an d flf a ir oa the district are highly characteristic of limestone formation .

fi s su r ed ar e r The limestone rocks, and channeled, penet ated by

w ater ' a 11 d the u the , the streams run below limestone pon the

f a sur ace of the argillaceous strat , which I have before mentioned

a of as underlying the limestone . This lso explains the scarcity water on the limestone plateau which divides the sources of the

lVaipa and Mokau rivers . The plateau is covered with a

w o a n splendid gro th f gr ss, and would form an excelle t cattle

run but for the deep fun nel - sh a ped holes which everywhere ”

l tome . a bound. The Natives ca l them They are similar to w in in n the holes hich occur the limestone downs E gland, and

the K a o n the of the G on arst mount ins shores Adriatic ulf, where

r t ( lol ne they a e calle i s . The third a nd u ppermost s tratum of the older tertiary

of of f f s a nds tone formation consists beds fine ossili erous , in i d which qu an ies of good bu lding stone may be foun . There a r e whole ranges parallel to the primary moun ta ins which seem

of h an m n the Ta i to consist t is s dstone. I will ention o ly p u E L O G Y or N 26 T H E G O AUCKLA D . w hone a 2000 the r nge, about feet above the level of sea, in which

W han n u i is the pass from the Mokau to the ga country . W h n o ithout a map on a large scale, which I ave had time to

u 11O W prepare, it would be seless to enter more minutely into a description of the various localities in which the different h f . ormations occur I may, owever, mention that limestone and

- f in of d brown coal have been ound places to the North Aucklan ,

r f C r C in the dist icts rom ape Rodney to the No th ape . The horizontal beds of sandstone and marls which form the

ff W a itemata cli s of the , and extend in a Northerly direction K f towards awau, belong to a newer tertiary ormation, and,

l of i i of . instead coa , have only thin layers lign te A character stic feature of this A uckla n d ter tia ry f or ma tion is the existence of

of w h inter s tr atified beds volcanic ashes, hich are here and t ere l with the ordinary tertiary ayers .

sa on m f I must y no more the tertiary sedi entary ormations, in order that I m ay leave some time to devote to the volca nic

h h f i t e formations, w ic , rom the r great exten and the remarkabl

e a n the and b autiful ph enome a connected with them, render

of N e w Northern Island Zealand, and especially the Province of l one n of Auck and, of the most i teresting parts the world .

V N I T I N A N D PH N OLCA C FORMA O S E OMEN A . L ofty trachytic peaks covered with perpetual snow, a vast number of smaller volcanic cones presenting all the varied

t of characteris ics of volcanic systems, and a long line boiling f m springs, , and sol ataras, present an al ost unbounded

of the of field interest, and, at same time, succession magnificent scenery.

o f v It is only through a long series olcanic eruptions,

t - h ex ending over the tertiary and post tertiary periods, t at the

Northern Island has attained its present form . It would be a difficult task to poi nt out the ancie nt form of the antipodean Archipelago the site of which is now occupied by the Islands of n f N ew Zeala d . I must confine mysel to a simple indication of the events which have given thi s country the form it w as found

h S ea to ave by the South Islanders on their arrival, many

t e - a centuries ago, from h Samoan group form in all main

now ou r respects the same as is before eyes . G or N T H E G EOLO Y AUCKLA D . 2 7

s u bmar ine O f a The first volcanic eruptions were , consisting v st

of t tu ft di an d quantities trachy ic lava, breccia, ; Obsi an ,

of s ea f a n stone, which flowing over the bottom the , ormed extensive submarine volcanic plateau . The volcanic action

n conti uing, the whole mass was upheaved above the level of the t sea, and new phenomena were developed . The erup ions going on n s ea f in the air i stead Of under the , lo ty cones Of trachytic

hon olithic of C f d and p lava, ashes and inders, were gradually orme .

These eruptions, breaking through the original submarine layers " of tu fi an d trachytic lava, breccia, and , raised them, left them , as n or we now find them, formi g a more less regular belt r l ound the central cones, and having a slight inc ination from the

o centre outwards. These belts I shall have occasion t refer to ” “ u of tu i cra ters or cones o ta s cr a ter s nder the name fi , f fi or ” o leva io ni f e t n . In the course of time the volca c action c decreased , and we mus now imagine that tremendous earth — quakes occurred that parts O f the newly formed crust gave way and fell in, forming vast chasms and fissures, which are now f occupied by the lakes, hot springs, and sol ataras . Thus W e now find in the central part of the Northern Island

of of an extensive volcanic plateau an elevation feet, from

T on ar ir o Ri a ta ka . which rise two gigantic mountains, g and p

m Pihan a They are surrounded by any smaller cones, as g ,

’ K Kahar u a Ran itu ku a O nake H au han a akaramea, , g , Puke , g .

n The natives have well named these latter, the wives a d children of the tw o giants Tongariro and R u apahu and they

to ff T a r a na i have a legend the e ect, that a third giant, named lc , — formerly stood near these two but quarrelling with his com

ni r in a nd pa ons about thei wives, was worsted combat, forced

W C in to fly to the est oast, where he now stands solitary

w - of grandeur, the magnificent sno capped beacon Mount Egmont These are the three principal trachytic cones of l the Northern Is and .

B O f R a a al w y far the grandest and loftiest the three is p , u of 25 whose tr ncated cone, standing on a basis about miles in f diameter, attains a height Of to eet above the level — of the sea about feet of which is covered w ith glaciers

Ru a ahu and perpetual snow . p , like , is extinct . T n ongar ir o alone can be said to be active . I was e abled to 2 8 T H E G E O L O G Y o r N D AUCKLA .

five 011 h distinguish craters Tongariro, t ree of which are to a n . f m an d certai extent active Steam is always issuing rom the ,

t t m the N a ur a lzoe the na ives s ate that fro principal crater, called q , o n the top of the highest cone of eruption occasional

of l a eruptions b ack ashes and dust t ke place, accompanied with

. m a h e t e , loud subterranean noises I y remark , that shape o f th

for n cone is changing, the western side, instance, having, duri g

W n in 18 5 4 f e the great at elli gton, , all n in, so that the interior of the crater is now visibl e from the higher poin ts

t 011 U W han an u i T h in the Tuhua distric the pper g . e

f w n o t remarkable act . that sno does rest upon some of the upper

of e points the Tongariro system, while the lower on s are covered

a a r all the winter through, shows that those p rts e of a high temperature .

had O f a b u t I no Opportunity myself ascending Tong riro, I have met with the followin g interesting account O f a n a scen t O f i . D h the h ghest cone of eruption by Mr H yson, w ich was com m u ni t d e Z nrl ca e N w ea la er A . to the by S . Thomson,

’ M r D s on s A ccount o lzis A s cent o T on ar ir o y f f g .

O f 18 5 1 f r u In the month March, , a little be o e s nrise, I

f - commenced my ascent alone, rom the north western side of the

o oa ir e R t lake . I crossed the plain and a scended the space to

h of W han a n u i the nort ward the g river . Here I got into a valley of m covered with large blocks scoria, which made y progress

f t of W h very di ficul . At the bottom the valley runs the a ngan u i river . After crossing the river, which at this place was then

to n d o not more than a yard broad, I had asce d the other si e f the f of valley, which , rom the unequal nature the ground, was

an d for the very tedious, I kept onwards as straight as I could I of . of top the mountain At last came to the base the cone, around which there were large blocks O f scoria which had evi dentl ou t O f the a n d the y been vomited crater, had rolled down

n f O f co e. The most ormidable part my j ourney lay yet before

a nd f me, namely, the ascent of the cone, it appeared to me rom the position where I stood that it composed nearly o ne - fou rth

a of the total height of the mountain . I cannot say at w h t

n I . d angle the co e lies, but had to crawl up a consi erable por

n O f 011 f it tio it my hands and eet, and as is covered with loose T H E G EOLO G Y O F AUCKLAN D . 29

an d a f e . cinders ashes, I Often slid down gain several e t There

n o w o n of was sno the cone the mountain, unless in some cre ’ w a s n ot vices to which the sun s rays did not penetrate . There on an n ot the n w a the cone y vegetation, even lo g iry gr ss which

of grows in scanty patches up to the very base the cone . T he

f e ascent Ofthe cone took me, I should think, our hours at l ast

w . l but as I had no atch, it is possible from the aborious occupa

of n tion I was at, that the ascent the cone looked lo ger than it w as B ut w as o r f clamb e ri11 . whether it three our hours I was g up the cone I r ecollect I hailed w ith delight the mouth O f the

n s u n had great chimney u p w hich I had bee toiling . The just

b 1 m s o begun to dip, and I thought it might be a out p , that I had ascended the mo untai n from the R otoair e lake in about

f a s had f w eight hours . I must con ess, I scarcely any ood ith

O n . I me, that I kept pushing on at a good pace the top O

Tongariro I expected to behold a magnificent prospect, but the day was now cloudy, and I could see no distance. The crater is n l l f ear y circu ar, and from a terwards measuring with the eye a

of six piece ground about the same size, I should think it was

in O f the hundred yards diameter. The lip crater was sharp outside there was almost nothing but loose cinders and ashes inside of the crater there were large overhangin g rocks of a pale

u O f yellow colour, evidently prod ced by the sublimation sulphur.

of of The lip the crater is not equal height all round, but I think d h I could have walke round it. The southern side is the ighest, and the northern, where I stood, the lowest . There was no

of n n possible way descendi g the crater. I stretched out my eck an d f m e looked down the earful abyss which lay gaping before ,

l of or but my sight was Obstructed by large c ouds steam vapour, ’ sa w f and I don t think I thirty eet down . I dropped into the crater several large stones, and it made me shudder to hear some of them rebounding as I supposed from rock to rock— O f some

f n o the sto es thrown in I heard n othing. There was a low

w as u murmuring sound during the whole time I at the top, s ch

a n at R otomahana as you he r at the boili g springs and Taupo, and which is not u nlike the noise heard in a stea m engine room

n o of a when the engine is at work . There was eruption w ter or a ashes during the time I was there, nor was there any appe r

on saw ance that there had been e lately. I no lava which had H O G or 30 T E G EOL Y AUCKLAN D .

h a did f a recent appearance ; notwit st nding all this, I not eel

u comfortable where I stood in case of an er ption . The air was not — — a for cold the scent had made me hot but I had time to cool,

u . 2 m I remained at the crater nearly an ho r At about p . I

h fo commen ced my descent by the same way t at I ascended . A g

w a s or cloud passed over where I , and caused me to lose my i W way for a short t me. hen descending I saw between riro a nd R u apahu a lake about a mile in diameter. I could s ee f no stream flowing ou t o it on the western side . An extinct

of I t crater may also be seen near the base Tongariro . was

W han anu i and almost dark before I reached the g river, ,

an d f although in strong condition a good walker, I elt com

- letel . p y done up, and I fell asleep in a dry water course The im night was cold, but I slept soundly until daylight, when I

n d a n d 1 m a 0 a . mediately rose continued my descent, at I

R otoair e h reached my residence at , wit the shoes almost torn ” off my feet.

n in 185 1 B As far as I can learn, Mr Dyso , , and Mr idwell, in 8 3 9 n a 1 , are the only Europea s who have scended the highest cone of Tongariro:

The difficu lty of ascending Ton gariro is still the same as when “ ” D r n . Thomson published the foregoing accou t It does, he “ i f or r o hness O f says, not ent rely arise rom its height, the ng f n the scoria, but rom the hostility Of the atives, who have made ’ the mountain tapu, or sacred, by calling it the backbone and

O f head their great ancestor . All travellers who have asked

mi of the n per ssion natives to ascend To gariro, have met with f nl t ffi . e t indirect re usals The o y way to g over his di culty is, to a n the o r scend the mountain unknow to natives of the place,

ow n D even your natives . Mr yson did this, but his ascent was

D r discovered by a curious accident . u ing his progress up the mountain he took for a time the little frequented path which

O f W han an u i leads along the base Tongariro to g . A native returning from that place Observed his footmarks, and knew

of them to be those a European . As he saw where the foot

f ou R otoair e steps le t the path, he, his arrival at , proclaimed that a European was n owwandering about alone on the sacred of Tan ariro d e mountain g . The natives imme iat ly suspected it

2 T H E G O G or D 3 E LO Y AUCKLAN .

the C stretches in a more northerly direction to East oast,

a nd u f e of between Maketu Ta ranga, the arthest extremiti s

u l 0 11 o ne o f which reach even to the A ck and D istrict . side

G f C n Hauraki ul , the oromandel ra ge is covered with trachytic

e o n W e C m a t br ccia, and again, the st oast, the same rock for s the co s

' n f M a nn/can I i a i ar n ra ge rom to p a . This exte sive plateau is

m a of a r e intersected by any deep v lleys, the sides which

r of characte ised by a succession remarkable terraces . The same plateau is also broken in many places by more o r less regula r f m 1 000 3 00 f h trachytic cones ro to 0 eet high . T at you mav become acquainted with the geological characte r of such moun

the O f a r e tains, I will mention several examples , names which

l ku m ' 11 t of wel amongs European settlers . To this class moun

' n A a r ioi the W C n W hain ar oa tains belo g on est oast, ear g ,

P ir onr ia the W of Jf a lce a lca on aipa , the regular cone p between o/

W the W Jlf a a n a ta a ta r i W the aipa and aikato, g on the aikato,

A r oli a the W u P a ta a a ki on aiho , or Mount Edgecombe on the

C a nd n . East oast, ma y others The only active mountain which

n W iza lca r i W in the Ba belo gs to this class is or hite Island, y of l lf f o . P enty, a so atara like the active crater Tongariro

“ hI r D i B in a n av d urn, his ccou t of A Trip to the East

C a ape, s ys

I n f about an hour a ter passing Flat Island, the snowy W’ B 1 m vapour upon hite Island began to be discernible . y p. . d we were in immediate contiguity with this remarkable islan ,

A s m ou r passing quite close to its southern extremity . we ade

h a w as of a gradual approac , its spect the most singul r description .

e n n v Exc pt on its orther point, to which the sulphurous apour d t of oes not seem to reach , it is utterly destitu e vegetation 5 there are patches of growing underwood ; but in every other l f i direction, the is and is bald, bleak, and urrowed nto countless

- w o 1 n r v had a a deep a ines . After we p ssed it a short dist nce to

the u a n of w th m the eastward, capacio s b si the crate r, i its nu e

n rous roari g and raging, exposed its sulphurous bosom

I f n of to ou r eyes and n ostrils . the outer a d w estern sides

W a nd f hite Island be blank urrowed, its inner circle is chased,

m n — the de as it were, in a rare and picturesque a ner si s of the

f e l f a hills, rom th ir o ty mountain summits to the b se, being 3 3 TH E G EOLO G Y O E AUCKLAN D .

f flo res n comtecl into innumerable longi tudinal ridges o a ce t bronze of brilliant an d variegated hue .

f . e C D o . . O f this island, aptain rury, H M S Pandora, giv s the followin g description in the New Zealand Pilot

W W haka ri in r hite Island, or , is about three miles ci cum

f i o fe e a n d 8 60 fe . o s n e renc , et high The base the crater and a h f t e s ea . I n n hal miles in circuit, and level with the ce tre is a

n a 100 u f boili g spring bout yards in circ m erence, sending volumes

f h in l O f s team full two thousand eet igh ca m weather. Around the edges of the crater a r e nu mberless smaller geysers sounding

- e an d te like so many high pressure engin s, emitting s am with such velocity that a stone thrown into the vortex w ould imme i l a ir d ate y be shot in the .

an d t ar e la e of Here here k s sulphurous water, dormant ffi w but the whole i sland is s o heated as to mak e it di cult to a lk . From the edges of the crater to the scene below is only to be

- e w of compared to a well dress d meado gorgeous green, with meandering streams feeding the boiling cau ldron but on

w e n approaching, find this gree to be the purest crystallised

r sulphu .

or NO animal insect breathes on this island, scarcely a limpet

011 the 200 f a h stones, and thoms will ardly reach the bottom m h ’ within half a ile of its s .

B r an d eing unde the lee of the island in smooth water,

Ca B e in the s l n h ptain owd n, mo t Ob igi g manner, ove the steamer

on e of 011 to, and lowering the quarter boats, conveyed us shore to n e of h e j oy a personal insp ction t is grand natural curiosity.

ar e n b e ff d the There two spots at which a la ding may e ecte , at openings of the ou ter base of the crater by a very little ex er

r of the d b e tion in clea ing away some boul ers, the landing may

n e ed f the w a w a s re d r per ectly easy but although , this day, ter m w as w h d s ooth , still there such a s ell t at ju gment and caution were requisite to pick out a spot w here best to esca pe the

u 011 h a rollers that t mbled the roug and broken be ch . “ Never shall we forget the grand displays which we beheld in ’ n n this sulphurous caldro . Its pai tings fresh from Nature s — — hand its lake of go rg eous green its roaring j ets O f stormy

a — t d difli cu lt v pour are things to be wi nesse , to be described

a a ll h n but surp ssing these, and as if t eir central attractio , there T H E G G or C N D EOLO Y AU KLA .

of a was a fountain , seemingly molten sulphur, in ctive play, which shot a column of wide - spreading green and gold into the

a f r scorching tmosphere. The beauty o this fountain was s u

a nd s passing , we were under the impres ion, that from its

the i n energy, was more than commonly active its

. W e in ou r workings were very circumspect appro aches, as f in f i the sur ace places was so t and y elding, and we knew not to

a n a m O u r what brimstone depths unw ry step ight sink us .

f in h f f di ficulty walking, t ere , arose less rom the heat, though

in f of n that places was great, than rom the apprehension sinki g

far in the f rf f too so t crustaceous su ace, rom which diminutive spouts of vapour would spit forth as if to resent o u r intrusion .

W w e the f henever thought ground at all doubt ul , we sounded our way by hu r lin g large stones to s ee what impression they would

n or e make, and we adve tured avoid d proceeding accordingly .

ou r r d of t Time, to great reg et, would not a mit a minu e

of exploration, but all the grand features the island had passed

w W e in n for the under vie . looked vai gorgeous meadow D described by Capt . rury but we had only to enlarge any of the numberless miniature vapour holes to obtain pure crystallised

kot 'om tlze ba ker sulphur fl y, and at the same time to convert these i m in holes nto ore active vapour jets . The streams that issued

u di a nd vario s rections were of boiling heat, limpid tasteless but, r though sulphur was everywhere strewn around, it did not appea ’ u f t f r to be in q antities su ficient for shipmen . A ter an hou s

ou r stop, we returned to ship greatly delighted with the visit, and much indebted to ou r obliging capta in for having put it in ” ou r power to enj oy it .

an d Mr . Heaphy has kindly furnished me with a map views of this singularly interesting islan d . I f we take a w ider view of the geological features and the physical outline of these just described high plains and platea us

of of f consisting regular layers trachytic rocks, breccia, and tu f, w e shall find that the steep cones of R u apahu a nd Tongariro ’ rise from the centre of a vast tu fi cone of extremely gra dual

of f inclination, the basis which occupies the whole country rom shore to shore— from East to W est— having a diameter of 100 ea th e of t fs' or in s miles, and forming largest cone afl , other words,

the cr a te o leva ti n in . largest r f e o , the whole world T H E G GY or CK N D EOLO AU LA . 35

I ntimately acquainted with the described volcanic pheno

e O f the a nd n a r e the m na active exti ct volcanic mountains,

l ata r as F u ma r oles H ot S r in S a r S o . e f , , and p g/ They found in a in . . . n long series, stretching across the country a N N E directio , f m the N a u r u hoe ro active crater g in the Tongariro system, to th O f W hak r i e active crater W hite Island ( a ). They occupy the chasms and fissures to which I have already referred . There is only one other place in the world in which such a number O f hot springs ar e found that have periodical outbursts

— - O f is I ce la nd kn e s er s boiling water that , in , the well own g y of

O f which are precisely similar character to those in New Zealand . of f The geysers or boiling fountains Iceland, long celebrated or

di e possessing this property in an extraor nary degree, hav ,

n a ias n a wha s of l indeed, stro g rivals in the p and g New Zea and . Although there may be n o single intermittent spring in New

of the Zealand equal magnitude with L great in Iceland,

r the yet in the extent Of country in which such sp ings occur, in

O f u a n d immense number them, and in the bea ty extent Of

d i N ew the siliceous incrustations and epos ts, Zealand far exceeds

Iceland .

I n enumerating the principal Of this phenomena, we may begin with

The c O f r i . Ton a r o in l a tive craters g , which are at present the condition of solfataras that may b e called the state Of repose O f

on active craters, and with the hot springs rising the slope and at the base O f that mountain .

2 W e he a n r . then pass on to t T i wa and Te ap a springs o n the S “ ” outhern extremity of the Taupo lake“ The principal puia

P ir or i a n n t at Tokanu is called , intermitte t foun ain whose

’ C n of r of f in olum boiling wate , two eet diameter, sometimes 0 reaches a height of more than 4 feet . 3 O n . e the Opposite side of Taupo, at the Northern xtremity of the n w O f lake, we agai meet with hot springs , and ith a river

a W a i a ki/zi n in the warm water c lled p , which, risi g extinct

of T auha ra f l in - e volcanic cone , a ls, a vapour crown d cascade, into Taupo .

f f the W 4. D O escending rom Taupo by the outlet aikato, we

fi nd the e O f , on left bank, in the midst Of a gr at number pools of ' 6 T H E G G or C A N D 3 EOLO Y AU KL .

' n I f ar a itz e mormou s et O f boili g mud, a called p , an j

h- f as hig pressure steam, escaping with such orce to produce a

- O ff f u to sound like letting the steam rom h ge boilers, and as eject

the n the s to a great height sticks, or like, throw in by curiou O n i traveller . the right bank is another fumarole of sim lar

'

P a r a kirz. character, called

- five th 5 . About twenty miles below the outlet Of e W aikato ” “ ‘ m O r a kei- kor al o n O f fro Taupo, at the pa , both ba ks the

- f f in n rapidly lowing river are per orated, more than a hu dred

ff n fu m of i di ere t places, by aroles and boiling springs, most wh ch are O f the intermittent kind 5 and siliceous incrustations of ' T — beautif ul colours decorate the banks Of the river. emini a — — ]Z omaiter a ngi the principal geyser throwsup its large column o f boiling water at intervals O f about tw o hou rs to a height from

20 30 . O f et to feet An immense volume steam succeeds the j , and the water then suddenly sinks into the basin .

O — the O f i W a i 6. At rakei korako line hot spr ngs crosses the

of the P a i kato , and continues along the foot very remarkable

O f W i The r oa r a nge on the Easterly side the a kato . almost perpen dicular W estern side O f this ran ge is caused by an “ ” f n immense ault in the volca ic plateau, corresponding to a deep

h - f u fissure in the eart crust, rom which sulphureous acid, sulph r etted n and a r e hydroge , sulphur steam, continually escaping, while huge bubbles of a s h- coloured mud ar e rising on the surface.

‘ m h - 7 . t e n w W a ikize Fro same ra ge, the warm ater river takes

. O n ar e of n w o n its origin both sides deep pools boili g ater, the O f w e di f f h margins which scovered most beauti ul erns, itherto r u one the A e hrole is the nknown, species belonging to genus p p ,

u f other to the gen s G oneop ter is . These erns are remarkable not als o fr om u l only for their elegance, but z the pec iar circum s a e as d t nces und r which they exist, they are always surrounde e f by an atmosph re o steam .

W e - H A N A 8 . RO TO MA now come to the well known , the most wonderful O f all the wonders of the H ot Springs district O f N e w

Zealand . I will not attempt to describe in a hasty lecture like

the O f - l W e had the ha this beauties this Fairy and . hoev r has p pin es s to look i nto the blue eyes O f O l akap a a r a nyi a nd T e T ar a ia can ever forget their charms ? and whoever has stood T H E G EO L O G Y or AUCKLAN D . 3 7

beside the boiling surf of the M a la /p a basin will always retain

h e f a vivid impressio n O f its terrors . T e t rrace o siliceous deposit on the shores o f R otom aha na a r e unequalled in the

i a e world, nor is there anyth ng that even be rs any r semblance

to them .

n B atar na the O 9. O the lake intermittent boiling springs f k w lVlza ar ewa r e a are the most interesting . the prin ” ci al f O f 20 p ngawha, issues rom the top a siliceous cone some f y i eet high , and is surrounded by several smaller ge sers, boil ng

- f O f n . h mud pools, and sol ataras At intervals considerable le gt , ” m m e n a wka s so etimes extending to any months, all th se y begin

f . f to play together, and orm a scene which must be most wonder ul a nd beautiful .

O f O hinemu ta m s The hot springs for agreeable bathing place , f i the ame of wh ch is already established .

10 in n the f o n . The last the li e are great sol ataras the pumice — sto ne plateau between and Rotoiti such as T zflciter e

a and R u hine. I will now say a few words in explanation of these pheno

mena . All the waters Of the Springs are derived from atmospheric m f oisture, which, alling on the high volcanic plateau, permeate s the f — sur ace and sinks into fissures . Taupo the a xis Of which — corresponds w ith the line O f the Hot Sprin gs may also be con s idered f w as a vast reservoir, rom hich the lower springs are

. The t the c e he e supplied water, sinking in o fissures, be om s at d

the - f - i by still existing volcanic ires . High pressure s tea m s thus

n e de m s e generated, which, together with the volca ic gas s , co po

the trachytic rocks . The soluble substances are thus remove d

the f the e fo r ce of by water, which is orced up, by expansiv the

a nd in the o f steam by hydrostatic pressure, shape boiling springs . The insoluble substances form a residuum of white or r ed f a O f T er a a u n t otoma umarole cl y, which the hills at p ro d

and P a ir hana the oa consist .

N e w h e e d All the Zealand hot springs, like t os of Ic lan ,

in ar e s e abound Silica, and to be divided into two di tinct class s

-the ka l e a n T h a l in d a cid. O t e one , the other latter belong the f e of sol ataras charact rised by deposits sulphur, and never f a the n s orming intermittent fount ins . All i termittent spring 3 8 r u n G E G Y or A CK AN D OLO U L .

are e the m belong to the alkaline class, in which also includ d ost

O f u the ordinary boiling springs . Sulph rets O f Sodium a nd

C t O f a re the Potassium, and arbona es Potash and Soda, solvents of i of w the Silica, wh ch, on the cooling and evaporation the ater, deposited in such quantities as to form a striking characteristic in the a O f appear nce these springs .

T O Here I must leave this interesting subject . enter more deeply into the theory of these phenomena would be ou t of m place here . It may be, however, well to ention that numerous f acts prove that the action which gives rise to the hot springs is slowly diminishing . I must also state my co nviction that ere long these hot springs w n n for O f ill be visited by ma y travellers, not o ly the sake their

for beauty and interest, but also the medicinal virtues they have

e o a be n proved to p ssess . Alre dy many Europeans have bathed in f O - , and derived benefit rom , the warm waters at rakei korako

R o m ah n a nd to a a .

I am unwillin g to omit the interesting legend current a mong

N in f i n of e The the atives re erence to the orig th se hot springs .

H eu heu f legend, as told by Te , the great chie on the Taupo l the ake, is following

' a f N a tir olr a n i f r The gre t chie g y , a te his arrival at Maketu at the time of the immigration of the Maoris from

H a w a iki s e t off au ru n oe t , , with his slave Ng to visi the interior

in n w the n and, order to Obtai a better vie of cou try, they

h h O f n ff ascended t e ighest peak To gariro . Here they su ered

‘ l C f W ha severely from co d, and the hie shouted to his sisters on

fi r e . kari (W hite Island) to send him some . This they did

n fir e f H a w aiki the They se t on the sacred they brought rom , by

P a a Te H a ea ta n taniwha p and , through a subterranea passage

of n to the top To gariro . The fire arrived just in time to save

f O f C f N au r u hoe the the li e the hie , but poor g was dead when

th r O n the Chief t urned to give him e fi e . this account hole throu gh which the fi re made its appearance - the acti ve crater of Tongarir o— is called to this day by the n ame O f the slave N oa a r ahoe and the sacred fir e still bu rns within the whole under ground pa ssage along which it was carried from W haka ri to

Tongariro . This legend affords a remarkable instance of the a ccurate

' 40 T H E G G or C N D EOLO Y AU KLA . remember several striking examples which I can mention —as the P u pu ki Lake O n the North Shore O rakei Bay in the ’ W a item ata G eddes s Basin (H op na) at O n ehu nga and the

B W a ima oia u - P u u ki L tidal asin ( g ) at Panm re p ake, believed C t B to be bottomless, has been ascertained by apain urgess (who kindly sounded it at my request) to be only 28 fathoms . I call

- - n i cr a ter s or in eones . those basi s and similar formations, nf The excellence O f the soil O f O n ehu n ga an d O tahu h u is owing

O f f O f to the abundance such ormations, decomposed strata f which orm the richest soil that can be met with . It is curious to Observe how the shrewder among the settlers, without any

l o u t f or geological know edge, have picked these tu f craters f

h O f themselves, w ile those with less acute powers Observation

e have quietly sat down upon the cold t rtiary clays .

ft f f - A er the submarine ormation Of the tu f craters, the volcanic

u O f action contin ing, the isthmus Auckland was slowly raised

sea above the , and then the more recent eruptions took place,

O f W el by which the cones scoria, like Mount Eden , Mount

u O ne R a n lingto , Tree Hill , Mount Smart, Mount Albert, and

itoto - flow in s O f g , were formed and great out g lava took place .

Many peculiar circumstances, however, prove that those moun

h n tains ave not been burni g all simultaneously. It can easily be observed that some lava streams ar e O f an Older date than

f O f others . In general the scoria cones rise rom the centre

f — Ki W aitom okia r the tu f craters (Three ngs, , Pigeon Hill nea

O f M e . O in Howi k ) ccasionally, as the instance ount

f - W n O . ellingto , they break through the margin the tuff crater T bc Cr a ter Sys tem of M ou nt W ellington is One O f the most

u interesting in this neighbourhood, as beautif lly shown by the large map w hich Mr Heaphy has kindly prepared for me from

a nd dif actual survey . There are craters cones Of evidently f r n is e e t ages . The result Of the earliest submarine eruptions a

- a m f - ff . tu crater The P n ure road passes through the tu f crater, and the cutting through its brim exhibits beautifully the cha r acteristic the b eds e outward inclination Of Of ashes, elevat d from f w their ormer horizontal levels by the eruptions, which thre up the two minor crater cones south of the road- one O f which is n ew f cut into by a scoria quarry . A ter a comparatively long

of period quiescence, there arose from the margin Ofthe first crater TH G G O F C AN D E EOLO Y AU KL . 41

m O f W n n syste the great scoria cone Mount elli gto , from whos e three craters large streams O f basaltic lava flowed out in a W n esterly directio , extending North and South along the

O f the O ld existing valleys the country, one stream flowing into

ff- r ou nd the b ases O f tu crater, and spreading the smaller crater cones; The larger masses Of these streams flowed in a South - westerly w direction towards the Manukau, coming into contact ith the ’ f O f O n Older and long be ore hardened lava streams e Tree Hill . The traveller on the G reat South Road will Observe about one ” mile East Of the Harp of Erin Inn the peculiar difference in the

n e colour on the road, sudde ly changing from red to black, wher the road leaves the Older and more decomposed lava streams O f O n e Tree Hill and passes onto the new and u n decomposed lavastreams

O f W a Mount ellington . The farmers have been able to av il

u themselves Of the decomposed lava s rface, which is now

f O f ston efield beauti ully grass covered, but not the Of the newer

u n Mo nt W ellingto and Mount Smart streams . ” Ca ves K The at the Three ings, Pukaki, Mount Smart,

W &c. Mount ellington, , are the result Of great bubbles in the lava streams — occasioned probably by the generation Of gases

r l and vapour as the hot mass rolled onwa d over marshy p ains . These bubbles broke down on their thinnest part— the roof

a n a and the way into the caves is alw ys directly dow w rds . Examples Of every gradation m ay be seen — from the simple

ff - tu crater without any cone, to those which are entirely filled

t n up by the scoria cones . Especially in eresti g are those which may be said to represent the middle state, in which there is a

a n in f— an d small cone standing like island a large tuf crater, or f surrounded by either water swamp . Perhaps the most per ect specimens Of this kind occur at O tahu hu and near Captain ’ H au ltain s of a , a map which, from actual me surement, has been W B prepared by Mr . . oulton . Y ou need not be alarmed when

on I tell you, that even the very spot which we are assembled is

e O f f - the centr an Old tu f crater, from which fiery streams once

u iss ed, and which has thrown out its ashes towards the hill on — which the barracks stand I n order to account for these variou s s h of hapes, it must be borne in mind t at the cones scoria were

of a i once higher, but on the cessation volc n c action they sunk d l n own in coo ing, and some e tirely disappeared . 4 H E G G or C AN D 2 T EOLO Y AU KL .

a O f the That the Auckland volc noes were, in the true sense ” a word, burning mountains, is proved not only by the lav m in the streams, which are im ense comparison to size Of the

f - a cones, but also rom the pear sh pe volcanic bombs which , ejected

m r a e fro the mountain in a fluid state, have received thei sh p

theair i from their rotatory motion through . That the erupt ons O f the Auckland volcanoes have been of comparatively recent

e date, is shown by the fact that the ashes everywher occupy the

a nd - O f surface, that the lava streams have taken the course the existing valleys . This is beautifully exemplified by the

t n of M probably simul a eous lava streams ount Eden, the K f Three ings, and Mount Albert, which lowing through a

l alto ether fl on G contracted va ley, met g the reat North Road

one O f W aitem ata and form large stream to the shore the , terminating on the well - known long reef W est Of the Sentinel

B t m n a R an itoto B . u ock any thousa d years have p ssed since g ,

u l which is probably the most recent Of the A ckland vo canoes, was in an active state.

a as a cou ntr man I have been frequently sked whether it is true, y of mine who some years ago travelled in New Zealand is said to n have told the European settlers, that New Zealand is a pleasa t

u co ntry, but that they had come a thousand years too soon . In answer to this I have to remark that any one who knows

u anything Of geological science m st be aware, that a thousand ” years is an almost inappreciable space O f time in reference to geological changes . And I would rather say, that it would have been better for New Zealand if it had been colonized a

n o fo r thousand years ago, as there would have then been cause ” s O f L the discus ion the and Question . I should have much pleasure in saying a great deal more on G l i the eology Of New Zealand, but time wil not perm t me. Many subjects 1 have been compelled to omit altogether— such

u artar W u as the q y formation in the Drury, Papakura, and ai ku flats the Basa ltic Bou lder formation the Alluvial formations L W B h in the Middle and ower aikato asin, and ot er places and

i of n n ow on I have said noth ng the cha ges which are going . The materials which I have accumulated during my six ’ ew \ Z ealand il months sojourn in N w l, I expect, require several years Of labour to prepare for publication 5 and unless the w ar N r TH E 43 EXPL A N A T I O o MAPS .

which now threatens my own country shou ld unhappily interfere to prevent the completion of the peaceful scientific undert aking

to of the Expedition which I belong, it will give me great pleasu re to forward to Auckland copies of our publications n respecting New Zealand, accompanied by an atlas, containi g

the maps and other illustrations . t In concluding this lec ure, I cannot omit the opportunity of saying a few words of farewell to the inhabi tants of this

Province.

on the i Now that I am point of leaving Auckland, I turn n memory to the hour in which I made up my mind to leave my ” friends on board the Frigate Novara and to remain for a while

w d an in N e Zealan . I can assure you it was hour of great

i s a anx ety, but I am glad to y I have never regretted the decision

u to which I with so much difficulty bro ght myself. Having

m u received assistance in y labo rs from all sides, I have arrived ff f at results which have a orded me much satis action, and which I hope will n ot be without good fruit to the present and future inhabitants of this Province . Having at first felt some difficulty i n f in mak ng up my mi d to remain, I now feel a similar di ficulty

. e in leaving Home ties, however, are drawing me hom wards, and I mu st quit the country in which I have spent so many

n on e — happy days . In parti g, I have request to make that you will remember me as kindly as I will remember you ; and I — have on e wish which is for the prosperity of the colony of

N ew en of Zealand, and the advancem t the Province of A uckland .

E X L A O O F M P A N T I N T H E A P S .

BY DR . F ERD I N N D H CHST E ER A v. O TT . MA P I .

N EW Z N D —G PHI I Y . G A N D G G V EALA EO RA CAL EOLO CAL SUR E .

N EW ZEALAN D consists of two large and several small l Is ands , which form a broad strip of land extending from the

- - South West to the North East , and at its Northern end pr o

n a r - lo ged by nar ow Peninsula in a North Westerly directio n . The outlines are very similar to those of Italy in a reversed 4A : P AN T I N O P T H E P EX L A O MA S . m position . Its geographical position also har onises with

of of that Italy , being situated between the parallel circles o ° 0 3 4 » 47 of 1 66 4 and 5 Southern width , and the meridians 5 1 8 G 800 and 7 ? Eastern length of reenwich . Its length is s ea W is 120 s ea miles , its central width from East to est 30 G i of miles ( erman m les) , and the area the whole group of Islands amounts to English square miles . New Zealand is therefore nearly as large as Great Britain and

Ireland . — ’ F oveau x Two Straits Cook s Straits in the North , and Straits in the South — separate New Zealand into three parts — of diff erent sizes two larger Islands , which , in the absence of other names , have been termed the North and South Islands , ’ and a small Isle called Stewar t s Island . To these the first ffi English Governor , Captain Hobson , o cially gave the names U L of New lster, New Munster, and New einster (after the three Provinces of Ireland) . These names sometimes figure on the maps , but are only remembered by the colonist as n antiquated reminiscences . The origi al name of New

— of M Zealand is Te Ika a Maui that is , the Fish aui (Cook wrote Ea heino Manwe) - a name which has a mythical sigui

' ls a - fication . A o Te Wahi Pun mu , or land of the green stone ; nl and Ra Kiura . The former was applied o y to the South s o hl Island , where the mineral Nephrite , which Was hig y prized by the Maoris , was to be found .

r The th ee Islands form a geological group , being parts of n the same system , which forms one distinct li e of A n d O . elevation in the Pacific cean Nature , with her

of mighty forces fire and water , has indelibly engraved o i i n . the h story of the Islands the r surface In the South , l wi d alpine regions covered with ice and glaciers , and in the w North , volcanoes reaching to the regions of eternal sno , are seen glimmering in the di stance by the mariner on approaching

- ll the coast . The fertile , richly watered a uvial flats are the

on i the virgin soil wh ch settler forms his new home, and where , blessed with the most salubrious of all climates , he has to combat only the wilderness to ensure the reward of his labour . The characteristic of New Zealand is a large longitudinal ’ which br oken mountain chain , f by Cook s Straits , runs through the principal Island in a South -Westerly and North -Eas terly T N T H 4 EXPLAN A IO or E MAPS . 5

direction from the South Cape to the East Cape . This form s

the backbone of the Islands , and reaches its grand and multi far iou s development in the Southern Island , where it assumes , in numberless summits covered with snow and glaciers , the

character of mountains , to which , with full justice , the name t of the Southern Alps has been given . Majestically in the cen re of these mountainous regions stands the summit of Mount Cook , with its neighbouring giant heights , elevated feet above f of B o . the level the sea , or nearly the height Mont lanc n Mighty glaciers , streams , and magnificent mountai lakes ,

a splendid cascades , passes , and dark clefts whose rocky w lls r e - echo the noisy torrents rushing through them , form the beauty of a wild solitary mountain scenery , seldom trodden by human feet . The brave explorers who have of late years had the courage to penetrate into these wild r egion s fi‘ report that their grandeur if even equalled is not excelled by any in the world . n Towards the West , those Alpi e mountains abruptly assume on a very precipitous character , and form , this the stormy

ul - an d side of the Island , a dreadf ly rugged , weather beaten ,

. O rocky coast n the East , at the feet of these mountains , lay

- d for wide spreading plains and alluvial flats , well a apted

a ricultu r e . an d g , which are occupied by the European settlers as sheep runs while on the North and South the gradations of and slopes the mountains are of a clay slate formation , in which are hidden those quartz veins that have of late years been developed into the rich gold - fields to which Nelson and O tago owe their prosperity . ’ the In the , past Cook s Straits , Southern Alps have their continuation in the great mountain chain which

s m an e e the M . J u Haa the G e a e s r uli st, r tr v ll r, g ologi t to P o ince of Can e de e e the e e of a e for r v t rbury, s rv s high st tribut pr is his e ea c e in the S o n A I n 1860 he n e a ed the m n a n r s r h s uther lps . i v stig t ou t i an e of N e on a nd in 1860 and 1862 o e of the P o n e of Can e r g s ls , th s r vi c t r u e e he eac ed the es cen a umm of M u n Cook a nd b ry, wh r r h high t tr l s it o t , dis covered here num erous glaciers to about to feet above the e e of the s ea le the e of the e e n a n w e on com l v l , whi h ight t r l s o r gi m ences at to a The nc a lamer s H bove that level . pri ip l g aast n am ed C de Ha e o ck As n G dl e M ur s on T a man ly , v l , hburto , o y, chi , s , Hoc s e e M u e Hooke e the n a mmi are a ed h t tt r, ll r, r ; whil pri cip l su ts c ll M o n T nda M n F o e M o n Ar o s m M o n Pe e mann u t y ll, ou t rb s , u t r w ith, u t t r , M ou n D e la ec e H aiden er Ran e M a e u n Ran e M n E e t B h , g g , lt Br g , ou t li d e eaum n &c &c - all mo n ms of fee an . u ta d a ds B o t , , . , t upw r . N T N O E T H E P 4 6 EXPLA A IO MA S .

Pallis s er stretches along the East Coast , from Cape to the D ff C . East ape i erent peaks , which have names , such as

Tar ar u a Kaiman aw a VVaiti , Ruahine , , Te , are of pretty nearly

equal height . The highest summits reach only from

to feet , and are therefore much less than the n height of the Southern Alps . . These mountai s are an almost

ter m inco nim g , and doubtless contain treasures of many kinds .

l hen m n a The Northern Island is a so rich in Volcanic p o o . on W The high plateau the estern side of this mountain chain ,

off N sloping towards the orth and South , forms the remaining

of part the Island, and is pierced to a great depth in more d than a hun red places by Volcanic agencies .

High Trachytic Volcanoes , and a great number of small

B - an d asaltic eruption cones , of quite a recent age , a long

of chain hot springs which , like the Geysers of Iceland ,

of l at intermittent periods , throw up masses boi ing water in s F teaming fountains , umaroles and Solfataras in a multitude

of of f forms the utmost conceivable grandeur , O fer to the

for geologist a rich field research , and to the traveller some

of the most remarkable scenes of nature . The extraordinarily diversified surface formation of New Zealand leads to the inference of a most varied geological t conforma ion . The commencement of a geological examina tion of the North and South Islands has proved this to the fullest extent, during the last few years . The geologic

detail maps of my own observations , and partly those of my ’ H aast s friend , show manifold changes in strata and in minerals . They show that , throughout the whole chain , from the oldest metamorphic formation to the latest sediment layers , and also from the earliest plutonic rocks , up to the all latest volcanic formation , the principal genera are represented . m n all New Zealand is rich in inerals of all ki ds , and those

ar e — which now found as gold , copper , iron , chrome , graphite — and coal can only be regarded as the fir st- fruits of future treasures to be brought to light in years to come .

The fossil fauna and flora of New Zealand , as far as at

ff of present known , di ers \ entirely from that Australia, and many geological facts prove that New Zealand, surrounded the has n a — s n by , bee an isl nd though not in its pre e t

4 8 P N T N or T H E P EX LA A IO MA S .

F MOkau rom Kawhia , I took a tour inland to the district .

Penetrating through numerous primitive forests , and traversing W large mountain chains , I passed the springs of the anganui

on 14 t River in the Tuhua district , and the th of April , our par y L e arrived at the majestic ake Taupo , which is surround d by 125 0 the grandest volcanic scenery , and is situated feet above the

. w as level ofthe sea Here I in the heart of the country , at the n foot ofthe steami g volcano , Tongariro , and its now silent neigh

R u a ahu h O n bour p , feet hig , covered with eternal snow .

u of L t the So thern side the ake is a Mission Sta ion, where I

v s recei ed the kindest hospitality , and my Maori companion were entertained in Maori fashion in the neighbourin g Pa H h P ukaw a by the great chief Te eu eu . After I had sketched

a of L a nd hot the pl n the ake , examined the numerous springs

its W on borders , I started from the sources of the aikato River L l e flowing from that ake , and fo lowed the most inter sting chain of boiling springs , solfataras , and fumaroles , which are situated in a North - Easterly direction between the active crater of

of W hakar i or Tongariro and the island volcano White Island , on the East Coast . The Lake neighbourhood is situated in the

n a wka s a ias is line where the y andp of New Zealand (that , the boiling fountains and geysers , where silicious stalactites form terraces of basins) reach their most magnificent development

i Rotomah n a near the Roto ti and a Lakes . I consider the n k t hot spri gs in this district the most remar able , and , nex to Iceland , the largest in the world . n In the begin ing of May, I reached the East Coast near r i . W a ho Maketu , Tauranga Harbour Hence I went inland to the

or of the valley , the valley Thames of New Zealand , and

n a t r i a arrived at M au gat u a again t the Waikato . I wandered

lVaikato through the fruitful fields of the Middle basin , by

Ran iawhia of g , the centre the Maori settlement , and paid a

K P otatau WVher owher o visit to the Maori ing Te , at his

ar u aw ahia of a residence Ng , at the confluence the Waik to and W i M au n atawhiri Waipa , and returned by the a kato , to g , at l l I a on . the end of y, my way to Auckland

The result of this expedition , extending over three months , was in every respect satisfactory the favourable state of the weather lessened many of the difficulties which travelling through swampy rivers and the almost impas sable New Zealand EXPLAN AT ION O F T H E MAPS . 49

w bush would other ise have entailed , and luckily my journey

& c . &c . happened to be during the harvest Of potatoes , wheat , , , i consequently I found no want in the comm ssariat department . W e received the most hearty welcome at the various Mission

Stations scattered over the country , and the native Chiefs everywhere received the Te Rata H okiteta (my n ame in the

Maori tongue ,) and my companions , at their pas , with great honour and hospitality , were always willing to oblige , and with

- - good humoured zeal ready to assist with everything .

a s s istan ce of K h With the my friends Haast , Hay , oc , and in Hamel , who were my companions , the results proved every way as satisfactory as could be expected . A rich collection of B an d Geographical , Mineralogical , otanical , Geological a h observations came into my hands , and lso for Ethnograp ical studies I had ample opportunity . and My principal aim was , however , the Geography Geology k of . I w as the country To ma e geological sketches , obliged to

m of work at the same time topographically , as the aps the interior were based only on the reports of travelling mission

a - la - aries and vuc sketches .

The map which I took with me from Auckland , for my guidance , only gave a little information about the coast , and its value beyond a few miles from Auckland was not more

Of . than that a piece of waste paper I had , therefore , to adopt a triangul ation system based on the nautical observations of

D lVes t the Captain rury , and carried out from the to East

of . coast, with the energetic assistance Major Drummond Hay

w ho The natives , otherwise always manifested their mistrust ffi of the Government Surveyors , and placed every di culty in

w a . their y, did not interrupt me They knew , that I was a S foreigner who would remain only a hort time in the country , l and they assisted me in every possible manner , to enab e me to relate in my distant land much of the beauties of their country . The chiefs themselves were my guides to the most interesting parts , and to the top of the mountains , where with the utmost readiness they gave me the names of the mountains , l t rivers , val eys , and lakes , and explained af er their fashion the

of n geography the district . I carefully collected all the ames

and they gave me , trust that I have rescued from oblivion m n t any beautiful Maori ames . The terrain posi ions I 50 N T r EXPLA A ION o T H E MAPS .

e sketched always on the spot , and in this mann r I returned with materials from which I compiled in Auckland a map of it o n . the Southern part of that Province , a large scale This map has been r e - cast and revised with the assistance o f

D r . A . my original sketches and surveys , by Petermann , and

i s cale the map in th s Atlas , in the reduced , is the product of

of his labour, and the result my observations . It stands to

reason , that a map which contains nearly miles square miles) and embraces more than the fourth part of the

of Northern Island , executed by the assistance a compass

of n alone , within the period three months , can make no prete

sions to a trigonometric exactness . It is , however , the first map which gives a correct view Of the rivers and mountain

of systems , and of the lakes , in the interior the Northern

Island , and will be useful until some better and more complete B map takes its place . The arometrical measures which I took served as corresponding observations to those of the O b s er vator of y the Royal Engineers in Auckland, which were kindly placed at my services by Colonel Mould . The geological condition of the Southern part of the Province of Auckland may be sketched in the following order

z r T P A L s ao o c (PRIMARY) FO RMA ION .

old Dark coloured claystone , sandstone called grauwacke ,

as ar oid of silicious and j p slate , form a complex system layers ,

9“ A co of m o i na ma to the s cale of 2 m e to 1 nc re py y r gi l p , il s i h, d r h of h o e nmen on main ed in Au cklan fo t e u s e t e G v r t. A sec d copy w a s n o M A m in L ondon to b e u s ed for th ns s e t . J . o s e co uc on t r rr w ith, , tr ti of a a e N ew Z ea and m a in six a s c ha en em an l rg l p p rt , whi h t t g tl in ended to com e the im d er standin o e e ha s t pil , with g, h w v r, t t thi m ap w a s to b e us ed only a s a provisional d elineation of my obs erva Th G eo o ca m a of th e P o in e of Au ck and c as on s . e w ti l gi l p r v c l , whi h e xh ed in the In e na on a E h b on of L ondon in 1862 ibit t r ti l x i iti , , by M C a es He a w a s en ir e a co and com ina on of m m a s r. h rl phy, t ly py b ti y p m n of m au o The and e s ou an a ckn o ed e s . surv y , with t y wl g t y th r hip ma a s o of the Is m s of Au cklan d en in the u a e Jou n a p , l , th u , giv Q rt rly r l l a es o f th e G eo o ca Soc e of L ondon M . C Hea w as u b l gi i ty , by r h rl phy, p lish ed w ou m kno ed e an d is a e ncom e e co of m ob s er ith t y wl g , v ry i pl t py y ’ i m a h M ea h s offic a c a I n s v at on s and s c e e in . H e p , w i h w r r p y i l h rg . thi m ap that gentlem an als o introdu ced his ow n obs ervation s u pon the e o o ca fo ma on s o f th e n e bo ood of Au ck and m ad e e iou s g l gi l r ti igh urh l , pr v to m a a in N e w Z a and bu t w o u os se s s n e en the m os y rriv l e l , ith t p i g v t olo i u a e elem entary kn owledge n eces s ary for m aking a G e g cal S rvey. I h v felt it my duty to m ake thes e remarks ou t of respe ct for tru th and s ci en ce . P N AT I N or T P EX LA O IIE MA S . 5 1

l which on the Northern Island , where crysta line (metamorphic) slate rocks have not yet been discovered , appears to be the

i of is oldest formation , the geolog cal age which it impossible to

dis cov state with exactitude , as petrifactions have not yet been i th ered . The gold quartz veins wh ch are to be found in e

of peninsula Cape Colville (Coromandel harbour) , are imbed ded in this old clay slate formation . Frequent outbursts and layers of dioritic rocks correspond to the Silurian age .

D is tri bution — U it pon the peninsula of Cape Colville , where is t covered to a great extent wi h recent volcanic conglomerate , n contai ing rich gold quartz veins , which have given rise to 1 Th minin g enterprise since 862 (Coromandel Gold F ields) . e alluvial diggings arising from those vein s are of little impor U tance . pon the islands of the Hauraki Gulf, where the Great Barrier and Kawau contain veins of copper ore (copper U W aiheki pyrites , black and some red copper ore) . pon are immense str ata i aspar and petrosilex ; as also in the moun of tain chains the west side of the Firth of the Thames , and thence in a southerly direction into the chains of Taupiri and Kakar im ata . Further on they are covered by tertiary and

nl 111 volcanic strata , and penetrate to the surface o y a few localities . The mountain chains which extend from the Wel L lingtou district to the Taupo ake and the East Coast , consist

r most likely also of old palaeozoic rocks .

MESO Z OIC (SECON DARY) FORMAT ION .

The Mesozoic formation has been ascertained by the discovery of Ammonites and Belemnites in the entrance to the Waikato i in of o f r ver , and the harbour Kawhia , although the exact age thes e strata cannot be fixed by the discovery of petrifactions up to h w t is time , and hich are enumerated as follows 1 A . u , very large complex stratum of very reg lar and highly inclined beds of marl and sandstone , on the Waikato South

Head , with

B A u cklandicu s . elemnites (v Hauer) ,

Aucella plicata (Zittel) ,

Placu n O sis str iatula p (Zittel) , Terebratula spec the At Kawhia Harbour , with

B u kl ndi A c a cu s . elemnites (var minor) , 5 2 P AN T N O F TH E AP EX L A IO M S .

- S l ndi ee a eu s . Ammonites Novo (v Hauer) , H aasti Inoceramus (Hochst ) . ' 2 Str ta t inin . a con a g coal on the West Coast , south of the the — entrance of Waikato sandstone , marl , and slate clay, with thin, worthless seams of coal , and numerous portions of plants , amongst which are frequently to be found in good preservation Polypodium H oehstetter i (U nger) Asplenium palaeopter is (U nger) while the Belemnites (belonging to the group of Can alicu lati) m indicate the system . The largely folded Inocera us and Ammonites have a greater similarity to those from the n chalk formatio .

IN Z I T T I M T I N CA O O C ( ER ARY) FOR A O . Tertiary F ormations are distributed over a large portion of the Province of Auckland, for the most part in a horizontal position .

own 0m F or ma tion s ands one a nd cla s la te with beds 1 . B r t y ,

o u s u l coa l f ef .

a - field D ( ) The Hunua coal , near rury and Papakura 1 858 district , south of Auckland , discovered in the year 1859 by the Rev . Mr . Purchas , and worked since by ih i the W a o hoi Coal Company . The coal belongs to a class of brown coal- to the s o- called glanz and pitch — — coal and contains a fossil gum A mbr it (Haidinger)

which has often been mistaken for kauri gum . The

2 s ton . 3 . price of this coal in Auckland is 3 0s . to per The argillaceous slate and sandstone accompanying this contains several bivalves and leaves of D ieotyle dones

F N innisian a U agus ( nger) ,

L orantO h llu m i U p y Grisel nia ( nger) , Dubium (U nger)

Myrtifoliu m lingua (U nger) &c. — (b ) The coal - fields of the Lower Waikato basin a large — K on brown coal \ basin is situated at upakupa , the

rn H akarimata is northe declivity of chain , but not yet

worked . 5 3 EXPLAN ATION O F T H E MAPS .

(0) Brown coal strata on the west and southern brim of

the central Waikato basin .

Mar ine a r illa ceous mar l s and a nd limes tone with nu mer ous 2 . g , , ,

r i a ctions p et f .

a W aitemata : ( . ) beds sandstone and marl , on the isth

on mus of Auckland , the North Shore and Manukau ,

with stray pieces of wood transformed into brown coal .

O O Ba in n the rakei y, near Auckland , strata rich i as as l glauconite , many foramin fer and bryozo with sma l pectens

A u cklan di cu s Pecten (Zittel) , F ischeri (Zittel) l l B B smal forms simi ar to ivalves and elemnites , which i l are most probably the centres of Vag n el a shells .

b m ff : ( . ) The li estone cli s of Drury , near Auckland flat

f as wi Tu rbin olia limestone rich in foramini er , th ,

S hiz t r c as e &c. , Terebratula , Pecten , (a ) Waikato Heads and southerly direction of the West

ir r e u Coast granulated sandstone strata , resting g larly on the above - mentioned Belemnite beds with coal u cle olites S chizaster layers , and containing Cidaris , N , ,

F a s ci u li or a C W aldheima c p , Retepora , ellepora , , Pecten , ’

&e . Sharks teeth , (cl ) Clay marl and flat sandstone on the borders of W hain ar oa g , Aotea, and Kawhia , on the West Coast

F r i s m nif r . &c. o a e e with Pecten , Waldheimia , , and many U e. ( ) The flat coarse limestone in the pper Waipa ,

M au n a u su bterrestial g p , and Mokau district, with many

- h l u s a e . rivulets , caves , and f nnel p holes

P T -T T I T N T OS ER ARY (OR QUA ER ARY) FORMA ION .

L L ik o 1 . WVa at Plastic clay and sand , with ignite in the ower

o n basin , and in the flats the south and east side of the

Manukau harbour .

2 ter r ace L . The formation in the ower and Middle Waikato basin— the terraces the number and regularity of which

a ni s causes sto shment to the observer , are the con equences of the continual of the rivers during a slowly f continuing rising o the l ands in the quaternary period . E 2 T N EXPLAN A IO O F T H E MAPS .

The Taupo district is the source of the extensive masses

O f pumice which are distributed over the terraces .

L ittor a l or ma tion a lon th o f g e c as t.

(a . ) Formation of downs mostly near the West Coast and on the Coast of the Bay of P lenty (b) Layers of titanic magnetic iron sand along the WVe st

Coast .

c ( . ) Mud with brackish s ea animals in the estuaries of the

East and West Coast.

F r m ti n i the inter ior o a o n .

a E t ( ) xtensive swamps and peat bogs along the East Coas , L W the Middle and ower aikato basin , and on the

entrance of the W aikato .

Zn L t M D inor nis ( ) ayers , wi h bones Of the oa ( ) , and Moa stones in swamps alluvial deposits and caves in the U W pper aipa , Mokau, and Tuhua district , and on the

East Coast . (a ) Layers of kauri gum in the northern part of the

Province of Auckland , where formerly kauri forest

existed . (cl ) Alluvium containing gold in the neighbourhood of

Coromandel harbour . A of ccumulations by the hands men , as shells , stones , f & c. bones , , over di ferent districts .

a — O ( ) Heaps of shells of edible varieties Cardium , strea , l V Mytilus , Patel a , enus , Haliotis , Mesodesma , Turbo ,

See — of Monodonta , particularly in the places former

v K okken moddin s pas and illages , analogous to the j g

in Denmark .

6 fir e - ( ) Stones of places of the Maoris , charcoal , and

ashes . t s (a ) A variety of tools made from s one by the Maori , of & c. , anchors , axes , , prepared Aphanite Nephrite , t n flints o e & c. , ? a of ( ) Human bones , bones dogs , whales , fishes , and f — O c dr omus di ferent birds Penguin , Albatross , Weka ( y ) ,

K A ter ia iwi ( p ) , Moa bones , and egg shells, in the ‘ - neighbourhood of the Maori fir e places . These bones

are mostly burned, and bear the marks of stone

weapons .

56 PL N T N O F T H E P EX A A IO MA S .

which the natives have designated as the wives and

children of the two giants .

n - r In a orth easterly di ection, a few miles distant from the Ba of t coast in the y Plen y , is situated the second active

of W hakar i 863 volcano New Zealand, (White Island) ,

of u ninter feet high , from the crater which ascends ,

r u tedl p y, large white clouds of vapour . The distance twe 120 be en these two large amounts to miles , and between them the volcanic agency steams and boils in more than a thousand places from deep furr ows and

S of fissures , a ign the continual subterraneous fire, while

numerous lakes are formed by the sunken ground , and

s L i s o which represent the ake D strict, celebrated for its

n n l or boili g spri gs , fumaroles , and so fataras ; , as the

n awha s a ias natives call them , the y and p , in the southern

i oicle ex l parts of the Prov nce of Auckland ( P . Map The volcanic formation O f Auckland zone is of basaltic

viola x l lava ( e p . Map

RECORD O F T H E HEI G HT S O F T H E SOUT HERN PART O F T H E P V N O F L A N D RO I CE AUCK .

“ Parts which have been adjusted by the marine survey ( N ew Z ealand ” P o and En c a t il t, glish h r s). ar om etr i m a e H b B c e e e . sur s , by ochst tt r ma ed Esti t . E nglish feet . — A uckland Meteorologic Observatory O f the Royal Engineer D epartment

n - Claremo t House, upper end of Princes street

Kai ar a H ar bour W es t Coas t p , M O tamotea 1440 ” Te Karanga ountain , on the River 1

W akakur an a O ru awhar u g , mountain on the River O para , Mount O tau Auckland Peak , by Creek

Kohar an a g , on the Kaipara River

Titir an i chain ‘between the W aitalccri and the g ,

M a/na ha a c boa r Mount Tea W ekatuku P AN T N O F T H E AP EX L A IO M S . 5 7

’ Pukematiku B , Henderson s ush ’ Mau n atoetoe D elwor th s F g , arm W Parera, est Coast

anukau H a r bour W es t Coast M ,

Par atu tai North Head , Island , Signal Pilot Station

Pukehu hu O man awanu i Peak

Kaamoki or Komoki Te , Te Peak , near the Huia The Huia Peak

Puponga , highest point Heights of the left border of the big Muddy

Heights by Whau Creek

M ahau ihau i South Head,

E as t Coas t r om the B a o I s lands to the W aite , f y f

ma ta H ar bou r or the H ar bour o A u ckland , f

B W an ar ei Cape Tewara , or ream Head , g Harbour B Summit between ream Head, near Moto Tiri Island Chickens Taranga Island m ’ Mount Ha ilton , near Rodney s Point

Kawau Island , Mount Taylor L B r or H ou turu M ittle ar ier Island , ( ) ount Many Peaks B M Great arrier Island , or (Aotea) ount Hobson The Volcanos of A u cklan d Rangitoto

North Head, Takapuna

Takaru n a Mount Victoria , g Heaphy Hill Mount Eden Hobson JOhn St . Albert Kennedy Three Kings 5 8 XP N T N or T H E P E LA A IO MA S .

One Tree Hill Mount Smart W ellington Pigeon Hill Otara Hill

' M angere Il ili

W aitomokia Puketutu

O tu atau a

M au ngataketake

lVI au nr ew a

M atakar n a — ’ D r ury Young s Inn (first storey) ’ B rown coal shaft on F armer s land SSGb '

G r ea t S ou th Roa d between D r ur a nd M a n a ta whir i , y g 1 . First hill at the entrance of the bush

2 of . Highest point the road ik h 3 . W a o owheke , house on the road 4 . Second height of the road on the place where the View of the W aikato opens M angata whir i

P a ahor ahor a on of p , near Kupakupa , the left side the the , place of the brown coal seam

Tau ir i p , a hill on the right border of the Waikato , opposite the Mission Station

Jf a lee u hu the p , isolated mountain not far from Mission Station on the Waipa 1 53 1b

' P oints between the W a wa River and the W es t

Coas t:

Toketoke , lake on the way from Whatawhata to W haingar oa Highest point of the road from Whatawhata to W haingar oa ’ W hain ar oa C u g Harbour , aptain Johnson s ho se hain ar oa and Station between \ the W g Aotea Harbours O a River ia Mill on the par u , Kawh Harbour EXPLA N A TION or T H E 59

E nglish feet . of O , highest point the parau River to 1585b

of n a 2830 " Pirongia , highest point the mou t in group 1

1 . Near Mangatawhiri 2 i on of . Near Rang riri , pa the right border the Waikato

Tai ou ri 3 . a Ne r p , island in the river with a Maori village

T u ko to 4 . o Near p , Mission Station

5 ar u aw ahia . Ng , residence of the Maori King

6 Kir ikirir oa .

7 A niwhaniwha B . , Waikato ridge

8 . Near

efflu x 9 . Near the from Taupo lake

B etween the W a ika to and W a ip a

M au n atau tar i g , Maori pa O tawhao i , Mission Stat on ,

W aip a River a nd D is tr ict N gar u awahia W hatawhata , left side of the Waipa School -house ’ Kai iha p , Mr . Turner s house

lVai a n of p , at the entra ce the Mangaweka

. . 25 Mission Station of the Rev A Reid , nearly feet above the bed of the river

A w atoitoi on , Maori settlement the right border

25 f of of the Waipa , nearly eet above the bed the river

O r ahir i , on the left bank of the Waipa H an ataki g , Maori settlement

A n a U r iur i of Te , cave Stalactites Tau ahu hu e on t , Maori settlem nt the lef bank of the W angapu Man awhitikau i g , Maor village

Puke Aruhe , hill

Upp er M okau D is tr ict a a M T k pau , aori XP AN AT N r TH E P 60 E L IO o MA S .

M en M Piopio , aori settlem t on the upper okau River

Mokau River , above the Wairere falls Pukewhau t nk , Maori pa on the lef ba of the Mokau River M tw M okauiti , be een the aori settlement Huritu and Pu nanga Puhanga M or otawha of n 7th , place encampme t on the and 8th of 1859 April ,

Tarewatu mountain ridge, height of pass from the Mokau to the Wanganui distr ict

T arewatu , highest point

Ta u iwahine w a fr p , highest point on the y om Makau to Wanganui 19336

U er W an an u i T uhu a D is tr ict pp g , C ll hura , Maori vi age

Katiaho O n aru he , Maori settlement , on the g river

N ariha O n aruhe g , hill on the g river Pokomotu r plateau , highest point on the way f om Katiaho to Petiano

P tania e , Maori village on the Taringamotu river

Taka u tir aha B p chain , passage from etania to Taupo Pun un a gap g brook , on the road to Taupo

Puketapu , mount on the road to Taupo L ake Taup o M - on e and oerangi, pumice stone plateau the w st south -west o f W hakairomu Kuratao river on the road to F ukawa

Poar u M , aori settlement B s n n ukawa , pa on the outher ba k of Taupo Lake 1399b

the . L M Rev M . ission Station of r Grace, at ake Taupo

Kor oiti on of L plateau , the south bank ake Taupo

L , eff n 1337 Taupo ake (after Di e b ach, feet) XP AN AT N O F TH E P E L IO MA S . 61

’ D iefienbach Roto Aira, after

' u f D iefienbach Rotu P namu , a ter Tongarir o a nd Ruap ahu N au ru hoe M ff Tongariro , g ount (after Die enbach ,

’ Ru a ahu p , on Taylor s map Arrowsmith ’s map English charts Pihanga B etween TatumL a ke an d the E as t Coas t O M ruanui , aori settlement Plateau above Orakei Korako O rakei Koroko , pa on the left bank of the Waikato river Boilin g mud springs at the foot of Paeroa

aikite ae W , hot springs at the foot of the P roa chain

Pakaraka, above Roto Kakahi Roto Kakahi Lake Roto Mahana Lake Tarawera Lake

a awer a M and P p plateau , between Roto ahana Tarawera 1867b M L Re Mr v. . ission Station on Tarawera ake , Spencer Rotorua Lake Ngongotaha moun t on the southern bank of Rotu r u a 2282b

n n of Rotokawa , small lake on the easter ba k Rotorua 1098b aiohewa n on n W , or Ngae , settleme t the orth eastern bank of Rotorua

Pukeko , on the Rotoiti O matuku , near Maketu

E as t Coas t M ajor Island (Tuhua) , highest

M on anui g mountain , at the entrance of the Tauranga harbour a e I an Motonau c n Pl t sl d ( ) , e trum 62 EXPLAN A ION O F T H E AP T M S .

E nglish feet . 1 1 ” Whale Island , or Motu Hora , highest point 671 W hakar i L . 8 White Island , or 631 Ed cu mbe m Mount g , eastern su mit 2 575 1 East Cape (East Cape Islet) 4201”

B etween the E as t Coa s t a nd the W aiho River

on Waipapa brook , the coast from Tauranga to the Waiho W Heights of the Wanga chain , near the airere falls l dl él b

Wairere river , immediately above the highest

falls 144< 2b of n c -n Height the pass over the Wha ga hain , ear the Wairere falls The height of the W aiwer e Falls F F Waiho lats , near Wairere alls W hatiwhati f , settlement at the oot of the Pate tere plateau Castle Hill (Cape Colville chain) near Coro mandel Harbour

MAP III .

T H E I T or A U CKL AN A N D I T S T IN T voL cA N os S HMUS D EX C .

TH E great southern part of the Northern Islan d of New Zealand is connected by a small isthmus with the north ° l ou of 37 western peninsu a , the parallel circle S . lat . The sea penetrates through the Hauraki Gulf on the Eastern

e i n Coast, forming many branching cre ks , and washes a south westerly dir ection into the so - called W aitemata River upon — the north side of the peninsula . On the Wes t Coast the la — n stormy weather side of New Zea nd the ocean , penetrati g r th ough hard volcanic rocks in a narrow entrance , spreads of out and forms . the Manukau basin , the southern coast this i o sthmus . The land between the tw seas is only some five or s ix W aitemata miles broad , and in two places where the River forms small creeks i n a southerly direction towards the i one Manukau basin it narrows to the w dth of mile . These

‘ narrow strips have been used by the Maoris from ancient

4 E PLA N A ION n TH E 6 X T o MA Ps .

hunga are numerous country seats , villas , and farms . Along

ll dl ewmarket the road , vi ages are rapi y forming , such as N ,

. . m Mount St John , and Epsom Every sign of the for er o l wildness f the isthmus has vanished . The o d New Zealand w a E vegetation has given y to uropean plants . Scoria walls an d green hawthorn hedges divide the various estates ; green r meadows , ga dens , and fields charm the eye . Everywhere f O herds o fine cattle are seen grazing in the fields . mnibuses on are constantly passing the roads , and the whole forms a

picture Of a fresh and happy life . The isthmus of Auckland is also one of the most in teresting the di n volcanic districts of globe . It owes its stinguishi g

feature to a great number of extinct volcanos , with more or less distinctly preserved craters and lava streams which form ll lf extensive scoria fields at the foot of the hi s , or with tu t cra ers which encircle the scoria cones like an artificial wall , and are irr egularly distributed over the i sthmus and the of W aitemata neighbouring banks the and Manukau . The volcanic activity at each new eruption seems to have taken a ff d di erent course from the former , and ivided itself into

numerous small cones . My map of the isthmus , which d 20 12 extends over a istrict of miles in length , by in width , 63 n t shows not less than i dependent points of erup ion . on n f These are volcanos the smallest scale , formi g cones o an elevation of from 3 00 to 600 feet above the level of the Ran itoto s ea . s The highest amongst them is g , which ri es at the entrance of the harbour of Auckland to the height of 900

Bu t of c ni feet . they are perfect models vol a c cones and ff of crater formation , and O er a large field geognostic

' t a observation , refuting en irely the theory of elev tion craters “ by Leopold von Bu chfi

These mountains rise on a base consisting of tertiary sand .

l al stone and argil aceous marl, the horizontal and only loc ly disturbed strata of which are easily recognisable on the steep f aitemata The banks o the W and Manukau Harbours . examination of these isolated points of eruption gives proof

A description in detail will b e given in the scientific publication of “ ” the N o a a e edi on and a ea in the o me ch em ace v r xp ti , will pp r v lu whi br s h a and t e geology of N ew Z e l . 65 nxPL AN A TI O N O F T H E MAPS . of repeated and different volcanic outbursts in one and the same locality .

— sub - at of The first eruptions probably marine , the bottom

- — of of a well sheltered bay consisted loose masses , and ruins of the fundamental basis , scoria and ashes . These eruptions took place in many shocks , following each other ; the masses thrown out formed layers above each other and around the of place outbreak , causing a flat rising cone , with more or — less circular or basin - like crater in the centre tuff- cone an d

- f . Pu uki L ake O tu f crater The p on the North Shore , the rakei ’ Ba of B O nehu n a y, east Auckland ; Geddes asin , near g ; the W aima oia Kohu or a l basin g , near Panmure ; and Hi ls south

O tahuhu di of of , are amongst other stinguished examples such tu d - L in craters . ike the Maren the Eifel , these crater basins are very deep and are filled with water . The sweet water 3“ 2 - 1 Pu uki 8 68 . lake , p , has a depth of fathoms , or feet

They are sometimes flat , dry , or swampy . When they are situated near the sea it has generally forced an entrance , and ebbs and flows in an d out of the crater basin . In con sequence of their rich and fertile volcanic soil these tuft- cones hold an important position in the Province of Auckland almost everyone of them is occupied by the homestead of a

, settler . The practical shrewdness of these men has led them

l or of without geo ogical knowledge , to settle at the basis side these craters— their flourishing meadows and clover fields contrasting strongly with the fern and manuka scrub

L e tos er mum ( p p ) of the clay soil . With the beginning of the volcanic activity seems to have commenced , although very gradually , a rise of the whole s o a isthmus that the later eruptions took place bove the s ea . I n t his second period , the volcanic activity increased to the

‘ of emis sions red hot masses of scoria and streams of lava . At that time the Auckland volcanos were fire - spitti ng mo untains in the true sense of the word ; their steep cones at a slope ° ° of 30 3 5 of la ill es to were formed scoria , volcanic bombs , and p lin (Mount Eden , Three Kings , Mount Smart, Mount Wel gton ,

d - and many others) , with eep , funnel shaped craters , and where

It is the O pinion of the translator that the lake is connected by a s ma ne c anne Ran itoto ic is the e of the ak e. ub ri h l with g , wh h sourc l 66 EXPLA N ATION or r u n MA r s .

repeated eruptions followed each other out of one and the same

Ran itoto . crater , cones of lava were formed again , like g Where

these new eruptions followed the former course , new scoria

w of tu if - n cones gre up within the ring the crater , and accordi g n to the number of the eruptions , or the sinki gs which followed

or the extinct volcanic activity , larger smaller islets were

ft- or . formed within , where water swamp filled the tu craters The lava of all the Auckland volcanoes is petrographically

identical . It consists of porous lava , rich in Olivin , which makes a good building stone for the substantial erections f m r in Auckland , while the scoria cones a ford an excellent ate ial

for the roads of the isthmus .

Ran itoto ni B The name of g , which sig fies Sky of lood , would lead to the supposition that the Natives have given this n ame in consequence of the reflection of the burning streams

of sk lava in the nightly y, and that therefore the Auckland volcanos have been in activity in very recent historical times

but this is improbable . That their activity belongs to the most

of recent geological period the earth , and to the geological

of chronology the present time , is proved by the fact that the

volcanic ashes cover the surface directly , and that the lava streams have run by no means at one and the same time into

the neighbouring valleys . These have therefore existed at the

u time of the emission of lava , and the s rface of the district has

since that time undergone no material change . Transformed through the diligence and enterprise of the

E u ropean settler into fertile cultivated districts , the Auckland volcanos are but monuments of a remarkable history of the O Maori race . nly a few generations have passed since the Auckland isthmus was the seat of a mighty Maori tribe - the

N ati t s — f g w a u a consisting o to men . These fir e extinct mountains , with their commanding situations and

of wide prospects , occupied at that time , the position hill forts , like the feudal castles of Germany . On their summits were ll the fortified pas of the chiefs , while at the foot of the hi s were

‘ distributed the huts and kumera cultivations of the slaves . ll m The slopes of the hi s were for ed into regular terraces , and fortified with palisades . The huts and houses are now destroyed the palisades have disappeared ; the Maori feudal castles have decayed the terraces and holes are the only remaining monu EXPLA N ATION o r r u n MAPS . 6 7

ments of a brave people which were annihilated in the bloody , ” of of cannibal wars Hongi , the Napoleon New Zealand , in 1820 1830 n the years to , and whose deeds live only in so g and tradition .

I MAP V .

- nor o MAHAN A (on T H E WARM LAKE) A N D I T S n or s P R I N e s .

Tn E L s o l on of m ake District, ca led account its nu erous lakes , ’ is situated about two days j ourney from the B ay of Plenty . t v It is almos exclusively inhabited by the natives , who ha e selected the beautiful an dfer tile banks of Rotorua and Tarawera

as . their settlements . The Mission Station at Temu (the Rev ’ Mr . Spencer s residence) is at present the only European habi tation n , and is the resort of many travellers and aturalists , who visit the neighbourhood during the summer months . The

of - or principal point attraction of this region is Roto mahana , L the Hot ake , with its wonders , a visit to which well repays ’ the fatigues of a few days travelling through New Zealand i‘ rush and swamps fi one It is of the smallest lakes of the district, scarcely exceeding in , length three - quarters of a mile from north to

of . v south , and in width a quarter a mile I hardly belie e that

- w this small , dull green lake , ith its swampy borders , and the

- surrounding barren and miserable looking hills , which are destitute of trees , and only covered with fern , would come up

O f to the expectation of the traveller , who has heard so much

it m of all . s w onders . That which akes it the most remarkable

of l v t all the lakes New Zea and , nay e en the mos remarkable of

of spots the earth , lies mostly hidden from the view of the — new arrival except the immense clouds of steam which rise — everywhere which leads to the supposition that . in reality nothing is to be seen .

“ 4 The journey from Auckland is generally made in from one to tw o f n F om T a an a one days by s ea to T auranga with a avou rable wi d . r ur g can a ri ve in da s at T a a e a and Ro o -m a a na L ake e e d ec r two y r w r t h , ith r ir t o M ak — r oa s u a b ad T he e u n can b e made ov e r by etu both d eq lly . r t r r the P ateter e a e a to the Wa ka o R e and f om s canoe to pl t u i t iv r. r thi by M an a a n h S Ro d ads to A ck and e ce t e G ea a e . g t whiri , wh r t outh l u l 6 Exp L AN A T I 8 O N O F T H E MAPS .

“ — — The name of Warm Lake (Roto lake ; mahana warm)

u may in the f ll sense of the word be given to it . The masses of boiling hot water which spring up along the banks and from of O collos sal . the bottom the lake , are really f course the of whole lake is warmed by them , but the temperature the ff water di ers considerably in various places , as they are nearer f or urther from the springs . At many points , even in the ° ° ° of 4 86 30 0 c . centre the lake , the thermometer rises from to , ( ° ° °

104 F . F 78 8 . to ) while near its stream I found it only 26 c . ( )

w - fish The ater is thick and swampy , and neither fish nor shell can live in it . Otherwise the lake is a favourite resort of innu mer able a on m quatic birds , who build their nests its war of banks , while they find their food in the waters and swamps

- mak rir i the cold lake Roto a . The natives shoot them at certain seasons , but at other times they do not permit either Europeans

r - o themselves the pleasure of sport . The birds of Roto mahana ” are at this period strictly tapu . Visitors who intend to stay a few days at the lake are r ecommended b y the natives to select as their quarters the

. 12 250 small island Puai This is a rock , feet high , feet 100 d long , and nearly feet wi e . Small huts are there erected , in which we made ourselves as comfortable as pos

But n ot sible . I believe that any one who did know that nl persons have lived here for several weeks , would o y with great difficulty be persuaded to remain here even for one night . The continual roaring , rushing , singing , buzzing, boiling

a n sound , and the intense heat of the ground , impresses feeli g of

“ nl terror , and during the first night of my stay I awoke sudde y , as the ground under me became s o hot that I could not possibly bear it . In examining the temperature, I made a hole in the soft ground , and placed the thermometer in it . It rose imme diatel - of y to boiling point , and when I took it out , a stream hot steam instantly ascended ; so that I hastened to cover it n again as fast as I could . Indeed , the whole isla d is nothing b ut a torn and fractured rock , decomposed and softened by l steam and gases , which , a most boiled to softness , may at any moment tumble to pieces , and vanish in the hot water of the

. w h lake Hot ater bubbles up everywhere , eit er below the

u of s rface the lake or above it ; , and wherever a hole is made in

or th h is f e r the the ground, e crust removed w ich orm d ove E PLAN ATI ON or r u n P 69 X MA S .

of fissures the rock , hot steam bursts forth , which we used for

011 cooking our potatoes and meat , spreading them ferns , according to native custom . of n The centre attraction and of interest is the easter bank , where are the most important of the springs , which indeed the lake has to thank for its renown , and which are the most f magnificent and grand o all hot springs at present known .

- of Te Tarata is situated at the north eastern end the lake . 80 It lies feet above the level of the lake , within a crater which

s ide ' of c is open towards the the lake , and forms the prin ipal 0 basis of this mighty bubbling spring . It is 8 feet long 60 l by feet broad , and fi led up to the brim with clear boiling

a water , which issues in the centre sever l feet higher , looking

- s beautifully blue in its snow white incrusted basin . Enormou clouds of steam , rising upwards , are reflected in the blue mirror of the basin . The temperature of the water , which pro ° - F n 4 . 8 0. bablyreaches to boili g point in the centre , was ) near the rim of the basin . The water is neither alkaline nor acid it has a slightly salt taste, and possesses in a high degree the

incr u s tr ation . property of petrifaction , or rather of The sedi ment consists , as in the hot springs of Iceland , of silica , and the overflow has formed 011 the slope of the hill a system of crystal terraces , which , appearing almost as white as marble ,

s a present a sight which it is impossible to describ e . It i s if a

r cascade , rushing over steps , had been suddenly ar ested , and transformed into stone . Each of these steps has a small elevated rim , from which hang delicate stalactites and here

011 and there , the smaller and broader steps , are formed water t basins . These blue basins , filled wi h crystal water , form con natural baths , which could not be surpassed by those structed by the most refined luxury . One can select his

- or or bathing place either deep shallow , small large , and of

as every temperature according to his taste , the basins situated o n the heights near the source contain warmer water th an those of the lower steps . Some of the basins are s o large that a person can swim in them with comfort . Such is a description d o f the celebrate Te Tarata spring . The natives assert that the whole water in the principal basin is sometimes ejected

u s ddenly with vast force , and that it is possible to look into the empty basin, thirty feet deep , which fills again speedily . P 2 70 E PLAN A ION or T H E P X T MA S .

A path leads from the foot of the Te Terata spring through

aha u n of the bush to the great Ng p spri g . The basin this 40 3 0 i spring is feet long and feet broad . The water within t

is in constant and dreadful agitation . It is only for a few d n moments that the water is quiet in the caul ron , whe it again n bubbles up , and is throw eight to ten feet high and a foam ing surf of boiling hot waves stream over the walls of the

s o The basin that the observer is obliged timidly to retreat . ° s in F u r thermometer ri es these springs to 98 c . F . )

T aka o ther south , close to the banks , is situated the Te p spring — a of 10 boiling water basin feet in diameter , the geyser

of 3 0 40 eruption of which rises to a height to feet . Not far from this spring the traveller arrives at a hollow

l W aikan a an a a V W ater the cal ed p p ( ariable ) , approach to which

ffi as one is covered with bush , and somewhat di cult , has to

- n pass several suspicious looki g places , where there is

danger of sinking in the boiling mud . The cavity itself

of of appears like the crater a volcano ; the walls , bare

of of vegetation , are rent and torn ; pieces and tongues rock

fl blu e n u white, red , and fumarolic clay risi g pwards like

r spectres , threaten to fall eve y moment . The bottom is formed

of fine mud , and silicious stalactites , broken into every form

and variety , lie about like pieces of ice after the breaking up fill of a frozen stream . Here is a deep pool ed with bubbling mud— there a cauldron full of boiling water— near it a

dreadful hole which , with a hissing noise , ejects a column of

steam ; and further on small mud hills (fumaroles) , from two to — five feet in height mud volcanos , if the name may be applied — to them which , with a dull noise, throw out of their craters

lin ff of boi g mud , and represent, on a small scale , the e ects large

- u volcanos . In the back gro nd is s ituated a green lake named

- u Roto punam , an extinct spring . Coming ou t of the north side of the cave is seen lying picturesquely amongst rocks and bush the spring Rua

(Kiwi Hole) . It is an oblong basin of sixteen feet in length ,

filled with clear simmering water . The banks of the lake assume here a steep and rocky character ; hot springs bubble w on out of them belo the surface of the water , while the s N awhana lope are situated, near the g spring , the vacated s n not far off huts of a Maori settlement of the ame ame , and

PLAN ATION O P T nE P 72 EX MA S . and may serve as a guide to the tourist in this interesting district . F had Professor Dr. v . ehling , of Stuttgart , has the kindness to analyse the w aters of the lake and the stalactites . On account of the small quantity of the water , a quantitative analysis could not be made .

A — A na l s is o the W a ter . . y f .

1 . . . Te Tarata Spring , by Mr Melchior 2 i K . Rua wi Spring , by Mr . Melchior

3 u Kielmaier . . Roto P namu , by Dr . In 1000parts of water was contained

1 2 . . Siliceous acid

Chlor n atriu m

Residue

Silicious Sta la ctite or D ep os it of the ( lif er ent H ot Sp rings

on t e ba s o h o - ha na h nk f t e B to ma .

D of n a b eposit Te Tarata Spri g ( ) soft , ( ) hard .

N aha u n of the g p Fountai ,

W hata oho F of the p ountain ,

of O tu ka Pu ar an i the g Spring .

The analysis executed by Mr . Mayer gives 2 1 . . 3 .

a . b. Silica Water a nd organic substance O xide of Iron Tr aces Argillaceous earth Chalk Magnesia Traces Alkalies

MAP V .

W H A I N G A RO A T A N D I — T B O N , AO EA , KAWH A HREE HAR OURS T T H O N WES COAS O F T E PROVIN CE F AUCKLA D . TH E contrast between a weather shore and lee shore coast

m nowher e s o t for ation is \ s riking as between the west coast and

- the north east co ast of the North Island of New Zealand . W E hile , from the North Cape to the ast Cape, the coast, XPLA N ION OP TH P 3 E A T E MA S . 7

e shelter d from the prevailing winds , presents a most irregular

the outline , forming deep in land many indented harbours ,

Ba navigable by the largest ships for example , the y of Islands and the W aitemata or Auckland harbour with i numerous islands and capes the West Coast , wh ch on is exposed to the westerly wind , is , the other hand ,

Van from Cape Maria Diemen to Cape Egmont , an almost i regular outline , sl ghtly curved towards the east , and is formed

by a nearly uninterrupted chain of sandbanks . These sand

banks in many places , and particularly where there is no steep

or 500 higher rocky coast in the background , reach a height of 600 of to feet , and when seen from the sea, appear like a chain mountains . The bays and creeks of the West Coast are , in

s ea consequence of these sandbanks , locked up from the , and nl are merely estuaries , navigable o y through narrow entrances , s in which the ea ebbs and flows . At high water these estuaries appear like large lakes , but at low water immense mud flats , intersected by narrow channels , are laid bare . O n the West Coast are six of these estuaries , three north of — the Waikato the Manukau , Kaipara , and Hokianga harbours an d — W hain ar oa three south the g , Aotea , and Kawhia har — bours . All these estuaries have this in common that the sandbanks which are situated before their entrances , are ° contin ll h u a y s ifting their situation and form . This is most prejudicial to navigation , and in consequence all these har bours , with the exception of the Manukau , which alone is navigable by larger vessels , are only available for small coasters . — The most southern of these harbours A otea and Kawhia m are represented on this ap . ” W hain ar oa sea six The g harbour is a small inlet , to seven off miles long , branching in many directions , and divided into two parts by a long peninsula . Into the northern bay flows W hain ar oa u the g river , and into the southern the Waitet na . nl 60 80 The harbour is o y navigable for vessels of from to tons , which generally anchor near the outlet but by boats it is possible to keep up a communication with the most remote branches . At low water the harbour is almost empty ; large mud flats are exposed , the narrow channels only retaining M a water . The aori popul tion of the neighbourhood amounts 74 E PLAN ATION r I IE P X o T MA S .

400 of r 122 to about , and that the European settle s to , there bein g amongst the latter some twenty far mers with their l w fami ies . About a mile inland from the heads is the to nship 1 859 it of Raglan . In consisted of from six to eight houses ,

- amongst which was , of course , a public house and a store . Not

l 011 W far from Rag an , also the south side , is the esleyan t th . O on e Mission Station pposite , the nor h side , is Maori village Horea , and an old pa .

The borders of the Waitetuna consist of a sandy clay marl , n of a tertiary age, containi g some , but very few fossils species of I s ocar dium T u rbinolia an d Turritella , , and Natica , also a ,

of some beautiful for aminifer oe . The hills on the south side the harbour consist of many summits of basalt . Raglan is

011 situated a soft ferruginous sandstone , which is nothing but h O 011 of ardened sea sand . pposite to Raglan , the north side the harbour, and along the borders , is a most picturesque lime

of stone formation , consisting tabular masses built up in horizontal strata . Washed and eroded by the sea, these masses assume the most singular shapes : towers sixty to seventy f &c. eet high , high walls , columns , O S n the south ide of the harbour is the mountain , an t extinct volcano of rachydolerite , with a broad and numerously h i branched summit , whic , penetrating far nto the sea, forms a very prominent object.

The Aotea harbour is an estuary which , behind its narrow e r wi of nt ance , spreading out into a shallow bay of a dth

of two to three miles , and a length six miles , and which , with

x few the e ception of a very small channels , is at low water O almost dry . n the west coast is situated the Maori village

Rau r au kau era s — Bee chamdale , and a We leyan Mission School . F our European families and 270 natives were the whole ’ 1 85 9 D iefi enb ach population in . reckoned the number of 1 40 120 n 8 0. atives , in , at di S The geological con tions are imple and instructive , as the formations seen apart in the W haingar oa are here placed

- super imposed . They can best be observed in a high f o -e cli f, situated on the s uth ast side , and visible from a r O r atan i g eat distance , called by the Maoris g , which means ‘ that stones fall here with much noise . At the bottom lies a stratum of 40 feet of the same grey clay marl as that of PLA IO or T P EX N A T N IIE MA S . 7 5

hain ar oa w . the W g harbour , ith very few petrifactions I only

found one Inoceramus and a few pectens . Above this marl f f n o . are large ba ks calcareous sandstone , rich in petri action It of W hain ar oa is the same formation as the tabular limestone g ,

the strata varying , some being more sandy, and others more f . Puketoa of calcareous At the cli f, which stands at the edge

the water , I collected petrifactions belonging to the following

: Cu cu laea H ollici es genera Pecten , Spondylus , , Terebratula , p , m S chizas ter . Scalaria , and The marl and sandstone for ations

make hill land all round the Aotea harbour , which is indented

by innumerable small bays . Near the Heads the sandbanks 300 400 i rise to a height of to feet , and traces of l gnite may be

discovered at high water mark . 6 7 3 4 The Kawhia harbour is from to miles long , to miles n broad , and is i tersected by many navigable channels , between hi and w ch are laid bare at low water shallow mud sandbanks . The entrance to this harbour is narrowed to only half a mile by — a far extending land tongue Te Maika . At the entrance are

ufine bars , which co the navigation of the harbour only to

smaller craft . The coasting trade is partly carried 011 by

Europeans and by Maoris . Six European families are settled

on ff v di erent localities of the harbour , and the number of nati es 1 85 9 were in the year from five to six thousand .

’ The steep and abrupt coast wall of the south Side of the

Takatahi of harbour , in the neighbourhood of , is built up steep

strata of sandstone and calcareous marl . It was here I had the pleasure of finding the first New Zealand ammonites and f . s O celandicu s I n ocer a other petri actions (Ammonite now ,

&c - Takatahi mus Haastii , . ) In the south westerly direction of ,

lan d~ oint also on the south side , is Ahuahu , a p on the Waiha r akeke channel , in the neighbourhood of the Wesleyan Mission B Station, where there is a rich mine of belemnites ( elemnites

ckl di s f A u an cu . . if o var minor) The cl fs are clay , of a greenish brown colour , the steep strata of which alternate with hardened i l me marl . At low water it is possible to collect the belemnites at ff the foot of the cli s in great numbers . The natives call them

e - fish Rok kanae, which means the excrements of the kanae . The whole southern borders of the Kawhia Harbour consists o f strata containing belemnites and ammonites belonging to Jurasic a e the system . The s me tertiary argillac ous marl and A N A N TH 76 EXPL TIO OP E MAPS . limestone which appear at the Aotea and W haingaroa Harbours appear also at the northern bank of the W aihar akeke

al River , forming the border walls and distributed in most horizontal strata over the whole south- eastern side to the Awaroa River . At the Rakaunui River these chalk banks ’ reach to the water s edge , and form along the coast the most o picturesque rocks in the shape of towers and ruins , in cons qu ence of which this part of the Kawhia Harbour has been designated the New Zealand Switzerland . The romantic and various shapes assumed by the torn and worn masses of w e rocks surprises the eye every here , while in the vall ys , l of where lie the vil ages the natives , the rich fields of corn and maize delight the beholder . I consider this as one of the most beautiful and fertile distr icts of New Zealand which of I have seen . The character the landscape remains the same far 1000 up into the mountains , and feet above the harbour white masses of rock penetrate through the verdure of the of forest and bush . Hence the name Castle Hills for these

n W henu a u mountains , which the atives call p . This neigh

rh od b ou o also possesses numerous caves . This limestone formation appears also on the n orth side of the Kawhia H B a and arbour , in the Towara y, on the Puti River it is rich in large oysters and terebratulae. The east side of the harbour consists partly of scattered volcanic tufa and conglomerate , which are connected with the

h - tr ac . O y dolerite chain of Pirongia ver these mountains , paths thickly covered with bush lead inwards to the Waipa LECTU RE ON THE GEOLOGY OF TH E PROVI NCE OF

NELSON .

O N E . F . V O BY DR . H CHST TTER

L DI D N T N I t A ES A N GE LEME , is with much pleasure that I respond to the wish expressed by you , and at the same time f eolo fulfil my promise of communicating the results o my g gical explorations in a lecture on the geology of this Province and it is with a feeling of pride that I s ee s o large and distin gu ished an assemblage met here this evening . O n my arrival in Nelson , in the beginning of the month of s o August , I hardly hoped to be able to extend my researches f fa r as to obtain an accurate idea of the geological features o the Province . The time allotted to me was very short the l on geological field of the Midd e Island , which I was entering, was , in comparison with that of the Northern Island , an entirely

e B B a n w one . Entering into lind y upon a bright morning , I

- s aw all round me lofty snow covered mountain chains . It was n of the middle of winter , and I doubted whether at this seaso the year extended geological researches were possible . This doubt was soon removed the glorious weather which favoured my excursions gave me full confidence in the far-famed and

- deservedly praised Nelson climate . My first exploration opened up to me a field at once so interesting as regards scientific research , and a at the same time of so great practic l importance , from and the existence of those very valuable substances , gold , coal , u of copper , that , in order to give greater value to the res lts n my observations , I willi gly resolved to respond to the wish of the inhabitants , and to remain a month longer among you . I feel myself in the highest degree obliged to the inhabitants ’ of who s o n a in this Province, , soo as the Novar arrived of n i t Auckland , invited the members the expeditio to v si

for n for Nelson , the honourable and hospitable receptio , and e a n e in e n e I the activ ssista c the pros cutio of my obj cts , which 8 T H E G P N 7 EOLO G Y O ELSON . have met with 011 all sides and I wish to take this opportunity of expressing my thanks to the P rovin cial Government for the admirable arrangements which on its part were made so as to of extend to the utmost limit the sphere my explorations , and enable me to occupy to the greatest advantage the limited time at my disposal .

Allow me , before proceeding further , to give you an account m ff of , y di erent journeys , and to detail to you the places which

I have visited . I began in the immediate neighbourhood of the town of S B V Nelson, by a hort excursion to rook Street alley , and a ’ - . e visit to Mr Jenkins brown coal mine . I th n proceeded in ’ the Tasmanian Maid , which the Government had chartered Cr oixelles B for this extra trip , to Harbour and Current asin , and examined the vein s of copper ore which Show themselves there . B s F We proceeded up Current a in as far as the rench Pass ,

B O whau a and on our return landed in the ight of , on the ’ ’ - D U r ville s I South eastern corner of sland , where copper ore F . of is also found rom thence we steamed , without loss time , B a w during the night , across to Golden y, where I ent on shore

C w -fields at olling ood , and visited the gold and the bone caves of the Aorere valley . Thence I proceeded along the coast to

- field Pakawau , and examined the coal there , and the graphite

T au mat a which is found in the hill at e . Returning overland

Ba from Golden y to Nelson , I visited , on the way , the Parapara

- field - gold , the brown coal deposit at , followed the course ofthe Takaka Valley upwards , crossedthe mountain range that divides the Takaka andRiwaka valleys , and passing through

Motueka, reached Nelson by the Moutere and the Waimea . Another day was devoted to an examin ation of the Boulder

Bank and the ArrowRock . I next proceeded by the valley of

M itai the a to an examination of the Dun Mountain . I next

' a visited the Wakapuaka district and the Happy V lley and , at a later date , in an opposite direction , spent some time in examining the fossiliferous of Richmond and the Wairoa

Valley . had made myself acquainted with the geological relations of the nearer lying districts of Golden and Blind B a s a e s n ays , arrangements were made for more di t nt xcur io

80 T H E G r N N GEOLO Y o ELSO .

e l s allowed, without m ntioning individua names , to expres my most sincere thanks to all these gentlemen for their active assistance and valuable contributions to the Novara’ collee

tion . I have begun to put together on a map the results of my

Observations , with the view of laying the foundation of a G of of eological Map the Province Nelson . So soon as time w will allo me to complete this map , I will hand over to you a copy O f it with pleasure ; at the same time expressing a Wish

that the numerous friends Of geology among you , and if they

ll s a m will a ow me to y it , y geological scholars here , may

continue it and improve it , where I , either from want of time or inaccessibility of the district, have not been able to fill in

the details .

now t I will come to the subjec matter of my lecture .

— T A " . I . PHYSIC L FEA URES The character of the surface is always more or less indicative f of the geological structure o a country . Even to those who ff have not deeply studied the science , the di erent forms which l ff mountain ranges show , wi l indicate a di erent geological

formation . The difference in these external appearances Of

the country is very striking , if you come from the Northern

to the Southern Island . In contrast with the comparatively low plateaus extending nl over the largest part of the Northern Island , and broken o y

on by high volcanic peaks , you find the Middle Island lofty and s abrupt mountain range , striking in long parallel chains ,

a divided by deep longitudinal v lleys , and broken at right angles of by rocky gorges . This complication rock and gorge runs as the great backbone of the island from north - north - east to

- - s . W south outh west, and from strait to strait ell do you name ” i n it your Southern Alps . Amongst them rises grandeur a O f mountain named after the great discoverer the South Sea , B of . Mount Cook , a height equal to Mont lanc It towers

‘ above the rest , crowned with perpetual snow, with ravines T O a ff glistenin g with glacier ice . the steep perpendicul r cli s with which the Southern Al ps breast the stormy s ea on the e west coast , are Opposed fertile plains ext nding along the

eastern shore . 8 1 T H E GEOLOGY or N ELSON .

n of F rom a central point , which (near the bou dary line the t w o Provinces of Canterbury and Nelson) gives rise to the

-n a n Hurunui and Waiau Rivers , flowi g to the eastward , and

Enu n ahu a to the Grey and g , flowing to the westward , the Southern Alps send forth two arms through the Province O f of Nelson, the extremities of which are washed by the waters ’ lon itu Cook s Straits . These arms are again subdivided by g a s ix dinal valleys into numerous r nges , with peaks from five to thousand feet high . I will distinguish between the two arms ” of W by giving the name the estern Ranges to those which , B a with a northerly strike , terminate in Massacre y, between ' an d F of Separation Point Cape arewell , and the name the

s i - Eastern Range to those which , runn ng in a north easterly

Pelor ou s direction , terminate in the and Queen Charlotte

Sound . In the acute angle between the two ranges are situated the L ul akes Rotoiti and Rotorua , from which und ating hills , intersected by numerous streams , gradually slope from an altitude of feet to the plains of the Waimea and the f shores o Blind Bay. I can hardly remember a more beautiful and more striking scene than when I first looked , on a clear winter day , from a high point on the Richmond Hills o ver the fertile , lying like a map beneath my feet , studded with home s v teads and covered with culti ations , towards that triangle of

- snow capped ranges .

confi u It is , without doubt , in consequence of the peculiar g O f B Ba ration the mountain ranges , that lind y is favoured with an extraordinarily temperate climate . The western and the

r n easte ranges Of Nelson , converging towards the south , form

r hi of a egular wedge , w ch diverts on the one side the force the

- e on south west rly winds , and the other side the force of the

- of south easterly winds . Those parts of the Province Nelson

of which are not enclosed between the legs the triangle , do not

a enjoy the same serenity of climate . In Golden B y and in the Wairau country, which lie respectively to the west and to

in i of the east , the l ne the bounding ranges , gales Of wind and bad weather generally are much more frequent than in Blind B ay . “ The n h ns spout wind , blowi g wit co iderable violence T H E G G O F N E N EOLO Y LSO . du r m n B g the summer from the south , is a local wi d of lind

Ba y, due to the same physical configuration of the country .

of of l The calm heated air the Waimea plains and the low hi ls , rising in Obedience to physical laws into the higher levels of

l of the atmosphere , is sudden y replaced by volumes colder and w denser air , which rush down to ards the plains from the mountain ranges behind . I have made these remarks in order to Offer an explanation O f some O f the most striking peculiarities of the N els On climate

- the Montpellier of New Zealand .

- I I G T . . G EOLO ICAL FEA URES

The western and the eastern ranges of Nelson a r e totally different in their geological character . The western ranges O f il t l consist primitive formation , being bu t up of old crys a line

or . schists , metamorphic rocks The eastern ranges are the di Oldest se mentary strata , primary formation , broken through in places by masses of plutonic rocks . The lower undulating hills lying in the angle between the two ranges are nothing but an immense accumulation of debris from the mountain

on of ranges either side , rolled together by the action the

s ea . , which in former ages washed the bases Of the mountains

" W G old Co er hen I say in the western ranges , pp in the 0m e eastern ranges , and in the basins betw en them , I have indicated the chief mineral characteristics of the region

ll O f referred to . I wi now speak more in detail the

P r imi ive or ma tion the s ter n Ran s (1) t F of PVe ge .

Taking a cross section from east to west , through the w su b - estern ranges , we find the divisions of the primitive forma

ne tion s ucceeding to o another in their normal geological order . — (a ) G neis s a nd G r a nite Z one The western shores of

B B a of lind y, from Separation Point to , consist a granite , bordered on the e stern side opposite to the Tata

O f Islands by gneiss . This same zone granite and gneiss may be traced in a southerly direction up the River to the of W confluence the angapeka, and is cut through by the ’ B ll it O f D G u er River , where \ enters the gorge the evil s rip on

s of the western ranges , and extends all along the eastern lope the mountains as far as the Rotorua Lake . ‘ T H E G EOLO G Y O F N ELSON . 8 7

o e o b n (b. ) Z n f I I orn le Je S chis t a nd Ckrysta lline L imes tone - Proceeding from the granite and gneiss towards w on Pikikernn a the est, we next meet , the top of the g range , on between Riwaka and Takaka , a broad zone , which horn

- - blende schists , quartz schists , and crystalline limestone succeed n one another in regular and umerous alternating strata , with di n a vertical p and a strike nearly due north a d south . This formation continues in a westerly direction to the opposite side a of the Takak valley , where it is broken through by eruptive

di - sh masses of orite porphyry and serpentine , which ow them

k in r s elves ia the Stony Cree and W a ga oa . The same zone of crystalline schists exhibits itself in the steep escarpments O f the gorge of the Wangapeka . A characteristic feature of this limestone formation is the existence of numerous funnel w shaped pits , which have been hollo ed out by the action Of water , which has dissolved the limestone . The interesting phenomenon of the W aikar omnmu springs in the Takaka valley , where whole rivers suddenly appear on is the surface with the water bubbling , readily explained by a subterranean passage of the water through the limestone from n the ra ges . This crystalline limestone on the ranges must not the be confounded with the other limestone in Takaka valley , which belongs to the tertiary period .

l i a - ch s t a d u r - elzis t — (a ) Zf c S i n Q a tz S . The crest of the western ranges , with peaks rising to an altitude of about feet , the

A natoki n mountains, Mou t Arthur , and the chain lying between the source of the Wangapeka River and the B ullcr of river gorge , consists mica schists , containing garnets , alter nating w ith quartz schists . — at Z one Cla S la te ( ) y Still proceeding towards the west , the - hi mica sc sts pass , by insensible gradations , into clay slates , w i hich , however , st ll exhibit the same alternating strata of

- 011 quartz . The Aorere valley and the lofty peaks its L O l eastern side , as the Slate River peak , ead Hill , Mount y

u s an d H au iri - e p , the p range , generally belong to the clay slat zone . In all these ranges the strata are more or less vertical , and exhibit unmistakable signs of great disturbance at former i u s . F or O geological periods nstance , Mount lymp presents the peculiar appearance Of strata diverging from below to wards fan of n n . A the serrated edge the mou tai , like the folds of a G N 88 TH E GEOLOGY or N ELSO .

similar disposition O f strata is Observed on the loftiest summit

O f E B . urope , namely, on Mont lanc

G old.

I - - e n n s n the mica slate and clay slate zone of the west r ra ge , F r w e have the matrix of the gold . om the interest attaching

to this subject , I may be allowed to repeat the limits of these

- m m gold bearing for ations . On the east these for ations are bounded by the Takaka valley ; on the wes t by the Aorere

s o valley , that its breadth is from fifteen to twenty miles , and A n atoki H au ir i includes the and p ranges . In a southerly direction the same formations can be traced to the gorge of the r . How much furthe it extends in that direction has not yet been ascertained ; but inasmuch as gold has been

found at the northern extremity of the Southern Alps , and of a O f O also in the gravels the Mataur , in the Province tago , d nu towar s the southern extremity of the backbone , it is not reasonable to infer that the same gold-bearing zone may extend continuously throughout the whole length of the Middle

Island .

B m O f - fields efore speaking ore specially the gold , I wish to i correct some of the theories popularly om rent among the

O f diggers , according to which gold is to be traced to the action its fire . The gold , in original position , is in larger or smaller particles dispersed throughout the quartzos e constituents o f

- i the mica and clay slate format ons . By the gradual wearing

of away these rocks , through the action Of the elements , d s exten ing over immense periods of time , large ma ses of debris m n have b een for ed , and nature itself has executed an operatio

- ll of gold washing , by co ecting the heavier particles and depo

in r siting them the gullies of the st eams , or in the conglomerates f covering the slopes O the hills . n n i There are , therefore , two pri cipal descriptio s of digg ngs “ “ either river diggings , in the beds of the streams , or dry ” ul diggings , in the conglomerate and gravel accum ated on the m slopes of the ountains . I will first describe the best -known and most worked of your — - l - d fie ds the fiel . gold namely , Aorere and the Parapara gold

T he A or er e a nd P ard a r a G o d F ield — Y ou a p l are all ware , that the gold in the Aorere valley is confined to the eastern 9 TH E GEOLOGY or N ELSON . s ide of the valley the only traces of gold found on the K bu t western side are on the aituna stream , not indicating

on a any rich deposit that side , which , as fertile gricultural Y ou kn land , must be left to the farmer . ow that all the tributaries of the Aorere river proceeding from the H au pir i ’ as A oo s range , , for instance , pp River , the Slate River with its ff B di erent branches , the oulder Rivers , Salisbury Creek , and also the Parapara River , which proceed northwards from the

or same range , have been more less successfully worked by n various parties of diggers . The rounded ature of the gold particles shows that the gold has been brought down by water and the fact that the heaviest gold is fo u nd in the upper parts of as of the streams , points clearly to the mountains the source the metal . B ut it would be improper to speak about an Aorere gold

the field , if the gold were con fined to deep and narrow gorges

- s . Of the streams , cut down into the clay late rocks

The whole region of the eastern side of the Aorere valley , ris in g from the river be d tow ards the steep sides of the moun tains at an inclination of about eight degrees , and occupying C from the larke River towards the south , to the Parapara on 40 is the north , a superficial extent Of about English miles , a

- ld w fie . gold Throughout this hole district , on the foot of the

wé n de os l ted on range , find a co glomerate p the top of the slate

of . rocks , reaching in some places a thickness twenty feet Pieces of driftwood changed into brown - coal indicate a probably f h a tertiary age O t is conglomerate formation . W here a ferr

inou s g cement binds the boulders and the gravel together , this conglomerate is compact in other places only fine sand lies

- between the larger stones . Quartz and clay slate boulders are m the most commonly met with . This conglo erate formation cu t O f is not only through by the deep gullies the larger streams , but in some places washed by the more superficial action of

s o occasional water, and divided into parallel and rounded

of of ridges , which that portion the district called the Quartz

s e Range is a characteristic example . This conglomerat

- field in formation must be regarded as the real gold , prepared

of from o f a gigantic manner by the hand nature , the detritus

u e a o f the mountains , for the more detailed and min te op r tions r 90 T H E GEOLOGY o NELSON .

n r - s While the less exte sive , but generally icher river digging f d a ford better prospect of gain to the in ividual digger , the dry diggings in the conglomerate will afford remunerative returns to associations of individuals who will work with a combina tion of labour and capital . The intelligent and energetic gold

shb ou r n the . W a digger , Mr , is the first person who has proved value of the dry diggings in the Quartz Ranges , and has demonstrated the fact that gold exists in remunerative quan

h rn . a s bou tities in the conglomerate I am indebted to Mr . W for the following interesting details: He writes to me as follows In the drives into the conglomerate of the quartz two ranges , the average thickness of dirt washed is about feet from the base rock ; a nd the gold produced from one cubic

r ya d of such earth would be, as nearly as I can calculate , worth

“ - fi from twenty ve to thirty shillings . This includes large

O f r boulders ; so that a cubic yard earth , as it goes th ough the

is of m sluice , course worth more , as the boulders for a large proportion of the whole . Where the earth is washed from the

k - surface to the roc , the value per cubic yard is much less not

l s ix l worth more, perhaps , than from three shil ings to shil ings ” r per ya d , and it would generally pay very well at that .

lVith . this data, the following calculation may be made We will reckon the superficial extent of the Aorere and Parapara gold -fields at thirty English square miles the average thicknes s

- one of the gold bearing conglomerate , at a very low. rate, at a n d cu bic i yard ; the value of gold in one yard at five shill ngs .

U a of -field pon this dat , the value the Aorere gold is

or for one square mile .

- I am not a practical gold digger myself, but I will leave it to those who are more versed in that pursuit to contrive the means by which this wealth may be best extracted from the

. ash soil Considering that Mr . W b ou rn was able to pay his i men wages from ten to twelve shill ngs a day , and still to make a O f considerable profit , the richness of the deposit gold in the conglomerate is clearly proved . Y ll the ou may a ow me to add , from inquiries I made on spot , the number O f diggers working on the Aorere and Parapara dig tha gings is not more mab ou t two hundred and fifty . Although i s O f the d gger cannot be at work continually , a large portion time being occupied in bringing their provisions across a

92 T H E O O Y o r N E L sO N GE L G .

— u as Titaniferous iron , magnetic iron , and garnets not r bies — generally thought are everywhere found on the river diggings o f the Province . It must be left to the energy of future

is explorers to determine if there be not , as it most probable

- field - field there is , a similar gold as the Aorere gold , hidden m e under the dense forests on the eastern p of the ranges . — lVG ngap elca W ith a view to exploring the country lyin g to

of - the south the Takaka, on the eastern side of the gold bearing formations , I made a j ourney to the Wangapeka . My guide

ffi w as to that country , most di cult of access , Mr . Clarke , who O had formerly been prospecting there for gold . n this occa of sion I had the pleasure of the company the Superintendent . if The Wangapeka , as large not larger than the Motueka , near its j unction with the Sherry River , runs through a wide terraced valley . The hills bordering the valley are composed of tertiary

. on strata , marl , sandstone , and limestone At places the sides o f a the valley , gr nitic rocks show themselves as the foundation t Of the tertiary s rata . The boulders and shingle brought by e the the river from the deep gorge , through which it nters

011 n broad valley , prove, examinatio , that the river takes its

- origin in a zone of hornblende schists , and crystalline lime

of stone , the continuation the formations between Takaka and f Riwaka . There is therefore no reason to expect an auri erous

- river bed . I might here mention that this valley seems the peculiar home of wild pigs , the immense number of which have w e rooted up the whole surface . The wet weather experienced prevented my exploring those rivers which take their rise

t - t - fur her westward , in the mica sla e and clay slate ranges as I

for B expect , as , instance , the atten River and its branches . It w as here that Mr . Clarke found the best result of his prospect

. of ing expedition He found not only gold , but , on the edges t the ter iary formation towards the crystalline ranges , large seams of coal cropping out .

As a very probable gold country , I should recommend the exploring O f the high range situated between the sources of

Van a eka f u I O B . s o the g p and the gorge the ller That range is , the O f far as I can judge, continuation the Mount Arthur ,

A n atoki H au ir i , and p ranges . I shall here after find an opportunity to remark upon the T H E LO or N N GEO GY ELSO . 93

M of otueka diggings , and will conclude this portion my

- fields lecture by stating that the Nelson gold are a fact , and that which is at present kn own is but the beginning of a series di of scoveries which time will bring to light . n With regard to other mi erals in the western ranges , there

O f B ut are no indications quicksilver , as it was supposed , Mr . Skeet informed me that pieces Of lead ore are found in the

' n n or e W ai garo River ; and large masses of brow iron , which i have been mistaken , from their somewhat s milar appearance ,

e . n e for scoria, are deposit d at the Parapara This has give ris to the idea of the Parapara being volcanic .

P imar F or ma tions in the E as tern R an es r y g .

The eastern ranges are O f an entir elv different geological formation to those just described in the west ; old primary O f te f slates and sandstones , very various charac r, orm lofty a ridges , intersected by parallel longitudinal v lleys . The strata a are all more or less vertical , and the par llelism of their strike from north-east to south -west conti nues with remarkable O b e regularity . ne and the same stratum can traced from ’ Cook s Straits to the far interior in the south .

In the central ridge , which has its northern termination in O f Mount Stokes , between the waters the Pelorus and Queen

CharlottO Sou n d the a cr stalline character , slates exhibit more y . ’ At Ship s Cove and Shakespeare Bay in Queen Charlotte lin Sound, in the Kaituna Pass and other places , almost crystal e

- n r micaceous clay slates , with quartz layers and vei s , occu . On either side of this central ridge the slates exhibit a more

- sedimentary character , alternating with dioritic schists , with ds amygdaloids , with very compact san tones , approaching the character of graywacke . As no fossils have yet been found in those oldest sedimentary New Zealand schists , it is impossible to assign to them their geological place in a European classifi f cation o strata .

The slate and sandstone ridges are flanked by serpentine .

B Blarich A watere elow the confluence of the River with the , where the side of the mountain has slipped with an earthquake ’ M arc s rent , serpentine appears . The Grey Tail is a waterfall ff n n s over a serpentine cli . The serpe ti e extend , in a south o Blarich M westerly directi n , through the valley towards ount T H E G O F N E L sO N 945 GEOLO Y .

M - 2000 owatt , whose south eastern slope to a height of about

Bl ri feet is composed of serpentine . In the bed O f the a ch of River , Mr Haast found a piece copper ore of the same description as the Dun Mountain ores . O side the n a mu ch n the western , serpenti e occurs developed to n greater exte t . An immense serpentine dyke , of a thickness of ’ ’ s h O f D U r ville s everal miles , stretches from the nort ern extremity Cr oixelles Island , across the French Pass , through the , by the

U on Dun Mountain and pper Wairoa , and is met with again , on a continuation of the same straight line , the Red Hills ,

- on near the Top house , the northern side of the Wairau valley . This dyke can thus be traced from n orth - east to south - west for O f a distance O f eighty miles . The strike the serpentine dyke is perfectly parallel to that of the slates , but its eruptive origin is proved by the occurrence O f a breccia of friction (Reibu n gs at ' O f breccia) the line of contact, and the fact beds of slate enclosed in it being converted into hard and semi -vetr ified ’ has cherts . The serpentine , in its turn , been broken through

O f by eruptive dykes of hypersthenite and gabbro . The rock

O f of s o the Dun Mountain proper is a variety serpentine , novel and peculiar a character that I am obliged to apply to it ” a new term , and call it Dunnite . The Dun Mountain district offers to the scientific geologist a field of unbounded interest ; but I shall perhaps best respond to the wishes of my audience by telling them something about the ores of copper and chromate of iron which are the characteristic metals of that s erpentine dyke .

e The occurr nce of native copper, red oxide of copper , and D un copper pyrites , the principal copper ores of the Mountain , e i s by no m ans peculiar to the serpentine of New Zealand . In of a i the serpentine district Cornw ll , for nstance , native copper

i s n . a fou d The Monte Ram zzo , near Genoa , contains copper n in ores in serpe tine , and North America the s ame thing occurs .

n . and I have visited (accompa ied by Mr Hacket Mr . Wrey) all the workings of the Dun Mountain . I could not convince

c so myself of the existen e of a number of parallel lodes , as to justify the various names which have been given, and which a ff he appe r to designate di erent lodes . T D un Mountain 95 T H E GEOLOGY or N EL sO N . copper ore does not occur in a regular lode by which I mean a metalliferous dyke of different mineral composition from that

f . n Of the rock O the mountain As is usual in serpe tine , the copper ore occurs only in nests and bunches . The richer

C deposits of o pper ore form lenticular shaped masses , which , when followed , may increase to a certain distance , but then disappear agai n in a thin wedge . Where these nests are large

on e . and rich , alone may sometimes make the fortune of a mine The richest found on the Dun Mountain appears to have been

of VVin dtr a G O f that the p ully , from which pieces native copper (some of them weighing as much as eight pounds) were O f or e extracted . These nests copper occur in the Dun in continu ou s Mountain one line , as if a rent had taken place C in the serpentine rock , into which opper had either been injected from beneath , or deposited there by the operation of

s is some cause which science unable to explain . The green

and blue silicates of copper are surface minerals , which are only of value by showing the direction O f the fissure in which he t real ore may be looked for at a greater depth . At a a l certain distance below the surface , they disappe r entire y , and it is only by the broken and softened character of the serpentinethat the mi ner is enabled to follow the fissure from one

deposit of metal to the other . The occurrence O f the bes t indications of copper ore on the surface over a continuous O f ff line about two miles , a ords good ground for supposing that considerable quantities of ore are contained in the mountain

on ' but , the other hand , owing to the manner in which the ores n occur in isolated bunches , mi ing Operations in such a region are always attended by less certain profits than where the metal is deposited is a regular lode and I may be allowed to express a hop e that the Dun Mountain may prove to be all

that the Nelson people could wish .

Cr oixelles n B In and in Curre t asin, where copper minin g

n . Operations have been carried on , the i dications were very n e Obscure , and the result has proved that there is no reaso abl

ground to expect a profitable copper mine there . More promising specimens O f copper ore have been Obtained from ’ ’ D U rville s Island . The character of the ores met with there is e in D un M quite the sam as the ountain .

I w add ‘ fe c ma e O f i s ill a w words about hro t ron, Thi 96 T H E O E N EL s O N GEOLOGY .

O f mineral is an ordinary accompaniment serpentine rock , and

D un n O ts occurs in the Mou tain in great force . f i commercial value I do not feel myself qualified to speak , but should its

s o value be considerable, the abundance of it is great that it must prove a source of much wealth to the mine .

of Having described the central parts the western ranges , s n s and the erpenti e which flank it, there still remains to me to O ld describe a zone of , which lies between the

B B a on serpentine on the east, and lind y and the Waimea plain the west . The best section of this zone is obtained by follow m g of M aitai D un up the course the to the Mountain . Imme diately to the west of the serpentine we meet with a belt of n calcareous schists , which attains its highest elevatio on the

as o summit known the Wooded Peak , and continues n its strike parallel with the serpentine dyke . Proceeding to the s O f we tward , we pass over a band greenish and reddish coloured five En slates , of a thickness of about glish miles . The same

O f far description slates continues all along the ranges , as as

O f an the Big Bush road to the Wairau . The absence y fossil remains in the calcareous schists and in the slates prevents me from assig ning to them with confidence their geological m age . I give the therefore a local name, and call them the i i Green and Red Ma ta Slates . In places these slates are broken k thr ough and altered by eruptive roc s , as , for instance , in a Brook Street valley by diabase, and near Wakapuak by n sie ite . e n ar F rma i ons S co d y o t .

~ Between Nelson and Wakapuaka, black slates and shales fi nd are found close to the edge of the water . In these we the

first indications of organic remains . Of the nature of these organic rem ains I have not been able perfectly to satisfy myself ; they appear , however, to belong to the vegetable

n - n kingdom , and have more resembla ce to sea weeds tha any thing else .

In the same line , further south , the Richmond sandstones form the boundary of the western ranges . NO less interest w attaches to these sandstones , hich contain many and perfect

so I f u fossil molluscs , and are , far as know, the Oldest fossili ero s n a s trata in the Provi ce . The fossils belong to the gener M u Monotis A l ytil s , , vicula, Spirifer, Terebratu a, which seem r N EL s O N r u n GEOLOGY o . 97

to indicate a secondary age for the formations . If I were to trace any analogy between these strata and any European s a a formation , I should y that they occupied in New Zeal nd a E the place filled by the Muschelk lk in urope . I have described now the formations O f the higher ranges O f B ill the Province . efore leaving them I w Observe that they for possess an extraordinary interest the botanist . Dr . Monro and Dr . Sinclair have brought from those regions specimens

of s n ew n . the greate t interest , and to scie ce And a large l in field is sti l open for those who will follow their steps . Zoologists may be surprised to hear that on the top of limestone ranges between to feet high , at the

Pikiker u n a - g and the Mannga tapu , a large land snail , or helix , f01m d B u sb i d is , as large as the Helix y of the Northern Islan , A natoki m Mr . Skeet found a live specimen on the ountains A n . . f and to Mr W skew, at Riwaka, I am i debted for a per ect specimen O f that new and rare shell .

P akawa u Coa l F ields .

- field I come now to speak about the Pakawau coal , as probably belonging to the secondary period . The Pakawau coal - field overlies the mica and clay - slate formations of the western ranges . The Pakawau stream exposes various strata

O f a-field the co l , its conglomerate , sandstone , shales , and seams n of coal . There have bee workings on the exposed seams on O f both sides of the stream . A quantity coal extracted from a O f on seam four feet thickness the north side , which has lain x e posed to the weather for two years , and still remains in the condition in which it was extracted , at once convinced me O f the difference existing between this coal and the other New

a w . Ze land coals hich I have seen The coal is a dense, heavy , of black coal , a laminated structure, breaking in large pieces e which do not crumble . In the ev ning I burned the coal in a fireplace , and was pleased with the large amount of flame and ou t wi heat given by it , thout sulphureous or other disagreeable

. n t smell It burned away to a clea whi e ash . Mr Curtis has i w O f l k ndly for arded to me an analysis this coa , made in the

1853 Theo h H l ~ . . ea e M year , by Mr p , at Auckland . r. H eale f proved the excellent qualities o the coal as a gas co al ; the n O f ar n not e n 5 3 qua tity c bo ( mor tha per cent . ) would not 98 TH E G G or N EL s N EOLO Y O .

. confer upon this coal a high character as fuel ; but this low per - centage probably arose from the piece submitted to analysis w being mixed ith shale . To me it appears that the coal must 70 contain at least per cent . of carbon , and that it will be found for a very excellent coal steam purposes .

O t exhi n the southern side Of the s ream , the old workings bited the following sections Shale Coal Shale Coal Sandstone Coal 1 2 Shale

O ld a Thus , the natural sections and the workings show v rious

of of seams , but none of them great thickness , and in all them more or less bands O f shale.

h - is The dip of the seam is towards sout west that , towards the West Wanganui harbour , at an angle of twenty degrees ,

- field a and the coal re ches , undoubtedly , from Pakawau to West

-field Wanganui . In a coal of such extent , it may be with ffi confidence a rmed that seams of much greater thickness exist , and the way to ascertain their existence , is to make borings . That is the first thing for any company to do which undertakes

- to work this very val uable coal field. My reason for assigning

-field a e to this coal a secondary g , is the existence of impressions

dicotel dones of fossil plants , referable to calamites , ferns , and y

- field Although the Pakawau coal does not belong " to the c n i i arbo iferous period, experience w ll show that the coal w ll rank in quality with the black coals of Older date . I proceed from these older coals to the tertiary period and

- the brown coal formation .

i ( t ) Ter tiary F ormations .

The tertiary formations which I Observed in the districts of G olden and Blind Bays belong to that group which I men e tioned in my Auckland lecture as the Older one . All the wid ’ valleys and b asins which from the shores of Co ok s Straits rim

i inl and w en the i it v nd r mr ran are bet e , h gh prim i e a p a y ges ,

100 TH E GEOLOGY or NELS ON .

— perfect yet found in New Zealand was the reward O f further

s res earche .

- field Being obliged myself to leave for the Pakawau coal , my friend Haas t remained behind in company with the young

s . surveyor, Mr . Maling , to make more extensive researche The ’ O f cave ff bottom a second , the Sta ord s cave , was turned up ,

t of . and the bo tom a third one , the Moa Cave The excitement

- for the Of the moa diggers was great , and increased ; deeper w they went belo the stalagmite crusts covering the floor , the larger were the bones they found , and whole legs , from the

- w . hip bone to the claws Of the toes , ere exposed They dug t and washed three days and three nights , and on the four h C l day they returned in triumph to ollingwood , fo lowed by two

- paek bullocks loaded with moa bones . I must confess that not only was it a cause O f great excite

O f C ment to the people ollingwood , but also to myself, as the gigantic bones w ere laid before ou r view . A Maori bring ing me two living kiwis fromRocky River gave us an opportunity to compare the remains Of the extinct species O f the family

A ' with the living p ter ia . It gives me much pleasure to acknowledge the zeal and

of exertions my countryman and friend Haast , in adding such ’ O f valuable specimens to the collections the Novara expedition .

The Observations of M . Haast , made during this search , throw a new light upon this great family of extinct birds . He found

n s o w as that accordi g to the depth the size of the remains , thus the th proving that greater the antiquity the larger e species . The bones of D inor nis cr a ss us and P a lap ter ia: imyens (a bird standing the height of nine feet) were always found at a lower

' level than the bones O f D inor ms didifor mis (Owen) O f only four feet high . I have the pleasure of showing you here a leg of D izzor nis “ cr ass a sfi

I have since had my collection of bones increased by various

i" Tarsus Tibia F emu r Sprea d O f the claws S 101 TH E G EOL OGY or NEL ON .

d n . an O contributio s from Messrs Wells , Haycock , gg , and a nearly perfect skeleton of P a lcqoter ix inyens presente d by the Nelson Museum to the Imperial Geological Institution of

These gigantic birds belong to an era prior to the human

- incom race , to a post tertiary period . And it is a remarkably fact O f l s prehensible the creation , that whi st at the very ame in period the Old world, elephants , rhinoceroses , hippopotami A in in South merica , gigantic sloths and armadillos Australia ,

s gigantic kangaroo , wombats , and dasyures were living ; the colossal forms O f animal life were represented in New Zealand who by gigantic birds , walked the shores then untrod by the foot O f any quadruped . A characteristic of the tertiary formation O f the Takaka

O f Valley is large masses fossiliferous limestone , beginning at U the Tata Islands , and extending far up the valley . nder the limestone lies the Motupipi brown coal formation , which can ’

l . be traced up the val ey as far as Mr . Skeet s I am indebted to Mr . James B u rnett for carefully drawn and instructive

plans and sections Of the Motupipi working , which at once placed before me the character of the coal field and the succes O f r " s o sion the st ata . I need not here repeat what I have

SECTI N ST R T A T Mor ur i r r M SS CRE Ba r O or A A , A A .

N O 1 SH F T . A . Surface Clay Coal Shale

ft. 1 Coal 2 4 Band O f Shale 0 5 W orking S eam C o al 2 4 Shale of a s andy nature Coal S o f S ands ne com s ed O f v e1 r and ke us ed t to , po y ough s , li cr h a r z n beds of s a e s s one fa s aw a to qu t , with thi h l thi t ll oos e sand n de the ck s and e e l n the shaf l u r pi , but t s v ry w ll t Shale (pretty good roof) Coa a ea d ea O f a e n k l n a nd o ed s 2 ft . l , with gr t l w t r, u . 7 , b r 2 it mo e h . r to t e bottom of this s eam

e d 1 ft f e in s a Bor . urth r h le 102 T H O N L O E GEOLOGY E E S N . recently said at A uckland with regard to the quality and is of economical uses of this coal . The Motupipi coal the of d r same geological age , and the same escription , as the Dru y coal at Auckland . It is to be regretted that works commenced w s o m t ith much judg en and regularity , and which might easily n l be conti ued , should be no onger carried on , in consequence of O f f O f it the high price the fuel , and the di ficulty putting

. f . B on board the ship To obviate the last di ficulty , Mr urnet proposes a coal depot at the Tata Islands , where vessels could easily take it in .

i o a Ter tiary F orma t on f B lind B y .

That the waters Of Blind B ay at one time extended much a further to the south , and covered a larger area , th n they do n ow of , is proved by the fact a tertiary formation filling up the space between the eastern and we s tern ranges from the lake country to the shores O f the W aimea but for the most part this formation is again covered by a more recent deposit

O f rolled stones , gravel , and diluvium , which at some places

E T I O N O F ST R T A T M U P I P I MA A A Y S C T SS CRE B . A A O , N O 2 SH F T A . Sea sand Clay S oft sands tone S andston e (very hard) . E ° ood of . (g ro ) p 5 i 7 Coal a d and ood at s a e nn xed a e (h r g , but thi pl c with littl d . ha d s a s a e c d e ease o a d the s o S r l ty h l , whi h cr s t w r s uth

es and a mos d sa ea s at a d s ance of 7 ft. f om u w t , l t i pp r i t r F k o h af 4 k t e s i b b h t) ta d e I h r S of ands one U O n t s t o ‘ i a - m Dark sh ale (almost l O W , t . O h 7 S of ands on e O O s t t s t o e p n Sand ne ve a d O Q s e n i sto ( ryh r ) a J D dt 1 Sand a N X e y sh le C r d mn ‘- X c F - o Da k s a e F r e e a r h l s ‘- J d a h S a Sh a e m ed coa N o t l ty l , ix with l e 'J p r bt ed h s of s and ne t C i c Bor t rough t sto D n t i a 9 49 Q

This shaft w as abandoned on account of the large qua ntity of water. H ad s not aken ace w as n ended to S nk to a s eam kno n thi t pl , it i t i w to ex s abo lo - a e ma k i t ut w w t r r .

JA MES B U R N ET T .

E 104 TH E GEOLOGY O NELSON .

nd a e those hills . A it is fact that the first gold in this Provinc was discovered in a stream which cuts through this diluvium .

V of I refer to the Motueka diggings , in Pig alley , at the foot

ui the western ranges . I have heard that q te recently these B in diggings had been resumed with some success . earing mind the source from which the gold is derived , I think it likely that the nearer to the western ranges the richer w ill be the diluvium but it is at the same time doubtful if it is rich

O f . enough , for any extent , to be much consequence I have had many questions put to me with regard to the

O f r origin and character the Nelson B ou lde bank. I have not time to give su ch an explanation O f it as I should wish to ul O f present to you . The bo ders which it consists are entirely s on f syenite , and the ame rock is found the precipitous blu f

the s a D r u mdu an The which abuts upon e beyond . source is — thus explained z Fragments are constantly falling from the ff cli s , and the action of the heavy northerly swell, combined

w . ith a strong current , takes them towards the south The n reason of their bei g deposited on the existing line is , that in O f all probability a submarine reef underlies them , which the

Arrow Rock , in the entrance of the Nelson Harbour , may be regarded as the southern termination . This supposition is Strengthened by the fact Of the Arrow Rock being of the same altered schists as occur immediately to the south O f the syenite . n Before co cluding , I wish to make a few remarks upon ni F n Volca c ormations in the Province , and upo some general matters .

Volca ic F r ma ti ns n o o .

Although there are no signs O f a volcanic action still going on in the Middle Island , as far as regards active volcanoes , s f olfataras , and umaroles, like those in the Northern Island , we have at the same time plenty O f proof that volcanic action has not been less powerful in the Middle Island than in the

Northern . I have not had an Opportunity of visiting the volcanic di hi n stricts Of t s isla d ; but still, feeling that I should make s to ome remarks upon this subject , I will endeavour explain a the opinion I h ve formed from Specimens and communications . T H E G G O F N LS N EOLO Y E O . 105

Kaikor as It is well known that the high peaks of the , covered

. s with perpetual snow , are of volcanic origin My friend Haa t describes the aspect O f the three gigantic cones visible from the A w ater e valley as most magnificent three Mount

E monts one T a u aenu ku g , one behind the other ; the first , p M O di (or ount n) , feet high , a closed and rounded dome

similar in shape to a cupola ; the second one, further to the

- south , a truncated bifurcated cone , the bifurcation undoubtedly F the indication of a crater on the summit . rom that peculiar “ form it has acquired the common name O f the Nest Moun

tain and the third gigantic peak , pyramidical in form like E Mount gmont . Almost equal in height to those landward Kaikor as is the lofty range which rises on the seaward side of

the Clarence River , the principal points of which have been

' named Moun t Thor and Mount F reya . Around these just

mentioned Scandinavian monarchs of the mass , are ranged

several smaller volcanic mountains , which I hope may have a r ight to maintain their Maori names . It is not at all surprising that accounts have been received

- of newly discovered hot springs in this volcanic region , in the i ikor s Hanmer Plain s fl at the foot of the Ka a .

Specimens forwarded to me by gentlemen , some from the

Kaikoras ul m A water e , and some bo ders fro the , prove that the

principal rOcks in this district are basaltic and trachytic lavas . F ollowin g the southerly dir ection indicated by the relative ’ we B position of the two Kaikora groups , come next to anks n Peninsula , undoubtedly an extinct volcanic system , risi g like

an island out from the sea and level plains .

A e T o - e I m et me en emen ne a e t this hous ( p hous ) , so g tl , wly rriv d, O ne had made the r ne f m and stopped on their roa d by the river. jou y ro Po C e and he a e m e a n a un of i n i c he had rt oop r, g v cco t hot spr gs wh h n he Hanme P a n n e the e e r of a an e of now discovered o t r l i s , u d r sh lt r g s o him a ema ka e foo and u n s H e O er ved a eem ed t ; , hill . bs wh t s r r bl po ea n his ack e amine he d o e ed m e e ch e e ed l vi g tr to x , isc v r so hol s , whi w r fill - hn os t 01 i n . with water O f a temperature varying from milk warm to a b l g m con ained the e n a nd a o he T he la rgest of the t hott st spri g, lth ugh the o e he o d o u e he w as attempted to sound the depth with all r p c ul pr c r , o om The cu mf e en e of the a e w as a unable to find the b tt . cir r c l rg st bout d Th is I el e e the n n ance of hot n or ci htee u a . fiftee y r s is , b i v , o ly i st ed m i cover ed in the M dd e I and and i f o o o a , a spri ngs yet s i l sl , , c rr b r t y di end to o ome i on the an connec on e een i i t thr w s l ght volc ic ti b tw” th s str ct h e n Is an A Wa k f m the Wa a f om the N elson and t e N orth r l d . l ro ir u, r r Ma 25 59 x mine 18 . E a , y , 106 TH E GE L GY O F NELS N O O O .

I n a n the s me li e , farther south , lies a third group of volcanic h ni O ills , forming the pe nsula of tago . These three points doubtless indicate a line of volcanic a ction , running parallel to the great middle range or backbone of the Middle Island , on the eastern side of it . A closer O examination , especially of the tago Province , would no doubt furnish us with more and similar examples O f volcanic hills on — . z of that line It is remarkable, that whilst the parallel ones volcanic action on the Northern Island (the Tongariro zone , the Auckland and the B ay of Islands zone) all run on the western side of the backbone range between and the East Cape— the great volcanic line of the Middle Island takes the eastern side . Many peculiarities in the physical features of the Middle

Island , and also many interesting facts respecting the earth in can ff quakes New Zealand , be explained by the di erent O f O f position the line volcanic action in the two islands . n Reservi g , however, for my future publications this interest ing subject, which I regret I have not time to enter upon , I f few will , in conclusion , O fer a

N RA GE E L REMARKS .

I the li O f a n ear er geological era New Zeal nd , we may one assume that both islands were connected , and that back E bone ran continuously from the South Cape to the ast Cape . In the present map of New Zealand the in tegrity of this back ’ at n bone is broken Cook s Straits , and a closer i spection will show that there has been not only a simple break of continuity, ’ ’ but a lateral dislocation . Cook s Straits is , to use a miner s is expression , a true . It evident , from the rocks b eing f a f o the same geologic l ormation , that at one p eriod the

Pelorus ranges were a continuation of the Wellington ranges . The position of the strata in the eastern ranges of Nelson proves , that whilst the Northern Island seems to have remained n for ce stationary , some giga tic has pressed the great mass of

of the Middle Island to the westward . The given description far the tertiary formation , extending between the ranges up ’ l and 011 the va leys , sounds , bays leading towards Cook s Straits

a O f both sides , farther proves th t the first act this great

on lsi O f c uv on nature took place prior to the tertiary period ,

108 P N T N or TH E AP EX LA A IO M .

. ll n 1855 an r tions The rise of land at We i gton , in , to ave age

O f height of three or four feet , over a great extent coast , is

r . of not familia to every colonist This rise land , however , is general over New Zealand for there are many proofs that , while on the eastern side of the islands the level of the land is on n A n being raised, the wester side the land is sinking . axis of equilibrium passes through the islands , on the western side on t of which the movement is downward , the eas ern side upwards . The same axis , curving round parallel to the

Australian coastline , crosses the Pacific between New Cale L can the donia and the oyalty group , and be traced through

Solomon Islands to New Guinea .

L DI AN D N T N - I t nl for A ES GE LEME , now o y remains me to express my thanks to you for the attention with which you have followed my geological explanations . Much more still m u . remains that I wo ld wish to say , but I ust now conclude I feel well assured that the mineral wealth of Nelson is not d n e confined to what I have to ay me tioned , but believ that , in O addition to gold, opper , and coal , future times will develop other valuable substances among your mountains and forests , which cannot fail to prove a so urce O f wealth and prosperity to the Province of Nelson .

L F TH E O F EL EXP ANA TION O MAP N SON .

F H ST ET T E . BY . . CH R D R. v O

MAP VI .

P V N C O F N N I N T H E T ERN AN D O F TH E RO I E ELSO , SOU H ISL D N EW Z EA LA N .

’ A FT ER a sojourn of seven months duration on the Northern

Island of New Zealand , I availed myself of the kind invitation of of the Superintendent to visit the Province Nelson , and 1 859 devoted the months of August and September , , to a geological survey of that Province . On the Southern Island

o I trod n a new and , compared with the Northern Island , ff an entirely di erent geological field , most remarkable on

mine1 al account of the multiferous treasures , such as copper , u gold , and coal , which have proc red to the Province of Nelson 109 EXPLAN ATION or r u n MAP . the renown of being the principal mineral country of New

Zealand . The fine and temperate climate of N elson enabled m dl w e , even in the mid e of inter , to pass and to explore the ’ mountain chain which terminates near Cook s Straits . Into Al the higher and more distant regions of the Southern ps , F . however , it was not po ssible to penetrate rom the Rotoiti L L of ake ( ake Arthur) , the most southern part which I visited , f o i I saw the mighty summits o the southern m unta n chains , covered with snow and ice , and which my friend and fellow s o traveller Dr . Haast has since successfully explored , with a most courageous perseverance , and under a great many “ difficulties and privations fi In the annexed map the results of his and my own observations are combined in a compr ehen sive delineation which explains the character of the geological structure of the northern part of the South Island . F rom a centre which forms the division of the water- courses between the east and west coast , and which is the source of the two frontier rivers ofthe Provinces of Nelson and Canter

fiowin- bury , the Hurunui g east , and the Taramakau which runs to the west , there extend the two great mountain chains of the Southern Alps in a northerly direction through the ’ of n Province Nelson , termi ating at Cook s Straits , where they give rise to the complicated coast -line which is s o characteristic

of of the north extremity the Middle Island . B f r oth of these mountain ranges di fe in character . The western mountains , which end in Separation Point and Cape

F . arewell , have a direction from north to south To them B L M belong the runner chain , yell chain , arine chain, Mount O n wen , the Tasman mountains , and Mount Arthur chai s ; while to the north and fronting Golden Bay ar e the W haka

H au ir i A n a toki marama chain , p and the chains . All these mountains and chains consist O f crystalline and metamorphic

of - - rocks , granite, gneiss , mica schist , hornblende schist ,

quarzite , and clay slate . It is to these rocks , which are

1n debted - fields auriferous , that Nelson is for her gold , which

- fields of d were the first gold New Zealan that were worked , and which even in 1859 yielded gold to the amount of

5“ ’

H aas s e f. J. t R port o a Topographical and G eological Exploration of the W es e n D i s ic of he P o n f on on t ce o N e . N e 1861. t r tr ts r vi ls ls , 10 XP A N A TI N O F TH E P 1 E L O MA .

n a - sterli g . The n ture of the gold fields of the Aorere and Takaka valley convinced me that by a well - managed and of regulated plan of working , and with a larger amount ffi capital , su cient profits would be realised, and that the development O f these gold - fields was only the commencement of gold discoveries which would ultimately extend throughout the whole mountain chain of the South I sland ; and that

discoveries would be made which , though perhaps not equal to

- fields the gold of California and Australia , will nevertheless t class New Zealand amongst the gold lands of the ear thfi

The summits of these mountain chains , such as the pic

tu r es u e A O q Mount rthur , Mount wen , and others , which are s ea from to feet above the level of the , when covered di wi . th snow , are visible at a great stance When arriving in

B Ba of lind y, they give to the landscape of the Province of Nelson its peculiar charm . In the north the Province are

large plains , bordering important rivers , which intersect the O B e mountain chains . f these plains those by the ull r River of are the most remarkable , where there is abundance land

‘ u fitted for agriculture , and rich natural pasture s itable for

- the sheep runs . The western and south western parts of n Province of Nelson are o ly now Opened for settlement, and it di t may be surmised that in the next few years , these s ricts of will become most important , on account of their treasures

'

. B l coal , near the mouth of the principal rivers , viz , the ul er

r (Kawatiri) and the Grey (M awhe a) .

The eastern mountain chain , running in a direction from

- n - a south west to orth east , consists of stratified sediment ry old t formations , comprising grauwacke sands one , red, green ,

and grey clay slates , and isolated patches of laminated calca

r eou s . n strata These strata , highly incli ed, and trending in

- ni the same direction , are friction breccias , accompa ed by great

p o masses of eru tive rocks , which have altered the contigu us

strata . These eruptive rocks occur in a straight belt which ’ ’ extends from Stephens and E U r ville Island in Cook s Straits to dis the Cannibal Gorge in the south of the Province , over a 150 tance of miles . Throughout this line the lithological

It will be remembered that the very rich gold ~fields of the Province of O ta in 1 1 go were discovered 86 .

112 EXPLA N AT IO N O F T H E MAP .

O f s a altitude feet above the e . Here are situated the picturesque mountain lakes Rotoiti and Rotoroa , at the points where the two ranges coalesce to form the Spencer Mountain ,

- by which they are continued in a south westerly direction .

Near Nelson , the commencement of the highland is known as

by Moutere Hill , where it is intersected innumerable ravines , This highland is composed of irregular layers of grit san d and w a yello clay , resting on a tertiary formation cont ining brown the coal , and filling up contracting valley between the two

. an d mountain systems These strata are of quaternary age , being part of the generally diffused drift formation which fills up

t the the principal valleys , and covers the flats amongs moun ff t tains , a ord evidence that only in the mos recent geologic age

s they were c overed by the ea . There is no doubt that the admirable climate of the shores of Blind B ay is due to the m above described configuration . Even when there is a stor ’ is Bl Ba in Cook s Straits, it calm and still in ind y, being shel ter ed from the break Of the sea by Separation Point and Cape ’ D U rville , While the strong southerly winds are broken by the i mounta n ranges which converge in that direction . Ships find in Blind Bay shelter from the dreaded storms that rage in ’ Cook s Straits . The town of Nelson , situated at the south

B a eastern border of the y, and at the base of the eastern O f mountain , enjoys , unlike the other ports New Zealand , an

of n w agreeable absence wind , and which , combi ed ith a clear and rarely clouded sky , renders its climate the most agreeable and beautiful in New Zealand . W ith justice it may be called

The G arden of New Zealand .

of 1 842 The town Nelson was established in , and was the second settlement formed by the New Zealand Com ’ I n of pany in Cook s Straits . spite the grievous trials with

has which this young colony has had to contend , it steadily

1843 of gained ground . Thus , in it lost a great number its best men in the bloody conflict with the natives when B au par aha and Rangihaeata opposed the colonisation of the f W . o un airau However , through the exploration the co try , resulting in the discovery Of coal , copper, chrome , graphite ,

n - and gold , Nelson has become the principal mi eral producing

Province of New Zealand . Its population at this date amounts

O f to inhabitants , whom reside in the town and N T N F T H P 13 EXPLA A IO O E MA . 1

n f its . o m n vicinity The tow lies at the foot the ountai , being built upon an alluvial delta formed by the confluence of two t B s reams , named the Matai and the rook Street Creek , extend ing also up their valleys and along the hill slopes that face the harbour . An excellent road leads from Nelson to the south through the luxuriant fields and meado ws which bedeck the

of W aiiti O agricultural districts the aimea and W plains . n t these fruitful alluvial flats are to be seen farm af er farm , while 1 6 1 l . 8 many vi lages are rapidly springing into existence Since ,

Nelson has possessed a railway , being the first constructed in

N ew l . D u n C Zea and It is the work of the Mountain ompany , for the purpose of developing the chrome mines , and leads from the B a harbour through the town and up the rook Street v lley . The existence of the harbour of Nelson is due to a most singu lar boulder bank which extends along the coast for eight miles , forming a natural dam , behind which there extends a

w of s ea narrow and shallo arm the , which deepens towards the

B B av south , where it communicates with lind and forms a small but safe harbour;

’ CR EI G H T N A N D SC L ES P RI N T E RS C N N E L L -ST REET A U CKL A N D O A , , O O , .

MAR14; 1988

RETU RN EA RTH SCI EN CES LI BRA RY

TO 64 2 - 2997

A LL BO O KS MA Y BE RECA LLED A FTER7 DA YS

Boo ks ne e de d fo r cla ss re se rve a re s ubje ct to imme dia te re ca ll D U E A S S TA MPED BEL O W

U N IVERS TY O F CA L FO RN A BERKELEY I I I , FO RM N D D 8 BERKELEY CA 947 20 O . ,