Trip 1: the Inner Hebrides

TRIP 1: THE INNER HEBRIDES

This trip was planned to take in all the islands of the Inner Hebrides I had not visited on previous walking holidays, which explains why Skye, Mull, Iona and Colonsay do not feature. Jura is not included because, despite three attractive walks, I did not find a spot inspiring enough to write about. I’m sure there are many such spots on Jura – I just did not reach them. My itinerary was arranged thanks to the ferry services of Caledonian Macbrayne operating out of Oban and Mallaig and bus connections on Mull (to reach Ardnamurchan), Islay and Jura. The visit was over four weeks in August and September 2012.

This trail has a special resonance for me because I was reading an eye-opening book called ‘Night Falls on Ardnamurchan’ (2) about the reality of crofting life at Sanna in the mid-20th century. I recommend staying at the Sonachan Hotel, both for its convenience and for its stunning location (try to book a north-west facing room so that you can see the sunset in summer). Take the road towards Achosnich and, after about a kilometre, there’s a small sign on the right indicating ‘The Old Schoolhouse Path’, which sounds enticing. It also heads in roughly the right direction for Sanna Bay so I thought it was worth a shot. Follow the track up to what looks like the old schoolhouse and then find your way over the shoulder of the heather-clad hills towards the coast. There is a path of sorts but it’s not much more than a sheep-track these days. I imagine it was once the path taken by the schoolchildren on their way over from Sanna. It’s a delightful scramble through the heather with the prospect of the sea to come.

You eventually emerge onto the coast path from Portuairk to Sanna, from where there’s a magnificent view that is featured on postcards and calendars, looking out over the northern part of Sanna Bay towards the Small Isles (Photo 1547). However, by exploring the promontories you can hit a spot where you can see both the view just described and the view south-west towards Portuairk over the southern part of Sanna Bay:

Photo 1547: looking over Sanna Bay to Eigg (copyright: Michael Macgregor, www.michael- macgregor.co.uk)

North-West – over the islets at the north of Sanna Bay, Canna, Muck and Rum fill the horizon, Canna fairly flat with steep cliffs at either end, Muck an inconspicuous pimple in front of the jagged peaks of Rum North – over Sanna Point and the northern inlets of Sanna Bay, the Black Cuillins of Skye peep out between Rum and Eigg; the view of Eigg is dominated by a sideways perspective of An Sgurr, the caterpillar-like ridge that runs along the south side of the island North-East – the coast of Sleat, the eastern part of Skye, can just be seen before the hills behind Sanna intervene; in the foreground, the village of Sanna East and South-East – Meall Sanna, the hill behind Sanna Bay South – the green valley running from Achosnich down to Portuairk South-West – over the southern inlets of Sanna Bay, the village of Portuairk, nestled under the slopes of Sgurr nam Meann; over the Portuairk promontory, the northern tip of Coll West – the Sea of the Hebrides, with Mingulay, Barra and South Uist visible on a clear day

The spot I found was made the more dramatic by steep drops both to the north and to the south-west. I would recommend walking round Sanna Bay as far as you have the time and energy for. There is an abandoned village, Plocaig, beyond Sanna itself, which makes for an atmospheric stroll, especially if you have read ‘Night Falls on Ardnamurchan’. You could also clamber out onto the spits of rock that jut out into the bay. Then you can return over the coast path to Portuairk, a pretty location in its own right. From here, it’s a 3k slog back to the Sonachan, starting with a very steep hill. Sorry about that – I was fortunate enough to be offered a lift by someone I met on the path from Sanna. 2: Bay McNeil, Ardnamurchan

The second choice trail from the Sonachan Hotel is to the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point (‘Britain’s most westerly mainland point’, a tag for tourists that leaves me distinctly unimpressed). The walk past Achosnich and over the pass into Grigadale is a great appetizer, as is the flat hike through Grigadale past the loch and the farm. I particularly liked the verdant view past the farm into the hills on the right. Ardnamurchan Point is O.K. but, on the day after I had visited Sanna, it came a poor second: there is a similar view over to the Small Isles but without the stunning beach in the foreground (Photo 1548). There are additional views over to Coll, Tiree, the Treshnish Isles and Mull; and you can visit the lighthouse exhibition, if you are interested in that kind of thing. I preferred the tea-room (I admit there was an attractive and chatty young woman serving). However, I did walk round the lighthouse enclosure and spotted a bay over towards Portuairk that my lift-giver had mentioned the day before, by the name of Bay McNeil. On the way back, just past a beautifully-situated bungalow on the left with a garden drifting down towards the shore and turning into wilder vegetation as it goes, you come across the

Photo 1548: looking past Ardnamurchan Point to Rum (copyright: Michael Macgregor, www.michael-macgregor.co.uk) entrance to a caravan park, with easy access round the side of the gate. There’s no ‘Keep Out’ sign so take the track past several caravans, being careful not to disturb owners in residence. It’s a delightful stroll through dunes and long grass, as more and more of the bay reveals itself. Past the caravans, there’s a wonderful stretch of unspoilt beach with cliffs and rocks coming down near to the shore; and beyond that, a truly magnificent expanse of sand with the dunes of Eilean Carrach to the north, leading towards the point. Cross this expanse of sand to its northern corner and climb the dunes over to a spot where it’s possible to see round the point to the Small Isles – from here, this tremendous all round view really does hit the spot: South – the foreshore of the bay with caravans and dunes behind South-West – over Bay McNeil to the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point, just visible round the corner of its promontory; beyond the Point, Coll is clearly seen, while Tiree is rather faint in the distance West, North-West and North – as from Sanna (see spot 1) but from ground level with an immediate foreground of rocks, pools and dunes and with waves murmuring a little further out North-East – the tip of the Portuairk promontory East – the cliffs of the Portuairk promontory

This is a far lovelier spot to visit than Ardnamurchan Point, if you are looking for beauty rather than the dubious distinction of standing on Britain’s most westerly mainland point. It’s got everything you would want for sitting by the seashore: peace, solitude, different kinds of views all around, and the essential rocks, sand, pools and waves. It was here that I decided to start this website, so entranced was I by this precise spot that I wanted to share it. So don’t blame it on the sunshine, don’t blame it on the moonlight, blame it on McNeil. Retrace your steps to the beginnings of the caravan park and then look for a path leading off to the left in the direction of Grigadale. This takes you over heathery ground back to the road taken earlier, avoiding most of the caravans, so I guess this is the ‘official’ way to Bay McNeil – the trouble is I really enjoyed my stroll through the caravan park. After such an uplifting experience, the walk back through Grigadale and Achosnich seemed even more beautiful than it had done earlier. I understand from my lift-giver, who has a house in Portuairk, that you can reach Bay McNeil through the hills behind Portuairk: I can tell from the map that this would be another memorable trail, almost certainly affording good views over Ardnamurchan Point to Coll, Tiree, the Treshnish Isles and Mull, as well as over the bay itself.

3: Cnoc Mor, Sorisdale, Coll

Coll is a delightful island which knocks spots off the more popular Tiree, in my opinion. The people are more friendly and the scenery is better. No buses, however, so I hired a rather dodgy bike and took off for the north end of the island, hoping for some more seaside magic. Despite battling with ‘Windy Gap’ and drizzle turning to rain, the slog was worth it. I had my eye on a walk round the coast to the northern tip and back inland over Cnoc Mor, which means ‘big hill’, I’m told. From the village of Sorisdale, head north along the coast past two bays, North Bay and another smaller bay over the promontory to the north, where you can turn inland to the south towards Cnoc Mor (called Druim nan Carn on the O.S. map). At first, you have to pick your way through boggy patches, compensated for by wild flowers and vivid green mosses. Then the ascent becomes more of a rocky scramble until you reach the western top of Cnoc Mor. Look for a spot where you can see north-east over North Bay to a group of islands that includes the Suil Ghorm light:

North and North-East – in the foreground a horseshoe of rocks (you are sitting at the apex) contains a green sward sloping away towards North Bay, over which Eilean Mor, Eag na Maoile, Suil Ghorm and many other islets are arranged attractively; in the distance, the Small Isles of Canna, Rum, Muck and Eigg can be made out, with Muck dwarfed by Eigg behind it

East – the ridge of Cnoc Mor with dunes between its eastern slopes and the shore; over the water, Ardnamurchan South-East – the north coast of Mull from Ardmore Point to Treshnish Point South – the village of Sorisdale with the east coast of Coll beyond and the Treshnish Isles in the distance South-West – the humps and bumps of inland Coll West – more humps and bumps and the Sea of the Hebrides North-West – a higher hill obscures a possible view of the Western Isles

Photo 1726: Sorisdale, looking towards the Small Isles (illustration by Mairi Hedderwick from her Hebridean Desk Diary 2013, copyright: Mairi Hedderwick, www.birlinn.co.uk) Coming down from the eastern side of Cnoc Mor, you can take a path inland which comes out at the back of the village. Returning from Sorisdale, you may like to stop off at the deserted village of Bousd, which is on the left after about 2k, by a post-box. It is now being repopulated but still retains a special atmosphere, particularly if you go further up the two tracks past the present houses. My host in Arinagour told me that there is another great spot at the other end of Coll that has the same magical quality for her (she agreed with me about Cnoc Mor). This is Calgary Point in the far south-west corner, opposite the island of Gunna. That was a bike ride too far for me but I did enjoy three areas in the south-west: Port-na-Luing, the top of Ben Feall and the machair between Crossapol Bay and Ben Feall.

4: Ceann-a-Mhara, Tiree

Another bike hire on Tiree, but a better bike so I was able to reach the far corners of the island with time and energy enough to explore. All the corners were worth visiting but the high point literally and figuratively was definitely the promontory of Ceann-a-Mhara in the south–west corner. Starting from the car park between Balephuil and Loch-a-Phuill, walk north alongside the loch and out towards Traigh nan Gilean on the west coast. I don’t recommend the route I took because it involved negotiating several taut barbed-wire fences. However, I do recommend the walk along the beach towards Beinn Ceann-a-Mhara as an appetizer before the main course. So perhaps it is worth walking to the road north of Loch-a-Phuill at Barrapol and then cutting across on a track to the west coast near Port Barrapol. The alternative would be to head straight for the northern end of the Beinn from the car park but then you’d miss out on Traigh nan Gilean.

Photo 1841: Dotted line shows the alternative to crossing barbed-wire fences (Crown copyright 2015, Ordnance Survey FL-GV 166842) Like most of the beaches on Tiree, Traigh nan Gilean is long and lovely, especially with the prospect of Beinn Ceann-a-Mhara ahead. At the end of the beach, cut across inland to the shoulder at the northern end of the Beinn, where you turn right and follow a fence upwards. Just before the fence turns right up a gully, you come across a grassy hollow with rocks on one side, forming a barrier to the south, and a small area of grass and flowers to the north. It certainly hit the spot with me. The whole thing reminded me of a Christian chapel: there’s a pointed stone where the cross would be, while the other rocks form a kind of altar. The lush carpet of grass and flowers is perfect for sitting or lying on. Now I have a theory about places like this. I have come across them before – in Pembrokeshire and on the Isles of Scilly, for instance. I think they may well have been sacred places in pre-Christian times, where people would come for spiritual nourishment, including perhaps making love, which can sometimes be a spiritual experience too. Then, my theory goes, the idea, and sometimes the place itself, was taken over by the Christians and converted into what we know as ‘chapels’ and ‘churches’. It is known that Christian places of worship are often on sites that were used in pre-Christian times. Anyway, I wonder what you will make of this magical, even sacred, spot. Is it just my imagination and pagan sympathies distorting my vision? Is it a natural ‘chapel’ or just a place to rest on the way up Beinn Ceann-a-Mhara? The spot is sheltered from the prevailing south- westerly wind by the ‘altar’ and the bulk of the Beinn. There are widespread views over most of Tiree:

South – the eastern slopes of Ceann-a-Mhara, forming the rocky western shore of Balephuil Bay South-East – Balephuil Bay with its wide expanse of sand curving eastwards to Ben Hynish, a somewhat higher hill than Beinn Ceann-a-Mhara but less attractive with its golf-ball radar station on top; along the eastern shore of Balephuil Bay a road runs from Balephuil past the houses of West Hynish; in the distance, Islay can be seen East – a flat plain extends to Balemartine on the east coast of Tiree, with the Treshnish Isles and the vague outline of Mull in the distance North-East – over Loch-a-Phuill the whole of Tiree is laid out before you with its many sandy bays and beaches clear to see; further still, Coll retreats into the horizon North to South-West – the view is obscured by Beinn Ceann-a-Mhara but can be seen from the top, five minutes away up the gully; from here, you can see the west coast of Tiree, including Ben Hough, another hill worth climbing, and the Atlantic Ocean filling up the west

The view from the top also includes a vista of the rest of the Ceann-a-Mhara promontory, with a rocky valley between you and the southern top almost a kilometre away. I don’t think you could leave here without going down into the valley and up the other side and then round the cliffs to the south. On the way, there’s another lovely spot down in the valley: a heather and rock tussock from where you can look down the valley and along the west coast with a little stream in the foreground – a great place for a snack without the wind blowing your sandwich into the sheep dung. The path round the headland is spectacular and is supposed to pass a Christian temple which, not surprisingly perhaps, was hidden from my view. The descent into Balephuil Bay and the walk along the beach completes a memorable outing.

5: Saligo Bay, Islay

There is a problem with this trail, if you don’t have transport (even a bike would help). The trail I’m suggesting is from Saligo to Sanaigmore but both places are at least 11k from the nearest public transport and accommodation (Bruichladdich and Anchorage b&b respectively). The trail itself is at least 8k – more with necessary twists and turns, not to mention ups and downs – so that makes a 30k round trip, which is beyond my range, anyway. I solved the problem by hitching three lifts but you can’t really count on such luck as there was very little other traffic. I had bought a postcard of Saligo Bay on a previous visit to Islay, breaking my rule of only buying postcards of places I’ve actually been to. The view on the card was so beautiful I wanted to come back and visit it for myself. It did not disappoint, with what I consider the best walk on Islay thrown in for good measure (Photo 1499). The postcard had a view of the bay looking north towards a strikingly-shaped pointed rock, with pink sea-thrift and grass in the foreground, and with rocks and breaking waves in the middle distance. I wanted to find the precise spot from where the photo was taken. I didn’t have the card with me, which would have helped, but I did my best, spending at least half an hour in a fruitless search. What I did find, though, was an even better spot…. As you enter Saligo village from the south, by the first building, go through a gate labelled ‘To Three Arches’ and then cross a fence. Make your way south-west along the rocky foreshore to hit a spot where you are looking north along the line of breaking waves, preferably with a few pinks and nice rocks in the foreground:

Photo 1499: the view on the postcard (photo: Allan Wright, copyright: Cauldron Press Ltd)

North – the triple-pointed rock stands out on the sky-line over 3k of breaking waves; the rocky shore, with its inlets, extends all the way to Rubha Lamanais, creating spray to enliven the scene East – inland towards Loch Gorm, not visible a couple of kilometres away South – the gentle slopes of Cnoc Mor South-West – more rocky shore – presumably the ‘Three Arches’ are somewhere along there West and North-West – the Atlantic Ocean For some reason I don’t understand, this view across Saligo Bay is one of the most memorable of my life, even though I don’t usually go for flat terrain. Naturally, I wanted to ‘walk into the view’ and take a look at the strange pointed rock. The walk along the foreshore of the bay is lovely, despite a warning sign half-way along saying something like “BULL IN FIELD – please use farm track 200m inland – young animals should not be disturbed”. I ignored this as there were no bulls or young animals to be seen. I’m glad I did because there’s a seat on a rock at the far end of the field overlooking Port Ban, where you can take in the full sweep of the bay in both directions. Then head for a gap in the rocks on the shallow promontory of Rubha Lamanais.

First, a bit about this pointed rock (I hope this is interesting enough to justify breaking my ‘no history’ rule from the introduction). My host at the Anchorage b&b objected when I referred to it as the ‘Opera House Rock’, a name I had picked up from a book of local walks. She felt it should be known by its Gaelic name ‘Dun nan Nigbean’, which means ‘Hill-fort of the Maidens’ and stems from a time when the Vikings were raiding and the maidens used to hide in a hollow on the top. On one occasion, they were spotted by the Vikings, who approached with the intention of raping them and carrying them off. Rather than submit to this, the maidens jumped off the Dun to their deaths. I can see the merit of preserving the name but I think my host has got the wrong rock, as the map indicates that Dun Bheolain is in the right place to be the ‘Opera House Rock, whereas ‘Dun nan Nigbean’ is a little further to the north. Whichever is the truth, the fact remains that the pointed rock does bear a remarkable resemblance to the Sydney Opera House and that once you’ve heard the nick-name, you can’t get it out of your head. Once past Rubha Lamanais, you are confronted by the vast bulk of Dun Bheolain and can look for the best vantage point to get the full effect. Try wending your way round to the left to hit a spot on the cliffs where you can look across the bay of Fang Poll a’Chapuill (what a great name) to the Dun:

North and North-East – across the breaking waves of Fang Poll a’Chapuill, the three peaks of Dun Bheolain rise up imperiously, more severe than the Sydney Opera House, yet still beautiful; in the foreground, a striking formation of wavelets in a rock-face East – rocks and more rocks South – small cliffs sheltering you from the southerly wind South-West – the rocky shore out towards Rubha Lamanais West and North-West – the Atlantic Ocean

I had half expected Dun Bheolain to be a disappointment up close but it was even more magnificent than from a distance. The rest of the walk is much harder since the paths are not always clear. First, you have to go round the escarpment behind Dun nan Nigbean, then over Sliabh Bhrothain, before descending into Traigh Bhan. This beach provides a welcome, calm interlude. On your way again, look back from the hillside beyond the burn towards the rocks of Eilean Mor – don’t they look uncannily like an eagle in flight? If you climb Cnoc Uamh nan Fear, good luck in finding a path and the ‘Settlement’ marked on the map – I found neither. A path appears near the ‘Fort’, which makes the rest of the walk to Sanaigmore a pleasure. I hope you arrive before the tea-room closes. I just missed it but did manage a lift from the last car to leave the carpark.

7: Beinn Airein, Muck

Muck is not at all mucky. It is a glorious gem, worthy to rank alongside its better- known neighbours, Rum and Eigg. The only trouble is getting on and off it. I was told by my hosts that Cal-Mac didn’t sail to Muck on 40 out of the scheduled 200 days last year (2011), because the weather made docking at the pier awkward. In the event, I had to leave a day early because Cal-Mac cancelled their Saturday sailing due to forecast rough seas. Still, it is worth it: the island has a charm and beauty all its own, especially at the western end.

Take the road from Port Mor to Gallanach, a gentle stroll over to and along the north coast, and head straight for Beinn Airein through the fields of the farm. There are two obvious ways up from Gallanach: up a cleft in the middle of the ridge or round by the cliffs to the east of the summit. I chose the latter for the prospect of the view over Camas Mor and because the slopes seemed more easy and inviting. The view over the cliffs was indeed dramatic and it was an easy scramble to the top. Once there, make for the trig point (as you do), only to discover that it is not quite the best spot from which to admire the remarkable panorama that presents itself. Rather, move to the north-east to hit a spot that overlooks Camas Mor, Gallanach, the island of Eilean nan Each and part of the western end of Muck:

North-West – looking across the lower part of Gleann Mhairtein, you can peer down the rugged south-western coast of Rum to the western end of Canna; the horseshoe of mountains at the southern end of Rum stands out clearly over Eilean nan Each North – the Black Cuillins of Skye appear between Rum and Eigg, with the Red Cuillins visible, too North-East – over Gallanach Farm, Eigg fills the view only 4k away, with An Sgurr’s humps and bumps now seen in much greater detail than from Ardnamurchan North-East to East – in the foreground, the eastern end of Muck rolls away for 3k; the village of Port Mor is hidden but Camas Mor is visible below; in the middle distance, Mallaig, the sands of Morar, Arisaig, the Sound of Arisaig and Moidart are all visible on the shoreline of the mainland; behind them, the mountains of Knoydart and Sunart are displayed in a continuous arc; the distinctive shapes of Sgurr na Ciche (53k) and Ben Nevis (74k) stand out South-East – the northern coast of Ardnamurchan, with the green area around Kilmory conspicuous South – Sanna Bay and Ardnamurchan Point, the lighthouse hard to discern against a backdrop of hills; beyond the Point, the north coast of Mull South-West – beyond Mull, the Treshnish Isles and Iona; apparently, on the clearest of days, you can see Islay (106k); a bit further to the west, Coll and Tiree appear behind the trig point pillar West – over the Sea of the Hebrides, Mingulay, Vatersay, Barra and South Uist float on the horizon 70k away

This is the most extensive view of the area you will find, except perhaps from the top of one of Rum’s mountains – it feels as if you are at the hub of a vast wheel of islands and mainland mountains.

8: Gleann Mhairtein, Muck

I suggest you come off Beinn Airein to the north (the western slopes are precipitous, although there is one gully that was too steep for me) and wind round left under the cliffs to the top of Gleann Mhairtein. The local guide-book told me that a hermit called Martin had lived here (hence the name), so I looked for ‘sacred spots’ where he might have prayed or contemplated. From the summit, I had spotted what seemed to be the remains of a cell surrounded by a semi-circular enclosure, so I made for that, but it didn’t have the silence I was looking for. Just to the south, though, there’s a good view over a rocky cove to Ardnamurchan in the distance. I wandered down the next valley away from the Beinn (which is actually Gleann Mhairtein) and enjoyed its idyllic, lush surroundings; about half-way down, just after an old well or spring on the right and just before a marshy area, is the spot I was looking for. There are a few standing stones on the right and a clear, grassy area in the middle of the glen. The silence is almost tangible and I imagined Martin strolling around in silent wonder. I hope you feel the same thing. At the bottom of the glen, you join the north coast and can work your way round the bays and over the promontories to the pretty cliff-top house to the west of Gallanach (I found out later that it’s let out to self-caterers – I would definitely want to stay there). On the way, you pass a fisherman’s hut with an old wedding invitation in the window. There’s a quirky post-script to my stay on Muck. Being interested in standing stones, I enquired about one on the hill above Port Mor which didn’t feature on my O.S. Landranger map, as they usually do. Apparently, when some builders were erecting a radio mast, one of them got a bit bored and decided to put up his very own standing stone. I liked the idea of some future archaeologist poring over the ritual significance of this ‘ancient monument’.

9: Tallabric, Canna

Canna is a canny island, as the Scots might say. It’s under the care of the National Trust for Scotland, who farm it as a nature reserve and discourage visitors by not having any b&b or hotel facilities. If you want to visit, you have to self-cater or eat at the one restaurant. I was lucky enough to have Tighard House (which used to be a b&b) to myself and brought my supplies from the Co-op in Mallaig. This is a fantastic place to stay, with lovely period rooms and great views over Canna Harbour and the island of Sanday. However, it’s a long hike to the western end of the island where I expected to find a spot or two. On the map, it’s a 15k round trip but, by the time you’ve zig-zagged around

Photo 1844: Map of Canna showing my walks (Crown copyright 2015, Ordnance Survey FL- GV 166842) coves and bogs, it’s a lot further and tiring walking, at that (no paths beyond Tarbert that I could find). I walked along the south coast road underneath the cliffs of Falaist and saw an otter crossing my path to its holt and a couple of eagles soaring from their eyrie on top of the cliffs. I searched in vain for the ‘Souterrain’ marked on the map, descended a hairy gully to the deserted village of Conagearaidh on the northern shore and picked my way along an unnerving sheep-path to Garrisdale Point, but nothing hit the spot for me. Coming down to Conagearaidh, I heard the weirdest, keening sound and thought there must be a banshee lying in wait for me. It turned out to be a seal, who perhaps was sick or had lost her pup. From just east of Garrisdale, I came up a steep break in the cliffs to the trig point on Sron Ruail where there was a view out to the Sea of the Hebrides. It wasn’t clear enough to see the Outer Hebrides but I could make out the lighthouse on Oigh-sgeir 8k to the south- west. I came back over the tops, thinking this would be easier than going round the southern coast with all its ups and downs but it was really hard going. The next day was a write-off due to persistent rain so I felt I had missed out on the best of Canna. This feeling was reinforced by reading the visitors’ books at Tighard, in which many of the entries implored visitors to keep quiet about the unique delights of Canna for fear of encouraging too many tourists, who might ruin it. A canny island indeed. For my last morning, I decided to walk round Sanday, rather than climb the hills behind Tighard, which seemed like more of the same tiring slog – a good choice for almost immediately I hit a wonderful spot. Cross the bridge to Sanday and turn right towards the south-west point. The flat-topped hillocks of Tallabric are inviting so climb up and look for a hillock to the north-east of the highest top, slightly away from the coast:

North to North-East – in the foreground, lush pasture and all the houses around Canna Harbour; beyond the northern side of the harbour, the tiered hills of eastern Canna rise up to Carn a’Ghaill; you can also glimpse the remains of the castle at An Coroghon, beyond which can be seen the southern part of Skye from the Cuillins to Sleat; this is an ‘essence of Canna’ view, contrasting the rough, layered edges of the cliffs and hills with the gentle undulations of Sanday and the shapely curves of the harbour East – the rest of Sanday, with its little hills and inlets extending 3k towards the north- west coast of Rum only about 8k away across the Sound of Canna; the cliffs of Rum present a forbidding countenance to their smaller neighbour (Photo 1722)

Photo 1722: cliffs of Rum from Canna, showing Tallabric (illustration by Mairi Hedderwick from her Hedridean Pocket Diary 2015, copyright Mairi Hedderwick, www.birlinn.co.uk) South-East – Muck and Ardnamurchan Point are just visible beyond the western tip of Rum South – Coll and the faintest outline of Tiree South-West – the open sea with the lighthouse of Oigh-sgeir prominent West and North-West – across the bay, the south coast of Canna, with its sheer cliffs and hills obscuring any possible view of the Western Isles

This really is the best spot from which to appreciate the remarkable beauty of Canna and, after my day holed up in Tighard House, I felt grateful to have found it. You can easily complete the circuit of Sanday in a few hours but I only had time to go as far as the isthmus north of Suileabhaig as I had a ferry to catch. My hunch is that there is another great spot out towards the lighthouse that would take in the east coast of Canna, the length of Sanday and the north-west coast of Rum.

10: By Mausoleum, Harris Bay, Rum

The island of Rum is a rum do. Unless you are wild camping or have your own boat, there’s only one place to stay, the palatial but dilapidated Kinloch Castle. It is owned reluctantly by Scottish Natural Heritage and is probably closed for repairs by now. Nobody wants to buy it because of the expensive upkeep. The islanders are interested in an Eigg-style community buy-out but can’t raise the money. There’s also talk of building a new place for visitors to stay. Be that as it may, as far as I am concerned, there’s only one long trail on Rum. The rest of the trails from Kinloch are either too boggy, too difficult or too boring for me whereas this one has everything – glens, waterfalls, cascading burns, a couple of lochs, views into the mountains, a magical bay and the possibility of seeing herds of virtually wild cattle, horses and deer. It’s a long hike (22k there and back) but made easier by being on a well-surfaced track. The start of the walk up Kinloch Glen is a bit tedious but improves as soon as you split from the Kilmory path after 3k. Then it’s a winding mountain track past wonderful scenery, first some waterfalls, then a valley on the right leading up to Fionchra and Orval (there’s supposed to be a path between these two peaks leading over to Bloodstone Hill but it’s more like a deer track and very hard going). After that, there’s Long Loch and Loch an Dornabac on your left, before the full splendour of Rum’s highest peaks comes into sight at the top of Glen Harris. They form two forbidding horseshoes which reveal themselves as you go over the shoulder of Ard Nev and start to descend. Also gradually revealing itself is Harris Bay, far down below you. Finally, the monstrous Bullough Mausoleum appears. On reaching the bay, the first thing is to check out the ‘bothy’, which turns out to be private property, all locked up when you are hoping for some shelter and a comfy seat. Then check out the mausoleum. I hated it, a grotesque monument to a sociopathic multi- millionaire, whose father built Kinloch Castle in the 19th century. This character, the son, used to send the castle laundry to Kilmory, 8k away, because his wife didn’t like the look of drying laundry around the castle grounds. By contrast, there is the hint of something more fitting as a mausoleum peeping out of the hillside to the west. This is the entrance to a burial place dug into the hillside but abandoned in favour of the fake Greek temple because a guest said it resembled a Victorian toilet.

Where is the true beauty of Harris Bay best experienced, then? Walk past the mausoleum onto a little promontory between a large cove with cliffs on one side and a smaller bay with rocks on the other, both with breaking waves creating quite a din. Turn around to face inland with the noise of the waves and the wind behind you:

North – the hillside of Gualann na Pairce containing the abandoned mausoleum North-East – the ‘Greek temple’ mausoleum peeking over a green sward, with the track from Kilmory behind, curving up the mountainside towards Ard Nev East – the full sweep of Harris Bay with Glen Harris behind, leading up to the horseshoe of mountains from Barkeval via Hallival and Askival to Trollabhal; majestic is the only appropriate word for this vista South-East – looking across Harris Bay and up Fiachanis Glen into the other horseshoe from Trollabhal via Ainshval and Sgurr nan Gillean to Ruinsival South – along the west coast of Rum towards Rubha Sgorr an t-Snidhe; with luck, you may be able to see Coll South-West – the Sea of the Hebrides West – Oigh-sgeir lighthouse pops up in the middle of the sea, with Mingulay, Vatersay, Barra and South Uist on the horizon North-West – the cliffs behind the large cove preclude any view along the coast of Rum towards Canna

The all-around effect is quite overwhelming and I even found myself warming to the mausoleum, which now seemed less offensive and incongruous.

Photo 1730: mausoleum, coast and mountains (illustration by Mairi Hedderwick from her Hebridean Pocket Diary 2015, copyright Mairi Hedderwick, www.birlinn.co.uk)

11: By Cairn, Harris Bay, Rum

When you’ve had your fill of that ‘blasted heath’, it’s time for something more restful. Walk south-east by the shore and then back up the stream to the bridge. Turn right where a track leads past an animal pen, down a slope and through the remains of an abandoned village. You pass a large enclosure that might have been used for animals or as a garden or a meeting place, finally reaching a bank of pebbles with a cairn in the middle. This spot perfectly complements the first one – a more peaceful feeling than when perched on the promontory, two aspects of Harris Bay’s stark beauty. Facing towards the sea this time, you have the whole expanse of the bay to your left and right, with the mausoleum visible over breaking waves and the mountains of Rum behind you:

North-West – back along the shore-line towards the mausoleum; the abandoned village hides behind the dunes; the hillside of Gualann na Pairce and the cliffs beyond the bay form a backdrop; old runrig cultivation is visible on the hillside North – relatively flat land behind the village gives way to the mountainside, up which the track ascends North-East – rising ground towards An Dornabac hill and the valley of Abhainn Sgathaig East and South-East – the same mountain horseshoe views as from the mausoleum but without the foreground of the bay – instead, there is a pretty waterfall to the east South – across the eastern side of the bay, part of the coast is still visible, with Coll in the distance South-West – the Sea of the Hebrides West – Oigh-sgeir lighthouse with Mingulay, Vatersay, Barra and South Uist on the horizon

On the way back through the village, I fantasised about what it would have been like to live here and imagined a village green on the right as you leave the ‘inhabited’ area and children sitting on the large rock opposite, welcoming visitors and people returning from the runrig fields on the hillside (a rose-tinted picture, probably). I was so full of Harris Bay that the long return journey didn’t seem too tiring. Before saying goodbye to Rum, I must just mention another walk, despite what I said earlier about there being only one trail on Rum. This is the Kilmory trail, 15k there and back, also along a track but with less attractive scenery and a lot of awkward potholes filled with water that are tricky to circumvent (Photo 1847 for map). The compensation is in reaching Kilmory, where BBC Autumwatch filmed the deer rut. You can even visit the hide from where some of the filming was done. I reached Kilmory in the rain and holed up in the woodshed beside the ranger’s cottage. When the rain abated, I toured the whole bay from west to east and walked past a huge herd of hinds and fawns presided over by one stag, with another less mature stag lurking more in hope than expectation. The rut and the BBC were due in a couple of weeks. I saw the outcome on the telly eight weeks later – the younger stag took over the herd but was himself wounded and ousted by another older stag. There’s also another abandoned village, just below the hide, but I didn’t find it as evocative as the one at Harris Bay.

12: Bealach Clithe, Eigg

Eigg has cracked a few eggs and made its omelette – it has completed a successful community buy-out of the previous owner and now appears at ease with itself (see Alastair McIntosh, Soil and Soul: People versus Corporate Power (3) for a detailed account of this process and the politics involved). More to the point, its landscape is uniquely impressive. There is the softly welcoming harbour area around Kildonan and Galmisdale, backed by the rough and forbidding escarpment of An Sgurr, rearing its head up like a curious caterpillar. On the other side of the island, you find the old crofting area around Cleadale, backed by the equally forbidding cliffs of Beinn Bhuidhe and the ambiguous rock formation known as ‘the Finger of God’: is it pointing serenely to the heavens or administering a stern warning to the mortals below? These two areas are joined by the island’s main road climbing up to and over the pass of Bealach Clithe. My host told me about his favourite walk up the cliffs behind his house, along the edge of the cliffs of Beinn Bhuidhe and down a zig-zag path at the northern end. Set off up the gully behind Lageorna restaurant, sticking to the not-so-obvious path. At the top, veer left of the barbed-wire fence along the cliff-top path. The view of the Finger of God is not quite as convincing as from below where the digit is outlined against the sky. The path is straightforward, apart from one awkward-to-cross stream. You can keep to the edge with its tremendous views down into Cleadale and across to Rum and the Sgurr; or you can walk along the ridge, affording extensive views to the east towards the mainland and Skye but sacrificing the views into Cleadale. In any case, all these views come together at the trig point at the northern end of the Beinn. Leaving the trig point to the north, I got rather lost. From the map and my explorations, I realised that the only way down was through a gate in a fence and down the slope on the other side – but no path was to be seen. I spent about twenty minutes stumbling about in deep heather, cursing the purveyors of the ‘zig-zag path’ myth. However, the mythical path came to life about 100m down the slope and then provided a very pleasant descent to the pastures below (Photo 1549).

Photo 1549: Bay of Laig and An Sgurr ridge from Blar Mor (copyright: D.C.Maclean)

I cut through to Camas Sgiotaig, the so-called ‘Singing Sands’, which did not sing for me at all, and tried to go along the attractive rocky shore-line south to the Bay of Laig. It’s only about a kilometre but it’s really tough going. To do this scramble, you have to negotiate tricky rock formations and gullies but it’s worth it for the unique and fantastic shapes you encounter on the way. I imagine it would be possible to go the whole way at low tide but I had to give up about half-way due to exhaustion and rising waters. I climbed the cliff (easier than it looks) and went along the top to the Bay of Laig, famous for providing interesting foregrounds for photographs of the view over to Rum. Then you can walk along the beach for a while but I suggest you get off the beach and onto the farm track behind it before the end of the beach where there’s a difficult stream to cross. Laig farmhouse is attractively situated, nestling on a spot that is sheltered from the prevailing south-westerly wind and near to a small loch and a couple of waterfalls. It’s also the site of ancient settlements. Take a path to the south-east which crosses a stream, passes the loch and goes up a gully in the cliffs to Blar Dubh plantation. Here leave the path which continues through the woods and make your way north-east, keeping as close to the edge as possible. Detour around another waterfall until you emerge on the bluff to the west of Bealach Clithe, the pass between Cleadale and the southern end of Eigg. Around here, find a spot from where you can see a 360 degree panorama that encapsulates the appeal of Eigg:

North – a sheer drop in front enhances the view over Cleadale and the shore from Laig to Blar Mor, a hump at the end of the ridge you zig-zagged down; in the distance, the Black Cuillins of Skye North-East – the cliffs of Beinn Bhuidhe add their forbidding countenance to the Cleadale scene, with another waterfall close by East – the slopes of An Cruachan at the southern end of Beinn Bhuidhe South – the Blar Dubh plantation and the road over to the southern part of Eigg South-West – over the loch by Laig farmhouse, Gleann Charadail leads up to Beinn Tighe to the west and An Sgurr to the east of the caterpillar ridge that dominates the south of the island West – over an inland cove to Laig farmhouse and the rocky, almost vertical, shore- line beyond North-West – Rum fills up the view, as if embraced by the arms of the Bay of Laig; you look directly up Glen Dibidil into the horseshoe of mountains formed by Sgurr nan Gillean, Ainshval, Trollaval and Askival, and along the east coast towards Skye

This astounding view really is worth the effort – or you can cheat by going up the short slope from Bealach Clithe.

Photo 1550: An Sgurr from Galmisdale (copyright: D.C.Maclean)

One note in passing: An Sgurr is not as difficult as it looks (Photo 1550). I was 67 at the time and climbed it in 2 hours each way from the tearoom by the pier without pushing myself (the people who passed me did the whole return trip in 3 hours). What would be difficult, unless you know what you are doing and are a strong walker, is to continue towards Beinn Tighe and down towards Laig, as there are no clear paths and the going is rough and boggy.

2. Alasdair Maclean, Night Falls on Ardnamurchan: The Twilight of a Crofting Community, Birlinn, 2001. 3. Alastair McIntosh, Soil and Soul: People versus Corporate Power, Aurum, 2004.