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Trip 1: the Inner Hebrides

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Trip 1: the Inner Hebrides TRIP 1: THE INNER HEBRIDES This trip was planned to take in all the islands of the Inner Hebrides I had not visited on previous walking holidays, which explains why Skye, Mull, Iona and Colonsay do not feature. Jura is not included because, despite three attractive walks, I did not find a spot inspiring enough to write about. I’m sure there are many such spots on Jura – I just did not reach them. My itinerary was arranged thanks to the ferry services of Caledonian Macbrayne operating out of Oban and Mallaig and bus connections on Mull (to reach Ardnamurchan), Islay and Jura. The visit was over four weeks in August and September 2012. Photo 1867: Map of NW tip of Ardnamurchan and Small Isles (Crown copyright 2015, Ordnance Survey FL-GV 166842) 1: Sanna Bay, Ardnamurchan This trail has a special resonance for me because I was reading an eye-opening book called ‘Night Falls on Ardnamurchan’ (2) about the reality of crofting life at Sanna in the mid-20th century. I recommend staying at the Sonachan Hotel, both for its convenience and for its stunning location (try to book a north-west facing room so that you can see the sunset in summer). Take the road towards Achosnich and, after about a kilometre, there’s a small sign on the right indicating ‘The Old Schoolhouse Path’, which sounds enticing. It also heads in roughly the right direction for Sanna Bay so I thought it was worth a shot. Follow the track up to what looks like the old schoolhouse and then find your way over the shoulder of the heather-clad hills towards the coast. There is a path of sorts but it’s not much more than a sheep-track these days. I imagine it was once the path taken by the schoolchildren on their way over from Sanna. It’s a delightful scramble through the heather with the prospect of the sea to come. Photo 1839: Map for spots 1 and 2 (Crown copyright 2015, Ordnance Survey FL-GV 166842) You eventually emerge onto the coast path from Portuairk to Sanna, from where there’s a magnificent view that is featured on postcards and calendars, looking out over the northern part of Sanna Bay towards the Small Isles (Photo 1547). However, by exploring the promontories you can hit a spot where you can see both the view just described and the view south-west towards Portuairk over the southern part of Sanna Bay: Photo 1547: looking over Sanna Bay to Eigg (copyright: Michael Macgregor, www.michael- macgregor.co.uk) North-West – over the islets at the north of Sanna Bay, Canna, Muck and Rum fill the horizon, Canna fairly flat with steep cliffs at either end, Muck an inconspicuous pimple in front of the jagged peaks of Rum North – over Sanna Point and the northern inlets of Sanna Bay, the Black Cuillins of Skye peep out between Rum and Eigg; the view of Eigg is dominated by a sideways perspective of An Sgurr, the caterpillar-like ridge that runs along the south side of the island North-East – the coast of Sleat, the eastern part of Skye, can just be seen before the hills behind Sanna intervene; in the foreground, the village of Sanna East and South-East – Meall Sanna, the hill behind Sanna Bay South – the green valley running from Achosnich down to Portuairk South-West – over the southern inlets of Sanna Bay, the village of Portuairk, nestled under the slopes of Sgurr nam Meann; over the Portuairk promontory, the northern tip of Coll West – the Sea of the Hebrides, with Mingulay, Barra and South Uist visible on a clear day The spot I found was made the more dramatic by steep drops both to the north and to the south-west. I would recommend walking round Sanna Bay as far as you have the time and energy for. There is an abandoned village, Plocaig, beyond Sanna itself, which makes for an atmospheric stroll, especially if you have read ‘Night Falls on Ardnamurchan’. You could also clamber out onto the spits of rock that jut out into the bay. Then you can return over the coast path to Portuairk, a pretty location in its own right. From here, it’s a 3k slog back to the Sonachan, starting with a very steep hill. Sorry about that – I was fortunate enough to be offered a lift by someone I met on the path from Sanna. 2: Bay McNeil, Ardnamurchan The second choice trail from the Sonachan Hotel is to the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point (‘Britain’s most westerly mainland point’, a tag for tourists that leaves me distinctly unimpressed). The walk past Achosnich and over the pass into Grigadale is a great appetizer, as is the flat hike through Grigadale past the loch and the farm. I particularly liked the verdant view past the farm into the hills on the right. Ardnamurchan Point is O.K. but, on the day after I had visited Sanna, it came a poor second: there is a similar view over to the Small Isles but without the stunning beach in the foreground (Photo 1548). There are additional views over to Coll, Tiree, the Treshnish Isles and Mull; and you can visit the lighthouse exhibition, if you are interested in that kind of thing. I preferred the tea-room (I admit there was an attractive and chatty young woman serving). However, I did walk round the lighthouse enclosure and spotted a bay over towards Portuairk that my lift-giver had mentioned the day before, by the name of Bay McNeil. On the way back, just past a beautifully-situated bungalow on the left with a garden drifting down towards the shore and turning into wilder vegetation as it goes, you come across the Photo 1548: looking past Ardnamurchan Point to Rum (copyright: Michael Macgregor, www.michael-macgregor.co.uk) entrance to a caravan park, with easy access round the side of the gate. There’s no ‘Keep Out’ sign so take the track past several caravans, being careful not to disturb owners in residence. It’s a delightful stroll through dunes and long grass, as more and more of the bay reveals itself. Past the caravans, there’s a wonderful stretch of unspoilt beach with cliffs and rocks coming down near to the shore; and beyond that, a truly magnificent expanse of sand with the dunes of Eilean Carrach to the north, leading towards the point. Cross this expanse of sand to its northern corner and climb the dunes over to a spot where it’s possible to see round the point to the Small Isles – from here, this tremendous all round view really does hit the spot: South – the foreshore of the bay with caravans and dunes behind South-West – over Bay McNeil to the lighthouse at Ardnamurchan Point, just visible round the corner of its promontory; beyond the Point, Coll is clearly seen, while Tiree is rather faint in the distance West, North-West and North – as from Sanna (see spot 1) but from ground level with an immediate foreground of rocks, pools and dunes and with waves murmuring a little further out North-East – the tip of the Portuairk promontory East – the cliffs of the Portuairk promontory This is a far lovelier spot to visit than Ardnamurchan Point, if you are looking for beauty rather than the dubious distinction of standing on Britain’s most westerly mainland point. It’s got everything you would want for sitting by the seashore: peace, solitude, different kinds of views all around, and the essential rocks, sand, pools and waves. It was here that I decided to start this website, so entranced was I by this precise spot that I wanted to share it. So don’t blame it on the sunshine, don’t blame it on the moonlight, blame it on McNeil. Retrace your steps to the beginnings of the caravan park and then look for a path leading off to the left in the direction of Grigadale. This takes you over heathery ground back to the road taken earlier, avoiding most of the caravans, so I guess this is the ‘official’ way to Bay McNeil – the trouble is I really enjoyed my stroll through the caravan park. After such an uplifting experience, the walk back through Grigadale and Achosnich seemed even more beautiful than it had done earlier. I understand from my lift-giver, who has a house in Portuairk, that you can reach Bay McNeil through the hills behind Portuairk: I can tell from the map that this would be another memorable trail, almost certainly affording good views over Ardnamurchan Point to Coll, Tiree, the Treshnish Isles and Mull, as well as over the bay itself. 3: Cnoc Mor, Sorisdale, Coll Coll is a delightful island which knocks spots off the more popular Tiree, in my opinion. The people are more friendly and the scenery is better. No buses, however, so I hired a rather dodgy bike and took off for the north end of the island, hoping for some more seaside magic. Despite battling with ‘Windy Gap’ and drizzle turning to rain, the slog was worth it. I had my eye on a walk round the coast to the northern tip and back inland over Cnoc Mor, which means ‘big hill’, I’m told. From the village of Sorisdale, head north along the coast past two bays, North Bay and another smaller bay over the promontory to the north, where you can turn inland to the south towards Cnoc Mor (called Druim nan Carn on the O.S.
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