Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-Trip: Owlets, Spatuletails and Tanagers
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CLOUD FORESTS OF NORTHERN PERU PRE-TRIP: OWLETS, SPATULETAILS AND TANAGERS FEBRUARY 14–22, 2019 The spectacular male Long-tailed Sylph is common at the Owlet Lodge feeders © Andrew Whittaker LEADER: ANDREW WHITTAKER LIST COMPILED BY: ANDREW WHITTAKER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM CLOUD FORESTS OF NORTHERN PERU PRE-TRIP: OWLETS, SPATULETAILS AND TANAGERS February 14–22, 2019 By Andrew Whittaker WOW! This fabulous Cloud Forest and Foothills tour truly is the mecca of Andean birding, with almost 250 species recorded including a staggering 36 dazzling species of hummingbirds seen well, as well as many colorful mind-blowing tanagers, plus several very neat and exciting endemics! Voted the top two birds of the trip (with outstanding views of both) were the outrageous Marvelous Spatuletail and, of course, the magnificent Golden-headed Quetzal. Another top bird was the fiery, well-named Flame-faced Tanager feeding at eye level 10 m in front of us. Sadly, due to this year’s unseasonal wet period, we were unable to try for the cute Long-whiskered Owlet after having such good luck in the past. The weather was not good enough, and the trail down was way too slippery after the rains. However, I’m sure none of us will ever forget our drop-dead views around our lodge of two mega endemics—the multicolored recently described Johnson’s Tody-Flycatcher and that cute ball of fluff, the Chestnut Antpitta! The rarely seen Chestnut Antpitta gave us all a wonderful show as our patience at last paid off © Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 This tour is always a terrific hummingbird and tanager bonanza ( if you love them as I do, then this is the trip for you )! Again, this trip produced a non-stop iridescent kaleidoscope of colors at lodge feeders and several other private feeders and hummingbird gardens we visited. A crippling Paradise Tanager showed off well at Waquanki lodge off the hummingbird feeder platform © Andrew Whittaker After our short scheduled flight from Lima, our adventure began in Tarapoto, where my trusty driver Valdo picked us up and we drove to a nearby fine regional restaurant. Here we enjoyed delicious tropical fruit juices and freshly grilled Paiche fish steaks (one of the best-tasting Amazon fishes and a true river monster, getting up to 250 kilos, one of the world’s largest fresh water delicacies! Oilbirds in their roost stretching and allopreening © Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 Along the way to our lodge we had an unforgettable visit to the Oilbird cleft where we observed these odd birds at roost through the scope and heard their odd calls as they (kindly) flew around below us! Arriving at the lovely family-run Moyobamba Lodge, we headed into the lodge garden where the hummingbird feeders were alive, as usual. Enjoying a great afternoon hummingbird feast from the well-constructed raised observation platform in the shade, we marveled over close hummers affording excellent studies and wonderful photographic opportunities. Highlights included fabulous male and female Rufous-crested Coquette; the stunning Golden-tailed Sapphire; Black-throated Mango; Fork-tailed Woodnymph; Black-throated Hermit (uncommon this year); lots of Gray-breasted Sabrewings; Sapphire-spangled Emerald; Violet-headed Hummingbird; White-chinned Sapphire; and the tiny Amethyst Woodstar in the flower garden by our rooms. A real gem, the ever-present Rufous-crested Coquette male at the feeders © Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 One of my favorites at the feeders is the Golden-tailed Sapphire male perched © Andrew Whittaker The pleasant forested grounds rewarded us with the newly described species Mishana Tyrannulet, and we enjoyed encounters with the stunning endemic Black-bellied Tanager. Sadly, the local Band-bellied Owls were not up to it this year. For the botanists and even non-botanists amongst us, our visit to the incredible orchid and bromeliad garden was a great thrill. This is one of the best in the Neotropics (with over 350 species), with every size, shape, and color imaginable, which left us all with an orchid overdose and many cool photographs of these spectacular plants, not to mention the wondrous sweet scents from several of these truly remarkable plants. Finally, after a glorious lunch, we had to say goodbye to the wonderful lodge family and begin our climb up into the cloud forests and exciting mountains to Abra Patricia. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 Amazing hummingbirds at the feeder at Waquanki Lodge © Andrew Whittaker En route we had a glorious study of a couple of smart male Masked Ducks at a small pond. Climbing up through lush forest, we bumped into a vocal flock of the odd but spectacular White- crowned Tanager, looking almost jay-like as usual! We arrived late afternoon at the wonderful Owlet Lodge to enjoy the non-stop hummers at the lodge’s feeders. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 Abra Patricia view over the vast steaming cloud forest as far as the eye can see © Andrew Whittaker Exploring these simply magnificent cloud forests from such a lovely location and in comfort was a great joy. The magnificent Golden-headed Quetzal was a real crowd-pleaser, with its fiery crimson underparts contrasting with its iridescent green plumage and golden hues of the head. We all enjoyed both stunning bino views and prolonged scope views as it showed off its splendid bright colors. As I have learned to expect on this wonderful trip, we again saw an amazing number of colorful species of tanagers. They covered every spectacular color combination imaginable from a mouthwatering parade that included Paradise, Grass-green, Flame-faced, Golden-naped, Beryl- spangled, Golden, and Saffron-crowned, as well as Hooded and Blue-winged mountain-tanagers to mention a few. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 Stunning Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager was found in several mixed tanager flocks © Andrew Whittaker For our nocturnal highlights we enjoyed the incredibly ‘’long-tailed’’ male Lyre-tailed Nightjars putting on an unforgettable display chasing females at dusk and, for some, a male Swallow-tailed Nightjar at the lodge catching the abundant moths on the walls. Other memorable moments came thick and fast, including magical stellar studies of the gem of the Andes, the Andean Cock-of-the-rock, a beautiful flock of White-collared Jays, and the recently described and multicolored Johnson’s Tody-Flycatcher. The delightful musical songs of Andean Solitaire echoed around these marvelous forests as we enjoyed birding the very productive road. The star find was a fruiting tree at lower elevation where tanagers rocked; Blue-necked, Golden, Golden-naped, Spotted, Orange-eared, Green-and-gold, Blue-and-black, and a smart pair of poorly-known Golden-collared Honeycreepers added to our excitement. The ever so cute endemic recently described Johnson’s Tody-Flycatcher © Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 We enjoyed looks at this smart-looking White-collared Jay © Andrew Whittaker Daily we marveled over hummingbirds at the lodge feeders, which included the unbelievable and favorite Sword-billed Hummingbird, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Bronzy and Collared incas, Speckled Hummingbird, Long-tailed Sylph, Emerald-bellied Puffleg, and, of course, the endearing White-bellied Woodstar. Sword-billed Hummingbird male was a great success at the lodge feeders © Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 The well-kept Cloud Forest trail system at Owlet Lodge (by far the best-kept in all of the Andes and with a new almost flat trail) was brimming with exotic tropical plant life. There is no better way to experience the shades and colors of the cloud forests: countless colorful flowering orchids, amazing bromeliads, mosses, and lichens festooning the trees. Sadly, due to rain and wood rot, we decided for safety reasons not to climb the Owlet Lodge canopy tower this time. Instead we enjoyed the breathtaking view over magnificent unbroken cloud forest ridge after ridge as far as the eye can see from the lodge clearing. Birding these fine trails around the lodge produced mixed-species flocks and wonderful Green-and-black Fruiteater and Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant. A lovely male Green-and-black Fruiteater © Andrew Whittaker A morning trip to Huembo rewarded us with the mega male Marvelous Spatuletail—truly one of the South American greats, the lovely Andean Emerald, Silvery Tanager, and wondrous studies of a lovely bright Southern Emerald Toucanet with its blue throat. Exploration of lower elevation cloud forest along the road was also extremely rewarding, producing many exciting whirling mixed-species flocks with non-stop action, plus great studies of two endemics—the magnificent Royal Sunagel and Inca Flycatcher, and stunning Crimson- mantled Woodpecker, Streaked Tuftedcheek, and Pearled Treerunner. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 10 Cloud Forests of Northern Peru Pre-trip, 2019 Our exciting visit to a super new hummingbird platform and flower garden was superb so we returned. Highlights included lovely Vermilion and Yellow-throated tanagers, stunning Booted Racket-tail males, Velvet-fronted Brilliant, Olive-chested