Deerness East Mainland
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ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:26 Page 328 EAST MAINLAND - DEERNESS EAST MAINLAND The Gloup (ON Gluppa, chasm, HY593074) is a large cave which has collapsed on the landward side to leave a chasm 70m by 40m and 30m deep, joined to the sea by a cavern 60m long. Access can be had by boat in calm weath- er, but when there is a big easterly sea running the effect is dramatic. Care should be taken near the edge here. Aerial view of Deerness from the northeast with the Mull Head in the foreground The Mull Head from the east The Brough of Deerness DEERNESS (ON Dyrnes, of the isthmus which sepa- the area was paved over and a Mull Head (HY594097), a (HY596088), is about 2km Mermaids Animal Ness, perhaps from rates Deerness from Toab, in a large Pictish house was built. (1.3 miles) up the coast. The Nature Reserve owned by the the shape of the Mull of good defensive position. No remains of a chapel and sur- Council, is about 1.5km (1 In the 1890s, a Mermaid is Deerness (ON Múli, Snout) as doubt the Vikings found it to Norse Times The earlier rounding buildings cover mile) further north. The cliffs said to have been sighted it is like an animal's head) is be a good place for their Scandinavian buildings most of this grassy rock. between the Brough and Swin at Newark Bay for several joined to the rest of the Tings, or meetings. There is seemed to be of a lower stan- Accessible only by a narrow Ber are not very high, but are summers. They were Mainland by a narrow isth- another broch, Eves Howe dard and had poorer quality path and nearly cut off at high still impressive. A rost or tide believed to be the daugh- mus. On the south side the (ON Efri Howe, Upper pottery than the Pictish house. tide, this could be a Pictish or race forms off the Mull which ters of Finnmen, and this lovely sandy beach of Howe), on the east side of Later Viking structures were Norse monastery site, or may is especially spectacular when one was described as being Dingieshowe backed by Deer Sound. Nearby Eves somewhat better, however it be a secular settlement with a an easterly sea, driven by a "the loveliest creature on extensive dunes is one of Loch is a hot spot for migrant is possible that the main set- chapel. There were two phas- southeast gale and a spring God's Earth, or in a' the Orkney’s finest. By contrast waders and waterfowl. tlement has been lost to the es of building of the chapel, flood tide coincide. wide sea. Her face was St Peter's Pool, on the north sea. It may be that the early between which a 10th century most lovely, and her form side, is a large shallow bay Iron Age Excavations near Norse house was a temporary coin was discovered. Very There are several small coves perfect in shape and pro- which ebbs dry. It is very Skaill (HY589064) have re-use of an older house by to scramble down to which few burials were found. portion, while her golden good for watching waders, as revealed the presence of an settlers, who later built new can be utterly peaceful even There are remains of a wall hair, descending below her well as for collecting shells. Iron Age settlement, a Pictish buildings on the site. on a windy day. Otters may and an entrance on the south- waist fell over her snow- Deer Sound is a fine anchor- farmstead, as well as consid- Remains of what may be an be seen among the seaweed west corner, and also a well. white skin. Her posterior age and was much used by erable Norse buildings. 11th century bath house, or and Puffins, Guillemots, The wall was probably a sym- was a tail in the water, and sailing ships. Plough marks underlie all of perhaps a kiln, were also Razorbills and Kittiwakes bolic barrier against the out- a beautiful petticoat these remains. The Iron Age found. breed on the cliffs. Red- side world - not for physical embroidered with silver and Brochs Dingieshowe (ON roundhouse dates from about throated Divers, Arctic Skuas defence, but as a division gold on land, though often Tings Howe, Ting Mound, 100BC and was occupied for The sagas make mention of and several species of waders from the "sinful" outside folded to appear like a tail." HY548033) is at the west end a long time. About AD700 Deerness several times and world. also breed here. Thorkell Fostri, who was The Gloup effective in helping Earl The Brough of Deerness Dingieshowe broch Thorfinn to become sole Earl, lived here. The old church at Skaill had twin towers, but was knocked down in 1789. There is an interesting hog- back gravestone in the present kirk which was found in the graveyard and dates from about AD1100. 328 329 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:26 Page 330 EAST MAINLAND - DEERNESS EAST MAINLAND Covenanters’ Memorial conventicles a treasonable James II had come to the After the Reformation in 1560, offence in 1670, and the stage throne and was determined to the Church of Scotland adopt- was set for a bitter struggle. eradicate Presbyterianism. A ed a strict form of presbyteri- census was taken to help put anism, which was independent In 1679 things had become so down the Covenanters, and sol- of the Crown and rejected bad that a large group of diers were given carte blanche Bishops. It was strongly Covenanters openly rebelled. to kill anyone suspected of against graven images, and did After initial success at the being a Covenanter without not celebrate Christmas or “Battle of Drumclog”, they trial. Men were murdered in Easter. In contrast the Stewarts were roundly defeated at the front of their families, women believed in the “Divine Right “Battle of Bothwell Bridge”. were drowned whilst tied to Newark Bay Covenanters’ Memorial of Kings” and that they were 600 were killed during the bat- stakes in the ebb. Others were appointed by God, so that their tle, and 1,200 taken prisoner. sold as slaves to the West South coast west There are before reaching Newark Bay, is a good place to see waders. divine authority was above the They were held in the Indies or Virginia. A preacher, good walks in both directions another very attractive beach The shore can be followed all civil Kirk. Charles I decided Greyfriars Kirkyard in Renwick, was the last to be from Dingieshowe. Take a which has a convenient new the way back to Dingieshowe, on the introduction of the Edinburgh for five months, dur- murdered for his beliefs, being south-westerly route along the slipway. The dunes here are passing Eves Howe and St “Book of Common Prayer”, ing which some died, others hung in Edinburgh in 1688. low cliffs past a standing full of wild flowers in sum- Peter’s Pool on the way. which was finally published in escaped and some recanted. stone at Stembister. There is a mer. 1637 and ordered to be read In 1689 Parliament declared miniature castle at Claisdie Wreck of SS Tennessee In throughout the land. The remaining 257 the throne vacant. William and Covenanters were to be trans- Mary (daughter of James II) (HY539017) and then a small The path continues to Point May 1940 the 5,667 ton In 1638 the “National ported to the American planta- were appointed joint monarchs geo at Long Geo. From the of Ayre (HY591038), along Norwegian ship Tennessee Covenant” was signed by huge tions as slaves aboard the and Presbyterianism was cairn at Roseness there is a the low rocky coast, where ran ashore on Tammy Tiffy, a numbers of people in Scotland. Crown of London” from Leith. accepted as the established good view over Holm Sound, Lower Eday Sandstone beds small skerry south of Skaill. It was in effect an anti-Catholic Under a Captain Patterson, the church in Scotland. Ultimately Burray and South Ronaldsay. are exposed and there is a She was in a convoy and had statement, and brought the ship reached Deer Sound on 10th the common people won the Return via the road, passing basalt lava flow 7m thick. collided with SS Baron Kirk and people of Scotland December and anchored off day over oppression. Daniel Castle Howe, the old kirk and From here turn northwards to Fairlie due to dense fog. into a virtual state of civil war Scarvataing. When the anchor Defoe reckoned that at least the interesting old farmhouse Sandside Bay and again with the King and the rule of cable broke, the ship was driven 18,000 people were murdered ashore. The crew escaped by by the Government for adher- at Greenwall on the way. return by the road. There are On board was a cargo of soya law. The ultimate result was the destruction of the Stewart means of one of the masts but ing to their beliefs. good views of Copinsay all bean meal and teak. Much of dynasty and the introduction of the prisoners were below South coast east A coastal along this route. this was officially salvaged constitutional monarchy. The beneath battened hatches, and In 1888 a memorial was erect- path goes from Dingieshowe before the ship broke up. Kirk had supported Cromwell, but for the actions of one of the ed near the site of the wreck. to Newark Bay and on to The energetic can continue However local folk “liberat- but when Charles II was crew all would have drowned.