Warmth & Wonder

at Garn Farm

Walking Information

Suggested routes and ideas…

Finding your bearings… This information aims to help you enjoy making the most of exploring the local area on foot, with destination ideas and some suggested routes.

Ordnance Survey Maps of the area are available for you to use – please just remember to put them back in The Barn before you leave. We also link to some walks we’ve tracked using the free ViewRanger app - www.viewranger.com. You can find all our published routes at http://bit.ly/wandw-walks - but always take an OS map as well as the ViewRanger Route (they are only a guide to the route, which you will still need to pinpoint on the OS map).

The lie of the land… There are a number of footpaths in the valley and up to – some of these paths are better kept than others.

So please do bear in mind that some of the footpaths are not very well maintained and prone to getting overgrown in places – it’s the side effect of being a quiet, almost secret, valley.

The routes we suggest are tried and tested, but that doesn’t mean they are always clear and none but the main Offa’s Dyke path are ‘super signed’ or used regularly enough to make them unmissable.

We are always happy to give advice if you are unsure.

Be prepared… Common sense really, but ensure you’re prepared before heading out… the hills can be misleading and the weather can change rapidly – and it’s always colder up on the ridge than it is down here. We recommend long trousers and walking boots anytime of the year.

It can be helpful to have a pair of secateurs in your pocket for clearing brambles on some of the paths (pocket secateurs are provided for your use – in the kitchen walk-in cupboard).

Also please bear in mind that not all dogs are friendly, particularly farm dogs. Having said that most respond to being firm and having a stick waved at them, so it can help to be prepared. On site at Garn Farm A map of Garn Farm shows the land and indicates footpaths, as well as good spots for views, sunsets and campfires. You are welcome to explore and follow the trails. Please ask if you’d like to know where to find signs of badgers and owls. There are also books with ideas for nature-based games and activities.

Clodock and Longtown is a short walk (15 mins) down the road – go down our drive and turn right onto Hunthouse Lane. The Cornewall Arms pub is just after the bridge. To get to Longtown either carry on along the road (bearing right at the junction) – or there is a footpath along the river by the bridge, which comes out at another bridge on the Longtown road, where you can either cross the road and carry along a footpath towards the castle or turn right and carry on along the road to get to The Crown pub and Hopes Shop. Alternatively follow the Merlins Hill route below for a loop.

Merlins Hill / Mynydd Ferddin Mynydd Ferddin is the hill that Garn Farm is on. There is a footpath up the hill off Hunthouse Lane (turn left out of our drive until you get to Puddlestone Farm & Nursery on the corner – beware of the dogs at this farm (they are usually tied up but can be aggressive, the owners are friendly though!). Once you are up on the hill top you can drop down along footpaths to either Clodock or Longtown, both of which offer good views up the valley beyond Longtown. See ‘Walks Map’ for the general routes.

Walterstone and Carpenters Arms There is a nice route over fields, with views towards The Skirrid, to the Carpenters Arms Pub in Walterstone. It is under 2 miles and usually takes 40 mins (there are gates to climb over and in sections it gets overgrown, so secateurs can be handy). See the ‘Walks Map’ for general route. For a mapped route on ViewRanger see our routes at http://bit.ly/wandw-walks - Garn Farm to Walterstone and Carpenters Arms Pub

The Black Hill / Crib y Garth Just up the valley and well sign posted is The Black Hill or Crib y Garth (Cat’s Back), which offers a fantastic walk for all ages. On a clear day the views into are amazing, and from the top you’ll start to see the peaks of the highest points of the Black Mountains over Hatterrall Ridge.

By car (20 mins drive) There is a car park (signed by brown picnic signs from Longtown) which takes you up a good part of the hill, from where you can then explore as far up as you want. There is a clear route straight up or bear right half way up the first steep section for a less steep ascent.

Round Loop (5 miles) As shown on the ‘walks map’ you can make this a lovely loop by walking all the way along the ridge past the trig point until you get to a footpath on the left (marked by a pile of stones) down into the Olchon Valley, and return to the car park along the road. See the ‘Walks Map’ for general route. For a mapped route of this loop on ViewRanger see our routes at http://bit.ly/wandw-walks - The Black Hill Loop

Olchon Valley The Olchon Valley is a lovely spot sheltered on one side by the upper reaches of Hatterrall Ridge and on the other by The Black Hill. The Black Hill Round Loop above includes walking along part of the Olchon Valley, but you can drive along it to explore it separately too. Follow directions above to The Black Hill, but rather than turning off for the car park carry along until you get to the horseshoe of the valley and park by the bridge. You can then walk up the bridleway into the upper reaches of the valley. See ‘Walks Map’ for general route - note a good picnic spot by waterfall.

Black Darren and Red Darren Up the valley on the opposite side from Garn Farm you can usually make out Black Darren and Red Darren ('Darren' signifies 'edge' in Welsh), on the eastern side of the Hatterrall ridge west of Longtown, a set of landslips formed by glacial action. They offer a fairly steep but clear walk up to Hatterrall Ridge, with fantastic views into England from the parking area alone.

By car (15 mins drive) Head to Longtown, past the castle and school, and then on leaving the village take the first left onto the ‘Mountain Road’. Follow this down and up, over the cattle grid and along until you get to a parking area (look out for stone information sign). From the car park you can explore either Red and Black Darren. Our favourite is to go up between the two and bear left up Black Darren. You can then go back the way you came or…

Round Loop (5 miles) As shown on the ‘walks map’ you can make this a lovely loop by continuing and walking all the way up to the Hatterrall ridge, joining the Offa’s Dyke path for a while before turning right off it at a stone marked ‘Darren’ and following the winding path down the Red Darren side and returning to the car park. See a mapped route of this loop on ViewRanger at http://bit.ly/wandw-walks - The Darren’s Loop

Hatterrall Ridge Hatterrall Ridge is the main ridge running across the valley from Garn Farm. Along the top runs the border between England and , and the Offa’s Dyke path. It offers great views into England, and, from the top into, Wales and the rest of the Black Mountains. See the ‘Walks Map’ for general locations for getting there:

By car It is possible to drive up to the southern end of the ridge, parking on the side of the road before the gate, and then walking up along the ridge as far as you want. It offers a gentle hill walk with great views into , the Black Mountains, and on a clear day down to Newport and Bristol Channel.

On foot It is possible to walk from Garn Farm up to Hatterrall Ridge, and there are a number of footpaths up. Our favourite is the following route which takes you part way up – high enough for the views but not to the very top, although does have options to extend it to the very top.

Round Loop (6 miles) – From Garn Farm towards Hatterrall Ridge this loop takes you on foot part way up towards Hatterrall Ridge, via Walterstone and Oldcastle, with fine views into England along the old green lane, before dropping back down to Clodock and back to Garn Farm along the road. It is under 6 miles but with a 1000ft altitude gain/loss, usually takes 4hrs 30mins - although does go nearby two pubs! See a mapped route of this loop on ViewRanger at http://bit.ly/wandw-walks - Route from Garn Farm towards Hatterrall Ridge

Vale of The is the next valley west from us and offers popular walking routes. From Garn Farm it is a great walk up and over Hatterrall Ridge to Llantony Priory (but it is a long all day walk so be prepared) or a 30 mins drive. There is a car park at the Priory, and a Hotel and Bar in the grounds serving teas/coffees, ales and meals.

Further up the valley is Capel-Y-Ffin with its tiny white chapel and semicircle of seven ancient yews (in the graveyard are two gravestones with elegant script carved by the artist Eric Gill, who lived here in the 1920s). Further up the valley is which provides access to and Lord Hereford’s Knob (), both offering the ultimate panorama.

Grwyne Fawr Reservoir The next valley west of the Vale of Ewyas provides access through the Mynydd Du Forest and a walk to Grwyne Fawr Reservoir. From Garn Farm it’s a 45 mins drive to (Mynydd Du) Car Park and Picnic Area (NP7 7LY) and then 60 mins walk up to the redundant reservoir with Victorian dam. Follow footpath up track to the right. It is also possible to do a longer loop to the highest point in the Black Mountains, Waun Fach, before dropping down to the reservoir.

The Skirrid From Garn Farm you look south towards The Skirrid (also known as Holy Mountain or Ysgyryd Fawr) with its distinctive landslip, which is a popular walking destination with car park at its base (the route up can get busy). From Garn Farm it is a 20 mins drive - head towards on the A465, proceeding past turning to Mardy and Abergavenny, take the left for the B4521and Skenfrith – The Skirrid car park is along this road on the left. Beyond the car park is the Copper Kettle Tea Room – 01873 851929 / NP7 8AP.

The Sugar Loaf Another popular hillwalking destination a little further away towards Abergavenny is The Sugar Loaf, which has a range of good routes up, with well maintained footpaths. From Garn Farm it is a 25 mins drive - head towards Abergavenny on the A465. There are lots of routes up and options for parking. A favourite is to use the car park at NP7 7HU near Porth-y-parc.

The Golden Valley Six great walking routes in the Golden Valley at Michaelchurch Escley, Peterchurch, Dorstone, & , Hardwicke and Snodhill are available – printed copies are in this folder and they are also available at: http://www.herefordholidays.co.uk/activities.php

The Olchon Valley Walks Map Nice picnic spot off main footpath by waterfall here

Park here by bridge on side of road

The Black Hill or Crib y Garth (Cat’s Back) Park here

Round loop via Olchon Valley shown by

Gospel Pass, Hay Bluff and Lord Hereford’s Knob Black Darren & Red Darren Capel-y-Ffin Park here Round loop shown by

Longtown, Hopes Shop & The Grwyne Fawr Crown Pub Reservoir Park here Clodock & and follow footpath Cornewall up track to the right Arms Pub

Merlins Hill Round loop via Clodock or Vale of Ewyas Longtown Priory shown by Hotel and Bar in grounds

* Garn Farm *

Carpenters Hatterrall Ridge: Arms Pub By foot –routes up to Hatterrall Walterstone Ridge that are usually accessible shown by and Footpath to Walterstone Garn Farm towards Hatterrall Ridge shown by Route shown from Walterstone to Clodock by

By car – park on road side before gate here

The Skirrid- off The Sugar Loaf - map about here off map about here Car park and café Car park at NP7 7HU nearby. Routes Lots of routes up. either straight up or loop via the far side. Hatterrall Ridge Hatterrall Ridge is the main ridge running across the valley from Garn Farm. Along the top runs the border between England and Wales, and the Offa’s Dyke path. It offers great views into England, and from the top into Wales and the rest of the Black Mountains.

Round route to walk up - see View Ranger route

Route to drive up – turn left our of drive, right at end of road, past Carpenters Arms Pub. At end of road turn Park here left towards on left Pandy, and then before gate right before bridge. Follow this road and take the right. Follow this road until you get to the end with a gate (it is windy and narrow). By car It is possible to drive up to southern end of Hatterrall Ridge, parking on the side of the road before the gate, and then walking up along the ridge as far as you want. This is easy walking.

On foot From Garn Farm towards Hatterrall Ridge this route takes you on foot part way up towards Hatterrall Ridge, via Walterstone and Oldcastle, with fine views into England and back to Garn Farm along the old drovers path, before dropping back down to Clodock.

Under 6 miles but with a 1000ft altitude gain/loss - usually takes 4hrs 30mins. Download route at http://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MTc5OTIwNw

Route from Garn Farm Warmth and Wonder Garn Farm towards Hatterrall Ridge

Route Summary

This is a suggested route for guests staying at Warmth & Wonder. From Clodock towards Walterstone down over Monnow River and then up to Oldcastle and towards Hatterrall Ridge with views into England, and down into Clodock.

Route Overview

Category: Walking Length: 8.990 km / 5.62 mi Last Modified: 11th May 2018 Difficulty: Medium Rating: Unrated Surface: Moderate Date Published: 11th May 2018

Description

Suggested route for guests staying at Warmth & Wonder - www.warmthandwonder.co.uk

From Garn Farm over fields towards Walterstone (Carpenters Arms Pub just up road) down over Monnow River and then up to Oldcastle and towards Hatterrall Ridge, along the old drovers lane/path with views into England, and down into Clodock (coming out at Cornewall Arms Pub), before following Hunthouse Lane back up to Garn Farm.

Under 6 miles but with a 1000ft altitude gain/loss - usually takes 4hrs 30mins. Download route at http://my.viewranger.com/route/details/MTc5OTIwNw

Rough in places - particularly path above Penywyrlod to old drovers lane/path. You will need to fight through bracken at this point and take care of drop/fence to east.

Waypoints

1 / 3 3 / 3 3 / 3 Your suggestions We will appreciate your feedback and suggestions on things to you’ve done and adventures you have had. And if anything mentioned is dated or changed please do let us know.

Please also do share your favourite’s and tips for future guests in the little turquoise hardbacked book on the bookshelf.

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a special place to stay overlooking the Black Mountains Warmth & Wonder at Garn www.warmthandwonder.co.uk Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire side. Straight ahead you will have views of Vagar Hill and its distinctive communications tower. This Common features in the Snodhill Walk, another in this series.

Follow the woodland edge to your left through the waymarked gate and on down, still Golden Valley Walks following the woodland edge, keeping a narrow belt of trees to your right. Cross the next stile adjacent to a gate and head diagonally right over and down the hill to the bottom fence. Follow this keeping it on your right, through the field gate in the corner and continue down along the short, defunct hedge line to the overgrown hedge, Peterchurch keeping it on your right to the bottom of the field to a stile. Cross stile and turn right and then you are at point B above.

•••••• 0 8

HISTORY AND FABLES 8 5 3 0 0 0 1

St Peter’s Church L A . o

Legend has it that St Peter visited the Black Mountains early in the first century where n e c

he is said to have established a chapel on the site where the later Saxon church was n e c i built in 786AD, the event still celebrated on St Peter’s day. This church was replaced by L . d e the present Norman one in about 1130 after destruction by the Welsh. A yew tree in the v r e s e

churchyard is said to date from the late C13th. The tower is now made of fibreglass and r s t at 186 ft is one of the tallest in England. The stone altar is 5,000 years old and is made h g i r l from one of the stones from the nearby ancient burial site known as Arthur’s Stone. l A . t h g i r

The Golden Valley Railway y p o On the opposite side of the river from the church was the C19th Peterchurch station. To c n w the west of this is a dry watercourse where the river was diverted so the railway line o r C

would not have to cross it. © p a m 0 0

Vowchurch and Turnastone 0 0 5 :

It is said that the names of the parishes of , which means ‘multi-coloured 1 y e church’, and Turnastone, which probably signifies a thorn thicket, came about from two v r u S

medieval sisters who each wanted to build a church. The one living in Vowchurch said to e c n the other “I vow I will build my church before you turn a stone of yours”. However, a n d r

since both churches are of Norman foundation this can hardly be more than a neat pun. O n o d e s

St Bartholemew’s Church at Vowchurch, close to the , was a favourite church a b p of the poet John Betjaman. Lewis Caroll’s younger brother, Skeffington Hume Dodgson, a was vicar of the church from 1895 to 1910 and is buried here with his wife. M

Turnastone is one of the smallest parishes in the county with only 530 acres and a This walk begins close to one of the most significant landmarks in the population of only around 30, half that of a century ago. The parish church dedicated Golden Valley, St Peter’s Church, and follows the River Dore to the hamlets to St Mary Magdalene is probably of late C12th origin. of Turnastone and Vowchurch before ascending Vowchurch Common for its spectacular views to the Black Mountains. After further ascent the far For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily). reaching views of northern Hereford and southern open up.

OS Map no: Explorer OL13 Distance: Long route: 9 km (5¾ miles) Short route: 8 km (5 miles)

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. From the car park go into the churchyard, stop to admire the wonderful veteran yew, Continue up the steep track. Gradually the soils get thinner and the lane more shady and probably many hundreds of years old, walk along in front of the church (noting the Irish cool. From the first rocky outcrop across the path look out for typical woodland plants, such yew on the right) and through a gate onto a path which brings you out by the Police as sanicle, sweet woodruff, wood avens, violets, enchanters nightshade, the delicate grass Station on the main road. Go right and just past Closure Place take the footpath on your wood melick, and the strap-like frond of hart’s tongue fern. right and go diagonally left to a stile into the lane. At the top of the lane you reach a flat grassy area and here you have two options for Turn right and follow the lane, over a small brook (the River Dore), to the crossroads by a returning to Peterchurch – slightly shorter and through the woods, or longer with school. Take the bridleway left, cross the brook and continue along the bridleway with the magnificent views – your choice could depend on the weather! brook on your left. Here in its upper reaches the Dore is a fast flowing brook, with natural pools and riffles, lined with trees and shrubs which help protect the banks. Continue Short route starts here (Point A on map) through four more fields, noting the beautiful large hollow field maple in the third. The hillside up to your right has a number of small copses which could be isolated islands. To return through the wood turn left through the gate marked with the blue bridleway However, the network of wonderful thick hedges provides corridors between the woods mark, and follow these waymarks through the wood; the track can be very muddy!! You allowing insects, mammals and birds to move safely, essential for the dormouse in will pass an area on your left where the conifer crop has been removed. The extra light particular. The hedges contain a mixture of native plants which provide food (nectar, berries favours pioneer species such as silver birch, rosebay willowherb and bracken. As tree species and nuts), shelter and nesting places. such as ash and oak come though the canopy closes and the pioneers are shaded out. Turn left down the surfaced road, past the mast on your right and follow the bridleway At the end of the fourth field go though the field gate and cross a footbridge to your right, waymarks behind the farm, through one small gate and then down the main drive. Just then turn left and cross the stile. Follow the brook on your left for two fields (crossing one before the cattle grid turn right and follow the path to the stile. stile). The footpath turns sharp right (you could cross the bridge and walk through the caravan site to the Poston Mill Inn for refreshments) and follows the Dore. Continue along Cross the stile and go slightly diagonally right to another stile in the hedge. Cross the stile the Dore and field margin till you get to a field gate (you may go through a temporary then turn sharp right down to the corner of the field. Follow the hedge/tree line on your field gate by the overhead power lines). Go through the gate and diagonally over to the right through a gate and into the next field till you come to a break in the hedge with a road in Turnastone. crossing point. Go right following the waymarks and cross the stream over a small bridge and then straight ahead up to the stile in the hedge. Cross the stile and continue straight Take five minutes to visit the quaint, simple church. Up to your right is Turnastone Court ahead, bear left through the gate and between the two fences to the second gate. Farm, recently acquired by the Countryside Restoration Trust who farm the land in an environmentally friendly way and produce rare breed meat such as Tamworth pig, Ryeland B. Go through the gate and keep to the left of the field, down into the sunken lane (can be lamb and Hereford beef. very muddy). At the bottom turn right and cross to the field gate. Go through gate and turn left onto the lane which takes you down to the main road. Turn right and return to 2. Leaving the churchyard turn left and follow the road past Vowchurch church to the main Peterchurch. road. Cross and head up the steep lane signed to Vowchurch Common. Take the first footpath to the left just below the large house, and follow the track up the hill. The views To continue with the longer route (Point A on map) turn right to the crossroads, and as you follow the track up and round the hill are spectacular over the Black Mountains and take the fingerposted footpath to the left opposite Blackberry Cottage. Keep straight (Cat’s Back Hill) and you can clearly see the network of woodlands and with Cider House to your right, through the metal gate to the end of the track. Follow the hedgerows amongst the small fields higher up the hillside. As the track bends to the right waymarked lane to the right of Hill Farm, and cross the stile into the field. Stay on the right look out for a badger pit latrine on the verge under the second large oak on your left. Just side of the field and cross the next stile onto the track. Turn left and follow the bridleway past this the views open up onto Cwm Du Cottage and hill where there are traces of a hill signs. The views from here are wonderful to the north of Herefordshire and into south fort. You may well hear buzzard calling as the woodland is a great habitat for this large Shropshire. bird of prey. 3. Where the track takes a sharp right turn by the entrance to Hill Farm continue straight As you continue the track turns into a green lane lined with superb multi-stemmed oaks or on for 30 metres and cross the stile to the right into the field. Follow the right hand field pollards. These trees were cut for a renewable source of firewood etc. Normally these trees boundary (noting the wonderful veteran oak and ash in the corner – old boundary trees) would be cut to ground level – coppicing. In this situation, on grazed pasture, the trees around to the top left corner, through the field gate ahead of you following were cut at head height to stop cattle browsing the re-growth. On the right is a wonderful waymarks. Go straight ahead following the track through the next field thick mixed hedge which could easily support dormice, with its mix of hazel and holly passing under the power lines. Go through gate and follow track passing providing food and shelter, the thick hazel coppice behind providing links and travelways to through a copse and into a small field keeping along the right hand other woods, and honeysuckle providing essential nesting material. boundary.

In the summer the open stretches of the lane become rather overgrown; please persevere – 4. Opposite you will see an old stone stile with a new wooden one as soon as you get back into the sheltered green lane the vegetation opens up again! behind; cross these and go straight across to the wood on the opposite Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire on your left and into the field through a small gate on the right. Walk down the field to the bottom left hand corner, through the gate and diagonally left to the far corner. Golden Valley Walks

Go through gate and straight down with the hedge on your left, through a field gate, past the wonderful Old House on your left and down the track. Take first stile on left and go diagonally left across field. Michaelchurch Escley Cross stone stile, brook and stile. Cross stile and go straight across field to stile in hedge, cross it and turn left onto road. Walk along the road and go through the field gate on the right with a fingerpost, across a

small field and over a footbridge back to the Inn. 0 8 8 5 3 0 0 0

•••••• 1 L A . o n

HISTORY AND FABLES e c n e c i L . d

Michaelchurch e v r e s e

The church contains a large wall painting depicting Christ of the Trades. r s t h

The gridiron and frying pan are discernible. g i r l l A . t h g

Michaelchurch Court i r y p o

This house, which is Elizabethan and half timbered with gables in various c n w

patterns, is a possible site of the fictional Chalet School in the books by o r C

Elinor Brent Dyer. She told how the school was evacuated to the Golden © p a

Valley during the Second World War. The author was herself the m 0 0 0 headmistress of a preparatory school in Hereford. She wrote another 0 5 : 1 children’s novel, The Lost Staircase, which is also set in the Golden Valley. y e v r u S e c n

Black Hill (also known locally as ‘Cat’s Back’) a n d r

Bruce Chatwin used the name for the title of his book ‘On the Black Hill’ O n o

(1982). This reflective novel about the pastoral lives of twin hill farmers d e s a born at the beginning of the C20th captured much of the essence of the b p a remote life of the Welsh border country. More recently local people M fought off a proposal to erect a wind farm on the side of the hill.

For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily). This walk is highly scenic, passing from Cefn Ridge over the Black Hill car park and picnic site and back to Michaelchurch. There are some steepish gradients but it is well worth the effort.

OS Map no: Explorer OL13 Distance: 11 km (7 miles)

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. Park at the Bridge Inn, Michaelchurch, with permission, or on the Cross stile and go diagonally down to the right to the field gate. Cross the left just up Craswall Road opposite the church. next field to the stile in the hedge above the gate, down the steps and another stile into the farmyard. Go sharp left in front of the house onto From The Bridge Inn walk up to the main road and turn right (after taking track, over the on wooden footbridge and to the road and 5 minutes to explore the church). Take first left signposted Craswall. After turn left. New Barns Farm and right hand bend go straight, where the road turns to the left, along the track with fingerpost to Michaelchurch Court. Keep right 3. Take the first right, ‘no through road’, up a long steep lane; take your at fork behind the house. The old stone wall on the right is cool, shady and time and enjoy the cool shade of the overgrown hazel hedges, and damp, perfect for the mosses, liverworts and ferns that cover it. Black botanise along the verges. At the top take the bridleway to the left along a spleenwort, polypody and the straplike fronds of hart’s tongue fern are the beautiful green lane again lined by hazel hedges on hedge banks, onto most distinctive. Keep straight on with the new green barn on your right Black Hill. and Holly Wood on your left. Black Hill is a registered Common, and has 45 registered Commoners who At the end of the wood cross the stile and bear right down across the field have rights to graze the hill with sheep, cattle and ponies. It is a small part through the waymarked gap in the hedge line and across the field to the of the Black Mountains which straddles the border into Wales, and is large oak in the bottom corner. After the metal gate by the farm take the covered in acidic grassland and shrub heath. first metal gate on the left and follow the track by the hedge. After next metal gate continue straight again following the farm track to field gate. Follow the distinct track along the flank of the hill until you reach the Continue along the track with the hedge on the left. Before the next field picnic area and car park. A good place for a sit and to drink in the views boundary bear right down to the bottom of the hedge in front of you, and some tea! cross stile in the fence and go straight ahead to a small bridge, another small field with Holt Barn on your left, and join the farm track. 4. Walk down the lane and take the first stile over the fence on your left. Bear left over the hill down to the stile, turn right through field gate, and a 2. Turn left behind the farm and then right on track though field gate and short way down go through gate on left. Head downhill keeping the field over a brook. Go directly up the field keeping roughly parallel with the boundary on your right, following bridleway waymarks and gates to the hedge on the right, and aiming to the right of the line of trees that comes road and turn right. half way down the field. Cross stile at top left hand corner, then the next field, arriving at Cefn Road, an old green lane or drovers road. These were Just after Blackhill Farm sign on the right turn left down the track to Upper mostly used for moving animals and they were often sunken and hedged to Cwm Farm. Bear left on track, right over footbridge and left uphill to the keep the animals under control. stile in the hedge. Cross and follow fence and hedge on your right. Go right through field gate and diagonally right up to the top corner of field and Cross the lane and bear right over the hill in the next field. On a clear day cross stile into a small wood. Go diagonally left to stile in far top corner and you will be rewarded with beautiful views over The Offa’s Dyke ridge, and left through gate and along the lane to the road. the Black Hill (or the Cat’s Back) where you are heading. This kind of landscape is a rare sight these days, a patchwork of small irregular fields, 5. Turn right and immediately left over stile and follow bounded by thick hedges which link small copses and larger woods. Above field edge round to far right hand corner, cross stile and the fence line is the open moorland of Black Hill. go directly across next field through the field gate and aim for the barn. Go through the waymarked gap in the tree line just above the ruined buildings (Trelan Farm), cross the stile behind the first building and bear The owners of The Glebe would ask you not to down left to the metal gate. Go straight across the field, keeping the fence follow the right of way through their garden but on your right, to the stile in the fence below the field gate. Note the lovely to go through the field gate and then directly veteran ash tree. Cross and go down to stile in middle of hedge below. down with the barns on your right and the house Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire

Hardwicke Green, also formerly known as ‘Gibbet Green’ Here the bodies of executed criminals were hung up at various sites, most notably those of two members of an infamous gang known as ‘The Six Welshmen’ who had committed murder in Glamorganshire sometime in the second half of the C 18th. Golden Valley Walks ‘A dangerous and disgusting practice: it frightened the horses’ – no doubt the local people as well!

The Golden Valley Railway Hardwicke The walk twice crosses the old route of the Golden Valley Railway. The route is not what the railway promoters wanted. They planned that the railway should run close to the road (B3438) down to Hay (car park). However, strong protests from local landowners forced the railway to take the longer way round via Clifford. The 0

Hardwicke horses and pheasants remained undisturbed by the puffing monster, the 8 8 5 3 railway locomotive, when it finally arrived in 1889. 0 0 0 1 L A .

Clock Mills o n e Clock Mills in 1793 was quite significant consisting of a water corn mill, grist mill, c n e c i cider mill and clover mill with yard house and gardens. Sadly all that now remains L . d e is the mill stream which flows through gardens formally laid out and originally v r e s e designed by Christine Dixon, second wife of Rafael Sabatini, author of r s t

'Scaramouche' and 'Captain Blood'. Christine was a famous sculptor and a h g i r l recumbent statue of her son can be seen in Hay Cemetery. During the 1950's when l A . t mains water was brought to the area Mrs Sabatini had stone features placed along h g i r y the mill stream, many of which remain. p o c n w o r

Newton Tump C ©

On a map of 1786 old chapel ruins are marked on the deserted village site here. A p a m

fine motte and bailey is the obvious landmark today. 0 0 0 0 5 : 1 y

Windle Park Wood e v r u

Once known as ‘Windhill Park’, this is one of the ancient woodlands in the Parish. S e c

In the spring it is carpeted with wood anemones. Note the line of pollarded oaks n a n d along the field boundary on your left as you leave the wood after the metal gate. r O n

These mark part of the boundary between Clifford and Westbrook Manors. o d e s a b p

Holy Trinity, Hardwicke a Dedicated in 1853, this is a harmonious and pleasing example of an early Victorian M church. The plaques in front of the organ commemorate the three men who were the organists at the church between 1853 and 1994 – some 140 years – a This walk which crosses fine agricultural land, wooded streams and ancient remarkable record of dedicated service! woodland around Hardwicke and Middlewood takes you near the sites of both a gibbet and an ancient motte and bailey. Enjoy splendid views over The Haven the and up to the surrounding hills of Merbach, Little Mountain The former vicarage where the Rev Thomas William Webb lived 1856-85. He was a and Hill. celebrated amateur astronomer who viewed the night sky from a small wooden observatory in the front garden. With little light pollution the stars are still as bright as they were for Thomas.

For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily). OS Map no: Explorer 201 Distance: 9 ½ km (6 miles)

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. Starting from the car park adjacent to picnic site on B4348 take the stile at the two fields until you cross a footbridge over the stream. Bear left to walk along the junction of the B4352 and B4348. Aim diagonally left across field to a stile at opposite hedge uphill to the field gate and across two small fields to stile and into the lane (the corner of field. Cross stile and follow left hand field boundary to corner. Cross over field on the left has the wooded Newton Tump motte and bailey - somewhat obscured stile on left and turn diagonally right to stile in hedge. Cross stile and footbridge to now by the field hedge). Go right up the lane opposite until you come to a huge ash pass beside cottage, through gate and turn left onto bridleway following this to road. tree covered in ivy. These veteran trees are invaluable in the countryside being home Turn left and take next footpath on right by side of cream coloured house, then right and host to many insects, birds and small mammals. Contrary to popular belief, ivy over the first stile. Follow the hedge on the right around the field behind the houses. does not harm a tree in any way, merely using it for support, but ivy is a very valuable Cross the stile and head diagonally to the far bottom corner of the large field where a plant to other wildlife. The thick dense leaves provide cover for many birds, small new footbridge crosses the brook. mammals and particularly as a bat roost. The flowers produce nectar, and the berries which appear late in the year have one of the highest fat contents of any plant – a These small dingle woodlands have survived because of their inaccessibility. They are lifeline for wildlife in the scarcity of winter. havens for wildlife with a variety of habitats in a small area: stream, old trees, dead wood and coppice. They not only support their own wildlife but provide important Cross the stile to the right. Go straight down the field and then diagonally left to the havens for creatures on the move, acting both as stepping stones and corridors when bottom corner of the next field. Note the large rookery in the trees on the right of linked by hedges to other woodlands. this field. Cross the stile, footbridge and the stile straight ahead ignoring footbridge to left. Go straight up the field with the hedge on your left, through the gate at the Head up the steep bank and go right around the ploughed field to a stile. Cross the top, following the stream and fence line to stile. Cross and go straight ahead to stile onto the old railway embankment (disused railways are also very important footbridge over stream, then go diagonally left to metal gate. Go through and follow refuges and corridors for wildlife), and another into a plantation. Bear slightly left hedge on right to cross next stile and railway embankment, straight ahead to next through the plantation and under the electricity lines to the stile. Cross stile and bear stile and along path with garden and house on left. Turn left in front of house and diagonally left across field towards the farm buildings and down to a field gate. Pass follow the track for 30 metres, then walk diagonally left to a stile. through this gate and another, into a field, not going into the farmyard. 5. Cross the stile and follow the hedge on your left to a stile. Cross it and then turn 2. With your back to the farm buildings bear slightly left downhill through the field to left through a gate into Windle Park Wood. Listen out for woodpeckers drumming. cross over a stile and footbridge at the opposite corner, through a tiny bit of wet Follow the well defined path over a stony bridge and up through a gate. woodland (in spring look out for moschatel or town hall clock, bluebells, celandine and lots of ferns). Cross another stile turning left towards the farm track, through Turn right and go across the field to stile. Cross this, the bridleway and another stile. gate, where you will find steps up a bank on your right to a stile. Cross and bear left Cross field, stile, then go left to final stile and across field to pass in front of church to to a stile into another lane. road.

Cross the lane and go through the field gate opposite, waymarked as the Wye Valley Turn right down the road until you come to a stile with a fingerpost in the hedge on Walk (the leaping salmon symbol reflects the fame of the Wye as a fishing river). Walk the right. Go across the small field to next stile. The house on the left is The Haven across two fields keeping the mixed hedge to your left (note the elm in the hedgerow, (see History & Fables below). Cross stile and go left down the field back to the car and the wonderful views of the sinuous loops of the Wye below). Cross the stile and park. bear right past the house and formal garden, along the track to the road. •••••• 3. Cross the road and follow the lane opposite towards Middlewood. The mill stream is another dingle woodland, long, narrow and very damp, carpeted in wild garlic in HISTORY AND FABLES spring, and dripping with ferns, mosses and liverworts. During this walk the can be seen meandering down the valley At the bridge turn right towards Dorstone. After about 100 metres look for steps up towards Hereford. Over the centuries the river has changed the steep bank to the left that lead to a stile in the hedge, cross into the field and course and signs of the former river bed can clearly be seen. head for the impressive poplar tree. Cross the stile and footbridge and bear right The river is deceptively deep in places and in times gone by across the field to the old hedge and into the sunken lane. As you cross this field folk would say that the river was unsafe until it had Merbach Hill lies ahead of you. Much of the hill is registered Common Land. Notice claimed its yearly victim. Once, when a boy was the difference between the bright uniform green of the improved fields lower down drowned and his brothers were warned to keep the flank and the mosaic of colours and textures of the unimproved Common. away from the banks, an old man said: ‘Let ‘em go, let ‘em go! No-one else’ll be drowned this year. The 4. Turn right in the sunken lane, through kissing gate and follow the edge of the next river has had its due’. Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire and North Wales. The few Parliamentarians of the village fought against the Royalists and Colonel Kyrle was commanded to go out from Hereford with a Golden Valley Walks party to surprise the village, which he did on a Sunday morning in mid November. Killing the guard at the entrance of the village, they rushed in and taking the defenders by surprise, shot dead fifteen men, the rest escaping into the hills. The body of one of the dead was later found hanging from a tree near Ewyas Harold & the church. This was the first attack of the war in the county.

The Abbey at Abbey Dore Abbey Dore The Cistercian Abbey of Dore was founded in 1147 by Robert Fitz-Harold of Ewias. The Cistercian order had only been introduced into the country 20 years earlier in 1128 and the monks of Ewias regarded the new Abbey jealously, it 0 8 8 being far wealthier and more impressive than their own little priory. Gerald de 5 3 0 0

Barn, Archdeacon of Brecon, was a bitter enemy of all monks but especially 0 1 L those of the Cistercian order at Dore. In order to give them a bad name, he A . o collected all the scandalous tales of evil doings he could find about them in a n e c n treatise he called ‘The Mirror of the Church’. The monks of the abbey were e c i L .

considered, at the time, to be most unusual, wearing no colourful or woollen d e v r garments, furs or skins and ate only plain and simple food and never meat. They e s e r s

were wise, innovative and far-seeing farmers who developed the land t h g i beneficially until they became corrupt in the C15th. All the monastic buildings r l l A and the nave of Abbey Dore were destroyed in the C16th but what remains has . t h g i an austere beauty and contains much of historic interest. r y p o c n

The Abbey Dore Witches w o r C

The last trial for witchcraft took place in Hereford in 1712. Witches were blamed © p if people were killed or had fits, or if horses or cattle died. Some witches were a m 0 0

particularly feared in the vicinity of Abbey Dore School house where no school 0 0 5 : master stayed for long, all giving the same reason: on dark nights a thump, 1 y e v thump would be heard, windows would shake as if the panes were about to fall r u S out, noises would be heard as if people were moving chairs and the plates and e c n a dishes would rattle. This continued for years until the witch died and nothing n d r was ever heard again. Even in the C20th a witch called Nanny Gunter lived in O n o nearby Cockyard. She was said to have killed and buried some of her children in d e s a a wood and a stretch of road was given the name ‘Nanny Gunter’s Pitch’. b p a M For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily). This walk takes you on a journey through the old kingdom of Ewias. Starting at Ewyas Harold village, walk over the village common to see fantastic views of the surrounding countryside including Abbey Dore. The C12th abbey and Abbey Dore Court gardens can be visited. Return via the ancient church of St Michael in Ewyas Harold, the village where the first blood in the Civil War was shed in Herefordshire.

OS Map no: Explorer OL13 Distance: Long route: 7 ¼ km, 4 ½ miles Short route: 4 ½ km/2 ¾ miles

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. Please park with consideration on the road in the village. road. Turn left along the road past Abbey Dore Court Gardens. At the next road junction turn right and go straight up the hill ahead. Keep an eye out along this From the village centre take the right hand turn after the Temple Bar Inn past the road for buzzard and raven, the latter being given away by their loud ‘pronk school on your right. Cross the stile in the bank directly ahead and walk to top left pronk’-ing! hand corner of the field. Cross the stile and head to the top of the field where there is a stile onto Ewyas Harold Common beside a wonderful veteran oak tree. This lane is Cwm Bank and it is glorious. The road, sunken by use over hundreds of years, is flanked by mixed mature hedges topping traditional hedge banks. As the ‘Common land’ is a misnomer as all common land is owned by someone even if it is lane twists and turns different conditions favour different plants. On the shady cool the local council; in the case of Ewyas Harold Common it has two owners: one north facing banks ancient woodland indicator species thrive along with ferns. On private owner and the Ministry of Defence. There are 35 registered commoners, the drier more exposed sunny banks are herbs requiring a lot of light and thinner with rights to graze sheep, cattle, horses, pigs, ducks, poultry and geese, and seven soils. The hedges themselves provide cover, food and nesting sites for numerous rights of estover (collecting vegetation for firewood and bedding and fodder). species of birds, small mammals and insects, and are complimented by mature trees, including some magnificent multi-stemmed pollarded oaks. A small copse at the Follow the path to the crossroads by cattle grid, taking in the fabulous views down bend in the lane supports a noisy rookery. Mature hedges like this are invaluable as the Dulas Valley to the Black Hill and Black Mountains. Take the track signed to links between isolated woodlands, allowing movement between sites for dormice Foxes and Prospect Place taking the right fork just past the signs. for example.

The main spine of the hill is being actively managed to control scrub and bracken 3. At the top of the lane turn left along the ‘no through road’ over a cattle grid and and to maintain the acid grassland. Cutting and baling allow the removal of the back onto the Common. Follow the paved track round to the right and zig zag bracken litter, which otherwise would build up a deep layer suppressing all other downhill † till you get to an old wind pump on your right. Turn left steeply down a grassland species. There is also mature woodland on site, and the scattered scrub track and through a gate and uphill to a cottage on your left. Turn right and go provides hopping posts for birds to safely move around. The paths are kept cut, through a gate. Follow the stony track (very muddy now), through a gate with with extra wide scalloped areas where herbs thrive on the thin dry soil; these are buildings on your left and turn right onto track, following waymarks, across stile really important for butterflies and other insects as sources of nectar and food and through garden in front of Weavers Cottage. Go out of the gate and continue plants for caterpillars. The springy turf on top of the hill supports large anthills along stony track for about 400 metres and cross waymarked stile on right. Go which in turn attract green woodpeckers which trap the ants with their long sticky straight down field to stile. Cross and follow footpath to kissing gate. Go through tongues. This is the place to spend time exploring or just enjoying the open space – gate and across playing field continuing to right of church and back to village perfect for kite flying on a windy day! centre and much deserved refreshment!

Follow the main track to the renovated house, the Foxes. Continue past it straight •••••• up the grass track across the middle of the Common, passing a house on your right. Bear left then right towards two stone houses and cross the stile to the right just HISTORY AND FABLES before the houses. Ewyas Harold 2. Follow the path and stiles down steeply to the Neville Arms and B4347. Turn left The origin of the name Ewias – or Ewas as it began to be spelt in the C13th – is along road to Dore Abbey, go into the churchyard and down the right hand side of unknown, though some believe it to mean ‘Vale of the Yew Trees’ or ‘Sheep the Abbey. Over the stone wall to your right is an ancient orchard with fruit trees District’. St Michael’s is an ancient site but no traces remain earlier than the C13th heavy with mistletoe. though there was a church in the vicinity of Ewias in 1100 and a flourishing priory in the C13th between the church and the castle. The mound and For a short route back from Abbey Dore (Point A on map) cross the stile opposite earthworks of Ewias Castle can be seen west of the the Abbey lychgate and walk up to the top left hand corner of the field, crossing church. For 500 years it was of high strategic importance stile. This brings you back into the field above the Neville Arms. Retrace your steps and one of the first in Britain built in Norman style back to the Common. When you get to the houses turn right and carry on uphill. before the 1066 conquest. Where the concrete road begins bear left towards a concrete post to join the zig- zag track downhill and continue from † below. The Civil War The village was important during the C17th civil war Go through three kissing gates, cross the field and bridge over the River Dore, turn with its merchandise and military stores on the route left and follow the black metal fence to a kissing gate then along the track to the through the Golden Valley to Radnorshire, Chester Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire to gather bracken and fern. The dense bracken cover is being cut to keep paths open and encourage grazing.

Continue until you reach a fence on your right. Follow this and go through the Golden Valley Walks second metal gate on your right marked with a blue waymark. Walk down the lovely cool sunken lane in to Twyn Coed mixed woodland. Most of the large trees here are oak and ash (with some conifers) with a hazel understorey. Follow the blue bridleway waymarks along the main track, bearing left when you come Snodhill to the surfaced road (right is signed ‘Private Road’). The plantation of larch on the left is at final spacing before cropping. The roadside verge is full of flowers such as violets, wood sorrel, enchanter’s nightshade, bluebell, dog’s mercury and wood avens. 0 8 8 5

Continue along the track, spotting the mistletoe in the apple orchard on your 3 0 0 0 right, which will bring you to the crossroads and thence to the Castle where we 1 L A started. Well worth the walk up the hill for a closer look. . o n e c n e c

•••••• i L . d e v r

HISTORY AND FABLES e s e r s t h g i

Snodhill Castle r l l A

The name ‘Snod’ comes from the Anglo Saxon ‘Snoed’ signifying a piece of land . t h g separated from a manor. The tower is Norman, so the castle was built before the i r y p

end of the C12th. The Castle suffered severely from a bombardment by the o c n

Scottish Presbyterian army in the Civil War. All that remains now is the keep and w o r its gate towers. C © p a m

The ruins feature in the diary of Rev Francis Kilvert. He describes a glorious picnic 0 0 0 0

held there in June 1870. A string of horses and carriages bore members of the 5 : 1 local gentry, ‘an unwonted sight to the dwellers of the Golden Valley’, up to y e v r

Snodhill where they lit a fire to bake potatoes and ate and drank sumptuously. u S e c n a n

Snodhill Court d r O

‘Court’ signifies that the local magistrates dispensed justice in this house which n o d was built in the C17th from the stone of the castle ruins. e s a b p a

Ley Lines M In the 1920s Alfred Watkins of Hereford suggested that these lines marked by burial mounds, standing stones, hill forts, old moated sites and church towers This walk starts at the ruins of Snodhill Castle. It takes you through remote were formed deliberately. One such Ley Line can be drawn from Skirrid-Fawr and secret country, over hills with spectacular views and through woodland (mountain) northwards to Arthur’s Stone, passing over the camp and southern point of Hatterrall Hill, Old Castle, Longtown, Urishay and Snodhill castles. There and wooded stream valleys. From Vagar Hill there are views to the Black also appears to be a line from north, passing through Snodhill Castle Mountains towards the SW and across to the Shropshire hills in the opposite to Whitney. direction.

For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily).

OS Map no: Explorer OL13 Distance: 9¼ km (5¾ miles)

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. Cars may be parked with consideration on the wide verge opposite the needed protection from grazing animals, especially deer, so deep ditches were dug gate to the castle remains but not directly in view of the cottage, or on the around the wood with the soil piled up on the woodland side. The remnants of verge further round the bend in the road. these can be seen along here. The bushes and trees along the top of the wood bank are likely to be very old, and along these sunny edges in the spring you get a flush Leaving the entrance to the castle on your left follow the road between Snodhill of ancient woodland species, such as bluebells and wood anemone. Court and its farm buildings to the crossroads and go straight over up the ‘no 3. Go through the next gate and continue with the remnant wood bank on your through road’. After the stone cottages on the right take the tarmac track to the left, topped by ancient hazel coppice. The ditch is particularly wide here and wet left with the wooden footpath fingerpost, through the edge of a wood of standard judging by the flush of rushes. Walk through the remnant holly hedge, and go on oak with coppice hazel. Tall oaks like these were highly valued for building and ship up with the old hedge and fence on your left. The hedge is fantastic for wildlife, timbers. These oaks were also coppiced to provide a constant supply of timber for nice and overgrown and full of nectar flowers, fruits, berries and nuts, and some making charcoal for early power stations and an extract of the bark was used in the winter cover: holly, hawthorn, hazel, rowan, apple, ash and silver birch. leather tanning process. At the top of the field go through the small gate on your left. The dry stone walls As you leave the woodland an old apple orchard appears on the right. Traditionally are a complete micro habitat, hosting some wonderful limestone loving plants such these orchards were undergrazed, and so produced meat as well as fruit for eating, as thyme, harebell, mouse ear and spleenwort. Follow the wall right through an cooking, selling and brewing! Go through the field gate across the track and follow unimproved field margin, managed unintensively to allow grasses and flowers to it until it runs out staying to the right of the field and aiming for the windmill in flourish. This kind of field margin provides invaluable habitat for wildlife. the trees ahead. Go below the recently fenced area with its plantation of walnut trees and through the field gate, along track to left of the buildings and straight At the top go through the gate onto Vagar Hill. Vagar Hill is a registered Common. ahead through waymarked field gate. ‘Common land’ is a misnomer as all common land is owned by someone, even if it is 2. Follow the path down to the stream and bear right immediately after the bridge the local council. In the case of Vagar Hill it has one private owner, and there are and cross the stile. Follow the trees on your right (note the plantation of larch, the twelve registered commoners with rights to graze sheep, cattle, horses and one only conifer that drops its needles in winter! Its fresh needles in the spring are the right of estovers (collecting vegetation for firewood, bedding and fodder). brightest lime green, and its timber makes good fence posts), going past the old wicket gate to the far corner of the field, cross the stream and follow the fence on 4. Walk across the rough common, keeping roughly parallel with the stone wall on the right. your right, and heading towards the communications tower. Tracks meander through the gorse and bracken which have taken over the acid grassland. Some These small dingle woodlands have survived because of their inaccessibility. They are sheep graze the common but not enough to keep the grassland open. You may see havens for wildlife with a variety of habitats in a small area: stream, old trees, dead patches of burnt gorse. This management opens small areas for the sheep. The wood and coppice. They not only support their own wildlife but provide important stone wall is very distinctive, having a very solid structure topped in places with havens for creatures on the move, acting both as stepping stones and corridors ancient gnarled and twisted hawthorn. You will pass the ruins of Glis Farm on your when linked by hedges to other woodlands. left before you reach the end of the wall.

Look out for the well hidden stile in the fence straight ahead and cross it and the Turn right through the field gate and follow the track past the communications field towards the farm buildings following the waymarked path to reach the lane. tower and straight down the hill. Turn right at the crossroads along the ‘no through Turn right and walk past the farm buildings between the converted barns and road’, past a barn on the left. through wooden gate. Turn diagonally left towards large wooden stable. Go through gate into stable yard and pass to left of stable and go through wicket gate 5. Just after the track turns sharply to the right take the bridleway marked with a by corner of stable into small field. Go diagonally across field through gate and fingerpost on the left. The path turns sharply back down into the woodland. Cross head to bottom left hand corner of field. Climb left up short slope and through the stream and continue following blue waymarks through the gate and metal waymarked gate on your right. following, with the stream on your left, another lovely little dingle woodland. Bear left uphill, aiming for the top right hand corner of field, turn right and follow the old ditch and wood bank on your left. (Do not cross stile). Woodlands were Keep on the track as it rises away from the stream onto the essential to life, providing everything from fuel to tool: lop and top – silver birch, bracken covered West Lawn Common. No owner has been especially, bound tightly into faggots, was used for the quick hot burn for bread found for West Lawn Common, and so, under the Commons ovens; ash, so pliant when steamed, for bending to make wheel rims: medicine to Registration Act 1965, it is ministered under the auspices of building materials – willow, the source of natural aspirin; green oak timbers which the council. There are eight rights of pasture, for sheep, have remained solid over so many centuries. Young trees and coppice re-growth cattle and horses, one right to take tree toppings and one Exploring the wild side of Herefordshire

Continue along the road looking out for buzzards taking advantage of the valley thermals.

C1. By Holly Bush Cottage turn right and then left following the bridleway signs, cross the bridge over the brook and follow the worn path across the field close to the brook. Watch out for large black ravens in Caelees Wood to your right, and listen for their loud distinctive Golden Valley Walks ‘pronk pronk’-ing call. The hazel coppice and trees along the brook are attractive to a range of birds; take time out to sit and watch for a while. Go through the lower bridle gate (not the main field gate) and follow the path with the brook below you on the left. Cross the stream flowing into the main brook and go through Dorstone another bridle gate. Another gate leads you between a hedge on your right and a house on your left, onto the tarmac road.

Go straight ahead to the junction with a house in front of you, go right and right again over a stile then head straight up the steep bank beside the wood. Following waymarks keep

going straight across the next fields and stiles until you reach the road and the famous 0 8 8

Arthur’s Stone. Continue route from † above. 5 3 0 0 0 1

•••••• L A . o n e

HISTORY AND FABLES c n e c i L .

Dorstone Church d e v The present building is the third church on this site. The first church was built before the r e s e

C12th and legend has it that Richard de Brito, one of the four knights who killed Thomas-à- r s t

Becket at Canterbury Cathedral, built a chapel here in 1256 to make amends for his crime on h g i r l

return from his 15 years in exile in Palestine. More recently, the Prosser/Powell family were l A . vicars of Dorstone in an unbroken line from c.1660 until 1953. The present church dates from t h g i

1890 replacing the one built in 1827. r y p o c

The Castle n w o The castle tump can be seen close to the church. It was still in use as a castle in the C17th and r C may have been used as an overnight shelter for King Charles I before he marched with his © p a

army to Holme Lacy the following day. m 0 0 0 0 5 Arthur’s Stone : 1 y

Arthur’s Stone was probably named ‘Thor Stein’ (the altar of the God Thor) becoming ‘Thor e v r u

Stone’ and hence the name of the village of ‘Dorstone’ originated. “D’or” in French means S e ‘golden’ and as the River Dore runs through the valley, the name ‘Golden Valley’ was given. c n a n d r

Arthur’s Stone is a multi-chambered burial tomb of the Neolithic period (New Stone Age) O n dating from about 3700 to 2700 BC. Flint tools and pottery were found nearby. The stone has o d e s given rise to many legends. Arthur is supposed to have fought a desperate battle here with a b another king. Arthur broke his back and was reputed to have been buried under the stones. p a M Others say it marks the site where a giant was slain by Arthur; the stones on the left approaching from Bredwardine, (under the hedge) are reputedly where the giant fell. The hollows on the stones are said to be the marks of the giant’s elbow, whilst others say that the This walk climbs out of the Golden Valley onto Merbach Hill which gives impressions were made by the knees of Arthur when he knelt on the stones to pray. glorious views in all directions including to the Black Mountains, Malvern Hills and the Wye Valley and North Herefordshire beyond, before descending Kilvert and Bredwardine Church to the village of Bredwardine, resting place of the Victorian diarist, Francis The famous Victorian diarist, Francis Kilvert, was vicar of the Norman church of St Andrew, Kilvert, then rising again to the famous burial chamber of Arthur’s Stone. Bredwardine and is buried here. He died in 1879 and sixty years later achieved world wide fame through the publication of his diary. The Kilvert Society has placed a seat in the churchyard to his memory. The village with its attractive stone bridge and pub have remained virtually unchanged from Kilvert’s time. OS Map no: Explorer OL13 For bus timetable information contact Traveline 0870 608 2 608 (open 07.00-22.30 daily). Distance: 10 ½ km (6 ½ miles) Various routes

Prepared for Golden Valley and Black Mountains Experience group by Herefordshire Nature Trusts’ Growing Green Tourism Project. Distance: Long route: 10 ½ km (6 ½ miles) 3. Cross the first cattle grid and continue along the track, watching out for Wye Valley Walk Short route A: 4 ¾ km (3 miles) waymark on telegraph pole (well before second cattle grid) leaving track and heading diagonally Short route B: 8 ½ km (5 ¼ miles) left across field to waymark in old hedge. Head straight on to gate at field corner. Go through Short route C: 9 km (5 ¾ miles) gate and across to next gate. Turn left after gate, over cattle grid and follow track. Before reaching house leave track and head off diagonally right across field to stile. Crossing stile, From the car park by the Post Office turn right and right again and follow the ‘No through road’ continue down track and go through gate to road. Turn left down the steep road to Bredwardine to Dorstone church. Follow the footpath round the left of the churchyard, cross the main road and the Red Lion Inn. and take the signposted kissing gate into the playing field. Follow the right hand side of the field, then go diagonally across to the footbridge. Cross this, a stile in the hedge, the track 4. After suitable refreshment take the track to the left of the pub up the hill. Go to the right of (disused railway line), another footbridge and then the field to the top left hand corner. A stile the converted barn, cross stile then cross another stile beside the field gate. Go to the stile in the takes you into the curiously named ‘Spoon Lane’, an old drove road. top right hand corner of field and then up the steep grassy field, keeping to the right of the large solitary multi-stemmed oak tree. Follow the hedge on left to the stile, cross it and bear left. Go up the steps in the bank opposite, over the stile and cross the field to the top left hand Cross the stile to the right of the field gate, and follow the stream on your right, going behind corner. Then turn left and follow the track passing the farmhouse and buildings. Stay on this the farm buildings to another stile; cross this and then go through the farm gate onto the farm track up the hill until you nearly reach the lane. Head off right to cross stile in hedge, cross lane track. Turn left along the road to the house on the left opposite a stile. and cross the stile opposite. 5. Cross stile then head straight up the steep bank beside the wood. Following waymarks keep 2. Walk up the right hand side of the field to stile into another lane. Turn left along the lane and going straight across the next fields and stiles until you reach the road and the famous Arthur’s take the first stile on your right. Follow the right hand field boundary for two fields (crossing one Stone stile) until you come to the road. Note view of Hay Bluff to southwest. † Route back to Dorstone from Arthur’s Stone (Short route A starts here) 6. Take the path directly behind Arthur’s Stone and follow it downhill across two fields and stiles; Turn left and follow the road until it turns right at Caemawr. Go through the gate and follow the the hedge will now be immediately on your right. Continue down through two more fields then hedge line on your left. cross the stile on your right and follow the hedge on your left for two more till you reach the farm and track down to the road. Go straight down the road, being careful, facing oncoming The windswept bent and twisted old trees in the hedge are very old, stunted by exposure to the traffic as much as possible, until you come to the church. Go into the churchyard through the weather. As the fence drops away keep to the upper side of the scrub following the contours of small gate and follow the path round the church (taking five minutes to look at the well kept the hill. As you pass the mast at the top of the field you can see ahead the tump on top of interior) and out through the kissing gate into the old village. Walk past the old fashioned red Merbach Hill, a registered Common. Go through the gate onto Merbach Hill and cross to the trig telephone box and on to the Pandy Inn. point. Short route A (Point A on map): Turn right and walk along the road to Arthur’s Stone. Continue ‘Common land’ is a misnomer as all common land is owned by someone even if it is the local route from † above. council; in the case of Merbach Common, one private individual. There are a number of Commoners with various rights including the grazing of sheep, cattle and horses, and two rights Short route B (Point B on map): At the edge of the Common take the path to the right, following of estovers: to collect fern, traditionally for animal bedding. the fence line on your left. Note a large badger set next to the path. Badger sets are much bigger than rabbit warrens and the entrances are wider than high (rabbit holes tend to be round), and Go past the trig point following an obvious grassy path to the right and join the Wye Valley Walk you will often find bedding outside the holes, especially in the spring and summer. (as marked on map) following this to the gate at the edge of the Common. You will see that some bracken and scrub management is being undertaken to keep the open feel of the Common. Continue to the crossroads and turn left through gap in the fence into the enclosed muddy lane Traditionally Commons were managed by grazing sheep and cattle; when this stops scrub and and follow this rough track to the road. Turn right and follow the road for a short distance and bracken soon take over and shade out many of the grassland flowers. Clearing the scrub allows at the footpath signpost on the left hand side go through the field gate. Head diagonally left more sunlight to reach the ground, encouraging fine grasses and herbs. across the field towards the farm and go through the waymarked field gate onto the farm drive. Turn left past the farmhouse and leave the farmyard through the waymarked field gate into the (Short routes B and C start here) field. Follow the hedge on the left hand side through two fields and gates. At second gate walk slightly diagonally right past the clump of Scots Pines to the waymarked field gate. Go through At the edge of the Common take the path to the right and then take the small path to the left gate and follow the hedge on the left hand side to the roadside gate. Turn left along the road to to a stile in the hedge with Wye Valley Walk waymarks. Cross the stile and follow the field Arthur’s Stone. Continue route from † above. boundary through the bridle gate and across the next field. Cross the stile and follow the short track; go across the next field with the wood on your left. Go through the gate beside the barn, Short route C (Point C on map): At the edge of the Common take the path to the then through the gate marked ‘bridleway’ left of the ancient hollow ash tree. right, following the fence line on your left. Note a large badger set next to the path. Badger sets are much bigger than rabbit warrens and the entrances Stop here a while, especially on a clear day, to enjoy the fabulous views over the loop in the River are wider than high (rabbit holes tend to be round), and you will Wye out over to the Clee Hills in Shropshire. often find bedding outside the holes, especially in the spring and summer. Follow the farm track down; before the farm house take the wooden gate on the right into the wood, following this path until it returns to the track and turn right. Continue to the crossroads and turn left through gap in the fence into the enclosed muddy lane and follow this rough track to the road.