GREAT BRITISH TRADITION the UK’S Best Fish and Chips

EASTERN AIRWAYS IN-FLIGHT Yours to keep

52 | Summer 2015 GREAT BRITISH TRADITION The UK’s best fish and chips

ALSO IN THIS MAGAZINE: LIFE ON MARS ELEANOR TOMLINSON OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 SUPPLEMENT high ﬂ ying deep drillers

You are probably reading this at 10,000 concept to the one your pilot trained on. ere, metres. e fuel that’s keeping you up here in a unique environment, they mix routine may have come from 3,000 metres under the with crisis to ensure that they take safe right earth’s surface. Everyone responsible for this down into the core of the earth. technologic achievement, from roughneck to captain, from well to engine, has to perform For more information, please contact: to their professional limit. Tomorrow’s oil Tel: +44 (0)1224 228 148 engineers are today at Maersk Training in Email: [email protected] Aberdeen, sitting in simulators, similar in Book online: www.maersktraining.com

a better learning experience WELCOME SGIOBA EASTERN SGIOBA EASTERN chluinntinn. againn, ismuarn-iris, a beachdan munt-seirbheis an-còmhnaidh toilichteur eadar-dhealaichte –thasinn cùramach agusbeagan seirbheis, andàchuid, dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE More prosaically, HarryPearsonisonamissiontofindthe fresh onarestaurant tableinSouthampton. On thesubjectoffood,TinaEdissfindssomethingniceand the IsleofLewisinthis,Scotland’s Year ofFoodandDrink. Red Planet,butOllyDavyenjoysfresh hand-divedoneson We’re pretty sure theywon’t beeatingfresh scallopsonthe career andlifestylemove–toMars! We catchupwithtwowomen,theirsightssetonahuge Turner intheBBC’s PoldarkTVhit. up onHumberside,andwasfemalefoiltoheart-throb Aidan in thisissuewetalktoactress EleanorTomlinson, whogrew But themagazineisaboutfarmore thantheoffshore sector– Middle EastviaEmirates’DubaiservicesatNewcastle. we provide linksbetween Aberdeen andtheoilcentres ofthe And, ofcourse,through ourrelationship withEmirates airline, UK oilandoffshore capital. strategic connectionsfrom around theUKandNorwayto Airways isoneofthoseindustryplayers,thankstoourmany in thishugelyimportantindustrywillgettogether. Eastern in Aberdeen, whensomanyofthemoversandshakers forthcoming Offshore Europe 2015exhibitionandconference This issueincludesourspecialpreview supplementforthe with you andwith pass itround your family and friends! Welcome to the Eastern Magazine Airways –please feel free to take itaway TÎM EASTERN am eincylchgrawn. sylwadau ameingwasanaethac amser ynfalchogaeleich yn wahanol–rydynnibob yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth wasanaethau. Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawno prif gwmnïauawyrennau yn y Airwaysymhlith y Mae Eastern Brydain FawracEwrop. cwsmeriaid ymmhobrhano magazine, ibobuno’n Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO EASTERN-TEAMET servicen ogmagasinet. dine kommentarer ombåde Vi setteralltidprispååmotta ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern velkommen. Storbritannia ogEuropa ønsker våre kunderi Airwaysmagasinet Eastern VELKOMMEN See youagainsoon! board punctual,reliable flights. customers onflexibleticketsandhighqualityservice security atmanyairports,businessloungeaccessfor with selectingyourflight,andcontinuingthrough fast-track aspire toqualityserviceandattentiondetail,starting values ofpunctuality, reliability andconvenience. We We AirwaysMagazinereflects hopetheEastern ourcore Newcastle. luxury break fortwo,withdinneratJesmondDeneHouse, Our competitionthistimeoffers theprizeofatwo-night “country house”hotelexperience. anniversary, whileStanAbbottlooksfortheessenceofa We jointheLandmarkTrust incelebratingitsgolden our ExplorationExpress ofNewcastle. Bletchley, whilenewgalleriesandmuseumsalsofeature in Civil War, Richard IIIandtheEnigmacode-breakers of Our writersexplore newmuseumsdedicatedtotheEnglish important newfine-diningpromise bytheseainCleethorpes. best fishandchipsintheUK,whilewebringnewsofan L’ÉQUIPE EASTERN et notre magazine. comment toujours heureux derecevoir vos fait ladifférence, etsommes besoins, aveccepetitplusqui trouverez attentifs àvos Nous espérons quevousnous un servicedevolsréguliers. aériennes britan principales compagnies AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. Airways de lapartEastern Grande-Bretagne etd’Europe Bienvenue àtousnosclientsde BIENVENUE THE EASTERN TEAM EASTERN THE aires sur notr niques offrant e service e service

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22 HISTORY MAKERS 11 MARS MISSION 31 HOME AND COUNTRY

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07 NEWS 35 COUNTRY HOUSE What’s happening around Eastern CITY BREAK 11 LIFE ON MARS Airways destinations WIN an exclusive break Meet two women who are in the at Newcastle’s Jesmond space race to Mars 10 NEWS FEATURE Dene House Cleethorpes Pier gets a new lease 16 ELEANOR TOMLINSON of life The Poldark star talks to Kevin Maher 26 EXPLORATION EXPRESS Stan Abbott finds reasons to be 19 LANDMARK TRUST cheerful in Newcastle Holiday properties with a difference 36 BARE ESSENTIALS Eastern Airways’ network map, 22 HISTORY CLASS passenger information, essential Three new museums open in the goings-on and destination guides Midlands dedicated to important moments in our history 42 RESTAURANT REVIEW DESTINATION Southampton’s Ennio’s Italian OFFSHORE EUROPE A SUPPLEMENT PRODUCED FOR EASTERN AIRWAYS IN ASSOCIATION WITH SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 28 DEPTH OF FLAVOUR restaurant Getting a taste for hand-dived LOOKING AHEAD OE 2015 AIMS TO INSPIRE THE NEXT GENERATION scallops on the Isle of Lewis 47 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: FISH AND CHIPS 31 TOWN AND COUNTRY All within easy reach of Eastern Urban chic meets rustic charm in Airways destinations two of the country’s best country house hotels 50 THE LAST WORD Harry Pearson on why the

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Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © June 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Arch may be reproduced by any means, without prior written International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Workspace, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH www.gravity-consulting.com Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts e-mail: [email protected] accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither the Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838 publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any liability for Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Print: Buxton Press Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. Front cover: nicolamargaret © istock.com - Civil / Museum War image: Sam Kirby / Mars and Mars image:One Bryan Versteeg [email protected]

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OPENING BATSMAN Dominic Osborne, Hotel Manager, with his team NEW HOTELS AT SOUTHAMPTON AND NEWCASTLE The new Hilton at the Ageas Bowl Hilton at The Ageas Bowl Southampton A 160-bedroom Hampton by Hilton, to Southampton opened in May and joins will provide an additional economic the north of the city’s Central Station, more than 65 Hilton Hotels & Resorts stimulus to the region¹s thriving is the latest hotel opening in Newcastle properties in the country. economy, home to more than 50,000 and one of a number in and around the The striking 171-guestroom property businesses. city centre. The four-star Crowne Plaza opens this summer in the Stephenson overlooks The Ageas Bowl cricket Situated within The Ageas Bowl, the Quarter, to the south of the station, while ground, and its all-day restaurant, hotel offers access to Southampton a boutique hotel is planned for a later BEEFY’S echoes that, with its reference Airport. to Ian Botham. phase of the same development. The new hotel is an impressive venue A 184-bedroom Premier Inn, in Newgate Simon Vincent, EVP and President, for corporate events or grand banquets, Street, will become the brand’s third in EMEA, Hilton Worldwide said: “The offering eight meeting rooms and the the city centre towards the end of the redevelopment of The Ageas Bowl largest ballroom in the region, with year, while German “luxury budget” brings a striking new business and more than 1,500 square metres of event brand Motel One will open its 222-bed- leisure destination to Southampton and space, and room for up to 700 people. room hotel on High Bridge around the an exceptional home for our flagship It also boasts the UK’s first Hilton eforea same time. Hilton brand, which is also expanding spa, with eight treatment rooms, spa across the south coast this year with a A 104-bed hotel near the Quayside, just pool, salon, nail bar and restaurant. new hotel in Bournemouth and major opened, is the first outside London for renovation in Brighton planned.” www.hiltonhotelsouthampton.co.uk “value five-star” brand, Tune. Companies must exhibit ability to stay ahead Supply chain companies are facing fresh to facilitate relationships between its challenges to secure their position in 500-strong membership and network of the offshore oil and gas market, warns more than 3,000 contacts and some of industry body NOF Energy, in the run-up these will be participating with it at Stand to the industry’s major showcase event 1G111. in Aberdeen in September. Among the 14 NOF Energy members Companies with technology-led exhibiting on the stand are A&P Group solutions and innovative services that Ltd, AIS Group, Allerton Steel Ltd and can demonstrate their ability to meet Evolution Valves Ltd. They will be joined n Three torque specialists have set up the cost-saving and efficiency drive by Hertel Technical Services, Asset55 a new oil and gas services business of operators and lead contractors will Ltd, PD Ports, Port of Blyth, QA Weld in Aberdeen. Enerquip will make an increasingly come to the fore, it says. Tech and Spencer Coatings Ltd. initial investment commitment of £6m and provide up to 16 new jobs in the NOF Energy will have a major presence Completing the line-up of members are provision of torque machines and at Offshore Europe at Aberdeen Thermal Transfer Technology Ltd, TSG services to the drilling and downhole Exhibition and Conference Centre, from Marine Ltd, Wessington Cryogenics Ltd tools sectors. The business, in Tullochm, September 8-11 and Whitford Ltd. has been formed by three former senior NOF Energy’s services are all designed www.nofenergy.co.uk personnel of torque business AMC Engineering – Andrew Polson, Dave See our Destination Offshore Europe special supplement at the back of this Clarkand John Duncan – pictured above. magazine, which also includes a feature on our partner NOF Energy. 7 NEWS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS York gets better connected Walled garden blossoms on Teesside York may be one of the UKs most historic cities but it is also A walled garden in the grounds of one of the North¹s most fast becoming one of the most digitally connected, with free prestigious properties opens to the public on August 4 as part of WiFi now available across large parts of the city centre. Free a £5.3m project. WiFi from CityConnect, provided by Pinacl Solutions, can be The Walled Garden, at Wynyard Hall Hotel, Teesside, is the accessed throughout many areas of the city, including key fulfilment of a life-long dream of the hall’s owner, property landmarks such as the historic York Minster, and at all six of the magnate Sir John Hall, whose love of roses began when he was city’s Park & Ride terminals. a child in a Northumberland pit village. Mark Lowe, Strategic Relationship Director at Pinacl Solutions The garden, established by the Marquises of Londonderry said: “With seven million visitors to York each year, free WiFi will in the 19th century, contains more than 3000 roses, and has allow people from across the world to make the most of what been designed and planted by multi-award-winning Royal the city has to offer. Horticultural Society landscape architect Alistair Baldwin. “York is a notoriously difficult city to navigate, so being able The development, to the north of the Hall itself and within the to download Google Maps easily is a must for tourists. With estate¹s 150 acres of grounds, also houses a state-of-the-art that and the rise in popularity of Instagram and ‘checking in’, visitor centre, shop and café, stocking and serving locally- it’s now set to welcome people to the city and ensure they have sourced goods and produce. the best time possible.” www.wynyardhall.co.uk

Brewery Wharf, North of England deals better than France… Leeds The North of England deals market Insider’s research also found the number has outstripped a number of major of deals in the North eclipsed the four European countries over the past two European markets, with 343 recorded years, according to research by Business during the period. The best of the rest Insider, supported by NorthEdge Capital was Germany (294) and France (279). and Altium. Spain and Italy recorded 171 and 161 respectively. For transactions between £10m and £100m, the three northern regions Jonathan Boyers, corporate finance combined are bigger than the markets in partner and head of enterprise at KPMG, France, Spain and Italy. said: “Ten years ago, you could rightly argue that it was all a bit too cosy and Deals across the “greater north” between incestuous across the North, and that April 2013 and April 2015 in the lower deals for mergers and acquisitions were mid-market were worth £11.2bn. simply done between groups of mates. This compares with £10.8bn in France, “However, over the last decade, the £6.8bn in Spain and £6.4bn in Italy. Only community has come of age. It has Germany was marginally ahead of the become more mature and sophisticated North of England, recording a total of in its approach to deals and in its scale, £11.6bn. ethics and expertise.” Yorkshire.com

EASTERN AIRWAYS MAGAZINE COMPETITION WINNER The winner of our competition in issue 51 to win an exclusive two-night break at Ballathie House Hotel was Chris Hames, of Newton-on-Ouse, Yorkshire. 8 A TASTE OF FOODFEST15…

FoodFest15 is a year-long celebration of the finest food and drink in the north east of Scotland. Bringing together local food producers, restaurateurs, hoteliers and retailers, the packed programme highlights the wide variety of food and drink offerings available in Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire. Raspberry JAM From world class foodie events to celebrity chefs; from distinguished fine dining to grassroots craft brewers, FoodFest15 offers a fascinating glimpse into the delicious fare produced in the region. Encompassing a number of well-established events alongside newer food and drink gatherings throughout the region, the exciting FoodFest15 programme includes the likes of Taste of Grampian, in a year long June, the Scottish Traditional Boat Festival in July, and Deeside Food and Fiddle Fortnight, in October. Other events that will form part of the festivities include Feast North celebration East, which takes place in Inverurie across June, July and August, the Banchory Beer Festival, in August, and a number of Highland of all things games and gatherings that will take place across the region. Restaurants and hotels, in which at least 40 per cent of the produce f used is sourced locally, also form a major part of the festival’s focus. ood & drink As part of FoodFest15, the spotlight is being shone on local in Aberdeen Aberdeenshire producers in the area: everyone knows about Aberdeen Angus beef, but how many have discovered the brilliant craft beers, bespoke chocolates, and delicious cheeses that make up just part of the FoodFest15 FoodFestFifteen FoodFest15 incredible menu available in Aberdeen City and Shire? FoodFest15 coincides with Scotland’s Year of Food and Drink. Sign up to our newsletter for more information and For participating partners see advert, right. the chance to win a meal for 2 at www.foodfest15.com

For more information on FoodFest15, and all the region’s food and FoodFest15 is a partnership between Aberdeenshire Council, Banshire Coast Tourism Partnership, Aberdeenshire Tourism Partnership, Visit Royal drink offerings, visit www.foodfest15.com or follow the festival on Deeside, Aberdeen City and Shire Hotels Association, Scottish Enterprise, /foodfestfifteen and @foodfest15. Aberdeen & Grampian Chamber of Commerce, and VisitAberdeen. Looking to start

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IT Franchises Available If you like the idea of running your own IT Support business without having to become an IT genius, come and talk to us at Pisys.net. We offer a fully supported franchise opportunity where on average over 85% of support enquiries are handled by our UK help-desk team. From comprehensive training and promotional material to management software and specialist equipment, we’ve got it covered. Call John or Steve on 01792 464 748 or e-mail [email protected] PEERLESS QUALITY AT Proactive Innovative CLEETHORPES Focused An iconic pier, in Lincolnshire, is set to enjoy a glamorous new lease of life, after it was leased two years ago, Global Recruitment & and subsequently bought, by local business interests keen to protect it from falling into further disrepair. Now Headhunting Solutions work is underway on a complete refurbishment of The Specialising in Pier, Cleethorpes, following months of planning and preparation. Upstream Oil & Gas The Pier is planned to reopen in August with a new-look tearoom, a traditional pub, a restaurant with panoramic views out to sea, and a large multi-functional space Call us +44 (0)1962 353144 that will house an events centre hosting conferences, Email us exhibitions and a variety of live entertainment. [email protected] Managing Director Simon Huxford said: “We believe that Visit us online www.thorolddewling.com we are going to deliver a venue that the area is proud of as well as one that supports the local community. The Pier will replace the gap left in the entertainment market by the closure of the Winter Gardens; our aim is for The Pier to be a successful part of the regeneration of Cleethorpes, to aid increased visitors to the town and support local businesses.” TV chef and cookery school founder, Nigel Smith, has been appointed Executive Chef at the venue, having learned his craft in some of the country’s leading establishments, including The Savoy London, Chester 10 Grosvenor and Royal Ascot. of its opening after it was first built at a cost of £8,000. On Nigel’s appointment, Simon Huxford said: “Securing Nigel to help us achieve the quality that we are striving to achieve is a real coup for us. We look forward to learning from his vast experience and are excited about the opportunity that this presents for us to give staff access to the highest standards of training. Having Nigel on board provides real confidence in what we will be able to offer when we open our doors in Summer and gives local people an idea of what they can expect from 1873 at The Pier, Cleethorpes.” Smith will bring a range of new opportunities to the seaside town, including an innovative tea room offering that focuses on health and freshness, supported by great service. “We truly believe that the training and skillsets that we will provide to our staff will equip them to work in any eating establishment in the world,” said Simon Huxford. “We are providing real long- term career opportunities.” Nigel Smith added: “It’s a Chef’s dream to have an incredible opportunity like the one presented Smith, who worked alongside Albert Roux by The Pier, combining amazing food and at Guineas Restaurant and won the coveted location. Cleethorpes is a great destination and Restaurant of the Year as Executive Chef at has strong links for sourcing amazing food and Churchills Restaurant, is excited about bringing ingredients, while supporting my passion for local his good quality, healthy cuisine to North East produce. Lincolnshire. “We are offering people the chance to dine in a The Pier’s location, with an abundance of fresh unique, iconic building with great views and enjoy ingredients on the doorstep, were a major part high quality food at real world prices.” of Nigel’s decision to take up the role at the www.thepiercleethorpes.co.uk landmark’s 1873 restaurant, with its dramatic sea views. The restaurant was named in a local, Cleethorpes is 16 miles from Humberside Airport, EXCITED public competition and “1873” marks the year from where Eastern Airways flies to Aberdeen. Nigel Smith 12

TRAVEL soil, protect theinhabitants from radiation. are linked togetherandbehindtheseinflatable habitats,covered with martian Impression ofthefuture outposton Mars:solarpanelsgeneratepower; pods the women on the shortlist… the on women the of two to talks Greenwood Lynne to establish on Mars. life from around the world, keen all hopefuls 202,586 attracted Mars The offer of aone-way ticket to Image: Bryan Versteeg andMarsOne

After three rounds of an ongoing selection process, the six lab technician; and Clare Weedon, 27, a systems integration billion-dollar Mars One mission has reduced the numbers to 100, manager at Virgin Media. 50 men and 50 women. Among them are five Britons. Dr Maggie Lieu’s biology teacher suggested she might be the A final selection of 40 candidates, who will undergo ten years person to invent a pink astronaut’s suit – a nod to her love of both training for the 140 million mile journey, will feature in a reality TV all things space and the colour. Her friends made fun of her programme. The privately-funded plan is for them to leave Earth in ambition to be an astronaut. 2026, six years after the first planned unmanned mission, to live and die on Mars. They will be joined by subsequent crews who will “Now they’re all saying they can not believe they used to laugh at depart every 26 months. me,” says Maggie, who loved science from her schooldays in Coventry, where she grew up with her parents and two younger They will face a gruelling seven-month journey to establish human brothers. life on the planet, where temperatures fall to as low as -62°C and the dangers include dehydration, starvation and suffocation. “Of course I will miss my family and friends, but we will be able to Training will include time in the desert and the Arctic. communicate via the internet,” she says. “It will be fascinating to live with like-minded people, who are intelligent about space and The five Britons are Dr Maggie Lieu, 25, an astrophysics PhD to establish a community. We will have the Mars equivalent of student at Birmingham University, who says she would like to be Adam and Eve and I could become the first person to have a baby the first person to have a baby on Mars; Hannah Earnshaw, 23, a there – a Martian. Durham University astronomy PhD student; Ryan McDonald, 21, a Masters physics student at Oxford University; Alison Rigby, 35, a ”The first couple of years will be difficult – there are no washing >> “I COULD BECOME THE FIRST PERSON TO HAVE A BABY THERE – A Monica Alcazar-Duarte MARTIAN” MAGGIE LIEU

“THE OPPORTUNITY IS QUITE MIND-BLOWING” HANNAH EARNSHAW

machines there! – but we will slowly establish new ways of doing things. The lifestyle will be very different, but it will be so exciting, seeing how a society can evolve from nothing – what kind of political system is created.”

Although once Maggie knew of the Dutch-backed project, she says she was certain she wanted to apply, she nevertheless left it until the day before the deadline to submit her details. “When I sent it off, I didn’t think I had a chance. It’s like buying a Lottery ticket – you never expect to win.”

Hannah Earnshaw also left it late: “I had a gut feeling it was something I wanted to do but I spent a lot of time thinking about the implications,” she says. “I thought I had what it takes and it’s nice to know that so far I must have made a fairly accurate judgment of myself.”

The first selection process reduced the candidates to 1,000. “That Mars One 2020 lander really was the big ‘wow’ for me, it felt like it was really happening,” she says.

Hannah, who was born in Birmingham, but moved with her family to Fort William when she was ten, says space travel has been a dream for a very long time and a NASA-affiliated summer camp in Edinburgh in her penultimate year at school only strengthened her ambition.

“I thought if I was lucky I might see humans going to Mars in my lifetime,” she says. “The opportunity to be one of the crew is quite mind-blowing. I’m now a conversation-starter at parties!”

Hannah knows the early years will be the hardest, when problems that arise for the first time will have to be tackled by the smallest number of people.

“We will be working towards a self-sustaining settlement, growing our own food, generating oxygen, starting to manufacture, so we can make solar panels.”

And if the two women don’t make the final cut? Both say they would still want to work in space exploration – for Maggie, either with NASA or the European Space Agency, and for Hannah too, a role in the space industry in some capacity, possibly via the media or communications avenue.

14 www.mars-one.com Mars One is creating several Earth based simulation outposts for training, technology try-outs and evaluation. Both on Mars and Earth, the Mars One outpost will become the epicentre for the mission. On Earth it will provide evaluation and training and on Mars it will provide a safe home for the crew. The outpost design is based on six assembled transit modules and two additional inflatables making up living quarters, private areas, food production, life support systems, surface access, recreational areas, mission operations, life science and more. On Mars, the outpost will expand as more astronauts arrive, creating more living space and ever changing environments for the permanent settlement. Images: Bryan Versteeg and Mars One

An impression of how the interior of one of the inflatable sections of the outpost on Mars could be arranged. It includes private and shared living areas, storage, and a green house where the future astronauts will grow their own fresh food 16

Ray Tang/REX/Shutterstock INTERVIEW “ carving my path. own carving that I’manything…I’d to think like and perpetually topless hero. Turner’s solid swarthy, to Aidan foil romantic perfect the touching of flashes childlike she innocence, has provided urchin entrance, her volatile and those demeanour street screen-grabbing her With years. in produced television prestige thatprotagonists has drama so-called female memorable most the of one is Demelza Certainly path.” myown I’m carving that “I’d to like think grimace. apolite with says she anything,” new the as tagged to be want don’t “I Knightley? Keira new the in, As stardom. serious of zone white-hot the into back her thrust again once has Poldark, of heroine flame-haired strong-willed the Demelza, as role Her telly. the off to, know, you Demelza next sitting were they that arrival, her of seconds within clocking, after silence, muted into stunned are table adjacent the backkicking in café, her local in London. The couple at today, 22-year-old the more,” says any listen don’t simply I But star!’ abig such to be you’re ‘Oh going to you, say “People journey. asobering apparently, been, has It the Giant Slayer. Jack disaster, box-office million $200 the in role leading a 2013, in then, landed and bit-parts, some did She flopped. Angus happen. didn’t It Knightley”. Keira new “the to become, set was she that Iwrote mega-stardom, inevitable and, predicting Snogging, Perfect and Thongs Angus comedy tween the in friend best dazzling the Jas, played just 16. had She just was she her interviewed Ifirst When attending Beverley High School. girl, ayoung as Riding East to the moved and London in born was Poldark, handsome the marries who waif glamorous the Demelza, plays who Tomlinson, Eleanor INTERVIEW: ELEANOR TOMLINSONINTERVIEW: ELEANOR a second time… her for up with caught Maher Kevin beckoning. fame greater Beverley, finds Hull, near up in grew who ayoung actress commissioned, of asecondahead already series acliffhanger BBC’s the with With ending Poldark, hugely watched drama, period I don’t want to the new be as tagged Poldark in the BBC TV series TV BBC the in Poldark as Turner Aidan and Demelza as Tomlinson her hair in “a messy, greasy horrible bun”. horrible “a messy, in greasy hair her and coat brown brother’s her clothes, baggy make-up, no with down role”, dressed she “the was Demelza that knowing but, Elizabeth for to go in called been had – she place first the in Demelza of role the for audition 2014, early in to idea, her was it indeed, and, blonde), naturally is (Tomlinson redhead afiery as Demelza to play ambitious”, “fiercely described) and that it was her idea (self is she that Ilearn instance, for seconds, Within wonderfully steely. she’s But also eyes. brushstroke into lifting cheekbones delicatelycourse, beautiful, with those high pronounced of is, she sleeve, her beneath from out poking Alleycats) movie new her for (fake, tattoo rose red agiant with top, and black and jeans skinny in black, in all Dressed mind. own her knows and direct, and strong is Tomlinson Aidan.” for even tiring, bit alittle it’s getting Because storylines. the about talking start will people and slightly, down die will it around hysteria the that I’m hoping “But says. she show,” the about talking are people that it’s great and it, at hard very works he body, and he’s agreat got “Look, general. in body his and chest, Turner’s namely, room, the in elephant the to address we have conversation into further aminute we go Before ” Elizabeth (Heida Reed). (Heida Elizabeth his former fiancée, the snooty snooty the fiancée, former his and (Tomlinson) Demelza wench serving feisty his (Turner), Poldark Ross officer Army British former theabout love triangle between really is but hardship, economic and tin-mining of acontext boasts and Cornwall 18th-century late in set is Poldark aware, yet aren’t who people six or five the for And >>

ELEANOR TOMLINSON: AIDAN TURNER, NUDITY AND ALLEYCATS

She was called back twice for subsequent auditions and, horses since she was two years old, she’s a better rider than finally, for the all-important “chemistry test” with Turner. “It was Turner (“although I don’t think he’d admit it”), and in some of obvious from the beginning that Aidan and I could work well the scenes in which they’re “riding double” it is Tomlinson, not together,” she says, when addressing the issue of the screen Turner, who is controlling the horse. sizzle between the pair. “I think, at that chemistry test, there was definitely a sense in the room, where you knew that the While on the prospect of the show’s Cornish locations people watching us liked what they were seeing. Yes. There (Charlestown Harbour, Penwith and Padstow) she says that was a definite energy.” she’d never once visited Cornwall during a childhood in Yorkshire that was defined by the singing of her mother Judith And despite the media frenzy that Turner’s body inspired, she and the acting of her father, Malcolm (aka Bruce Braines, in notes that, “It’s nice to see a man doing it, as opposed to the Emmerdale). Inherently shy, she says that she picked up the women, who seem to have to go full frontal all the time now.” acting bug while sitting on the lap of Bernie Nolan on the set of The Bill (one of her father’s regular gigs). “She said, ‘So, do you It leads her swiftly on to an impassioned disquisition on want to be an actress?’ And I just thought, ‘Yes! This is gratuitous female nudity in contemporary TV at the moment amazing!’.” (she doesn’t name Game of Thrones or The Tudors but I feel that they’re in the air), during which she announces: “I don’t do From 11 she was pinging in and out of TV and movies, playing nudity, I don’t feel the need to do it. In fact it’s sexier if you flashback roles in both the TV drama Falling and the Edward don’t do nudity. Especially nowadays when it’s become all that Norton thriller The Illusionist. There is talk of her being badly sells a series. Poldark has proven that you don’t need nudity to bullied by her jealous Yorkshire classmates, but she dismisses convey a sexual relationship. It can be something as simple as that now as tabloid exaggeration. “Yes, there was a certain the hair on the back of my neck moving as he’s kissing me. It’s amount of bullying, but not to the extent that has been the tiny things that get you hot under the collar.” reported.”

At which point, while suppressing a Sid James-style “Phwoar”, She is forthright about the next phase of her career, I ask about her boyfriend (he works in the industry, but is not an determined, it would seem, not to repeat past mistakes. She actor), and how he feels about competing with Ross bulgy- would like to do a Knightley-style fragrance campaign, for boobs (Turner, for the record has been dating the Irish actress instance, “because it’s a great way of keeping people aware of Sarah Greene for three years). you, so that you’re not forgotten”.

“I think it’s hard. And it’s hard for anyone who dates an actor,” She’s doing the new movie Alleycats, in which she plays a she says. “It’s something that comes with the territory, and I street-smart inked-up London bicycle courier, in order to don’t envy anyone who dates an actor. And what’s even worse demonstrate her range and versatility. While she has no interest here is the chemistry that the characters have. That love story whatsoever in the sex and drugs sidelines of traditional is so much harder to watch than any single love scene. But it’s celebrity excess, because, “I’m so ambitious, and I have a not a question of me having to ‘explain’ to him that it’s only dream, and taking cocaine and smoking isn’t going to get me chemistry. He’s immensely supportive, and we trust each other, there”. and I’m honest about everything. There are no nasty surprises for him. He doesn’t watch the show and go, ‘What? You didn’t As for Poldark, she’s already signed on for three more series. tell me about that!’.” There are, after all, ten more books left to adapt (they used the first two for this series), and lots more places for Demelza to go We go through the check-list of other Poldark hot topics. She (a romantic fling in book seven being key). does a lot of on-screen chores, for instance (sweeping, scrubbing, chopping apples, kneading dough, gutting fish and So, to sum up, she has, you know, basically, made it now, scything), although I’m not entirely convinced that she’s always finally. No? She gasps at the very thought. “Everyone is talking putting her back into them. “My family make fun of me about about Poldark now,” she says. “Everyone is loving it. And that’s the sweeping,” she concedes. “Because I’m always sweeping great. But I’m not getting my hopes up at all. I’ve done a job on to my feet. And apparently you sweep to the side.” that’s been received well, and that’s the biggest compliment.”

On horse-riding she notes that, as someone who’s been on Kevin Maher / The Times / The Interview People

“ I DON’T DO NUDITY, I DON’T FEEL THE NEED TO DO IT. IN FACT IT’S SEXIER IF YOU DON’T DO NUDITY. ESPECIALLY NOWADAYS WHEN IT’S BECOME ALL THAT SELLS A SERIES. POLDARK HAS PROVEN THAT YOU DON’T NEED NUDITY TO CONVEY A SEXUAL RELATIONSHIP.”

18 GET AWAY FROM IT ALL “We are a charity, which gives new life to castles, forts, follies, towers and cottages.” SPECIAL FEATURE That is the simple mantra of the Landmark Trust, which celebrates its golden anniversary this year…

It’s a remarkably simple concept: in a former pigsty, at Robin Hood’s Bay, 23 properties on Lundy Island, in the charitable donations are used to rescue Yorkshire; a House of Correction, in Bristol Channel, ranging from the bright worthy buildings at risk, and these Lincolnshire; or elaborate Victorian water blue corrugated iron old schoolhouse, to are then maintained by the revenue towers in Norfolk and Suffolk. wings in the old castle. derived from letting them to discerning There is an understated rare heather- In fifty years, the Landmark Trust claims holidaymakers. thatched cottage near the Roman fort to have rescued almost 200 buildings These are no ordinary holiday lets – they of Vindolanda, Northumberland; Iron that would have otherwise been lost. range from the humble, if quirky, to the Bridge House, beside the famous bridge Now as part of its golden anniversary utterly grandiose. And, geographically, of the same name; or Luttrell’s Tower, a celebrations, the Trust has you’ll find them throughout the UK, but remarkable folly overlooking the Solent, commissioned an installation by the also as far afield as Italy. near Southampton. celebrated sculptor, Antony Gormley, You could tell your friends you’re staying For the ultimate escape, the Trust offers comprising five life-size standing pieces,

Antony Gormley’s LAND sculpture at Martello Tower, Aldeburgh. The building stands on the beach and was built between 1808 and 1812. It is the most northerly of a chain of defensive towers built along the south and east coasts of England in response to the threat of invasion by Napoleon. 19 cast in iron and installed at five spectacular Antony Gormley said: “I am excited about Landmark sites selected by the artist. making sculpture that stands in the wind, the rain and snow, day and night. The sculptures Each sculpture has been specially will be like standing stones: markers in space designed and created for each building and time, linking with specific places and and its surroundings. All five locations are their histories; catalysts for reflection. connected by water – four stand sentinel on the coast and the fifth is on the South “LAND invites us to think about our identity Stratford Canal and anchors the entire and the mindset of a nation surrounded by installation. water, and how that affects the way we make our choices. Water both divides us from and The LAND sculptures are at Martello connects us to the rest of the world.” Tower, Aldeburgh, Suffolk; Clavell Tower, Kimmeridge Bay, Dorset; Saddell Bay, Mull of The Trust continues: “LAND shares many of Kintyre; Lengthsman’s Cottage, Lowsonford, the themes found in Landmark’s work: an Warwickshire; and Lundy Island. engagement with landscape and the habitats we create, and how at a human level we “The five life-size vertical body forms add resonate with them. Landmark’s buildings a point of focus to each location,” says are often in remote locations, some of the the Trust. “Each is conceived in relation buildings – notably towers and follies – were to its site, encouraging visitors to engage intentionally built to stand apart, some are with elemental conditions and the different positioned close to the coastline, making qualities of the North Sea, the English them a landmark or point from which to look Channel, the Kilbrannan Sound, and the out at the world.” Bristol Channel and the open horizon between sea and sky. Caroline Stanford, Historian & Head of Engagement, the Landmark Trust, said: “The fifth location is a quiet site in a “For our 50th anniversary, we wanted to Warwickshire village, where the sculpture do something that everyone can enjoy, not stands looking into the depths of the only for those who stay in our buildings man-made lock, in contrast to the wild, but the local communities in whose ruggedness of the coastal sites. landscape the local buildings fit. We are

Clockwise from top: Lengthsman’s Cottage; Appleton Water Tower; Llwyn Celyn; The Pigsty, Robin Hood’s Bay; Millcombe House, Lundy Island delighted that one of the greatest artists rescue of two more historic buildings. of our generation, Antony Gormley, has Belmont, a Grade II* Listed seaside villa, in agreed to collaborate with us on LAND, an Lyme Regis, will open for groups of eight. It inspirational statement and celebration of was owned by the pioneering 18th century the Landmark Trust at 50.” businesswoman, Eleanor Coade, who developed Coade stone, used extensively Clavell Tower, Kimmeridge Bay, was built in in buildings of the Regency period. It was 1830 by the Rev John Richards Clavell as an latterly owned by the novelist, John Fowles, observatory and folly, and is familiar to those who completed The French Lieutenant’s walking the South West Coastal Path. Its Woman here. location has captivated many, including writ- ers, such as Thomas Hardy and PD James. Also next year, St Edward’s Presbytery, a Grade I listed piece of Gothic Revival by Saddell Bay, on the east coast of the Mull Augustus Pugin, who designed the interior of of Kintyre, looks out across the Kilbrannan the Palace of Westminster, is set to open its Sound to the Isle of Arran. Landmark first doors in Ramsgate, having been on Historic acquired the 16th-century castle in 1975 England’s Buildings at Risk register and and the remainder of the Saddell Estate and almost derelict. buildings by 1984. The Trust is also launching an urgent Lengthsman’s Cottage, Lowsonford, dates huge appeal to rescue Llwyn Celyn, an from the early 19th century and was built for exceptional 15th century house, in the the lengthsman, who maintained the lock Black Mountains. Visited this summer by and adjacent stretch of canal. With its barrel the Landmark Trust’s Patron, HRH The roof, it is a rare survivor of its type. Prince of Wales, the house is in a major Lundy Island is a place of wide spaces and state of disrepair and has been supported big skies. Its mild climate has encouraged by scaffolding for the last decade. It is rich and diverse flora and fauna, helped by recognised as one of the most remarkable of an absence of roads, cars and pollution. all surviving late-medieval Welsh houses and Landmark administers and maintains Lundy initial exploratory work has uncovered many and the location for the LAND installation is fascinating aspects like the original floor plan near to the Devil’s Limekiln. and medieval joinery. Next year, Landmark will complete the www.landmarktrust.org.uk

21 An audience with the Plantagenets greets visitors at National Civil War Centre the Richard III Visitor Centre Three new museums in the Midlands explore aspects of our history – two from a few hundred years ago and one very much more recent but dedicated to a subject every bit as important to the evolution of the nation…

Some of the props, sets and costumes from the Imitation Game displayed in the Victorian country house at Bletchley Park NATIONAL CIVIL WAR CENTRE The country’s first National Civil War Centre is a reminder of the brutal clash between Royalists and Roundheads that ended with the execution of King Charles I and MUSEUMS ultimately resulted in today’s Parliamentary system. Lynne Greenwood went to see it…

The Nottinghamshire market town of Newark, held by the Royalists in Britain’s deadliest conflict, which lasted from 1642 to 1651, has spent 18 months and £6m converting the Grade II* listed Old Magnus Building into the UK’s first such centre – and creating a free reality town trail app bringing to life stories of the War. More than 500 people attended the red carpet launch of the app, which triggers images at key locations, ahead of the centre’s Bank Holiday opening in May. Lavishly-shot costumed scenes, using professional actors, include Charles quarrelling with his lieutenant, Prince Rupert, and a servant girl moaning about meagre rations. According to Centre Manager Michael The Civil War gallery Constantine, the aim is to divide the at the museum

information into three strands – one third Sam Kirby explaining why the Civil War happened, suffering of ordinary people is detailed in The Centre, funded with £3.5m from the one third dedicated to what took place in period documents discovered by the Heritage Lottery, £2m from Newark and Newark, and the final third to the legacy local council in cardboard boxes. Sherwood District Council and £0.5m of the Civil War. from Nottinghamshire County Council, “It is a story that is not really told in its Stuart Jennings, a Civil War expert from includes the inevitable shop, where a entirety anywhere else,” he says. “Some Warwick University, says: “I could see Charles l chopping board provides a places, like Worcester, tell a local story we had something unique. On individual touch a black humour. but we are trying to show that what sheets of paper were accounts, petitions Unusually it does not have a café – good happened in Newark is a good example and bills, the kind of things generated by news for the 26 cafes and tea rooms in of what was happening in many other everyday life in 1640s Newark.” the town. Stray’s on Middlegate – places.” They include records of poor relief, opened in 2003 by brother and sister But Newark, at a vital crossroads of the detailing how money was raised and Mat and Liz Short, is definitely worth a Great North Road and the Fosse Way who received it, a petition from a father visit – an eatery combined with a and an important crossing point over the of seven children whose house was bookshop, which also holds monthly River Trent, was particularly significant blown up by cannon fire, and receipts jazz nights. as a Royalist stronghold, and was for food and medicine for plague victims. www.nationalcivilwarcentre.com subjected to three separate sieges. A mini cinema shows six specially Eastern Airways flies to East Midlands The final one, which ended in May 1646, commissioned films and a further 28 from Aberdeen. saw more than 16,000 troops seal off films, less than one minute each, appear the town and a rare snapshot of the on the Trail via the app.

MUSEUM EXHIBITS L-R: Civil War siege piece minted in Newark just before or during the 3rd siege (Nov 1645 - May 1646). OBS comes from the Latin for besieged. “Unite” coin minted in the 1620s to mark the union of the crowns of England and Scotland. Found in 2007 this beautiful Anglo Saxon gold cross set with four cabouchon garnets dates to the 7th century. 23 David Cawley visits the new museum at Bletchley Park, dedicated to the people who cracked the Germans’ Enigma code –and whose story was told in the recent film, The Imitation Game – and the new visitor centre in Leicester, dedicated to the king who was found under a car park…

team of tweedy, pioneering mavericks he Now, 70 years on and following an £8 BLETCHLEY PARK adopted an earlier Polish invention known million investment, the faithfully restored as a “bombe” to work out the Enigma’s Bletchley Park museum and heritage site Churchill referred to them as “the geese that vast number of settings and crack the exhibits the technology developed here laid the golden eggs and never cackled”. encrypted messages. and recreates the rudimentary nature of General Eisenhower said: “It has saved working conditions. Some 250,000 thousands of British and American lives and, By 1944 there were some 8,500 people visitors came through the gates last year in no small way, contributed to the speed with working at the centre, 75 per cent of and the release of the The Imitation which the enemy was routed…” More recently them Wrens. It was code-breaking on a Game is expected to bring even more engineers at Google, McAfee and Microsoft new industrial scale and far from this year. have all recognised and paid tribute to its glamorous. The work was laborious and importance. profoundly stressful – a day-to-day grind Walking through huts 3, 6 and 8, tableaux of brutal shift patterns unlocking a daily of bleak, dimly-lit offices are brought to I’m in a small corner of Buckinghamshire on a intake of 2-3,000 cyphered messages. life by wall-projected images, recorded crisp spring morning, walking in the shadows Pressures were intense and staff dropout murmurings of staff and the clacking of of some of Britain’s greatest 20th-century rates high, prompting Denniston to order Imperial typewriters. Bakelite phones, intellects. that some of the estate be left for beige files and half-full ashtrays lie strewn Back in 1938 the Government Code and recreation – a place for his personnel to across desks, evocatively capturing a Cypher School (GC & CS), along with MI6, was breathe, innovate and think. moment in Bletchley Park’s remarkable in need of a covert location for large-scale history. All that’s missing is the heady A concert hall, a 24/7 canteen, health military Intelligence gathering. Bletchley Park aroma of stress and the dense fug of pipe facilities, billiard rooms and chess club country house and its 65-acre estate proved and untipped cigarette smoke. (naturally) were also provided to help to be perfect and was secretly purchased for ease tensions. Recorded bygone soundscapes follow £6,000. GC & CS’s primary objective was to intercept and crack enemy codes and ciphers, most The park entrance is about 100 yards famously those created by the German from Bletchley railway station, which Enigma machine. Resembling an old- has direct rail services from fashioned typewriter, this portable 1930s hardware offered 59 million million million Birmingham International Airport. An different combination settings for encrypting exhibition dedicated to the making of secret messages from the German military The Imitation Game, featuring sets, and secret service. props and costumes is on display in the Victorian manor house until In charge of operations was Commander November1. www.bletchleypark.org.uk Alexander Denniston, who commandeered a couple of hundred “men of the professor Eastern Airways flies to Birmingham

Images David Cawley / Bletchley Park archive type”, including Cambridge cryptographer and from Newcastle. 24 mathematician Alan Turing. Along with his KING RICHARD III VISITOR CENTRE

Dynasty, Death and Discovery at the new Richard III Visitor Centre, in Leicester, tells the intriguing tale of this often maligned, sometimes praised king’s life, and the remarkable story of how his remains were unearthed. Our audience with royalty begins in the Throne Room, where we’re greeted by a series of projected Plantagenet characters Mock CT scanner and 3D offering a scene-by-scene summary of printout of Richard’s skeleton Richard III’s life from birth to gruesome death at the Battle of Bosworth, in 1485. Illustrating some of the science behind this Introductions over and it’s on to a dimly-lit conclusion, a theatrical display featuring a 3D room where projections, artefacts and skeleton printout is laid out on a mock CT concise information boards tell the Bosworth scanner clearly displaying the left-curving battlefield story; the likely circumstances of scoliosis and the fatal battlefield trauma of the King’s demise; and his body’s Richards’s hacked-at skull. ignominious journey to Leicester. Before exiting through the ubiquitous gift The king was plagued by controversy during shop there’s one last thing to see. Back on his life and, more especially, after his death. ground level, or more precisely, beneath it, The Discovery area explores the many visitors are invited to a corner annexe built polarised depictions of Richard through over that now famous social services car history, including the Shakespearean Tudor park. There, beneath a glass floor, is the hatchet job of that “foule hunch-backe’d rough-hewn hole where the body of the last L-R: Stephen Kettle’s statue of Alan toade”. His responsibility for the murder of his Plantagenet king was unceremoniously Turing made from stacked slivers of young nephews (those “princes in the tower”) dumped in 1485. is also delved-into. Did he do it? The centre Welsh slate. Wrens working in Hut 6. This was an ill-fitting end in every respect, One of the Enigma machines captured leaves the question open. As Matthew and a projected image of his skeleton by the allies. Constantine, of Leicester City Council, illuminates the red earth, showing where the observes: “We have tried to balance the cramped contorted body lay for 527 years. me outside to the manicured lawns many different views of researchers and Following a more formal and fitting tribute in and mature trees surrounding the historians, to create an exciting and March, his remains are now finally reinterred estate’s centrepiece lake, preserved compelling story.” in Leicester Cathedral, just a minute’s stroll by Denniston for his staff. Hidden Asked about the accusations of royal from the visitor centre. speakers intermittently broadcast nepoticide, Excavation Project Director, Dr the whir and bells of passing Despite its long, often fascinating history, Richard Buckley, says: “My position is that I bicycles, the throb of dispatch Leicester barely registers on the tourist radar. sit firmly on the fence… What I will say is that motorbikes and the distant sound of With Richard III making global front-page Richard was probably no better and no a steam train – fleeting echoes of news and a new £4.5m marquee visitor worse than any other late medieval king.” Bletchley’s profound past. attraction, the city can now surely look The story continues with the archaeological forward to a tourism bonanza. Remarkably, despite the scale of dig and the sciences involved in confirming operations, secrecy was maintained the mortal remains are indeed those of The King Richard III Visitor Centre is open throughout the war, with neither Richard III. We learn that – through bone and daily. Advance booking is recommended. Bletchley locals nor the Germans DNA analysis, carbon dating, genealogy, Allow about 90 minutes for your visit. having any idea what was going on matching wounds to weapons and facial www.kriii.com • www.visitleicester.info behind the stately brick walls. Staff reconstruction – the remains found just below couldn’t share successes beyond Eastern Airways flies to East Midlands where we now stand are “beyond reasonable the park gates and a signature on from Aberdeen

doubt” those of Richard III. III Visitors Centre Images courtesy of Richard the Official Secrets Act meant nothing of their vital work could be revealed for another 30 years after the war. Pitting their wits against the enemy in this corner of Middle England was selfless work. “Britain’s best-kept secret” – a spurious, oft brandished term used by today’s tourism PR gurus. In the case of Bletchley Park, the truth is certainly literal.

The Discovery area explores Richard’s reputation as well as the tools and science used to unearth him and confirm his identity 26 newcastlegateshead.com

EXPLORATION EXPRESS NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE NEWCASTLE REASONS TO BE CHEERFUL… REASONS the colourful high rise ofthe the colourful academic now is site Breweries Newcastle former the of much centre: city the of periphery havechanges taken place around the Taking a step back, the most obvious even. years months, recent of course the over changed have may it how on to reflect pausing ever without reasons specific for time to time from city the into to head easy is it so and Newcastle from far not I live at least. indifference if not contempt, then occasional breeding, of habit anasty has Familiarity visits his home town and finds it as vibrant as ever as vibrant it as home finds and his town visits Abbott Stan headlines recently as the beneficiary of of headlines as recently the beneficiary the in facility research genetics aworld-leading of face public the is This Life). for Centre (formerly Centre wascurtain-raiser the Life Science own Our by Metro. ride ashort are above the all Airport Newcastle From state of makeover. aconstant in to be seems Jesmond despite opposition); and the suburb of Station imaginatively (itself rejuvenated created a new focus between Central has offices, and hotels its with Quarter, Central; the Stephenson so-called and quarter, technological Science Metro ticket. a of presentation on here entry free get space?”. in Children YOU survive “Could question: the answer will visitors when Week, Space World in Autumn this together come way, themes their a in and, centre the of core genetics the to complement agreat are planetarium and ride 4Dmotion The Newcastle. in here or Aberdeen, London, in seen whether inspiration, an always – Year the of exhibition Photographer Wildlife of end tail the We caught research. embryo to changes regulations on important A more recent city centre arrival is BALTIC MasterChef: the Professionals finalist, Dave enjoyed recent expansion and renovation, 39, the Newcastle child of the main BALTIC Coulson. including the addition of a fourth screen at centre for contemporary art, on Gateshead this hugely popular art-house venue. Here Set back from the busy coast road on what Quays. BALTIC 39 is a real Tardis of a we saw Force Majeure, an interesting is now a quiet cul-de-sac, we dined al venue, entered via an understated doorway Swedish film about a father’s unexpected fresco in uplifting spring sunshine. This was on the narrow lane that is High Bridge, just reaction when an avalanche threatens his fine dining at sensible prices of a kind you off Bigg Market. family on a skiing trip. Catch it if you can! simply don’t expect at lunchtime. The The exhibition space is unexpectedly and amuse-bouche were divine, the service Of course, you can only scratch the surface almost disarmingly large: we were there to diligient, and the contemporary interior of a place in just a day, so I’ll just make see an exhibition recalling the glory days of decor delightful. quick mention of some of my other city the art of the LP cover, with a commentary favourites: early July should see the opening by no less a worthy than Harry Pearson, I mentioned that Jesmond seems to be in a of the Black Gate after a £1m renovation. Eastern Airways Magazine columnist. We near-constant state of rejuvenation. This is one of two remaining parts of the spent far longer than planned, so this Tardis Jesmond is unlike other suburbs I can think “new” castle that gives the city its name and may have distorted space, but not time. of in provincial cities. It is the preserve of it promises to provide an exciting new students and young professionals, as well “gateway”, as they say, to “old Newcastle”. I like the city centre’s back lanes, which as boasting some extremely well-healed conceal many surprises, such as Dabbawal, avenues. All combine to ensure an I’m also a big fan of the Castle Keep itself on High Bridge (and also now in Jesmond), interesting retail scene that spans fine and can never understand why more people don’t make the climb to its lofty roof to specialising in Indian street food, so you can antiques, fine dining, fine delis, several admire the view across the river and the enjoy a range of dishes, tapas-style. Also hotels and bars and other diversions, such city. falling into the “surprising” category are the as city spas. And all this just a mile from the businesses that have sprung up in railway city centre. Pop along Westgate Road to step back in arches, many in the wake of the station time at the extraordinary library of the Lit & We visited City Retreat, on Osborne Road, renovation. We’ve mentioned in these pages Phil (Tyneside Literary and Philosophical and enjoyed winding down with a back previously the wonderful Herb Garden Society). restaurant, on Westgate Road, where the massage delivered with the utmost skill. said herbs and salads are grown on the Highly recommended for removing the The city’s Grainger Market is also enjoying a premises in special globes and all the food stress of high-powered living. new lease of life, with some wonderful specialist food and other outlets; do visit La is cooked in pizza ovens. Now a mention for The only thing Jesmond seems to lack is a its near neighbour, the Sausage Emporium, Petite Crêperie for an authentic taste of cinema (the one I remember from childhood France. which “does what is says on the tin” but gave way some years ago to the relentless with style and great service. march of apartmentland), but then it’s only Take the electric Quaylink bus to the A word too about Rasa, symbolic of the three Metro stops from West Jesmond to Ouseburn Valley, for artists’ workshops, move upmarket of the Quayside area, and the Tyneside Cinema, which too has indie cinema and Seven Stories, the national the only outlet of this Indian restaurant centre for the children’s book. Nearby is brand, dedicated to the cuisine of Kerala, Hoults Yard, once the vast Mallings pottery and now home to a diverse range of creative that can be found outside London. businesses. The current enthusiasm for designer gins For all the stories of northern decline in and cocktails has spawned many new and recent years, I continue to see plenty of reinvented city centre venues, with the reasons to be cheerful in the city of my Botanist, in the itself reinvented Monument birth! Mall above Jamie Oliver’s, seemingly the place to be seen. www.newcastlegateshead.com On this day, however, our mission was a Eastern Airways flies to Newcastle from rather overdue visit to Peace and Loaf, the Stavanger, Aberdeen, Birmingham and highly acclaimed Jesmond venue of Cardiff.

TOP Black Gate ABOVE Life Science Centre BELOW Newcastle Quayside panorama From source to saucepan – Olly Davy discovers hand-dived scallops in FOOD AND DRINK Hebridean waters…

28 Gripping the handle tightly, I took a deep This bewitching wilderness is attracting to diners concerned about the journey breath, plunged the knife into the gap and increasing attention: there were 218,000 food takes from source to saucepan. prised open the creature’s shell. It lay visitors to the islands in 2012, up 27 per there, pulsing. I severed it at the base and cent on 2006; and in 2014 Lewis and “It’s not a gimmick,” explains Andy discarded the waste sack, saving the meat Harris (two parts of a single island, Taylor-Gerloch, the owner of SEAcroft, a for eating. although often described as if they are local B&B. “Guests read on the menu separate) was voted the fifth best island in ‘scallops hand-dived by Dave Smith’ and Outside the hut, gusts snatched at the the world in TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ they can actually go and meet the guy who fishing boats moored along the jetty and Choice Awards. caught them.” excited the water of Miavaig harbour. Dave Smith, the diver who only that morning had This year is Scotland’s Year of Food and Originally from Manchester, Dave has plucked the animal I was dispatching from Drink and home-grown comestibles are made his home on the rugged Uig the chilly depths of Loch Roag, on the Isle being celebrated at events around the peninsula and his business, Hebridean of Lewis, laughed at my squeamishness. country. I enjoy salmon and whisky as Hand-Dived Scallops, is thriving as the much as anyone but I had come to the popularity of the archipelago grows. The “It hasn’t got a brain, if that makes you feel Western Isles on the hunt for something life of a scallop diver is not an easy one; better.” else – one of the tastiest treats in nature’s the weather here can be intimidating. larder and a creature whose shell is most Gales over 100mph are common, easily The Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles, cling recognised as the logo of one of the stripping tiles from roofs and sandblasting to the edge of Europe, 40 miles off the world’s largest oil companies; the scallop. windscreens to opacity. While on-line north-west mainland of Scotland and forecasting (Magic Seaweed is the service battered by winds ripping across the Scallops caught by divers rather than Dave uses) reduces the risk of getting Atlantic. The island chain is only 130 miles dredgers represent a tiny fraction of the caught in a storm, there are other long but packs a topographical punch market (roughly five per cent of the 17,000 challenges harder to combat. belying its size: eagle-patrolled mountains, tonnes landed in Scotland in 2013) but pristine mile-long beaches and more than they are prized for their size, flavour and, “In winter the days are short and the 6,000 lochs. above all, freshness – especially important currents in the loch are strong,” he says. “If

Sunset at Luskentyre Bay, Harris greed takes hold and you linger too long collecting those ‘£2 coins’ you can run out “WHEN YOU HAVE SUCH AN AMAZING PRODUCT, of air and get the bends by surfacing quickly, or, come up in the dark where your YOU HARDLY HAVE TO DO ANYTHING TO IT” boatman can’t see you. Getting into trouble is pretty easy.” By counting the rings on the shell, Dave estimated they were 12 years old, but they Luckily Dave enjoys a close relationship can live up to 20. They were so large I had with his “boatman”; she’s his wife, Julie. to cut them in half. Fried with bacon, their During the summer months they are kept soft texture and slight sweetness was busy with nine dives a week and a steady heavenly, and healthy too; low fat, protein- stream of customers, including caravanners rich and a good source of Vitamin B. passing through on trips from as far afield as Italy. Dave sells half his scallops from the Before being adopted by Shell, the scallop hut at Miavaig, where the price ranges from shell had a rich symbolic history. In £1.20 for a medium to £2.50 for an extra pre-Christian times the curves and ridges large, and the rest go to clients like Andy, at were said to represent the setting sun, or SEAcroft, markets such as Billingsgate in death, on the final journey towards the sea London, and, increasingly, high-end of darkness in the west. That evening, as I restaurants. ate my marine bounty on the edge of the Atlantic beneath a flaming sky, I felt very When a dredger’s bucket hits the seabed it much alive. scoops up whatever it finds, including mud Eastern Airways flies to Stornoway, on the and sand, which gets inside the shell of the Isle of Lewis, from Aberdeen, with scallop and taints the meat. The catch is connecting flights from throughout the UK then preserved on ice for several days until it reaches market. Some are “wet-packed” – a perfectly legal practice, which involves pumping the scallops full of salt solution to increase the weight.

That might be okay for bulk buyers but not for top chefs, whose cooking demands the finest ingredients. “When you have such an amazing product, you hardly have to do anything to it,” says Anton Piatrowski, patron chef at the Michelin-starred Treby Arms, in Devon, winner of Masterchef 2012, and a client of Dave Smith. “All hail the farmers and fishermen – without them the best chefs would be nothing.”

Back at Miavaig, the slaughter continued. Lingering nerve impulses caused the disembodied scallops to twitch disturbingly; the meat is actually the adductor muscle that the scallop uses for jet propulsion through the water. In 30 minutes I prepared six juicy specimens. Not impressive when you consider Julie can shuck one in 20 seconds. Scallops safely stashed, I drove the winding road to Harris across a bleakly beautiful landscape, mottled with scudding cloud shadows.

Anton’s favourite scallop recipe aims to “reflect the natural environment” and involves a sautéed scallop, a raw scallop, yuzu juice, kombu seaweed and a dash of seawater. Such finesse was beyond me while camped on the shores of Luskentyre Bay that evening, but that did not detract from the satisfaction of preparing the scallops I had shucked under Dave’s instruction.

RIGHT Dave Smith on his boat at Miavaig. 30 TOP Fishing boats, Miavaig WHERE TO STAY

The town house and country house – Stan Abbott visits two of the North of England’s best “country house” hotels and reflects on the appeal of this

special type of home from home >> 31 That we have country house hotels today is largely down to the success of the entrepreneurs who made good during the Industrial LINTHWAITE HOUSE Revolution and lavished a proportion of their accumulated wealth on The fickle weather of the fells was doing the hotel few favours on often exuberant celebrations of the period’s best architecture and our arrival just ahead of a busy Easter weekend. Mist clung to the interior design. surface of Windermere and turned what should have been a view Jesmond Dene House was never a rural retreat in the strictest to die for a rather dull grey. Well, it’s the Lake District and it can sense: it’s barely two miles from the centre of Newcastle. However, happen, so I chose to look for pleasing views less dependent on the Victorian industrialist, William George Armstrong, set about wide vistas and wandered up to the tarn and explored the cute converting the adjacent gorge of the Ouseburn, a tributary of gazebo, complete with imitation bird in cage, on its shore. This the Tyne, into an attractive wooded parkland with paths, bridges may be a national park, but nearby Windermere and Bowness and waterfalls, back in 1860. Prior to that, the original house was can be anything but tranquil on a holiday weekend. Linthwaite Georgian, designed for a local doctor in 1822 by John Dobson, House, however, stands aloof from all that. And most especially, who was responsible for many of Newcastle’s handsome streets. its tarn. However, little of that house remains. When it was bought in 1871 by The relaxation imperative is equally evident inside, with the hotel’s Captain Andrew Noble, a partner in Lord Armstrong’s shipbuilding pre-dinner “ultimate gin and tonic” served before a welcoming fire and armaments business, it was rapidly extended. on sumptuous settees. Noble commissioned the Arts and Crafts architect Norman Shaw There’s nothing new in the hospitality industry drawing a (who was working on Armstrong’s country property, Cragside) to add proportion of its workforce from overseas and – in an area of a drawing room and library plus the grand staircase and a sweep of bedrooms. Ten years later, in the 1880s, with Armstrong retired modest population and high employment – this is certainly the from active management of the business, Noble needed a grander case in the Lake District. At Linthwaite, however, they aren’t house for business entertaining. Shaw was called back to add the sheepish about this, the way some places can be, choosing Billiard Room and dining room and the beautiful plasterwork ceiling instead to extol the virtues of a cosmopolitan team drawn not just in the music room (now the restaurant). In 1897, in a final flourish, from the UK but from Europe and the wider world. local architect Frank Rich added the boldest conceit: an entire new All demonstrated the combination of friendliness and wing, including the Great Hall with its minstrels’ gallery, and a fleet of professionalism that distinguishes the excellent from the average. bedrooms above. Most of the interior features dating from the late 19th century house can still be seen, including vast inglenook fireplaces, William de Morgan tiling in the cocktail bar, local Frosterley “black marble” columns in the billiard room, stained glass windows, and oak flooring and panelling throughout the ground floor. Sir Andrew Noble moved in high society – Rudyard Kipling, Lord Baden-Powell, Admiral Togo, Chinese ministers and Japanese princes all stayed or dined in the house. After Sir Andrew’s widow died, in 1929, the house was variously used as a college, civil defence establishment, seminary and residential school. Bought by a consortium comprising property developer Peter Candler and chef- restaurateur Terry Laybourne, it took 18 months to convert the empty building to a hotel, which opened in 2005. After helping to set up the food operation, Terry stood down as director in 2009. Today, the arts and crafts mansion is a 40-bedroom hotel, co-owned by Peter Candler and his Rivergreen property company. On the other side of the Pennines, those who made their fortunes in the mills of Lancashire often looked further afield to escape the urban landscape in which their fortunes were forged, and their legacy can be found in more than one Lake District country house now catering to the escapist needs of modern city-dwellers. One such is Linthwaite House, frequently cited as among the very best of the genre that the national park has to offer. Built in 1901 for a wealthy Lancashire merchant, it enjoys a superb parkland vantage overlooking Windermere. It originally had just five bedrooms and almost certainly served as a summer-only residence. Its hotel life began in 1969 when its new owners extended it to make an 11-bedroom guest house. Today, the driving force behind the hotel – which now boasts 30 bedrooms and 14 acres of grounds, including its own tarn – is Mike Bevans. It is Mike who has made Linthwaite House a sought-after four AA red star bolt-hole and wedding and events venue, and paying off his original financial backers. Linthwaite House was recently named “Most Excellent Country House Hotel” by Condé Nast Johansens. Its fine-dining restaurant draws in non-residents from among visitors 32 and the local community. We chose the tasting menu and accompanying wines and were not disappointed. Sometimes a tasting menu can be something of an end in itself, with just too many appetisers fighting to amuse our bouches. Linthwaite’s offering is more restrained and benefits from that. It began with a smoked salmon mousse, with capers, lemon and dill: a perfect curtain-raiser to the excellent beef tartare and pumpernickel toast that followed. An unusual Austrian Riesling was the well chosen host for the pan- fried stone bass, while a robust New Zealand pinot noir proved a perfect accompaniment for roasted rump of local lamb. A double dessert of vanilla cheesecake with raspberry and tarragon, followed by a lightly salted dark chocolate mousse with honeycomb, rounded it all off perfectly. I’m sure it would have enjoyed the seal of approval of the late Keith Floyd, who was once a guest and subsequent friend of the owner. The following morning, we drew back the curtains to a magnificent vista of Windermere, no longer the shy creature of our arrival. It struck how reminiscent this view was of the late Alfred Wainwright’s favourite vista, from the summit of Orrest Head, a little to the north. The man whose distinctive sketches, maps and inimitable writing style remain an indispensible companion for anyone walking the Lakeland aloft, or should we choose the more sedentary appeal of Beatrix fells drew inspiration from this spot. What he liked about it was that, Potter’s house beyond the little chain ferry? We chose the latter, but despite its relatively modest height, it offered a wonderful panorama, that’s the beauty of the Lake District: it has, since the times when with Windermere and a hint of Grasmere in the foreground and the retreats like Linthwaite Hall were first conceived, offered something for high tops forming a majestic backdrop. everyone. It was a dilemma: should we accept the invitation of the fells to stride www.linthwaite.com whose work has featured often and regularly in national newspapers JESMOND DENE HOUSE and Punch. You walk past the hotel’s smallest “guest” bedroom when you come “As a hotel we like to showcase some of the nice things of the region in through the door at Jesmond Dene House. It sits just outside the and it’s stories like this that make us what we are,” says Nicky, who porch and belongs to Riley (as in “the life of”), a local cat who has is among six team members who have been with the hotel since it made it his business to keep an eye on things at the hotel. opened ten years ago. “We bought him a little house and bed because he’s very good and “What we are” is a privately owned boutique hotel choice for both never actually comes inside,” explains Nicky Sherman, Marketing business and leisure visitors to Newcastle, who make up the clientèle Manager. Once we are inside, there are dogs. But unlike the flesh- in roughly equal measure, with the former tending to be drawn from and-blood feline, these ones are cleverly constructed from wire by a among companies’ “more senior people”. local guy called Gary Tiplady. Gary, Nicky tells me, is a former pastry chef and lard sculptor, better known these days as a lookalike for “If you want to be in the city or on the Quayside, there’s a whole raft Jaws in the Bond films. He’s a mere 7ft 3ins. of hotels. But if you want to be ‘near enough’ to the city centre but not just in ‘another chain hotel’, then this is the perfect place to be.” On the walls of the hotel’s main corridor I spot an original Norman Cornish. “On loan from the Northumbria University gallery,” Nicky As an independent hotel, says Nicky, Jesmond Dene House was tells me. Also original are cartoons by local lad David Haldane, able to ride the recession well. “Last year was our best to date,” she says. “When you are privately owned you can do what works for you and switch things very easily and react quickly to changes in business, whereas if you are part of a chain you have to go through more red tape.” While the hotel’s arts and crafts interiors are very special, its gardens – backing onto Jesmond Dene itself – are not to be sniffed at and there can be few more pleasant places to sup a cocktail than on the extensive terrace outside the dining room, around which Torbay palms and other luxuriant and exotic plants create a decidedly un- northeastern feel. Herb beds are testimony to the freshness of the ingredients at the hotel’s excellent restaurant under Executive Head Chef, Michael Penaluna, awarded three AA rosettes in 2009. We awoke in our individually decorated turret room the following morning not to the noise of the nearby city but to a cacophony of birdsong: truly a country house in the city.

34 www.jesmonddenehouse.co.uk WIN two nights at Newcastle’s Jesmond Dene House Eastern Airways Magazine has teamed up with the luxurious Jesmond Dene House to offer one lucky reader and guest an exclusive “country house” break in Newcastle.

This remarkable arts and crafts house Sitting on the hotel’s terrace, it’s hard to To enter our exclusive competition, just overlooks the beautiful Jesmond Dene, believe it’s just five minutes by car or three answer the following question: among the finest city parklands in the UK, stops on the Metro to the city centre, or 20 To which celebrated Victorian design style and yet is barely two miles from the centre of minutes to the airport by car or Metro. does Jesmond Dene House belong? Newcastle. For business events, the hotel offers two The first correct entry drawn at random will Our prize includes bed and breakfast for private meetings rooms, seating up to 30, win. Send your answer to competitions@ two for two nights, plus dinner on one night, or for larger functions, the Great Hall – with gravity-consulting.com with “Jesmond Dene including one bottle of wine (to a value of its magnificent oak panelling, inglenook competition” in the subject field. Please £30) in the hotel’s three AA Rosette award- fireplace and lofty ceiling – can take up to provide name, address and phone number winning restaurant. The winners will also 100 people theatre-style, 40 people for board and the flight number and date of your last benefit from Eastern Airways flights to meetings or 120 guests for receptions. flight with Eastern Airways. Closing date Newcastle, if required. The hotel doesn’t believe in rules and Friday August 21 2015. The hotel boasts 40 bedrooms, each formality but it does believe in ensuring you Prize to be taken by March 31, 2016, subject decorated to its own individual style, and its have a good time. Whether you choose to to availability of accommodation and flights. range of dining offers is popular among both sample the locally sourced lunch menu, Public Holidays, peak periods and period residents and local people. The hotel’s walls enjoy Sunday lunch with the family, an Dec 23 - January 2, 2016 will be excluded. are home to an eclectic collection of mostly informal supper from the House Menu, locally produced art and these combine with Dinner Menu or ten-Course Tasting Menu, the charm of its lovingly conserved décor to it promises an atmosphere that’s warm, www.jesmonddenehouse.co.uk create a delightfully relaxing ambience. relaxed and friendly.

Eastern Airways flies to Newcastle from Aberdeen, Birmingham, Cardiff and Stavanger WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Information on our routes, fleet, passenger experience and suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination. BARE ESSENTIALS

BERGEN OUR DESTINATIONS SCATSTA

Scheduled routes SUMBURGH ANGEAVST R

Charter routes WICK JOHN O’GROATS Codeshare services operated by Widerøe STORNOWAY

ABERDEEN THE FLEET

NEWCASTLE

DURHAM TEES VALLEY LEEDS BRADFORD EMBRAER ERJ145 HUMBERSIDE

Two aircraft Length 30m (98ft) EAST MIDLANDS Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft Wingspan, 20m (65ft) NORWICH BIRMINGHAM CARDIFF

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EMBRAER ERJ135 Besides the airline’s scheduled service LYON Two aircraft Length 26m (86ft) network in the UK and Norway, Eastern Seats 37 passengers Typical cruising speed, Airways also operates domestic services Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft within France, from Lorient, in southern Wingspan, 20m (65ft) Brittany to France’s second city, Lyon.

JETSTREAM 41 SAAB 2000

Eighteen aircraft Length 20m (63ft) Nine aircraft Length 26.7m (89ft) Seats 29 passengers Typical cruising speed, Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turboprop engines 280 knots, at 20,000ft Two jetprop engines 370 knots, at 28,000ft 36 Wingspan 19m (60ft) Wingspan 24.3m (81ft) ESSENTIAL TRAVEL PASSENGER EXPERIENCE

AIR TRAVEL SHOULD BE MORE OF A PLEASURE AND LESS OF A CHORE

After booking your Eastern Airways Norwich and Southampton for passengers STAMPING OUT flight via a travel agent, the airline’s travelling on fully flexible tickets. website or in-house reservations call DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR centre, you will have noticed that As you board your aircraft you will Eastern Airways uses e-tickets. It was in notice we have a fleet of liveried valet While the vast majority of passengers flying fact one of the airlines to pioneer baggage carts for you to place larger globally behave impeccably, there is a ticketless travel over nine years ago. items of hand luggage by the aircraft steps. greater awareness of isolated incidents of Your hand luggage will be awaiting you on disruptive behaviour, also known as “air Queues at check-in are short and the the valet baggage cart at your destination rage”. While this isn’t a major problem for Eastern Airways, the safety and security of process is swift as is the experience airport. our passengers and crew is our number one through the security channels. This is priority. possible thanks to Fast Track, which is Once on board, our highly trained cabin available at Aberdeen, Birmingham, attendants offer a friendly and We don’t want our customers to experience Cardiff, Leeds Bradford, Southampton, personalised in-flight service including any behaviour that makes them feel East Midlands and Newcastle, and is a complimentary drinks and branded uncomfortable, or be put in a situation that dedicated security channel for Eastern snacks. On arrival our aircraft allow for compromises safety. Disruptive behaviour Airways passengers to use and avoid quick disembarkation, enabling can include smoking, drunkenness, aggress busy airport terminal security queues. passengers to make their way swiftly ive behaviour or abusive language towards a onwards through the terminals. customer or a member of crew. Our crews With Eastern Airways operating the are fully trained to deal with any incident of largest number of scheduled services this type. from Aberdeen, a dedicated business OUR AIM IS TO MAKE YOUR lounge is available for all its customers TRAVEL AS PLEASANT AN Disobeying a lawful command given by a flying from the airport and is located next crew member is committing an offence under to its departure gates. Executive lounge EXPERIENCE AS POSSIBLE. the UK Air Navigation Order. Offenders who access is also offered at Birmingham, HAVE AN ENJOYABLE TRIP. persistently misbehave on a flight will be Cardiff, East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, handed to the appropriate authorities on arrival and may face arrest and a heavy fine or up to two years imprisonment. Severe We operate a strict no smoking policy on board all of our aircraft and in all of our restrictions will also be placed on their future lounges. This includes the use of electronic cigarettes or any cigarette substitute travel with Eastern Airways. device that emits a vapour or has a power source or produces heat and or a light. We do not permit electronic cigarettes to be charged within our lounges. Electronic It must again be stressed that disruptive cigarettes may be carried on board subject to the following conditions: behaviour is extremely rare, but we do • Carried on person only take a zero-tolerance stance towards • No refills any behaviour that may endanger our passengers and crew. • Strictly not permitted for use ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON… n The Cardiff Comedy Festival runs throughout July in various venues around the city. Events include stand-up shows previewing before their stints in Edinburgh as well as regular nights and special events showcasing local talent. Past acts have included Rhod Gilbert, Lucy Porter, Ardal O’Hanlon, Craig Campbell, Richard Herring, Omid Djalili, Russell Kane and BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S Alan Davies.

n Game On 2.0 at Newcastle’s Life Science Centre until November 1 offers the world’s most comprehensive collection of computer games from the past 60 years. Visitors can explore the history, culture and future of gaming Magna Carta Vault entertainment and technology through more than 100 playable games, BACON AND THE MASTERS OF THE PAST including Xbox 360, Nintendo Wii and Francis Bacon and the Masters is a Matisse and Van Gogh. There are also PlayStation 3 with games such as ground-breaking exhibition currently superb examples of antique Greek, Halo 3, Wii Sports Resort and Rock running at the Sainsbury Centre for Roman and Egyptian sculpture from the Band. www.life.org.uk Modern Art, in Norwich, until July 26. State Hermitage. Many of these works n Brand new for 2015 at Warwick have not travelled to the UK before. The exhibition comes to Norwich Castle is the Time Tower, which allows following its internationally acclaimed The 13 Bacon paintings in the Robert visitors to take a whirlwind adventure opening at the State Hermitage and Lisa Sainsbury Collection form the quest through the castle’s history. Museum in St Petersburg, where it core group of works in the exhibition but Unveiled this spring by TV historian and author Dan Jones, Time Tower uses marked the culmination of the they are joined by important loans visual technology to transport visitors celebrations for the 250th anniversary of drawn from public and private from the Dark Ages to modern times, the Hermitage and concluded the UK/ collections across Britain and Ireland. In using 3D and 4D special effects, all Russia Year of Culture. all, more than 30 works by the artist are on display. designed to make history fun. Bacon’s obsession with the art of the past is brought into full focus in major The exhibition includes documentary body of works, which are juxtaposed and archive material, such as photographs of Bacon’s studio, palettes, with masterpieces by some of the books, catalogues and materials owned greatest painters and sculptors in the by the artist and loaned by Dublin City history of art including Rembrandt, Gallery, The Hugh Lane. Velazquez, Rodin, Michelangelo, Picasso, Bernini, Cezanne, Titian, www.scva.ac.uk

Above left: Francis Bacon, Head of a Man, 1960, Oil on canvas, Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, © The Estate of Francis Bacon. All rights reserved, DACS 2015. Photo: Prudence n In 2015, The Aberdeen International Cuming Associates Ltd. Right: Pablo Picasso, A Young Lady, 1909, Oil on canvas, The Youth Festival (AIYF) will produce over State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg 2014 80 performances in nine days of top class entertainment across 50 venues between July 24 and August 1.

Danish artists weave their impressions of Scotland n Stavanger is the host for the very first High Life Highland’s The Danish Diaspora IFSC World Cup in Climbing ever – Scotland Seen Through Danish Eyes – organised in a Nordic country. The event runs at the St Fergus Gallery, Wick until takes place in Sørmarka Arena from July 11. August 19-22. The exhibition of ceramics, jewellery, n The UK’s largest Gin Festival returns baskets and boxes will show work by five to Leeds Town Hall from July 18-19. internationally recognized Scottish Danes The event, which will showcase over Lotte Glob, Lise Bech, Lillian Busch, 100 gins, also includes live Mette Fruergaard and Nickolai Globe. entertainment, talks from gin industry 38 www.highlifehighland.com experts and food. SUNDERLAND’S RED ARMY Three displays from the Red Arrows are part of the line-up for this year’s Sunderland International Airshow, which takes place over the weekend of Friday July 24 to 26. An action-packed display programme includes crowd favourites as well as teams and aircraft displaying along the seafront for the very first time. Timings are to be confirmed but expected to fly on Friday evening as well as Saturday and Sunday are The Battle of Britain Memorial Flight featuring a Lancaster, Hurricane and HebCelt celebrates 20 years with new sounds Spitfire; the Red Arrows, RAF Tutor, The multi-award winning HebCelt returns musician with a long association with RAF Hawk T2, RAF Typhoon and the for its annual festival in Stornoway from HebCelt, has been commissioned to write Twister Duo. July 15-18. An Luchar (The Key) which will be premiered at the festival. Other highlights Completing the flying programme Set against one of the most atmospheric acts includie Idlewild, Afro Celt Sound on Saturday and Sunday are: RAF backdrops – the Hebridean island of Lewis System, Treacherous Orchestra, the Karen Falcons, Royal Navy Black Cats – the festival celebrates its 20th anniversary Matheson Band, Shooglenifty, Chastity (bringing their new Wildcat helicopters with the creation of a new musical Brown, Le Vent du Nord, Raghu Dixit and for the first time), Royal Navy Search composition by one of the islands’ most Salsa Celtica. and Rescue Sea King, The Blades famous sons. Alasdair White, the renowned Gerald Cooper, Norwegian MiG fiddle player with the Battlefield Band and a www.hebceltfest.com 15, Patrouille Reva, OV-10 Bronco and Curtis P40 Warhawk and P51 HISTORIC VENUES JOIN FORCES Mustang. Lumley Castle Hotel, at Chester-le-Street, All airshow displays are subject to County Durham, has teamed up with the weather and operational restrictions. Bowes Museum, at nearby Barnard Castle, Display timings for BBMF and all to create a mini-break designed to showcase airshow attractions will be confirmed the region¹s social and cultural heritage. near the weekend. Lumley Castle’s Bowes Museum break will www.seeitdoitsunderland.co.uk combine a two night stay at the four-star hotel, which has offered shelter to kings and princes in the course of its 600-year history, with tickets to the award-winning museum which has royal links of its own. A magnificent French-style château, it was created in the late 19th century by John and Joséphine Bowes; ancestors of Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, who became HM Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, and was the Bowes Museum museum¹s patron until her death in 2002. spanning five centuries, including works by It houses internationally renowned collec- Canaletto, El Greco, Courbet and Turner, tions of European fine and decorative arts along with its iconic Silver Swan, an 18th century musical automaton, which plays every day at 2pm. Summer visitors will also enjoy a series of temporary exhibitions including Yves Saint Laurent Style is Eternal, from July 11 to October 25. Guests at the castle, which sits in nine acres of grounds, will stay in one of The its 73 rooms, either in the main building or in Red Arrows Lumley Castle converted courtyard accommodation. 40

BARE ESSENTIALS: WHAT’S GOING ON from Leeds Bradford and Aberdeen and Bradford Leeds from to Southampton flies Airways Eastern www.acwsportsmouth.com first timeonhomewaters. support BenAinslieRacingasitcompetesforthe sporting actionandwillprovide thechanceto The eventwilldeliveranincredible fourdaysof Waterfront Pavilionwww.worldseriesportsmouth.com Official Hospitalitypackages are availableinthe www.ticketmaster.co.uk/acwsportsmouth selling outaswewenttopress, buttry view Waterside FestivalArena were gettingcloseto been registered fororpurchased. Ticketstothefree-to- andhugequantitiesofshore sideticketshavealready experience willbeafullyticketholderaccessonlyevent The event’s shore sideentertainmentandspectator deliver.” entertainment andweguaranteethatPortsmouthwill Cup World Seriestobringtheworld’s bestsailorsand entertainment event.We knowBritainexpectstheAmerica’s for everyone’andtoensure thisisbothasportingand Series Portsmouth,said:“Ouraimistoprovide ‘something Sir KeithMills,EventChairmanoftheAmerica’s CupWorld Southsea Common. family entertainmentandaregatta village,allhappeningon and cannotfailtobespectacular, thankstothebigscreens, at almosttouchingdistancefrom theonshore spectators historic waterfront. TheracinginPortsmouthwilltakeplace close-quarters vantagepointsavailablealongPortsmouth’s action beensoaccessibletospectators,withmilesof never before intheUKhassuchfastandfurioussailing Portsmouth ishostingtheeventforfirsttimeeverand reach speedsofmore than40mph. crews pushedtothepeakoffitnessenabletheirAC45s Often describedasFormula1onwater, theracingsees the America’s CupQualifiers,inBermuda,twoyears’time. Every racecounts,withvitalpointsbeingsecured aheadof that “fly”onfoilsatastonishingspeeds. sailors intheworldbattleitoutonsleekAC45catamarans July, leadinguptothe35thAmerica’s Cup,inwhichthebest The America’s CupWorld Seriesisacollectionofregattas in Portsmouth. when theAmerica’s CupWorld Series(ACWS)takesplacein America’s CupRacingreturnstoBritishwatersthissummer INTO PORTSMOUTH INTO TO SET SAIL CUP AMERICA’S

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Photo: MarkLloyd/LloydImages T1 foiling catamaran. T1 foilingcatamaran. BARE ESSENTIALS: WHERE TO VISIT

LLANELLY HOUSE, Carmarthenshire

I am standing in the Great Hall of what is engraved glass pieces that are unique “We are opening a genealogy centre regarded as Wales’s finest early to the attraction. upstairs with eight touch-screen Georgian domestic building. Over the computers where people can come and Llanelly House came to the public’s mantelpiece hangs a portrait by Sir research their family history and we are attention in 2003 during the BBC series Joshua Reynolds of Sir John Stepney working with schools on various Restoration presented by Griff Rhys (1693-1748), the son of the house’s projects to interest young people in their Jones when it was championed by original owner, Sir Thomas Stepney heritage. The Stepney family helped interior designer Laurence Llewelyn (1668-1745), but I am more interested in found this industrial town, including Bowen. It didn’t win so a campaign was the contents of the display cases. owning the now-defunct Llanelly launched to raise £6.5 million with work Pottery, and this is where it all began.” The tour guide, Siân Williams tells me: beginning in 2010 and the house finally “This is just a third of the original opening its doors (including the original Guided tours are on offer from Monday 366-piece dinner service that was front door) in October 2013. to Saturday at 11am, 12.30pm, 2pm and commissioned from China by Sir 3.30pm and cost £7 for adults, £4 for Sitting in the pale-green surrounds of Thomas, grandson of the house’s children or £22 for a family. The the high-ceilinged tearoom, which is founder, in the 1760s. What we have 70-minute visit includes short films noted for its home-cooked food and here was discovered with a family in about the town’s history and the family’s local dishes such as cawl (lamb stew), Washington DC and bought for more life including the ‘great scandal’ of 1851 House Manager Morgan Wood tells me: than £200,000, which reflects the fact when a housemaid committed suicide. “The renovation of this house, apart that it is one of the finest services in from preserving an important historical www.llanelly-house.org.uk existence.” building, is very much about serving the Eastern Airways flies to Cardiff from Llanelly House is the only Grade I listed community and helping regenerate this Newcastle and Aberdeen building in Llanelli, the largest town in part of town. Carmarthenshire, about an hour’s drive west of Cardiff, and best known these days for being the home of the Scarlets rugby team. Around 30 per cent of the local population speak Welsh and the town’s spelling was changed from the English ‘y’ to the Welsh ‘i’ in 1966 after a public campaign. Built in 1714 on the site of an older dwelling, Llanelly House began to fall into decline in the 19th century when it changed hands within the family. At one point, the downstairs was turned into shops and the old post office’s safe can be seen in what is now the house gift shop, which stocks a good range of tasteful products including hand- Lady Stepney’s bedchamber RESTAURANT REVIEW DELICIOUS DINING

The 100-seat ground floor restaurant relaxed with the murmur of quiet Tina Ediss visits was recently voted by Bertolli Spread conversation. The service is friendly Olive D’Oro Awards and BBC Good and attentive without being Southampton’s popular Food campaign as the seventh best embarrassingly over-enthusiastic. trattoria in England. It was also voted Ennio’s is also a restaurant-with-rooms. BARE ESSENTIALS: WHERE TO EAT Ennio’s eatery and finds it the best Italian in Hampshire by Milan Upstairs are ten, five-star luxury newspaper, Corriere Della Sera. en-suite bedrooms, each individually a cut above the average Every week the head chef chooses a designed. Breakfast is included and is speciality from different regions of Italy, served in the restaurant. There’s no Italian… which might include a starter of buffet: everything is prepared fresh to Vol-au-Vont al Pollo E Funghi Selvatici order. Prices from £95 per room per – chicken, wild mushroom and tarragon night. Perhaps it‘s not surprising that the vol-au-vont (£7.95) – and a main course The spacious boutique rooms at the original wooden flooring in Ennio’s of Rombo Alle Erbe – grilled whole front of the building overlook the Town Ristorante E Bar Italiano in turbot with a lemon and crayfish butter, Quay and although it is a busy road, the Southampton has a slight bounce. fresh herbs, new potatoes, sautéed double-glazing deals with the traffic spinach and peas, and roasted cherry Over the years this Victorian Grade II noise so efficiently that you will be tomatoes (£22.95). listed building has borne a lot of weight. unaware of it. The rooms at the rear It was once a baggage warehouse, The dessert menu includes the house have a view of Southampton’s Old Town storing luggage for people about to set speciality, a wonderfully creamy Walls. off on a cruise, including passengers on tiramisu, Chef’s own profiteroli con Ennio’s location on the waterfront RMS Titanic. crema di cacao (both £6.60) and a makes it ideal for exploring the historic delicious pannacotta al citro (£6.25). Now it’s Ennio’s traditional Italian Old Town or for shopping at the huge restaurant and bears the weight of a At lunchtime there’s a two courses for West Quay shopping mall. It’s directly well-stocked bar with stylish black £14.00 offer, with tempting choices opposite the Isle of Wight Ferry – and of leather chairs, and a split-level dining including Fontina E Parma Impanti – course it’s an apt place to stay if you area, elegant with red and grey walls deep-fried Italian cheese wrapped in are just about to set off on a cruise from and a rich red carpet. Light pours in parma ham and basil – as a starter, and Southampton. from low windows onto tables Bistecca di Manzo – steak marinated in beautifully set with starched white chilli, garlic and oregano with hand cut Ennio’s Ristorante E Bar Italiano and tablecloths. Outside, window boxes are chips and salad – for the main course. Ennio’s Boutique Hotel Rooms, bright with flowers. www.ennios-boutique-hotel.co.uk Ennio’s is certainly not a fast-food Ennio’s is one of the offerings of venue: the emphasis is on freshly Eastern Airways flies to Southampton Southampton’s Delicious Dining Group. prepared meals. The ambience is from Aberdeen and Leeds Bradford.

STORNOWAY WICK JOHN O’GROATS ABERDEEN NEWCASTLE

Lews Castle Ackergill Tower Banchory Beer Festival Roman Empire: Power and People

WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE To the east of the town. Taxis One mile from the centre of Seven miles north-west of the Seven miles north-west of the and car hire are available at the Wick, half an hour’s drive from city centre, off the A96. Regular city centre. Metro rail link every airport. No weekend flights. Thurso. Main bus and rail buses into the city centre. For few minutes to the city, Carhire Hebrides: 01851 706 stations are near to Wick centre car hire see Europcar info back Gateshead, the coast and 500. serving most places in page. Sunderland. Half-hourly bus Caithness. Trains to Thurso and service. Taxi fare to city, approx VISIT Inverness. Post bus operates VISIT £12. For car hire see Europcar Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell Aberdeen Maritime Museum, Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: info on back page. St; Woodlands Centre, Lews Shiprow; Tolbooth Museum, BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS Dunnets offers airport pick-up Castle grounds; An Lanntair Castle St; Rendezvous Gallery, and drop-off, 01955 602103. VISIT Arts Centre, Kenneth Street, Forest Ave. Great North Museum, Centre for Stornoway. VISIT Life, Newcastle; Gateshead Wick Heritage Museum; St STAY AT Quays for the Baltic and Sage Rox Hotel, Market St; Skene STAY AT Fergus Gallery, Sinclair Terr; Gateshead. Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal House Hotel suites, various Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. Hotel, Cromwell St, Stornoway; locations; Malmaison; Park Inn STAY AT Scarista House, west Harris; STAY AT by Radisson; Raemoir House Sandman Signature, Hotel Auberge Carnish, Uig. Ackergill Tower, Wick; Mackays Hotel, Banchory. Indigo, Jesmond Dene House, Hotel, Wick; The Brown Trout all Newcastle; Hilton, Gateshead. SHOP AT Hotel, Station Rd, Watten, near SHOP AT Callanish Jewellery, Point St; Juniper (gifts, jewellery), Wick. SHOP AT This ’n That, Cromwell St; Belmont St; Aberdeen Antique Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Borgh Pottery, Borgh (20 miles). SHOP AT Centre, South College St. Princess Square, Newcastle; John O’Groats (pottery, Van Mildert, MetroCentre and DRINK AT knitwear); Rotterdam St, Thurso DRINK AT Durham. Chili Chili cocktail and vodka The Monkey House, Union (20 miles). bar, Era, South Beach; The Terr; Pearl Lounge, Dee St; DRINK AT Carlton Lounge, Francis St. DRINK AT The Globe, North Silver St; The Crown Posada, Side; The Forth, (Both in Stornoway) Cocktail Bar, Mackay’s Hotel, Prince of Wales, St Nicholas Pink Lane; Bridge Hotel, Castle Wick; the Alexander Bain Lane. Garth – all Newcastle. EAT AT Wetherspoons, Wick. Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden EAT AT EAT AT Ocean, Cromwell St; Thai, EAT AT Prohibition, Langstane Pl; Stage House of Tides, Quayside; Church St. (All in Stornoway) Bord de l’Eau, Market St, Wick; Door Restaurant, North Silver Blackfriars; Caffè Vivo (Live Le Bistro, Thurso; Captain’s St; Cinnamon, Union St; Manzil, Theatre); Red Mezze, Leazes WHAT’S ON Galley, Scrabster (22 miles). King St; Soul, Union St; The Park Rd; Peace and Loaf, Barrathon and Fun Run, Isle of Tippling House, Belmont St. Jesmond – all Newcastle. Barra, Jun 27; Ceolas Festival, WHAT’S ON South Uist, Jul 5-10; HebCelt Caithness County Show, WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON – Hebridean Celtic Festival, Isle Westerseat, Riverside, Wick, Jul Aberdeen International Youth Roman Empire: Power and of Lewis, Jul 15-18; Harris 18; Sutherland County Show, Festival (AIYF), Jul 24 - Aug 1; People, Segedunum Roman Mountain Festival, Sep 12. Dornoch Jul 25; Halkirk Enjoy Music @ Hazlehead Park, Fort, Wallsend, until Sep 13; Highland Games, Jul 25; Wick Jul 25; Banchory Beer Festival, SummerTyne Americana Festival, Gala Week, starts Jul 25. Aug 7-9; Braemar Highland Jul 17-19; Hardwick Live 2015, Gathering, Sep 5. Sedgefield, Aug 22.

Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 Airport 0844 481 6666 Airport 0871 882 1121 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html www.aberdeenairport.com www.newcastleinternational.co.uk Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Onward connections Onward connections to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Tees Valley, Aberdeen, Birmingham, Cardiff, to Bergen, Cardiff, Durham Durham Tees Valley, East Midlands, East Midlands, Humberside, Stavanger. Onward connections to Tees Valley, East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, Bergen, Stornoway, Wick Humberside, Newcastle, Norwich, Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Norwich, Southampton, Tourist/Local Info Southampton, Stavanger, Wick Stavanger, Stornoway Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick. 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 Tourist/Local Info 01224 900490 www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk www.wicktown.co.uk www.visitaberdeen.com DURHAM TEES VALLEY HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD EAST MIDLANDS

Cleveland Show Lincoln Castle DoubleTree by Hilton The Beach Nottingham BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE WHERE Five miles east of Darlington Fifteen miles east of Scun Nine miles north-west of Leeds Twelve miles from both Derby and ten miles west of thorpe, 20 miles south of Hull, centre, seven miles from and Nottingham, just off the M1 Middlesbrough. Taxi fare to 16 miles west of Grimsby, 30 Bradford. Regular Airlink 757 junction 24. Rail stations Darlington approx £8. For car miles north of Lincoln. Regular bus from bus and rail stations Loughborough, Long Eaton, hire see Europcar info back bus services to major towns. to terminal. Taxi time 25 mins. Nottingham and Derby are a page. Barnetby Station three miles For car hire see Europcar info on short bus/taxi ride from EMA. from airport with Intercity con- back page. For car hire see Europcar info on VISIT nections via Doncaster. Approx back page. mima (Middlesbrough Institute taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire VISIT of Modern Art) Centre Square; Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds see Europcar info, back page. VISIT Locomotion, the National City Museum, Millennium Nottingham Contemporary, Railway Museum at Shildon; VISIT Square; National Media Museum, Weekday Cross; Creswell Crags, Hartlepool’s Maritime Museums Quarter, Hull; The Bradford; Salts Mill, Saltaire. Worksop; QUAD, Cathedral Experience, Historic Quay. Deep, Hull; Lincoln Castle and Quarter, Derby. Cathedral; Ferens Art Gallery, Hull. STAY AT STAY AT DoubleTree by Hilton, Leeds; STAY AT Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on STAY AT Radisson Blu, The Headrow, Radisson Blu at airport; Tees; Holiday Inn, Scotch Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Leeds; the New Ellington, Cathedral Quarter Hotel, St Corner; Headlam Hall, near Cave Castle Hotel, Brough; Leeds; Dubrovnik boutique Mary’s Gate, Derby. Darlington; Crathorne Hall Willerby Manor, Willerby; The hotel, Oak Avenue, Bradford. Hotel, Yarm; Wynyard Hall. White Hart, Lincoln. SHOP AT SHOP AT Paul Smith, Low Pavement, SHOP AT SHOP AT Retro Boutique, Headingley Nottingham; The Artisan’s Psyche, Linthorpe Rd, Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Lane, Leeds; Harvey Nichols, Studio, Arnold, Nottingham. Middlesbrough; The House, Lincoln; Henri Beene, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria Yarm High Street; Leggs, Abbeygate, Grimsby. Quarter, Leeds. DRINK AT Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, below Skinnergate, Darlington. DRINK AT DRINK AT Nottingham Castle; The Water- DRINK AT The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; front, Canal St, Nottingham. George and Dragon, Yarm; Lincoln; Ye Olde Black Boy, Haigys, Lumb Lane, Bradford. Black Bull, Frosterley. High St, Hull. EAT AT EAT AT Loch Fyne, King St, Nottingham; EAT AT EAT AT Mumtaz, Clarence Dock, Leeds; Red Hot World buffet and Bar, Raby Hunt, Summerhouse; Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Brasserie Blanc, Sovereign St, Corner House, Nottingham. Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; Brackenborough Hotel & Leeds. Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Restaurant, Louth; Wintering- WHAT’S ON WHAT’S ON The Beach Nottingham 2015, Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. ham Field, Winteringham; Pipe The Great Yorkshire Show, Old Market Square, Jul 16-Sep and Glass, South Dalton. WHAT’S ON Harrogate, Jul 14-16; The Leeds 1; Splendour Festival 2015, Middlesbrough Restaurant WHAT’S ON International Piano Competition, Wollaton Hall, Jul 18; Week, Jul 13-19; Cleveland Bridlington Seafood Festival, Leeds Town Hall, Aug 26-Sept Nottingham Riverside Festival, Show, Stewart Park, Bridlington Harbour, Jul 11; 13; Leeds Festival, Bramham Victoria Embankment, Jul Middlesbrough, Jul 25. YUM Food Festival, Hull, Aug Park, Aug 28-30; Leeds West 31-Aug 2; Robin Hood Festival, 7-8; Freedom Festival, Hull, Indian Carnival, city centre, Sherwood Forest Country Park, Sep 4-6. Aug 31. Aug 3-9.

Airport 01325 332811 Airport 0844 887 7747 Airport 0113 250 9696 Airport 0871 919 9000 www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk www.eastmidlandsairport.com Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights to Eastern Airways flights to Aberdeen Eastern Airways flights to Onward connections to Bergen, Aberdeen. Onward connections and Southampton. Onward Aberdeen. Onward connections Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, connections to Bergen, Stavanger, to Bergen, Stavanger, Stornoway, Tourist/Local Info Wick Wick Wick 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 Tourist/Local Info www.visitmiddlesbrough.com www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.visitleeds.co.uk 08444 775678 www.visitlincolnshire.com www.yorkshire.com www.visitderby.co.uk www.yorkshire.com www.experiencenottinghamshire.com 44 VisitNorwich Ltd BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS BIRMINGHAM Film Festival,Jul13-19. 10-12; BrindleyplaceOutdoor Festival, MoseleyPark,Jul Mostly JazzFunk&Soul & BluesFestival,Jul3-12; Jazz Birmingham International Nichols (Mailbox). Selfridges (Bullring);Harvey Rd; StayingCool,Rotunda. Queensway; Marriott,Hagley Radisson Blu,HollowayCircus, Hotel Indigo,TheCube; Museum, MillenniumPoint. Thinktank BirminghamScience Quarter, Vyse St,Hockley; Sq; MuseumoftheJewellery Gallery, (BMAG),Chamberlain Birmingham MuseumandArt back page. car hire seeEuropcar infoon Birmingham andCoventry. For Stationfortrainsto International monorail systemtoBirmingham Connected byfree Air-Rail Link Junction 6oftheM42. Six mileseastofthecity, off Cornwall St. Cornwall San Carlo,Temple St;Opus, Spile, GasSt. Bank, BrindleyPl;TheTap and WHERE WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT Staffordshire Hoard gallery, BMAG www.visitbirmingham.com Tourist/Local Info08448883883 Newcastle Airwaysflightsto Eastern www.bhx.co.uk Airport 08712827117

Aug 15. 10-12; PrideCymru,ButePark, Food andDrinkFestival,Jul Jul 4-5;Cardiff International language festival,Cardiff Castle, 4; Tafwyl Fair, Cardiff’s Welsh Prix, MillenniumStadium,Jul British FIMSpeedwayGrand Rd East. Purple Poppadom,Cowbridge Wales MillenniumCentre; The PottedPig,HighSt;ffresh, Vaults, ParkPlace. Pen andWig,ParkGrove; Park (weekends), SEofcitycentre. shops; SplottMarket St MaryStreet forspecialist Havannah St,Cardiff Bay. Valley; StDavid’s Hotel&Spa, Peterstone Court,intheUsk Experience, Cardiff Bay. Centre, Cardiff Bay;DrWho Bay; NorwegianChurch Arts Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay VisitorCentre, Wales Cardiff Castle;Cardiff page. hire seeEuropcar infoonback Central andBridg connects airporttoCardiff M4. Raillink,everyhour, ten milesfrom Junction33on Twelve mileswestofCardiff, SHOP AT WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK AT STAY VISIT WHERE www.southernwales.com www.visitcardiff.com Tourist/Local Info02920873573 Stornoway, Wick connections toBergen,Stavanger, Aberdeen, Newcastle.Onward Airwaysflightsto Eastern www.cardiff-airport.com Airport 01446 711111 Airport 01446711111 CARDIFF

Food andDrinkfestival

end. For car end. Forcar

Whitefriars, Norwich. Norwich PuppetTheatre, Sandringham Estate,Norfolk; Norwich Castle,ElmHill; Norwich Cathedral,TheClose; Europcar infoonbackpage. Norwich £7.Forcarhire see centre. Approx taxifare to Hourly busserviceintothecity Three milesnorthofthecity. race, Norwich, 2015, Jun20-Jul4;Run Wymondham MusicFestival Italia, StBenedictsSt. Umberto’s Trattoria Jambo, LowerGoatLane; Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Bar, StGeorges St. Guildhall Hill;TheLastWine Wine Press, Woburn Court, Adam &Eve,Bishopgate;The The FatCat,West EndSt;The Ladies Wear, Timberhill. Jarrold’s, LondonSt;Ginger Norfolk MeadHotel,Coltishall. Hotel &Spa,HoninghamRd; Broom & CountryClub;Barnham Marriott Sprowston ManorHotel Hotel &GolfClub,IpswichRd; Tombland; DeVere DunstonHall The MaidsHeadHotel, VISIT WHERE WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY NORWICH www.visitnorwich.co.uk Tourist/Local Info01603213999 Wick to Bergen,Stavanger, Stornoway, Aberdeen. Onwardconnections Airwaysflightsto Eastern www.norwichairport.co.uk Airport 01603411923 Aug 30.

new 10-kilometre road

Norwich Cathedral

Gilbert RdSouth. St; SolentSky, HallofAviation, Tudor House&Garden, Bugle SeaCity Museum,HavelockRd; see Europcar infoonbackpage. hourly tothecity. Forcarhire and LondonWaterloo. Buses trains hourlytoSoutham Station besideterminal,three Five milesnorthofcity. Parkway www.discoversouthampton.co.uk Tourist/Local Info02380833333 Stornoway, Wick connections toBergen,Stavanger, and LeedsBradford.Onward AirwaysflightstoAberdeen Eastern www.southamptonairport.com Airport 08700400009 Best Western ChilworthManor. Harbour Hotel,West QuayRd; Dining Rooms,Oxford St;Grand The WhiteStarTavern and 11-20. Mayflower Park,September Southampton waterfront and Southampton BoatShow, July 23-26,Portsmouth; America’s CupWorld Series, Coriander Lounge,BelowBar. Museum café,HavelockRoad; Olive Tree, Oxford St;SeaCity Esplanade. St; ThePigintheWall, Western The DukeofWellington, Bugle The Cellar, West MarlandRd; Rd. Centre Shopping Centre, Civic Old NorthamRd;TheMarlands city centre; AntiquesQuarter, WestQuay ShoppingCentre, VISIT WHERE STAY AT STAY WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT SOUTHAMPTON

Tudor House

pton pton

46 46

BARE ESSENTIALS: DESTINATIONS EXPLORATION EXPRESS SHETLAND on-airport facilitiesatScatsta). 693 636(notethatthere are no boltscarhire.co.uk orcall01595 Lerwick. Forhire carvisitwww. Mainland, andalso24milesfrom tipof located atthesouthern is theislands’commercial airport, Sullom Voe oilterminal.Sumburgh of Lerwick,afewmilesfrom the Scatsta is24milesnorth-west Scatsta andSumburgh Airports. contract fortheoilindustrytoboth Airwaysoperatesunder Eastern Shetland FiddleFrenzy, Aug2-9. Agricultural Show, Aug1; 4-10; UnstFest,Jul10-19;Voe Shetland Nature Festival,Jul Vord Resort,Unst. Monty’s Bistro, Lerwick; Saxa Busta HouseHotel,Brae; Bar, Lerwick;KilnBar, Scalloway. Mid BraeInn,Brae;TheLounge Brewery, SaxaVord. & SonKnitwear, Lerwick;Valhalla Shetland Fudge,Lerwick;Jamieson Hotel, Centralmainland. Vord Resort,Unst;Scalloway Busta HouseHotel,Brae;Saxa (both Mainland). Lerwick; Jarlshof,Grutness Britain; ShetlandMuseum, tipof Unst, thenorthernmost Mareel, Lerwick;MuckleFlugga, WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHERE visit.shetland.org Tourist/Local Info01595693434 Airways fortheoilindustry. Aberdeen, operatedbyEastern to dailycharterservices Frequent www.hial.co.uk/sumburgh-airport/ Sumburgh Airport01950460905 Shetland Nature Festival

August 7-16. 12; LorientInterceltic Festival, drive from Lorientairport,July departs from Vannes, 40mins Tour deFrance2015,stage9 Monjarret, Lorient. Morvan, 1placePollig Ploemeur; Tavarn ArRoue Le MoulinVert, portdeLomene, Gourmand, 46rueJulesSimon. Colonel Muller;LeJardin L’Amphitryon,127 ruedu Briand. Rohan; FNAC,placeAristide quai desIndesandde Rue duPortandruedeLiège; by theport. west ofthecty;HôtelLéopol, Brit Hotel,LeKerotel, north- Hôtel Mercure, Lorientcentre ; Blayet andScorff valleys. de Groix;Quiberon; Carnac; the de Gâvres lagoon;Belle-Ile;Île Gulf ofMorbihan;Lapetitemer Approx taxitocentre, €20-25. 15 minutesfrom thecitycentre. About three milesnorth-westor WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY VISIT WHERE LORIENT www.lorient-tourisme.fr Tourist/Local Info+33(0)2847800 AirwaysflightstoLyonEastern www.lorient.aeroport.fr Airport +

33 (0)297872150

Lorient pleasure port

Croix-Rousse quarter. basilica; oldLyon; the Notre-Dame deFourvière speed railnetwork. gives accessthenationalhigh- and hire cars.TGVstation tram (€15.70).Plusbus,taxi 30 minutesawaybyexpress miles eastofthecity, whichis Lyon’s StExupéryairportis15 September 12,Croix-Rousse. Republic grapeharvest, Sathonay-Camp; Canuts Theatre festival,July2-5, d’Argent, Lyon 1district. Rémanence, rueduBât Laurencin, Lyon 2district;La Le SaintCochon,11rue 16 rueLainerie,Lyon 5district; Bouchon LesFinesGueules, rue Longue,Lyon 1district. des Terreaux andGeorgia, 18 district; LeBostonCafe,8place Romand Rolland,Lyon 5 La GrangeauBouc,9quai market, Villeurbanne. Les PucesduCanalflea Rue duBoeufintheOldTown; Tables Claudiennes. Les Soyeuses,49ruedes Fromagerie; Chambre d’Hôtes Boulevardier, 5ruedela Francisque Regaud;Hôtelle Grand HôteldelaPaix,2place VISIT WHERE WHAT’S ON AT EAT ATDRINK SHOP AT AT STAY LYON Airport + www.lyon-france.com +33 (0)826800826 Tourist/Local Info AirwaysflightstoLorient Eastern www.lyonaeroports.com

+33 (0)4727769

La Croix Rousse

the beach,nearairport. centre; SolaStrandHotel,on Skagen Brygge,allinthecity The Clarion,Myrhegaarden, Lysefjord. formation thatoverlooksthe Pulpit Rock–anaturalrock miles outoftown. coast. Theairportisjustnine on thecountry’s south-west Norway’s fourthlargest citylies Austrheim, Aug8-16. Nordic OceansportWeek, quayside. Brygge, bothontheold mid-market ThonBergen Radisson Railway. including theBreathtaking Flam the dramaticscenerynearby, tour (ideallythree days)ofsome Norway inaNutshell–short composer Edvard Grieg. Troldhaugen, thehomeof west ofthecentre ofBergen. approximately 12milessouth- Bergen airportFleslandis Stavanger, Jul22-25. Gladmat foodfestival, STAY AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON AT STAY VISIT WHAT’S ON STAVANGER BERGEN NORWAY Stornoway, Wick Bradford, Norwich, Southampton, East Midlands,Humberside, Leeds to Cardiff,DurhamTees Valley, Newcastle. Onwardconnections AirwaysflightstoAberdeen, Eastern www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen Bergen Airport+4767031555 www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Stavanger Airport+4767031000

lu Royal or the lu Royalorthe

Gladmat

FISH AND CHIPS ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE Fish and chips are the very essence of Britishness, as synonymous with our islands as queuing, rain, and the phrase “mustn’t grumble”. Harry Pearson reports

The Bay in Aberdeenshire serves locally-sourced, sustainable fish and chips from its shop on the Stonehaven seafront Both London and Manchester lay claim to being the places where this perfect gastronomic marriage was first brokered. No one can be sure which of them is right, but what we do know for certain is that the tradition of deep-frying fish was imported to Britain by 17th century Jewish immigrants from the Iberian Peninsula, and that chips arrived shortly afterwards, probably with Flemish weavers who tended to serve their Belgian frites with a side order of carlin peas. ESSENTIAL GUIDE: FISH AND CHIPS The first fish and chip shops opened in the 1860s and soon the notion of The Bay’s the “fish supper” was well enough Calum Richardson established to get a mention in Oliver Twist. As the fishing fleets became Quayside fishcakes more efficient and the price of cod and haddock fell, fish and chips became an essential part of the diet of workers in the great industrial centres of Britain and chippies sprang up on practically every street corner. In the 1930s George Orwell credited them with being one of the things that kept the country from revolution, and Frankie’s Fish and Chips in World War Two, fish and chips were considered so central to national morale Scotland CAMERONS CHIP SHOP, they were exempted from rationing. In STORNOWAY the 1950s there were estimated to be FRANKIE’S FISH AND CHIPS, Traditional glass-fronted chippy in a around 35,000 chip shops in the UK. BRAE white-washed building in Point Street Today there are fewer than 10,000. Frankie’s is Britain’s most northerly fish one of Stornoway’s pedestrianised But though the chippy may be less and chip shop. Since first opening its shopping areas. Queues out of the door ubiquitous than it once was, it remains doors on 2008, this white wooden shack at busy times tell you all you need to a fundamental part of British life, as overlooking the Busta Voe has been know. Offers “cheeky chips” (chips and inseparable from our identity as garlic voted best chip shop in Scotland twice, battered sausage), as well as deep-fried is from the French, sausage from the and last year capped that by carrying off haggis. For pudding you might like to try Germans. the title of best in the UK. Sustainable the deep-fried crème egg. Then again… haddock – in portions that range from Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Stornoway the large to the positively whale-like – is the main focus, but there are also deep-fried local scallops and succulent North of England Shetland mussels, picked a few hundred yards away, for those who don’t fancy THE QUAYSIDE, WHITBY batter. For dessert try a pineapple fritter. Suggesting any fish and chip shop in Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Sumburgh Whitby is the town’s best is to guarantee and Scatsta howls of protest from all those who actually know one that is definitely better. THE BAY FISH AND CHIPS, The Magpie Café is clearly the Betty’s STONEHAVEN Tea Rooms of the bunch and none the Right on the harbour front, where the worse for that, but the Fusco brothers’ fishing boats bob against the quay, establishment scooped the prestigious The Bay opened in 2006 and owner award of Britain’s best in 2014, so let’s Calum Richardson has been garnering go along with that, shall we? The fish awards ever since, not just for the and chips are fried in beef dripping (none quality of his fish and chips but also for of that groundnut oil nonsense), the his sustainability initiatives (all the used fishcakes are home-made and you can frying fat is turned into biofuels). The Bay opt for chilli sauce if you want, though trims all its thick-cut chips on site from clearly mushy peas (or Yorkshire caviar Maris Piper and Markies potatoes, the as they are sometimes called) are the catch of the day features fish bought correct thing to have. Drink tea. Fish and chips will be on the at market that morning and there are Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees menu at The Pier, Cleethorpes great side dishes, such as homemade Valley when it opens in August. coleslaw and battered mushrooms.

48 See feature pages 10-11 Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen COLMANS, SOUTH SHIELDS UPTON CHIPPIE, J THOMPSON FISH AND CHIPS, Close by the long sandy beaches of South GAINSBOROUGH CAISTER-ON-SEA Shields, Colmans has been in business since An amazing institution, which first opened in Lovely, square stand-alone shop that has a 1906, moving to the present site in 1926. All 1948. Set in a red brick and pantile-roofed vague air of a lawn-mower repairer’s about the fish comes fresh from Sunderland and shed, the Upton Chippie is only open on Fri- it – possibly it’s the dark green woodwork North Shields and is selected each morning days. The chips are hand-cut from local Lin- and gold lettering. There’s been a fish and at market by owner Richard Ord. The daily colnshire potatoes, the fish is from Grimsby, chip shop here since 1926, when a local specials menu may feature turbot, gurnard the batter, the original 66-year-old recipe, the fisherman used to fry up his daily catch on and even the occasional lobster and the curry sauce is home-made and everything a coal-fired stove. It’s all a bit more modern whole scampi tails are terrific. Colmans has is cooked on a coal-fired range. The only now, but the Plant brothers’ fish still comes drawn praise from everybody from Tom fish and chip takeaway to earn a place in the in from Lowestoft daily and is fried to order. Parker-Bowles to David Milliband and Tony Good Food Guide – and well deserved too. As well as haddock and cod you can also Blair who is apparently a big fan too. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Humberside sample plaice, dabs and lemon sole fried on Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle the bone. Midlands and East Anglia Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich BRETTS FISH RESTAURANT, LEEDS THE COD’S SCALLOPS, THE MERCHANT FISH BAR, Bretts is tucked away up a leafy drive in NOTTINGHAM BEWDLEY Headingley. It’s a sandstone, ivy-covered Punning names have always had a plaice They do some strange things with chips in building made from two cottages, which (see what I did there?) in the world of chip the West Midlands, most notably serving stands next to a parish church and gener- shops and this is one you really have to think them “orange” (that is, dipped in batter ally looks more like a country pub in a Miss about (sadly Sweeney Cod the Frying Squad before frying to get a few extra calories Marple mystery than a fish and chip shop is no longer with us). Whatever, located in per portion). There’s none of that at the – but don’t be fooled. The 1930s dining Wollaton, The Cod’s Scallops carried off the Merchant, which focuses on the more room is oak panelled and when there’s best newcomer award in 2013. It’s modern nationally approved style. Fish includes hake, cricket on at Headingley it’s likely to be and upscale, offering wine and local real pollack and coley and draws punters from rammed full (often with half the members ale and well as Fentiman’s dandelion and around the region, including local rock god, of the Test Match Special commentary burdock (the perfect accompaniment in my Robert Plant. There are other branches in box), but there’s a takeaway round the side, view). Fish is deep fried in beef dripping and Stourbridge and Redditch. They also run and a covered area you can sit in and dine alongside the traditional cod and haddock gluten-free days for people suffering from al fresco (as they say in Yorkshire). The you’ll also find hake, gurnard and monkfish. coeliac disease. haddock is top notch and the home-made For those who don’t fancy fish there are Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Birmingham mushy peas are a real treat. black pudding fritters. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Leeds Bradford Nearest Eastern Airways airport – East Midlands South of England

Taste of the Seaside at CHEZ FRED, BOURNEMOUTH the Cod’s Scallops Owned by father-and-son team Fred and Peter Capel, Chez Fred first opened its doors in Westbourne in 1989 and has been doing a roaring trade ever since. Fat-cut chips (the variety and source is listed on a blackboard) are double-fried in rapeseed oil, Belgian- style, while the fish is fried in groundnut oil. As well as catch-of-the-day specials there’re also great home-made salmon and cod fishcakes and you can have a side order of pea fritters. For a place this far south the mushy peas are top notch too. Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton

Wales FINNEGANS, BRIDGEND Owner Huw Jones honed his skills up north before setting up Finnegans (named after an uncle who was also a chip shop owner) in 2001. The chips here are peeled and cut on the premises each day, there’s excellent cod (some of it served in batter so thin its practically non-existent), plus local delicacies, such as faggots with peas and gravy and a variety of curry sauces to splash on your chips (you can have them “cheesy” too). Finnegans has other branches in Porthcawl, Swansea and Baglan. Colmans café Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson LET ME HAMMER THIS HOME…

I am sure I am not alone in being Throwing the hammer at the Braemar disillusioned with modern athletics. In Gathering in Aberdeenshire, which takes recent years the sport has become a place this year on September 5 grotesque charade. I refer not to the champion women who may display the masculine traits associated with steroid abuse (gruff voice, bad complexion, hoarding off cuts of wood that “are bound to come in useful one day”) but to the continuing scandal of the hammer- throwers. Or, more specifically, to what they are throwing.

According to the history books the hammer-throw traces its origins to the 15th century hobby of chucking sledge- hammers. I think this is unlikely. I should imagine the hammer-throw actually came about through many decades of handymen and DIY enthusiasts lobbing the hammer aside with a frustrated yelp of “How am I supposed to bang a nail in with this damned thing?” Because, let’s “THE HIGHLAND GAMES STILL HAVE ENOUGH face it, the hammer that is hurled about by the burly denizens of “the cage” is SELF-RESPECT TO THROW A HAMMER THAT not a hammer at all, but an obscene parody. It is a 16lb iron ball attached to ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE A HAMMER.” what appears to be a surplus emergen- cy handle from an old railway carriage equivalent of the discus, but if there is between a team of vast Latvians by four feet of spring steel. It has more I’m willing to bet it is less refined, more loading immense bits of equipment in common with soap-on-a-rope than organic and in tune with the earth. A onto the back of a truck in what is either it does with the popular woodworking frozen cow-pat in all probability. “The World’s Strongest Man Team tool. Competition” – or video footage of a Unsurprisingly the popularity of the gang of robbers stealing a machine-tool Just as in the 80s when the cynical Highland Games grows ever wider. factory and saloon car racing (basically commercialisation of rock ’n’ roll led There are now more than 70 gatherings like driving on the motorway except the many people to turn their attention back in the USA alone and you will find people doing dangerous things at high to more traditional musical forms, so dedicated real hammer-throwers in speed don’t have suits hanging in the nowadays many sports fans are taking Canada, New Zealand, Australia and window and nobody takes a pit-stop to an increased interest in the sporting South Africa too. More importantly, change their magic tree air-freshener) equivalent of World Music – “roots” heavy athletics (as the Highland – the activities of the men in tartan events, such as the Highland Games. throwing events are sometimes known) glisten like a sixpence in a workhouse is making new inroads into continental Christmas pudding. The Highland Games are the Olympics Europe. These days even the Low unplugged. They are acoustic athletics. Countries host Highland Games. You should enjoy it now while you What is more, the tartan-clad giants of still can. I don’t suppose it will last. the Highland Games still have enough Much of the European success of the Popularity brings its own pressures. self-respect left to throw a hammer that Highland Games is down to the efforts In 50 years the Highland Games will actually looks like a hammer: a big lump of the often maligned Eurosport. Not doubtless have been transformed of metal stuck on the end of a stick. And for Eurosport the remorseless hype, beyond all recognition by their own that’s not all. While the ordinary athlete which characterises Sky’s football success. The caber will be made of putts a shot, the Highland athlete putts coverage. No, they adopt a more subtle carbon fibre, the wrestlers will strut a very large stone. While his everyday approach, making the Highland Games about the circle snarling at the audience counterpart is throwing a javelin, the look splendidly exciting by the simple and setting light to one another’s kilts Highlander is throwing a tree trunk. expedient of slotting them in among and the hammer will look like a chest-

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vii OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 Join today . . .

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The team at NOF Energy is excellent and clearly The biggest industry understand what they need to provide to its membership. challenge for members is We joined 2 years ago not quite too sure what to expect. What we have encountered has more than exceeded our being able to gain access to expectations and has enabled us as a business to forge relationships with others in the industry key decision-makers Richard Bradley, Finance Director, Dyer Engineering

NOF Energy is a great organisation for putting It is the old adage - big enough to cope, businesses together. The information they provide to all small enough to care members of our team is timely and of high quality. Their team is professional, knowledgeable, honest and friendly. Matt Smith, Business Development Manager, Beck Prosper The leads we get, whether from member introductions or their many events are extremely high quality Charlie Guthrie, Marketing Manager, AIS Group Another challenge for members working in the energy sector is raising awareness In a recent survey of of their products and services to NOF Energy members, over 60% the target market of respondents said they gained valuable business through using our services in the last 12 months NOF Energy has opened doors we couldn’t on our own. We are now looking at record turnover and profits we never thought possible 10 years ago

Robert Bowles, Chairman, Barrier Group Talk to the team at Offshore Europe For more information about membership, stand 1G111 please contact Paul Livingstone, about our Business Business Development Manager Development Services [email protected] an evolving landscape industry Helping the supply chain negotiate NOF ENERGYNOF their businesses. demonstrating theimpactNOFEnergy hason million-worth ofnewcontractsformembers, recent years,generatedinexcessof£167 Its highly-proactive serviceshave,over world. renewables sectorsintheUKandaround the markets intheoilandgas,nuclearoffshore has increased from membersastheytarget years asdemandforitsservicesandexpertise NOF Energy hasgrown significantlyinrecent of itsmembers. assembled andhonedtosupporttheambitions development services,whichhavebeen NOF Energy anditsproven suiteofbusiness supply chaincompaniesareto turning In thisincreasingly competitiveenvironment, operators andleadcontractors. meet thedriveforcost-savingandefficiency by innovative servicesdemonstratetheirabilityto companies withtechnology-ledsolutionsand exhibition hastakenonaddedsignificance,as As aresult, thisyear’s Offshore Europe their positioninthemarket. companies are facingfresh challengestosecure more efficient andproductive, supplychain oil priceandthesector’s drivetobecome its evolvinglandscape,impactedbythecyclical As theoffshore industrycomestotermswith Paul Livingstone George Rafferty, Clare Weirs, L-R Caroline Lofthouse,JoanneLengMBE,

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ix OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 1965 1975 1985

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Today, 50 years on, Great Yarmouth Looking to the next 50 years, there is and Lowestoft are recognised as a an increasing focus on prolonging the global energy sector capital – alongside life of North Sea oil and gas assets, Aberdeen in Scotland and Houston in either bringing drilling rigs in for major Texas – and has prospects of sharing refurbishments or upgrading platforms On September 17, 1965, offshore in £50bn of investment in energy in the in situ – offering a whole new range of workers drilling in the North Sea made a East of England over the next 20 years, commercial opportunities, even before discovery of national importance – one including oil and gas exploration, gas decommissioning. that put the historic Norfolk coastal storage and platform decommissioning, port and resort of Great Yarmouth at and offshore wind farms. Great Yarmouth is the base for all the centre of a massive investment and construction and subsequent operations jobs boom which continues to this day. Great Yarmouth’s technicians are and maintenance activity for the renowned for their expertise all Dudgeon Offshore Wind Farm. Further Workers aboard BP’s 5,600-ton around the world and the supply opportunities will also arise from the East drilling rig, Sea Gem, first became chain of companies is sizeable. Anglia ONE Windfarm, with construction excited when the drilling fluid Nearly 7,000 people work directly in expected to start in 2017. returning from the bottom of the well energy and related fields, such as was tending to froth and bubble, and manufacturing, technical services • More information available at the dials began to flicker. and utilities. www.theenergyzone.co.uk

Drilling continued to a depth of 10,000ft, For many firms with the sought-after Great • Businesses interested in finding

and by the end of 1965 a 12-metre high Yarmouth postcodes, one fifth of their out more about opportunities in

flare was burning at the top of the rig – a business relates to Southern North Sea Great Yarmouth can call Toby

beacon of the discovery of gas in the gas, with their other operations spread Matthews, on 01493 846431, or Southern North Sea. globally and often across the sector. Peter Wright, on 01493 846522.

Retired energy sector worker, Nick that came in the first place came from Pownall, remembers the early days America, but in a very short time the tail of offshore gas exploration off Great was wagging the dog. Yarmouth. “They were saying what they wanted Nick, 86, of Great Yarmouth, said the and it was Yarmouth engineering firms industry’s arrival was a “life-saver” for that were making it and supplying firms. the borough, bringing a jobs boom in I was always very proud of what this the late 1960s and early 1970s as the town was able to produce.”

historic herring trade declined. Great Yarmouth Mercury Photo courtesy of the

During his 20-year career, the professional diver set up diving Great Yarmouth Mercury Photo courtesy of the equipment supply bases for four separate businesses.

He said: “The sector brought employment, money, industry – and the interesting thing was, that the expertise Images by Mike Page RATERELIEF ON OFFER lived inAberdeen for20years,said:“It’s very Chief Executive,MartinSisley, whopreviously oil andgasservices,marinerenewables. Red7Marine Offshore isaprovider ofoffshore base according toenergy sectorexecutives. effective thanareas suchasAberdeen fora a skilledworkforce butare alsomore cost- Great Yarmouth andLowestoftnotonlyhave BEACON PARK: FIVE YEARS’ PARK:BEACON FIVE YEARS’ A COST EFFECTIVE LOCATION one ofthelatestenergy sector occupiers, Phil Crane,ofPentagonFreight Services, Oil Tools, ElmdaleandSMS. Cebo UKLtd,MagmaProducts, CIS,Probe Power (EastAnglia)Ltd,MacLeanElectrical, include NOVHydra-Rig,ElectroTech, Diesel Energy sectorbusinessesatBeaconPark industrial unitsare available. A rangeofhigh-specificationoffice and planning, andsuper-fast broadband. £275,000 overfiveyears,simplified a discountonbusinessratesofupto businesses tohelpthemgrow, including a rangeofbenefitsforenergy-related Anglia) EnterpriseZone,whichprovides the Great Yarmouth andLowestoft(New This premier businessparkispartof Yarmouth Borough Council. sectors, includingfrom theownerGreat to investmentfrom theprivateandpublic expanding energy businesses–thanks Beacon Parkisarapidly-growing hubfor 1995 • development.” chain whoare movingto theBeaconPark businesses intheenergy sectorsupply to ourownspecification,closeother given theopportunitytodesignalayout building onBeaconPark,wehavebeen said: “Withthepurchase ofthenew to project costsandcommunication.” client baseandthat’s importantinrelation North Sea closer contactwithourSouthern In addition,thearea allowsustohave Aberdeen andthetalentpoolhere isdeep. “Costs are certainlylowercompared to Managing Director, PaulRushton,said: Great Yarmouth. investment initsBeaconParkfacility recently madeasignificantsix-figure helped attractMagmaProducts which The area’s lowoperatingcostshavealso the qualityofstaff isequallyhigh.” because Ithinkthecostoflivingislower, but employ peopleislesshere, significantlyless, yard spaceare allcheaper. Thecostto are cheaper;warehousing, office space, “Great Yarmouth’s cheaper–businessrates director inacompanyAberdeen before. noticeable formebecauseIwasamanaging

620551), orvisitwww.beaconpark.co.uk Keys(01603 844489) andArnolds agents, Bycroft Commercial (01493 Beacon Parkcancontacttheappointed Businesses interested inmovingto 2005 Proud to bepartofthe: you seriously.” Yarmouth –theytake you’ve gottobeinGreat NorthSea, in thesouthern if youare goingtobeoperating investment anddoingbusinesses, “And from thepointofview of get anyworkdone. to gooutsidea20-mileradius right here –sorarely dowehave engineering expertiseweneed “We’ve gotallthelocal supply shipseveryday. are puttingequipmentonandoff the portandlogistics–we main reason westayisverymuch Support Manager, said:“The Graham Lincoln,theBusiness Great Yarmouth headquarters. and todayemploys72staff atits services, hascontinuedtogrow, and repair, andvalvehealthcare oil andgaswellheadmaintenance The business,whichoperatesin Petroleum ServicesLtd. to theborough in1967asEDECO Europe Limited,whichfirstmoved Yarmouth isSIMMONSEDECO energy sectorfirmsinGreat Among thelongest-established

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OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 sector. Peter Jackson reports… UK engineering and manufacturing delivering huge for the opportunities power generationa programme gets the go-ahead itwould kick-start If amajor infrastructure project This summer the Government will make a decision on a £1bn willmakeadecisionon£1bn This summertheGovernment range duringspringtidesof 8.5m. world and,withinthis,SwanseaBayseesanaveragetidal Estuaryhasthesecondhighest tidalrangeinthe The Severn advantage.’’ have asustainablewaytomakethemostofthisnatural resource inEurope andthesecondbestworldwide.We now with fossilfuelornucleargeneration.We havethebesttidal electricity from ouramazingtidalrangeatacostcomparable infrastructure givestheUKanopportunitytogenerate Chief ExecutiveMarkShorrock says:“Full-scaletidallagoon the lagoonwouldbeoperationalfor120years. The companybehindthescheme,TidalLagoonPower, says 175,000 homesandsaving236,000tonnesofCO2annually. a day, 365daysayear, providing enoughelectricitytopower tidalpower,harness wouldhavea320MWcapacity14hours The scheme,fortheworld’s firstgiantman-madelagoonto lagoon electricitygenerationsschemeinSwanseaBay. for aContractDifference, CfD,subsidytosupportatidal isduetoruleontheapplication In August,theGovernment thousands ofjobsandhugeopportunitiesforUKengineering. power generationproject which,itisclaimed,wouldprovide “The constructionmethodologiesare fairlystandard, butit’s annual outputofapproximately 495gigawatthours. capacity of320MW, from whichcanbeextracted anet maximum outputof20MW, todeliveramaximumgenerating Tidal LagoonPowerplanstoinstall16turbines,eachwitha moon.’’ said: “It’s effectively theenergy aboutharnessing from the Ioan Jenkins,DevelopmentDirector atTidalLagoonEnergy hours perday. the ebbtide,fourtimesadayintotal,forapproximately 14 Electricity generationwillhappenonboththefloodtideand reverse ontheebbtide. The sluicegatesare thenclosedandthisprocess occursin flows through turbinesintothelagoontogenerateelectricity. difference isreached, thesluicegatesare openedandwater in waterlevelsoneithersideoftheseawall.Onceasufficient back andrisesaround thelagoon.Thiscreates adifference sluice gatesare closedandtheseaoutsidewallisheld by sluicegates.Whenthefloodtidestartstocomein, when waterflowspasttheirblades.Thisflowismanaged are housedseveralhydro-turbines, whichgenerateelectricity A tidallagooniscreated byaman-madebreakwater, inwhich >>

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Engineering Better Design Team of The Year Find out more www.houlderltd.com +44 (0)191 536 2777 “WE HAVE“WE THE BEST TIDAL RESOURCE IN EUROPE THE AND SECOND MOST OF THIS NATURALADVANTAGE.’’ BEST WORLDWIDE. WE HAVE NOW A SUSTAINABLE WAY TO THE MAKE contract forfiveyears. and Andritzhavealsowonthe operation andmaintenance works, turbinehousing,ancillaryworksandbuildings.GE announced willbethepreferred biddersforthewall,marine bidders forthepowergenerationelement.Soontobe GE andAndritzHydro have beennamedasthepreferred lagoon technology, manufacture, constructionanddesign.’’ point where theUKandWales becomegloballeadersintidal within theUK,thatwedrivepercentage upwards tothe has tobeanambition,withthesupportofsupplychain 65 percentwithintheUK,’’ saysJenkins.“Thereafter there £1bn weare determined to spend50percentinWales, and “Our commitmentintermsofSwanseaBayisthatthe that theywillcreate 35,000jobs. project andtheotherfiveplannedlagoons.Itisestimated won bycompaniesthroughout theUKonbothSwansea But there willbeanenormousamountofbusinessto visitor centre andancillarybuildingcomponents. electrical controls, hydraulics,precast concrete components, it couldsource turbinehousings,sluicegates,flooddoors, component parts. Itbelievesthat,from theimmediatearea, much aspossibleforthemanufacture andassemblyofthe Lagoon Powersaysitwantstouselocalbusinessesas South Wales organisations are already involvedandTidal companies tobecomeinvolvedinthesupplychain.Several The Swanseaproject alonepresents great opportunitiesfor renewable sources by2020. commitment todeliver15percentofitsenergy needsfrom going alongwaytowards meetingtheUK’s legally-binding lagoons wouldprovide aboutsixpercentoftheUK’s energy, Bridgewater, ColwynBayandWest Cumbria.Thesesix The firstwaveoflagoonswillbe:Swansea,Cardiff, Newport, significantly bigger.’’ 12 years.EachofthoselagoonsafterSwanseawouldbe to deliver, aswellSwansea,anotherfivelagoonswithin can buildtidallagoons,’’ saysJenkins.“We are onamission 15 opportunitieswithintheUK,where weorsomebodyelse Tidal LagoonPowerthroughout theUK.“We thinkthere are T Jenkins. the firsttimethey’vebeenbrought togetherinthisway,’’ says he Swanseaschemeisonlyoneofanumberplannedby get thisrightintheUK,thatsupply chainwilltravel.’’ the future, there areopportunities. Ifwe hugeinternational an eventforTidalLagoonPower, adds:“Lookingfurtherinto development organisation NOFEnergy, whichrecently hosted And JoanneLengMBE,DeputyChiefExecutiveofbusiness from theUKacross tothosecountries.’’ director. So there’s a great opportunity to take this knowledge from Canadaandwehave justappointedaninternational China, wehavehadinterest from India,wehavehad interest looking atopportunitiesinFrance,wehavehadinterest from build lagoons,orsomebodycan,’’ saysJenkins.“We are “We believethere are 50locationsworldwidewhere wecan itself, butalsoforUKindustry. The companyargues thattheprizeisenormous,notjustfor 2018 andNewportin2019. generated three yearslater. Work wouldstartonCardiff in on Swanseawouldstartinearly2016,withpowerbeing If TidalLagoonPowerdoesgetthegreen light,buildingwork much longerlife. decommissioning costsofnuclearpowerandtheyhavea of energy butsaysthattidallagoonsdon’t havethehuge supportofaroundgovernment £90-£95permegawatthour bigger energy lagoonsnearCardiff andNewportwouldneed reactor atHinckley. TidalLagoonPowerestimatesthatthe agreedthe government topaydevelopersofanewnuclear hour ofenergy, for 35years–farhigherthanthe£92.50 The companyisaskingforaCfDof£168permegawatt Jenkins says:“WithouttheCfDnoneofthishappens.’’ decision ontheCfD. All eyesareanditsanticipated nowontheGovernment cent UKcontent. in theUKandAndritzhascommittedtoaminimum53per Wear. GEhassaiditwillsource everythingforthegenerator for thisworkliesinSouthYorkshire, Tees Valley andTyne and machining, paintingandfabrication.Muchofthecapability There willbeworkincasting,forging, pressing, welding, and switchgears. next 12years,alongwithgenerators,cables,transformers For thesixlagoons,600turbineswillbeneededwithin product oftheturbinesincludingsolarpanelsonroof. or transferred through recycling wasteenergy asaby- energy required beingcaptured from renewable sources cycle andelectricbus.Itwillbeself-sufficient withall of thelagoon’s seawallwithaccessforvisitorsbyfoot, form andfeatures ofanoyster, willbesitedattheend exhibition space.Thebuilding,whichreflects thenatural galleries, acafé,lecture theatre, educationalrooms and and leisure baseforlocalpeopleandvisitorswithpublic maintenance buildingwillprovide aneducational,cultural The scheme’s offshore visitor, operationsand

xvii OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 Gas turbine auxiliary equipment, repair, retrofit, refurbishment and upgrade solutions AAF is the leading global supplier of gas turbine auxiliary equipment, including air intake filtration, anti-ice, inlet cooling, combustion air intake systems, hot gas exhaust systems, gas turbine (GT) and generator enclosures, ventilation systems and support structure & access equipment.

We supply equipment to all the major gas turbine OEMs, from small to large gas turbines of both aero and industrial derivatives, and through our Aftermarket group we provide repair, retrofit, refurbishment and upgrades of AAF and non-AAF origin auxiliary equipment.

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AAF is the global market leader in (H)EPA technology for gas turbines, dating back to the first ever gas turbine (H)EPA installation in 1988. Titan 130 compressor blades: AAF (H)EPA technology can now be found on both onshore and offshore Protected by standard OEM filtration applications on a range of aero and industrial gas turbines, from SGT100 (Typhoon) gas turbines to Frame 9FA gas turbines.

8,000 hours operation with frequent offline water washes Protected by AAF offshore E12 (H)EPA filtration

Compressor efficiency can be linked to the cleanliness of the compressor Operation with off line water washes at blades. Utilising (H)EPA filtration AAF aims to provide the critical filtration 4,000 hours intervals efficiency required to remove sub-micron sized contaminants from gas Frame 9FA compressor blades: turbine combustion air intakes resulting in laboratory clean air. Protected by standard OEM filtration (H)EPA-class filtration or, more accurately, clean air delivered consistently and reliably offers the turbine operator numerous realisable and proven benefits that can be reduced to a set of assured economics which has huge financial and technical benefits summarised below:

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For more information on AAF International or to discuss the benefits of (H)EPA technology on gas turbines, please contact Michael Dixon. We will also be available at SPE Offshore Europe 2015 Stand 1C82. 8,000 hours operation and zero off line water washes Europe & North Africa AAF Ltd Bassington Lane, Cramlington, Northumberland, NE23 8AF, UK Tel +44 (0) 1670 591754 Fax +44 (0) 1670 566321 [email protected] www.aafgtsolutions.com GAS TURBINE B ETTER AIR IS OUR BUSINESS ® SOLUTIONS xx

OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 OFFSHOREEUROPE 2015 and gas conference and exhibition and gas conference andexhibition the world’s largest upstream oil to-attend global biennial event, people andtechnology. Thisfree- generation” –intermsofboth theme of“howtoinspire thenext aims toaddress withaconference this year’s SPEOffshore Europe industry’s mainchallenges,which But theseare alsotwoof the technologies. people anddevelopingsmarter attracting andretaining the right for itsproducts andservices: factors tohelpmeetglobaldemand industry dependsontwokey The future oftheoilandgas Tricia Marshall previews LOOKING TO THE THE TO LOOKING SPE SPE technologies are essential for the technologies are essential forthe people anddeveloping new skilled, innovative andmotivated world’s energy by2040.Sourcing will stillsupplyaround halfofthe Energy Outlook2014,oiland gas EnergyInternational Agency’s World to come.According tothe prosperity formanydecades securing heat,light,mobilityand indispensable totheworldfor conditions, oilandgaswillremain Despite thecurrent toughmarket 8-11 2015. Conference Centre from September at theAberdeen Exhibition and outside NorthAmerica,willbeheld Offshore Europe,which aims to inspire generation the next FUTURE supply and consumeraffordability. over climatechange, securityof demand whilebalancing concerns basic challengeofmeetingenergy feature 11sessionsfocusingonthe The keynoteprogramme will bright future. over andthatithasalong will bethattheindustryisfarfrom breakfast briefings.Akey message sessions, topicallunchesand of keynotesessions,technical conference there willbeaseries Over thefourdaysof this demand. industry tobesuccessfulinmeeting >>

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OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 “RESPECT OTHER’S FOR EACH OPINIONS SOLUTIONS, AND HOWEVER FACILITATES PROGRESS.” FROM OWN,DIFFERENT OUR IS WHAT AND HELPS THE DIALOGUE industry and forms another strand of industry andformsanotherstrand of also fundamentaltothefuture ofthe challenging locationsandreservoirs is access resources from increasingly The developmentoftechnologyto acceptable anduseful.” Our activitiesmustberegarded asboth hydrocarbons onwhichthe worldrelies. about theindustry’s operationsandthe on addressing society’s concerns licence tooperateultimatelydepends of Oil&GasProducers, comments: “Our Director Association oftheInternational SPE Offshore Europe 2015andExecutive Michael Engell-Jensen,KeynoteChairof regulatorsgovernment andacademia. well astradeassociationrepresentatives, operating companiesandcontractors,as senior representatives from international industry. Speakerswillcompriseamixof inspiring thenextgenerationtojoin investments; oilspillresponse; and assets; wellintervention;financing the safetyandsecurityofpeople Topics tobeaddressed include:health; industry.” ensures continuedprogress withinour 2015, wewilldeliveraconference that within thefabricofSPEOffshore Europe parallel. Byembeddingthisapproach challenges, toaddress both aspectsin based onbothpeopleandtechnical “For thefirsttimeweare including papers next generationoftalentintoourindustry. better waystoattractandencouragethe technology andinnovation,wemustfind continue topushtheboundariesof Charles Woodburn, adds: “Whilewe and ChiefExecutiveOfficer ofExpro, Technical ChairofSPEOffshore Europe decommissioning. gas development,process safety, and talent development,unconventional pipelines andrisers,subseaprocessing, recovery, smarterfielddevelopment, and wellintegrity, maximisingeconomic days, coveringtopicssuchasasset papers willbepresented overthefour generation. More than100technical the event’s focusoninspiringthenext global projects. Earlyfeedbackfrom a supplierofservicesandproducts to Aberdeen’s established reputation as oilfield servicecompanies,consolidating operators, drillingcontractorsand supply chainofcompaniesincluding Exhibitors willrepresent thecomplete exhibiting forthefirsttimeatshow. least 280companies,large andsmall, are expectedthisyear, includingat and expertise.Around 1500 organisations showcasing theirtechnologies,services companies from around theworld, range ofexplorationandproduction The exhibitionspacewillincludeadiverse and facilitatesprogress,” hestates. from ourown,iswhathelpsthedialogue opinions andsolutions,howeverdifferent discussion. “Respectforeachother’s collaborative working,andlively created through shared experiences, and theindustryasawhole–canbe where thefuture –forbothindividuals on health,seestheeventasaforum Saipem andChairofakeynotesession Frano Mika,HealthSystemManagerfor US$210 billionfrom 2015to2019. the preceding five-yearperiod,totalling increase by69percent,compared with still expectsdeep-waterexpenditure to Douglas Westwood report ofApril2015 the sanctioningofcertainprojects, a pressures onoperatorbudgetsdeferring rewarding –environments. Despite harsh –yetpotentiallycommercially one oftheworld’s mostchallenging, helping theindustryadvanceinto the lateststate-of-the-arttechnologies The DeepwaterZoneisdedicatedto Arabia, andNorway. Kazakhstan, Nigeria,Mexico,Saudi include Brazil,EastAfrica,Azerbaijan, regions thatare likelytoberepresented their respective markets.Countriesand the opportunitiesthatexistineachof to meetwithUKcompaniesdiscuss around theglobewillalsobeavailable & Investmentcommercial officers from Malaysia, NigeriaandKorea. UKTrade Large delegationsare expectedfrom pavilionsbookedsofar.33 international exhibitorpresence,international with industry asawhole,there willbealarge Reflective oftheglobalnature ofthe projects allovertheworld. proportion ofthemare engagedon registered visitorsindicatesthatalarge supported by OPITO, will allow students supported byOPITO,willallowstudents week, organised inadvancebySPEand events andworkshopsthroughout the for ayoungeraudience.Awiderangeof its largest everprogramme ofactivities pipeline, theeventwillberunningInspire, long-term needforasecure talent With itsemphasisonrecognising the and inspectionservices. products, specialistmaterialsolutions, vehicles towellcontrol andintervention valves, imagingsystemsandunderwater These rangefrom equipmentsuchas their latestproducts andservices. this rapidlyevolvingsectorwilldisplay to date,more than30companiesfrom In theevent’s largest DeepwaterZone in asafeandcost-effective manner. exploitation ofresources from deepwater technologies thatwill enablethe repair andmaintenance,emerging developments, thefuture ofinspection, Topics willincludedeep-water Society forUnderwaterTechnology. programmed bySubseaUKandthe developments inthesector, withcontent aboutsomeoftheverylatest learn will giveattendeestheopportunityto participating inpaneldiscussions.This experts presenting casestudiesand A dedicatedtheatre willhostindustry more informationandtoregister. www.offshore-europe.co.ukVisit for technology.” friends andtocatchuponthelatest great meetingplacetoseeoldandnew for Trelleborg Offshore, sumsup:“A world. AsJohnDeasey, SalesManager catch upwithcolleaguesfrom around the be ampleopportunitiestonetworkand influencers underoneroof, there will With somanyindustryleadersand to theexhibitionfloor. via classroom sessionsaswellvisits demonstrations ofpossibleexperiments advice aboutteachingscienceand programme Energy4Me willoffer practical And forschoolteachers,theSPE Aberdeen SectionYoung Professionals. activities beingarrangedbytheSPE day toparticipateinaprogramme of schoolchildren willalsobeinvitedeach Friday keynotesession.Anumberof attendance attheopeningplenaryand of lectures, games,networking,and Summit willincludeaprogramme event, theSPEStudentDevelopment Running throughout thefourdaysof moreand learn abouttheindustry. to engagewiththeindustryface-to-face

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OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 the offshore industry… field of environmental monitoring for for marine inthe biologists important Isabella Abbott discovers opportunities indicate thepresence offuel.When usingsuchsurvey the seafloor. Differences inthedegree ofpenetration may frequency soundandapressure wave,whichpenetrates underwater which, whentheycollapse,generate aloud,low towed behindasurveyboat.Theairguns create bubbles series ofcylinderscontainingcompressed air–“airguns” of anacousticenergy pulse into thewatercolumnfrom a gas undertheseabed.Aseismic surveyinvolvestherelease Seismic surveysare oftenusedtoidentifyreserves ofoiland came in. the marineenvironment. This iswhere thisparticularcourse thought tobedamagingandcauseacousticdisturbance the seafloor–suchasseismicsurveysanddrilling to locate(andsubsequentlyextract)fuelsfrom beneath Some prospecting methods usedbytheoilandgasindustry today comprisesmore than 100companiesworldwide. gas industryintheNorthSeaformore than45yearsand Group, acompanywhich hasbeenoperatingintheoiland with Gardline Environmental, amemberoftheGardline marine mammalsandturtles.Ihadsigneduptoacourse peering downapairofbinocularsatthewaterlookingfor of aferry, somewhere betweenPortsmouthand Santander, And soIfoundmyselfclingingontotherailingsatstern again inachievingit. that adoorwasreopened andIsawhowcouldbeproactive met anoffshore engineerworkingonshipslooking foroil, completely, itwasn’t untilafriendtoldmeabout howshe’d passed byquicklyandalthoughInevergaveuponmydream at thefirstplacethatwouldhaveme.Somehowayear neither jobnormoneysoIacceptedadecentlypaidposition with mymovetoLondonandIsoonfoundmyselfwithout but tonoavail.Iprobably shouldnothavebeenashasty I scouredandappliedforjobsonmydaysoff theInternet repay mydebts. back inwithmyparents andwasworkinginarestaurant to options thesummerafterleavinguniversity:Ihadmoved degree, letaloneoneinMarineBiology. Ihad explored my from myfieldIwasembarrassedtotellpeoplehada lot ofgraduatestoday, inLondondoingajobsofarremoved with agooddegree inMarineBiology, Ifound myself, likea Two yearsaftergraduatingfrom theUniversityofPlymouth mammals andturtlesisaprofession. For others,however, observingwhalesandothermarine creatures. out –arare opportunitytogetclosenature’s mystical but, more likely, indulgedinonholidayorasaspecialday For mostpeople,whale-watchingisnotaneverydayevent – are www.intelligentocean.com www.scanningoceansectors.com based-marine-mammal-observation www.gardlinemarinesciences.com/services/oil-gas/field- at thefollowingwebsites. More informationonJNCCapproved coursescanbefound certainly hasitsappeal. be alifeforthefaint-heartedor thosewithoutsealegs,butit for theenvironment. Spending fiveweeksatseawouldn’t world forfiveweeksatatimedoingsomethingworthwhile qualified youcouldfindyourselfonaboatanywhere inthe Marine Biologyoranequivalentsubjectisrequired butonce to observe.BecomingaMMOisnoeasytask:degree in activity duringthenightwhenMMOsare nolongerable Operatives, whocarryoutacousticmonitoringofmammal as PassiveAcousticMonitoringSystems(PAMS) andPAMS obliged tohaveenvironmental staff includingMMOs,aswell However, companiesusingsuchsurveymethods are legally experienced myself. which canbequiteconsiderable.ButthisisnotsomethingI crew onboard, forwhomdelayshaveafinancialimplication, create potentialriftsbetweentheenvironmental team andthe will beprovided totheJNCC.Haltingthesesurveyscould surveying canresume. Insuchanevent,MMOReport crew onboard todelayactivityandgivingtheall-clear when an hour. Theoffshore MMOisresponsible fornotifyingthe a prescribed periodoftime,rangingfrom halfand hour to has beennosightingofanymammalwithinthisarea for is recorded andtheseismicsurveysare delayeduntilthere observed withinacertainradiusofthevessel,sighting the wateraround thesurveyvessels.Ifamammalis MMOs are usuallyrequired towork12-hourshiftsmonitoring on marinemammalsandwildlife. minimise theimpactofactivitiesoilandgasindustry environmental companieslikeGardline Environmental, to Observer (MMO).Thisisarole integraltotheefforts of identification, necessarytoqualifymeasaMarineMammal theskills,suchasspecies On thiscourse,Iwaslearning the acousticcommunicationsofthesecreatures. release ofpressure underwatercouldpotentiallyinterfere with understood, onetheoryisthatthenoisecreated bythe effect ofseismicsurveysonmarinemammalsisnotfully Although there hasbeenonlylimitedresearch andthe injury tomarinemammals. Committees (JNCC)tominimisetheriskofdisturbanceand to followguidelinescreated bytheJointNature Conservation methods inUKwaters,companieshavealegalresponsibility OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015

Clockwise from left: Short-beaked Common Dolphins offshore UK waters in June 2008 (Katt Preston). Isabella Abbott uses a hand made gauge to measure the distance from boat to mammal. Sperm Whale spotted to the West of Shetland in August 2013 (Sam Parker).

COMPANIES HAVE A LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY TO FOLLOW GUIDELINES CREATED BY THE JOINT NATURE CONSERVATION COMMITTEES (JNCC) TO MINIMISE THE RISK OF DISTURBANCE AND INJURY TO MARINE MAMMALS. xxvii We strengthen our UK presence and have successfully opened a new Aberdeen office. Join us at stand 1C59 Offshore Europe.

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www.sbvengineering.co.uk Engineering Limited T +44 (0) 1642 452 399 SECURING THE FUTURE secure thelong-termfuture oftheUKindustry. Attheheart areindustry andgovernment nowworkingtogethertotry global oilprice,alltheotherfactorscanbeaddressed and However, whileitmaynotbepossibletoinfluencethe scenario, evenbefore the priceplunge. Add tothemixapunishingtaxregime anditwasagloomy since 1965. to declineandexplorationdrillingfallingitslowestlevel Efficiency wasatarecord low, withproduction continuing a more rapidrisethananywhere elseontheglobe. raising theproduction costofabarrel ofoilorgas to$30– with costs,whichhaddoubledovertheprevious fiveyears, Long before theslump,UKindustrywasstruggling resolved. 440,000 pepleacross thewholeofUK,wouldnotbe of theindustry, whichprovides employmentforaround barrel, asitwaslittlemore thanayearago,theproblems Even ifthepriceofoilwere tosoarbackover$100a Smith it isageneration could significantly be the industry for which different. Graeme Generationthe Next potentially –and with momentous changes inthe pipeline The theme for thisSeptember’sOffshore Europe conference is How to Inspire reports… continental shelf(UKCS)couldmeandifficulty insecuring a lossofconfidenceinthefuture potentialoftheUK leading totheirpremature decommissioning.Similarly, current fields,makingthemunattractivetoinvestorsand costs andfallingprofits couldreduce theprofitability of Samuel hasidentifiedtworisksforurgent attention.Rising to work. managers havealsobeenappointedandare gettingdown Chief ExecutiveAndySamuelandthedirectors andsenior Oil andGasAuthority(OGA),isnowinplace,headedby The newregulatory body. whichSirIanrecommended, the were introduced intheMarch Budget. allowances saidtobeworth£1.3bnoverfiveyears,which strengthened bytaxratereductions andinvestment The platformfrom whichtobuildwassignificantly Sir IanWood lastyear. Recovery from theUK),basedonwatershedreport by of thisjointapproach isMERUK(MaximisingtheEconomic >>

xxix OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 xxx

OFFSHORE EUROPE 2015 2013 but,toachievefurthergains,bestpracticeindelivering Production efficiency hasincreased byfivepercentsince to benchmarktheirratesusingup-to-dateinformation. paid toindependentcontractors,whichwillallowcompanies Among themeasures beingtakenisasurveyofdailyrates the UKCS. fundamental behavioursthathavedrivencostescalationon now alsoaconcertedeffort toworktogethertacklethe hundreds, ifnotthousands,ofjobshavegone–there is were havingtobemadebyindividualcompanies–and that althoughtoughdecisionsonresources andprojects Oonagh Werngren, Oil&GasUK’s OperationsDirector, said quality ofdataavailabletoindustryandtheOGA. and underexplored areas oftheUKCS,andimprove the encourage aprogramme ofseismicacquisitioninfrontier with operatingcompaniestorevitalise explorationactivity, confidence andsecures sustainedinvestment.Itwillwork develops andimplementsafiscalregime thatinstils The OGAwillalsobeworkingwithHMTreasury asit reduction measures are sustainable. trainee andgraduateschemestoensure efficiency andcost is recommending thatcompaniesretain apprenticeship, in operatingefficiency and,atthesametime,OGA improvement plans,targeting a30-40percentimprovement Operating companieswillberequired toprepare asset economic assessments”ofthemainproduction hubs. steps toprotect criticalinfrastructure, preceded by“rigorous The OGAisworkingurgently withoperatingcompanieson recovery. the long-terminvestmentneededtomaximisefuture the increased tax. the keytomore reservoirs, theTreasury wouldbenefitfrom invest innewtechnologybecauseultimatelyifitcanunlock shouldconsiderincentivisingoperatorsto Government Neil Gordon, ChiefExecutiveofSubseaUK,believesthe communities. assets through consultationwithoperatorandsupplychain from implementingnewtechnologyinmanaginglate-life Sea toidentifythebarriersthatcurrently prevent the industry Arup hasbeenappointedbyOil&GasUKandDecomNorth Everyone hasaparttoplay.” behavioural changeneededtomakethevisionareality. “The sectornowhastodelivertheboldactionand less than$20perbarrel,” saidMsWerngren. chain providing astrong engineforgrowth, withliftingcosts maximising recovery oftheUK’s oilandgas,asupply “Our visionfor2020isanindustryactivelyexploringand standardisation willachieveimprovements inefficiency. and trainingprocesses toidentifypriorityareas, where Step ChangeinSafetyislookingatcontrol ofwork replacement pump. operator toavoida13-weekleadtimefordeliveryofthe continuation ofwellproduction for18weeks,allowingthe pump exchangebetweentwooperators,whichenabledthe to reduce production downtime.Oneexampleisarecent replacement equipmenttobesourced quicklyandefficiently parts heldininventoriesacross thesector, whichwillallow Oil &GasUKhasalsoestablishedadatabaseofspare working group forpublicationthissummer. planned shutdownsisbeingcollatedbyanOil&GasUK Neil Gordon, Chief Executive of Subsea UK

“ MONEY IS NOT BEING SPENT LOOKING FOR NEW OIL AND GAS AND PART OF THE REASON IS THE HIGH COST INVOLVED IN DOING THAT IN THE UK.”

“There are a lot of smaller companies, which develop technology but can’t get it over the line,” he said. “Money is not being spent looking for new oil and gas and part of the reason is the high cost involved in doing that in the UK.

“There are perhaps easier places to invest around the world so, with the election out of the way, although the Government has looked at some of the taxation side, they need to look how to encourage investment.

“The Norwegian model, with much more tax relief up- front, is a good example and one they might learn from.”

New Energy and Climate Change Secretary Amber Rudd responded: “The North Sea is an important UK economic success story and one of my top priorities will be to work with all parties to ensure a strong industry that continues to support thousands of Scottish jobs.

“Earlier this year the Government announced it was reforming the fiscal system, delivering significant tax breaks and giving the North Sea a new lease of life. We also provided a £20m fund to further explore the full potential of our North Sea assets, which will lead to a 15 per cent increase in production by the end of the decade.” FIND YOUR COMPETITIVE EDGE AT PORT OF TYNE Only 130 nautical miles from Aberdeen and with a customer satisfaction rating of 97%, the Port of Tyne is the ideal partner to help businesses grow stronger and leaner.

IDEALLY LOCATED • EXPERTLY EQUIPPED • COST EFFECTIVE MEET US AT Let’s talk opportunities now. SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE Call us on 0330 024 0965 (ABERDEEN) or visit www.offshoretyne.com 8-11 SEPT