Provence & Southeast France Road Trips 1

PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE ROAD TRIPS

This edition written and researched by Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Emilie Filou, Donna Wheeler, Nicola Williams

000-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd0-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd 1 220/02/20150/02/2015 11:23:3211:23:32 AMAM HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews Top Tips Food & In the Destinations section: K Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping

Map Legend

Routes Trips Trip Route Trip 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Numbers Trip Detour 1 Beaches Eating Linked Trip #9 Trip Stop r 5 Walk Route Activities Drinking Tollway 2 Walking tour 2 6 Freeway Trip Detour Courses Entertainment Primary C 3 Secondary Route Markers Tours Shopping Tertiary T 7 E44 Lane E-road network M100 National network Festivals Information Unsealed Road z & Events 8 & Transport Plaza/Mall Hydrography Steps River/Creek Tunnel Intermittent River Pedestrian Overpass Swamp/Mangrove These symbols and abbreviations give Walk Track/Path Canal vital information for each listing: Water Boundaries Dry/Salt/ International Intermittent Lake State/Province Glacier % Telephone # Pet-friendly Cliff number Areas g Bus Wall Beach h Opening hours f Ferry Population Cemetery p Parking (Christian) j Tram Capital (National) Cemetery (Other) n Nonsmoking d Train Capital (State/Province) Park a Air-conditioning apt apartments City/Large Town Forest i Internet access Town/Village Urban Area d double rooms W Wi-ﬁ access Transport Sportsground dm dorm beds Airport s Swimming pool q quad rooms Cable Car/ v Vegetarian selec- r rooms Funicular tion Parking s single rooms Train/Railway E English-language menu ste suites Tram tr triple rooms Underground c Family-friendly Train Station tw twin rooms 2

000-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd0-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd 2 220/02/20150/02/2015 11:23:4011:23:40 AMAM CONTENTS

Arles ...... 65 PPLANLAN YYOUROUR TTRIPRIP Camargue ...... 73 Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer ...... 74 St-Rémy de Provence ...... 77 Welcome to Provence & Southeast France ...... 5 Orange ...... 79 Provence & Vaison-la-Romaine ...... 81 Southeast France Map ...... 6 Mont Ventoux & Around ...... 82 Provence & Southeast France Highlights ...... 8 The Luberon ...... 84 Paris City Guide ...... 10 Apt ...... 84 Nice City Guide ...... 12 Gordes ...... 85 Need to Know ...... 14 Roussillon ...... 86 St-Saturnin-lès-Apt & Around .... 87 Northeastern Provence ...... 88 RROADOAD TTRIPSRIPS Pays de Forcalquier ...... 88 Vallée de la Durance ...... 88 The French Riviera ...... 89 Roman 1 Provence 7 Days 19 Nice ...... 89 Vence ...... 102 Lavender 2 Route 4–5 Days 27 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins ...... 103 Modern Art Menton ...... 104 3 Meander 7 Days 35

The 4 Camargue 4 Days 43 RROADOAD TTRIPRIP EESSENTIALSSSENTIALS

DDESTINATIONSESTINATIONS France Driving Guide ...... 107

Nîmes & Around ...... 52 France Travel Guide ...... 113 Uzès ...... 58 Language ...... 121 Provence ...... 59 Aix-en-Provence ...... 59 3

000-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd0-title-contents-rt-prosf1.indd 3 220/02/20150/02/2015 11:23:4011:23:40 AMAM House in Vaucluse 4

001-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd1-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd 4 220/02/20150/02/2015 8:56:298:56:29 AMAM GERARD LABRIET/GETTY IMAGES ©

WELCOME TO PPROVENCEROVENCE & SOUTHEASTSOUTHEAST FFRANCERANCE

With its shimmering coast and rustic Provençal heart, the Mediterranean south has a timeless allure. Driving here you’ll travel through wildly divergent landscapes: cinematic coastline, rugged hinterland and bucolic valleys.

Southeastern France’s glamorous cities, deep- blue Mediterranean and chic hilltop villages always delight. Inland, weave between fragrant lavender ﬁ elds, forested gorges and Roman ruins. Linger in art galleries or be engulfed in the lush green wetlands of the Camargue.

Along the way you’ll connect with the poets, painters and writers who ﬂ ocked here during the 20th century, chasing sun and inspiration.

001-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd1-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd 5 220/02/20150/02/2015 8:56:408:56:40 AMAM Die Parc Naturel #\ Régional du Vercors

Roman Provence Lavender Route 1 Fabulous scenery and well- DRÔME 2 Fine picnic spots and picturesque preserved Roman buildings make hilltop villages are filled with the history come alive. 7 DAYS scent of lavender. 4-5 DAYS

ce n a r u

#\ D R Valreas hô

e PROVENCEVE Pont- #\ #]Vaison-la- St-Esprit Romaine MontR Ventoux Orange (1912m) #] VAUCLUSE

#\ #\ Carpentras L

GARD Pont du Sorgues #\ Forcalquier Gard #\ #] Avignon #] #\ Gordes Gard Parc Naturel V Noves #\ Régional du Luberon Nîmes #] Mourre R Ta ra sc o n Négre #\ #\ Orgon #\ (1125m) #] Caissargues Glanum #\Cadenet

Salon de D St-Gilles #\ #] Arles Provence ura #\ Pelissanne nce #\

St-Chamas Aix-en- #\ #\ Provence Parc Naturel : Régional #\ de Camargue Étang:: St-Maximin- #\ de Berre la-Ste-Baume Stes- Maries- #\ Port de-la-Mer #\ St-Louis du L'Estaque Rhône Marseille #^ #\ Aubagne

Golfe de Cassis #\ Beauduc #\ The Camargue Les Lecques 4 Wetlands, wildlife and a sense #] of wonder: it's all here in the T Camargue. 4 DAYS

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

001-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd1-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd 6 220/02/20150/02/2015 8:56:418:56:41 AMAM Parc Parc Naturel National Regional du #\ des Écrins Queyras PPROVENCEROVESaluzzoNCE HAUTES- & SSOUTHEASTOUTHEAST ALPES #\ Embrun #\ Gap FFRANCERANCE

ITALY #] Cuneo ce Seyne- #\ les-Alpes #\ Le Sauze

Reserve #\ Geologique St Etienne-ennne- PaParcoarcr oN Naturaleata uru alle de Haute Provence dedellelleAA Alpilpi la-TinéeTinée Marittime #\ La Javie #\ Parc National Colmars- du Mercantour les-Alpes St-Martin- St-Sauveur- #\ Vesubie Château-Arnoux #\ #\ sur-Tinee St-Auban ALPES DE #\ ALPES- #\ HAUTE- Roquebillière Les Mées PROVENCE MARITIMES #\ Villars- sur-Var

Ventimiglia Valensole Parc Naturel #] #\ Régional du Verdon #] MONACO Loup #_ Menton Vence #\ #] Nice #\ Grasse A rtuby #] Antibes #] Cannes

Argens #\

Fréjus #\ St-Raphaëlph

VAR St-Maxime #\

#\ St-Tropez Cuers #\ MEDITERRANEAN SEA Modern Art Meander #\ Le Lavandou 3 See works by famous artists #] #\ and the places that inspired Toulon Hyères them. 7 DAYS 48km to

Corsica ‚

040km e# 020miles

001-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd1-welcome-to-map-rt-prosf1.indd 7 220/02/20150/02/2015 8:56:428:56:42 AMAM PARIS If ever a city needed no introduction, it’s Paris – a trend setter, fashion former and style icon for centuries, CITY and still very much at the cutting edge. Whether you’re here to tick oﬀ the landmarks or seek out the GUIDE secret corners, Paris fulﬁ ls all your expectations, and still leaves you wanting more.

Montmartre, Paris 10

004-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd4-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd 1010 118/02/20158/02/2015 6:52:236:52:23 PMPM M P

8 3 : 2 5 11 : 6

5 1 0 2 / 2 0 / 8 118/02/2015 6:52:38 PM el.fr). ﬀ ying buttresses buttresses ying ﬂ Eiffel Tower at Twilight Tower Eiffel Canal St-Martin Musée du Louvre

Cimetière Père-Lachaise Basilique du Sacré-Coeur

Musée d’Orsay Les Catacombes

Cathédrale de Notre-Dame

TOP EXPERIENCES TOP along the tow-paths of this 4.5km canal, once derelict but now reborn as a haven from the city hustle. Any time is a good time take to Any in time the is  Join the locals for a walk or bike ride panorama from the top of the ‘Metal Asparagus’ Parisians (as snidely callbut – it) the twilight view is extra  and Jim Morrison are just a few of the famous names buried in this wildly overgrown cemetery (www. perelachaise.com). France’s greatest repository of art, special (www.tourei special  catacombes.paris.fr). Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Marcel Proust sculpture andthe Louvre artefacts, is a must-visit – but don’t expect to see it all in a day (www.louvre.fr).   by gargoyles and (www.cathedraledeparis.com). Explore more than 2km of tunnels beneath the streets of Montparnasse, lined with the bones and skulls of millions of Parisians (www. Paris’ Paris’ second-most-essential museum, with a fabulous collection Climb inside the cupola of this Montmartre landmark for one of the (www.sacre vistas cross-city best -coeur-montmartre.com).   Peer over Paris from the north tower of this Gothic landmark, surrounded encompassing originals by Cézanne, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh and more (www.musee-orsay.fr).  cial visitor visitor cial ffi rst30 minutes fi best areas for eating (www.secretsofparis.com) (www.secretsofparis.com) (www.parisbymouth.com) Eat and Eat (www.parisbymouth.com) cient; tickets cost €1.70 ffi (www.lonelyplanet.com/paris) (www.lonelyplanet.com/paris) 1 t 1 o i

ForFF more, check out our citycc and country guides. www.lonelyplanet.comwww

d (http://en.parisinfo.com) O (http://en.parisinfo.com) d etard are full of atmosphere. n ﬀ i . don’t take coins; use a chip-enabled coins; don’t take 1 f s o r p - t r www.velib.paris.fr) stations; insert a credit - Useful Websites Info Paris site. Planet Lonely city guide. Planet’s Lonely Paris of Secrets insider tips. full of blog Local’s Mouth by Paris the capital. round way drink your out, with its small restaurants and trendy bistros. Don’t miss Paris’ street markets: the Marché Bastille, rue Montorgueil and Mou rue Live Like a Local Base yourself in Montmartre for its Parisian charm, if you don’t mind crowds. Le Marais and Bastille provide style on a budget, while St-Germain is good for a splurge. Discover the Taste of Paris Discover the Taste the of one is Le Marais Parking Meters car parks cost €2 to credit card. Municipal hours. €25 per 24 or €20 to €3.50 an hour, Getting Around Getting Driving in Paris is a nightmare. Happily, there’s no needcar. for a The metro is fast, frequent and e passes and(day are €6.70) valid on the city’s buses. Bikes can be hired from 1800 Vélib ( card, authorise a €150 deposit and pedal Day passesaway. cost €1; free, subsequent 30 minutes from €2. e d i

NICE The classic metropolis of the French Riviera, Nice has something to suit all moods: exceptional museums, atmospheric street markets, glittering Mediterranean beaches and a rabbit-warren old town, all bathed in radiant year-round sunshine. With its blend of city grit and old-world opulence, it deserves as much time as you can spare.

Getting Around Parking The complicated one-way system and Nearly all parking in Nice is payant heavy traﬃ c can make driving in Nice (chargeable) – assuming you manage stressful, especially in the heat of to ﬁ nd a space. Car parks are usually summer. Walking is the easiest way to get cheapest (around €2 to €3 per hour, or around. There’s a handy tram line from €17 to €30 per day). All parking meters the train station all the way to Vieux Nice take coins; car-park pay stations also and place Garibaldi; tickets cost €1 and accept credit cards. are valid on buses.

004-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd4-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd 1212 118/02/20158/02/2015 6:52:396:52:39 PMPM JOSEPH SOHM-VISIONS OF AMERICA/GETTY IMAGES ©

TOP EXPERIENCES

 Strolling the Promenade des Anglais Join sun worshippers, inline skaters and dog walkers on this magniﬁ cent boulevard, which runs right along Nice’s shimmering seafront.

 Musée Matisse Just 2km north of the centre, this excellent art museum documents the life and work of Henri Matisse in painstaking detail. You’ll need good French to get the most out of your visit (www.musee-matisse-nice.org).

 Shopping on Cours Saleya This massive market captures the essence of Niçois life. A chaotic assortment of stalls sells everything from fresh-cut ﬂ owers to fresh ﬁ sh.

 Parc du Château Pack a picnic and head to this hilltop park for a panorama across Nice’s red-tiled rooftops.

Seafront, Nice

Discover the Taste of Nice Useful Websites Head for the alleyways of Vieux Nice Nice Tourisme (http://en.nicetourisme. (Old Nice) for the most authentic com) Informative city website with info on neighbourhood restaurants. Don’t miss accommodation and attractions. the local specialities of socca (chickpea- ﬂ our pancake), petits farcis (stuﬀ ed vegetables) and pissaladière (onion tart Trips Through Nice: 3 topped with black olives and anchovies). Destinations coverage: p89 Live Like a Local Old town equals atmosphere, but for the best views and classiest rooms you’ll want to base yourself near the seafront – the Promenade des Anglais has several landmark hotels. The city’s cheapest hotels are clustered around the train station.

004-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd4-city-guide-rt-prosf1.indd 1313 118/02/20158/02/2015 6:52:406:52:40 PMPM