East Lothian Council House Brewery Park Haddington EH41 3HA T: 01620 827 827 [email protected] visiteastlothian.org

Photos: Mark Jackson Photography, Rob McDougall Photography, Ted Stewart, Racecourse, Fringe by the Sea, Amanda Farnese Heath. visiteastlothian.org outdoor

guideEdinburgh’s Coast and Countryside

Walking/Wildlife/Watersports Cycling/Food and drink/Golf Beaches/Fishing/Horseriding Travel and much much more! Contents visiteastlothian.org

3 Welcome

4 Walk this way

6 John Muir

8 Wild about East Lothian

10 Top 10 spots

12 On your bike

14 Total adventure

18 Best of the beaches

20 Horsing around

22 Gone fishing

24 Eat East Lothian

26 A scenic drive

28 Events

31 East Lothian map

2 East Lothian Outdoor Guide east lothian outdoor guide

WELCOME to East Lothian! This guide will take you on a virtual tour of our beautiful coast and countryside and give you an overview of all the activities, wildlife, scenery, attractions and even food and drink you will encounter along the way. If you haven’t yet discovered what brings people to East Lothian to enjoy the great outdoors – read on for more information and get planning your trip today! You’ll learn that East Lothian is the birthplace of the famous conservationist John Muir – and that he is still very much celebrated today. Whether your sporting choice is walking, cycling, horseriding, fishing or watersports – East Lothian really is the place to be. There are activities, routes and attractions to help you relax and unwind – or set the pulse racing – and it really doesn’t matter what age you are. You’ll find something to whet your interest in our coast, countryside and beautiful towns and villages. And, of course, no outdoor activity is complete without a hearty meal to look forward to at the end of it. And guess what? You’re spoilt for choice for world-class food in East Lothian too. So, please, enjoy our Outdoor Guide and we look forward to giving you a warm, East Lothian welcome very soon!

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 3 Walk this way East Lothian offers a great variety of landscapes for walking, with the Lammermuir Hills to the south, a coast of beaches and cliffs and an expanse of arable farmland in between.

Many of the paths go to, or pass vantage which stretches 134 points offering views of the surrounding miles (215km) across ’s heartland, rolling landscape. Amongst the features running between and Helensburgh are hidden gems - river valleys, woodland, in the west. For more details on walking secret bays and historic sites. It is now or cycling the route please visit possible to walk the length of the East www.johnmuirway.org Lothian coast, almost 73km from to the Borders. A number of walking leaflets have been produced, highlighting walks along the The routes now form part of the long coast and around towns and villages all of distance walking and cycling route of the these are available on visiteastlothian.org

4 East Lothian Outdoor Guide KEY FACT: Walking is three times more popular (57%) as a recreational activity among scottish adults than the next most popular activities, swimming (18%) and football (7%)

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 5 6 East Lothian Outdoor Guide Keep close to Nature’s heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean. John Muir quoted by Samuel Hall Young in Alaska Days with John Muir (1915)

John Muir (1838-1914) was an explorer, mountaineer, conservationist, botanist, geologist and writer of distinction. He developed a passion for wild places growing up in the coastal town of Dunbar, before emigrating to the United States with his family at the age of ten.

His passion for wild places led to a life- the patron saints of 20th-century American long quest to protect them. Muir’s writings environmental activity”. Muir understood have been read by millions and help people his mission to be “saving the American understand the importance of wildness. soul from total surrender to materialism”. His activism helped to preserve Yosemite His name is honored by John Muir’s Valley in California, create the world’s Birthplace Museum, the John Muir Way, first national park system and found the John Muir Country Park, the John Muir environmental organisation the Sierra Trust and public buildings in Scotland Club which currently has more than as well as countless schools and colleges. 750,000 members. In America his name has inspired a number of well known and prominent places of Today Muir is regarded as “one of the interest including Muir Woods and the greatest thinkers of America” and “one of John Muir Trail.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 7 Wild about east lothian

East Lothian has a richly East Lothian provides habitats for a wide range of wildlife. Coastal areas are ideal varied landscape, from the for viewing seabirds such as gannets, terns coastline featuring sandy and curlew. beaches, cliffs and dunes, Inland, the hedgerows offer food and through rolling lowland shelter to many smaller birds. Brown hares shaped by agriculture and roe deer are common sights in the to the backdrop of the fields and woodland edges. If you are lucky you may even spot an otter or kingfisher Lammermuir Hills. along the riverbanks!

8 East Lothian Outdoor Guide KEY FACT: The has the largest gannet colony in the world with numbers peaking at over 150,000.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 9 Top10 to see in spots East Lothian!

1 Gannet 2 Kittiwake Scotland is home to around 60% of A gentle looking, medium-sized gull, Europe’s gannets. From late January kittiwakes have a small yellow bill, dark eye, gannets return to the Bass Rock: numbers grey back and white underneath: their little peak at over 150,000 making it the largest legs are short and black. In flight, the black Northern gannet colony in the world. wing-tips show no white, unlike other gulls, and look as if they have been ‘dipped in ink’. Gannets are Britain’s largest seabird and they have a distinctive appearance: adults Spot Them: The best place to see them is are bright white with black wingtips and a Dunbar Harbour. Believed to be the largest yellow marking on their heads, a long neck, mainland colony on a man-made structure pointed beak and long pointed tail. in Scotland. At sea they flap and then glide low over the water, often travelling in small groups. 3 They feed by flying high and circling before Brown Hare The Brown Hare, closely related to the plunging into the sea, at speeds of up to rabbit is one of the fastest of all the smaller 60mph/96kmph. animals, being able to move at speeds of Spot Them: They arrive at the Bass around 45mph. Hares apart from their size Rock from late January onwards and leave have a larger yellow coloured eye and a in October. distinctive black tip to their tail. Spot Them: Arable fields either dawn or dusk. 4 Burnet moth Two species can be found in East Lothian – the 6 spotted and 5 spotted – count the red spots to work out which is which! Spot Them: The Burnet moth is found in grassy areas and near the coast mid June-August. 10 East Lothian Outdoor Guide 5 Comma butterfly 9 Shore crab The Comma butterfly is a common British The shore crab has five points on each butterfly and one of the most easily side of the carapace, with stalked eyes in identified species when seen settled. between. Green/black in appearance they Recent arrival for East Lothian, first have a set of pincers to be aware of make recorded in 2012-13. It has a wingspan of sure you pick them up with two fingers up to 50mm with jagged edges to both carefully on the top of their carapace at the fore and hindwings. front on each corner. Spot Them: Along River Tyne Path and Spot Them: Abundant along the coastline around and Gosford. Late between high and low water. March – September. 10 Grey seal 6 Viper’s bugloss (plant) With their big brown eyes and appealing A striking plant of the sandy grasslands dog-like faces, seals are attractive around the coast and is East Lothian’s creatures. Around 40% of the world’s signature flower. Provides a food source population of grey seals live around the for the Burnet Moth. In flower June-July. UK and most of those in Scottish waters. Its name derives from the ancient belief Over 3,000 gather around the Isle of that plants held remedies in relation to May, making it Britain’s largest east coast their appearance - the stem and flower breeding colony. supposedly looking snake-like. Spot Them: Grey seals can be seen all year Spot Them: John Muir Country Park. round, but there are many more in October and November, when they give birth to their pups. The seals haul up in large numbers at 7 Bloody Cranesbill (plant) low tide at both ends of the Isle of May, and A wonderful little deciduous to semi- can also be seen swimming at the base of evergreen herbaceous perennial with a the West Cliffs, as well as Craigleith and the deep pink flower. Bass Rock. Never approach a pup if you find one on the beach, its mum will be nearby, Spot Them: Ferny Ness, East Lothian. aside from being bitten, they will likely be abandoned by their mother. 8 Pink Footed Geese It is pinkish grey with a dark head and neck, a pink bill and pink feet and legs. This species does not breed in the UK, but large numbers of birds spend the winter here, arriving from their breeding grounds in Spitsbergen, Iceland and Greenland. Spot Them: Bay in October.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 11 On Your East Lothian is abike! wonderful county for cycling especially if you’re a bit of a novice or want to go out on a leisurely cycle with the family.

It’s mainly flat and not too hilly for starters to explore, you can see for yourself the - which always helps - and the scenery is beautiful countryside on a bike and visit magnificent. Take the coastal road with the sites and attractions the county has views across the of Forth, where to offer. A double bonus! the road flows along the sea in and out of the pretty coastal villages or if you are If off-road cycling is your thing, there are loads looking for more of a challenge then follow of great cycle trails to test your skills with many the roads further inland where rolling exhilarating routes through the countryside. countryside leads into the foothills of the Lammermuirs with wonderful views across For ideas on where to take your bike, the whole county. check the circular cycling routes which have been developed. Available online East Lothian is compact too which makes it at visiteastlothian.org each one easier to visit many of the places of interest concentrating on a specific area of in one day. With many quiet country lanes the county.

12 East Lothian Outdoor Guide KEY FACT: The UK’s largest bike race the Tour of Britain visited East Lothian in September 2015. With top cyclists including Mark Cavendish and Sir Bradley Wiggins.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 13 Total adventure East Lothian is home to a wide range of beautiful beaches and open ocean that provide perfect conditions for the watersport enthusiast!

14 East Lothian Outdoor Guide East Lothian’s coastline lends itself to sport can be enjoyed by all but it is best to all manner of water sports activities. seek out qualified instruction, as certain Both ideal wave and wind conditions wind conditions can be exceptionally provides the water sports enthusiast with dangerous! Kitesurfing, kiteboarding and exhilarating and exciting adventures from windsurfing have all taken off at sailing to surfing! and . The predominant westerly winds allow perfect cross shore conditions Diving for jumping and speed moves with East Diving off Scotland’s south east coast has Lothian’s local kiting population getting been described as world class with a huge plenty of opportunity to shine! variety of ship wrecks and underwater cliff dives in and around the Forth, Bass Rock and Kayaking the Isle of May. & Dunbar are The beaches and reefs in East Lothian renowned locations for diving in East Lothian. provide excellent training conditions for both beginner and advanced kayaking Kitesurfing, Kiteboarding and Windsurfing enthusiasts. With so much of the coastline East Lothian provides flat beaches for not accessible by foot, sea kayaking can kiteboarding and ideal wind and waves for give you a wonderful sense of exploration the local kitesurfing population. With over and adventure. North Berwick provides the 270 degrees of rideable wind conditions, perfect launch point for sea kayakers, while this area is one of the most accessible beaches such as Tantallon provide waves top spots for kitesurfing in the UK. This for the enthusiastic surf kayaker.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 15 WATERSPORTS (continued)

Sailing Wakeboarding East Lothian caters for all types of sailing, Cable wakeboarding is the world’s fastest from small dinghies to large yachts, growing watersport, using an overhead from cruising to club and national racing cable which pulls you over the surface of championships. The Forth plays host to the lake with a feel similar to surfing or regular sailing regattas, and with a rich snowboarding but on water. Wakeboarding history in sailing there are many clubs to is one of the most progressive extreme choose from. For local clubs and harbour sports and most people manage to get up information the first step is the Royal on their board, find their feet and start Yachting Association for Scotland. carving in their first session. Moving out of the estuary into the North Sea can provide more challenging sailing, with good tide and weather planning required to ensure a safe stop in one of KEY FACT: the traditional fishing harbours. East Lothian is home to Surfing Scotland’s first Cable Dunbar plays host to the best surfable Wakeboarding site which waves in the area, with local surfers having surfed wave faces as big as 12ft. Belhaven is provides full beginner the most exposed beach in East Lothian to lessons by qualified staff. different swell directions and provides the home for the Belhaven Surf Club, currently the second top club in Scotland. Surf lessons are available in Dunbar from surf schools.

A198 Gullane North Berwick Tantallon Aberlady B1345 A198 A198 A6137 Belhaven Bay Dunbar Longniddry East A1 A199 Linton

A1 Musselburgh A199 Haddington A199 A1 16 East Lothian Outdoor Guide East Lothian Outdoor Guide 17 Best of the Beaches East Lothian has 40 miles of breathtaking coastline and award winning beaches making this an ideal destination for a day out. Stroll along gazing out to sea, paddle in the surf, hunt for shells and crabs or take in a spot of seal watching. Watersports enthusiasts can surf the waves, kayak, kite surf, dive or sail till their hearts content as the East Lothian coastline really does have it all. East Lothian welcomes responsible dog owners, toilets at all locations and showering facilities at both Belhaven Bay and Yellowcraig.

Belhaven Bay* Gullane Bents* Belhaven Bay is an extensive beach within Gullane Bents is a glorious sandy beach the John Muir Country Park. It is fringed by from which there are extensive views of the low, sheltering sand dunes, rich salt marsh . It is a popular family beach and colourful grasslands. The beach is ideal ideal for sunbathing, walking, kite flying, for walking, having picnics and sunbathing picnics, windsurfing and canoeing. The sea and affords splendid views across the Forth buckthorn and the extensive back dune Estuary the water conditions make it a system provides a haven for small birds. great place for surfing with a surf school operating from there. * This long sandy and rocky beach is Dunbar East Beach accessed easily from the road and car park. Located minutes from the High Street in It is close to nature reserves and there are a Dunbar, great beach for both rock pooling lot of birds to be seen feeding when the tide and relaxing with a picnic! Parking located is out. The beach is popular with canoeists nearby at the Leisure Pool. and windsurfers.

North Berwick West Bay North Berwick Misley Bay An expansive sandy beach within North Berwick itself. Popular with families, there is a boat pond built into the rocks which holds the water when the tide is out, providing a safe place for children to sail boats and paddle. The beach is very close to the picturesque harbour.

18 East Lothian Outdoor Guide KEY FACT: The 1885 lighthouse on Fidra Gullane beach Island is the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Thorntonloch famous tale Treasure Island. Almost hidden behind the rocky outcrop of Torness Point, this beautiful sandy beach runs south for about 400m, backed along its length of amazing dunes. North Berwick West Bay Beach Long sandy stretch of beach within North Yellowcraig* Berwick providing great views of the Yellowcraig is a natural cove beach with islands of both Craigleith and the Bass spectacular views to the 1885 lighthouse Rock. Behind the beach sits a putting on Fidra Island. It is a very popular family green, open during the summer season. beach, which offers nature trails, barbecue Close to the town centre and harbour, site (which must be pre-booked with the great for families. council) and adventure play area located next to car park. Seacliff* Seacliff beach is entered through a private Whitesands* road off the A198 at Auldhame. On the An attractive beach with fine golden sand north side of the beach is a sheltered spot bounded by a rocky shore and backed by containing Seacliff Harbour, said to be the low coastal grassland spotted with picnic smallest in the UK. Great views of Tantallon tables. Whitesands is an ideal place for an Castle which looms on a cliff overlooking early-morning swim. the beach. Sandy beach ideal for families and watersports. Excellent rock pools at either end of the beach. *car parking charges apply

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 19 Horsing Around in East Lothian Horseriding is a popular activity in East Lothian and there are lots of places to go. Please follow the main principles of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

Gullane & Belhaven Bay beaches offer Paths and old railway lines are also popular unique horseriding experiences. At with other users, some examples are the Belhaven Bay, a voluntary riding scheme is Pencaitland Railway Walk, in operation which is part of a larger group to Smeaton Railway and Haddington to created to manage the various recreational Longniddry Railway Walk. interests at this location. Riders register for free and are given a voluntary permit There are riding centres in North Berwick, together with weatherproof map, indicating Longniddry, and Dunbar who the recommended riding routes. offer indoor and outdoor riding lessons.

20 East Lothian Outdoor Guide KEY FACT: The ancient ceremony of the Riding of the Marches is held in Musselburgh every 21 years.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 21 gone fishing

Whether you’re looking for freshwater or sea fishing you’ve got plenty of options in East Lothian.

22 East Lothian Outdoor Guide Hopes Reservoir is best for trout, and All along our coastline there are Whiteadder Reservoir offers good trout picturesque harbours: Dunbar, Cockenzie, and salmon, are both near Gifford. The Kin Port Seton and North Berwick. From these Loch at Markle Fisheries holds rudd, carp, you can book fishing boat trips, hire fishing tench and trout. Or you can head for the boats and equipment as well as buy bait. River Tyne, which flows north-east from You can also enjoy a day on one of our the Moorfoot Hills for 30 miles to the sea quiet beaches and fish for mackerel and at Belhaven Bay near Dunbar. This peaceful sea bass. river provides challenges to the angler fishing for brown and sea trout, you may also land the occasional salmon. Permits may be required.

KEY FACT: Fishwives were a familiar sight along the east coast until the 1950s, selling their fish and shellfish around the streets of Edinburgh and further afield. They wore a very distinctive traditional dress including a striped ‘kilted’ skirt which was practical and also served as a recognisable uniform as they sold their wares.

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 23 EAT EAST LOTHIAN

Whether you’re looking for the freshest seasonal produce available in local farm shops or the best places to eat out for that special occasion, you will find something to suit all tastes in East Lothian. A gastronomic delight, East Lothian has everything from scrumptious Scottish cider and fruit liqueurs, award-winning butchers, freshly caught seafood and the best quality fruit and vegetables. On the last Saturday morning of each month, Haddington plays host to the Farmers’ Market which offers a wealth of local food.

To assemble Turbot, often referred to as 140g cooked peas “the king of fish” is a highly 140g cooked broad beans prized flat fish with firm white 4 baby artichokes cooked sliced and fried 1. Place the potato, broad beans and peas meaty textured flesh which around the edge of a plate. makes it an ideal pairing for 2. Place the cooked turbot in the centre. 3. Garnish with baby artichokes and pea seasonal peas, broad beans and shoots. a bold mushroom bouillon. 4. Lightly whisk mushroom bouillon then Mark Saddler, Head Chef, Greywalls Hotel sauce as required.

24 East Lothian Outdoor Guide foodanddrinkeastlothian.com

Roast turbot 1. Place all ingredients in a sauce pan 4 x 200g tranche of turbot (ask your local and reduce by ¾ then pass through fish monger to do this for you) a fine sieve. Butter 2. Add 80g crème fraiche and 50g butter Thyme and leave aside. Oil Boulangere Potato 1. Season the turbot then fry it in a hot pan 1 shallot finely diced with oil until both sides are golden brown. 1 clove garlic finely diced 2. Add butter and thyme then place in an 40g butter oven at 180c for 8mins or until cooked. 80ml chicken stock 3. Remove from butter and allow to rest. 1 sprig thyme Mushroom bouillon 4 new potatoes sliced 1 cm thick 600g button mushroom finely sliced 1. Sweat the garlic and shallot in the butter 2lt chicken stock (fresh) until tender. 1 clove garlic finely sliced 2. Add the potato and thyme and season 200ml Madeira with salt. 20ml soy sauce 3. Add chicken stock and simmer until 5g salt cooked, adding extra water if required. 80g crème fraiche 50g butter East Lothian Outdoor Guide 25 A SCENIC

DRIVEEast Lothian provides an inspirational setting for golf, and with 22 courses it has the highest concentration of links golf courses in the world.

26 East Lothian Outdoor Guide Stretching through 30 miles of stunning For more information on golf in East Lothian, coastline, golden beaches and rolling please visit golfeastlothian.com countryside, Scotland’s Golf Coast is a golfing paradise. It features a depth, variety and quality of golf courses which can compete with any golf destination in the world. Known as the sunniest and driest part of Scotland, it is open for business throughout the year, with a warm welcome awaiting every visitor.

The destination offers a truly authentic golfing experience, featuring one of the oldest courses in the world at Musselburgh Links. The location of the first Ryder Cup played in Scotland in 1973, Muirfield is the course that inspired Jack Nicklaus to construct Muirfield Village in Ohio.

KEY FACT: All golf holes across the world measure 4 ½ inches and have done since 1891. This is because Royal Musselburgh Golf Club in East Lothian had invented, in 1829, the first known holecutter. Nobody knows why this size was chosen, but you can only imagine how much easier golf would have been had the cutter measured 10 inches! Gullane No. 1

East Lothian Outdoor Guide 27 February March April

May June July

3 Harbours Festival August TheSeptember festivalOctober highlightsNovember this creative EVENTS environment along with amateur and professional artists and performers from February March hereApril and further afield.

May June July

February March April Scotland’sFebruary March NationalApril Airshow August September SpectacularOctober November displays and demonstrations Eat East Lothian with plenty of thrills and spills in the air and EatMay East LothianJune Julyencourages diners to onMay the ground.June July eat local. Spend £20 in local participating establishments for your chance to win August September October November a share of the total prize fund! August September October November February March April Fringe by the Sea February March April Entertaining line-up of music, comedy, May theatre,June film,July author and children’s events. Dunbar Sci-Fest May Inspirational,June July interactive and fun science events for everyone. August September October November

August September October November February March April Lammermuir Festival February March April Bringing musicians, local people and visitors together in celebration of music John Muir Celebrations May June July in towns and villages across the county. May June CelebratingJuly John Muir’s Birthday, various events and celebrations take placeFebruary eachMarch year.April August September October November August September October November The Saltire Festival May June July A celebration of St. Andrew’s day with people all over the world celebrating Puffin Festival Scotland’s modern culture and traditions FascinatingAugust September facts,October games,November activities and through the best of Scottish music, arts, competitions for the whole family. food and drink and entertainment. Big Nature Festival John Muir Winter Carnival Fun for all the family, from bushcraft and A celebration of adventure activities wildlife photography classes to science that can be undertaken in Scotland’s workshops, farmers’ market and live music. fantastic countryside.

28 East Lothian Outdoor Guide East Lothian Outdoor Guide 29 East Lothian is located to the east of Scotland’s capital city Edinburgh. The county has excellent transport links with the main A1 route running through the county. The East Coast main line runs trains throughout the day. For those flying, Edinburgh airport is located to the west of the city. For more See you soon! information on public transport, please visit travelinescotland.com

30 East Lothian Outdoor Guide Walking/Wildlife/Watersports Cycling/Food and drink/Golf Beaches/Fishing/Horseriding Travel and much much more!

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