pening words of a 59'30

klahoma, at first might have emed preposterous to rkders of the ~lclabmCity newspaper in which they appeared. Whkh w&r7 after all, did not know that the surround- fng latnbp 'could claim nothing higher than an oc- &%&ma1hill? I;: Dr, GudB's next words, however, clarified the point, "bat thb mantain is buried under 6,500 feet of sand- *B & &ale." THE Tb "~momtainl'is there. today. It is a ridge of fan- htie length, extending underground from southeastern N&r& through Kansas to Central Oklah011~8.A few dl= tram its southern end, it created conditions for om af the world's greatest oilfields-the City Field, N& "Nemaha" for a northern Kansas county, the mountbtinous granite mass was formed during the LOST dim reaches of an ancient geologic era. It then stood IWBthe land surface. But came the tidal seas- wbm that "covered the face of the deep" and their Immemenb deposited layer after layer of earth sedi- mmQ, today sits atop 6,500 feet of *has &enternore than a mile above Nemaha. The receding waters that had slowly deposited those layers of earth also left animal and plolrvt red.M &me of these, in "nature's refinery," became t*hy oil particles. Becaw of their light weight, they moved up ward along Nernaha's granite slopes until stappd by a did layer of shale. Similar "traps" at intervals along Nemaha's length , f~rmedsuch huge oil fields as Eldorado and Augista and $8 ttcret treasure in Kansas and, in Oklahoma, the Garber, Tonkawa, Gushing, Seminole, and Oklahoma City Fields. Of these, the Oklahoma City Field is the largest, having produced 729 million barrels of oil up to January 1, 1967. The in- dustry officially ranks a field whieh has produced a mil- lion barrels as a "giant" field. The Oklahoma City Field is 729 times a giant. It dozed for many a eentury befom its preeenw was guessed; until about fifty years ago-2'yatardaf in geological time. Then man first began to suspect there was a veritable ocean of oil below his feet in tha Okla- homa City area. The discovery, when it came, was less the reward of intensive search than a turn of olrame, First to learn the truth were young practitioners of a science then still in its infancy-petroleum gwbgy, Several geologists thought they sniffed cmde dl at Oklahoma City, some as many as ten years before the opening of the field. First, perhaps, was George Morgan* a young geologist for the Empire Gas and Fuel Corn- in Oklahoma City. While visiting his girl frien4 & Oklahoma City during World War I, Morm s$&id an interesting fact. What happened is tald bp Eweref& Carpenter, now, fifty years later, living i~ rethement i Oklahoma City: 'The story George related to me the & day WM B Y DAvfD CRAIGWEAD

TWO

of his place. He kept a keg of wine down there, and George's girl had taken him down there to offer him a drink. George observed an east dip in the dirt wall I of the cellar. In those days, the thinking of geologists ran to anticlines as the placea to look for oil and gas, and an east dip here in Oklahoma was tantamount to an Mclny a wild well has blown in during a "trip"(running drill I i anticline- George worked up a map of sorts and brought pipe out or back into the hole). So it was with Wild Mary Sudik. I When drill stem was being pulled, in she blew-200 million it to the office the next day." cubic feet of gas and 20 thousand barrels of oil per day. For Morgan's map fascinated the Empire Oil Company's eleven days she roared wild, while news commentators broadcast executives but they feared that the oil - if indeed it to the world the epic struggle that brought her under control. existed -was too far down. Carpenter guessed its depth at 15,000 feet. Drilling eventually proved that it was not half that deep, but Empire was better off not trying any- way. Cable tools, the only drilling devices then, were useless at such depths. Another young geologist, Jerry Newby, sweyed the land surface in northeast Oklahoma City for the chamber of commerce in 1917. Newby found evidence of an oil structure and drew a map which "showed a large plung- ing nose with axis east of the capitol building and north- east dips toward Eastern Avenue and Lincoln Park." Other geologists came upon clues to Nemaha's secret treasure. These included L. E. Trout, in about 1920; and E. A. Paschal1 and John R. Bunn in 1926. Bunn's work led to the drilling of a test well north of the city which found both oil and gas, but not in commercial quantities. Despite the efforts of professional geologists, it was the work of a college professor which led to drilling of the )first oil well. Dr. G. E. Anderson, a mild-mannered pro- fessor of geology at the , liked to spend his summers in the outdoors. It was while doing I field reconnaissance for the Indian Territory Illuminat- Thirty years ago derrick lights and gas flares illuminated residences near the Capitol in Oklahoma City. A bit noisy, but

r wells, driUed in one of the world's most ictive oiljielda, produce income for the :tion of the State of Oklahoma. The Oklahoma bl Building, as seen here, stands on the rhoulder of the '%st mountain" which lrues to produce ibfortune in black gold. photo by Paul E. Lefebvre

FlVF A gusher spewing oil at the rate of 6,000 barrels a day, as did the No. 1Oklahoma City heralds great things. Frenzied drilling followed. The derricks marched north into the heart of the city. For the next decade the metropolis grappled with the joys and agonies of being straddled by spindly steel monarchs that clanked inces- The Oklahoma City assignment meant drilling to new, santly and seemed to blacken everything around them. greater depths. The heavy steel bits, pounding their way The wells also pumped an economic infusion into the deep into the earth, struck gas under such pressure that city during the worst days of the Depression, providing it bounced them like toys. The drillers said they had high salaried jobs and money in the form of royalty struck "rubber rocks." Drillers usually welcome a show payments. of gas but here, said I.T.I.O. drilling supervisor Pat Arguments over restricting drilling in the city reached Sutton, was "more gas than we wanted." a storybook climax when oilmen announced that there Finally the drilling tools came loose in the hole and was oil beneath the state capitol building. In the gov- the crew spent a week "fishing" for them. The hardships ernor's chair was E. W. Marland, himself an oilman and were forgotten, however, on Dec. 4, 1928, when the No. a patron of the arts. He faced a crisis of decision. Should 1Oklahoma City "blew itself in" at a depth of 6,355 feet. he hold that the sanctity of Oklahoma's state capitol They had confirmed the existence of Nemaha's treasure. grounds prohibited the invasion of oil derricks, as some insisted, or allow drilling and boost state revenues?------. Marland pondered. Then he acted. Down went the drilling bit--down to strike oil all along Lincoln Boulevard, and beneath the very capitol building itself. Now, a genera- tion later, many of these wells are still pro- ducing, including the whipstocked well which pumps oil from the dome structure beneath the capitol building. This has given rise to the truism that Oklahoma's domeless capitol build- ing, "has the dome underground." And, to the envy of other states with money problems, it produces oil. The Oklahoma City Field had more than its share of "wild wells." The most famous of these was "Wild Mary Sudik" which, in March, 1930, spouted oil like a huge subterranean whale and roared its defiance for eleven hectic days before being subdued. It is claimed that particles of "Wild Mary's" oil, wafted by the wind, were carried as far as Norman, twenty miles south. The flood of oil from Oklahoma, added to that from the huge East Texas field and other smaller fields, caused serious over-production. A remedy became imperative and so something new, a system of "pro-rating" oil production, was devised. It curbed waste and saved many an oilman from failure. The corrective, devel- oped with the help of strong Oklahoma lead- ership, led the state to be called the "mother of oil conservation." The Oklahoma City Field still produces a

large amount of oil. Hundreds of derricks yet 1 dot the skyline and draw from the ground1 needed lubricants, while affording tourists a most unusual sight. The Wilcox Sand, Nature sometimes ia lavish and sometimes stingy with in which the Mary Sudik well struck her gifts. She can be cruel and destructive. But at the both oil and gas, is a place now occupied by metropolitan Oklahoma City, deep part of the Simpson Sand in the earth, she improvised one of her great bountie- formation shown on this cutaway. the "treasure of Nemaha."

OKLAHOMA TOD t was the day after Christmas, 1927. Big-time pro- roar as the Indians trotted on the gridiron. For the fessional football was coming to Pawhuska. The Hominy team, this was their first crack at a football club barnstorming New York Giants, newly crowned with the stature of the Giants. A year or so earlier, they champions of the National Football League were had met and defeated a team calling themselves the New meeting the Hominy Indians, pride of Oklahoma York Rangers. The Rangers were beaten by Hominy professional football. first at Pawhuska and then were beaten again at San The Giants had earned their title a few weeks earlier Antonio, two weeks later. by defeating Red Grange's New York Yankees in a New From the opening kickoff, the two teams battled each York City title match, while the Indians were the power- other up and down the field. The superior strength and house club of the tri-state area of Oklahoma, Kansas, experience of the Giants was matched by the supercharged and Missouri. After running up a string of 28 consecutive quickness of the Indians. Every Hominy gain, pass com- victories, one sports writer had tagged them "the terrors pletion or jarring tackle brought a standing ovation. of the midweat." It was inevitable that something had to give, and it was The game was a natural for prosperous, oil-booming the Hominy eleven who gave first; a touchdown. Stung by Pawhuska and an enthusiastic sports crowd packed the the Giant touchdown, the Indians struck back and tied stadium to overflowing. Football fans converged on Paw- the score when an alert Hominy end grabbed a Giant huska from all across the country. The betting was heavy fumble in mid-air and raced 50 yards for a touchdown. with most of the "smart" money riding on the Giants. Deep in the third quarter, Pappio, of the Indian team, out- Devoted, partisan fans at Pawhuska gave a tremendous raced the Giant safety man and caught a 60 yard pass

how many Oklahomans know that one of the first great pro-football teams was the

BY ARTHUR SHOEMAKER

KLAHOMA TODAY SEVEN I -I1 the gum in the fourth quarter. On the first play, Martin skirted right end for a gain of 20 yards, but Hominy was penalized 15 yards for Martin's having failed to report to the referee. On the next three plays the backfield hit the from John Levi, ex-Haskell All-American. The point after line for a first down. With the ball on the 20-yard

I. ' touchdown was added and the Indians defeated the Giants line, Martin again skirted right end for the winning , by a final score of 13 to 6. touchdown." i - The idea of an "all-Indian" pro-football team in Okla- This same Johnnie Martin was later to become known - homa was the brainchild of Ira Hamilton, a young Osage to baseball fans the world over as Pepper Martin, star Y~ Indian of Hominy. It was through his urging that a group third baseman for the St. Louis Cardinals' "Gas House of Indian boys, some experienced, some not, got together Gang" of the 1930's. In 1929 Pepper upset the Cardinal for a series of practice scrimmages. Hamilton bought the front office by playing with the Hominy Indians in a first uniforms and directed the team in a few basic assign- game against the Memphis Tigers at Memphis, Tenn. ments and plays until a regular coach could be hired. By 1925 the Indians were winning so consistently that ' When they felt ready to take on an opponent, a game it was necessary to find new teams to play. An expanded was set up against a team from Skiatook. It ended in the schedule meant traveling greater distances and would first Indian victory. greatly increase the expenae budget, so a group of Osage The first coach of record for the Hominy Indians was men offered financial backing. Among those who helped Pete Houser, former Carlisle and Haskell star. He guided were Dick Rusk, Harry Bigeagle, John Abbott, and Allison the team for two winning seasons against Missouri teams Webb, with Ed LaBelle acting as team secretary. at Joplin and &moxie; Kansas teams at CoffeyviIIe, Elk It was through the influence of these Osage tribal City and F'redonia; and Oklahoma teams at Stillwater, leaders that Hominy was able to field teams well strength- Avant, Skiatook, Oilton, Bartlesville and Fairfax. It was ened with players graduated from Haskell Institute. It the custom to play a team twice each season on a home was a matter of pride that an Indian boy, graduating from and home basis, the average season running from twelve an Indian school, could "play for pay" with an all-Indian to fourteen games. pro-football team. A Hominy News account of a 1924 game against Avant It was from HaskelI that the Hominy team got John relates; "Johnnie Martin, former pitcher for the Guthrie and George Levi. John became a player-mach and was baseball team in the Oklahoma State League, went into one of the all time great Indian players. Using the round,

EIGHT OKLAHOMA TOD ai% fat ball of the day, John would stand on the fifty-yard of a team victory, were all a part of the game. line and drop kick the ball, first over one goal, and then A player for the Hominy Indians had to be versatile, the other. He could kick or pass the ball 100 yards. as well as rugged. He never knew when he would have to The Hominy club's complete historic roster lists such play a different position. Most of the linemen could play colorful Indian names as Big Horse, Bird, Brave, Fixico, any position in the line. A fleet end would fill in for an Pappio, and Bear Tracks. A good many tribes were rep- ailing halfback. Game conditions were often miserable, resented; Osage, Pawnee, Oh, Creek, Seminole, Chey- as reported by this Associated Press dispatch datelined enne, Arapaho, Sioux, Cherokee, Navajo, Kiowa, Seneca, December 15, 1928, from Memphis, Tern. Sac and Fox, and Pottawatomie, among them. One long ZNDZAN ELEVEN BEATS TIGERS IN MUD 20-13 outstanding player was George Nix, an Eskimo from "For the second time this season the Oklcrhona Indian Alaska. football team from Hominy, unbeaten in two years, con- Payment to football players in the twenties seldom quered the Tigers Sunday at Hodges Field, Memphis, rose higher than $150 per game. In many instances was in a sea of mud and water. The triumph of the Redskim less than that. Occasionally it was necessary to announce marked their twenty-seventh consecutive victory in two that all the proceeds of a game would go to the players. years, in which time they have not been beaten or tied." They had to risk broken bones, torn ligaments, long hos- The dispatch does not fully explain that the entire sixty pital bills, wen unattended injuries, of every sort. But minutes of the game were played in a cold, dreary, down- none counted the risks-the special joy of team play pour that turned the turf into a swamp. Mud oozed from was far greater. every uniform and the entire game was played with just There was a special flavor to those haphazard times, one ball. There was no such thing as a dry ball in despite lean gate receipts and long, wearying rides. The those days. Indians never owned a bus, but used a caravan of touring The Indians did not go on winning forever. They, too, cars. The breakdown of a lumbering Pierce-Arrow or suffered defeat which only proved that they could take it Buick carrying key players, the ragged jerseys, the greasy as well as dish it out. In 1928, a hand picked team of lunch moms, the smell of linament and sweat, the rejoicing NFL All-Stars rolled into Tulsa and played Hominy at McNulty Park on December 20. The All-Stars, led by 1 If we counted correctly, eleven different tribes are represented on Steve Owen, who became the long-time coach of the I this Hominy Indians us New York Giants football program. Also, N. Y. Giants and a member of the Pro Football Hall of there were six Oklahomans playing for the New York Giunts; Gutow- Fame, defeated the Indians 27 to 0. , sky (it's spelled wrong in the program) and Schwab from Oklahoma 1 City University; Sark, Sedbrook, Bill and Steve Owen from Phillips From 1929 through 1932, the Indians traveled from University. Both O.C.U. and Phillips had powerhouse football clubs coast to coast. A few games were played in California, but in those days. And how about Stein, from the College of Hard the majority of them in the east. (There were games at I Knocks? Pro-football was rough and rugged then, and now. St. Louis, Boston, New York City, Chicago, and many smaller cities.) One game was in Orange, New Jersey, against the Buffalo Rangers. The Oklahoma Indians had little trouble scheduling games in the east. They were splendid athletes, and they were colorful. A group of Tulsa business men once made offers to move the team to Tulsa where stadium arrangements and gate receipts would be more attractive to visiting teams. Relidnary discussions were held to obtain an NFL franchise for the Indians should they move to Tulsa. With the advent of the thirties, the great depression spread across the land. The golden age of pre-depression sports was at an end. Pro teams were disbanding in all but the larger citiea of the east. The Indians gave up football after the 1932 season. But for ten amazing years, the Hominy Indians were a big-time pro-football team in Oklahoma. They played all comers. They played on fields that were nothing more than chalked-off pastures, and they played in stadiums seating fifty thousand fans. They played because they loved the game, and because they could play as an all-Indian unit. It is pure conjecture, but what might the circumstances be today had the Hominy Indians been able to continue in football with an NFL franchise. It is possible that, today, Oklahomans would be rooting for their team against the likes of the Green Bay Packers, the Chicago Bears, the Detroit Lions-and get this-the Washing- ton Redskins.

11 I 1 :F 'OKLAHOMA

B @ o EXPC$%TIC!Y 0-49 * 66 !WCBWIy67"

SEPTEMBER 23 - OCTOBER 1 1967 ' OKLAHOMA ClPV

your~~tnm~~ am -L l&aE 'vealksres hk, Bjm# vkrftay got- bnWbWASAdIrd1ftary#BthiMte...studytbe -d meh*ts Aft &?how, mad the Bdariul In-M nkto lifdmh b p ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ A ~ ~ s ~ yard.. ed"m**~'*wd bm wo#F8Xli.~&~ma&&my,..atnew. .- jC AUTO RACING DAILY

*-? 10 GREAT DAYS

TULSA-TULSA-T ULSA-TULSA

SKYRIDE TULSA STATE FAIR COLOR PHOTO BY PAUL E. LEFEBVRE

TULSA STATE FAIR

~J:lli

LEFLORE COUNTYTHE 1 TQURIST ASSOCIATION

The Heavener Runest

ome of the most enchanting scenery in the entire Leif Erikson, son of Eric Red, reached the Cape west is found in the Kiamichi Mountains. It is area of our Atlantic corn a land of cold, quiet streams, sparkling isolated 10a3, almost five centu lakes chock full of bass, goggle-eye, and blue before Columbus "discovi America" in 1492. In 1 ill, with pine-clad mountain hideaways for deer, another Vikzng, Thorfin Karlse wild turkey and quail, where early morning skies are led an exploratory expeditia Amenca. These early voyc veiled with haze and mystic shadows. are recorded in the anc Until now, however, relatively few outsiders have seen Hauksbok of Norse saga it. Earth roads made this trip a rugged expedition. To Copenhagen. Denmark. make such a trip took determination, endurance, and a diligent probing of scholars eventually establish whic, knowledge of the country. Consequently, hunters and several Viking expeditions entc fishermen were almost the only ones to explore the the Gulf of Mexico, traveled up Mississippi, the Arkansas, and interior of the Ouachita National Forest. But those who Poteau Rivers to erect this runes& did see this untamed, untouched, natural wonderland It is the oldest written evidend never quit talking about it. European presence on the Nc American Continent. From the naq Baldwin Mollhausen crossed here with the Pacific Rail- rock shelters of their base camp la road survey in 1853 and noted, "The traveler is tempted the Vikings explored the surrounq to linger here." English naturalist Thomas Nuttall, area. The runestone is oriented nc and south, and slanted towardl praised it in 1818 when he observed that the Winding noon position of the sun so thq Stair Mountains "resemble the Blue Ridge Mountains becomes both a directional marker, i a sundial. The primitive Norse ru of Harper's Ferry in Virginia" and a soldier who crossed carved on its flinty face the Old Military Road before the Civil War wrote his GN O MED A L- 'Sundial Dad sister that this looked like the "Old Catskill" country. "Sundial Valley." These early Vi4 explorers are receiving increari Now these scenic byways have become scenic highways. recognition. In 1964, the U. S. Conga You can see for yourself, from SH 88, a new nine mil- set aside Oct. 9 as Leif Erikson d Oklahoma has provided a park area t lion dollar skyline drive over the Winding Stairs and protection for this priceless historic artifi Rich Mountain, and from US 259, a broad north-south The Runestone is just northwest of Heave1 The park is open and you may visit it fi highway dedicated at Big Cedar in 1961 by John F. 9:00A.M. to 690P.M. da Kennedy. A monument has been placed at this crossroad Color photo by Bill Burcha~

FOURTEEN OKLAHOMA TODA

mountain village, where the American flag flies daily in President Kennedy's honor. Free of hot dog stands and billboards, the skyline drive immediately engulfs you in a peaceful atmosphere that lets you climb right up to the clouds. You feel as though you are on top of the world. For 55 miles from Talihina to Mena this ridge road offers the excitement of climbing, looping, and dipping, yet with the safe, secure feel of a super highway. Its official name is Talimena Scenic Drive, but "Sky- line Drive" still persists. That is the name the CCC boys gave the rough service road they cut through the forest for the rangers in the 1930's. It served as a road bed for this one. Frequent vistas, camping sites, picnic areas invite you to linger. Smell the coffee brewing as you cook out "high in the sky." Watch the sun rise and almost burst over Holson Valley. Climb one of the ranger's towers for a crow's nest view of the Kiamichi Valley and Sugar Loaf Mountains. Take pictures of the Old Military Road that crosses the drive near the west terminal. Built in 1832, it was used to move U.S. troops and equipment from Fort Smith to Fort Towson. Pause at Horsethief Springs where Belle Starr's outlaws watered and rested stolen horses before sending them on to Texas or Kansas in Indian Terri- tory days. Look for the magnificent arboretum on the north side of Coon Mountain where over 600 acres adjoining the scenic drive will be devoted to some 150 species of shrubs and trees, botanically marked. In LeFlore County his- tory has its deep roots in the rich heritage of Oklahoma. This was part of the Louisiana Purchase that Napoleon sold for less than four cents an acre. This is that came to them by the

View from Talime] Big Cedar Skyline Driti Eastern Oklahoma LS lon with gorgeous skyline drivc from which to view the glorl of autumn. The newest ori Talihina to Mena, far excee our vocabulary of adjective comparisons. We'll just say there is no drive anywhere' the world that can excell ! gentle, varihued grandeur. Mi we especially recommend the week ~n October? Anyway, t2 has been a favorite viewing ti for us. May we also recomme U.S. 259 south to Beavers Be State Park; U.S.59 from Sallis to Stilwell, then Okla. 51 Tahlequah; fact is, we've found autumn road from Grove to Brok Bow that did not somewhere ma us slow and pull aside, just to wa or stand, with the certain kmwle 1 that, as Zsiah urges us to '%act up the Lord," He has here ottertaken and we were in HLSpresence. Autu is a time when the handiwork of 1ti Almighty is evident, and the pensi atmosphere facilitates every creatil communicatio Color photo by Rubye McCc

OKLAHOMA TODAJ

Treaty of Dancing Rabbit Creek, where Choctaws agreed to exchange their land in Mississippi for land in Indian Territory. They named their new nation in honor of Chief Greenwood LeFlore, who never saw it. Even deeper in America's heritage are the Spiro Tem- ple Mounds, recognized as one of the outstanding archae- ological discoveries in North America. Scientists believe they were built some 500 years before the coming of Columbus. Exhibits taken from the mounds are on dis- play at the Stovall Museum, at Norman, the Historical Society Museum, Oklahoma City, and Woolaroc Museum, near Bartlesville. As you drive north from Spiro, look back before the Civil War and remember Skullyville existed here. The Choctaws received annuities here. The Choctaw word for money is "iskuli," and so the village was named. This was also a regular stop for the Butterfield Overland Stage that carried passengers and mail from St. Louis to San Francisco. About one and one-half miles east of Heavener is the famous Runestone on the side of Poteau Mountain. Carved on a monument like stone are ancient runes from the 3rd to 10th century Scandinavian alphabet. This is perhaps the earliest evidence of the presence of Euro- pean explorers on the American continent, indicating that the Vikings were here before Columbus. You may visit Hall Cemetery near Poteau, where the grave of Choctaw Chief Mosholatubbee is found. A roof like covering of native stone shelters his resting place. You can see the Mosholatubbee District council house south of Brazil Creek where his nephew, Chief Kincaid, is buried. Deep in the San Bois Mountains the dear Fourche Maline River meanders through Robbers Cave State Park. It enters Lake Carlton, giving fishermen a choice

Beaclers Bend State Park

At Sequoyah Memon near Sallisc This cabin, built in the style early days in Indian Territq is constructed of logs hn hewn by Sequoyah himself. Ii not the cabin in which Sequoy lived. The home cabin of Cherokee Cadmus is housed, protection in the memorial stc building nearby. It is spectub that Sequoyah cut and hewed th logs for a new house but, befi building it, departed on the joun from which he never return Color photo by Bill Burcha,

EIGHTEEN OKLAHOMA TODP

of either stream or lake fishing. Wear your sneakers to climb one hundred feet up the side of the sandstone cliff to the mouth of the cave, once a hideout for outlaws. A restaurant, swimming beaches, cottages and picnic tables are located in the park. On the ridge overlooking Poteau River Valley is the sprawling home of the late Senator Robert S. Kerr. Black Angus is the password in this valley where top breeding brings Angus buyers from all over the world. In Poteau, Angus steaks, Angusburgers, apple pie and hot biscuits satisfy the hungry appetite created by the fresh moun- tain air. Where fishermen once roughed it in exchange for a good string of fish, now modern facilities and good roads make this truly a fishermen's paradise. There is Lake Wister, Cedar Lake, Goats Bluff, Mountain Fork River, and Beaver's Bend State Park. When autumn tips its paint palette on more than 70 varieties of trees including hickory, sweet gum, oak, sycamore, pecan, walnut, and sassafras, in luscious oranges, purples, reds, browns and yellows it offers one of the nation's most exciting foliage extravaganzas. In LeFlore County is the old Indian jail at Panama; Captain Reynold's Castle at Cameron; Cavanal, "the world's highest hill;" hand blown glass plants; and the "crane rookery" where thousands of cranes nest and hatch their broods each year. There are saw mills, a deer park, a coal washing plant, bear caves to explore, and the Robert S. Kerr Lock and Dam on the Arkansas River. Whatever your traveling pleasure, it's here, whether it be hiking, photography, sketching, bird watching, look- ing for rocks, or studying wild flowers. As a bonus you will discover an atmosphere that seems to get progres- sively clearer and fresher, nature's tranquilizer at its best.

Stop On The Old Military Road to Fort Toulson

Mountain Fork River at Sun. The Mountain Fork sprir up in high counhy. As it flu south, gathering small strea with animal names, Eagle, Oh Buffalo, Turkey, Panther, a Bear, it seems to beco, increasingly frolicsome as thou assuming the youthful anin characteristics of these nameso streams. As it approaches a becomes Little River, streams w gently rhythmic Choctaw nun pouj in; Yanubble, Yashoo, Lukfa Luksukla. Here, at Boktukol mouth the river seems almost slow, to pause, hesitating, a: reluctant to pass this beautifid pla The traveler, pausing, knows a 1 reluctance. Especially so, at sum Color photo by Bill Burcha,

TWENTY OKLAHOMA TODP

SWIFT, GUYMON. employment for over 1,000 persons. By The new Swift & Company meat pro- the end of a year a shift of 400 workers cessing plant at Guymon began opera- will have been employed, with a payroll tions in September. With facilities for in excess of $1.5 million. The Elk City ,' slaughtering 2,600 cattle per week, the facility was built through a county indus- Swift plant is now adding $40 million trial trust. Beckham county citizens voted 1 annually to the Oklahoma economy. Guy- a $1.45 million county general obliga- , mon built and equipped the plant through tion bond issue by a 5-to-1 margin. A I lease agreement with Sequoyah is sched- ' the issue of revenue bonds, negotiating I a long term lease with Swift & Co. uled to retire the bonds. HAGGAR SLACKS, DUNCAN. The Duncan Haggar Slacks plant now B. F. GOODRICH, MIAMI. I employs approximately 300 sewing oper- This third largest single production ators and plans are in progress to add facility in Oklahoma is now producing another 100. The 32,000 sq. ft. facility 15,000 tires and 10,000 tubes per day, is a pace setter in the modern apparel more than triple the initial production of industry. The Duncan l ndustrial Develop- the plant when it opened in 1945. The ment Committee was a key organization payroll of the plant's 1,692 employees in bringing this plant to Duncan. now exceeds $1,250,000 per month. t Plant manager S. T. Ulmer lists nine rea- GEMCO, TULSA. sons why the Oklahoma plant has ex- Born just over two years ago with little - panded and will continue to expand; 1. more than an idea, Gemco, producing air- Electric energy available at favorable crew trainers, has now passed $3 mil- rates. 2. Abundant water resources. 3. lion per year in sales. Their first contract Gas available at favorable rates. 4. Favor- was with Trans World Airlines. The fine able tax structure. 5. Responsible and reputation of their product has spread mature employees. 6. Labor is available throughout the air carrier industry. Manu- to maintain steady production. 7. Favor- facturing cockpits for pilot training and able civic climate. 8. Central geographic passenger area mock-ups for stewardess location. 9. Close proximity river naviga- training, the airlines themselves have tion three years hence. spread the word. Economy, both in time and money, result from using Gemco GENERAL ELECTRIC, OKLAHOMA CITY. training devices. The General Electric Company has un- SEQUOYAH FURNITURE, ELK CITY. dertaken a huge Oklahoma City expan- Another link in the industrial organiza- sion. The facility now under construction tion that is the first to manufacture a will include 108,000 sq. ft. of space, and complete line of home furnishings under will initially house $5.8 million in equip- one name-Sequoyah-is now producing ment. Its 150 employees, primarily bedroom furniture at Elk City. There are skilled machinists and toolmakers, will two Sequoyah Carpet Mills plants at Ana- manufacture precision parts for comput- darko. The Sequoyah Furniture and Bed- ers. Company officials predict it will be ding Mfg. plant is in Oklahoma City the first of several buildings on the 1,016 Plans for a carpet mill to be built ir acre site. GE's first plant here was Osage County, were announced with dedi- opened five years ago. Now employing cation of the Elk City plant. In dedicating 1200 in its memory equipment depart- the $2 million Elk City plant, board ment and 450 in other leased buildings, chairman Don Greve said the industry the facility now under construction will will be able to produce in excess of $10 raise GE's total floor space here to million of furniture annually and provide BY HUGH SCOTT 419,000 sq. ft.

TWENTY-TWO OKLAHOMA TODA

The above official emblem will be seen often this autumn, as we celebrate our 60th Anniversary of Statehood. Oklahoma's progress and accomplish- ments in a short 60 years are incredibly extensive. Every item in every issue of Oklahoma Today in some way recognizes one such accomplishment, and new accomplishments are made by Oklahomans daily. Just for example; Bob Dickson, of Muskogee, in recently winning the British Amateur Golf Cham~ionshi~.-,has added another International Championship to the triumphs of Oklahoma sports stars. The U. S. Surgeon General's report indicates that Oklahoma's young men are in the best physical and mental condition of any in the nation. The MARJORIE TALLCHIEF national average of men disqualified for Selective Service is 37.6%. Oklahoma, with only 20.3% of its men disqualified, has topped every other state. An Oklahoma City family won the national com- petition for designing an official emblem for the new U.S. Dept. of Transportation. James Ashworth, his wife Neva, their sons Mark and Rocky, designed a seal incorporating a white triskelion on a red background, symbolic of progress in air, sea, and ground transportation, the triskelion's counter clock- wise motion symbolizing continuing efforts to re- duce travel time.

The Four Moons, an original ballet production to be presented in Tulsa, October 28, and in Oklahoma City, November 2 is a major project of Showcase '67, celebrating Oklahoma's 60th Anniversary of Statehood. Featured will be Yvonne Chouteau, YOU BELONG TO A NOBLE COMPANY Rosella Hightower, Moscelyne Larkin, and Marjorie Tallchief. The four world-renowned Oklahoma bal- BY lerinas, all of part Indian heritage, will be dancing Betty Prim to music composed by another famed Oklahoman, 0, young Sooner teacher, Lewis Ballard. American Indian composer Ballard, With the glow of early Eden most recently recognized for his Koshare ballet, has In your far-searching eyes, utilized the songs and dances of the Five Civilized And bright new plans etched clearly in your mind, Tribes in creating the music for The Four Moons. While safe in your heart The ballet is a pas de quatre, a form last used almost Are shimmering young dreams. a century ago. Directors of the production will be Keep them burnished, keep them bright; Roman Jasinski and Miguel Terekhov, choreography You now belong to a distinguished company . . . for Marjorie Tallchief by George Skibine. Rosella A noble company Hightower now heads the Center of Classical Dance, Of men and women Cannes, France. Miguel Terekhov and Yvonne Who have brought across the miles, Chouteau are Artists-in-Residence at Oklahoma Uni- Across the years, versity. Roman Jasinski and Moscelyne Larkin di- The art of learning, of discipline, of purpose, rect the Tulsa Civic Ballet. Marjorie Tallchief is For the youth of our land. guest ballerina with the Harkness Ballet. The Tulsa Unroll the scroll and read their history: and Oklahoma City Civic Ballet companies will form No teacher has ever attained great wealth, the corps de ballet; the music will be performed by Nor has the Nobel Commission the Tulsa Philharmonic, Franco Autori conducting; Ever chosen a teacher and the Oklahoma City Symphony, Guy Fraser For their illustrious award. Harrison conducting. Too long have teachers been held back,

TWENTY-FOUR OKLAHOMA TODA

Held back by prejudice, IRON MEN by C. H. McKennon (Doubleday & Disturbed by complacency. Co., New York, $5.95) Using the life of U. S. Dep- Yet this noble company uty Marshal Paden Tolbert, the author gives us a Has made giant strides fine word portrait of Judge Isaac Parker, Tahlequah Along the brarnbled way; and Indian Territory Oklahoma, and the epic strug- The winding road is clearer now, gle between the law and the almost invincible will- Thirst for knowledge endures, ful courage of the Cherokee outlaw Ned Christie. And hope and goodness live on. No dusty historical tome, this Tulsa author cap- And soon, soon, tures the spirit of the era about which he writes. A May the outreach of your mind and heart rare spirit it was, and one that yet more rarely is Join others of your noble company so well depicted in printed words. At conference tables, To lead discussions On social justice and peace For a bewildered world. OFF THE SAUCE by Lewis Meyer (Doubleday The flowering of genius has called you, & Co., New York, $3.95) What can one say about And the glory is . .. you dreamed and came, Lewis Meyer? That he is brilliant, witty, likeable, 0, young Sooner teacher. warm and human? He is all these, and with this book assumes heroic stature for us. Who has the courage to confess his personal weakness to all the world, remain in the city where he is well known, and keep right on looking the world straight in the eye from his television program every Sunday? Lewis does. Who but the erudite Tulsan could re- veal his problems as an alcoholic, to help others wrestling the same problems, and accomplish this without trite preachments, with no self-righteous moralizing, but instead, in a high spirit of good hu- mor. Lewis wins our total respect. We'll toast him with our morning cocktail of pure apple juice, to- morrow, tomorrow, and tomorrow. CZECH FESTIVAL Chairman John Kouba as- sures us there'll be fun for all in Yukon come Octo- AMERICA'S WESTERN FRONTIERS by John ber 7th. The Festival parade is set for 10:00 A.M. A. Hawgood (Alfred A. Knoph, New York, $10.00) Lunch with a Czech flavor along main street. View A virtuoso display of the author's incredible overall the art exhibits. The program, bright with folk grasp of the story of the American West. Oklahoma's costumes and dance, begins at 8:00 P.M. There'll landrushes are well covered. An inconsistency, which be the Czech national dance, polka, schottische, describes Oklahoma as the "center of the dust bowl" and home-spun fun all in the Bohemian tradition. is contradicted by the author's accurate map, show- More dancing after 7:00 P.M. You're expected, and ing that only a very small part of the dust bowl your visit will be welcomed. reached into Oklahoma; by far the greater part of same being in Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and NEW BOOKS Kansas. This first winner of the Knoph BIRDS by George Miksch Sutton History Prize is well illustrated, colorfully and ex- (University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, $9.95) citingly written. Recommended reading, it is also It might be contended that Dr. George Sutton is enjoyable reading. not real, he is a legend. Certainly his research ex- ploits, in the Arctic, in Mexico, and all over the U.S.A. are legendary. But having accompanied Dr. COWBOYS AND CATTLEMEN by Lela and Sutton and watched him at work from pre-dawn to Rufus Waltrip (David McKay Co., Inc., New York, after dark on a field trip, we know that he is real. $3.95) Each of the thirteen chapters is devoted to a His energy and dedication are beyond belief, but he giant of the American West; Capt. Richard King, is tangibly real. When he writes about the birds he founder of Texas' sprawling King Ranch; John S. has observed and thoroughly studied in his far-flung Chisum, of Lincoln County New Mexico fame; journeys, those birds become real, too. Dr. Sutton, Charles Goodnight, cattle baron of the Texas Pan- one of the world's most distinguished ornithologists, handle; Charlie Russell, western artist; Eugene Mar- chose Oklahoma University as his home base be- lone Rhodes, western author; Burton C. Mossman, cause the wide variety of Soonerland's terrain and who brought law and order to Arizuna, etc. The climate attracts an unusual range of bird species to authors have chosen thirteen westerners without this state. Thus his new book is significant for an peer, each a colossus in western history. Three they area far more vast than Oklahoma alone. It has an have chosen are Will Rogers, Bill Pickett (see page immeasurable significance for us. It is a work pre- 28), and long time Oklahoman and World Cham- viously unequaled, and we will predict that it will, pion Cowboy Bob Crosby; well-earned recognition in all future time, remain unequaled. A large pre- for three great men, and another cardinal indication diction, so we can only urge that you purchase the of Oklahoma's stature in the development of the book, and see if you don't agree! West.

TWENTY-SIX OKLAHOMA TODP

Here is a remarkable portrait of a man. Competent and confident, wearing the boots, the spurs, the uest, the expensive but battered Stetson, the hallmarks of the coulboy's trade. In Bill Pickett's skzllful hands. the lariat, in the use'of which he was unexcelled. His arm rests 1 on his saddle, from which hangs his Angora chaps. For a later I nortrait of Bill Pickett. uiestern I -showman; please turn the page.

OKLAHOMA TODA i_A The steer lunged into the The bait that had fetched the convention was Joe arena. The rider poised behind Miller's offer to entertain the editors with a wild west

;y I the barrier let the steer show at the 101 Ranch. It was quite a show. On June 11, .. L.2 w get a long running start then after three days of convention business in Guthrie, thirty- & his horse plunged full speed five special trains carried the newspaper editors and I after it. spectators to Ponca City. The coaches were loaded with Coming up on the steer's near side, passengers, on top, inside, a few even eager enough to the rider leaped from the saddle. He ride the rods beneath. turned a complete somersault along Sixty-five thousand people from every state swarmed T p the length of the steer's back. flying over the 101 Ranch headquarters. They saw Geronimo out and down over the curved horns to fasten his teeth shoot his last buffalo. They gave the incredible Bill in the side of the steer's mouth. Pickett a standing ovation. They were entranced by the With sheer strength he dragged the running behemoth's cowgirl artistry of the beautiful Lucille Mulhall. The head to the tanbark, thrust its horn in the ground, and rough-riding 101 Ranch cowhands performed feats of forward momentum threw the steer hocks over horns bronc busting, wild riding and roping that brought the in a somersault of its own. editors to their feet applauding and shouting, time Whereupon the steer was altogether happy to lie and again. quietly and rest awhile, with the bulldogger's teeth still They saw bruising Indian stickball, and plains warriors biting its lip, his arms raised aloft to show that he had kicking up the dust in war ceremonials that had been not used his hands at all, and the crowd in the grand- danced in earnest only a few years earlier. At dusk, long stand which had fallen utterly silent-let loose a roar of after the show was over, an Indian attack on a circled applause and amazement. Bill Pickett had performed his wagon train was so convincing that some editors and their bulldogging act with the 101 Ranch Wild West Show. startled wives thought it was the real thing. Out of it all, As Bill's friend Milt Hinkle has pointed out in an grew the 101 Ranch Wild West Show which traveled the article in True West magazine, Pickett was not a big world, and in which Bill Pickett was a headline star. man. He was less than six-feet-tall, weighing a solid 165 Billboard magazine's issue for August 15, 1911, called

BILL BURCHARDT

pounds. Bill was a Negro, a superb athlete, and as lithe Bill Pickett ". . . the modern Urus, in a demonstration of and agile as a circus trapeze performer. His sport was courage, nerve, strength, and agility in which he dupli- rodeo. Perhaps it should be called his vocation, but he cates his feat of conquering a Spanish fighting bull, was first and last, a cowboy. unarmed and unaided, by forcing the largest of bulls to He was not only a cowboy, he was a tophand at that the tanbark of sheer strength." exacting, dangerous, and tough profession. Bill Pickett Pickett had conquered the Spanish bull in Mexico City had begun riding and roping as soon as he was old enough three years earlier, in 1908. The Tulsa World reports that to straddle a horse. Throughout his life he probably spent Bill had not accompanied the 101 Ranch show on that more time in the saddle than he did afoot, working cattle trip to Mexico. Work had to be done at the home ranch and performing in wild west show arenas. even when the show was on the road. The cowboys took Zack Miller, of the 101, first saw Bill perform in 1905. turns in remaining at Ponca to keep the cow work there He hired him on the spot, for that was the year that Joe from falling behind. Miller, with Frank Greer of the Guthrie Daily Leader, The revolution was about to break out in Mexico. The had persuaded the National Editorial Association to hold people of Mexico City, occupied with serious matters, its next convention in Oklahoma. Continued

KLAHOMA TODAY TWENTY-NINE rope toward h snuffy bronc. A flying hoof knocked him down. Eleven days later, Bill died from the coxmlssh. Zack Miller, himself sick and weak, spoke his farewell to Bill at the funeral services held on the 101White House gallery, and there stated that Bill Pickett was the best cowboy the ranch ever had. Quite a statement when you were staying at home in droves, and the show was losing consider the buckaroos who rode for the 101, a rugged $1000 a day. breed who wore the hair on the outside. To stir up some publicity. the Millers started baiting- Zack wrote a poem about Bill. Some would not call it not the bulls, but the bullfighters. The combat in the poetry. Certainly Zack Miller never thought of himself as newspapers between Millers and mutadors culminated in a poet. But they are words from the heart of an oldtime a bet, and a wire was dispatched to Ponca City, beckon- rancher who had lost the friend of a lifetime. Zack wrote; ing Pickett to Mexico. The bet, $5000 plus the gate "Old Bill has died and gone away , receipts (which tuned out to be $48,000 that day), and over the great divide Bill's funeral expenses, was that Pickett could not keep Gone to the place where preachers say his hands on un toro bravo, a fighting bull named Chiquito both sinner and saint abide. Frijole for five minutes. Chiquito Frijole had fought so If they check his brand fiercely in the Plaur del Toro the week previous that the like I think they will crowd had forced the matador to spare his life. It's a running hoss In Pickett's struggle with that bull, his favorite horse they'll give to Bill; Spradley was gored, but Bill clung to the bull's bloody Like many a man in the old time west horns through whiplash evolutions,and though the power- on any job he did his best ful beast battered him against the arena wall. He's left a blank that's hard to fill Bill clung, not for five minutes, but for 6% minutes. for there'll never be another Bill." The timekeeper favored el toro. A beer bottle flung by a It is a hard time when a man buries his friend, and rufhin the stands broke Bill's ribs. 'When Zack Miller Zaek MiIler and Bill Piekett were the kind of friends who and cowboy Vee Pegg rode into the arena, rescuing Bill had raised hell together and put a chunk under it. They by raping Friole's heels, the rwvrks had to rescue the had gone through tough times. Both now lay buried near whole 101 show from attack by the mob of ruffians who the grave of a third friend, White EagIe, once Chief of bad been rooting for the bull. the Poncas. The three graves are on a hill south of Bill was concerned only for his horse Spradley. He Ponca City. managed to stagger out of the arena to his horse. He put A far-famedorganization erected the monument over the , his arms around Spradley's neck. The horse was quivering grave of Bill Pickett, a great cowboy, and the first bull- , with agony, and fell as Bill held him and cried without dogger. The monument bears his mame BILL PZCKETT i shame. A mejicano viejo, who understood this man's love and, beneath it, the insignia of the Cherokee Strip Cow- for his horse, aent a boy running for two red, not yel- punchers Association. dI low, bfmaM8. I The llcejicano peeled the bananas and thrust them deep into the gore wounds in Spradley's haunches. Within minutes the horse stopped quivering. Spradley's gore wounds healed without ever swelling. Bill Pickett was the very first bulldogger. Steer bull- dogging is an event in every rodeo now, but no modern rodeo contestant bulldogs the way Bill Pickett did. Bill never wrestled the steer down with his hands. He would even let them tie his hands behind him while he per- formed the feat. Bill accomplished it by fastening his teeth in the soft flesh to the right of the steer's mouth, the way a bulldog does. In monopolizing the act for twenty years, Bill eventu- ally lost all his front teeth. But he never gave up. Even when the 101fell on bitter times, headed for the auction block in the depression days of the thirties, Bill Pickett remained loyal. When Zack Miller became ill from the train of trying to save the 101, Bill was the only cowboy the old days still left on the ranch. They stuck it from - - out, together, to the last. In late March of 1932, Bill Pickett, then past seventy years old, went into a corral to rope out a half-bmken mrrel home. The horse reared. Pickett, with the courage that chara* his whole life, went walking up the I an indust11 with adequate mom to grow the Wichita Mountains of the southwest and the Ar- buckles of Johnston County in 1915. He reported his findings in a bulletin published by the Oklahoma Geo- logical Survey; "The lack of capital for the purchase of equipment and a general lack of information concerning the quality of Oklahoma granite appear to be responsible for the slow development of granite resources in Okla- homa. It is believed that this industry gives promise of becoming one of the most important in the state." It hasn't become one of the most important industries in the state, but the lack of capital isn't what it used to be and the nation is finding out about the quality of our granite. The U. S. Bureau of Mines puts the total value of Oklahoma granite produced last year at $687,090. That's a lot more than the $12,000 worth produced in 1901, the first year for which figures were compiled, or the $30,687 produced in 1913, the last figure available when Taylor made his study. Oklahoma granite production remains just a slab in a boxcar though, compared to the output of Vermont and Georgia. There were 8 granite-producing companies in all of Oklahoma at last count. There are 56 operating out of Elberton, Ga., alone. Elberton is where a recent Sooner named Boadie Anderson learned about granite. He knows the business from quarry to cemetery, and he's had 2% years to look at the picture in Oklahoma. "The potentials of Oklahoma granite are certainly unlimited," he says in his soft, earnest Georgia drawl. Anderson moved to Frederick when the Coggins Gran- ite Co. of Elberton bought the Century Granite Co. in To gain a concept of our tremendousgranite raw material resources, visit Quartz Mountain State Park. As you drive 1965. Since then the firm, operating under the Century through these vast granite mountains the statement that name as a Coggins subsidiary, has doubled its business. Oklahoma has enough granite "to supply the world for a "We expect to double it again in the next 2% years," thousand years," begins to take on real meaning.And while you're there, you might as well check in at Quartz Mountain Anderson says confidently. Lodge and enjoy fishing, boating, swimming, sailing, go*, Century is now turning out monuments in five differ- sheboard, dancing on the patio, hiking, picnicing, etc. ent colors from Oklahoma granite. All five have found wide acceptance among customers all over the nation, Anderson says. the fact that it has decided to begin using coIorful Okla- Since purchasing its Oklahoma subsidiary, Coggins homa red granite is significant. Granite has found it feasible to stop the costly process So far, Rock of Ages is quarrying large stones and of importing a rose granite from Sweden and another shipping them out for processing, but there is a good red granite from South America. They've been replaced possibility that it will build an Oklahoma processing by Oklahoma granites, which the customers like better plant. Officials have made a labor survey in the Snyder than the imports. area. Experts in the granite field agree that Oklahoma has Okiahoma may be about to the place where things a superior product going for it. Oklahoma granite com- begin to mushroom. The field is highly competitive, and pares with the best you can find anywhere. It comes when one firm does something and makes it pay others in many colors, coarse-grained or fine-grained. It doesn't are likely to follow. If a Coggins subsidiary is doing absorb moisture or change color so you'd notice it. well with five colors of Oklahoma granite, it's bound Perhaps most important of all, Oklahoma granite is to make other big companies look out this way. highly colorful in an age that is becoming more color- Capital, as it was when Taylor wrote his survey report conscious. That fact is largely responsible for increasing in 1915, is a problem. Equipment for every step of the interest by out-of-state companies in Oklahoma deposits. granite-producing process is expensive. The outlay for Rock of Ages, the Vermont-based firm which is the starting a quarrying operation is the most expensive best known name in the American monument field, has of all. Once there are a few bigger operators quarrying ' been quarrying stone around Granite for five years or stone, smaller firms can start by purchasing their stock so. It is known for a traditional gray monument, and from the big ones. Some will be able to plow their 1

1 OKLAHOMA TO1 State Capitol Building, the old postoffice building in 4 Oklahoma City, and a number of other public buildings in the state came from Johnston County. Production of structural granite requirm the finest - tolerances, and Oklahoma producers have not been tooled for that type of production on a major scale. Anderson sees a good market for Oklahoma structural granite, and his company has plans in that direction once enough skilled help is available in Oklahoma to handle it. Finding skilled workmen will be a problem as the expansion of the granite industry moves along here. In statm where granite has already become a major indus- try, boys have a chance to learn some of the funda- mentals in school. Much of the skill is dependent on feel and experience. An apprentice must learn most of his trade by doing it. In most of the tight operations run so far in Okla- homa, there hasn't been a lot of time left over for a trained man to leave the job at hand and devote time to teaching a fine point to an apprentice. Century is negotiating with some craftsmen from a Kansas City firm which is going out of business in an effort to hire them strictly for teaching purposes. The Willis-Pellow Brothers Monument Works at Granite is unique in Oklahoma. It quarries its own stone, does all the processing including engraving, then de- = livers and installs the monument. Most of the monu- ments are trucked within a 250-mile radius of Granite, 5 but the plant has customers all over the country. J J. R. Willis, an engineer and former utilities manager 5 for Mangum and Granite, purchased the operation about (D o 15 years ago. It had been in business since 1912. Willis' son, Bill, is sales manager and another son, Fred, is business manager. The Willis-Pellow Bros. Monument Co. invites "The potential is in the product itself," Bill Willis you to tour their plant at Granite, Okh.; a most interesting tour. A granite block says. "Some of the highest-grade granite in the world in the shape of the Oklahoma map is part of the comes from here." Washington Monument in our nation's capital; He'll show you a polished slab which was hit 25,920 the block was produced at the Willis-Pellow plant. *Jutting up beside the plant is the times in the same place by a three-pound hammer as mountain from which they obtain granite. part of a company exhibit at the State Fair of Oklahoma. It left a shallow scratch the size of your thumb-print. Advanced techniques in all phases of the process have profits from processing operations back into the busi- tended to keep the price of granite products from rising ness, and eventually operate their own quarries. as fast as material and labor costs have. They have also Those 56 companies at Elberton include only about reduced somewhat the problem of training skilled work- a dozen with quarrying operations, and of those only a men. half-dozen are major suppliers. Transportation remains a major factor. The product Century is now running quarries near Granite, Roose- is heavy. Here again Oklahoma is fortunate in being velt, and Cold Springs in the southwest, and at Mill close to some of the fastest-growing markets in the Creek in Johnston County, with its plant and headquar- country. What's more, the coming of water transpor- ters at Frederick. The rock is quarried in 6, 8, 10, and tation in the years just ahead is expected to give state 12 inch slabs. Some goes out as sawed slabs, some as producers a better break on freight rates. Anderson I polished slabs, and some in finished form. About 100 estimates Oklahoma will reach its potential as a granite different types of finished monuments are produced at producer sometime in the next 15 or more years. the Frederick plant. Century granite monuments go to Local monument works, which contribute to the econ- wholesalers all over the United States and in some omy of every town of any size in the state, are another foreign countries. part of the granite industry in Oklahoma. Bill Willis Most of Oklahoma's granite deposits are suitable for estimates 95% of the monuments sold in Oklahoma are 1 either monumental or construction work. The big part granite. But he also estimates that more than half of of the state industry has been involved in production the granite monuments sold in the state are still made of granite for monuments, but considerable building from out-of-state granite. Something ought to be done granite has been used in some periods. Granite for the about that, and it looks like something will. In September, 1966, 's, La- up a personal life in many areas, as well as sacrificing my verne's, Oklahoma's Jane Jayroe became Miss America. home life and postponing my education. I knew almost I Now, her year of reign has ended. Here are her com- nothing about what duties would be required of me, and ments, her candid reactions to the problems, the pleas- this only served to add to the confusion. To sum it up, I , I ures, the pressures she encountered, being Miss America. was very frightened. At that point I didn't feel that I could hold up to the responsibility of being Miss America, hen I went to Atlantic City I didn't that I possessed neither the poise nor the stamina. And expect to win. For that matter, I didn't while I still feel the same way to some extent, I have since even anticipate being one of the final realized that the Miss America title would never go to a 10 contestants. I was like any of the other girl who felt entirely qualified to accept the title. I think 49 contestants in one important respect - I wanted to do my best. this is one of the major qualities that the judges are G&f looking for. The entire week was one of hard work and a great deal While many of my original fears vanished as I became of tension. I think it's important to state at the beginning, more used to my new life, there have been day-to-day though, that all of the girls enjoy it tremendously. difficulties which have accompanied me throughout the , They're all so proud to be there, to be representing their year. For instance, I always cringe when I'm introduced states, that it seems much less difficult. I think it's equally as the most beautiful girl in America. I'm certainly not, important to state that all of the girls are received very and I hate to be compared as people come to see me and well throughout the entire week, by judges and audience go away saying, "Well, if this is the most beautiful alike. I never felt, even during the last few minutes of the girl . . ." I feel that what's inside a person, what she pageant, that there was any difference in the quality of feels about the people around her, what she thinks about personality or ability in any of the 50 girls. herself, are so much more important. The Pageant offi- The Saturday night on TV is just one of four nights of cials always try to help the girl maintain her individuality, ' competition. Of course it is the most exciting night, the but many people persist in thinking that Miss America whole week has been building toward it, and we were all attends a training school where she is taught to walk, sit, excited that night when we got dressed and faced the and stand. Nothing could be farther from the truth. audience to hear the names of the ten semi-finalists. The title of Miss America is something which each girl From that moment on I had very little time to think. can more or less create in her own way. Each girl who With just ten girls competing, the pace was much quicker. wears the crown gives the title a little more meaning When it came down to the top five, was very I Maybe it's something small--one girl's gift of relating thrilled. I honestly expected to be the fourth runner-up. to children, for example, or another's ability as an excel- I was thinking of all the people at home who were lent public speaker. There are many things which I watching on TV, relatives and all my OCU classmates, cannot do, could never hope to do, which other Miss and how excited they must be getting. In fact, I don't even remember the question Bert Parks asked me, and Americas have done. But I hope that in some small way, I too have contributed something to the title. I only vaguely remember giving an answer. Then it started narrowing down . . . fourth runner-up . . . third One of the most exciting things about the Miss America runner-up . . . second runner-up. When it came down title for me has been the marvelous opportunities I've had to the first runner-up and myself, I was nervous and to gain some experience as a professional entertainer. excited. I did feel quite certain that I was first runner-up. Since my talent presentation in the pageant was a type Then . . . after Bert Parks announced my name as of conducting, last spring I had the privilege of conduct- Miss America I'm very sorry to say that I remember ing the Kansas City Philharmonic Orchestra in a concert very little of what happened. My main thought was with Skitch Henderson. After gaining some insight into don't think about it because it was so overwhelming. the professional's viewpoint, it's much more exciting to I walked the runway, but I don't remember Bert Parks be a spectator, with some knowledge of what's going on singing. I just remember thinking, "You'll look awful if behind the scenes. you cry too much." It's not often, though, that I've had the opportunity to Later that night the phone messages and the telegrams be a spectator. Traveling is probably the most tiring started; and even now I enjoy that night more than I did aspect of being Miss America, but in many ways it's also then because I have time to look back through the mes- the most rewarding. A little more than a year ago Okla- sages and cables I received, many from total strangers homa City was a large city far away from my hometown who just wanted to tell me how proud they were that a of Laverne. Then New York seemed like such a far away girl from Oklahoma had accomplished this. place. When I returned from Europe, though, landing in There were many personal adjustments to be made. Nothing is quite as sudden as the crowning of Miss America. She is a celebrity all at once, literally within a few seconds. So it was quite an adjustment for me, since my previous surroundings, both my hometown and the OCU campus, are quite small. But I feel that it would be a tremendous adjustment for any girl, no matter what size town or school she was from. Of course it meant giving INTERVIEW WITH JIM BURROUGHS I THIRTY '-"" OKLAHOMA TOD1 New York I felt that I was almost back in Oklahoma! While I know that I have grown in worldly knowledge during the year, I also feel that my inward faith has taken on new dimensions. Being Miss America is a full-time job, and the tension involved is not something that you can bear alone. Learning to share with God has been as important to me this year as learning how to handle a rigorous schedule of personal appearances. Our schedule was very difficult, often taking us to six

~klahoma.city- ~niverkty, Mrs. Toni Spencer, the director of the Miss Oklahoma Pageant, to all of you. So may I just say-thank you!

THIRTY-FIVE A SPECIAL SOMETHING TO SEE IN SOONERLAND

BY BEATRICE STEBBING

May we suggest a new kind of autumn bur for Okla- homa? A tour of "singing windows" can add variety to autumn foliage along the way. The contrasting cascades of color can be an ins~iration. In the Oklahoma showcase are examples from the ma- jor stained glass studios of the United States, windows imported from Europe, windows designed and made in Oklahoma, and at least two examples of glass more than 400 years old. Every style is represented, from the tra- ditional and conservative to the extreme in contemporary design. Windows of mouth-blown glass, the material used for the finest leaded windows today, can be found in all The Oklahoma History window, John Wesley Raley ChE parts of the state. There are also many examples of the Oklahoma Baptist University, Sha newer faceted-windows in which thick chunks of glass color photo by Paul E. ~e~q are set in concrete-like epoxy compounds. In both types the glass appears almost black when viewed in surface At lower right, LaSalle, who claimed this area for light from the exterior of the building. In contrast, ma- in 1682. Lower center, the signing of Doak Treaty, chine-rolled opalescent glass, widely used during the first part of this century, has milky swirls of color Above the center is the first Baptist church in the tern' visible from both sides. and two Indian. Will Rogers is a central figure. Above Those who prefer the traditional should surely visit the First Presbyterian Church in Oklahoma City. One Cherokee Advocate, first territory newspaper, and our c city skyline. At the crest of the window is the Oklahoma of the largest installations in the nation of windows done and the American Flag as it was on November 16, in the medieval manner is found here. Twenty-four when Oklahoma became a s THIRTY-SIX OKLAHOMA TOD1

windows, by Willet of Philadelphia, were installed in stalled in at least three Oklahoma churches; All Souls the main nave in 1964. They are marked by strong Episcopal Church in Oklahoms City, St. John's Catholic rhythms suggestive of their 20th century origin. Willet Church in Bartlesville, and Sharp Memorial Chapel at windows of a period approximately ten years earlier Tulsa University. Except for the abstractly designed side are in the chapel of the same church; the more re- windows of the TU chapel, the French windows are inter- strained design and smaller pieces of glass give a mosaic- pretations of traditional subjects, necessarily broad in like quality, an interesting contrast to the later work. treatment because of the nature of the thick glass in In Tulsa, at St. John's Episcopal Church, are win- heavy matrix. dows skillfully designed in medieval style by Connick One of the largest installations of faceted glass in of Boston. Medallion groupings with rhythmic repetition Oklahoma is at Christ Methodist Church in Tulsa. The of figures are characteristic of the designs which carry windows are designed in sweeps of color with recogniz- the brilliant reds, blues, and ambers of ths Gothic palette. able Christian symbols caught in the larger patterns. Other fine traditional windows in the state are by These were created in 1966 by Orco Studios, San An- Jacoby of St. Louis, as well as by Willet. Many of these tonio, Cecil Casebier designer. are named in the appended list. Not all works listed by A major leaded-glass work by Orco is at Shawnee. the two studios are in the traditional manner, as both In Raley Chapel of Oklahoma Baptist University are also work in contemporary styles. twelve large windows designed by Ruth Dunn. The An Oklahoma City landmark for the enthusiast of central window, 12 by 36 feet, is based on the history contemporary design is St. Luke's Methodist Church. of Oklahoma. Beginning with figures of Coronado and Eight 40-foot windows in the circular nave wall are LaSalle at the base, the design weaves together in ascend- combined with tiles so that each window from the ex- ing processions, personages, peoples, and movements of terior appears to contain a great figure from the Judaeo- Oklahoma's history. Highlighted in conservatively bor- Christian tradition, starting with Abraham on the south- dered side windows of the auditorium are various areas east and ending with Paul. The actual glass begins at of learning included in the university curriculum. the shoulder of each figure; in the symbolism of the win- Elements of Oklahoma history also appear in English dows from the interior, the hands of the outer figures made windows at Grace Episcopal Church in Ponca City. become the hands of God. Inside the building each win- The iconography of the windows is unusually extensive dow has two pictorial sections, one at the balcony level both in scope and in detail, reaching from "Creation" to and one at the main floor. The windows were produced "The Church in Oklahoma." Largely designed by Freder- t., ,s' in the SC Louis studios of Frei Associates, Robert Har- ick Cole, the nave windows were made by J. Wippell - mon designer. Typical of Harmon works is the use of and Company. First windows were installed in 1953 . - painted linear details of great delicacy against dominant and work on the west clerestory openings is still in 5-? ' -.. - <. abstract color movements. progress. The chancel windows by J. and R. Lamb -' -. ,.y Enid's First Methodist Church has unusual exterior Studios of Tenafly, New Jersey, were designed by :' , :. .!.. panels by Robert Frei, third-generation head of the Frei George de Riis. The windows are protected by a textured " .' ' studio. Mosaics of Byzantine tesserae are combined with outer glass which casts uneven shadows in direct sun- - faceted glass, the latter forming a dark background for light; viewing is best on a cloudy day or when sunlight -'* , - the mosaic symbols by day, and changing to sparkling is not striking the glass. abstract color by night from interior illumination. Windows of Immaculate Conception Catholic Church + Faceted windows imported from France have been in- in Pawhuska also touch on local history. Made by Bavar- re .

. 'I * -, . ". THIRTY-EIGHT OKLAHOMA TOD ian Art Glass Company, Munich, and installed between 1910 and 1916, the twenty windows include a panel show- ing the arrival of the first Jesuit missionary to the Osage Indians. Photographs of members of the Osage tribe were used by the artist in designing the panel. Oldest stained glass in the state is probably a fragment attributed to the 13th century, installed in a background panel at Philbrook Art Center, Tulsa. The glass can be found at the head of the stairs leading to the lower floor of the museum and shows a group of horsemen and hounds. Also at Philbrook is a 1926 window by Nicola D'Ascenzo of Philadelphia. A 16th century window may be viewed at Nowata. Originally in the chapel of the Duke of Choiseul near Chaumont, France, the window was brought to this country by William Randolph Hearst. It was purchased by Mrs. J. Wood Glass, in memory of her husband, for the chapel at First Presbyterian Church. The window is an example of colored enamel techniques developed dur- ing the early Renaissance and suggests the Flemish school of painting. In the nave of the same church is a 12-foot rose window designed and made in Nowata.1 A number of other windows designed and made in Okla- homa can be seen in the state. In the chapel at Central State College, Edmond, are windows designed, painted and fired in 1942 by art students of the college. At Disci- ples Christian Church, Bartlesville, are windows made by Gate City Glass of Tulsa.= At Church of the Madalene, and at St. Pius X Catholic Church, both in Tulsa, are windows made in that city by Ludwig Schermer. At Tulsa's Southside Christian Church is a window by Jose Mendez, combining leaded-glass with faceted sections, and made at his Tulsa studio. Formerly associated with Schermer, Mendez also worked on the Pius X windows. The Oklahoma designer-craftsmen are represented in other works in and out of the state. Even so brief a survey as this should help convince the potential window connoisseur that the familiar "lost art" designation for stained glass is a misnomer. Some forty studio members of the Stained Glass Association of America could reproduce medieval windows quite ac- curately today if necessary. Most, however, would prefer to work in contemporary style, to express the spirit of the present century. Stained glass artists are enjoying a renewed emphasis on light and color, qualities inherent in the raw material. There are now more ways of combining glass and color than could be accomplished by the medieval guildsman who made his own glass, cut it without benefit of sophisti- cated tools, fashioned his own leads, solder and braces, and who might work twenty years in one cathedral. Oklahoma is sharing in the renaissance of stained glass. New installations are constantly being made in the state -your first tour may bring you to an unexpected "find." Our list of Oklahoma windows of mouth-blown and faceted glass is necessarily incomplete, but it is inclusive enough to start the stained glass viewer on a tour from any part of the state.

1 This window is the work of Beatrice Stebbing, author of this article. 2 Designed by Mrs. Stebbing.

KLAHOMA TODAY THIRTY-NINE - f'

TO) (,&%a HDNlMUBLZDWrn -OR, n*m OF GhKLAW-A

VOLUME 17, NUMBER 4 ' AUTUMN 19117

EDITORS BllL BURGHMDT PAUL E LEFE&VRE mm , .wImomxuP * w W, S& *w*r~lnwr

#*M(tDU mt H PWL#UtD Y*,I* tY. Irrrf+m oe *u o- r* W 7-1 w#-errmt run rarw ..*~n+wmr. RariERTH.- #WIR I 'P& -3 r: 1 +- 0-A -MY. WILL -1111 IbW.. *TAm mPmI O**)teU* ,A- on^. wUWow*. Sr.w #n mn rw u.*, fine muPlrr~ttw rU*w*a*l rar UMLC corv. , q.'c >l ' - " .?I*?'I, 11 M 'k" ODCOW~R trn mr on*wu m~rw~rwI-W sun : ' C~HUIHIDrr OUI~ SI~RO m O~IU)(WI , 1' ,'{*r 5.. 8 I -.\ $ t, L br m?qy$Y.L, , j ,ilk -,' * m THIS xssm U I

- -- C bLGHwJ...1.1.2 1

r r 7 crt.cuerul8 OF EVgNTS byXUEN~SAYZUE. . m r 10 $6;STAfB PA= OP' OKtAHOMk :-.u .. . . a>. . I'. * . .11 TULSA ST&= FAIR I...... u -., ,- wEm-14 A A IIIIWWA m +t $.4 "S ,, LC '? mm. - - - . 14 '- fblDUSTPT m s-,4-5 22

~.*.ro.rn.24

C..*eeoQl

MUS IkMEUcA \ - AC..lPIPI.JCIQOVPm.*r. • r 0.34

i .m ,. .'. . sTAr ems WImr I"- .,.-WY BEh!SEBZ . . . 36 - .. .- , . T - .- , . v u ,I C -- fi,, + . :,a \ , I/- 1 , ' I 41 L I* < ' , rm &. , ,- -,-- .! &A iU.$?