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Northbank Book STRANDS OF HISTORY Northbank Revealed Clive Aslet Strands of History Northbank Revealed by Clive Aslet First published in 2014 by Wild Research, 40 Great Smith Street, London SW1P 3BU www.wildsearch.org © Wild Research 2014 All rights reserved The Northbank BID West Wing, Somerset House, Strand, London WC2R 1LA www.thenorthbank.org ISBN 978-0-9576966-2-4 Printed in Poland by ? ‘Looking to Northumberland House, and turning your back upon Trafalgar Square, the Strand is perhaps the finest street in Europe, blending the architecture of many periods; and its river ways are a peculiar feature and rich with associations.’ Benjamin Disraeli, Tancred: or, The New Crusade, 1847 ‘I often shed tears in the motley Strand for fullness of joy at so much life... Have I not enough, without your mountains?’ Charles Lamb, turning down an invitation from William Wordsworth to visit him in the Lake District Contents Foreword 10 Chapter One: The River 14 Chapter Two: The Road 26 Chapter Three: Somerset House 40 Chapter Four: Trafalgar Square 50 Chapter Five: Structural Strand: Charing Cross Station and Victoria Embankment 58 Chapter Six: Serious Strand: The Law Courts 64 Chapter Seven: Playful Strand: Shopping, Hotels and Theatres 72 Chapter Eight: Crown Imperial: The Strand Improvement Scheme 82 Chapter Nine: Art Deco and Post War 94 Chapter Ten: The Future 100 Image Acknowledgements 108 Further Reading 110 About Wild Research 111 7 8 About the Author Acknowledgements Clive Aslet is an award-winning writer and Maecenas molestie eros at tempor malesuada. journalist, acknowledged as a leading authority Donec eu urna urna. Donec dignissim nisi elit, on Britain and its way of life. In 1977 he in convallis massa egestas in. Cras id ultrices joined the magazine Country Life, was for 13 lacus. Nam ultrices velit eu sapien consequat years its Editor and is now Editor at Large. He pulvinar. Integer egestas eleifend fermentum. writes extensively for papers such as the Daily Vestibulum quis tempor nunc. Nunc a est vel Telegraph, the Daily Mail and the Spectator, sapien porttitor pharetra. Curabitur scelerisque and often broadcasts on television and radio. laoreet tellus ac lobortis. Morbi ultricies, magna He is well-known as a campaigner on the id mollis sodales, arcu magna tempor libero, countryside and other issues. vitae luctus risus ante vitae nisl. 9 Foreword The Lord Shuttleworth KCVO Chairman of the Council, Duchy of Lancaster In 2015, the Duchy of Lancaster will in 1399 that Henry Bolingbroke, then Duke of mark the 750th anniversary of the creation of Lancaster, claimed the crown of England and the Lancaster Inheritance. Still owning the declared that his Lancaster Inheritance should Savoy Estate between the Strand and the forevermore be held as a private estate of the Embankment, the Duchy surely has a strong monarch, separate from all other Crown lands. claim to be the longest inhabitant in the area of The Duchy remains to this day the owner of London now known as Northbank, the subject most of the site of John of Gaunt’s immense of this timely and fascinating book by Clive Palace of the Savoy, notwithstanding its Aslet. physical destruction by Wat Tyler and others The Inheritance can be traced back during the Peasants’ Revolt as long ago as 1381. to Peter of Savoy, whose niece, Eleanor of One of our buildings, the enchanting Queen’s Aquitaine, wife of King Henry III, gave the Chapel of the Savoy, originally built in 1512 manor of the Savoy to her second son, Edmund as part of the hospital created on the ruined Earl of Lancaster. It was Edmund’s grandson site by Henry VII, may be the oldest building who was created the first Duke of Lancaster, on the north bank of the Thames between and the Inheritance passed to his daughter Westminster Hall and Temple Church. Blanche, who married John of Gaunt. It was It is precisely because of our place in the 10 history of the Northbank area that the Duchy work as an author, a journalist, and a renowned of Lancaster will play its part, along with editor of Country Life. With his expert eye for many neighbours, owners and occupiers, detail, and a strong sense of tradition and place in the developing vision for its future. While but with plenty of original ideas for the future, safeguarding and indeed promoting the history he is just the person to write about Northbank. and rich traditions of the area, its thoroughfares With this book, Clive demonstrates a real and buildings, we also want to participate in feeling for the character of the area, and for its its evolutionary development. For example, evolution as an important part of our capital we expect to continue our custom of beating city. the bounds of the manor of the Savoy, with members of the Council led on foot by the Clerk and the Chapel Steward and choir from one Shuttleworth boundary marker to the next, set in the walls of August 2014 various offices, a theatre, and the Embankment itself. At the same time, we are pleased that in addition to our mix of modern retail and office space, we have recently introduced some new student accommodation, recognising the increasing value of people living in Northbank. I first came across the work of Clive Aslet some 25 years ago. When I was appointed chairman of a government agency, the Rural Development Commission, I asked a respected senior civil servant to recommend some background reading about relevant issues. He said there was not much available but I should have a look at some of the things written by “a young man called Aslet”, who in his words “seems to talk some sense”. Since then, Clive has produced much thoughtful and informed 11 12 FIG 1 Map of the Northbank Business Improvement District’s ‘footprint’, stretching from Trafalgar Square in the west along the Strand and the Victoria Embankment as far as Aldwych and the Royal Courts of Justice in the east. Countless landmarks fall within the boundary. 13 Chapter One The River First there was the river. It did not look This ‘fifteen-foot enigma’ is, in its present form, like the modern Thames, corseted between largely Tudor, but the spring which feeds it nineteenth-century embankments. Two bubbles into a Roman reservoir. A Roman coffin thousand years ago it resembled a piece of and pottery have also been found in the area. fraying cloth, broader and shallower than the (The bath remained in use into the Victorian present river, which wove its way between period, when Charles Dickens so much enjoyed a mass of little islands. To either side was an his plunges that he ambiguous area, neither wholly river nor wrote about them in “To begin with, wholly land, made up of mudflats, reed beds David Copperfield; London was nothing and marshes. Herons fished here. So did less happily, the communities who made their living from the antiquarian William more than the walled river. A road grew up, going to the bridge built Weddell, MP, died City of London, a by the Romans. It ran along the steep-sided ‘from a sudden chill’ square mile.” ridge that went parallel to the river. It came to after plunging in, in be called simply ‘Strand’. 1792). To begin with, London was nothing more It was not only the rich who congregated than the walled City of London, a square in these parts. The civic authorities excluded mile. Wealthy individuals had country estates outsiders — undesirables of all description outside the walls: evidence of one of them — from the comforts and protection of the may survive in the so-called Roman Bath that City. Tanneries, gaols, brothels, play houses exists in Strand Lane, an alley off Surrey Street. — anything that would upset the not-over 14 FIG 2 The Thames from Somerset House Terrace towards the City, by Canaletto, circa 1750. Part of a pair of paintings by the Italian artist, its counterpart looks along the river in the opposite direction towards Westminster. 15 fastidious nostrils or moral sensibilities of the signify a village near an old Roman fortification, Middle Ages could only settle down around the in this case London). They may have taken over City’s skirts. In an earlier period, Scandinavian a small wooden church that already existed; if settlers — the friendlier face, as one might so, this was rebuilt in stone in the reign of the hope, of the Viking migrations — were also King Cnut (himself a Dane) at the beginning kept at arm’s length. Had they been fiercer, they of the eleventh century. It was one of several would not, presumably, have been content with churches with Scandinavian names, five in land west of the City, well-watered by streams the City being dedicated to St Olaf (or Olave), flowing briskly towards the Thames, but the zealously Christian King Olaf Haraldsson otherwise somewhat lonely. As it was, they are of Norway who had been canonized after his remembered in the name of the church of St death in battle in 1030. The impression given Clement Danes, its location by a charter of 951, given perhaps originally related by King Edgar to the small to the spring which fed the Benedictine monastery Roman baths. that became Westminster St Clement was a Pope Abbey, is that it was a bleak who died at the end of spot, referred to simply as the first century when the London Fen. It sounds as Emperor Trajan ordered though it would have been him to be tied to an anchor damp and marshy. and thrown into the sea. He became the patron According to another source, however, the saint of sailors, as well as feltworkers, and as area a little to the west of St Clement Danes such had a special appeal to the seafaring was ‘a delightful spot, surrounded with fertile Vikings, or those of them that were Christian.
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