★ BILLET TATTOO★ WILDWOOD TATTOO BASH★ THE TATTOO SHOPPE★
BUYER’S GUIDE FOR BODY MODIFICATION PROFESSIONALS
NOVEMBER 2018 #198
ꢗ ꢗ ꢖ ꢕ ꢊ ꢅ ꢌ ꢔ ꢁ ꢂ ꢀ
ꢆ ꢈ ꢊ ꢓ ꢒ ꢍ ꢑ ꢐ ꢊ ꢏ ꢎ ꢍ ꢋ
ꢆ ꢌ ꢇ ꢀ
ꢂ ꢋ ꢇ ꢅ ꢃ ꢄ ꢀ ꢊ ꢃ ꢉ
ꢆ ꢁ ꢇ ꢆ ꢈ ꢇ ꢅ ꢃ ꢆ ꢂ ꢅ ꢁ ꢄ ꢃ ꢂ ꢁ ꢀ
staff
Publisher
NOVEMBER
Ralph Garza
Editor-In-Chief
R Cantu
Account Executive
- Jennifer Orellana
- [email protected]
505-332-3003
ꢀꢁꢂꢃꢄꢂꢃꢅ
Managing Editor
- Sandy Caputo
- [email protected]
12
Feature:
Art Director
No Ragrets
SOM 20
Jason Bourne
16
Hidden Los Angeles
Ask Angel
Contributing Writers
Elayne Angel Austin Ray
David Pogge Darin Burt
18
Art Gallery:
Hidden LosAngeles
Tanya Madden
PAIN Favs 25
26
The Tattoo
Shoppe
Executive Assistant
Feature:
- Richard DePreist
- [email protected]
505-275-6049
Inking the Deal
PAIN Favs 22
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Spotlight:
Billet Tattoo
Artist Profile 36
BodyArt Solutions
PAIN Magazine
Nate Laird
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Spotlight:
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Since 2001, H2Ocean has been the world leader intattooandbodypiercingaftercare.H2Ocean’sointmentbased, andwaterbasedproductshealyournewtattooorbodypiercing faster because we use unrefined mineral enriched sea salt hand harvested from the worlds most diverse ecosystem – the Red Sea.
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Copyright 2018 PAIN Magazine. All rights reserved. Published monthly by Pain, Inc. Subscriptions available for $39/year (U.S. funds). Send requests to address listed above. Please mail address changes, and include label from previous issue. For all other information call (505) 275-6049. For submission guidelines, log on to our website at www.painmag.com. Pain, Inc. assumes no responsibility for contents herein. Opinions expressed in articles are strictly those of the writer.
Micky Sharpz USA Nat-A-Tat2
10 21
PAINMAGAZINE 8
owdy folks and welcome to the November issue of Pain Magazine! Only two months left of 2018 and we are rockin’ it over here! How has your year shaped up?
H
With so many incredible new launches on the horizon for Pain…
I’d like to remind you all of what’s up next as we close out 2018 and enter 2019.
First, we all know that the Internet has changed the way people and businesses shop for and buy products, which is why Pain has elevated its online presence. In addition to being the industry’s number one printed publication, Pain is in the process of launching THE premier online buying source for everything this fine industry has to offer! This digital marketplace will include a fully functional shopping cart feature; and wholesalers/vendors will be able to promote, market, and sell products through a personal digital page. Pre-qualified, registered buyers (shop owners and professional artists) browsing the site will be able to access participating wholesaler pages and place orders directly from the Pain Mall Website.
Only approved and registered buyers will be able to make purchases through your direct digital pages. Please call Jenn today at 505-332-3003 to create your customer profile! And the best part… It’s FREE!
Next, Pain’s Favorite’s is a new section where professional artists can showcase their work ---- artists will receive a full page of dedicated space, which includes up to 12 images, a bio, headshot, and contact information. This is an opportunity for your work to reach the entire tattoo and piercing community…Think of it as your big chance to brag. We’ll send you some extra copies of the magazine too so you can display it in your waiting area or frame up your feature and hang it in your work station. You can even send one to Mom! Call Jenn today at 505-332-3003.
Lastly, Pain will be launching a brand new website in early 2019!
Stay tuned for advertising options and details. Hope you all have a wonderful Turkey Day this November…and don’t forget to start planning for the biggest shopping day of the year…BLACK FRIDAY! O
PAINMAGAZINE 10
FEATURE
PAIN
“You’re going to regret that when you’re older.” It’s catechism number one of the tattoo industry’s detractors. But is it true? If you sit in at an afternoon bridge club or hang out in the stands of a high school soccer game, you’ll likely hear enough anecdotal evidence to solidify the statement as gospel. But anecdotes are why people try to cure cancer with castor oil. What does the actual data say? Is there any on the subject? As it turns out, there’s plenty. Academia is watching.
To cut through the speculation, we sifted through 15—yes,
15—peer-reviewed, academic articles, plus a public poll on tattoos, covering their evolving social status and their psychological effects on those who obtain them. The process was illuminating, but mind-numbingly tedious. Academia has a real knack for sucking the life out of otherwise interesting subject matter.
So, how much merit is there in the fearful mutterings of child-rearing suburbanites? Statistically, not much.
First, we have the numbers from a national poll conducted by Harris Insights and Analytics in late 2015. Of those surveyed who had tattoos, only 23% expressed regret over their choice. Of that 23%, the most common regrets were what you would expect. They got it too young, their personality has changed, it’s an ex-lover’s name, it’s poorly executed, it lacks meaning; basically, all the textbook faux pas actively avoided by selfrespecting artists.
It should be noted, however, that tattoo regrets have risen by
9% since 2003. But considering the rapid growth of the industry during that period, it should be expected. In 2003, the percentage of the populace with one or more tattoos was at 16%. By 2015, that number had jumped up to nearly one in three. Among the youngest demographic (18-24) the rise took an even steeper climb, from 13% in 2003 to 35% in 2015. No, we’re not mixing up proportions with raw numbers.
continued on page 14
PAINMAGAZINE 12
painfeature
continued
We are merely suggesting that the intense spike in the numbers, especially among the young, suggests a hastiness in the populace, perhaps recklessly so, which again, leads to the reasons for regret cited by the survey.
Equally compelling is a 2011 academic study conducted by
Viren Swami of the University of Westminster in London. Swami recruited 82 clients from a London tattoo parlor and conducted three surveys, one preceding the tattoo, one immediately following, and one three weeks later. The surveys focused on the overall confidence of the subjects, self-esteem, body image, etc. The results extensively erode the authority of the conventional wisdom on the subject, if not directly contradicting it.
“Indeed,” he wrote, “the present study found that obtaining a tattoo resulted in a significant improvement in self-esteem over a three-week period among both men and women. This finding is notable because it highlights the positive impact of obtaining a tattoo on an individual’s overall sense of self.”
Tattoos and the Self, a 2012 study that focused specifically on women with tattoos, further illustrates a low recipient-to-regret ratio. Of the women surveyed, 87% stated that they were happy with their choices and planned to get more tattoos in the future. Those that did express regret gave reasons largely analogous to those previously cited, which as already noted, can be largely avoided through the current existing practices of quality parlors.
But not even academia is completely capable of pure objectivity. There was more than one study in which the authors seemed to rely heavily on residual cultural bias. One article from South Korea, for example, viewed the growing comfort with tattoos as cause for alarm, based purely on previous unsavory associations the trade has now largely shed.
“Continuous attention to, and interest in, the increased incidence of tattooing and piercing are necessary, especially in terms of public interventions for health education and health promotion, as these forms of self-adornment are associated with behaviours that pose a risk to health,” they concluded. Somewhere within the thought process was an arguable confusion of correlation and causation, as well as use of outdated metrics.
Overall, however, even the most biased of studies failed to prove any significant negativity associated with getting a tattoo regarding the internal state of the recipient. There is still more ground to cover on the external perceptions—meaning other people’s view of a tattooed person—but even there, the numbers are moving in a positive direction. For example, according to the Harris Poll, 58% of Americans now say they are comfortable with having someone with tattoos in the Oval Office.
Given the topic of the discussion, these trends will be difficult to reverse. Tattoos, by their nature, aren’t a fad that can just fade away like a style of jeans or a brand of shoes. So long as quality artists continue to wrest control of the industry from the scratchers, honing their craft and exercising cautious responsibility, we will likely see an end to the remaining stigmas on tattoos in our lifetime.
Years ago, your parents were right. But now they’re wrong. O
PAINMAGAZINE 14
Ask Elayne Angel
Jewelry Quality
Matters
Dear Angel, I know you say that internally threaded jewelry is best, but is there really that much of a difference? It is so much more expensive than what I use. For sure the external stuff from China isn’t the best, but it is supposed to be made of 316L stainless steel, so that’s good, right? I want to stay competitive but I’m kinda torn because I want to be the best piercer I can. Most of the piercings I do seem to heal out okay. Does it really matter?
Thanks for your help, A.
- Dear A.,
- [Note: The EEC Nickel Directive is a regu-
lation that requires a low rate of nickel release for all materials used for costume or fine jewelry, belt buckles, watches, or other metallic accessories with direct skin contact. It does not specify nor prove that a material is safe to wear in the body; therefore, compliance with this directive alone is not sufficient for meeting the APP initial jewelry standards.] is 316 (whether L or LVM), does not have any guarantee that it meets ASTM f138 or ISO 5832-1 standards. These are the specific, recognized metals requirements for steel and titanium body jewelry. Metals that bear these designations have been tested and found compliant with the accepted criteria.
I’m glad you asked. Because the answer, in a word, is yes; it does matter. Possibly without exception, inexpensive imported body jewelry is not only cheap in price, but also downright poor in quality. In addition to the threading style, several other critical factors contribute to whether body jewelry is of optimal quality including material, finish, and machining.
As far as external threads go, damage can occur if the rough surface of an exposed screw pattern is passed directly through the tissue during insertion or removal. If the threads are stepped down to fit inside your piercing needles, and if you use tapers that prevent contact with the threads during jewelry changes, the dangers will be minimized. But without those safeguards, using this style can be traumatic. It is like running a small metal file through the body, especially if the hole is new and/or tight. Piercees who change their own jewelry are likely not using insertion tapers, which means there’s greater potential for tissue damage—even with healed piercings.
• Titanium (Ti6Al4V ELI) that is ASTM F136 compliant or ISO 5832-3 compliant
• Titanium that is ASTM F67 compliant • Solid 14 karat or higher nickel and cadmium free yellow, white, or rose gold
• Solid nickel-free platinum alloy • Niobium (Nb) • All threaded or press-fit jewelry must have internal tapping (no threads on posts).
• For body jewelry purposes, surfaces and ends must be smooth, free of nicks, scratches, burrs, polishing compounds and metals must have a consistent mirror finish.
When I began piercing professionally in the 1980s, the best jewelry available had not yet achieved the standards maintained by the top producers in the market today. I’ve seen it with my own eyes, and I have absolutely no doubt that piercings heal better with the implant-certified metals and mirror finishes that are now readily accessible.
The Association of Professional Piercers
(APP) minimum jewelry standards for initial piercings were established following extensive research. Below are the current standards, which were adopted in 2009 and updated in April of 2017 to include rose gold:
•Steel that is ASTM F138 compliant or ISO 5832-1 compliant
•Steel that is ISO 10993-6, 10993-10, and/or 10993-11 compliant
Certain glass and plastic materials are also approved for wear in fresh piercings, but for this conversation we’ll stick to the metals.
When it comes to a healing tongue piercing, if any of the basal cells that divide near the surface get pushed into the interior, (as is likely when swapping out externally threaded jewelry), they’ll continue to split and reproduce. This could result in excess
You’ll note that 316L is not mentioned as part of the criteria for materials! Steel that
PAINMAGAZINE 16
epithelial tissue growing inside the piercing channel. Since downsizing the initial barbell is common—and advisable—once swelling is down, the risk is real if tapers aren’t used to prevent tissue contact with external threads. Some companies do make higher quality pieces with external threads, which are fine for healed piercings that do not have tight channels; but, for initial piercings, the internal style jewelry avoids any possibility of damaging tissue with screw threads. Of course, press-fit jewelry skirts that issue entirely by using threadless closures. notoriously has dull, defective finishes. With an uneven jewelry surface, the new cells that are formed during healing grow into the irregularities. Then, when the ornament shifts or moves, these areas tear. As this cycle is repeated, scar tissue forms and healing is delayed. A faulty finish can also introduce bacteria into the wound and cause infection. Cheap captive and fixed bead rings are not annealed like they are with the better brands. Annealing is a process in which the material is heated and cooled to improve its properties. In the case of body jewelry metals, it helps make rings pliable enough to bend fairly readily by hand. Jewelry that is not annealed will be harder—or impossible—to insert and remove without pliers. When rings can be opened and closed without the use of tools, it reduces the risk of damaging the metal and the client (from slipping while applying force to bend stiff rings). best jewelry manufacturing companies operating in the US have been vetted by the APP, and granted “corporate sponsor” status .
As a guest piercer traveling throughout the country, I see that studios have no trouble whatsoever selling this superior inventory. Many are also moving exclusive luxury pieces of gold and gemstones. Piercers are selling a treasure trove of high-end jewelry from coast to coast! Don’t underestimate your clientele’s willingness and ability to pay for quality products.
Though the prices in my New Orleans studio were considerably higher than those of most other local shops, cost-resistance was infrequent when we provided shoppers with an education about the differences in quality, and its importance for optimal safety and healing.
Internally threaded jewelry is more difficult and costly to make. Manufacturers who create high-end internally threaded products are more likely than the bargain-basement guys to use implant-certified materials—and to do superior machining. Better jewelry generally has higher thread counts and deeper screw patterns too,
- so the balls tend to stay on more securely.
- The sign Jim Ward posted in the jewelry
case at Gauntlet decades ago still rings true today. It was a sensible statement in calligraphy on parchment: “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.” My advice is to go for the good stuff; it is worth it! O
You mentioned competitiveness, and as such you should be aware that there’s a vastly expanded, rapidly growing awareness of the APP, thanks to massive social media exposure. More and more consumers are seeking out members of the organization, and the topquality jewelry we use is in high demand. The
The surface finish and polish are also critical. To be safe for healing, metal body jewelry must have a mirror finish—a high-shine, supersmooth surface. Body jewelry that has nicks, burrs, tooling marks, or scratches can cause severe complications. Cheap body jewelry
PAINMAG.COM
PAINMAGAZINE 18
747.888.3539 www.hidden-la.com facebook.com/HiddenLATattoo IG: @hiddenlosangeles
rett Herman is no stranger to the pages of this publication. First showing up as a featured artist a year ago, his name has since regularly appeared as a coauthor for a variety of columns whipped up by our editorial staff for your educational pleasure. The cation of success, they’re maintaining a consistent five-star rating with 97 reviews and counting.
There’s a myriad of factors that greased the track to success, but Brett chalks it up to the basics: the time-tested combination of art and attitude.
B
aspiring seven-string guitarist-turned-black and gray wizard has only been working the needle for a decade. But within that time-span, he’s accumulated a formidable wealth of
It starts with the art, which they have on lockdown. Their six-artist roster boasts a level of quality and notoriety that would keep any shop alive, and that statement doesn’t even touch the diversity. Whether you’re looking for black and gray portrait work, color realism, traditional/neo-traditional, dark art/sci-fi, or something completely different, there’s someone on the list who can make your idea a reality. insight.
But this article isn’t about Brett. It’s about Hidden Los Angeles, the explosively popular SoCal ink destination he cofounded with his colleagues and fellow
- artists,
- Richard
Carniglia and Chris Velasquez. Brett is just
- the mouthpiece.
- “Yeah,” Brett acknowl-
edges, “Our crew had done a
- Only six years in
- bunch of cool shit. Jamie's on
- existence, Hidden Los
- Ink Master now and Marc
- Angeles Tattoo and
- started a style called 'Game
Fine Art has carved an impressive niche for itself. When it started in 2012, it was basically a parachute for three talented artists at a struggling shop about to go belly-up. Now, it’s one of LA’s most celebrated tattoo parlors, listed in the city’s top ten in a variety of surveys and publications. If Yelp is any indi-
Frame' tattooing—all of us have definitely created a niche for ourselves.” But for Brett, this aspect is basically a given. It’s not arrogance that guides this; the work just speaks for itself. He quickly shifts the conversation to the second element.