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Download the Full Article As Pdf ⬇︎ The Mediterranean’s Côte d’Azur — Where It All Began Text and photos by Kurt Amsler Translation by Peter Symes Edited by Catherine GS Lim 14 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Côte d’Azur Coming full circle. It all started in the Med. It was here in the 1930’s and 40’s that the likes of Hans Hass, Jacques-Yves Cousteau, Frederic Dumas and Phillip Tailliez pioneered scuba diving as we came to know it. Erstwhile the obvious choice for dive travelers once the Red Sea and even more exotic destinations became accessible to a wider audience, it fell somewhat out of favor. But now, it’s back on the map, the fish are back and so are the divers. Kurt Amsler gives us the lowdown on diving in what is now his backyard. Wind the clock back to 1937, and water which seeded the inspiration we will find a young man from that would later make him one of Austria by the name of Hans Hass the greatest diving pioneers. spending his holiday after gradu- It was also in this region that ating from high school in the little three Frenchmen from Marseilles— town of Juan-les-Pins on the French Jacques Cousteau, Frederic Dumas Riviera. It was here he observed an and Phillip Tailliez—who later came Diver at Cape Dramont, Esterel, Côte d’Azur (above); The scenic seaside at Englishman hunting for fish under- to be known as the “The Three Mus- Bandol along the Côte d’Azur (top right). PREVIOUS PAGE: Red starfish on reef Historical photo of Hans Hass at Juan-Les-Pins, France 15 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Côte d’Azur Estérel, Côte d’Azur (left); Historical photo of Émile Gagnan with the first Aqua-Lung, 1943 (above); French village along the Côte d’Azur (right) children opening a Christmas package who were quite as excited as we were when we unwrapped this first ‘Aqua Lung’. If this piece of kit was working as intended it would mean a revolution in the diving community. “We procured a set of three medium-sized cylinders with compressed air, which were connected to a regulator the keteers”, first started underwater hunting before experimenting with various equip- ment that allowed them to breathe under- water. This was how the regulator came about. It was here, in June 1943, that what was to become arguably the most important invention in diving was first developed and size of an alarm clock. The regulator was fitted with tested. Jacques Cousteau describes this two hoses that were attached to a mouthpiece. event as an uplifting moment in his book, Kitted up with this equipment strapped on the The Silent World: back, a waterproof mask of glass over the eyes “On the morning of said day, I went to and nose and rubber flippers, we wanted to under- the station in the little town of Bandol on take free and independent daring forays into the the French Riviera and picked up a little depths of the sea. parcel that had been sent to me express “We hurried to a sheltered bay where we could from Paris. It contained a new promising be safe from the prying eyes of bathers and the device, the result of years of struggles and Italian soldiers from the occupational force. I dreams: It was the automatic aqualung checked the air pressure. The tanks contained that Emile Gagnan and I had built togeth- compressed air with a pressure of 150 atmospheres. er. I went back to the villa Barry where my I could hardly contain my excitement and was dive-buddies Philippe Tailliez and Frederic eager to discuss the plan for the first test dive.” Dumas were eagerly awaiting my return. The rest, as they say, is history. Of course, many Jacques-Yves Cousteau with I don’t think there have ever been any other well-known names and places along the the first Aqua-Lung, 1943 Jacques-Yves Cousteau (left) with the first Aqua-Lung, in Bandol, France, 1943 16 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Côte d’Azur Diver on wall of red gorgonian sea fans; Goby, Port Cros (right) Côte d’Azur, closely tied to the for their ancient evolution of diving and technol- shipwrecks, while ogy, which we now take for grant- names like Port- ed today, were in many cases Cros, Cavalaire, La conceived and first tested along Tour de Fondue, these coastlines. or Planier Island Henry Broussard and Dimitri make the connois- Rebikoff developed some of the seur divers’ mouths first underwater cameras and water. flash units in Cannes. In Marseille, The French Rivi- Claude Wesly and Albert Falco era is also the seat (who later captained the research of many leading vessel Calypso) were among the brands of dive first people to spend several days equipment: Scu- in an underwater habitat on the bapro in Antibes, seabed. And, of course, there is AquaLung in Nice, Beuchat and center for skindiving, with commer- the freediving legend, Jacques Oceanic in Marseille. On the Italian cial diving schools such as COMEX Mayol, who lived in Sanary. side of the border, we find equally being based here. Places like Grand Congloué, Le significant makes such as Mares For many years, the world festival Dramont and Antheor are famous and Cressi-Sub. The region is also a of underwater images was based Conger eels (above); Hermit crab (top left) 17 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Côte d’Azur Common octopus (above); Flabellina sp nudibranch (right inset) in Antibes/Juan les Pins before moving to are so many other high- nearby Marseilles. Beginning as a local event lights for a diving vaca- over three decades ago, this annual photo- tion on the Côte d’Azur. graphic celebration is now the world’s biggest and most significant event of its kind. Profitez de la vie! The highlights of the Côte d’Azur are, of —Enjoy life! course, the wrecks. Currently, many hundreds Surely the underwater are known and about half of these are within world off the coast of reach of regular recreational divers. But there southern France now looks quite the “Côte” a special different from experience. the time the aforementioned pioneers went on Technical diving their first exploratory forays into the Diving in the Mediterranean differs from blue realm. But for those who say diving in the topics in several ways. In the that the Mediterranean has nothing Mediterranean, the most beautiful regions more to offer, think again. Granted, are found at depths of between 20 and 40 you have to know the good places meters. This depth already raises the bar with to experience diving adventures regards to the requirements of equipment that do not get any better in tropi- and training. cal seas. Fortunately, there is now In addition, a 10-liter tank (The ubiquitous a very good infrastructure for divers Alu80 used as a standard tank size at many in place with well-equipped dive resorts worldwide contains 11 liters) can only centers from Marseille to Nice. take you so far. It is not really big enough. A As far as the conditions go, the 15-liter tank is more appropriate. Since the wind and weather can sometimes temperature of the Mediterranean decreases get a bit rough and the water is markedly with depth, a good 6mm to 7mm a few degrees colder than in a wetsuit is required in summer; while a dry suit tropical lagoon. But it is precisely comes in handy during the winter. these factors that make diving at Many of the most spectacular sites and John Dory fish, or Zeus faber Mola mola (above); Diver with grouper on reef of red gorgonians (top right) 18 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Côte d’Azur CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Grouper over seagrass; Fried egg jellyfish; Catshark embryo in egg case; Mediterranean moray eel dreds of schools of fish can be found at La Gabiniere, in the National Park Port Cros. For macro fans, the Mediterranean is a never-ending, and always exhila- rating hunting area. wrecks are found in open water not as you know them in tropical Provided you have where ascending along a down- reefs. Thanks to many protection good eyes, you can line is required, so a higher level measures and national parks in spot various kinds of of diving experience and training France, the abundance of fish nudibranchs in all is recommended. The dive cent- is enormous. The colors of the colors and shapes. ers in locations covered in this arti- underwater world are magnifi- The yellow anemo- cle provide excellent service and cent, and rocks and the wrecks nes, the white pol- training. Descending through the are overgrown with large red and more sedentary creatures—such tilefish, which show the same light yps of red precious coral and the blue from a buoy in open waters yellow gorgonians. as moray eels, conger eels, scor- colors as their tropical relatives. various tubeworms never fail to is nicknamed “parachuting” and At this point, I would advise you pionfish, octopus and grouper In open water, you can observe make photographers’ hearts beat can be quite fun, even if it only to always bring a lamp of at least (called Merou here in France)— large flocks of small dark-coloured a little faster.
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