The Mediterranean’s Côte d’Azur — Where It All Began Text and photos by Kurt Amsler Translation by Peter Symes Edited by Catherine GS Lim

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Coming full circle. It all started in the Med. It was here in the 1930’s and 40’s that the likes of , Jacques-Yves Cousteau, Frederic Dumas and Phillip Tailliez pioneered as we came to know it. Erstwhile the obvious choice for dive travelers once the and even more exotic destinations became accessible to a wider audience, it fell somewhat out of favor. But now, it’s back on the map, the fish are back and so are the divers. Kurt Amsler gives us the lowdown on diving in what is now his backyard.

Wind the clock back to 1937, and water which seeded the inspiration we will find a young man from that would later make him one of by the name of Hans Hass the greatest diving pioneers. spending his holiday after gradu- It was also in this region that ating from high school in the little three Frenchmen from Marseilles— town of Juan-les-Pins on the French , Frederic Dumas Riviera. It was here he observed an and Phillip Tailliez—who later came Diver at Cape Dramont, Esterel, Côte d’Azur (above); The scenic seaside at Englishman hunting for fish under- to be known as the “The Three Mus- Bandol along the Côte d’Azur (top right). PREVIOUS PAGE: Red starfish on Historical photo of Hans Hass at Juan-Les-Pins,

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Estérel, Côte d’Azur (left); Historical photo of Émile Gagnan with the first Aqua-Lung, 1943 (above); French village along the Côte d’Azur (right)

children opening a Christmas package who were quite as excited as we were when we unwrapped this first ‘Aqua Lung’. If this piece of kit was working as intended it would mean a revolution in the diving community. “We procured a set of three medium-sized cylinders with compressed air, which were connected to a regulator the

keteers”, first started underwater hunting before experimenting with various equip- ment that allowed them to breathe under- water. This was how the regulator came about. It was here, in June 1943, that what was to become arguably the most important invention in diving was first developed and size of an alarm clock. The regulator was fitted with tested. Jacques Cousteau describes this two hoses that were attached to a mouthpiece. event as an uplifting moment in his book, Kitted up with this equipment strapped on the : back, a waterproof mask of glass over the eyes “On the morning of said day, I went to and nose and rubber flippers, we wanted to under- the station in the little town of Bandol on take free and independent daring forays into the the French Riviera and picked up a little depths of the sea. parcel that had been sent to me express “We hurried to a sheltered bay where we could from Paris. It contained a new promising be safe from the prying eyes of bathers and the device, the result of years of struggles and Italian soldiers from the occupational . I dreams: It was the automatic aqualung checked the air . The tanks contained that Emile Gagnan and I had built togeth- compressed air with a pressure of 150 atmospheres. er. I went back to the villa Barry where my I could hardly contain my excitement and was dive-buddies and Frederic eager to discuss the plan for the first test dive.” Dumas were eagerly awaiting my return. The rest, as they say, is history. Of course, many Jacques-Yves Cousteau with I don’t think there have ever been any other well-known names and places along the the first Aqua-Lung, 1943 Jacques-Yves Cousteau (left) with the first Aqua-Lung, in Bandol, France, 1943

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Diver on wall of red gorgonian sea fans; Goby, Port Cros (right)

Côte d’Azur, closely tied to the for their ancient evolution of diving and technol- shipwrecks, while ogy, which we now take for grant- names like Port- ed today, were in many cases Cros, Cavalaire, La conceived and first tested along Tour de Fondue, these coastlines. or Planier Island Henry Broussard and Dimitri make the connois- Rebikoff developed some of the seur divers’ mouths first underwater cameras and water. flash units in Cannes. In Marseille, The French Rivi- Claude Wesly and era is also the seat (who later captained the research of many leading vessel Calypso) were among the brands of dive first people to spend several days equipment: Scu- in an on the bapro in Antibes, seabed. And, of course, there is AquaLung in Nice, and center for skindiving, with commer- the legend, Jacques Oceanic in Marseille. On the Italian cial diving schools such as COMEX Mayol, who lived in Sanary. side of the border, we find equally being based here. Places like Grand Congloué, Le significant makes such as For many years, the world festival Dramont and Antheor are famous and Cressi-Sub. The region is also a of underwater images was based Conger eels (above); Hermit crab (top left)

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Common octopus (above); Flabellina sp nudibranch (right inset)

in Antibes/Juan les Pins before moving to are so many other high- nearby Marseilles. Beginning as a local event lights for a diving vaca- over three decades ago, this annual photo- tion on the Côte d’Azur. graphic celebration is now the world’s biggest and most significant event of its kind. Profitez de la vie! The highlights of the Côte d’Azur are, of —Enjoy life! course, the wrecks. Currently, many hundreds Surely the underwater are known and about half of these are within world off the coast of reach of regular recreational divers. But there southern France now looks quite the “Côte” a special different from experience. the time the aforementioned pioneers went on their first exploratory forays into the Diving in the Mediterranean differs from blue realm. But for those who say diving in the topics in several ways. In the that the Mediterranean has nothing Mediterranean, the most beautiful regions more to offer, think again. Granted, are found at depths of between 20 and 40 you have to know the good places meters. This depth already raises the bar with to experience diving adventures regards to the requirements of equipment that do not get any better in tropi- and training. cal seas. Fortunately, there is now In addition, a 10-liter tank (The ubiquitous a very good infrastructure for divers Alu80 used as a standard tank size at many in place with well-equipped dive resorts worldwide contains 11 liters) can only centers from Marseille to Nice. take you so far. It is not really big enough. A As far as the conditions go, the 15-liter tank is more appropriate. Since the wind and weather can sometimes of the Mediterranean decreases get a bit rough and the water is markedly with depth, a good 6mm to 7mm a few degrees colder than in a is required in summer; while a tropical lagoon. But it is precisely comes in handy during the winter. these factors that make diving at Many of the most spectacular sites and John Dory fish, or Zeus faber Mola mola (above); Diver with grouper on reef of red gorgonians (top right)

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Grouper over seagrass; Fried egg jellyfish; Catshark embryo in egg case; Mediterranean moray eel

dreds of schools of fish can be found at La Gabiniere, in the National Park Port Cros. For macro fans, the Mediterranean is a never-ending, and always exhila- rating hunting area. wrecks are found in open water not as you know them in tropical Provided you have where ascending along a down- reefs. Thanks to many protection good eyes, you can line is required, so a higher level measures and national parks in spot various kinds of of diving experience and training France, the abundance of fish nudibranchs in all is recommended. The dive cent- is enormous. The colors of the colors and shapes. ers in locations covered in this arti- underwater world are magnifi- The yellow anemo- cle provide excellent service and cent, and rocks and the wrecks nes, the white pol- training. Descending through the are overgrown with large red and more sedentary creatures—such tilefish, which show the same light yps of red precious coral and the blue from a buoy in open waters yellow gorgonians. as moray eels, conger eels, scor- colors as their tropical relatives. various tubeworms never fail to is nicknamed “parachuting” and At this point, I would advise you pionfish, octopus and grouper In open water, you can observe make photographers’ hearts beat can be quite fun, even if it only to always bring a lamp of at least (called Merou here in France)— large flocks of small dark-coloured a little faster. takes a short time to get down. 20 watts, even during the day. can be seen. swallowtails chasing mackerel Only with illumination is it possible On the island of Port Cros, for and the other predatory fish. The wrecks Flora and fauna to appreciate the beautiful colors example, there are places with For several years, large schools Without a doubt, this coastline is The jewels of the Mediterranean on the walls of canyons, grot- more than 30 of these groupers. of barracuda can be found in a paradise for wreck divers. Just are its biodiversity and colors, but tos and caves. In these habitats, Around the red gorgonians are various locations. Practically hun- off Marseille, there are more than Rhizostome jellyfish

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DONATOR FACTS:

ten large vessels, including the Liban experience and services. Type of ship: Freighter reached the and airplanes from the Second World Year: 1931 Spanish coast War such as the German JU-88 and a Donator wreck. The Dona- : 1,698 GT without incident Messerschmitt 109. More can be found tor, or Prosper Schiaffino as Nationality: France and carried on at the height of Toulon and around it was originally called, was Sunk: 10 Nov 1945 towards Toulon. the islands of Hyerschen. built in Norway. She was Cause: Sea mine Since the pas- Here too lie the famous Donor, the 78.28m long and 11.94m Location: Southeast of the sage between the Grec and the Congerwrack of Port- wide with a draft of 5.54m. island of Porquerolles peninsula Giens Cros. Interesting stories are attributed The ship was underway Minimum depth: Mast 25m; and Porquerolles to the Rubis submarine wreck in St from Algeria to Nice with a structure 35m was blocked, the Tropez, and the Togo. The majority of cargo of wine, which was Maximum depth: 51m; rear Donator had to the wrecks were sunk by sea mines stored in countless barrels bow 48m pass on the south during the Second World War. Virtually in the cargo hold and in Difficulty: Advanced side of the island. all the wrecks on the Côte sit on sandy large tanks on deck. Summary: Good On 10 Novem- ground and have become artificial By November 1945, the ber 1945, the fully- reefs, completely covered with fish clearance of mines in the Mediter- loaded freighter was working against and giant red gorgonians. The diving ranean after the war ended was far a strong wind known as the Mistral. centers in these areas are specialized from complete. Hence, the captain At exactly one o’clock in the after- and well-equipped for , ordered increased vigilance and noon, disaster struck. A huge explo- so it is worthwhile to make use of their careful navigation. The freighter sion rocked the ship and tore the THIS PAGE: Scenes from the Donator wreck

20 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO THS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of travel the Donator Côte d’Azur apparent how huge the ship really was. The fore deck can be found a lit- tle deeper. The deck planks have long since rotted away, exposing the cargo hold below. Some scattered metal wine barrels among a scrambled mass of metal debris still remain there to this day. Diagonally across the aft deck lies a huge mast which, until a few years ago, stood up vertically to a depth of 25m. It ultimately collapsed due to cor- rosion and the strain of mooring ships pull- ing on it. What is left of the superstructure is now more of a skeleton

bow apart. The ship had hit a sea very large and swimming around mine, which was either set adrift it is only possible if the is or had gone unnoticed by the weak. minesweepers. A dive to the Donator is an It took only a few seconds after unforgettable experience. More the explosion for the hull to take than 60 years on the seabed in so much water that the stern have transformed the ship into a of the Donator rose into the air. thriving reef. Shoals of damself- Although the ship fought to stay ish swim all over. In crevices and afloat—trembling and shaking but shelters, hundreds of orange red not capsizing—it ultimately suc- tilefish can be found. cumbed and went under, with The stern is clearly the most with perforated metal the sides of the former bridge still the bow going down first. interesting part of wreck, with walls attached. And stand up steeply in front of the huge and lush gorgonians yes, it is possible to swim fore deck where large pieces of Diving: The wreck of the Donator overgrowing the propeller and through from one side of metal debris lay scattered. From now rests on a shallow sand bot- rudder. Here, a large steering the wreck to the other. the extent of destruction, it is evi- tom, with the blasted bow at 48m wheel can be found. And a lit- On both sides, there are dent where the explosion struck. and the stern at 51m depth. The tle towards the bow, a replace- empty davits from where The remains of the bow, which deck is at a depth of 40m, with ment propeller is lashed. Swim- the lifeboats were once now rests on its tip on the sand, is the superstructures about 35m ming next to the four huge prop suspended. The midship surrounded by more debris. below the surface. The wreck is blades makes it immediately has largely collapsed, but

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LE LIBAN FACTS:

Type of ship: Passenger steamer the Liban broke Le Liban wreck. The sinking of the to keep her from sink- Nationality: France midship. Once the passenger steamer Liban outside ing. The towering cliffs Weight: 2,308 tons curtain of water the port of Marseille, with the surrounding the island Year of construction: 1882 had fallen down loss of almost 200 lives, was the made beaching the Sunk: 1903 and the bubbles greatest maritime disaster ever vessel difficult but the Cause: Collision with another boat dispersed, the off Southern France. The disaster captain opted to steer Location: Island of Maire, “Les once-proud ship which struck on 7 June 1903 was the stricken steamer Farillons,” Marseille had vanished. inexplicable. It was neither bad at full steam between Minimum depth: 30m weather and poor visibility nor two protruding rocks at Maximum depth: 36m Diving: The loca- technical failure that caused the Les Farillons in front of a tion at the Les fully-loaded passenger liner en beach. The maneuvre slowly and then, with Farillons where the wreck rests route to Corsica to collide with might just have suc- surprising speed, to is protected from the northernly the incoming steamer L ‘Insulair. ceeded, if not for what sink bow first. Every- winds, but is exposed to the Captain Lacotte, who comman- happened next. Only thing happened so waves coming in from the south deered the Liban, executed some 20m shy of the shoal, fast that the crew or east. maneuvres to free his vessel from the stern of the Liban had no time to The Liban is about 50m long the bow of the L’Insulaire and was slowly began to lift deploy the lifeboats. and lies with her bow at 30m and eventually successful in doing so. out of the water. With A massive explosion stern at 36m. As is usually the case But not before serious damage the propeller out of followed as a boiler with vessels with a keel, the Liban was inflicted on his ship. the water, the ship lost ruptured, tearing rests at an angle of 45 degrees Being aware of the conse- momentum and, under apart the steam on the seabed. Sliding over the quences of the collision, he strong vibrations, the engine. With a deaf- railing and down to the rudder, a decided to head to the Ile Mairé vessel came to a stop. ening crash and in huge bronze propeller sticks out to possibly run the ship aground The Liban began at first a fountain of spray, of the sand. THIS PAGE: Scenes from Le Liban wreck

22 X-RAY MAG : 63 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel MESSERSCHMITT FACTS: Côte d’Azur Aircraft Type: Interceptor Nationality: Germany the 30mm to fly the stricken plane to Le Planier, a Weight: 33,860 pounds cannon firing small island with a lighthouse. Despite the Year: Unknown through the windy conditions and wave action, he Sunk: 7 March 1944 propeller shaft performed a controlled landing about Cause: Engine failure ablaze. 100 yards from the island and then made Location: North of the island His salvoes it ashore. There, he was later spotted and of Planier, Marseille kept missing recued by a German patrol vessel. Depth: 44m their targets due to the Diving: The wreck of the Messerschmitt strong turbulence that threw his plane. lies almost exactly 100m from Le Planier After a second attack and pulling his at a depth of 45m. The plane is only plane back up, the engine suddenly 8.74m long, so it can easily be missed. stalled. Thanks to having gained high It is possible to anchor directly over the altitude and aided by a strong wind, the wreck or to reach it by diving from the pilot managed to glide for many miles. shore. This is always an eventful dive and The two American Lightning fighters left the whole northern side of the island is him alone, apparently having written off covered by gorgonians. In slack currents, the Messerschmitt—the plane already it is easy to get to the point on the rock had smoke coming out of the engine wall just under the lighthouse, which is and steadily lost altitude. exactly south of the wreck. From here the However, thanks to his strong flying plane is easily found by following a com- skills, Captain Fahrenberger managed pass bearing of 0 degrees or due north.

Under the listing side of the hull, there their big googly eyes reflecting divers’ Messerschmitt wreck. On 7 is a dense cover of gorgonians with their lamplights. The abundance of fish and March 1944, the alarm went off intense red color lighting up if illuminated the growth on this wreck never fails to at the German air force base, by a torch. This is a good spot to start thrill me, over and over again. Istre, near Avignon. Two Ameri- exploring the wreck. In the deeper regions of the wreck, lush can B-17 bombers, escorted From the bow, which is still in a good red gorgonians thrive. The deck is deco- by two Lightning fighter-inter- state of preservation, swim over to the rated with yellow horn corals strutting out ceptors, had been detected pile of rubble and iron parts to see the from iron parts and in passages. The deck approaching Marseille. Two huge ruptured boiler that once formed is flattened and there is a large anchor Messerschmitt ME 109 fighters part of the steam engine. This was the winch, which now rests beside the bow. were swiftly scrambled to inter- spot where the explosion that caused the From this point, there is a nice overview cept the enemy planes. vessel’s demise occurred, so the level of of the port side rail of davits, the erect One of these was piloted by destruction is most extensive here. When- bow and one of the masts, which lies Captain Hans Fahrenberger, ever there is current, divers can shelter on the sand of the starboard side of the and the sortie that ensued behind the superstructure. wreck, among a lot of other debris. It would almost cost him his life. Thousands of damselfish usually scoot is highly recommended to bring a dive Once the enemy bombers around on the former salon deck. Above lamp to illuminate the colorful gorgonians were identified, the two Messer- the planks, schools of sea bream often and spot the animals hiding amongst the schmitt attacked without hesi- congregate. Between the badly twisted iron parts. tation. Captain Fahrenberger iron parts, large conger eels hide with dove towards the targets, with THIS PAGE: Scenes from the wreck of the Messerschmitt

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to captivate visiting divers. The wreck remains in an excellent state of preservation, even the conning tower, the gun platform and the mine covers, which, however, have begun to corrode. Meanwhile, gorgoni- ans and sponges have settled on both sides of the hull tubes, in tubes, on pipes, and in the many nooks and cran- nies. Thanks to the many big conger eels, moray eels and scorpionfish that now call the wreck home, the Rubis will con- tinue to be a fascinating dive. There is rich growth

RUBIS FACTS:

Following this Type of ship: Minelayer there. From within able to fire torpedoes. All her 32 awarded the high- course, the plane submarine the barrel of the mines were carried on the out- est French and can be spotted Nationality: France cannon, conger side of the pressure hull under a English medals. To from afar. It looks Weight: 762 tons eels peek out onto streamlined cover. spare the famous like a huge insect Launched: 1931 the world, large Other types of submarines at submarine from lying spread out, Sunk: 1958 tubeworms adorn that time deployed mines through being ignomini- belly up. A blade Cause: Sunk as a the wings and the . The issue with this pro- ously scrapped, it of the propeller memorial monument undercarriage, while cedure was the weight loss that was scuttled with (which, driven by Location: Cap Camarat, the metal surfaces caused the deployment of the full honours in 1958 a 2000 HP engine, St Tropez are encrusted with mine, which required the trim off Cap Camarat, enabled the Minimum depth: 34m mussels. of the vessel to immediately be between Cavalaire Me-109 to go as Maximum depth: 41m Since the wreck is corrected. It was a tricky mat- and Saint Tropez. fast as 727 kph) still so small, it is para- ter. The Rubis could dive to 50m sits, poking out of the sand. The mount to avoid disturbing the and deploy her periscope from a Diving: The Rubis others are gone. The tail, with the seabed as kicking up sand imme- depth of 15m. sits upright in 40m fin still attached, is slightly bent as diately reduces the visibility. On the deck, the dual 75mm of water. When the result of unsuccessful attempts Oerlikon cannons mounted there the water is clear, by some commercial divers to lift The submarine Rubis. The French carried five torpedoes, which her outline can the wreck to get to the cockpit. submarine Rubis was launched could be fired from the rear. be seen from the As the aircraft sits on an open in 1930 and commissioned in During 28 missions, the Rubis surface. There is sandy area of the bottom, it has 1932. The U-boat was designed to deployed 683 mines, which sunk something ominous become an oasis for the marine deploy mines in enemy territory 23 ships. After the war, Rubis was about submarines life that have taken up residence without surfacing but she was also moved to Toulon. The crew was that always seem THIS PAGE: Scenes from the Rubis wreck

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TOGO FACTS:

Ship type: Freighter on the wreck and an abun- back. Secondly, the sedi- ble-hull and was propelled Nationality: France, later dance of fish. The conning ment inside the wreck can by a powerful engine. Italy tower, mine shafts, torpedo reduce visibility to complete The ship was 76m long, Weight: 1,640 tons tubes, hydroplanes and the nothingness in an instant. 10.35m wide and weighed Year of construction: 1882 net cutter on the bow all 1,640 tons. Sailing the large Sank: 12 May 1944 look as if they have been Togo wreck. The Togo was freighter required a 28-man Cause: Sunk by Seemiene taken right out of a movie built by Robert Thompson crew. The Togo managed to Location: Approximately set. But, mind you, this sub- & Sons in Newcastle and get through the First World 800m east of “Pointe marine is the real deal. launched in 1882 under the War unscathed, despite fac- Dubreuil” Bay of La The Rubis is 66m long, so name Ville de Valence. ing all sorts of dangers. While Cavalaire it is possible to swim around Owned by the Compag- it was ultimately a German Minimum depth: 45m the whole wreck in a single nie Havraise Peninsulaire, U-boat—the UC-35—which Maximum depth: 55m at dive. A foray through the it imported citrus fruit from caused her demise, this was the bow; 60m at the rear narrow hatch of the sub- Spain. The ship’s layout was not until a good while after marine into the interior isn’t ground-breaking, and it was the war. was rediscovered only rela- recommended. Firstly, it is the first in a new generation On 12 May 1918, some six tively recently. Although the too tight of a squeeze to get of ships. It was built entirely months after the war ended, fishermen in the sheltered through wearing a 15-liter from stainless steel, had five the Togo perished in the bay made mostly profitable tank or a twinset on your watertight bulkheads, a dou- bay of Cavalaire where it catches despite having their THIS PAGE: Scenes from the Togo wreck

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Diving: The Togo is one of the biggest and most beau- tiful wrecks of the Côte. It is about 60m long but not entirely intact. Parts of the stern, including the a ten- meter-long part with propel- ler, are lying torn off and separate from the rest of the The first impression of the structures. deeper on an already deep ship at a depth of over 60m. wreck as it starts to appear It is recommended that one dive would have a marked The freighter sits upright on out of the din is that it is huge, stays at the deck level, as the impact on dive time and the sandy bottom. The deck overgrown with red gorgoni- sides of the hull and the sandy . is 47m at the bow with the ans, and swarming with fish bottom below are not very On each side of the bow sandy bottom at 55m. schooling around the boiler interesting. Besides, going any and almost in a symmetrical position, there are two anchor winches at least two meters high still attached to their anchors with chains draped across the railing. The bow is pointed and the sides of the hull stand vertically, eight meters above the seabed. Close to the bow, a few skylights can still be seen. On the front deck, there are big loading hatches. It is not worth the while to go inside the holds—aside from a little coal, there is nothing there. After 20m down the front deck is the midship section. From here, divers can either continue along the ladders on either side of the ship or swim about a big gaping, THIS PAGE: Scenes from the Togo wreck

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round hole where the tall smoke Best time to travel stack once stood. On both sides The Mediterranean can be dived of the vessel, davits protrude, all year round. During winter, the now covered with lush red gorgo- water temperature drops to 12ºC nians. (54ºF); by May, it climbs back Inside the superstructure, bath- above 12ºC (60ºF). Consequently, tubs and toilets can be seen. at least a semi-dry, or sometimes One of the masts now lies across a drysuit is a prerequisite for stay- the starboard side. Venturing a ing comfortable during the dive. little further aft completes the Many dive operators now use tour. At this point, the deck is at better suits, permitting them to 51m. Beyond, the stern just seems operate all year round. During to drop off vertically into the dark the mild winters, diving is a real abyss below. treat in the Mediterranean: after Diving the Togo requires proper some days with no wind, the planning from the onset. Among water is crystal clear and there other things, given the sheer size appears to be more fish to see of the wreck, it is important to than in summer. ensure you can find your way Overall, however, the best peri- back to the ascent line. To allow od is from June to October. The for a decent tour, remain at the months of June and October I can deck level, otherwise dive time recommend in particular because, will be too short. Carry a plenti- while the weather is warm and THIS PAGE: Scenes from the French ful supply of gas and use proper stable and the water is clear, there Dive certification & gear must be presented in France and certificates were recognized Riviera were visitors will find picturesque equipment suitable for this type are few tourists and prices at hotels As is the case anywhere in the preferably also a personal log- are long gone and c-cards from villages and enjoy local culture, wiines of dive. and restaurants are lower. world, proof of dive certification book. The days when only French all major training agencies are and cuisine; Port-Cros, France (top left)

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Scenes from Saint-Tropez, France (top left, above, and right); Flabellina sp nudibranch (below); Diver and sea urchin on reef (left)

picturesque villages of Provence makes for a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere. Then, there are the culinary delights. I am not referring to piz-

widely accepted. Most dive centers uti- ment from leading manufacturers can be lize combination tank valves that can be hired in many locations. zas on walking streets, but to all those no place in the world where Cotes de used both with a DIN fitting and A-clamp. small “restaurants” and “brasseries” Provence or a red or rouge Bandol tastes One great feature about the Côte is Profitez de la vie! that are partly hidden in side streets better. ■ that it is a great place for a drive-and- On a concluding note, a diving holi- that put the genuine Cuisine Francaise dive holiday, complete with carrying day on the Côte d’Azur isn’t just about on the table. For more information, visit Kurt Amsler’s along your own dive gear in the trunk. But enjoying what is under the surface. The And from a personal perspective: website at www.photosub.com. if you prefer to travel light, modern equip- landscapes, the scent of pine and the When it comes to wine, there is simply

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