Green Solutions and Sustainability in Textile Industry

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By: Harshita Chaudhary

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Green Solutions and Sustainability in Textile Industry

By: Harshita Chaudhary

Carbon emissions contribute significantly to climate change which is being increasingly recognized as a major challenge. It is widely accepted that the greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions caused by humans are having a negative impact on the environment. A way to track one’s greenhouse gas emissions is to be aware of your carbon footprint. Carbon footprint is a measure of the impact human activities have on the environment in terms of the amount of carbon dioxide and greenhouse gases produced, expressed as CO2 equivalent, measured in kilograms (kg) or tonnes. The textile industry is considered as the most ecologically harmful industry in the world. The clothing and textile industry is huge. Environmental impacts occur at every stage of the life cycle of a product. The garment industry has contributed to the global warming from the stage of growing of the fibres, yarn fabrication, fabric manufacture, wet processing and manufacturing of the garment, its distribution and transportation to stores and customers, its use by the consumers and finally the disposal of the product.

STAGE I: Raw Materials (Fibers)

Contributors to carbon footprint

Cotton cultivation requires large amount of pesticides, fertilisers and water. Although the cotton crop is grown in less than 3% of the world’s farmed land, it consumes approximately 25% of the pesticides.

Green Solution

• Organic cotton is the most easily available “green” fabric, even though organic cotton accounts for only 0.03 percent of all the cotton produced. It is grown following the strict principles of organic agriculture where synthetic chemical pesticides, fertilizers and Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) are not used. Organic fertilizers (such as manure) and plant-based pest management products (such as neem or garlic extract) are used.

Organic cotton plant

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• Substitute cotton for other natural materials.Hemp, wool, organic cotton, soy silk, bamboo fabrics, jute, corn fiber etc are considered as eco-friendly fabrics due to their availability from nature with out any harmful effects of chemical or toxics. Moreover, as compared to other synthetic fibers they are available in a cheaper rate. Hemp is four times stronger than cotton, twice as resistant to abrasion, and more resistant to mildew, soiling, shrinkage and fading in the sun. In addition, hemp plants need little irrigation and significantly less pesticide or other chemicals. ‘Bio-fibres’, which include bamboo, soy, algae, maize, agricultural waste, can also be used. • Synthetic fabrics, such as polyesters, are easy care and more durable alternative to natural fabrics. Although they are more energy intensive in production, one of the core advantages of these fibres is that they need to be washed at lower temperatures thus saving a lot of energy throughout their life cycle. But limitation with polyester fabrics is that they are generally made from non-renewable by-products of the oil industry which take a long time to degrade and are therefore difficult to dispose off. • Cellulose based fibres like viscose can be used. There are now developments of new man- made fibres of natural origin like Tencel® (Lyocell) made from wood and Ingeo® (poly lactic acid) obtained from corn.

Stage II: Yarn fabrication and Fabric Manufacture

Contributor to carbon footprint

There are many stages required to process cotton from fibres to fabrics. The fibres are cleaned, carded (combed), spun into yarn, coated with starches or chemicals, woven or knitted into fabric.

In the sizing function, starch is used in sticky paste form, and is applied to the yarn to enhance its strength and abrasion resistance. The starch paste consists of preservatives in order to protect it from the attack of microorganisms. Oil stains get formed on the fabric surface, while it is being woven due to parts of the machine which are being lubricated

Processes involved Contributors to carbon footprint

Fiber preparation Fiber waste and packaging waste, electricity (machinery)

Yarn spinning Packaging wastes, sized yarn, fiber waste, cleaning and processing waste, electricity (machinery)

Slashing/sizing Fiber lint, yarn waste, packaging waste, unused starch-based sizes, water with high level of BOD and COD , electricity (machinery)

Weaving Packaging waste, yarn and fabric scraps, used oil, electricity (machinery)

Knitting Packaging waste, yarn and fabric scraps, electricity (machinery)

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Green solutions

• Some preservatives like pentachlorophenol, that are obtained from phenolic or chlorinated compound, possess a toxic effect on human skin. Hence, such preservatives should be avoided. Utilizing a synthetic starch decreases the use of such preservations, thereby decreasing the health hazards which likely to occur because of phenolic or chlorinated preservative. • Proper measures should be taken during the weaving operations, so that oil stains do not get formed. Before textile chemical processing, these oil stains are removed by applying stain remover. Hence, measures can be taken to lessen oil stains in the cloth and probably the application of carbon tetra chloride based products should be avoided in stain removal and other textile products.

Stage III: Textile Processing

Textile processing industry is requires not only large volume of water for running various operations at the unit but also a variety of chemicals for various processes such as desizing, scouring, mercerization, dyeing, printing and finishing. Thus each and every stage requires large amounts of inputs in terms of water, chemical & energy and generate wastes at each stage. The other feature of this industry, which is a backbone of fashion garments is large variation in demand of type, pattern and color combination of fabric resulting into significant fluctuation in waste generation volume and load. Textile processing generates many waste streams, including liquid, gaseous and solid wastes, some of which may be hazardous.

Effluent discharge

Of all the steps involved in textiles processing, wet processing creates the highest volume of wastewater. The nature of the waste generated depends on the type of textile facility, the processes and technologies being operated, and the types of fibers and chemicals used. Textile finishing represents the most variable area in the production process. A wide and ever growing range of finishes are now available that either improve the properties, handle or texture of the fabric.

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Contributors to carbon footprint

Use of chemicals like potassium dichromate, sodium hypochlorite or peroxide and sodium hypochlorite in the preparation process of desizing, scouring and bleaching with their related wash-off stages, produces heavy Biological Oxygen Demands (BOD) in the effluents. Chlorine used in bleaching creates halogenated organic substances, of which some are suspected to be carcinogenic, e.g., chloroform, thus is not preffered. Use of banned amines and toxic dyes. Banned amines are the chemicals which are released from some of the azo dyes on reductive cleavage. These are suspected to be carcinogenic and are being banned. Apart from Germany, Netherlands has also banned the presence of these amines and this is applicable to clothing, bed linen and footwear. List of banned amines is as follows:

1. 4-Aminodiphenyl /xenylamine/Biphenyl-4-ylamine 2. 2-Amino-1-nitrotoluene 3. Benzidine 4. 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 5. 2-Naphthylamine 6. O-Aminoazotoluene 7. p-Chloraniline 8. 2, 4’-Diaminoanisole /4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine 9. 4, 4’-Diaminodiphenylmethane /4,4-methylenedianiline 10. 3, 3’-Dichlorobenzidine /3,3’dichlorobiphenyl-4,4’-ylenediamine 11. 3, 3’-Dimethoxy-benzidine /o-dianisidine 12. 3, 3’-Dimethylbenzidine /4,4’-bi-o-Toluidine 13. 3, 3’-Dimethyl-4, 4’-diaminodiphenylmethane 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine 14. p-cresidin (2-Methoxy 5-methylaniline) 15. 4, 4’-Methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) 16. 4, 4’-Oxydianiline 17. 4, 4’-Thiodianiline 18. 0-Toluidine /2-aminotoluene 19. 2, 4-Toluyendiamine /4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine 20. 2, 4, 5-Trimethylaniline 21. p-Amino-azobenzene 22. 2-Methoxyaniline / o-anisidine

Carriers and solvents may be emitted during dyeing operations (depending on the types of dyeing processes used). Carriers used in batch dyeing of disperse dyes may lead to volatilization of aqueous chemical emulsions during heat setting, drying, or curing stages, thus creating harmful volatile organic compounds. Acetic acid and formaldehyde are two major emissions of concern in textiles Textile mills usually generate nitrogen and sulphur oxides from boilers Other significant sources of air emissions in textile operations include resin finishing and drying operations, printing, dyeing, fabric preparation, and wastewater treatment plants. Hydrocarbons are emitted from drying ovens and from mineral oils in high-temperature drying/curing. These processes can emit formaldehyde, acids, softeners, and other volatile compounds. Residues from fiber preparation sometimes emit pollutants during heat setting processes.

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Wool industry uses chlorine based compounds for anti-shrinking dealing, and such practice also generates toxic effluent. For removing rust stains in bleaching, before bleaching the cloth is treated with oxalic acid. The oxalic acid is lethal to aquatic organisms and it increases COD and BOD to a significant level. . Textile processes Contributors to carbon footprint Sizing Pentachlorophenol as anti mildew agent Desizing VOCs from glycol ethers Scouring • Emulsifying agents like nonyl phenyl ethoxylates • Trichlorobenzene,1,2 dichloroethane, chloroform as scouring assistants Bleaching Hypochlorite (chlorine bleaching) produces pollutants like chlorine, chlorine dioxide Dyeing and printing • Azo dyes containing aromatic amine • Formaldehyde dye fixing agent for reactive dyeing for viscose/blended fabrics • Dyes containing heavy metals such as arsenic, lead, cadmium, mercury, nickel, copper, chromium, cobalt and zinc • Formaldehyde as mordant • Oxygen carriers like vanadium chloride, copper chloride • Formaldehyde fixer/binder for pigment printing of viscose and blends Finishing • Formaldehyde as cross- linker • Reactive softener Speciality finishing (a)Flame retardant Tri (2,3 dibromopropyl1phosphate), tri(aziridinyl) phosphinoxide, triphenyl polychlorinated biphenyl etc. , chlorinated paraffin (b)Water repellant finish Zirconium type pyridinium compounds, melamine-amide compounds, melamine hydrophobic condensates (c)Rot proofing Metal fluorides, DDT, heavy metal containing Other anti-bacteriocidal materials (d) Easy care finish Cross-linking agents are the main source of formaldehyde that is released

Green solutions

• Dyes made from natural pigments and soymilk used as a binding agent and sizing agent makes the whole dyeing process gentler on the environment. • Optional stabilizers such as Aminio Tri Methylene Phosphoric Acid (ATMP), Hydroxy Ethy!idine Disphosphonic Acid (HEDA), Diethylene Triaminc Penta Methylene Phosphoric Acid (DTPMP) and Ethylene Diamine Tetra Methylene Phosphoric Acid (EDTMP) are also being suggested as

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peroxide stabilizers, which can be used during the peroxide bleaching operation for ensuring identical and monitored bleaching. • Solar power can be used to pre-heat the water used in the dyeing and finishing processes • Dyes that form carcinogenic amines on reduction in dyeing and thus increase BOD/COD need to be avoided for use in dyeing. • High fastness direct dyes should be chosen in such a way that applying copper or chromium salts in their dyeing is avoided. • Cationic dye fixing agents utilized for direct dyes and reactive dyes should have low formaldehyde content and low BOD. • During reactive dyes the use of urea needs to be lessened. Agents such as hydrol or hydroxyl acetone should be used instead of extremely contaminated sodium sulphide while dyeing with sulphur dyes. • In polyester dyeing, the carriers and leveling agents utilized should not be supported with chlorinated or phenolic composites as they are highly toxic and more or less carcinogenic. The leveling agents that contain chlorobenzene as well as per chloroethylene or trichloroethylene are carcinogenic compounds, and therefore they should be avoided. • Dyeing processes need huge amount of salt to achieve good exhaustion of dye-bath. This leads to an increase in the dissolved salts in effluent water. Therefore, new dyes which would need less salt dilution for achieving dye fixation should be used. • An integrated chemical pretreatment, scouring, desizing, bleaching all in one should be preferred which will reduce the consumption of water and energy and minimize pollution. • Fabrics that need to be colored in deep shades should not be bleached extensively, thus reducing the consumption of bleach and consequently reducing the pollution load. • In the case of dyeing and printing colors chosen should be non-toxic and not based on forbidden amines. • Chemical formaldehyde based cross-linking agents applied to cellulosic textiles for crease resistance and dimensional stability are the most toxic chemicals. Free formaldehyde may be discharged from resin-finished fabrics either because of un-responded formaldehyde in the product in cross-linking or while storage of the finished fabrics. Many countries set various tolerance limits for free formaldehyde according to the end use of the treated fabrics or garments. Presence of formaldehyde in the atmosphere and in waste-water is regarded as highly toxic and to overcome this trouble, formaldehyde scavengers (chemicals which neutralise toxic effects of formaldehyde) are to be used.

Stage IV: Garment Manufacturing

Contributors to carbon footprint Many processes are involved in manufacturing of a agrment and conribution to carbon footprint ocurrs at each and every stage.

Administrative department and Design and line development department are responsible for looking into the finance and administration , involved in working with the textile and trims, sourcing, scheduling production, controlling product flow and presentation of line and making of prototypes. It consumes electricity in running of machines like electric cutters, sewing machines and generated garbage like fabric scarps, pattern papers, stationery items etc.

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Production department undertook spreading, cutting and sewing responsibility. Power operated machines like cutters, sewing machines, fusing machines and steam iron sets are used for the purpose. This department generates large amount of waste in form of cardboard boxes, labels, tapes, thread cones, fusing rolls, fabric scraps and stickers.

Cutting Department Stitching Department

Finishing Department

Finishing department contributes to carbon footprints as a garment goes through many operations like washing, pressing, stain removal, inspection, folding and packaging. All these operations involve use of machinery like perk machine, washing machine, hydro, spinning machine, steam iron sets, stain guns etc. Boilers which are used to generate steam, used in pressing, consume large amounts of diesel fuel. Water consumption also adds to carbon footprints along with chemicals like Tide detergent, liquid soap, acetone, amyl, rangkat etc which are used for washing and stain removal. Garbage that is generated in form of packaging material also contributes to carbon footprints. Miscellaneous sections include computerized embroidery section, effluent treatment plant, kitchen, canteen, mess, general maintenance and house keeping, which contribute to carbon footprints.

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Departments involved Contributors to carbon footprint

Administrative Department Stationery waste, packaging waste, electricity (machinery like Photostat machine, fax machine)

Design and line Packaging wastes, paper pattern’s waste , fabric waste, electricity development department (machinery)

Production Department Yarn waste, packaging waste like cardboard boxes, labels, tapes, thread cones, fusing rolls, fabric scraps, polythene bags and stickers, electricity (machinery)

Finishing Department Packaging waste, chemicals contributing to increased BOD and COD levels in waste water, electricity (machinery), fuel

Miscellaneous Packaging waste, yarn and fabric scraps, electricity (machinery), Departments fuel

Green solutions

• Referring to forecasts, from agencies that are at local and thus subscription to forecast can be obtained at lesser costs. • Various elements that are used in design i.e. colour, texture, fasteners, fabrics etc; the components of these should be maintained as a ready data bank. • Appointing representatives in various countries to supervise and sort out problems will also lead to reduction in contribution to carbon footprints • Biodegradable trims should be preferred against synthetic trims. For example, natural buttons made up of pearl, wood, shell, leather, porcelain and bone. Plastic and metal buttons, rivets and snaps of brass, stainless steel, if possible, should be avoided. • Avoid use of fusible interfacings which incorporate solvent treated adhesives as solvents like formaldehyde have been classified as unsafe for the environment as per the standard given by Oeko-Tex 100. • Use of metals such as chrome, cadmium, lead, nickel and other heavy metal residues, for the making of fasteners like zippers and buttons, are considered unfriendly to the environment, since these metals release residues that are suspected to be harmful to the human skin. • Transfer printing on t-shirts which is commonly practiced to obtain photographic replication of designs is done by using the sublistatic technique which requires the ink formulation to be transferred to the substrate in vapor form. For such a technique, solvent based dye formulations are used which may not be safe for the environment. • Use of large baler bags for storage or supplies especially at fabric store where the fabric is stored in individual polythene bags. • CAD and CAM systems can be used to gain optimum fabric utilization. • Following efficient stitching methods in terms of correct needle size, stitch length, machine type and threads will further lead to reduction in wastage.

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• Installation of LEDs (9W) at the needle points of sewing machines will help to reduce the overall requirement of tubelights in the stitching section. • Use of motorized sewing machines with ‘Energy star mark’ will ensure lower consumption of electricity. • Regular maintenance, lubrication and upkeep of the machine, using white oil, mobil oil will result in improvement of the efficiency of the machine being used in production. • Using the clothes dryer for half drying clothes, to be completely dried on clothes line in the open or in the shade, will make the process more energy efficient . • Recycling of small pieces of waste fabrics into shoddy items and/or wipe clothes in the unit. These types of fabric pieces can also be utilized for developing new products such as quilts, in appliqués, braids and other details on garments. A lot of cellulosic waste fabric is being recycled for making hand made paper. Cotton knitwear waste has also been utilized for producing low cost sanitary napkins.

Recycling fabric scraps generated by production department

• ‘Energy star mark’ washing machines with front loading will lead to lower consumption of electricity. • Eco friendly detergents having low aquatic toxicity are phosphate free or with a phosphate content of less than 5% should be used. Such detergents are considered to biodegrade without producing metabolites toxic to aquatic life. • Use of detergents at appropriate concentration (0.5-1%) at 60°C will provide optimal usage of detergents for good quality washing. • Water from washing department can be reused for housekeeping and gardening. • Apparel can be packaged in biodegradable PVC-free packaging, and in 100% recycled cardboard boxes • Use of eco friendly lubricants and stain removers which are free from chlorinated solvents. • Grouping of several garments in large baler bags while packaging, will lead to minimization in waste. • Prefer using eco friendly hang tags that can be hung to the garment by thread rather than using plastic staple or string.

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Stage V: Transportation and Distribution

Contributors to carbon footprint Some forms of transportation have more emissions than the others. For example, transporting 1 tonne of goods over a distance of 100 km emits 0.7 kg of C02 by ship, or 158.0 kg by air.

Green solutions

• Use the bus or a train rather than car for transporting goods and for travelling purpose • Try not to use domestic flights, use a train or a bus. • Consider cleaner fuels like ethanol. E10 (the most available commercial mixture), reduces CO2 emissions by about 10%. • If you need to go somewhere nearby, walk, take the train and bus, or cycle instead of driving. • Make sure your tires are properly inflated. If all 4 tires are under-inflated by only 2psi fuel efficiency will drop by 4 percent. • Cut back on the number of flights. Make conference calls to avoid the trip, or try taking the train when you can. Air transportation has a larger carbon footprint than driving. • To reduce the impact of your business travel, remote meetings technologies can be used such as audio teleconferencing, web Conferencing or video conferencing instead of meeting in person. And, when possible, combine business trips to minimize the number of flights taken.

Stage VI: Use and Disposal

Contributors to carbon footprint

Over the last two decades clothing has become increasingly affordable for everyone. Retailers and brands have capitalized on this affordability by moving away from summer and winter collection to fresh collections throughout the year. The success of retailers and brands currently demands an unsustainable increase in volumes of clothing and apparel. Increasing amounts of clothing is ending up in landfill when it could be recycled or reused.

Green solutions

• Recycle as much as possible. For example, old fabrics can be used to make wipes or can be used by shoddy items industry to make quilts, appliqué work. • Cellulosic waste fabric can be recycled for making hand made paper.

Sustainability is increasingly viewed as a desired goal of development and environmental management. Today, the term ‘sustainability’ is used not only to describe a product made from a reusable or recycled material, companies are also implementing sustainable business practices which will help in the transformation of currently energy intensive manufacturing industry to cleaner and less carbon intensive technology.

The author is Assistant Professor, Institute of Home Economics, Delhi University and has prepared this report under the guidance of Dr. Simmi Bhagat, Associate Professor, Dept. of

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Fabric and Apparel Science, Lady Irwin College, Delhi & Prof. M.L. Gulrajani, Professor, Dept of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi.

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