Explore Hudson Valley APRIL - JUNE 2017 • ULSTER PUBLISHING • WWW.HUDSONVALLEYONE.COM Where to Guide

A river has two sides

A season full of destinations, events, traditions, histories and musings 2 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Our river has two sides, and it’s very wide

By Paul Smart

tanding by the banks of the Hudson near the site of an old ice house (which could be most Sanywhere on either shoreline), my kid’s jumping rock to rock with the dog. A duck of some sort skirts the still water headed north (must be that mo- ment between the incoming and outgo- ing tides). I can see houses, a small city in the distance. There’s a hint of distant hills, and even more distant mountains. A train scurries north not a half hour since the last one did the same. Things must have gotten blocked up down in the city, I think. Behind me is a small hillside, fields to the north and forest to the south. I’m facing east, of course, towards Columbia and Dutchess counties, and Connecticut and Massachusetts, along with the rest of New England. Do I feel the Catskill Mountains, Pennsylvania and Ohio and the rest of the Midwest and West behind me? Not really, only if I start to put my mind to it. A river has two sides. This idea came up at a recent meeting. The concept envel- oped much of our region’s history, as well as that of our modern politics. Son Milo tries skipping rocks. After a while he settles for plunking the biggest he can the farthest he can. The dog is sniffing for whatever inhabits both sides of the water flowing before us. I think back to the time I watched a friend join a huge crowd down in Newburgh, all swimming east towards Beacon for some benefit. I think of smaller rivers I’ve swum across — the Thames (far upstream from London), the Connecticut (New Hamp- shire to Vermont), and the James near my boyhood home in Virginia — as well as those I’ve dreamed of at least trying to swim in, from the Seine and the Tiber to PHOTO COURTESY OF NY PARKS DEPARTMENT the mighty Mississippi. The view from Clermont in Columbia County, which looks west beyond Some things start to make sense when the Hudson River to the lands the Livingston family owned in the Catskills, you look at a wide river. Without the captures much of what still draws people to the Hudson Valley. Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 3 bridge I see from here, it would be almost left? Or thought deeply about how the brand-new urban scenes. impossible for me to get from here to there Potomac must have seemed during the Remember the first crack of the bat on without serious help. Which means I could Civil War? the opening day of the fishing season? go a lifetime without knowing what I can I’ve heard people from the west of the Looking forward to running local trails see from here. I resolve to feel more kindly Hudson, where the valley yields to the with hundreds of others? ‘Tis that season. disposed to the toll-swallowing New York Catskills or Shawangunks and eventually Bittersweet to some, yes, but also a mo- State Bridge Authority. the Appalachians, talk about the eastern ment to engage. Remember Saul Steinberg’s picture of shore as “the moneyed side.” On the east ANTIQUE CENTER ~ AUCTION GALLERY the world as seen from Manhattan? Ever side, the gentler landscape rises through heard Parisians battle over the merits of the Berkshires into a land of old shires and RHINEBECK the right bank versus the allures of the endless stone walls still being maintained. ANTIQUE Suffice it to say that we have two sides to EMPORIUM this river. They’re quite different to us who Table of contents Between Rhinebeck & Hyde Park live here, but as a French person I once 5229 Albany Post Rd escorted around observed, they’re all quite Staatsburg,NY 12580 Introduction the same to someone from elsewhere. ~ OPEN DAILY 10-5 ~ Our river has two sides, and it s very Within these pages, we take a look at 845-876-8168 wide 2 what some from each side have seen and by Paul Smart www.rhinebeckantiqueemporium.com actually come to appreciate after cross- — 10% OFF WITH AD — Hanging out on the Hudson ing our various bridges. We’ll investigate On or by the river is the place to be what our town and city folk think is cool Village Antique Center by Lynn Woods 4out in the rural stretches, along with our country mouse’s view of some interesting at Hyde Park East of Eden A beginners’ guide to the east side of Antiques the Hudson River by Sparrow 10 The east’s view The draw of the left bank of the Hudson Route 9, between Roosevelt and Vanderbilt Mansions River by Jennifer Brizzi 14 (845) 229-6600 Village life Sometimes you need more than the countryside can offer by Lissa Harris 16 Family outings Thrift Shop Downstairs: Fun things for kids and grownups by Roxanne Ferber 20 HIDDEN TREASURES The “Premier Destination for Antiques & Unique Collectibles” Spring sports (845) 229-8200 Getting outdoor exercise 35 N. Front St., Kingston, NY 4192 Albany Post Road by Chris Rowley 28 331-5439 www.hydeparkantiques.net Tuneful colonization There’s a lot of music around this spring by John Burdick 32 To Buy... To Sell Cerebral springtime or just for the fun of it Area campuses offer lots to do Be a part of this Hudson Valley Tradition by Paul Smart 36 Art, grit and history George W. Cole, CAI & Robin B. Mizerak Auctioneer & Appraisers Newburgh, a quirky city on the upswing by Violet Snow 40 Red Hook Business Park, 7578 North Broadway River dharma Just north of the light on Route 9 (next to IGA) For some looking west from Peekskill, 845-758-9114 the Hudson was enough www.georgecoleauctions.com by Rich Corozine 46 4 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Hanging out on the Hudson On or by the river is the place to be

By Lynn Woods

early every day, I walk my dog at Kingston Point. I park next to an abandoned brick N industrial building and walk along the tracks past a fenced-in area of the former Central Hudson gas field where earth-moving equipment and workers in hardhats are doing some kind of cleanup. The tracks, built on a spur of land in the 19th century to con- vey disembarking passengers by train from the enormous steamships that once docked there to resort hotels in the Catskills, pass through a swampy former lagoon now full of chortling red-winged blackbirds. There’s a magnificent south- ward view of the Hudson River. Every day, the river is different. On a WIKICOMMONS sunny morning, its broad pale-grey sur- Looking up the Hudson River from the Bear Mountain Bridge just south face dazzles with a million points of light. of West Point, one gets a sense of the river’s great width, which has On a windless, overcast day, it’s a silver helped shape the great differences between its two sides. We’ve found innovative ways to bridge our differences. Antiques Hoffman’s Barn ANTIQUE MARKET

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AMERICANA • COUNTRY • PRIMITIVE VENDORS SPACE PERIOD JEWELRY • ACCESSORIES AVAILABLE DECORATIVE FURNITURE • BOOKS Hours: Fri. & Sat: 9 - 5:30, Sun. 10 - 5 or call for an appointment Located behind historic Beekman Arms Hotel www.hoffmansbarn.com in the center of Rhinebeck, New York email: [email protected] 845-876-3477 Buy & Sell 19 Old Farm Road Rte. 28 • 3 miles west of Phoenicia (845) 758-5668 Red Hook, NY 12571 688-2161 OPEN EVERY DAY 11 AM - 5 PM Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 5 mirror, vanishing into mist, otherworldly. who daringly raced over the waves on a a straight line, marking the location of On a sunny, breezy afternoon, the river is terrifically windy March afternoon. Earth- the old pier. deep blue, whipped into peaks laced with bound, I could only experience the wild Such aimless rambling is a luxury in white froth, a flock of lesser scaup docks domain of water and wind vicariously. To today’s world, where so much coastal real riding the waves. In a gale, the surface is be sure, sailing on the river is a thrill (more estate is private, expensive, or spoiled by purple-brown, broken up like clods in a about how you can do that in a minute). a roaring highway. While the opposite freshly plowed field. The more time I’ve spent ambling along shore of the Hudson is bordered by Often an eagle soars overhead, flapping the shore, the more I’m happy to do noth- the Amtrak tracks — watching the tiny its powerful, slab-like wings before land- ing at all except walk, observe, and exult distant silver caterpillar, its horn dispro- ing on a rock along a jetty. Soon the herons in the wide-open space of the river. Every portionately loud, chug into view is yet will return to fish in the shallows by the day offers up its treasure, depending on another pleasure of my walks — access to jetty. The stilt-legged birds, slender as the season. A snapping turtle digging a the river is unimpeded in most of Ulster fashion models, stand motionless before nest in the gravel and soft loam along County. Thanks to the numerous parks taking a few steps to stab a fish with their the tracks in June, baby squirrels peering and preserves, many of them established long beaks. Soon the swallows will also be out of the gnarled holes of the battered, and operated by Scenic Hudson, much of arriving, swooping low over the water like ancient black willow in November, a the shore, which a century years ago was acrobats, snatching insects out of the air. pale-orange crab shell upended among treeless and lined with brick and cement Daily, the shoreline shifts depending the black rocks at low tide in August, the works, can be accessed by the public for on whether the tide is high or low. The blackened nubs, spaced regularly along free. In May the bird-watching is prime; water on the Kingston side of the tracks is backed by a rocky woods, perhaps the STORMVILLE AIRPORT FLEA MARKET one feature not tampered with by humans. FLEA MARKET ULTIMATE YARD Beneath the clear water, brimming so high Over 600 Exhibitors April 29 & 30 SALE the water edges onto the grass, soaking May 27 & 28 • July 1 & 2 Exhibitor Space Available 300 Families • Sat. Only your shoes, the dark bones of a sunken Sept. 2 & 3 • Oct 7 & 8 Free Admission & Parking June 17 • Sept. 16 boat are visible. Nov. 4 & 5 9 am - 3 pm Rain or Shine 8 am - 4 pm Rain or Shine No Pets 845-226-1660 I used to look with envy out on the tiny white sails that scooted across the river FOOD TRUCK & CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL – JUNE 10TH • 11AM–6PM on a warm day in June or the windsurfers 428 Rt. 216, Stormville, NY • www.stormvilleairportfleamarket.com • 845-221-6561 BEFORE YOU Round Lake Antiques Festival Sat, June 24, 2017 - 8am-6pm SELL YOUR Sun, June 25, 2017 - 9am-5pm on the Village Greens & Parks of Round Lake, NY RAIN OR SHINE (½ mile east of the Adirondack Northway, exit 11) ANTIQUES, FREE ADMISSION The area’s longest running, For Dealer Info or Early Buyer Info: old-fashioned Antique Show FAIRGROUND SHOWS NY Art or Jewelry, call featuring over 150 dealers selling PO Box 528, Delmar, NY 12054 antiques, toys, furniture, glassware, Robert Meringolo, architectural, jewelry, coins, guns, www.fairgroundshows.com former Sotheby’s and much more. [email protected] • 518-331-5004 Associate and $4 admission, Founder of the (65+ $3, Appraisers Road Antique Fair under-16 - FREE) Show for a Free and Flea Market In-Home Appraisal! May 6th & 7th, 2017 $90 - Dealer Spaces Still Buying Options August 5th & 6th, 2017 Available: at the Washington County Fairgrounds, FAIRGROUND Available! Rt. 29, Greenwich, NY (12 mi. East of Saratoga Springs) SHOWS NY PO Box 528, Call (518) 937-4976 Old-fashioned Antique Show Delmar, NY 12054 featuring 200+ dealers, free parking, www.fairgroundshows.com or (518) 966-5602. great food, and real bathrooms. [email protected] www.robertmeringolo.com ($10 - Early Buyers - Fridays before show) Ph. 518-331-5004 6 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley a tour by one of the resident naturalists, vernal pools which in early spring resonate es. Before you lies a panorama of the which are offered through the John Bur- with the deafening quacks of wood frogs. river and Catskill Mountains. The es- roughs Natural History Society (jbnhs. And finally there’s Black Creek Preserve, in tates of Clermont, Montgomery Place org) enables you to identify the avian which a small wooden suspension bridge (now owned by Bard College) and Wil- visitors and breeders in the area. (A walk crosses one of the few Hudson River derstein also offer stunningly beautiful at the Esopus Creek Conservancy, in Sau- tributaries that was never interrupted by views from high bluffs framed by an- gerties, to spot migrating warblers and industrialization: a section of the forest cient trees. other songbirds is scheduled on April 30.) has been fenced in as an experiment in Just south of Hudson, Frederic Church’s Traveling south from Saugerties, there’s forest recovery to prevent forage by deer). Persian-style castle at Olana looks straight Falling Water Preserve, with the trail down the river from a steep wooded hill. passes a waterfall as it snakes down the or the best views in a romantic The grounds include Church’s farm, which wooded slope to the rock-lined shore. Flandscape setting, head across the is being restored; the tour of the house, There’s Ulster Landing, which has a simi- river. At Poets Walk, a Scenic Hudson which is still furnished with the landscape lar terrain, plus recreational fields down preserve on River Road just south of painter’s possessions, is comprehensive by the river. There’s Esopus Meadows, Bard College, you walk over a series of and fascinating. four miles south of Kingston, where three undulating fields, which climax in an In Hyde Park, just north of Poughkeep- intersecting trails pass a creek and several Alpine pavilion crafted of rustic branch- sie, the Vanderbilt Mansion and the FDR Home, Presidential Library and Museum, Real Estate in similarly spectacular riverside settings, provide insights into the Gilded Age and the Hudson Valley native who successfully Ulster | Dutchess | Columbia | Greene shepherded the country through the Great JoyceBeymer.com Depression and World War II,. My favorite estate river walk is the Register at my site and I will send you all the new grounds of the Mills Mansion at Norrie listings that meet your needs. The search is free. Point State Park. The 1890s Beaux-Arts Easy enough? mansion is overly large and institutional- looking, but the winding road to the river, shaded by an allee of enormous trees, takes you back to another century. You can hike on the wooded paths for miles, catching the breezes along an unspoiled stretch 914.388.9808 of river. It feels remote from civilization, [email protected] and indeed the state leases out ten rustic cabins tucked into the woods and with a view, along with 44 camping sites on the southern end of the park (to book, visit reserveamerica.com). Walkway Over the Hudson, an expanse of pavement laid over a former railroad bridge in Poughkeepsie, stretches for more than a mile over the river, enabling you to view the Hudson from 200 feet in the air. The bridge, ideal for bicyclists and roller-bladers, is linked to rail-trails

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hudsonvalleyone.com Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 7 in Dutchess and Ulster counties.

he boat tours start up in May. The T300-passenger Rip Van Winkle de- parts the dock in Kingston for two hour- long sightseeing cruises (hudsonriver- cruises.com; evening dinner cruises are also available). Similar tours are availa- ble in Hudson (hudsoncruises.com; that company also offers mystery murder, sunset, Athens Lighthouse tours, and in Newburgh (prideof the hudson.com). 21A Colonial Drive, New Paltz That boat cruises the most scenic stretch of the river, including Storm King and 1 AND 2 BEDROOM APARTMENTS Cold Spring. From Beacon, you can hop aboard the Estuary Steward for a walk- ing tour of Bannerman’s Castle, the ~ No Security Deposit Option ~ mysterious ruin that formerly served as a storage for armaments (bannerman- castle.org). 3 - 12 Month Leasing Terms The Clearwater, the famous replica of a Hudson River sloop that was commis- Pets Welcome! sioned by Pete Seeger in the 1960s, has ever since has been a powerful symbol of environmental activism. It offers tours to Pool & Laundry on Site the public from various ports as it makes its way up and down the river. The expe- Please Call: 845-255-6171 rience of cruising the river on the creaky wooden sloop with just the sound of the

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EBRAT villagegreenrealty.com L IN E 9'!8$,,31'9d$311<2-;@683)£'9d1!80';2'>9d!&=-$' G C 25 Goshen 845-294-8857 Kingston 845-331-5357 New Paltz 845-255-0615 Stone Ridge 845-687-4355 Windham 518-734-4200 Woodstock 845-679-2255 YEARS r$$38&-2+;3 <&932!££'@!;90-££'+-32W}‰‡ˆ¤3£&>'££!20'8'!£ 9;!;'W££-+,;9'9'8='&W3£&>'££!20'8'!£ 9;!;'(<££@9<6638;9;,'68-2$-6£'93(;,' !-8 3<9-2+$;W !$,ă$' Is Independently Owned And Operated. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker Logo are registered service marks owned by Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. 8 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley wind in your ears is not to be missed. are limited to six and the boat departs tours of the Hudson (forsythnaturecenter. Passengers help raise the sail as a young out of Kingston, Saugerties, or Rhinecliff org.) I Paddle New York in Saugerties crew member shouts out commands, and (blackswansailing.com). Captain Dan offers kayak tours and rents out kayak mid-sail sea chanties are sung to the ac- Feldman also charters a 28-foot trimaran and paddleboards for explorations of companiment of a banjo or guitar. For a to small groups from Kingston and offers the Esopus Creek and Hudson River schedule, visit Clearwater.org. lessons on a racing boat (hudsonsailing. (ipaddlenewyork.com). Kayaking trips After a one-year hiatus, the popular com). Chartered cruises of the Hudson are available in Beacon (mountaintop- Clearwater Festival returns this year on are also available on a 40-foot Beneteau sonline.com), and Cornwall-on-Hudson June 18 at the waterfront park at Croton- (ospreymarine.com) Ophira Sailing (mountainvalleyguides.com. In Athens, on-Hudson. The all-day event will feature (ophirasailing.com), based in Connelly on across the river from Hudson, you can rent singer-songwriters Lucy Kaplansky, Rich- the Rondout Creek across from Kingston. stand-up paddleboards as well as kayaks ard Shindell and Dar Williams, reviving Ophira charters sailboats, too, and offers and beach cruiser bicycles (paddlehead- their folk-pop collaboration Cry CryCry a youth and adult sailing school as well boards.com). after 19 years. Suitcase Junket, a one-man as private lessons. band playing improvised instruments, will Canoes and single or tandem kayaks can hile most Hudson Valley com- also be in the lineup of dozens of bands. be rented on Rondout Creek in Kingston Wmercial waterfronts were torn You can charter your own 36-foot Cata- (takeadayaway.net), and from the Sau- down in urban-renewal projects in the lina sailboat, complete with catered meal, gerties Marina (saugertiesmarina.com). 1960s, the advent of an upscale flea from captain Robert Henderson. Groups The City of Kingston offers guided kayak Where to Guide Camps April - June, 2017 An Ulster Publishing publication ummer camp is the source of fond memories for millions of Americans who Editorial hiked, swam and sang Kumbayah around the campfire with other kids who WRITERS: Jennifer Brizzi, John Burdick, sometimes became lifelong friends. The Hudson Valley has a long history of S Rich Corozine, Roxanne Ferber, summer facilities for kids, from the Jewish camp on Yankeetown Pond attended by Lissa Harris, Chris Rowley, Paul Smart, the Marx brothers to Camp Woodland near Phoenicia, where Pete Seeger initiated Violet Snow, Sparrow, Lynn Woods city kids into the joys of folk music in the 1940s. The mountains still furnish camp experiences for kids each summer, offering a EDITOR: Paul Smart wide range of options. Most communities have free daytime recreation programs COVER PHOTO BY Dion Ogust for the children of residents, providing crafts, swimming and other group activities. LAYOUT BY Joe Morgan More elaborate, reasonably priced day programs are offered by the week, featuring Ulster Publishing such choices as arts and crafts, singing, fishing, swimming, basketball, volleyball, PUBLISHER: Geddy Sveikauskas archery and ropes courses. Sleepaway camps give kids the ultimate country experi- ence, immersing them in the beauty of the mountains, with plenty of sports, games ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Genia Wickwire and entertainment to keep them busy. Some programs also offer horseback riding, DISPLAY ADS: Lynn Coraza, rock climbing, canoeing and primitive skills. Pam Courselle, Pamela Geskie, Younger children might want to start their camp experience with a day program Elizabeth Jackson, Ralph Longendyke, Sue Rogers, and proceed to overnight stays by age twelve. Look for a camp that is congruent Linda Saccoman with your personal philosophy, and make sure to communicate with staff about your PRODUCTION MANAGER: Joe Morgan child’s needs. Whether you’re looking forward to a break from parenting or appre- hensive about letting go of your child for a chunk of the summer, camp is a maturing PRODUCTION: Diane Congello-Brandes, experience for both parents and kids. Josh Gilligan, Rick Holland CLASSIFIED ADS: A MIDSUMMER Amy Murphy, Tobi Watson NIGHT’S DREAM CIRCULATION: Dominic Labate ages 13-17. Where to Guide is one of four THE TEMPEST 2-week camp Explore Hudson Valley supplements ages 7-9. July 30-Aug 13 Ulster Publishing puts out each year. 2-week camp Performances It is distributed in the company’s four July 5-15 11,12,13 weekly newspapers and separately Performances AS YOU LIKE IT at select locations, reaching an 14-15 ages 10-13. estimated readership of over 50,000. 2-week camp Its website is www.hudsonvalleyone.com. July 17-30 For more info on upcoming special sections, including how to place an ad, Performances call 845-334-8200, fax 845-334-8202 July 28,29,30 or email: [email protected]. Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 9 market in Kingston last summer, oper- Hudson’s storied past as a transportation, practically in the middle of the river, and ated by Smorgasbord, which also runs industrial and recreation corridor are on a warm spring day the stone terrace, popular flea markets in Brooklyn and its lighthouses. Among the handful that shaded by a mulberry tree, is the perfect LA, brought back the shoreline shop- survive, at least one has been brought place for a picnic. Cooled by breezes, its ping tradition. Amid the striking ruins back to life as a two-bedroom bed-and- stone base slapped by waves, the light- of the Hutton Brickyards, Smorgasbord breakfast. The Saugerties Lighthouse house terrace offers the novel experience will this year operate one weekend a (saugertieslighthouse.com), a charming of being out on the river while your feet are month through October, offering nu- brick 1869 domicile, restored and under planted firmly on the ground. It’s special, merous food trucks, craft beer, antiques the management of lighthouse keepers and it’s guaranteed to spark a love affair and vintage clothing. Check out Smor- Patrick and Anne Landewe, accommo- with the river. gasbord, located at the end of North dates overnight visitors. (Bookings should Street, on May 20 and 21 and June 17 be made far in advance.) and 18. The lighthouse, which is reached by Perhaps the most magical symbols of the hiking along a lovely wooded trail, sits Camps and Kids Activities

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By Sparrow

ome with me on a guided tour of the eastern edge of the Hud- son River, traveling northward Cfrom the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge: I recommend the drive from Fishkill to Poughkeepsie on Route 9. You’ll see numerous American stores selling drapes and hamburgers, but pay special atten- tion to the storage units. Never have I beheld such extravagant self-storage architecture! Some structures could be pint-sized colonial apartments. Others resemble brave hillside condos. On a telephone pole I spotted a hand- made sign for the Hazy Rhythm Wonder Band. Amused by their name, I searched them out on the Internet. The music on PHOTO BY DION OGUST their website, which appears to be gen- Above, the east bank of the Hudson is where one catches regular trains erated by a single person named Brucey to New York City or points north and west; below, the City of Hudson was Bruce — on child’s xylophone, rustling once home to whalers who regularly dragged their catches upriver. Here percussion, and occasional garage guitar we see the view from Athens in the early 19th century.

— is tentative and modest. The sound might be called “toy rock.” Here are some lyrics to “The Wisdom of Candide:” All of my friends exist in my head; I killed the real ones long ago. Now I sit with myself and as gently as able, I watch my garden grow. Also notable is the Krishna Grocery (2300 South Road), a fine source of moong dal, cashews, mint chutney and mango pickle, plus hot food like pakoras and eggplant curry. It’s refreshing to find the blue-skinned Hindu god nestled among the Dollar Trees and Walmarts. The Hudson Valley Renegades, a Class PUBLIC DOMAIN - NYC PUBLIC LIBRARY COLLECTION A farm team of the Tampa Bay Rays, play Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 11 at Dutchess Stadium in Wappingers Falls of its vaults to present in the Focus Gallery a post-pubescent, militant Little Red Rid- (where I’ve also seen Bob Dylan and Wil- and the Project Gallery, which are tied in ing Hood. A hundred years ago, the talent lie Nelson). A Renegades ticket is much with Vassar classes. The last show I saw at that now goes into superhero comics was cheaper than one at Yankee Stadium. The the Loeb, “The Art of Devastation: Med- lavished on war posters. crowd is happier, and the game is more als and Posters of the Great War,” which Samuel F. B. Morse had a swanky lay- exciting — because minor leaguers make marked the centenary of America’s entry out in Poughkeepsie. Known as “Locust mistakes! And the players are larger. At into World War I, had fiendishly appealing Grove,” his 200-acre heavily landscaped a major-league stadium, they seem the enlistment posters. “Take Up the Sword of estate, with an ice house and a carriage size of dancing fleas; in Wappingers Falls, Justice” (1915) by Bernard Partridge, an house, is like a Hudson Valley Versailles. they’re as tall as your friends. You can English illustrator, shows Justice personi- The Italianate mansion, with white stucco watch the first baseman’s balletic lunges fied as a young woman in a red cape walking exterior, resembles a hospitable Tuscan from a distance of nine feet. Big stadiums on the waters of the English Channel. In monastery. Back in 1851, it was logical for now are dominated by excruciating video one hand she holds a sheathed sword; the a technological pioneer to build a manor screens pouring out relentless digital other is rolled into a fist. Justice resembles on our illustrious river. Nowadays, sadly, hysteria. At Dutchess Stadium, between innings, they hold potato-sack races. Camps and Kids Activities As for Poughkeepsie itself, I am an expert on this city, as my mother-in-law lives there. My primary destination is the Loeb Art Center at Vassar College. Were I their publicist, I’d call it “The Biggest Little Museum in the World.” In a space not much larger than a suburban house is a shrewdly chosen selection of paintings and artifacts stretching from Ancient China to the modern USA. (Oh yes, there’s also a restful sculpture garden.) The museum owns over 19,000 artworks, and is constantly pulling obscure ones out

CITY OF KINGSTON Parks and Recreation Department Announces Registration for the Following Programs has begun MOUNTAIN LAUREL WALDORF SCHOOL • SUMMER PARKS PROGRAM “Wisdom Begins With Wonder” - School Age 6-13 years old • JR. NATURALIST PROGRAM — ENROLLING NOW FOR FALL 2017 — - Kindergarten-8th grade Early Childhood through Eighth Grade • YOUTH SWIM LESSONS - Ages 5-14 years old Parent/Child Classes • NJTL TENNIS LESSONS DISCOVER OUR KINDERGARTEN PROGRAM: - Ages 6-15 years old Young children are filled with joy and enthusiasm. Participating • KINGSTON RECREATION DEPT JOHN COOK MEMORIAL wholeheartedly in everything around them, they learn naturally through BASKETBALL CAMP imitation and imagination. Our kindergarten – loving, warm, and secure – Boys and Girls 7-10 years reflects this view of children. In it, a small child can make a gentle transition old and 11-14 years old from life at home to the coming grade school years. Register online at www.kingstonparksandrec.org or at the SUMMER PROGRAM PARKS & RECREATION DEPARTMENT MAIN OFFICE IN THE ANDY MURPHY (MIDTOWN) Puppet shows, arts and crafts, NEIGHBORHOOD CENTER sculpting, sand play, gardening, 467 Broadway, KiKingstonnggsttono picnics, games, music, water play 845-481-7330-7330 and outdoor summer fun! Payment for the programs/activitiestiiese iss dueue at the ttimeime ofof registration and is on 1st comeme1e 1st1sts sersesservede ved basisbasis 16 S. Chestnut St., New Paltz, NY “Creating Community throughtht roouggh people,pep ople, 845.255.0033 • www.mountainlaurel.org parks & programs.”graamsm .”” 12 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley we wouldn’t expect Elon Musk to relocate ot far from Locust Grove is The employees — of which there are to Poughkeepsie. NSouth Hills Cinema 8, my favorite about three — are always jubilant. This movie theatre on earth. Patronized by is apparently their first job, and there misers, paupers, unsuccessful sculptors seems to be no manager. To discover how and a few teenagers, it shows second- the world will function after an anarchist E pluribus run features for only five dollars. I’ve revolution, visit South Hills Cinema 8. enjoyed every movie I’ve seen there. A And on Tuesday, the movies are only five-dollar pricetag, I find, improves a two bucks! unum film’s cinematography. Even cheaper is the Walkway Across The experience at South Hills can be the Hudson, a former railroad bridge quite intimate. While I watched Shine converted into a state historic park in a Light, Martin Scorsese’s documentary 2009. It’s free. Rising 212 feet above the NP KT about the Rolling Stones, only two other river and extending for 1.28 miles between WT people were in the theatre — and they left Poughkeepsie and Highland, it’s report- after 20 minutes! edly the longest pedestrian bridge in the AW hv1 s Antiques

Hudson Valley One is the one-stop udson Valley furniture embodies the area’s history, from the colonial shop for content from all Ulster Dutch period to the heyday of the Catskills hotels to modern times. Furni- Publishing newspapers, including Hture prices are still fairly low but may be about to climb, so it’s a good time to New Paltz Times, Woodstock buy. Every piece contains a history lesson. Times, Kingston Times, Saugerties At area antique shops you might find a table with the typical “New York leg,” fea- Times and Almanac Weekly. turing a smooth, ovoid shape, with narrow rings and rectangular blocks above and below, characteristic of 17th- and 18th-century Dutch woodwork. Bentwood chairs Visit hudsonvalleyone.com and with Art-Nouveau lines were common in Catskills hotels during early the 1900s. check it out. Iron bedsteads, arts-and-crafts bungalow furniture, metal lawn chairs and period fabrics have a nostalgic kick for baby boomers who visited the resorts in the 1960s, when the old furnishings were still in place. Specialties of the region include products of Woodstock’s Byrdcliffe arts colony, which turned out handcrafted furniture, pottery, textiles, prints, photography and paintings, and established Woodstock’s identity as a haven for free-spirited creative people. Arts and crafts still filter through the region, often ending up at art galleries along with the paintings by Hudson River School artists. Yard sales are abundant on summer weekends. Sharp-eyed shoppers can find fur- niture, china, glassware, farm implements and other treasures cleared out of attics and old barns. Even better, with “mid-century” modernism all the rage now, there’s plenty of deals for older things. What a pleasure to give a bit of history a new home! Camps and Kids Activities

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By Jennifer Brizzi

rom over here — on the east side of the Hudson River — the west side beckons, wild and al- F luring. Yes, there are miles of trails to walk or bike on the west side, cliffs to scale, and sky thrills from sky- diving to sky rides to rappelling moun- tains. There is a park full of giant sculp- tures and plenty of theater, dance, music and art. I was born on the east side, in Millbrook, Dutchess County. When I was a year old we moved to Vermont. Twenty years ago I returned, by chance, and have since made my home in Rhinebeck. I love the diversity and variety of the Queen City just south of PHOTO COURTESY OF THE TOWN OF GERMANTOWN me, and I adore the character and beauty A view of the Catskills escarpment from the east side of the river provides of Hudson and Beacon and Cold Spring. oft-spectacular sunsets as seen from a more bucolic landscapes. So surely the river’s east side is dear to my heart, where I sprung into the world and of the east side, home of Roosevelts and the east side of the river. Yes, there are where I may well spring out of it someday. Vanderbilts. lovely places to hike and plenty of friendly But the west side of the river has an The east and west banks of the Hudson people whom I’ve met in my 20 years here. exotic quality that resonates with me. beg comparison to Manhattan’s East and And surely the west side has its share of Its artsyness and funky character (no West Sides, the former more upscale, the wealthy folk and high-class culture. The zombie crawls on this side, alas) are closer latter more laid back. Or Paris, where the east side has historically been the lair of to what feels real to me, to the milieu in left bank, or rive gauche, has been known wealthy manor lords with huge riverfront which I grew up, raised as part of a social historically as the more artistic section, a mansions. I believe that some of that circle comprised of the art department of haven for artists, musicians, intellectuals, legacy has endured. a small New England college where my teachers and students. The right bank, father taught. The vibe of the west side rive droite, was for the upper crust and or the art-loving, nature-loving, of the river seems more down-to-earth to big business. Ffood-loving me, the west side of the me than the cultivated, refined elegance Yes, there is lots of art and culture on river attracts. There are so many places I want to go. Although Hunter Mountain’s Zipline and their Scenic Skyride (like Lightning Protection! a six-person sofa in the sky, with views of the northern Catskill Mountains, the Berkshires and Vermont’s Green Moun- tains) and Gardiner’s Skydive the Ranch may be beyond my capabilities, as is rappelling the ‘Gunks, there are so many hiking trails to discover on the west side suitable for an amateur like me. Check out Hunter Mountain’s many festivals, and Kaaterskill Clove, where Thomas Cole painted the untamed Catskills 518-789-4603 landscape. www.alrci.com 845-373-8309 Ulster County beckons the outdoor enthusi- ast, from piney drives to hikes from mellow to Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 15 challenging. Don’t miss the Center for Pho- as many other wineries, breweries, distilleries very popular draw. tography at Woodstock or any of the charm- and cideries. The county includes the famous I want to spend more time on the west side ing retro-cultural experiences just strolling black-dirt region, which puts forth hearty and of the Hudson. I want to go to u-pick farms, around the town. This place is a Mecca for delicious produce. One of the most appeal- to visit museums and historic sites and stone culture, from the varied musical off erings at ing parts of Orange is Storm King Sculpture houses. I do not want to zipline at Hunter the lovely Bearsville Theater or plays from Park. As a fan of giant modern sculptures, I Mountain or rappel the ’Gunks or Skydive the Bird-on-a-Cliff Theatre Company, the love Beacon’s Dia on my side of the river, the Ranch, but maybe you are braver than I. Maverick Concerts and much more. but Storm King’s open-air setting is more But I will be happy to stroll around Warwick Close by is Saugerties, probably the elemental somehow. or New Paltz or Hurley or Catskill, to taste number-one place I’d live if I didn’t live Further south is Rockland, just miles from and explore. in Rhinebeck. Not only does it have a cool New York City yet part of the Hudson Val- It’s all so accessible, with right and left small-town vibe that reminds me of where ley. I have yet to explore the county fully, bank connected via several bridges of varying I grew up, but it’s super-cool, boasts some but have spent some time in Haverstraw, a heights. The spectacularly majestic Walkway really friendly people and off ers unique fun and funky town with the ethnic mix of over the Hudson practically pulls you, on foot experiences like the annual Garlic Festival, a NYC neighborhood, a strong arts com- or bike, from one side to the other with its Opus 40 (built all in bluestone) and the 1869 munity, and some excellent eats. There is a spectacular views, as does the exhilaratingly Saugerties Lighthouse, where you can sleep strong community theater presence and lots high Kingston-Rhinecliff bridge I cross every over for $250 a night (fi nd more lighthouses of fi lming going on in the county’s cute small few days. After 20 years I still marvel at how in Kingston and Athens). towns. Bear Mountain State Park off ers lots beautiful the Catskill Mountains are and how Kingston is hip and trending, and as the of outdoor recreational activities and is a lucky I am to live in the Hudson Valley. state’s fi rst capitol historically interesting as well. It draws New Yorkers with its Ulster Home Improvement Performing Arts Center, galleries and music venues, not to mention the foodie paradise, Smorgasburg, at the Hutton Brickyards. Also in Ulster County, New Paltz is pure college town, with lots of character and art, and where I love to go for fl otation and seafood (Mountain Float Spa and Gadaleto’s respectively). Check out the Playback The- We Have a Complete Line of Rental Equipment and Accessories for the Contractor and Home Owner ater, historic Huguenot Street, Water Street Market, the rail-trails and anything at SUNY New Paltz.

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By Lissa Harris ost challeng- Ming of all, I now an is by spend a lot more time “ nature a talking to people. It’s social an- rare to go more than a Mimal,” Ar- block in a small town istotle wrote some 2300 without running into years ago. “Whosoever is someone with whom delighted in solitude is ei- you’re obliged to stop ther a wild beast or a god.” and chat. Some days, Though I am reasonably it’s charming. Other sure Aristotle never visited days, it’d be nice to New Kingston (pop. 161), make it through the the philosopher’s adage is produce aisle without as true on John Tuttle Road running a gauntlet of as it was in the old Lyceum “How’s your mom do- PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTOGRAPH of Athens. There’s some- ing?” over by the let- Margaretville, in Delaware County, is a draw for many in the thing about life outside of central Catskills. Our author found it a hospitable change from tuce mister. civilization that encour- the rigors of a more rural life. The enforced small ages beasthood, or at least talk that comes with the perpetual wearing of pajama pants. life in the sticks, we found that we enjoy small-town life is a conundrum. There One tends to go to seed. Much is made in worldly comforts like regular street plow- are ways to cope with it. For instance, these rural parts of the rough virtues of ing and electricity that stays on. We are you can avoid it the way my wife does: country solitude, but even legendary local now delighted to be village people. by being practically legally blind. Julia hermit John Burroughs wrote that it was The thrill of being able to walk to things was recently dismayed to discover, upon nice to have a friend around now and then. still hasn’t quite worn off, and I like mak- getting a more effective prescription for A few years ago, my wife and I jumped at ing my daily rounds: supermarket, post glasses, that people around here generally the chance to ditch a rented New Kings- office, Pokemon gym. (Team Mystic. wave hello to pedestrians from their cars. ton country farmhouse for a demented Fight me.) It’s nice to be a regular at The “They’ve been waving at me all along,” old Victorian of our own in the middle Cheese Barrel, where everybody knows my she groaned. of Margaretville. Having made a go of favorite sandwich, and at Picnic!, where Social anxieties notwithstanding, I think the lunchtime gossip is as indispensable I’ve found my niche. During the last big as the fresh-baked bagels. Best of all, my snowstorm, our quiet street took on the High Falls Electric kid — no longer the only child in a half- atmosphere of a block party, as neighbors INC. mile radius — now patrols our block with who hadn’t talked to each other in weeks a feral pack of fellow eight- and nine-year- emerged from their houses at once to do olds who clatter by regularly with bicycles battle with three-foot snowdrifts. The ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING and sticks and snowball fights. one guy with the functioning snowblower There are downsides to village life, of (thanks, Ed!) made the rounds to help the LICENSED • INSURED course. When we moved to Margaret- rest of us with our driveways. ville, we traded a barn full of chickens When the weather gets warmer, we’ll and rambling privileges to an adjacent trade perennials and drink wine on each clover meadow for a gently decaying other’s porches. It’s a good life. The rural sidewalk and a picture-window view of countryside is beautiful, but unlike most ROBERT HAMM 24 MOHONK ROAD my neighbor’s impressive collection of of my weekender friends I’m not all that HIGH FALLS, NY 12440 construction ladders. The town firehouse tempted by fifty acres and a pond. 845-687-7550 is a block away, and the noon siren goes off daily with all the old-fashioned charm of a ike everyone who chooses to live small-town tradition and the 100-decibel Lin this untended corner of the uni- wail of an impending zombie apocalypse. verse, I love the Catskills forests and Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 17 hills. I know where to find wild ramps, forgotten bluestone quarries, and half a dozen swimming holes unmarked on any map. But in my free time I’m just as likely to head for more civilized lo- cal playgrounds as I am to take to the woods. A favorite weekend destination is Wood- stock — the town I grew up in, and a place that still holds potent memories. It’s not the same, of course. Woodstock was already undergoing its transformation from bohemian enclave to upscale tourist playground when I was a kid in the 1980s; Home Improvement

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Local adventures By Roxanne Ferber ferent playgrounds. Don’t have a play- Take a hike, literally. There is no ground in your neighborhood? Visit your ou learn to judge the change shortage of hiking trails, bike trails and local elementary school. The equipment of seasons by how many lay- mountains to climb in every county of the there is usually well kept and designed ers of clothing you need to Hudson Valley. There are some really fas- for young kids. Ywear when leaving the house. cinating places waiting to be discovered, Book your next family outing through We’ve been shedding our wintry gear like the ice caves in Rosendale or old your local library. They often have passes for the warmer days and sunny skies. trestle train bridges along the rail-trail. for local museums, saving you the cost of Spring is here. The extended daylight If you pack a picnic lunch and ramble to admission. A look at the events calendar means more time to explore. If you are one of the local lighthouses, just be sure will find you programs ranging from read- new to the Hudson Valley, or are just to view the tide schedules online before ing to pets, to magic shows, to hands-on looking for some fresh ideas on where to making the trip. High tide means you reptile exhibits. During the week you can find fun, here are some family-friendly could be stranded for a few hours. find regular story times, crafts/art camps suggestions. Take your toddler or little one to new and Lego workshops. Don’t stick to just heights of adventure by visiting dif- one library — check out the libraries in Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 21 surrounding towns, too. GUARANTEED Meet a farmer. Springtime means the CREDIT local farmers’ markets set up outside APPROVAL! again. Every market is different, but often you will find amazing food demos, •BAD CREDIT •NO CREDIT CAR OF THE WEEK! samples, kids’ art areas and live music. •BANKRUPTCY It’s all free (unless you want to purchase Trades - Financing - Carfax some eats), and your kids can meet the farmers who grow their food. 37 O’Neil St. Milk the season and visit a dairy farm. Kingston, NY 12401 Many local farms offer tours and work- 845.541.3854 shops on everyday farm operations. If your $7,995 family is vegan or vegetarian, plan a trip shopaffordablecars.com 2012 CHRYSLER 200 TOURING SEDAN 95K AUTO to the Woodstock Farm Sanctuary in High AIR PW PL GREAT BUY! Falls or the Catskill Animal Sanctuary in Saugerties. Take advantage of their free- admission days. Fake it ‘til you make it. If you’re not the outdoorsy type, you can still enjoy a

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ou’ve bought your upstate re- treat, or perhaps you’ve rented Ya cottage, and now you have to make it yours. For the yard, you’ll need plants and gardening tools. For the in- side, a multitude of touches are required that express your individuality and help you feel at home. Where do you find what your house needs? The same goes if you’re just visit- ing, and want to take something really natural back home to your apartment or suburban yard. Many fruit and vegetable stands carry annual and perennial flowers starting in spring, as well as vegetable starts and herb seedlings. For a wider selection, including shrubs and saplings, look for a plant nursery, where you may also be able to get advice on gardening from the Ann Demeulemeester Maison Margiela staff. They can recommend a professional Comme des Garçons MYKITA landscaper if you want help planning Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Rick Owens your yard to take advantage of its high- lights and overcome any flaws. Comme des Garçons Noir Kei Ninomiya Rick Owens x adidas Hardware stores are a good source of Issey Miyake Bao Bao Vivienne Westwood gardening tools and soil amendments, Issey Miyake Pleats Please Vivienne Westwood MAN and the larger ones also have plants for Kristin Hanson Yohji Yamamoto sale, for both outdoors and indoors. Linda Farrow Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme Stop into the housewares depart- Lost & Found Yohji Yamamoto x adidas ment to equip and dress your home, for everything from teakettles to shower curtains, smoke detectors to light 1 WARREN STREET, HUDSON NY | KASURI.COM | 518-249-4786 fixtures. A few mega-hardware stores provide one-stop shopping that covers both garden and house, including ap- pliances, some furniture, and do-it- yourself advice. 22 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley beautiful view. Take the kids to the Water Street Market in New Paltz. Grab a hot dog or fresh-baked doughnut on your way into the shopping village. Check out local art in the gallery or enjoy sitting next to the water feature. There are complimentary games of chess set up on tabletops. Lend a hand. Volunteering as a family is a great way to connect with your local community. Spending time helping oth- ers feels good and helps kids understand compassion. Ulster will help pair you and your family with community projects in need of help. You can volunteer for some- thing as simple as sorting canned goods at a local food bank or helping serve hot meals on a line at the local soup kitchen. Low-key fun Keep it cozy. Sometimes the intimacy of staying home helps slow us down a little and gives us the feeling of being connected to others. Invite friends over for an easy All for one.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MOHONK PRESERVE The Mohonk Preserve’s annual Rock The Ridge in early May is one of a growing number of events that show off the region’s growing penchant for trail running. Destinations Hudson Valley One is the website for Almanac Weekly, as well as the entire Ulster Publishing family. 4HEREűYOUűCANűůNDűALLűTHEűCONTENTű we used to post to the Almanac “Trimming the Fleet” website (go straight to “Browse by paper” in the top navigation Saturday & Sunday, April 29-30 bar if that’s all you want to see). In Gently used kayaks, canoes & stand-up paddle boards for sale. addition, you can also read news All purchases include a life jacket and paddle. and culture from our other papers Same day, same time rentals available. and special sections, as well as web-only content. ON APRIL 30 TRY US FOR 1 FREE HOUR RIDE! ’ Check it out at: Let s Have a Great Summer! hudsonvalleyone.com

1 BRAGG HOLLOW RD • HALCOTTSVILLE • 607 326.4266 Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 23 pot-luck dinner or pizza. Bring out the board games, bring on the spontaneity. The memories you make will last a lifetime. Go jump in a puddle. Most kids don’t even think twice about jumping into a

lake-sized puddle. Instead of rushing BloodgoodJosephine them past the opportunity, give them permission to jump right in. Let go a little and follow suit. Together you’ll make a big splash. They’ll never forget that time you let them get away with making a mess. STONECROP GARDENS huguenotstreet.org 81 Stonecrop Lane Cold Spring, NY Sight-Seeing Tour Cruises A plant enthusiast’s garden… Murder Mystery & Theme Cruises • Conservatory Dinner & Music Cruises . Business Functions • Enclosed English-style Flower Garden s.. • Woodland Garden h U Private Charters • Mediterranean Garden ay Wit Weddings & Reunions • Alpine Rock Ledge Aw Any Special Event • Systematic Order Beds l • Gardens open for visitation April - October i Ticket Reservations — 888.764.1844 Monday - Saturday & select Sundays a 10am to 5pm ~ Admission $5 S HUDSON Please call or visit our website CRUISES, INC. for the current schedule of events hudsoncruises.com (845) 265-2000 ~ www.stonecrop.org For Special Event Planning — 518.822.1014

... a world of adventure. Places to Stay: Resorts, Lodges and Campgrounds. Things to Do: Shopping, Golfing, Rock Climbing, Fishing, Craft Beverage Tasting, Dining and more. To Book Your Stay in Ulster County, visit UlsterCountyAlive.com today.

Hudson Valley/Catskill Regions 24 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley

GOMEZ Destinations MILL HOUSE Open Wed – Sun, 10 am – 4 pm April 23 through November 12, 2017 BEST OF SPAIN & PORTUGAL Reservations recommended 11 DAYS: NOVEMBER 1 - 11, 2017 for guided tours, Visiting required for group tours. Madrid • Salamanca • Lisbon • Seville • Granada • Toledo Discounts for children and Hosted by Joan and Walter Schmidt FOR A BROCHURE AND MORE seniors, groups of ten or more INFORMATION CONTACT: and Channel 13 subscribers $2699 PER PERSON FROM NEW YORK Mrs. Joan Schmidt (Air/land tour price is $2049 plus $650 government taxes/airline imposed surcharges) Tel: (845) 332-5179 11 Mill House Road INCLUDING: Roundtrip Air from New York, $650 govt. taxes/airline surcharges Email: First Class/Select Hotels, Most Meals, Comprehensive Sightseeing and much more!! [email protected] Marlboro, NY 12542 845.236.3126 Located in New York’s historic Hudson Ferncliff Forest Valley, Gomez Mill House, home to Jewish pioneers, a Revolutionary War patriot, successful farmers, an Arts and Crafts Rhinebeck’sRhi b k’ numberb one ffree attraction,tt papermaker, and social activists, was offering an amazing view of Hudson founded as a trading post by Colonial Jewish leader Luis Gomez in 1714, and is the oldest Valley from our Observation Tower. standing Jewish dwelling in North America. Enjoy hiking, picnics, camping or just Visit the Mill House Museum - Dard Hunter Paper Mill. It represents over 300 years of walk your dog in our wonderful 200 the American Experience. acre Forest Preserve. [email protected] www.gomez.org Open all year 68 Mount Rutsen Rd., Rhinebeck, NY

845-876-3196 for additional information ferncliffforest.org

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS SUMMER LEARNING FOR YOUTH

AT OLANA Week 1: Real and Imagined Eco-Landscapes July 10-14 | 9AM-3PM | Ages 6-13 JOIN US FOR FUN & LATE NIGHT SHOPPING IN RED HOOK VILLAGE. Week 2: Paper Art July 17-21 | 9AM-3PM | Ages 6-13 ON THE FIRST FRIDAY OF EVERY MONTH SHOPS FOR MORE INFORMATION & REGISTRATION STAY OPEN UNTIL 9:00 PM. WWW.OLANA.ORG Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 25

Take your art supplies outside. Spring- you won’t have to worry about the mess. time offers a free art show filled with color- Don’t forget to look up. The daylight ful blooms. Why not spend time outside lasts a little longer in the springtime, so painting or drawing what you see? Your letting kids stay out until it is dark enough kids will love the change of scenery, and to see the stars makes you the cool parent.

PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO Dandelions gone to seed provide delight for children. Taste

A Warm Irish Welcome Awaits You At

The Catskills Provide the Ingredients.

Gastropub • Dining • Events Eclectic American Cuisine with an Irish Twist! Featuring Chef Josh Paige • Happy Hour Mon. - Fri. 3-6pm • Daily Specials • Monthly “Oiche Gaelach” We just churn them together. Irish Music Night • 1st Sunday of the month Come taste our delicious, homemade ice cream in Woodstock, NY. — Irish Breakfast w/pint of Our traditional and seasonal ice creams, sorbets and specialty frozen Guinness 12 noon - 3 pm desserts are all homemade and created using fresh, locally-sourced ingredients – including the milk we source from Ronnybrook Farms. Beer Garden & screened porch open for dining! sICECREAM sCAKES sSUNDAES sTREATS Pavilion available for Weddings, Parties, Gatherings and More. Like and follow us on Facebook + 215 Huguenot St., New Paltz Instagram and show us in-store, get a free (845) 255-7888 cookie with purchase! Open Tues. - Sun., Noon - 10 pm Best Guinness in the Hudson Valley 26 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley

Just spread out a blanket, lie down and Do feed the animals. The Forsythe Na- look up toward the heavens. If you have ture Center in Kingston offers a small-scale a pair of binoculars or a telescope, the zoo where families can enjoy a low-key out- experience is even better. ing for free. It is stroller- and wheelchair- friendly, so it’s great for every member of Your palette’s desire is truly our pleasure! your family. Bring your extra veggies and popcorn to feed the animals. There is no rush to move along. Kids will enjoy tak- ing a book from the tiny library, or leave one behind for others to read. Delight in • TV & Film Catering • Event Catering • Private Chef Brunch, Lunch & Dinner Parties a picnic lunch before setting the kids free • Farm-to-Table in the Kinderland park right next door. • Local, Organic & Cruelty-Free Ingredients • Special Diets Honored Creatively Catch a show. The local theater scene is rich with talent, but don’t dismiss your Woodstock/Hudson Valley local high school. Student productions Catskills/NYC Metro Area are often family-friendly and provide a Westchester/Long Island less formal atmosphere for school-aged — We Travel Abroad — kids. Ticket prices can’t be beat, and it’s Sarah Chianese, Head Chef a fun way to introduce kids to the magic www.MangiaAndEnjoy.com of live performance. 914-494-9951 “Cook With Abandon or Not At All...” Taste

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Hudson Valley Wine & Cheeses Pairing Sat/Sun May 13th & 14th 845-255-4613 • GARDINER, NY • WHITECLIFFWINE.COM Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 27

home, there are plen- OPEN 7 DAYS ty of ways to enjoy the Serving Breakfast, season. Before the Lunch, and Dinner first spring blossoms 7am – 9pm disappear, check the Also serving events calendars at beer & wine your library, favor- Outdoor Seating ite organization and Specials Daily your favorite publica- 3542 main st. stone ridge, ny tions for a full list of “fresh homemade cooking” 12484 PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO fun things to do each 845.687.0022 The Catskills are fi lled with rugged, and easier, hiking month. theroostinstoneridge.com trails that can take one fully out of cellphone range. The Hudson Valley is just bustling with an abundance of low-cost and free activi- Mountain Brauhaus ties for families. Whether you like to get CELEBRATING outside with the kids or to stay closer to RESTAURANT • BAR • ENTERTAINMENT 69 YEARS! Winter Clove Road • Round Top, NY HEAT & AC (518) 622-3751 OPEN: FRIDAY AT 4PM • SATURDAY & SUNDAY 1PM UNTIL CLOSING GRAND OPENING WEEKEND - APRIL 14-16 Friday • 7 pm - The Cabaret Duo Saturday • 6 pm Hors d’Oeuvres followed by a Choice Dinner! Saturday • 8 pm Music by The Alpine Squeeze Live Music Entertainment Every Weekend www.crystalbrook.com/mountain-brauhaus

Artisan Market ARTS & CRAFTS Kids SPECIALTY FOODS Zone $5.00 Admission Rain (12 & under free) 11AM or Shine Music & Fun ’til 6PM Please no pets Voted Best Place to Network & Relax The Marbletown Inn Fine Cigars & Fine People Family Dining & Daily Specials 22 South 7th Street, Hudson, NY 12534 Italian American Cuisine 518.828.1505 Monday: Chicken Parmesan & Pasta • ironhorsecigardepot.com served with soup, salad, and garlic bread — $9.95 Wed: Spaghetti Let the Tavern at the Beekman with Meat Sauce served w/ soup or salad Arms provide both the location and garlic bread — $8.95 and the culinary expertise to Thurs: Wing Night make your special day an event Eat in 50¢ each & to go 60¢ to remember. each (min. 12). Hot, Mild, Superhot, BBQ or Honey! Lunch 11:30pm to 4pm Friday: King Crab Legs Dinner 4pm to 9pm served with soup & salad, vegetable, potato & garlic bread — $28.95 (Fri & Sat 10pm) Sunday Brunch 10:30 am to 3:30 pm Sat. & Sun: Prime Rib Night King Cut — $19.95 • Queen Cut — $17.95 GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE served with soup, salad, starch, & vegetable Give someone a truly special event. Dine in the oldest inn in America. Serving N.Y. Style Pizza Catering for all your party needs! The Tavern at the Beekman Arms Serving Lunch & Dinner • Closed Tuesday 845-876-1766 2842 Rt. 209, Stone Ridge, NY 6387 Mill Street Rhinebeck, NY 12572 (845) 338-5828 www.beekmandelamaterinn.com 28 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Spring sports Getting outdoor exercise!

By Chris Rowley

he arrival of spring is the seasonal change with the biggest impact on our spirits. After a long winter, with snow coming and going, ice, freezing rain and those days of wintry mix, it T usually feels in spring that we’re finally emerging from a bun- ker, blinking in the light of day. The sunlight is stronger, warmer. The grass is greening up, the sky is blue, and there’s that sense of almost a new world as we return from the cold and the dead of winter. It’s also the time when ballfields sprout players. There’s the crack of bat on ball. The tennis courts come alive. The little white balls begin to PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO fly far, far down the fairway. Runners who’ve been stuck on roads for Little League is great fun for kids and a months return to the mountain trails. Kayakers can get back in the wa- wonderful way to spend a couple of hours in the ter. Fishing enthusiasts, who’ve been tying flies and checking gear since warmth of a spring sun. Thunder in the Valley POW WOW July 15- 16 Saturday 10-6 Sunday 10-5 Big Indian Park, 8393 Route 28,Big Indian, NY Gates open at 10am • Opening ceremony at Ilam • Grand Entry at 12 noon Host Drum Spirit of the Mountain Singers Guest Drum to be announced Arena Director Tony Moon Hawk MC John Boles Jim Red Fox Story Teller This is a Festival of Native American Dancing, Drumming, Storytelling, Crafts Vendors, demonstrations, children's craft area, art, food and more! Children's Teepee, dancing with public participation and more. Bring your blanket or chair and spend the day learning about Native American Culture with us. Adults $6 • Senior $3 • Children 6-12 $3 Children 5 and under FREE PLEASE NO DRUGS OR ALCOHOL Sponsored by the Big Indian Native American Cultural Center,Inc Our Mission is to share all cultures! For more information call 845-254-4238 Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 29

Christmas, are ready to take on the wily in the lives of so many youngsters. Many trout once more. will meet the first uniforms in their lives, In the Hudson Valley, where winter and then bats, gloves and balls! can be long and hard, spring is especially There are lots of adults desperate to be welcome. A slew of high-school sports are out there. While most of us are content starting their spring seasons: baseball, with running 5 and 10 Ks, or some tennis, softball, lacrosse, track and field, tennis, or golf at weekends, others are keen to golf. Every family with a varsity or junior push their limits and put their hard-won varsity player is on constant alert. skills to use. The Hudson Valley’s two ama- Not far behind comes Little League, teur baseball leagues are gearing up for which will be kicking off in April in towns their seasons. The Hudson Valley Men’s and villages across the area on a special day Baseball League (HVMBL) is playing its Entertainment

United Way of Ulster County UNITED WAY OF ULSTER COUNTY PRESENTS DANCING WITH THE STARS Ulster Style!

VIP Seating FRIDAY APRIL 28, 2017 (First 3 Rows) DOORS OPEN AT 7 P.M. $75 in advance SHOW STARTS AT 7:45 P.M. General Admission Diamond Mills Hotel & Tavern $60 in advance 25 South Partition Street $70 at the door Saugerties, NY 12477 Dinner Special at the Tavern 4:30 to 7pm $25 prix fixe meal (not included with event tickets)

Please call DJ Diamond Mills Tavern for dinner reservations: Cash Bar (845) 247-0700 Hors D’oeuvres Our Ulster Stars! Kristin Backhaus Our Judges! Gilda Riccardi Our Instructors! Anna & Ken Brett Head Judge Linda Freeman Malik Andrews Got2Lindy Dance Studios Ginger & Tony Davis Lourdes Cruz Hayes Clement Greg Helsmoortel & Terri Hlavaty Ron Fields Cornelia Denvir Barbara & John Klassen Jean Keehan Peggy Schwartz Alan Roberts & Linda Bradford Pam Marshall Mark Smith Shannon Harris Schreibman & David Salvatierra Andi Turco Levin Michael Spoto Carol & Steve Pressman

Order your tickets today! Presenting www.UlsterUnitedWay.org Sponsor or call 845.331.4199 30 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley

first games of the season; let’s hear it for the Beekman Sharks! The HVNABA is Entertainment also out there, as young men play hardball for as long as they can. The HVMBL also has a midweek softball league, with eleven clubs, including the New York Isotopes, a name spawned by PlayJune 8 - September on! 4 the Simpsons TV show and now incorpo- rated into softball leagues all around the TWELFTHTWELF NIGHT | PRIDE AND PREJUDICE world. There’s room for the slightly less THETHE BOOK OF WILLWI | THE GENERAL FROM AMERICA dedicated, too, on baseball fields. If you’re LOVE’S LABOUR’S LOST still thinking about getting out that old glove and playing ball, there’s a weekend league for the over 45s. You’re never too old to swing that bat. If tennis is more your style, there are plenty of opportunities to swing a racquet. Woodstock Tennis Club and Black Acre Tennis Club are private clubs. Hudson Valley Indoor Tennis also operates in Kingston, where there are public courts at Forsyth Park in Kingston, as well as at Loughran Park, just north of the city. There are six public courts at Ulster Coun- ty Community College in Stone Ridge.

Performing at Boscobel or exercise potential, Tickets from $20 | hvshakespeare.org tennis is in Garrison, NY Fhard to beat, both singles and dou- bles provide a reasonable work out and will raise your heart rate. Tennis is also the Hudson Valley’s cultural park a game that can be learned at any age. If you missed out in your younger years, for DANCE you can still learn to serve properly, play the net, and even master a good back- hand. 2017 SPRING PERFORMANCES Keen golfers have quite a few options DƒÙ‘«ϭϮͲ:çěϭϴ in the region. Around Kingston there’s Wiltwyck and Green Acres golf clubs, as well as the Twaalfskill Club. Up the road E pluribus ^ƒãçٗƒù͕ÖÙ®½ϮϮͻϳ͗ϯϬΙ ^çėƒù͕ÖÙ®½ϮϯͻϮ͗ϯϬ s/E unum ^ƒãçٗƒù͕Dƒùϭϯͻϳ͗ϯϬÖà ^֛‘®ƒ½ò›Äã &½ƒÃ›Ä‘Ês®òÊ͞:ƒÙ—°Äėƒ½çþ͟ NP WT KT ^çėƒù͕DƒùϭϰͻϮ͗ϯϬÖà &½ƒÃ›Ä‘Ês®òÊ AW hv1 ^ƒãçٗƒù͕DƒùϮϬͻϳ͗ϯϬÖà s ϭϬ,ƒ®Ùù>›¦Ý

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INTERNATIONAL DANCE CENTER TIVOLI NY TIVOLI CENTER DANCE INTERNATIONAL Check it out at hudsonvalleyone.com. KAATSBAAN photo: Gregory Cary, UpStream® 2015 Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 31 in Saugerties is the Lazy Swan Golf and Country Club, and in Woodstock the long- FOR TICKETS VISIT BELLEAYRE MOUNTAIN running Woodstock Club with nine holes BPT.ME/2920436 HIGHMOUNT, NY amidst spectacular Catskills mountain scenery. The Apple Greens golf course in Highland , a 27-hole championship course built on a former apple orchard by golf enthusiasts, provides a spectacular HOT JAZZ SAT./JULY 15 SAT./AUG. 19 SAT./SEPT 2 opportunity for the keen golfer. There are RICKEY GORDEN NANCY KAMEN BRIANNA THOMAS many other golf courses in the area, too. COOL MOUNTAIN QUINTET AT THE PIANO GOSPEL PLUS While golf gets us outside and into the sunshine, it isn’t exactly aerobic exercise. SAT./JULY 1 SAT./JULY 22 SAT./AUG 26 SUMMER For that, the spring offers some bicycle NEW BLACK EAGLE PEDRITO MARTINEZ PRICELLA BASKERVILLE 2017 racing and lots of running. Keen bicyclists DIXIELAND BAND AND FRIENDS VOICE have the Trooper Brinkerhoff Memorial BELLEAYREMUSIC.ORG (845)254-6904 [email protected] Bicycle Race at Coxsackie-Athens High School April 15. This event has a variety of distance races within it. The Women’s Woodstock Cycling Grand Prix on May 6 this year features both a 60-mile and a 34-mile event. For runners, spring brings all kinds of races to train for, and training is as at much the point as running. There are the 20172017the extreme ironman-type events. There are biathlons, triathlons, too, as well as gentle Dutchess County Fairgrounds 5ks in historic villages and on carriage APRIL 30 Autism Walk & Expo of the Hudson Valley roads in the hills. There are enough events (autismwalkhv.org) in the region for everyone. You could, were you keen enough, be running somewhere MAY 5 - 7 Rhinebeck Antique Car Show & Swap Meet (rhinebeckcarshow.com) for something every weekend from now 20 - 21 Northeast Outdoor Sports Show until mid-November. (NEOutdoorsportsshow.com) On May 1, for instance, there’s the Spring 27 - 28 Barn Star’s Antiques at Rhinebeck (barnstar.com) Sprint 5k trail run on Shaupeneak Ridge Preserve in Esopus. A challenging race, JUNE 2 - 4 Country Living Fair (countrylivingfair.com) this one covers some rugged trails on one 9 - 11 Good Guys Rod & Custom Car Show of the toughest short courses in the Hud- (Good-Guys.com) 24 - 25 Rhinebeck Crafts Festival (artrider.com) son Valley. Following the race, runners will Summer Classic Livestock Show enjoy a chili lunch provided by Soul Dog (enysummerclassic.com) of Poughkeepsie. You can register on the JUNE 30 - JULY 1 AMCA Antique Motorcycle Show Scenic Hudson website. (rhinebecknationalmeet.com) The May 5 Huguenot Street Nursery JULY 20 - 22 ENY Jr. Holstein Show School Community Run 5K takes place 29 Insane Inflatable 5K (insaneinflatable5K.com) on Broadhead Street in New Paltz. It AUGUST 22 - 27 172nd Dutchess County Fair (dutchessfair.com) offers a simple loop down Huguenot street to Main and onto the Wallkill Val- SEPTEMBER 9 - 10 Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival ley rail-trail. There’s a free children’s run (hudsonvalleywinefest.com) and prizes. For registration, go to www. Potter Bros Ski, Snowboard & Clothing Sale huguenotcoop.org/community_run.asp. (potterbros.com) The next day, the biggie of the spring run- 30 The Color Run (thecolorrun.com) ning season, Rock the Ridge, rolls onto OCTOBER 7 - 8 Barn Star’s Antiques at Rhinebeck (barnstar.com) the Mohonk Preserve. This endurance 21 - 22 NYS Sheep & Wool Family Festival challenge is also a fundraiser. Cover 5o (sheepandwool.com) miles within 24 hours, running and/or walking. Forests, ridges, great views of ALL EVENTS RAIN OR SHINE the surrounding countryside and a lot Bus Group Tours Welcome of running on the well-maintained car- For Special Rates, Discounts & more information visit riage roads. dutchessfair.com or call 845-876-4000 Spring is finally here. It’s time to get outdoors. 32 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Tuneful colonization There’s a lot of music around these coming months

By John Burdick has lived on. It exists in the traces of communal, arts-based ideology that hen I’m asked to de- remain, from the O+ festival to your scribe the perplexing neighbor, the famous old sculptor. state of the mid-Hudson The arts-colony analogy is also a euphe- W Valley music scene (and mistic way of describing a place where its arts milieu generally), the same met- artists often outnumber audiences. More aphor arises again and again in various makers than takers. More bands than guises. We are an arts colony. This is, of fans. That’s us. course, a nod to a storied past of Wood- If a large resident population of artists stock’s Byrdcliffe and Maverick commu- despairs of ever having sustainable audi- nities, which countered the dominant ences, viable venues, the critical mass of a industrial culture of the time with an “scene,” and all the proper arts careers of alternative model. That legacy (both of yore (trumpled now by the dim prospects retreat and of unlikely concentration of of current government patronage), what PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO creative energy in an unpopulous area) effect does this have on art itself? Bob Dylan, who spent several years living in Woodstock, has returned to the region to rehearse Where To Stay his bands at Poughkeepsie’s restored Bardavon Opera House in recent years. He will be playing a couple of sold-out concerts outdoors on the Kingston waterfront in late June.

Taking our region as a case study, it seems to push the product toward the experimental, the challenging, the un- compromising, the forbidding. It is almost as though our artists and curators exhibit a desperado logic and a contrarian psychol- ogy. If no one is going to listen except other artists and their closest circles of patrons and proponents, as an artist I’m going to Camping My Way, Your Way, Skyway. do whatever the hell I want, masses be damned, gate be damned. If you chase Under the clear Catskills sky, there’s them away, perhaps they will come. nothing to interfere with your stargazing at $25 OFF The defining aesthetic of the region, circa Skyway Camping Resort. At Skyway, camping ANY 2-NIGHT STAY 2017, from the droning halls of Basilica doesn’t mean roughing it. It means being close WEEKDAYS IN MAY & JUNE in Hudson to the hubbub in Beacon, is to nature...and closer to the stars. Take advantage of this one of extreme difficulty and progressive Sure, you can pitch a tent here, but you’ll find limited time offer! values. Running up and down the river, another level of comfort in our rental RV’s and Use coupon code ULS501 park model cottage-style trailers. Call (845) 647-5747 for more from EMPAC to Manitoga, is a hotbed of www.skywaycamping.com details. Restrictions apply. serious art and inquiry with an especially New reservations only. inflamed and defiant avant-garde. When the seasonal venues, relaxed work sched- Follow us on Social Media! #StaySkyway ules, art tourists and recreative spirit roll Skyway @skywaycamping @skywaycamping @skyway_camping around, let 2017 be known as the Summer

Camping Resort   s0/"OX'REENlELD .9sWWWSKWAYCAMPINGCOM of Grueling Difficulty. To be fair, The Summer of Grueling Dif- Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 33 ficulty is softened some by the established and healing marquee name in that festi- spanning way: Lake Street Dive, Richard popular festivals in which our region is val’s incredible decade-plus run. That’s Thompson, Los Lobos, Josh Ritter, Arlo. uncommonly rich. Here are a few of them: followed by the equally huge Hunter The Hutton Brickyards on the Kingston Mountain Jam (June 2 through June 5) Mountain-based A Taste of Country. waterfront will likely become a premier is headlined this year by Tom Petty and The Clearwater Festival (June 17 and 18) new festival venue in the region, beginning the Heartbreakers, the most ameliorative is totally back in its inclusive, generation- with a modest start of a pair of concerts on June 23 and 24 featuring an obscure artist named Bob Dylan. Brought to us through Destination: Home! a collaboration between property owner MWest and Bardavon-UPAC director ne of the great things about History buffs can get their fill at the Chris Silva, the gigs have an undeniable the Hudson Valley’s bifurcated New Windsor Cantonment near New- potential. Onature (quartered, if you in- burgh, home to George Washington’s The Grey Fox Bluegrass Festival remains clude its bordering mountain ranges) is headquarters, or Martin Van Buren’s about as stylistically pure and protected that it’s easy to be a tourist in one’s own modest home outside Kinderhook. as a relevant festival can afford to be home. A trip across the river, or off into Hudson has the state’s impressively (Ricky Skaggs, Mark O’Connor, Jerry the mountains, can feel as soul-enrich- inclusive Fireman’s Museum, while Douglas), whereas the Falcon Ridge Folk ing as a trip to another state or country. Kingston has the Maritime Museum Festival (August 4 through 6) has always Especially when one considers the and Saugerties boasts a lighthouse to celebrated the blurring of the lines. wealth of destinations right here. Ever which one can walk. There’s a very cool Meanwhile, Mysteryland will take over been to Innisfree Gardens outside of children’s museum in Poughkeepsie, Bethel from June 6 through 9 with an Millbrook, an extraordinary example and another firemanic museum and the astonishing number of young people and of “cup gardens” that get particularly Senate House historic site in Uptown laptops, and you will hear absolutely noth- resplendent this time of year, or the Kingston. Just a few miles further afield ing about it. Look up the season’s offerings nearby Trevor Zoo at the private Mill- await the grand museums of Albany, at The Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. book School just east of town? How Saratoga, West Point and Bethel Woods As usual, it’s amazing. about New Paltz’s Historic Huguenot (Valhalla for old hippies!). Don’t forget Street, which offers exquisite events Stonecrop Gardens in Westchester, et them have their bacchanaliae. and exhibits in addition to having the Cooperstown, and all that the Berk- LThe Summer of Grueling Difficulty nation’s greatest concentrated collec- shires offer. Who needs destinations tion of stone houses? elsewhere? The east shore of the Hudson River is The 1850 House filled with the Gilded Age’s great man- Inn & Tavern sions in Staatsburgh (The Mills’) and Hyde Park (Vanderbilts!) along with such historic homes as the Livingston family’s Clermont in Columbia County, Boscobel in Garrison, and the Roos- evelts’ Hyde Park home and nearby Valkill. For arts, try Frederick Church’s opulent vista-hugging Olana south of www.rondoutvalley.com Hudson, as well as his mentor Thomas Rental Cabins • Midweek Specials Cole’s quieter Cedar Grove across the Annual Sites w/full hook-up river in Catskill. (845) 626-5521

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PUBLIC DOMAIN PHOTO Mountain Jam at Hunter Mountain in Greene County in June kicks off a region-wide summer fi lled with music offerings all around the Hudson Valley. has bigger fish to fry. Consider Bard, a conference all in one. SummerScape, Lodge” festival, two days and nights of mecca of rigor. One can only imagine which seems to run from spring to fall, is uncut experimental weirdness at a Ger- in awe what kind of seriousness Bard what you might call revisionist fun. man holiday resort (Reidbauer’s) on top SummerScape is a vacation from. The Down the road in New Paltz, the center- of a mountain. SummerScape press releases run nearly piece of the lively seasonal scene remains 20 immaculately written and proofread PianoSummer (July 10 through 28). Now icrovenues and series through- pages, describing a marvel of integrated, in its 22nd season, Vladimir Feltsman’s Mout the region celebrate the free- multi-disciplinary programming. The “… summer series celebrates the grueling from and the transgressive. Some of And his world” series, this year devoted vetting, training, and final evaluation them you can hardly even find with to the genius and significance of Frederic of a next generation of concert pianists. your Google, so you have to really want Chopin, is music, history, interdiscipli- State and academic institutions tend to it: Earwaker in New Paltz, Downtown nary art and an intensive professional be somewhat canonically bound, but the Earth in Kingston, Elysium Furnace same cannot be said of the year-round Works in Beacon. radical programming at Mt. Tremper Don’t try and stop me now. The Wassaic Apple Greens Arts, or WGXC and Wavefarm’s “The Project offers extravagantly rich and high- Golf Course Places to stay, resorts and spas

one are the grand Catskills resorts and mountain houses which accom- modated up to 300 guests, or the boarding houses scattered around the GHudson Valley that were preyy much the spare rooms in residents’ Victo- rian homes. However, those popular turn-of-the-century lodgings have been rein- carnated in the current era, with many kinds of places for visitors to stay, depending on taste and budget. Campgrounds are an option for those who want to save money, cook outdoors, and sleep really close to nature. The next step up the price scale is the smatter- ing of motels that offer convenience and basic accommodations. For more luxury, attentive hosts, and possibly a swimming pool, look for a small hotel or bed-and- Senior Citizen Rate on breakfast. Tues. & Thurs. The old boarding houses have been replaced by home-sharing services such as HomeAway and Airbnb, which enable residents to rent out all or part of their Special Discount on houses for a weekend or longer. To save money, young people band together to stay in a house, families have a homey atmosphere to spread out, and most houses Sat. & Sun. after 1 pm have kitchen facilities. Many family-oriented resorts from the mid-1900s still exist, usually offering 27 Holes packages that include meals, rooms, and access to swimming, hiking, tennis, rec- reation halls, entertainment and other amenities, plus the opportunity to social- 161 South St., ize with fellow guests. Another kind of resort is the spa, which generally provides Highland, NY 12528 exercise, saunas, massage, yoga and other health-oriented activities, all in the healing serenity of the mountains and often in the context of a high-end luxury (845) 883-5500 hotel — not all that different from the old resorts that brought myriads of guests to enjoy the beauty of this region. Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 35 grade multi-arts programming in a town I of the cultural tenor of the valley. Garage in Kingston. have never heard of. Kaatsbaan in Tivoli is To think that chamber music and main- The hills, these hills, are not merely dedicated to modern dance, which is just stream jazz used to be what we called seri- alive but on fire with the sound of music: another way of saying amazing, cutting- ous and difficult, and to think that I have caterwauling, droning, dissonant, alien, edge, and global music. Basilica Hudson gotten this far without mentioning such contentious, taste-challenging music with kicks off the warmer months with its 24 jewels as Maverick Concerts’ internation- designs on your reality and your sanity. hour drone festival in late April. Manitoga ally known chamber-music series, or the So come on people, let’s really struggle. in Garrison continues to find novel ways to work of our countless chamber-music so- Get out there this summer and Have integrate music, performance, and visual cieties and programs, or the Catskill Jazz Difficulty! art with its stunning natural environment. Factory’s fruitful association with Bard’s Pauline OIiveros left us in late 2016, but Fisher Center, or the ongoing adenturous never has her name been so emblematic booking done by Jazzstock at the Senate WOODSTOCK Recreation

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845-255-0919 mohonkpreserve.org 36 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Cerebral springtime Area campuses off er lots to do at this time of year

By Paul Smart

emember what it was like to be a student at this time of year? Not so much el- Rementary or high school, when escape doesn’t come until June and the true heat of summer, but a col- lege student whose classes are drawing to a close by the end of April with May. There is a fast sprint for finishing pa- pers, paying library fines, and possibly even graduating. It’s a time when every spring week seems to have a bright klieg light and every warm night contains in- finite possibility. There are enough colleges around here to make such experiences easier to recapture than they are in many parts of the nation, PHOTO COURTESY OF SUNY NEW PALTZ but not so many as to have created the SUNY New Paltz boasts an active campus this time of year. The new anti-academic rapture that’s taken over student center connected to The Atrium, seen here, is a great place to visit.

elsewhere. Look at our college campuses as more Our main college campuses tend to be than a series of temporary cities on hills. welcoming places for their surrounding Taken together, they would add up to communities, offering up concert series, one of the region’s largest communities. art exhibits (and museums), brilliantly They’re a great resource, especially this au courant lectures and seminars, lots time of year as the weather warms and of sports to enjoy with avid hometown their various campuses come into their crowds, and big commencement days greatest glory. featuring some of the nation’s most ar- Sure, autumn often seems more edu- Fresh Fruits & Vegetables • Bakery ticulate speakers. cation-oriented, and winter tends to feel Jane’s Homemade Ice Cream THE GARDENER’S PLACE TO BE! Farm Fresh • Flowering Annuals • Huge Selection of Perennials • Vegetable Plants and Herbs • Trees, Shrubs & Rose Bushes • Gifts and Supplies for Gardening • Bulk Mulch, Compost & Top Soil

April 22nd 9 – 5 From our Family Farm to your Family Table since 1933 FREE Admission! 9LVLWRXU)DUPVWDQGV Rhinebeck Mt. Tremper Red Hook Corner River Rd & Rt 199 5W 6RXWK%URDGZD\ ĥĥ ĥĥ ĥĥ Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 37 designed for indoor pleasures of the mind. as a jewel of our state university system, rollicking Shakespearean fun Comedy of Now, however, is the time when colleges has a great regional art gallery (the Dorsky Errors Thursdays through Sundays from are truly ascendant. Having grown up a Museum), as well as a first-class theater April 20 through 30, a whole mess of great “fac brat” on various college campuses, program and fun student center (under baseball, lacrosse and other sports events, I have a bias toward thinking of college the glass next to the multi-story student plenty of recitals by students majoring in campuses as great playgrounds. union building). Upcoming highlights music, art shows, and the last of the school SUNY New Paltz, increasingly being seen on campus include a production of the year’s evening Humans versus Zombies

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WEDNESDAYSSATURDAYS IN WOODSTOCK IN SAUGERTIES through October 23 SATURDAYS INthrough SAUGERTIES October 28 through October 19 38 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley outdoor minigames on May 20 (during graduation weekend). The Benjamin Center think-tank on campus is hosting a conference on women’s suffrage April 21 and 22. Although commencement has been split over three days this year (May 19-21), with no speakers announced as of press time, it’s still fun to be around town that week if you can find parking. Across the river in Poughkeepsie, Marist is another big university-sized school. Its PHOTO COURTESY OF BARD COLLEGE sports teams tend to play larger competi- College commencements, like this one at Bard College, feature rousing tors with bigger crowds. Campus-wise, speeches given by an illustrious array of speakers. Marist keeps growing in number of buildings. The largest events coming up a year-round series of tours and lectures looking to match Ariana Huffington’s, include a kids’ book story fest at the library as well as regular late-night Thursdays. Mary McCarthy’s, Tom Hanks’ or Susan on April 27, and then commencement on The campus is a great experience this Sontag’s famous words of previous years. May 20, with Washington Post pundit time of year no matter what’s going on. Its Eugene Robinson as speaker. grounds were considered one of the land- t Bard College in Annandale, civ- On the east side of Poughkeepsie, Vas- scape artist Frederick Olmstead’s greatest Ail-rights legend and congressman sar College is home to what may be aca- achievements. The coming months will John Lewis will give the commence- demia’s greatest small arts collection at the be chock-full with student and faculty ment speech on May 27. Other upcom- Lehman Loeb Arts Center, which offers recitals from the school’s great music ing events include a Wednesday even- program, Wednesday night swing dances, ing series of film screenings of works an international dance festival featuring by Ingmar Bergman and his followers, local and student companies on April 28, an April 15 lecture by graphic novel ist and even a Dog Day on May 3 where col- Neil Gaiman, an April 22 concert per- lege professors will bring out their pets for formance of Bela Bartok’s The Miracu- petting by home-missing students. Plenty lous Mandarin, a May 3 series of events of food will be served by all. for the nation’s climate seminars, a May Mind-wise, look consider attending an 16 choral concert of works by Bach and April 17 lecture, “Pushing for Institutional Vivaldi, and a June 3 concert by the Ju- Justice,” from Bishop Carol Joy Galla- lliard String Quartet. Also expect loads gher of the Native American Ministry of exhibits, a new Hessel Museum show, of Montana, alongside a second lecture and plenty of student dance and music that same evening on slave youths in the recitals all over the gorgeous campus. 19th century. On May 11 actor Federico The Leon Levy Institute of Economics Castellucio of The Sopranos fame will is drawing together some of the nation’s speak about his life, career and art col- leading economic theorists for discus- lecting. Other upcoming talks will cover sions of the implications of the Trump the European Union’s future and gender administration’s “America First” doc- equality today. On May 28 will come one trine over the April 18 and 19 weekend. CLAIRVOYANT = PSYCHIC = MEDIUM of academia’s great commencements, They probably won’t be pleased. with the Posse Foundation’s Deborah Bial There are many other college campuses, Psychic ROCKET NUMBER NINE RECORDS Readings The best selection of vinyl in the Hudson Valley. by Rose Selling your vinyl? 845-679-6801 7DONWRXV¿UVW 50 N. FRONT ST. CALL FOR TWO FREE QUESTIONS! UPTOWN KINGSTON 40 Mill Hill Rd, Woodstock, New York 845 331 8217 Private & Confidential Readings By Phone or In Person Check our Facebook for [email protected] upcoming in store events

psychicreadingsinwoodstockny.com Painting by Sean Sullivan Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 39 of course. The castle-like Military Acad- emy at West Point has closed its visitors’ EVENTS center until the autumn, but they still IN THE will be offering tours. Though their com- CATSKILLS mencement speaker hasn’t been named yet (and good luck getting clearance for that), there will be a performance of April 29 & 30 May 13 Annie! at Eisenhower Hall on April 30. TAP New York at Hunter Mountain RVW Wine, Brew & Beverage Festival Mount St. Mary’s in Newburgh is becom- www.tap-ny.com @ the Historic Catskill Point ing a hidden regional treasure, but has finished off most of its public calendar May 20 May 27 & 28 for the year already. Maifest at the Mountain Brauhaus East Durham Irish Festival SUNY Ulster in Stone Ridge is running a production of the hit comedy Almost, www.crystalbrook.com www.eastdurhamirishfestival.com Maine through next weekend, April 23, June 9, 10 & 11 June 16, 17 & 18 has some great sports teams, and is plan- ning both a cultural diversity day and Taste of Country Music Festival Mountain Jam XIII at Hunter Mountain spring fashion show for April 19 as well at Hunter Mountain www.mountainjam.com as an open house on April 29, plus loads www.tasteofcountryfestival.com of student performances capped by their graduation ceremonies on May 24. SUNY Dutchess, on the northern outskirts of Poughkeepsie, will also be presenting loads of recitals and art shows, plus an April 22 series of dance performances, an April 26 lecture on the recent rise of anti-Semitism by Evan Bernstein, and a For a complete listing of all events in The Great Northern Catskills visit May 6 Discover DCC Day. Commence- www.GreatCatskillEvents.com ment is on May 18. Finally, at Columbia- IT’S A WORLD AWAY… AND CLOSER THAN YOU THINK Greene Community College just outside Hudson various art shows and recitals will be augmented by a special 118th Duke Ellington birthday bash by musician- producer-inventor Malcolm Cecil on his 80th birthday on April 29. Their gradu- ation is May 13. To think, this is all without expanding “In our home, you are on your own but never alone.” one’s campus search northward into the NYS Dept. of Health Licensed Adult Care Home capital district’s many colleges, westward ———————— to Oneonta, or south into Westches- ter. Full Medical Coordination Unmatched Recreational Activities — Featuring — Interactive Music & Dance Classes Therapeutic Music Circles Voted Best Assisted SunKissed Tanning Senior Yoga • Tai Chi Living in the ...It’s never to early Strength & Balance Class Hudson Valley to get your TAN ON! Owned & operated locally by the Nestled on nine acres 27 Market Street DePoala & McNaughton Families in a country setting at Saugerties, NY 12477 845.331.1254 397 Wilbur Avenue, mountainvalleymanor.com Kingston, NY 518-821-4483 PET FRIENDLY Schedule a Tour [email protected] Benefit Accepted All-Inclusive Living and Stay for Lunch facebook: Sun Kissed Saugerties NY No Fees, No Deposits, No Worries 40 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley Art, grit and history Newburgh, a quirky city on the upswing

By Violet Snow

love living in the country, but sometimes I crave a dose of urban life. Wonderful Manhattan can get I overwhelming, so I was happy to discover the charms of Newburgh, a small city on the Hudson, halfway be- tween my hometown of Phoenicia and the George Washington Bridge. Once a prosperous industrial center, Newburgh began a precipitous decline in the 1960s but is now experiencing a revival as artists and writers gravitate toward the city, attracting investment to the historic downtown. A scenic water- front, Victorian mansions, historic sites, and trendy cafés and restaurants make Newburgh worth a visit. I was given a tour of the revitalized downtown area by Mindy Fradkin, a.k.a. Princess Wow, a performance artist and hat designer who moved from Dutchess PHOTO BY VIOLET SNOW County across the river about a year ago. Calabash. She lives in a condo complex on Water Street overlooking the river for a spec- tacular view of the muscular mountains a day, but, said Fradkin, “You get used to the river made it ideal for shipping and on the opposite shore. The slight drawback it.” Down the street is a former handbag industry. According to the Newburgh is the freight trains passing several times factory that has been converted into art- Historical Society website, “Shipyards, ists’ studios. foundries and tanneries dotted the shore, Health In the late 1800s, the city’s location on and her industries included the manu- Hours: Mon.-Fri. 9-6 • Sat. 9-4 Art galleries and museums

een hearing about how much of today’s art market is being dominated by artists who call the Hudson Valley home, at least part of each year, the same Bway the Hamptons once birthed and then nurtured Abstract Expressionism? COMPUTERIZED RECORDS The trick to catching what’s being made around here is to learn in which towns the COMPETITIVE PRICING galleries congregate. PERSONALIZED SERVICE Woodstock and Hudson have several longstanding arts organizations highlighting AND CHECK OUT both traditional and cutting-edge work. Major campus museums at Bard, Vassar OUR NEW GIFT SELECTION and SUNY New Paltz show top contemporary art. Jack Shainman’s The School in Peter G. Nekos, R. PH. Kinderhook is a world-class venue that draws visitors from all over. Art tourists and art students abound each summer. Rte. 28 • P.O. Box 474 Now’s also a great time for regular openings in Rhinebeck and New Paltz, High Boiceville, NY 12412 Falls and Kingston, Beacon and other small towns with burgeoning scenes. Check 657-6511 out local listings to see what’s available, who’s where, and when things are happen- ing. Hudson valley art openings provide great opportunities to meet and greet some A FULL SERVICE PHARMACY of our communities’ most creative people! Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 41

PHOTOS BY VIOLET SNOW Left Newburgh Waterfront; right, Mindy Fradkin of LIberty Street. facture of cottons, woolens, silks, paper, of goods, industry began to migrate away over from the ferry in 1963. (The ferry, res- felt hats, baking powder, soap, brick, from the river towns. In the 1970s, New- urrected in 2005, now delivers commuters steam boilers, automobiles, coin silver, burgh was scrambling to recover from the to the Beacon train station on weekdays.) ice machines, moving-picture screens, shift of shopping to suburban malls and The town government decided on a course and lawn mowers.” the loss of traffic through the downtown of urban renewal and razed swaths of old When trucks replaced ships for transport when the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge took mansions from the waterfront. Then the

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PHOTOS BY VIOLET SNOW Left, record album decor in Wherehouse; right, Grand Street, Newburgh. oil crisis happened, and there was no buildings with mansard roofs, pillared rock’n’roll posters in the windows. Over a money to rebuild. Today, public opinion porches and Victorian bric-a-brac. We logo of George Washington in sunglasses, is divided on whether construction should take a drive past them, reveling in historic it advertises 24 rotating draft beers, Taco repopulate the long grassy slope that cov- and aesthetic wonder. Investors have been Tuesdays, Sunday brunch and live music. ers several blocks of the western side of buying and renovating these homes, as Washington’s longest-occupied Revolu- Water Street. It affords a splendid view updated gathering spaces pop up on tionary War headquarters is located down but generates no taxes for the city. nearby Liberty Street. the street. It ia open as a museum in the A few blocks inland, Montgomery and The Wherehouse is a restaurant hear- warmer months, so our first president Grand streets are still lined with mansions kening back to the Sixties, with vinyl finds his way into various local ventures. built in the heyday of the 1800s, elegant records covering the walls and early Ms. Fairfax, an upscale Liberty Street restaurant, is named after one of his TM mistresses. Zena Rommett Floor-Barre Ethnic cuisines are also found on the Classes block, including the Korean dishes of Tuesdays 5:30-6:30pm VISIONEXCEL eye care MELINDA JACKSON, DANCER ...WHERE EYEWEAR IS AN ART! Access Physical Therapy 2568 Rt 212, Woodstock Contact: Andrea Pastorella • 845-282-6723 • [email protected]

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Seoul Kitchen and the international and Machu Picchu. brunch menu of Caffe Macchiato. Frad- QiGong kin takes me into Calabash Caribbean roadway is really broad, with a In Nature Restaurant, where the back room offers a Bsense of spaciousness that spills out at the Mohonk Preserve small performance space. Ethnic diversity towards the river at the eastern end. At is one thing I miss in the rural Catskills, the corner of Liberty Street, in the for- so it’s a delight to be greeted warmly by mer Hotel Newburgh, is Safe Harbors Exercises to open your heart, the Jamaican owners, Debbie and Rudy of the Hudson, a non-profit housing strengthen your body and Duffus. A few blocks away on Broadway and arts redevelopment organization. cultivate your life force. are two Peruvian restaurants, Villa Inca Thanks to $21 million in government Awaken Wednesdays 7:45–8:30AM May 10–June 29 Health Transition Thursdays 5:00–5:45PM May 11–June 30

Awaken Qi Gong: The perfect mid-week antidote to energize and balance your day. Calm your mind, enliven your spirit and enhance your vitality through a practice of easy-to-fol- low, gentle but powerful movements. Transition Qi Gong: Wind down from your day or prepare for evening activity. Replenish your energy, relieve stress, and restore a sense of well-being. QiGong classes take place at the Slingerland Pavilion at Spring Farm off Mohonk Road in High Falls. Ages 15 and up are welcome. Space is limited; registration is required at: register for QiGong at IN EMERGENCY CARE, www.mohonkpreserve.org IT’S ABOUT EXPERIENCE. OURS AND YOURS. Tai Chi Chuan Another way we’re investing in you. At HealthAlliance in Stone Ridge Hospital: Broadway Campus, a member of the Westchester Medical Center Health Network (WMCHealth), it’s all about Tai Chi (Taiji) : Enjoy the benefits experience. We’re board-certified in emergency medicine, of this ancient Chinese martial art. nationally recognized for our stroke care and we use the latest Learn a long, slow sequence of in telemedicine to give our patients access to the region’s circular, balanced movements. These leading specialists. Our patients tell us we make their experience elegant movements are the founda- exceptional by treating them with the utmost respect and clearly tion of the entire system and embody communicating about every step of their care. all of the physical and philosophical The Emergency Department at HealthAlliance Hospital: principles of Taiji. Broadway Campus. Another way we’re Advancing Care. Here. Marbletown Community Center 3564 Main Street, Stone Ridge, NY Tuesdays 10:00 Thursdays 9:30

hahv.org To register for Tai Chi or for questions about Tai Chi or other Westchester Medical Center Health Network includes: QiGong classes, contact: WESTCHESTER MEDICAL CENTER I MARIA FARERI CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL I BEHAVIORAL HEALTH CENTER MIDHUDSON REGIONAL HOSPITAL I GOOD SAMARITAN HOSPITAL I BON SECOURS COMMUNITY HOSPITAL ST. ANTHONY COMMUNITY HOSPITAL I HEALTHALLIANCE HOSPITAL: BROADWAY CAMPUS HEALTHALLIANCE bobbi esmark 845-399-1033 HOSPITAL: MARY’S AVENUE CAMPUS I MARGARETVILLE HOSPITAL [email protected] 44 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley

PHOTOS BY VIOLET SNOW Left, Safe Harbors; right, Grand Street Mansions, Newburgh. funds awarded in 2004, the sprawl- Gabrielle Burton-Hill is opening a side that Newburgh still has its inequities and ing brick building has been turned into room for a community circle. The topic a high rate of poverty. an affordable-housing complex with a of discussion is the proposed reduction of Fradkin admits there are parts of the performance space in the historic Ritz visiting hours at a local prison, a reminder city she avoids as unsafe. The Restorative Theater. Also in the building is Space Create, a collaborative workspace and art gallery, Restaurants with artist studios, community rooms, and the office of the Restorative Center, he Hudson Valley was once food cooked by the farm wife. Modern an organization devoted to grass-roots dotted with farms, and many agribusiness has pretty much done justice. We walk into the gallery’s show Tfarmers rented rooms out to away with that lodging option, but a of abstract art by Judy Thomas, just as summer guests who ate just-picked growing number of today’s agricultur- alists remain to supply today’s restau- rants with fresh ingredients. Spring through fall, vegetables and fruits, free-range eggs, grass-fed beef, wild trout, goat cheese, maple syrup, honey and other locally sourced foods provide the foundation for dishes high in vital- ity and flavor. Farm-to-table restaurants specialize in these products, but many other eat- eries serve them as well. Eating-out op- tions run the gamut from pizzerias and diners to steakhouses, ethnic cuisine, and vegan food. Many restaurants and bars also carry locally produced alcohol — microbrewed beer, artisanal liquor and organic wine. You can expect to find high-end restau- rants where the chef has been lured away from a tony Manhattan joint by the plea- sures of mountain air and a less cutthroat environment. In historic Hyde Park, the Culinary Institute of America turns out talented chefs who choose to stay in the area and staff local restaurants. Before heading out to eat, always check the hours of your target estab- lishment, since many restaurants serve breakfast and lunch but not dinner, or vice versa, and some are closed mid- week for part of the year. Explore Hudson Valley April - June, 2017 • 45

Center was founded by former public de- dictionary, and over a million more 35-acre landscape in the middle of the city, fender Shailly Agnihotri, whose method treasures. designed by the architects of Manhattan’s of facilitated circles has been codified Other Newburgh highlights include Central Park. as the Newburgh Model and presented Motorcyclopedia, a museum featuring There is such a wide range of places to around the world. vintage motorcycles, and Downing Park, a explore in this lively Hudson River city! A few doors down is 2 Alices Coffee Lounge, which hosts intimate concerts, Pets Thursday trivia nights, and Friday open poetry readings. Near the river end of Broadway stands the classical colonnade of the Karpeles Manuscript Library, a PLAZA FEEDS museum housing the world’s largest private holding of important original 845.626.7675 4739 ROUTE 209 manuscripts and documents. The ar- ACCORD,NY chives include the original drafts of the Bill of Rights, Einstein’s formulation of “E=mc2,” Roget’s thesaurus, Webster’s

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e were swimming in human waste. Hudson River flotsam, that is. W Once upon a time, in a river long ago, local municipalities dumped human waste directly into the water. This was pre-Riverkeeper days, pre- Clearwater days, pre-PCB days. A group of adolescent n’er-do-wells, we mingled uncaring with the effluvia as we swam blithely off of Indian Point — that’s pre- nuclear power plant Indian Point — trying our best to make it across to the west side of the river to the ghostly array of World War II ships called the mothball fleet. Sandy Donohue, our strongest swimmer, made it a matter of personal honor to PUBLIC DOMAIN - NYC PUBLIC LIBRARY COLLECTION The mothball fl eet off Jones Point, across from where the Indian Point nuclear plant now is, served for decades as a sort-of insurance policy should the vessels ever be needed again. swim the mile or so across the river from there was the maniacal square-shaped Verplank’s Indian Point at White Beach Irish redhead with the broken front teeth to Stony Point across the way. He’d hang (a previous sledding accident) swinging May 20 & 21 gleefully — miraculously, even — on one like a chimp-in-heaven on the vine of the of the 50 or so ships’ huge anchor chains, forbidden fleet. As far as I can remember, waving to us as we would watch through a none of the rest of us ever made it across pair of binoculars. It was a thrilling sight: the river. Shopping TheThe Kiltmaker’s Kiltmaker’s ApprenticeApprentice

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But not for trying. corner ahead. In remember Jimmy Evan- Everything ended at the river. The only The river was some kind of ribbon of life gelista, our own James Dean, the coolest missing piece to its mystical allure was itself to me then, a magical demarcation dude in town, chugging a cold beer while maybe a “ghat,” a holy place like in Benares, between sewage and the stars, the highest hanging off one of the cables of the Bear where maybe the now-dead Ba-Ba, Matty, and lowest levels I could then imagine. I Mountain Bridge. I remember making out Jimmy, Angie, my father, and even Tony remember sitting in science class in Drum with the beautiful Angie Gaetano in my and Freddy, could have entered it for one Hill Junior High School (in Peekskill, father’s 1957 Chevy one night overlooking last time and floated away, covered in flot- the beat-up old river town on the east the river at Inspiration Point. I remember sam, toward the west and the unknown. side of the Hudson), way up top on the following Ba-Ba, our deaf-mute friend It’s in my will. Cremation. Take out a third floor, and looking out the window, who thought he was a car, on his automo- rowboat and dump what’s left of myself Siddhartha-like, onto the bend in the river tive journeys through nighttime Peekskill into the river in the spirit of the poet John and daydreaming its mystical (and meta- down to the river. Keats: “To be writ on water.” phorical) possibilities. As a small child I had loved Tuffy the Tugboat’s trip down Shopping a river to the big city and the great ocean. “Richard, do you know how many chromosomes humans carry?” asked my ome of our region’s villages are even sleepier than they once were, with not science teacher, Miss Burchetta, breaking much shopping besides a general store. While these communities have a rural my reverie of travel. Sappeal, you may need to head elsewhere if you’re looking for stuff to buy other “Huh?” I’m sure I replied, snapped back than household staples. Larger towns tend to be lively, with an array of boutiques to the nothingness that was school from and specialty shops. Each community has its own character, so drive around and see the great river of life. The Hudson, even which places appeal to you. full of shit, was like that then. You might find an emphasis on history, with antique shops housed in magnificent We, my friends and me, used to “borrow” Victorian buildings. Towns that cater to hikers, hunters, and fisherfolk have camp- rowboats from the old weathered shacks ing stores with plenty of supplies for outdoor recreation. Where the arts are cele- along Annsville Creek (on the outskirts of brated, look for bookstores, art galleries and music shops. If craftspeople live nearby, town) and float out onto the magic water, expect stores with local handmade items. marveling at the sense of buoyancy that Some towns feature upscale boutiques with stylish clothing and decorative house- came over us as we smoked some weed, wares. Almost every community has a gift shop with toys for the kids and Catskills drank some beer, and contemplated the souvenirs for the folks in the city. universe that was the west side of creation. Actually, many Main Streets (no matter what they’re actually called) include all It was only a mile so downriver to Indian these kinds of stores, with a tendency to feature more of one type. You will probably Point and the mothball fleet, but other discover after one or two visits where your tastes lie, but be sure to look around. than Sandy we hardly ever ventured over. Surprises await in all these quirky mountain and valley hamlets. We just swam in the river, happy to feel life — and the ever-present human waste — wash over our psyches. Even my father, age eight in 1918, had felt the magic, hand-paddling east to west on a wood plank across the river with his cousins Tony and Freddy from Beacon to Storm King Mountain. The Indian Point nuclear plant had been just approved. At the time it didn’t really mean much, just that we couldn’t float down our own special Ganges to White Beach any more. And the fleet, which once held post-World War II grain and then served as a backup in case of some disaster, was dragged away in the 1970s, long after my friends and I had come to our senses and moved on to other places and things. But it’s still there in my memories, that Hudson River, floating care-free and full of waste. I remember walking along the now MetroNorth rail tracks out toward Bear Mountain with Matty McKeon when a southbound train suddenly turned the 48 • April - June, 2017 Explore Hudson Valley

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