Expedition travel aboard the schooner Passing Cloud Experience the wildlife, wilderness, & cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast
2015 Expedition Dates Welcome Message from A Look Inside the and Destinations Outer Shores President Schooner Passing Cloud The sailing trip aboard the Passing Cloud not only showed me the bliss and beauty of the west coast but immersed me in 9 days of equally beautiful inner peace.
Mary Beth Morrow, Outer Shores Traveller
1 It was an experience not to be rushed, but rather to be savoured moment by moment.
Join us aboard the schooner Passing Cloud as we explore the wilderness, wildlife, and indigenous cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast. You’ll leave this journey rested and relaxed, inspired, conscious of vulnerable species and delicate ecosystems, and filled with wonderful memories and personal experiences from this remarkable corner of the world.
Contents
3 Outer Shores Expeditions
4 Welcome Message from our President
5 Schooner Passing Cloud
7 2015 Expeditions
8 Expedition: Pacific Rim
13 Expedition: Haida Gwaii
18 Expedition: Johnstone Strait
23 Expedition: Great Bear Rainforest
28 Expedition: Gulf Islands
33 Expedition: Photo Tour
42 Contact
2 Outer Shores Expeditions Outer Shores offers multi-day wildlife and cultural expeditions that are once-in-a- lifetime experiences. Guided by our crew of professional mariners and expert naturalists, our small groups of 8 guests explore, experience, and learn about the stunning wildlife and ancient cultures of coastal British Columbia. We are committed to providing exceptional expeditions while minimizing our impacts on the wildlife we encounter, and supporting the communities we visit.
Each day we travel between our anchorages and activities, stopping to view the wildlife we encounter and sailing whenever the opportunity presents. We go ashore at least daily, using our inflatable skiff to shuttle between ship and shore, and to explore the many islands and estuaries we visit. Due to the nature of our daily activities, a moderate degree of fitness is required for our expeditions.
All meals are prepared by our onboard chef, serving delicious dishes that are healthy and plentiful. Whenever possible, we source and serve foods that are sustainably raised and caught in B.C. We enjoy dining outside on Passing Cloud’s aft deck table, or inside around the dining table in her beautiful main salon.
3 A Welcome Message from the Outer Shores Expeditions President, Russell Markel
Dear Outer Shores Traveller,
It’s my distinct pleasure to invite you aboard our classic wooden schooner, the Passing Cloud, to explore, discover, and experience first-hand some of the most biodiverse regions and ancient indigenous cultures on the Planet, here on Canada’s Pacific Coast.
At Outer Shores, we recognize that our travellers seek truly exceptional and authentic educational experiences that provide in-depth understanding of the wildlife, ecosystems and cultures we visit. The diverse expertise of the Outer Shores Crew, and the remarkable abilities of our vessel, the schooner Passing Cloud, is our strength. In tandem, our guests are able to access and explore some of the most remote and pristine regions of the British Columbia Coast, while our expert crew reveals for them their inherent layers of ecological and cultural complexity. In doing so, it’s our hope, and our passion, that Outer Shores and Passing Cloud are quite literally vessels for engaging with nature.
In 2015, we are proudly embarking upon three conservation and citizen-science initiatives. First, when you join us for an expedition, we will contribute 2% of your expedition fees to the Outer Shores Conservation Fund, 100% of which we direct into to conservation-based research and education projects. Second, we will begin collecting valuable wildlife- sightings data using “SpotterPro”, an iPhone/iPad/Android app designed by “Conserve.IO – Technology for a Better Planet”. Finally, we are collaborating with a number of post-secondary institutions to offer ship-based field courses that enable undergraduate and graduate students to learn about coastal ecosystems in ways that textbooks, lectures, and labs simply can’t compare. Stay tuned for project descriptions and updates!
I look forward to you joining us aboard the schooner Passing Cloud for a voyage of discovery and adventure along the spectacular coast of British Columbia.
Captain Russell Markel, MSc, PhD Founder and President, Outer Shores Expeditions
Russell has spent his life and career as a marine ecologist and mariner studying, exploring, and sailing the B.C. coast. Founding Outer Shores is the realization of his ambition to bring together his experience, education, and passions to create an organisation that fosters education, awareness, and stewardship.
4 Schooner, Passing Cloud Comfort, Safety, & Sailing Ability
Our expedition vessel is the beautiful 70’ (21 m) classic wooden schooner, Passing Cloud. This iconic vessel has a rich history on the B.C. Coast, renowned for her elegant design and exceptional sailing abilities. Passing Cloud was designed by William Roué, who also designed the legendary Canadian schooner, Bluenose, featured on the back of every Canadian dime. Built to sail around the world, Passing Cloud is an ideal vessel for exploring and engaging with the nature and cultures of the B.C. Coast.
5 The schooner Passing Cloud was launched in 1974 in Victoria B.C., and features four private guest cabins, a beautifully redesigned main salon, and traditional wheelhouse. The three forward staterooms each have two spacious single berths (beds) complete with fluffy duvets and wool blankets, a private vanity with sink, mirror, hot and cold running water, a skylight or deck prism, brass reading lamps, drawers, and a hanging locker for storage. The aft stateroom is accessed from the wheelhouse, and boasts a large skylight, two double berths, private vanity with hot and cold water, and a small head (marine toilet). A spacious common head and shower are accessible from the main salon. Passing Cloud also features sea kayaks and an inflatable skiff to help us explore the shorelines, forests, bays and inlets of the BC coast.
Passing Cloud is a Transport Canada certified passenger vessel and meets the highest standards of safety and construction. She is fully equipped with modern safety and navigation equipment including radar, GPS, VHF radios, EPIRB, and digital chart plotter and satellite telephone.
6 2015 Expeditions Experience the wildlife, wilderness, and cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast
7 British Columbia’s Pacific Rim National Park 5-days navigating more than 300 islands and islets in an astonishingly rich cultural and wilderness environment With exploration of ancient cultures and coastal rainforests
Discover Encounter Learn The Nuu-chah-nulth cultural Black bears, grey whales, About the fascinating heritage of Barkley Sound and sea otters, and orca archaeological research the Broken Group Islands in this region
8 Pacific Rim National Park Vancouver Island’s West Coast
Our expeditions to the west coast of Vancouver Island explore and experience the wildlife, wilderness and rich Nuu-chah-nulth cultural heritage of Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands, an archipelago of more than 300 islands and islets long considered the jewel of the Pacific Rim National Park.
9 Living and travelling aboard the schooner BRITISH Passing Cloud, and through shore excursions, COLUMBIA kayaking and zodiac tours, we’ll explore the islands, beaches, shores, old-growth rainforests, rocky intertidal zones, kelp forest CLAYOQUOT communities, estuaries and fiords of this SOUND diverse region, while partnering with local VANCOUVER Nuu-chah-nulth Nations, researchers and historians to learn about its ancient and intact cultural heritage. Port Alberni
5-days / 4-nights VANCOUVER ISLAND Tofino 2015 departures: Apr 11,16, 21, 26, May 2
Price per person: $2400 CAD
BARKLEY Departs from / Returns to: Ucluelet SOUND Ucluelet
BROKEN GROUP ISLANDS UNIT What’s Included? PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK RESERVE All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, use of onboard gear and resources, Bamfield rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
10 Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Pacific Rim National Park
Day 1 Our expedition to Pacific Rim National Park begins in Ucluelet where we board Passing Cloud and set sail for the Broken Group Islands. As we sail through Macoah Thank you for a wonderful Passage we will be on the look out for spawning “unplugging from civilization”, Pacific herring and the grey whales, seabirds, and sea lions that congregate here to feast on this ecological educational, and gastronomic bonanza. We’ll also hope to encounter some of delight trip. We enjoyed the the newest arrivals to Barkley Sound, the sea otter population that is re-colonizing this region. Come rainbows, tidepool life, ducks, late afternoon we’ll drop anchor in a natural lagoon minks, eagles, osprey, giant sea between Dodd, Willis and Turtle Islands and take the stars, bears and whales. We look opportunity to sea kayak, take a zodiac tour, and shore walk, exploring the old growth forest and white-sand forward to joining you again. beaches found here. We’ll respectfully observe and discuss the deep shell middens, stone fish traps and Susan and Ken Wiegman, ancient clam gardens we encounter, left here by the Outer Shores Travellers Tseshaht First Nation over the thousands of years they’ve inhabited this region.
Day 2
An early morning beach walk kicks-off our second day, as we take advantage of the low tide to explore the world of diverse creatures like giant green anemones, lemon nudibranchs, bat stars, giant gumboot chitons, frilled dog whelks, peanut worms, purple encrusting sponges, and iridescent seaweed that flourish in this unique and fascinating ecosystem. We follow up our morning of discovery with a hot breakfast, fresh coffee, and tea as we prepare to heave up anchor and sail to Effingham Inlet in the north of the sound. Here we go ashore to explore the coastal estuary and hopefully catch a glimpse of foraging black bears. Next comes a sail through the Imperial Eagle Channel in search of humpback whales and harbour porpoises before anchoring in the Deer Group Islands for the night.
11 Day 3
We are now in the traditional territory of the Huu- ay-aht First Nation. In the past, the Huu-ay-aht First Nations people drew all they required from the wilderness and wildlife of this exceptionally productive environment. We will visit the coastal community of Bamfield, home to the Bamfield Marine Sciences Centre, which now figures prominently in this historic boardwalk community. Our afternoon has us sailing back across the Trevor and Imperial Eagle Channels to the Broken Group Islands. Here we’ll go ashore to explore ancient stone fish weirs at the “Great Tidepool,” before sailing past an outstanding sea lion haul-out site later in the day. We will anchor overnight at Wouwer Island.
Day 4 This morning we travel to Benson Island to tour the ancient village site of “C’isaa”, birthplace of the Tseshaht First Nation that was occupied for at least 5000 years. Here we will see the large shell middens that are the result of thousands of years of marine subsistence at this site. Later this morning we’ll cruise past the tiny ancient “fortress island” of Dicebox Island and learn about the archaeological research conducted here, shining some light on the socio-political-ecological dynamics that made this slight piece of land so vital some 1,500 years ago. In the afternoon we will leisurely stroll and explore the white- sand beaches of Clark or Turret Island before sailing and sea kayaking throughout the afternoon.
Day 5
Looking to squeeze every last drop out of this expedition, we will take a final morning shore walk, zodiac excursion, or exploration sea kayak today before heaving anchor and heading back to Ucluelet, all the while keeping out eyes peeled for more sea otters, whales and seabirds as we make our way back to port to say our final reluctant farewells prior to a disembarkation.
12 British Columbia’s Haida Gwaii Archipelago 9-days exploring the ecosystems, wildlife, & cultural heritage of one of the most spectacular places on the planet One of National Geographic’s Top 20 Places to Visit in 2015!
Discover Encounter Learn Ecosystems, wildlife, and Puffins, albatrosses, About the rich cultural cultural heritage of Gwaii sunfish, jellyfish, orcas heritage of the indigenous Haanas National Park and fin whales Haida Nation
13 Haida Gwaii Archipelago Islands at the Edge
Haida Gwaii (“Islands of the People” in the Haida language) is a remote island archipelago located approximately 100 km off the northwest coast of British Columbia. The “Galapagos of the North” is a world where giant spruce and cedar trees tower over salmon-rich streams, and kelp forests connect the land to the sea. An ecological hotspot, the unparalleled diversity of marine life here includes everything from puffins to albatrosses, sunfish to jellyfish, and killer whales to blue whales. Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area, and Haida Heritage Site (or simply “Gwaii Haanas”) protects the ecological and cultural treasures of this globally significant region from sea floor to mountain top.
14 Our 9-day expedition through Gwaii Haanas is dedicated to learning about the ecosystems and wildlife of the archipelago, while exploring the cultural heritage of the Masset Haida people who have lived here for more than 10,000 years. Throughout this expedition we’ll explore old-growth forests, white-sand beaches, rocky shores, ancient and modern cultural sites, and encounter the stunning wildlife BRITISH found here. Gwaii Haanas protects and informs us how COLUMBIA the Haida have thrived here in concert with the diverse ecosystems of this island archipelago for millenia.
9-days / 8-nights VANCOUVER Tlell
2015 departures: Jun 17, 25, Jul 3, 11, 19, 27 GRAHAM ISLAND Price per person: $5200 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Sandspit Queen Charlotte Skidgate Sandspit
What’s Included?
Land tour including the Haida Heritage Centre, float plane Moresby Camp flight over Gwaii Haanas, all meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, and use of onboard gear and K’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans) resources including rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the T’aanuu Linagaay expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred (Tanu) due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Hlk’yah GawGa (Windy Bay)
Gandll K’in Gwaay-yaay (Hotspring Island)
GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE
Rose Harbour
SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island)
Cape St. James
15 Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Haida Gwaii Archipelago
We structure our Haida Gwaii expeditions as one-way voyages between the northern and southern portions of the park, rather than return trips. By doing so we are able to reduce our travel time and spend more time exploring and sailing during each expedition. A distinct feature of all our expeditions is that we have no fixed itineraries. Instead, our days structured by the winds, tides, and wildlife we encounter, and the interests and expertise of our guests and crew members. Please note that the following sample itinerary describes a south-bound expedition.
Day 1 Our expedition begins upon arrival at the Sandspit I never dreamt of the beauty we Airport where you’ll be met by an Outer Shores Crew would find beneath the waters. member and our ground transportation. With our It was such a gift to see it and group assembled we’ll depart for the Alliford Bay ferry terminal and cross the short distance to Skidegate have someone explain it all to us. Landing. Tonight we’ll enjoy an authentic Haida dinner I loved learning about the ocean, and overnight accommodation at the Haida House the Haida, and experience first situated in Tlell. hand what it is like to be one with Day nature. 2 Judi Trotter, Outer Shores Traveller This morning after breakfast and a beach walk, we’ll travel to the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay. Here we will see and learn about the language, traditions, beliefs, and artistic expressions of the Haida culture, setting the stage for our journey through Gwaii Haanas. This afternoon, we’ll travel via ferry and passenger van to Moresby Camp, where we’ll join the schooner Passing Cloud. After meeting the crew and settling into your accommodations and attending a comprehensive safety briefing, we cast off our lines and set sail for the ancient village of K’uuna Llnagaay (Skedans) where we take a guided tour of the ancient Haida village. Later in the afternoon, we head back aboard Passing Cloud and travel towards Anna Inlet, where we set anchor for the evening.
16 Day 3
Today we travel towards the ancient villages of T’aanuu Llnagaay (Tanu) and Hlk’yah GaawGa (Windy Bay) to walk through an old-growth forest filled with massive cedar and spruce trees. We follow that up with a visit to a Haida Watchmen’s cabin to learn the story of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. We cap off our day by heading back to our floating home and enjoying an evening Day sail. Make sure to keep a sharp lookout for orca, which are frequent visitors to the area. 6 Today we visit Cape St. James (weather permitting), Day at the southernmost extremity of the Haida Gwaii 4 Archipelago. With ocean currents meeting from the east and west, this area is alive with marine life, Today, weather permitting, we hope to sail a few miles including tufted and horned puffins, sea lions, and from shore to reach the pelagic zone. This area is the orcas on the hunt for their next meal. This region perfect place to search for marine wildlife, such as is also home to one of our favourite white-sand pelagic seabirds, sharks, giant ocean sunfish, Pacific beaches on the BC coast, great for an afternoon of white-sided dolphins, and humpback whales. In the exploring, relaxing, and strolling barefoot along the afternoon we make our way closer to shore to explore shore. a small river system, and examine the remnants of wood-stake fish weirs (traps) dating from more than a thousand years ago. Day 7 We kick-off our day scouring the shoreline for intertidal archaeological features, including fish traps and clam gardens, and contemplate the interconnectedness of natural ecosystems and Haida subsistence and beliefs. Later, we have the chance to tour a sea lion rookery, learning more about these formidable creatures and their ecology and conservation. We cap off the day by sailing to Louscoone Inlet to anchor for the night.
Day 8 Today we travel to the ancient village of SGang Gwaay on Anthony Island. The village remained inhabited until approximately 1880, and in 1984 was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its globally significant cultural heritage. Here we find the remains of massive long houses, and a stunning grove of standing mortuary and Day memorial poles. We will embark on a guided tour of the village to learn about the traditional Haida way of 5 life and social systems. This morning we’re up early to catch low tide and explore the incredible marine biodiversity of the Day world-famous Burnaby Narrows. Using our kayaks and inflatable skiff, we follow one of our expedition 9 teams in snorkeling gear to check-out giant predatory On our final day, we get one last chance to sunflower stars, multi-coloured bats stars, massive experience the breathtaking Gwaii Haanas region, moon snails, decorator crabs, and nudibranchs (sea this time from the window of a floatplane. We slugs). Once the tide begins to rise, we return to the will take in a spectacular 50-minute flight back to Passing Cloud and continue our travels southward Sandspit, where our journey officially comes to an to Kunghit Island, traditional territory of the Kunghit end. Haida.
17 British Columbia’s Johnstone Strait & Blackfish Sound 6-days sailing with the spectacular marine mammal populations of Northern Vancouver Island One of the best places on the planet to observe killer whales in the wild
Discover Encounter Learn The incredibly rich Orcas, humpback About the fascinating ecosystem of this whales, dolphins, behaviours and wildlife hotspot porpoises, seals and communication of sea lions killer whales
18 Johnstone Strait & Blackfish Sound Whales By Sails
Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are world-famous for the killer whale (orca) populations that inhabit these waters. Each year, large numbers of killer whales congregate in this region to feed on migrating wild Pacific salmon and abundant populations of seals, dolphins and porpoises.
19 This 6-day sailing expedition aboard our classic schooner Passing Cloud allows us to observe, photograph and learn about killer whales, humpback whales, and many other marine mammals, as well as experience the marine wilderness of Northern Vancouver Island. Make sure to have your camera ready as we expect to witness many whales and dolphins as they hop, breach, tail slap, feed, and socialize. Traveling under sail at every opportunity, this expedition connects us to the stunning marine wildlife of this region and the ecosystems that support them.
6-days / 5-nights
2015 departures: Aug 5, 11, 17, 23
Price per person: $3200 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Port McNeill
What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Port Hardy
BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGO MARINE PROVINCIAL PARK
Sointula BLACKFISH BRITISH SOUND COLUMBIA Port McNeill Alert Bay
VANCOUVER Telegraph Cove VANCOUVER ISLAND JOHNSTONE STRAIT Robson Bight
20 Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound Thrilling experience, we enjoyed every minute, especially the wonderful immersion in the Outer Day Shores World. Life is all about 1 experience & learning and we go We start our expedition from the northern Vancouver away with much to think about. Island community of Port McNeill, where we board our floating home for the next 6-days, the schooner Hans Van De Sande and Sharon Sullivan Passing Cloud. After settling into our cabins and attending a comprehensive safety briefing, we set sail for Johnstone Strait. As we journey to our overnight anchorage, be sure to keep a sharp eye out for the many orcas and other whales that congregate in this region each summer.
Day 2
Today we are on the hunt to discover the region’s diverse marine wildlife, including killer whales and Pacific white-sided dolphins. We will spend most of the day observing the daily behaviours of the Northern Vancouver Island Resident killer whales that frequent this region during the summer months. We expect to encounter killer whales feeding, resting, socializing, travelling, breaching, spy hopping, or tail slapping. Following our day at sea, we set anchor for the evening and enjoy a casual shore walk on a nearby island, and discuss the photo-identification techniques used to monitor these fascinating creatures.
21 Day 3
This morning we travel to the outskirts of the Robson Bight Killer Whale Ecological Reserve in Johnstone Strait, a unique sanctuary for orca. We are likely to encounter a number of killer whales pods or family groups on route to visit the unique “rubbing beaches” found within the reserve. We’ll use our underwater hydrophone to listen to the vocalizations that killer whales use to communicate with one another and differentiate among family units. We follow that up by setting sail and cruising the nearby waters to the sounds of only wind and water moving around us.
Day 5
Today, our last full day on the water, we’ll have a number of options available to us. Depending on the interests of our group, we may decide to spend the day observing killer whales and humpback whales, sailing, sea kayaking, or walking along the beach. A beautiful forest walk to visit Eagle Eye, an observation platform where BC Park wardens monitor the movements of killer whales and visiting vessels are other possible activities for the day.
Day 4 This morning we’ll explore our scenic anchorage via sea kayak, zodiac tour, or shore excursion. We will then spend the rest of our morning observing and photographing the large numbers of humpback whales, Dall’s porpoises, and Pacific white-sided dolphins congregating in Blackfish Sound and Queen Charlotte Day Strait. In the afternoon, we visit the historic boardwalk community of Telegraph Cove and the Killer Whale 6 Interpretive Centre. This facility provides a wonderful opportunity to learn more about the biology, ecology, This morning we wake up early and set sail for our and conservation of killer whales and other marine last chance to spot more marine wildlife – perhaps mammals in this region. even some of the mammal-eating transient killer whales, a lone Minke whale, or a super-pod of Pacific white-sided dolphins! Once arriving back in Port McNeill, we disembark and say farewell to this spectacular region, with many fresh memories of our adventures on the open sea.
22 British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest 9-days searching for salmon, bears, whales, and wolves in the largest coastal temperate forest in the world One of National Geographic’s 20 places to see in 2014
Discover Encounter Learn Abundant wildlife in the Iconic bears and coastal How wild Pacific salmon largest coastal temperate temperate rainforests define the ecosystem forest in the world
23 British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest Salmon, Bears, Whales, and Wolves
The Great Bear Rainforest is one of the largest intact coastal temperate forests in the world. Extending from northern Vancouver Island to Alaska, and covering more than 70,000km2 (24,000mi2), this area is home to spectacular wildlife including whales and dolphins, bears and wolves, sea lions and sea otters. This 9-day expedition aboard our classic schooner, the Passing Cloud, gives us the chance to explore this beautiful ecosystem and learn how it depends so critically on wild Pacific salmon.
24 Kitimat We will have the opportunity to follow the salmon (Haida First Nation) life cycle, visit the First Nations communities of Bella Bella and Klemtu, encounter marine mammals on the open sea, and potentially catch a glimpse of the rare white Kermode or “Spirit” bear.
Our 9-day expedition through the Great Bear BRITISH Rainforest starts and ends in the Heiltsuk First Nation COLUMBIA community of Bella Bella. Travelling deep into the heart of the Great Bear, as far north as the Gitga’at Nation community of Hartley Bay, we circumnavigate Hartley Bay (Gitga’at First Nation) Princess Royal Island in search of salmon, bears, whales and wolves. VANCOUVER
9-days / 8-nights
2015 departures: May 22, 31, Sep 1, 10, 19, 28
Price per person: $5200 CAD PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND Departs from / Returns to: Bella Bella
What’s Included? Klemtu All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, (Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation) use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries. Bella Bella (Heiltsuk First Nation)
25 Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest
Day 1 Our adventure begins in the Heiltsuk First Nations community of Bella Bella, a short flight from Vancouver International Airport. Upon boarding our schooner Passing Cloud and settling into accommodations, we set sail and begin our journey north into the heart of Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest. As we slice through the waters of the Seaforth Channel we’ll be on the lookout for our first wildlife sightings - humpback whales, sea otters, elephant seals, and killer whales. Later in the afternoon, we set down our anchor in a small coastal estuary and go ashore for our first taste of the coastal temperate rainforest ecosystem.
It’s virtually impossible to find the adequate words to express my Day gratitude and wonder for such a 2 magical week. The fact that such Today gets started with an early morning visit to one natural beauty, such isolated of the rainforest estuaries, an enclosed body of water wilderness, still exists gives me with multiple rivers and streams running into it, to hope for our world. observe and photograph wildlife. After exploring this area for the morning, we continue our travels north, Megan McCaslin, Outer Shores Traveller potentially spotting humpback whales, dolphins, and porpoises. In the afternoon we visit our first major river system, where we find a comfortable spot to sit and wait to observe grizzly bears fishing for salmon.
Day 3
This morning we have breakfast while sailing north through the Princess Royal Channel, en route to Khutze Inlet, renowned for its towering granite cliffs, waterfalls, snow capped mountain peaks, and wildlife – especially grizzly bears. We’ll use our inflatable zodiac to travel deep into this coastal estuary ecosystem, which is an excellent habitat for spawning salmon, coastal grizzly bears, and wolves.
26 Day 4 We continue our exploration of Khutze Inlet with an early morning photography and wildlife expedition into the estuary via sea kayak. Next, we head back aboard Passing Cloud and travel north in search of the iconic spirit (or Kermode) bear, which are actually black bears with a rare gene that produces completely white fur. After we anchor in Bishop Bay Marine Park for the evening, we head ashore to enjoy a soak in one of the natural hot springs in the area. Day Day 7 5 Today we hope to catch a glimpse of the coastal wolves that inhabit the Great Bear Rainforest. We Today we visit the bear-viewing stands operated by plan to visit small coastal streams in this region, the Gitga’at First Nation, where we’ll have an excellent surrounded by ancient spruce and cedar trees, which chance of observing spirit bears and black bears provide ideal habitats for wolves and bears. We also fishing for salmon in a small coastal stream. We have time to explore, photograph, and view wildlife spend the majority of the day quietly observing and in this area via sea kayaks, inflatable boat, and shore photographing the salmon, bears, and other wildlife excursions. from the viewing stands at the edge of the stream. Later this afternoon, we travel a short distance to our overnight anchorage as we begin our southward Day journey along the west side of Princess Royal Island. 8 This morning we pass through Myers Narrows en route to the Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation community of Klemtu. We are welcomed to this remote coastal community with a walking tour and a guided visit of their traditional Big House. In the afternoon we sail south through Finlayson Channel and Milbanke Sound, getting to experience the outer coast before anchoring overnight in the vicinity of Seaforth Channel, near Bella Bella.
Day 6 Travelling south into Camano Sound, we spend the morning on the lookout for humpback, fin, and killer Day whales that congregate here each summer and fall. 9 Weather and time permitting, we’ll go ashore to visit whale researchers who live in the area year round As we travel the short distance to Bella Bella this and track the whales in this region. In the afternoon, morning we hope for last minute wildlife sightings, we spend our time sailing through this stunning area and enjoy the pristine landscapes and seascapes of before anchoring for the night in Laredo Inlet. the Great Bear Rainforest. Once we arrive, we say our farewells to the Great Bear Rainforest before disembarking and heading to the airport.
27 British Columbia’s Gulf Islands National Park 5-days of sailing and exploring the nature and cultures of the Salish Sea Experience the Mediterranean climate of this unique island archipelago
Discover Encounter Learn The marine wilderness of Seals, sea lions, porpoises, How the Coast Salish First BC’s Southern Gulf Islands ravens and eagles Nations lived among these Archipelago islands for thousands of years
28 British Columbia’s Gulf Islands National Park Discover the Salish Sea
For thousands of years Coast Salish First Nations have called this collection of islands and inlets located between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia home. Today, the Salish Sea draws visitors for its unique Mediterranean climate and marine and land ecosystems teeming with wildlife that includes seabirds, seals, sea lions, humpback whales, orcas, porpoises, diverse intertidal life, and rare plant communities. The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve was established in 2003 to safeguard this ecologically and culturally sensitive region.
29 This expedition aboard our classic wooden schooner Passing Cloud provides the opportunity to explore, Nanaimo photograph, and experience the many islands, beaches and forests, fascinating ecology, and cultural and natural history of this region.
5-days / 4-nights
2015 departures: Oct 12, 17, 23
Price per person: $2400 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Port Sidney
VANCOUVER ISLAND What’s Included? All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees, use of onboard gear and resources, rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after Sidney BRITISH COLUMBIA the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
VANCOUVER
Victoria
30 Sample Itinerary: British Columbia’s Gulf Islands National Park
Day I have searched the globe 1 for authentic trips to build Our adventure begins at Port Sidney Marina, located inspiration, appreciation, and a just a short walk from the charming seaside town of sense that we are all connected. Sidney, British Columbia, and less than 10 km from Victoria International Airport. Upon arriving and Outer Shores and Passing Cloud boarding our schooner, Passing Cloud, we set sail gave this to our family. for the Salish Sea, the network of coastal waterways named for the Coast Salish First Nations who used the Melissa Hills, Outer Shores Traveller waterways as vital trade routes and as an important source for food. As we make our way through the intricate waterways, we are keenly on the lookout for the pods of salmon-eating orcas (killer whales) that reside here.
Day 2
This morning, we start with a beach and forest walk on Russell Island. Part of the National Park Reserve, this island was once a First Nations village and in the 1880s was settled by Hawaiian immigrants. We explore the island’s cliffs, coves and sand beaches, and stroll through the Douglas fir and arbutus – a tall broadleaf evergreen tree – forest. In the afternoon, we set sail for Haro Strait, a major entrance point for the Fraser River salmon run, where we search for whales, porpoises and seabirds.
31 Day 3
Today we explore the intriguing intertidal ecosystems and beaches on Tumbo Island. The island’s rich and historic past has included fur farming, timber harvesting and coal mining, but today it is mainly forested with old growth Douglas firs and Garry oak meadows. Historically, Coast Salish First Nations found safe harbour on Tumbo Island during their journeys across the strait and while hand trolling for fish offshore. It remains an important spiritual site to this day. In the afternoon, we have a unique opportunity to observe a sea lion haul-out, where hundreds of these sea mammals take to the rocky shore, as Passing Cloud sails past Tumbo Island’s East Point.
Day 4 Our day begins with a hike through the regenerating Garry oak and arbutus forest on the mountainous Saturna Island, leading to an unspoiled view of Narvaez Bay. In the afternoon, we take advantage of our sea kayaks and paddle along the quiet shoreline, while also having time for a beach walk and zodiac tour of the island’s surrounding waters. Later, we raise all sails and enjoy cruising gracefully through Boundary Passage and Haro Strait, on the look out for southern resident killer whales, Dall’s porpoises, and other marine mammals and seabirds. Our overnight anchorage is located on Pender Island.
Day 5
On the final day of our expedition, after one more delicious breakfast, we make our way back to Port Sidney to say our farewells and disembark by late morning.
32 Coastal Photography Tour in Pacific Rim National Park 5-days building and honing your photography skills while immersed in pristine coastal wilderness With exploration of island archipelagos and ancient coastal rainforests
Discover Photograph Learn Marine wilderness of Bears, whales, sea otters, Strategies for Vancouver Island’s eagles, tidepools, forests, photographing coastal west coast and seabirds wildlife and environments
33 Coastal Photography Tour 2015 Pacific Rim National Park
During our 2015 Photo Tour in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, living and travelling aboard the schooner Passing Cloud, and isolated from all the distractions of shore-bound life, you’ll have the opportunity to focus on taking your photography to the next level. Accommodations, delicious food, and transportation to stunning photo destinations are all included, leaving you free to concentrate on capturing your vision of this pristine coastal wilderness.
34 BRITISH COLUMBIA Our floating classroom for this photo tour is the schooner Passing Cloud, and our playground is CLAYOQUOT the Broken Group Islands of Pacific Rim National SOUND
Park Reserve. This all-inclusive photography VANCOUVER adventure overlays discussion-based workshops, photo reviews, and one-on-one guidance upon the islands, beaches, old-growth rainforests, Port Alberni rocky intertidal zones, kelp forest communities, estuaries and fiords of this diverse region.
VANCOUVER ISLAND 5-days / 4-nights Tofino
2015 departures: April 21
Price per person: $2600 CAD BARKLEY SOUND Departs from / Returns to: Ucluelet Ucluelet
BROKEN GROUP ISLANDS UNIT PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL What’s Included? PARK RESERVE
All meals, accommodation, transportation, user Bamfield fees, use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber boots. What’s not included? 5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
35 Sample Itinerary: Coastal Photography Tour 2015
Please note that our goal is to put you in the ideal photographic location for the prevailing light, tide, and wildlife conditions as much as possible and so it’s impossible to provide a fixed itinerary. That being said, the following sample itinerary will give you an idea of our expected daily flow.
Pre- Tour
Participants arrive today in Ucluelet and spend the night at accommodations of your choice. Suggested sights/activities for you here include the Ucluelet Aquarium, a forest walk to Amphitrite Point Lighthouse, or a walk along Long Beach. We’ll have an optional meet and greet with our instructor and the ship’s captain at 7:00 PM at a location to be determined.
I walked away from the tour as a more complete photographer with a much better grasp of camera technology and all the subtle nuances involved in taking more compelling photos. I also have a greater appreciation for the history of the area, and Day the importance of the diverse 1 ecosystem. Our tour officially begins at 10:00 AM when participants board the Passing Cloud. After meeting the crew and a Chris Botting, Outer Shores Traveller safety briefing, our photographic adventures begin as we leave the dock and immediately encounter myriad photographic opportunities: coastal fishing community, all manner of vessels, seals, sea lions, bald eagles, and rugged seascapes. After lunch we’ll have our first discussion-based sessions: Introduction to Coastal Photography and Rainforest Photography. With this information fresh in our minds, we’ll embark upon our first shore excursion via zodiac and put our new skills and strategies to work. Afterwards we’ll enjoy our first fabulous dinner aboardPassing Cloud, finishing in time to enjoy the golden evening light, either back on shore for from the foredeck. We’ll end the day in Passing Cloud’s beautiful main salon, with time to work on images, receive post-processing help, and socialize, perhaps with a glass of wine in hand.
36 Day 2
For those who choose to accept this mission, today starts with James Thompson’s famous “Dawn Patrol”, with a quick snack and fresh coffee in hand. Don’t worry, if you decide in favour of those extra hours of sleep, we’ll all rendezvous for second breakfast, following by our daily planning session and today’s topic: Coastal Wildlife. During this time Passing Cloud will be moving us towards our next photographic destination, Wouwer Island. We’ll go for a zodiac excursion here, on the lookout for the Steller sea lions known to frequent this area, and then back to the ship for lunch. Early afternoon is a good time for fitting in a nap, sorting and processing photos, and/or preparing for our afternoon expedition, during which we’ll sail the waters of Imperial Eagle Channel, on the lookout for whales, dolphins, and porpoises. Our evening sunset session will be shore-based at our overnight anchorage, Effingham Island. Time permitting, we’ll end the day with an optional image critique in which participants submit between one and three images shot during the tour for constructive review by the group.
Day Day 3 4
As with every morning, “Dawn Patrol” today is We have a very good low tide this morning and so available but certainly not mandatory, followed everyone is up for this morning’s photo session by breakfast, our planning session, and today’s at Wouwer Island. After another scrumptious hot discussion topic: Coastal Composition. Our shooting breakfast and coffee on the aft deck, we meet session this morning will take place on Benson Island, for our planning session and today’s discussion or “C’isaa”, birthplace and ancient village site of the topic: Intertidal/Tidepool Techniques. This is a fun Tseshaht First Nation. At this remarkable island, we’ll topic with some tricks for using reflective light and have a wide range of photographic opportunities time-lapse techniques. Because Wouwer offers available to us, including beaches, old-growth everything from sea lions to forests to tidepools, rainforests, tidepools, and wildlife. After lunch and we’ll spend our second morning session here before afternoon free time, we gear up for photographing going sailing during and after lunch. The location black bears in a nearby coastal estuary. Depending and focus of this afternoon’s photography session on tides and wildlife sightings, we may return to the will be up to the group, this being the last full day of estuary after dinner, or set up for another spectacular the tour. We may return to the estuaries for more west coast sunset on a nearby island. Image critique, bear photography, go sailing in search of whales and reviews, or post-processing anyone? Or perhaps just sea otters, or visit an unexplored beach or ancient desert and time for sorting photos. village site. After dinner today, we finish with time for sorting and processing in preparation for our final group photo critique session and our version of the “People’s Choice Awards” (don’t worry, fun and prizes for all!).
Day 5
Looking to squeeze every last drop out of our expedition, at least some of us will be up for Dawn Patrol (right JT?), and others will enjoy a leisurely morning coffee, or perhaps quietly explore our anchorage via sea kayak. As we make our way back to Ucluelet for our 10:00 AM disembarkation, we’ll keep a sharp look out for more marine mammals, seabirds, or coastal scenics for that last perfect shot.
37 FAQ: Coastal Photography Tour 2015
Who should take this tour? Anyone with an interest in improving their technical and artistic photographic skills in a stunning coastal wilderness setting.
What is the nature of this tour? What kind of photo tour is it? This tour has three main components: (1) living and travelling aboard a beautiful wooden schooner, participants are completely immersed in a pristine coastal wilderness environment, providing unlimited photographic opportunities; (2) all logistics are completely taken care of for you, including accommodation, transportation, and wonderful chef-prepared meals…it’s easy! And (3) our instructor and photography expert focuses on helping you build your photographic toolbox by focusing on a range of photographic challenges/opportunities including marine wildlife, coastal rainforests, the intertidal zone, coastal composition, and more. Frequent, shooting sessions, discussion-based workshops, one-on-one help, and group image reviews are hallmarks of this tour. Ultimately, this is your holiday and we want it to be fun and informative for you.
What will I get to photograph? We endeavour to expose participants to all the major features of our wild west coast: the open ocean, the fascinating intertidal zone, unspoiled soaring coastal old growth rainforests, and a wide array of wildlife including bears, eagles, whales, sea lions, seals and a myriad of other birdlife all set against the stunning backdrop of the Vancouver Island Mountain Range. We occasionally also run into orca, sea otters, dolphins, porpoises and wolves.
How physically fit should I be? You should be able to walk short distances over somewhat uneven terrain carrying your camera gear.
What is the Instructor to Participant Ratio? How many crew will be on board? There will be a maximum of 6 participants on the tour, and one instructor. Our ship’s crew will consist of captain (also a PhD in marine biology), mate/deckhand, and chef.
What camera gear should I bring? Short answer? Everything! The wider the range of focal lengths available to you, the more photographic choices you have. Another essential piece of equipment is a tripod sturdy enough to bear the weight of your camera plus largest lens. Other useful items include a polarizing filter, spare batteries, plenty of storage media, and a flash or reflector.
I am a single traveler. Can I have a cabin to myself or do I have to share with someone else? We do encourage spouses or close friends to join this tour together and share a cabin. However, given the arrangement of the cabins and a mixture of friends/couples and single travelers, we typically can accommodate single travellers in a cabin to themselves.
38 FAQ: Coastal Photography Tour 2015 (Continued)
How do I get there? The tour departs aboard the schooner Passing Cloud from the picturesque fishing village of Ucluelet, on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. A beautiful 4 hr drive from Victoria, both Tofino and Ucluelet are well served by ground transport from Victoria and Nanaimo (see www. tofinobus.com). Another option is to fly directly to Tofino from Vancouver International Airport (YVR) (visit www.kdair.com or www.flyorcaair.com).
What will the weather be like? Spending a week on the west coast in April you will likely encounter a little bit of everything. Sun, wind, and rain are often encountered even within a single day as weather fronts from the open Pacific Ocean pass by. You can expect daytime temperatures to be between 10 and 15 degrees Celsius.
What clothing should I bring? You will be provided with a detailed packing list well in advance of the tour; however, you’ll need to be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions.
How should I protect my camera gear? While rain can easily be wiped off, and many higher end cameras are well weather sealed, salty sea spray can be very corrosive to sensitive electronics. A simple shower cap will keep the worst of the weather at bay, but you may want to consider purchasing more sophisticated and robust weather protection. See James Thompson’s Outer Shores Blog post “It IS a rainforest after all” for more details (www.outershores.ca/2013/05/it-is-a-rainforest- after-all/).
Will I be able to charge my camera batteries and laptop? Yes, the ship has several AC power outlets with the standard North American type plug sockets.
How much on board storage is available? There are several large drawers and a small hanging locker in each stateroom, perfect for all your clothing, jackets and some gear. A waterproof tote, securely stored outside on deck will be provided for each participant also.
Should I bring my laptop computer? Yes! Although not mandatory, we will be critiquing our work during the trip and providing on-the-fly post-processing tips. There will be downtime each day during which you can work on your images.
How do I book this tour? To reserve you berth on this tour we request that you provide a $1000 CAD deposit that is fully refundable until 90 days prior to your departure date. At this time your balance becomes due in full, and payments becomes non-refundable. If you have to cancel inside of 90 days, we will endeavour to find a replacement participant for you, or you can transfer your payment to one of our other expeditions in the same or following year.
39 Thank you for making every day an adventure and opportunity to learn and enjoy this wonderful coast and all it has to offer. A great crew and a great trip.
Lynn and Dave Haggarty, Outer Shores Travellers
40 The beauty and gentleness of the whole trip takes you away from the crazy pace of the world. The peace stays with you.
George Brinkman, Outer Shores Traveller
41 If you have any questions about our 360 B Harbour Road expeditions, or a specific detail about the Victoria, British Columbia expedition you have booked, please let V9A 3S1, Canada us know by phone or visit our website for more information. [email protected]
Photo Credits: James Thompson, Ryan Flett, Gem 1-855-714-7233 (Toll Free in North America) Salsberg, Tavish Campbell, and Russell Markel. 1-250-220-2311 (Local and International)
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