TH E
KAN SAS PU B LI S H I N G HO U SE ,
A AN A TOPE S S . K , K
nl Awa o a Ka nsas Home The O y rd t .
Th e un de rS 1gn e d having e x amine d th e pro duCt h e re n es cri e re s e ctf reco mme n s th e i d b d , p ully d same to th e Un ite d State s C e nte nnial Co mmiss i o n fo r awar fo r th e f wi n re as o ns vi z s e e n o o g , " d , ll A v re o o re are fo r s ow Th e C u t i s as e q ui b k , p p d h . t t n n d i n fa e ss f ri n e an d n i g a r g . ully p t d , bi d ul ultl V Z GUSTA S EIT . APPROVA L or GROUP J UDGES ( Signature of J udge . ) M " RI S I LC O . . JA E M . W . H . T B AN W R O L Y O . H PI . ED A D C N E . C . C A N
ru e o f h e re co r A t co py t d . R N L E S . F A CI A WA K R , i B C h ef of ureau of Awards.
"S EAL - 1 OSHORN D re ctor- e ne ra A . T . G , i G l . L BELL e cre ar . re s e n L S . . . J . . CAMP , t y J R HAW EY , P id t
RODU N ONS N L THE OS EL O UR E P CI G C TA T Y M T AB RATE , ACC AT
AN D R S BL N - OO OR NO N TO THE ART A TI TIC A K B K W K K W . BOOK AN D PAMPHLET PRINTING EQUAL TO THE BEST I N T HE N R COU T Y . L ST E R N N ONDS O S AN D NE L REA E AT P I TI G, B , M RTGAGE , GE RA
OB R N NG S LL N EOUS ND N I N S P L D I STYL J P I TI AND MI CE A BI I G EN D E .
HE NN F K N T A ALS O A SAS .
nar o f an s n 6 1 r ce Diéti o K sas . . A y Mu li , 9 pp , p i
’ ELTE S P OVED S OOL RE O DS F R IM R CH C R .
o r e s cr o n n e x a e F see g . d ipti , t p
THE ED A I N L LENDAR UC T O A C A .
r ce we n - five ce n s e r an n m P i , t ty t p u .
A KAN AN A D I S O BY ENT S . BR A , PR
r ce And o e r i ca o ns P i , 5 . th publ ti .
re ss E M RT Add , G O . W . A I N . C OUNTY AND DISTRIC T
O FFIC IAL S C H OOL REC ORD BOOKS .
A ELTER BY PROF. S . . F .
' ' tafe u eri nten den t P élze l nsfru elzon Approved by tne S S p qf n .
N ENDEN ’ L DE N 1 O N Y S E I S O I S I IO OO . . C U T UP R T T FFIC A CR PT B K This bo o k con tains q uadruple to wnship se ctio nal maps fo r e ve ry to wn ship i n th e county ; also gi ving a plat an d th e co mple te b oundary - lin e des criptio n o f e ac sc oo s r c i n th e co n as we as a se ara e a an d es cr o n o f h h l di t i t u ty , ll p t pl t d ipti e ac an d e e r c an e o f o n ar n e s h v y h g b u d y li . N E N END N ’ L R E 2 THE O S S O S . . C U TY UP RI T E T FFICIA EGI T R s o o c o n a ns fo rms fo r a co m e e s o ri ca s a i s ca an d nanc a Thi b k t i pl t hi t l , t t ti l fi i l re co r of e e r s c oo s r c i n th e co n an d e n a e s th e o n Su e ri n d v y h l di t i t u ty , bl C u ty p te n de n t at a glan ce to d e te rmine th e co ndition o f any o ne o r all o f th e school s r c s di t i t . HE DIS LE ’ O I L RD T S O OO . 3 . TRICT C RK FF CIA REC B K s o o co n a ns fo rms w c e x th e s o r th e s a s ca and finan Thi b k t i hi h hibit hi t y, t ti ti l f h e r f r r n h f m ci al co nd o n o t s c o o t ears at a a ce . T e o r s are e as iti di t i t f y y , gl ily n e rs o o e w e a o r and co n fo rm e xac to th e fo rms o f th e u d t d , k pt ith littl l b , tly n e i n e n e n County a d State Sup r t d t. HE DIS E S E ’ S O I L E D T O O . 4 . TRICT TR A UR R FFIC A R C R B OK This b o ok contai ns fo rms fo r a simple an d co mpl e te re co rd o f all th e fi nan cial ran sac o ns o f th e sc o o s r c an d a so fo rms fo r a co n e nse nanci a t ti h l di t i t , l d d fi l e o r to th e ann ho l m eti n as re re law I t c n i n fo m fo r ual sc o e . o a s r s r p t g, q ui d by t e xhibiti ng at a glan ce th e comparative finan cial co nditi o n of th e district fo r r forty yea s. E ' S S OOL AN D L SS E S ER 5 . THE T ACHER CH C A R GI T . i s oo i s arran e o n a n e w an and con a ns fo rms fo r a e n ance an d Thi b k g d pl , t tt d
de o rtme . . t an d sc o ars i n e ac s rs e i n th e sc o o wi a e rm , h h h p l ip h tudy pu u d h l , t t mm fo r th e same I t con a ns fo rms f r n is ri c c s ar . o gra g s ho o s an d fo r u y t i di d t t l , ’ th e e ac h e r s co m e e re o r to th e D s r c e r as re i re law Th e k . T pl t p t i t i t Cl , q u d by oo can b e se fo r a e n ance an d e o r me n o n o r s m as a c ass re is b k u d tt d d p t t ly, i ply l g e i n ra e sc oo w o th e e as n co n e n e n c t r a g h , h e . , d d l it ut l t i v i 6 O D E OO S FOR DIS O E S . R R B K TRICT FFIC R .
s oo i s ma e i n firs t- c as s s e oo s n m e re an d 6 co ns e Thi b k d l tyl . B k u b d 3 , 4, 5 titut a com e e se t fo r a s c oo s r c as ro i e law pl t h l di t i t, p v d d by . EL E ’ S O E L SS E O D 7 . F T R P CK T C A R C R .
i s i s th e mo s co n e n e n a o r- sa n re co r e e s e It co n a ns Th t v i t l b vi g d v r publi h d . t i s e no an d w sa e a e ac e r mo re an i ts a e i n ime e ac e rm ju t ugh , ill v T h th v lu t h t .
Th e a o e o oks a re e x e c e i n th e n e s s e o f r n ng an d n ng and b v b ut d fi t tyl p i ti bi di , no e xpe nse h as b e e n s pare d to make the m th e che ape st and th e be st e ve r p re
s e n e to th e c - sc o o o f c a o f n t d publi h l fi i ls Ka sas . G E O W M A R T I N ,
ansas s n o se OP K . K Publi hi g H u , T E A C OMP LI MEN TS O F
E ENTI S O B L L PR . N .
A KAN SAN AB OAD R .
P P ’ I KE O F I KE S PEAK.
THE W D A S H ORL C OOL .
N A K N SA AB RO D .
N B E P E TI O . N S L L R .
S E C O N D E D I T I O N
T O F EK A K A N S A , S
E W. M R IN G O. AN S S PUB L SHIN H A T , K A I G OUSE . 1 7 8 8 . M C “ ?
E T R acco r n to act of on re ss i n th e e a 1 8 8 N E ED di g C g , y r 7 , by
N OBL L PRENr I s E . ,
In th e of ce of th e L rar an of on re ss at as n on . fi ib i C g , W hi gt FAT Y PRE O R .
s th e e Th e letters collected in thi volume, under general titl
A K NS N ABRO D e e th e T Commonwealth of A A A , app ar d in opeka
h m of 187 during t e summer and autu n 7 . ’ Th e e tc I OF P S P was e To sk h, P KE IKE EAK, first d livered at
a Fe 19th 1 877 e e of Ka sas pek , bruary , ; und r the patronag the n
H oc e A e th e c e e o S e S . tat istorical i ty ft rward , in h rful m nth of
a c th e o th e Co o c o M r h , auth r went around untry with his pr du ti n “ ” I n t was e e c ed th e o of a e . t o in f rm lectur was as funny as xp t ,
d e e e s I t n an as e e o w cc s . o w a , a l ctur , was not an v r h lming su p pe ars for th e first time in print ; an d may it find more re aders
e a s than it e ver did h rer .
TH E RLD SC HOOL o a o e ce WO A , riginally delivered as c mm n
e - a e ss e th e Ka s S a e A c a C o e e m nt day ddr befor nsa t t gri ultur l ll g , Was published in pamphle t form by orde r of th e Board o f Rege nts
a s u o s e e e e a e of th t in tit ti n, and hortly aft r its d liv ry it app r d in
a K e s I t e e e a th e sever l ansas newspap r . is b li v d th t pamphle ts
e e s e e s e an d a e and n wspap r have all b en us d up by thi tim , th t ther
eo e wh o e e th e e s s a e o are p pl will w lcom addr s in a pre erv bl f rm . N L P . . . TOP Fe 18 8 EKA, bruary , 7 . C O NTENTS .
A KANS AN AB ROAD Fro m Sh o re to Sho re
So me i rs m re ss o ns F t, I p i
V e r Old n an y E gl d . Old Sh re wsbury Wo rce ste r
Stratfo rd - o n - Avon Warwick an d i ts Cas tle So me thing Ab out Lo ndo n M o re Ab out Lo ndo n Pa ris an d th e P arisi an s Th e Sights o f Pa ris Swi ss Days
B rus s els and i ts Battle - Fi eld An t we rp an d i ts C ath e dral Lo n do n e i si te R v d . R ural Engl an d Fi rs t Ho u rs i n S co tlan d Th e Land o f Burns M e mo rie s o f S co tlan d A Gli mpse of Ulste r
’ PI KE O F PI K E S PEAK
T H E WO RLD A S C H OOL AD A KAN SA N A B RO .
T H RE FROM SHORE O S O .
OMING down town in New York on the morning of July
4th 1 877 e was i , , at an early hour, th re not much bunt ng
e o r c s e visible flying from r sidences publi building , but wh n the
e c a o o e pier was r a hed from which the h rb r c uld be survey d, a dif
E as a ferent sight was prese nted . verything afloat w g y with the
A a o a . red , white and blue . ship is always n ti n l It is a fragment
I n s c ha of the co untry floating out to sea . the mo t se luded rbor of
s e th e a the most remote land , or in the mid t of oc an, h il is always “ ” o e e Th e A e ca S pr mptly r spond d to with m ri n ship, John mith,
“ ” e th e e and the old gridiron gracefully wav s same r ply .
’ But it is severe on an American s feelings to cross to Jersey
’ i fla C ty on such a morning, with his country s g waving every
e a s I t wher , and take pass ge on a Briti h ship . was doubly trying for one among whose childish recolle ctions was numbe re d the
of a C a c wh o re launch the m gnificent ollins ste mer Balti , and membered the pride with which Americans looked on th e C o llins h t e e . . line, now swept from oc an But there was no help for it
Our e h as e o too c or too — I marin b en pr tected mu h , little do not A 6 A KANSAN A ROAD B . pretend to know which ; and if you wish to go abroad now from
Ne a o w York, you must do so under the sh d w of a foreign flag .
Th e h e r Bothnia lay at pier, long and huge and black, the
- C t latest success in ship building of the house of unard , for fif y
u e T i t — fif years the most successf l of ship own rs . hink of ty years
n se a s L sendi g ships to , and never yet with a vessel lo t " uck is
a And b - - nowhere in comp rison with this . , y the way, if you wish
E e C to go to ngland you had bett r embark on a unarder . You
h e e e a get t re ten days earli r, at l st, by the operation , for when you
’ c Ne w are B I step on de k in York you in Great ritain already . t s
h Th e e i t e . all Brit sh, from keel up massiven ss and plainness of
th e - - everything about you , ponderous wood work and brass work,
e s a are a utterly d stitute of ornament, how you th t you mong people “ ” mmer h o flu . w are all for solidity, and opposed to y, you know f C L . r ike ship , like man Whether the o fice s of the unard
th e C ships are built on lyde for the use of the company, I can h . T e not say, but I am inclined to think so commander of the
McMi ckan e a e a C a . Bothni , pt , a relative perhaps of the vet r n hot l
- ec th e Te fft Ho was navigator who walks the quarter d k of use ,
a e e a b standing bout wh n I r ched the pier, and various su ordinates
T o e were scatte red around . hey lo k d enough alike to be cousins
ff red- a e s w h u and big, blu , f ced f llow , it a width of sho lder a cir cumfe re nce of abdomen fearful fo r a small passenge r to con tem
All C a o plate . of course wore the un rd uniform , of s lid dark blue,
o and not unlike that of our naval office rs . I do not supp se a can
n f e . non ball could knock o e o these officers ov r Yet, with all
m s ti flllike o s e not the ir a l ok , th y are bad fellows, and certainly
e they know their busin ss .
’ o c c . T We were to start at ten lo k , but we did not here was a H E 7 FROM SH ORE TO S OR .
d great crowd of passengers to embark, and no end, it seeme , of
was . I n baggage, and there hurrying to and fro the meantime, havi ng nothing else to do, I wondered whether the Bothnia pro “ ” F . I n a posed to do anything about the ourth time she did . B ng "
th e m went a gun , then another, and white and cri son and azure of the American ensign rose to the fore, and long lines of gay colored flags commenced rising higher and higher, creeping over the ends of the yards to the mast- heads until they forme d three
f e h lo ty arches of flags , and the gr at Bot nia was dressed like a
h w T e deck was cro ded with passengers and their friends, but
’ at last the bell rang impatiently as a signal for th e land s - people — ’ to go ashore ; and then the kissing but it s of no use for one
t Th e as man to try to describe every hing . deck w cleared of all
s f save tho e who were to . go, a tug commenced pu fing and laboring
an d so mewhere about, , backing nearly across the river, the huge
as i mass swung slowly around, and just her prow faced seaward t
F A a was noon on the ourth of July . fl sh broke from the dark
A - of- as side of an merican man war lying in the stream, there w a ff d pu of smoke and a crash, then came another tongue of fire an
o C n cloud of sm ke from the dark ports of astle William , and the
o n th e bo m of a gun , and, looki g down the harbor, a cloud of N was e o . And smoke se n rising about the f rts at the arrows so, greeted by the joyful guns announcing the l Olst anniversary of
A I e e . merican nd p ndence, the Bothnia went to sea
I n ot n am goi g to give a journal of the voyage . It was as uneventful as a trip from the corner of Sixth and Kan sas avenues
N h e o e n as d T . T w a to orth opeka c a , y after day, as calm as a
T e was duck pond . her no rolling, no tumbling about, and the A KAN AN A D 8 S BROA .
n otes which this author had prepared in advance , describing the
- e T horrors of sea sickness, prov d of no use . here was little of it
n and f - o board, the few suf erers retired to their state rooms and there remained . Among three hundred passengers all sorts of people were to
No s be found . very di tinguished people, however, sailed in the
A . n T was . Bothnia . here Mr bram S Hewitt, looki g round
n shouldered and haggard after his tremendous exertio s for Mr . H T e . S amuel J . ilden ; and ther was Mrs ewitt, a daughter of Peter H C ooper, and Miss ewitt, a nice girl who played very well on the
He banjo . There was Mr . Joseph Seligman , a portly old brew cf
’ wh o was n benevolent aspect, once refused admission to Mr . Hilto s
was a hotel at Saratoga, whereat there a gre t row ; there was a big C C R fellow named orbin, said to be a South arolina epublican
was . N politician of eminence ; there Mr George Jones, of the ew
Times York , whom nearly everybody on board supposed till the last moment was a Scotchman return ing to his native land ; and
l A. T f was C o . C . S . . O there hambers, U , going to urkey course, “ ” somebody formerly of Kansas had to be on hand "the repre
A L L e n ati e . . . e se t v this time was Gen , formerly of Doniphan
o Ka as e county, and kn wn to all old ns citiz ns and soldiers .
Antipathies and friendships are forme d very readily on ship
a h e at e l . T board, and last for the voy ge association tabl usua ly At ” lays the foundation for acquaintance . our end of our table
R Hemi n ra C t K was Mr . obert g y, of oving on, entucky, a brother
Hemi n ra L of Judge g y, formerly of eavenworth, and with him
Mi nti e Hemi n ra T his daughter, Miss g y. here was a fine straight
. R German , with a white mustache and imperial, Mr George itter,
’ C who of Vera ruz, Mexico, from over thirty years residence in H E 9 FROM SH ORE TO S OR .
e t that country, intersp rsed with many trips to all par s of the
n n world, had acquired the la guages and the graces of half a doze
H R E s peoples . To err itter, with his good stories, told in ngli h,
e F S n interspers d with rench , panish and German , the undersig ed, “ ”
C . and the members of the late lub Mexique, will always feel
as indebted, and especially the member known in the society “ ” K s T e e . Mr. an as . h n ther was Mr Jolly, a Scotchman, from
T e - on ampico, M xico, the most successful conundrum maker
was F e a T n board ; then there the itzg rald f mily, from oro to, ” douce honest people ; and occasionally there was talk from a
S wh o the young lady, born in witzerland, had lived long in
C R wh o was n . province of ourland, ussia, and voyaging to Swede h A n . T e n was s I have said, the voyage was u eventful ocea
a c as quite t me . O c ionally a whale spouted ; occasionally a lot of porpoises gamboled about the ship ; occasionally a sailing vessel
f b and came into sight and aded out of it, or a steamer glided y
as T that w all . here were five meals a day, and some people de
ured was m vo all of them ; there a s all library, but reading at sea d not . T e s an e is a success hey got up conc rt in the saloon , ther
A to was divine service on Sunday . ccording the regulations of E r th e . r the C una d line, the captain read piscopal service I hea d the Queen and the Prince and Princess of Wales prayed for for the first time ; a petition was also inserte d for the President of the
.
St An A fo - n re United ates . merican preacher llowed, a good atu d
n l n wh o o t t old ge t ema , seemed desir us of praising every hing Bri i sh an d h o n n , w , figuratively speaking, took a seat betwee the hi d legs of the British lion and wrapped the tail of that noble beast
o ab ut his neck .
b e n It was to only ten days at sea, but we longed for la d . I
l n f n shal not soo orget when I saw it agai . 1 A KAN AN A ROAD 0 S B .
th e 13 —i n It was on the morning of th of July the early, misty m L saw - orning. ooking afar we something like a low lying cloud . T T hey said it was Ireland . hen a little boat came dancing across “ ” C P s T was the waves with ork ilot on her sail . hen there some thing ahead that looked like a ship, but it did not move ; the mist came down and shut it out, then lifted again, and there, like
was Fastnet a great white uplifted finger, lighthouse standing on T its gray rock in the midst of the waves . hen the curtain of mist
e e was uplifted ev rywhere, and w glided along in full sight of the
c e e e s bold shores, purple and gray, r sted with the gr n field , bright “ So e Old . w indeed as any emerald , of Ireland passed the bold ” H K off ead of insale, and the entrance of Queenstown harbor
o the ponder us engines of the Bothnia, for the first time in nine
A was days, stood still . gain we heard guns, but this time it the sullen roar of British cann on from the forts on th e dark heights
’ a A off at the h rbor s mouth . tender came and took some passen gers and the mail . We could see little of Queenstown , and I
I s remembered little of it, save that here is buried an obscure ri h
“ The clergyman , whose little poem , Burial of Sir John Moore,
s has stirred the heart of two nations .
Th e e e off n e e a tend r mov d , and the great e gin s h ved and
Th e e o s a throbbed again . n xt day at no n we saw a fore t of m sts ; great docks ; miles of frowning warehouses ; giant steamers plow
fro e ing to and , verywhere the marks of boundless wealth, iron
e e c a c s e — courage, immens m h ni al kill, tir less industry this was
L o — s E iverpo l thi was ngland . SOME FIRST IMPRESSIONS .
T is a solemn thing fo r a Kansas man to land in Liverpool
C o i on a rainy day . oming from an pen country full of br ght
o s ness and lit up by a cl udless sun , the bignes and blackness, the i e L oo i s We - nn r and outer darkness of iverp l ll nigh appalling. A
i e a turbid river, foam ng and tossing lik the sea ; ste mers black as m low- l e idnight plowing to and fro ; miles of ying war houses, their slate roofs gleaming dimly in the rain ; spires and chi mneys loomI ng up spectrally in the mist ; docks that se e m the work of
’ s as e e giants, skirting the tream far as the y can reach ; ships mas ts like the trees of a girdled forest ; ship - yards a maze of — timbers ; these are the outlines of Liverpool as seen from the
’ steamer s deck .
Th e A c meri an republican realizes, too, that he has, in our “ e e Th e parlance, strue a new sort of gov rnm nt . tugs that “ K ” circle around bear such names as the British ing, the
“ ” “ ” Queen the Royal George an d the British lion ramps , , — everywhere and in every color and attitude with his head and t o e e on o e ail up, and with b th those extr miti s down ; f ur l gs, and t n e c wo legs ; havi g his everlasting controv rsy with the uni orn , or “ ” He e a going it alone . can be spr ad out in more sh pes than the
A n hi m merica eagle, and the British artists put through more crookednesses than were ever attained by a circus contortionist .
hi L n But there are familiar t ngs everywhere . eavi g the land ( 1 1 ) 12 A KANSAN A D BROA .
i n e g stage and turning into Water stre t, the first thing this writer
’ saw was a poster announ cing the virtues of Perry Davis s Pain
a — Killer . Ws it not a noble thought ? America stretching out
’ her hand with a bottle of Perry Davis s Pain Killer to soothe
s e E di d n the angui hed bow ls of ngland "Gen . Grant not eed to come to promote harmony betwe en countries which cure the same
- kind of stomach ache with the same medicine .
n e th e Walki g along the streets, one is impr ssed with enormous — strength and solidity of everything the pavements of great stones ; the warehouses which look as if they had stood for all time and were ready for ete rnity ; the plate - glass Windows ; the enormous amount of brass- work everywhere ; and the big knockers
th e e A E on doors , which would br ak in an merican door . very
o " as thing is in the same proporti n horses big as elephants, shod
h i h - e with g corked sho s, hauling a load for a small locomotive, go clanking up and down the rocky ways ; and omnibuses are
e rolling about, drawn by three great hors s abreast ; and the street
e d e car, lat ly introduce , is a huge, lumbering contrivanc , with a circular stairway for the people to climb up on top —for English people love to ride outside in the rain .
Th e greatness of England extends even to these little things ;
- but the fierce pride of this people, their unconquerable bull dog courage in war, is commemorated everywhere in great works .
h e c s e e T docks, the like of whi h exi t nowhere ls , bear the names of
T N s . th e Waterloo, rafalgar and el on Wellington looks afar from
a N top of an enormous pill r, and elson is everywhere in stone and
o L o n in br nze . iverpo l sprang from the sea, and the ame of the
’ s e e greatest of England s a fight rs is naturally the most prominent .
N n n m Next to elson and Welli gton , the most frequent a e is that
14 A KANSAN A R OAD B . — There is much to se e in Liverpool more than at first sight
e e d would be susp ct . I will now mention but one place of inter
e est, the free library and mus um .
Th e A c e a " meri an id a is, th t the nobility of a country are a nui — sauce a relic of a barbarous time ; that an aristocracy grinds
o n down the people and wrings fr m them their hard earni gs, and
s ec1all c . E w am is generally and p y a urse In ngland , ho ever, I
e e t s inclined to think the peopl g their money back, and perhap
th e s a e s a little more ; and mu eum is a c se in point . Th re wa — once a cock - figh ti ng Earl of Derby which you will understand
“ ” . T o e s is not Derby, but Darby his old ro st r had a pas ion for — a e - c n all the fowl creation beginning with g m co ks, and extendi g
a e e He a s c th e f r to everything th t wore f ath rs . r n a ked world o
e f ff birds, and ther is a story that when he was about to shu fle o
o h e e s e c - this mortal c il , requ t d that a ouple of game cocks be pitted on his bed where h e could se e th e m fight ; and so he liter
“ ” a e Hi s b e ally died g m . immense collection of birds was
ueath ed th e e L q to fr e library and museum of iverpool, where it
e e e a I e e may now b se n . I am fr e to say th t have n ver s en its
o o at t like, and that the Smiths nian collecti n Washing on is small
s Th e e e o e in compari on . mus um is v ry extensive in th r depart
’ s I sa A c o ment , but would y to an meri an, don t f rget to go to the museum and see the birds .
e o s I visit d , als , the free library in search of ome information
a Banastre T about the bloody British c valryman , arleton, who
c o th e C th e R o made us so mu h tr uble in arolinas during ev lution, and h a L re re w o fter the war returned to iverpool , and for years p
a o a n sented the borough in P rliament . I f und his own ccou t of
a a a e o his c mp igns , a str ightforward , soldi ry st ry enough, and quite
e a en a o find n complim nt ry to G . W shington ; but c uld othing about I MPRE I N 1 5 S OME FI RS T SS O S .
e L wh o lth man himself, nor could I find a man in iverpool knew l n Banastre T a ything about him, although and arleton streets are
n i n ff b c e t thoroughfares in the city . Such is fame on the di erent i A sides . ‘ of the tlantic I think Liverpool is somewhat overlo oked by American trav
ers e L . Doubtless, a prejudice exists becaus iverpool was so y s n e R o tro gly South rn in sympathy during the ebelli n , and the na A a s c me of the l bama is as o iated with that of Birkenhead, just
th e e e T n ot across M rs y . his should , however, work injustice to a reall o i y interesting place, and one of the great seap rts of the world .
It may be proper to say that I was placed unde r gre at obliga
i n L o E. t b s . a , while in iverpool , to Mr J seph Worrall, brother of
P H s e T . T rof. enry Worrall , of opeka hi g ntleman exercised a hospitality which could not possibly be exce eded on our side of the A c and tlanti ; as a proof that good qualities run in families, the write r will say that one of the brightest d ays of his life was
C e r spent in the old town of hester with Walt r Wo rall, the son of
orralls o one and nephew of the other of the W af resaid . ERY OLD EN V GLAND .
“ ALKING i n L with a friend iverpool, one day, I said, I ” “ ” e A C ? r b lieve all mericans go to hester Yes, he e “ s onded e h p , with truly British dir ctness ; all w o have any sense ” A e . C e e do ccordingly I decid d to go to h st r .
to d We crossed by the railway boat Birkenhea , and by rail
- wa C s . y, third class, to he ter It is time for some American tourist to arise and confess that while in England he did ride
- o L i n L third class, and did not st p at the angham ondon , and I will assume the responsibility . “ ” R - as iding third cl s, no noble jukes or members of the royal t family were found in the compartmen s , but several very respect
- o able appearing men , and among them a manufacturer fr m one of
L h o the suburbs of iverpool, w had a melancholy interest in
. A h e i n merica, from the fact that had not long before lost a son
- C th e L a the wreck of the ill fated ircassian, on ong Isl nd coast .
To this gentleman I was much indebted for information during the first part of a long stroll in the quaint old town of C hester .
n C s It is questionable if a ybody knows the real age of he ter. I
For all A am am quite sure I do not. I know to the contrary, d
n At t may have been o e of the original town company . any ra e,
e Th e i n it is very, v ry old . Saxons had a town on th s pleasa t spot
e R Nor by the riv r Dee, and the omans built a wall there, and the mans came and ravaged around after their fashion ; and all so rts ( 16 ) ER Y LD EN LAND V O G . 1 7
e a e for of que r people, now h ppily d ad, built queer houses the
Americans, the last race of men made, to come and look at .
An C t a wa odd old town is hester, with streets h t crook every y; wi th black - faced old houses that lean ove r and look at you as you pass ; with a great square - towered cathedral that lifts its high
ve e and a a shouldered roof above e rything els ; fin lly, with a f mous
c e old wall which ircles around, in and out and verywhere
n for crossi g the streets on arches, keeping company a while with
- i o e a slow going canal, then cross ng the railr ad, th n passing under ” e c the walls of a castl , and so on to the pla e of beginning . “ ” C ec e e " Th e R hester has three sp ial obj cts of prid ows, the
e o e n e we cathedral, and the walls ; but b f re se i g any of thes went “ ld ” I t to a place called the O Kitchen . seems that C hester had “ as e C S the bad t te to adher to that man of blood, harles tuart, who lost finally a head which appears to have been of very little
th e On e service to him or to kingdom . the r storation of the
s i n e C II — e Stuart , the p rson of harles that exc edingly frisky “ ” — i nC and monarch there were high jinks hester, the cavaliers
“ ” met s Old K at thi itchen to sing profane catches and glees,
s s s th e e wh o greatly to the di gu t, doubtle s, of godly peopl lived in a house not far off, on the front of which may be see n to this day
“ ’ ” M c h d e . T e the wor s, God s Provid nce is ine Inheritan e room
e - ac e all is surround d by high b ked oak n chairs, side by side, where th e s n a e convivial sat and a g, prob bly till a lat hour, as the chairs
i s f are so contrived that it di ficult to fall out of the m . “ ” h e R ea For o c T ows are a f ture of C hester . wh le blo ks the
e e e c upp r stories of the houses project ov r, pr isely like a Western
- It e block house. is said that this styl of building was adopted by th e worthy burghers of C hester in order that they might the
e s re b tter pour down arrows, sticks, stone , hot water and other 1 A KAN AN A ROAD 8 S B .
freshments s on the heads of the invading Wel h . Under the shadow of these overhanging houses you follow a wide stone
e e and o all pavement, not on a l v l , but up d wn at sorts of angles .
Th e e e C e e e fin st stor s in h st r are situated along th se arcades, and
o t in rainy weather you can walk all over town with ut getting we .
old c Many of these houses are , their beams bla k with time ; others
of have been restored in the old form, but new material , and are T very handsome . here is an astonishing number of inns and
- h - s drinking places in C hester wit old fa hioned names . Drovers “ ” “ are invite d by the sign of Th e Pied Bull ; pork packers pass
” “ “ the rosy at the Pig and Whistle ; and there is a White ” “ ld ’ H ” Lion and an O Nag s ead .
Th e R wall was built first, they say, by the omans, and a few stones laid by the m still remain ; but endless changes have been made by subsequent builders, till it is like the famous American
o b gun that had a new lock, st ck and arrel, but still remained the
—i n A same gun one particular . broad stone walk runs around
as - the inside of the bre t high parapet, and this walk has been for
n and - a lo g time the pride, the promenade the play ground of
t Th e o Ches er . wall f llows no grade ; it goes up and down, i n
old e and out ; sometimes it runs under gnarled trees, th n it skirts
o along the crest of black rocks high above the canal . S metimes
’ eb le s e you look down into p p chimn ys, and green gardens, and then you have a noble prospect of a fine undul ating country for
For e i t many miles . som distance overlooks a broad , green
c t meadow, beyond whi h is the river Dee, and then it skir s close
o to the river and you l ok down at the brown and brawling stream .
a — sun — e An Americ n friend the shone briefly on us, as w ,
e I of n young Walt r and , made the circuit this gray and gree and
How was "No n red old wall . indescribably beautiful it writte E Y LD E LA D V R O N G N . 1 9
’ e e e description , no paint r s brush , even , can giv an id a of the
e E e n vivid , velv ty green of an nglish rural landscap , see through
. We an atmosphere, half sun, half haze passed by the tower
C es I e e R o from whence harl saw his army d f ated at owt n Moor, but near by a group of chubby English childre n were found in a T state of great commotion on the wall . wo little girls were weep
- ing, and several short legged young Britons were running back
’ e A h a and forth in bewild red excitement . little girl s t had blown “ ” c and down and out to the railroad tra k below, nobody dared
for a es E c to go down and get it, the m j ty of nglish law whi h for
on ac oo e e o h at bids walking railroad tr ks, st d b tw en the l st and its
e e e sa We ping littl owner . I am fre to y that I care d more for the
h at C e and o a child and her lost than for harl s I his l st b ttle . To
on " se go with our walk we pas d under the walls of the castle, and looking up through the embrasures could see the red coats of ’ — Her Majesty s 106th Regiment at their drill but we will talk
s a e of soldier some other time . We p ssed n ar this the green
th e ac - o meadow before mentioned , on which is situated r e c urse of
h e C s a s t . hester, one of the mo t f mou in kingdom — Th e famo us cathedral was twice visited i n the morning and “ ” I t er ld e . e . v o . the ev ning It has b en or is being restored is y,
Th e S and s axons furnished some of the work , several saint with
Th e N th e — barbarous names . ormans added to pile probably for pie ty and pillaging the Normans have never been surpassed .
l C romwell took no stock in saints not e nrolle d i n hi s own re gi
He e e ff coa to ments . pr ferr d live saints in bu ts saints in wood
e e of was and stone, so ev rything insid the building whitewashed over ; but now the whitewash is being scraped off and the old
e saints are coming up smiling . Many c nturies of grease and
c e o e n dirt had ac umulat d on the curious ak n carvi gs of the choir, KAN AN A D 20 A S BROA .
th e o e and wo d was all boil d piecemeal in a solution of potash ,
Th e o and then put together again . w rk has gone on under the
of H o o superintendence Dean owson, by v luntary c ntributions
n - s Dissenters contributi g with others and has cost enormou sums .
e There is a gr at chandelier costing a fabulous amount, which will never be lighted again on account of the tre mendous heat of the
I t . burners . all forms a wilderness of carving and gilding I
e walked about with the v rger the customary round, and then “ ” e He e stepped alone into the cloist rs . re was no r storation . “ Here were pillars gnawed nearly i n two by the corroding tooth ” of time ; here th e groine d roof was black with the clouds of
Th e years . cloisters inclosed a little square of shrubbery, green
’ as emerald ; the ever old and the ever new were here . Man s
’ work falling to blackn ess and decay ; God s work renewed by the
- e - perpetually r curring miracle of the spring time . It was easy to
e a H people this shadowy plac with the de d and gone . ere paced
e a e the votari s of an ancient f ith ; h re, under black cowl and gown ,
e s e were hidd n the live of men ; here, p rchance, the ambitious
e a o f c dreamed th ir dre ms hurchly power ; here, perchance, were
on a ma quenched the l gings of a v in world ; here, it y be, some
a he rt did break in solitude .
We attended the choral servi ce in the cathedral in the even
saw s o f e s s c s ing, we the proce sion rob d prie t and horister , and
c th e o wat hed the dim shadows gather in lofty arches verhead , and the light fading out of the gorgeous windows of blue and
Th a a - o . e th e green and g ld org n ro red like the wind in tree tops,
’ far an d s th e and echoed in the dim distant chapel , and boys
a s voices rose high and cle r, or sank soft and low, as they ang of
e a faith in better things beyond ; of a templ not m de with hands,
h as An d greater than man ever builded . leaving them singing, v we n C took our leave of stra ge, beautiful old hester .
22 A KANSAN AB R OA D .
i n S K n call hrewsbury the i gsland, and beyond this was a high
ca e e rise of ground and rows of poplars and s ttered h dg s, and
o e bey nd thes the sky .
L th e th e a ooking out the front windows into street, view w s shut in at a few yards by a curve in the stre e t and th e walls of a
a as th e e o o a gr y old church , if str et had p litely g ne round the
s f r i T building out of re pect o ts old age . hese old English streets
not a e on e a wa do make brupt angl s, but wind al g th ir n rrow y, up
’ “
o . L hill and d wn , as sinuous as a snake s track ifting up mine
” c a an a I - a ds e e eyes, in s riptur l l gu ge, saw the red s n ton tow rs of
cas e S ws a the ancient tl of hre bury, founded a thousand years go .
A e e a o e f os at a ac g ntl m n fr m Sh field sat opp ite t ble ; in f t, there
n o o ne th e o th e E a e a e was else in ro m , for nglishm n lov s to t k his
’ a a e e table d h te me ls as nearly lon as possibl , and the o will be the
c e a e e E a last thing introdu ed gen r lly into cons rvativ ngl nd . I
h ad s e a e to h e ne think he bu in ss to tt nd in the city, but if so, g lected for all a es e o we e o it, th t bl s d f renoon walk d up and d wn , in
th e a w s e ts S e w and out of all n rro , shady tr e of hr sbury, without
e ose a a e ffe e any d finite purp , t lking of hundr d di r nt things, and
a stopping occasion lly to lo ok or to rest .
S e s one th e a old o E hr w bury is of f mous t wns of ngland, really
a I n o more prominent four hundred ye rs ago than now . th se
“ mes we e b oo o good old ti r ad about, l dy work was d ne in the
H e th e 21st 1403 K H I vicinity . er , on of July, , ing enry V met th e fie r - a e e a a ou y he rted P rcy, bett r known by the name m de f m s
h aks eare —Ho s H a e e by S p t pur . ere the battle r g d all the summ r
e c e . day, until gentlem n and ommon soldiers w re killed
h e o o ces e o e e T next m rning, W r t r and two th r nobl men captured
’ o c e by the King s victorious f r es were behead d in Shrewsbury, L HRE B R 23 O D S WS U Y.
ft a o a n and a erward, the de d b dy of the gall nt Hotspur having bee
s o e e d found, the senseles c rpse was b h aded and quartere , and the “ quarte rs fixed upon the gates of the town . Those were the days
o of chivalry . Into this same t wn , also, David of Wales, a.
a L l o e brother of the f mous lewe lyn, was br ught in chains and xe ,
a F r cuted with circumstan ces of horrible barb rity . o whole cen
sc e s turi es Shrewsbury was the en of war , tumults, skirmishes and
It and E sieges . is all over now, nglishmen go far away from the
a we e th e n ew c old town to die in b ttle, for, as st pped into hurch
C a —so e ro old u of St . h d call d to distinguish it f m a very ch rch — of the same name we came upon the monuments of the men
e I I t from the vicinity who f ll in ndia during the great mutiny . seems strange that boys go from these green old fields and shady
la o e o lanes to y their b n s on the ther side of the earth . But you
T e old i c E see it everywhere . her is not an par sh chur h in ngland that does not contain the memorials of English soldie rs who died
i n I A e h i n Spain, in Belgium, ndia, in merica, verywhere . T e most promin e nt obj e ct in Shrewsbury is th e immense column
in L H wh o o all E erected honor of ord ill, f ught over urope in the
i N c great wars aga nst apoleon , arried on for many bloody years for what ?
One i of the glories of Shrewsbury is its grammar school, wh ch
e e a o f had 290 scholars thr e hundred y ars g . Many men amous i n
E e c e at ngland have be n edu at d this school, but the only one
s e o A e c i s t who e name is w ll kn wn in m ri a , I regret to say, tha
' a J efiri es It of the inf mous Judge . seems strange that such a bloody - minded beast could eve r have be e n a school - boy with a ld s c o . oft heart in su h a quaint, quiet town
S e I c My h ffield friend and came at last to the astle . It is now 24 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
a private residence, and occupied by a family named Downard, C h though it is the property of the Duke of leveland, w o seldom
- or never visits it . We wandered into the court yard, now devoted to the greenest of grass and the brightest of flowers and clumps
s we e n of tree and shrubbery, before were aware that w were o
A z . a private property pologi ing to a lady in bl ck whom we met,
n we for the i trusion , were about to withdraw, when she politely invited us to inspect the premises and enjoy the view from the tower, and gave, beside, much information about the town and
on vicinity . Standing the tower we looked down upon the
Severn , which runs at the base of the mount on which the castle T “ is built . his was, then , the gentle Severn with the sedgy ” Sh aks eare bank, that p speaks of and so came back to memory the old lines about the ashes of Wickliffe being cast into the Avon Th e o to th e Se e s Av n v rn run , Th e Severn to th e sea ; ’ And Wi ckli ffe s s s a s ea a oa du t h ll pr d br d, ” e as h te s Wid t e wa r b e .
Our was walk finished at noon , but in the evening I took a “ ” i n long stroll alone, going to the Quarry, a famous place
Shrewsbury . It is not a quarry at all, but a piece of ground S sloping to the evern, and surrounded on three sides by double A rows of immense lime trees, a tree resembling the merican linn ,
Th e s but growing to a great height . tree , many of them planted
1719 an sun in , form archway of green over the path which the T of noon can h ardly penetrate . hen I wandered through the old
E - streets, across the nglish bridge with its time worn railing, to
e s E r the old abb y with a statue, suppo ed to be that of dwa d III, hi sun m as for gh up in front, facing the and stor it has done HRE B R 25 OLD S WS U Y.
n n T n and n ma y ce turies . hen, back agai across the bridge dow
n n th e some sto e steps to a long winding path beside the Sever ,
n and eve ing promenade of the Shrewsbury folks, so along, watch ing the shadows of the evening clouds i n the placid waters till
n th e day was do e . E E WORC ST R.
A I NG S E V Shrewsbury, on the evern Valley road, for Wor
wa e as oester, one has along the y a pl ant view of the Welsh mountains, which are rather great blue hills, reminding one
R n off somewhat of the Blue idge in Virgi ia, as seen a long way .
‘
h b ut n othi n . T e country grows rougher as you journey on , g grand
c I h ad E So far, the open ountry seen in ngland reminded me of
I A i n a reduced copy of something had seen in merica ; as, for
n c stance, o this road there is a pre ipitous town called Ironbridge, h C N t which makes one think of Mauc hunk on a small scale . o
e e far from here I was point d out the residenc of a Mr . Whitmer,
n t an iro mas er, whose estate extends for miles in every direction .
Hi s name was mentioned with more respect than I have noticed
and used with regard to many noblemen, I am inclined to think
wh o that men like him, are allied by birth to the middle, or even,
S o as in the case of the elder tephenson, to the l wer classes, are the real leading men of England .
Th e agriculture of this region was indifferent ; the hedges were u m e s ntri med ; the fi ld were poor, and many of them were a per
e o i fe t blaze of p ppies, very ornamental, but qu te the reverse of
u Ne E s . w u ef l It reminded me of some old country in ngland,
all t th e where the young men have gone West, and lef old men to
- s knock about with a side hill plow and a bu h scythe .
e i Worc ster, where we arrived in due but not very fast t me, is 26 ) R E TER 2 WO C S . 7
S a o - on - A of an ugly town, uglier even than tr tf rd von, ( which we
- - a b b e c s a e . sh ll speak y and y, ) b au e it is l rg r It is known best in
’ C we s e e o f history on account of rom ll fight th r , the memory which
l is perpetuated in the Guildhall by a cannon and several suits of
’ e e e armor left by the king sforces wh n th y retr ated .
E E s i ts c e very old ngli h town has pe uliariti s and its sights, or
of a s T L ffe . some real or a cted quality its inhabit nt hus, at iver pool they still relate with infinite glee the story of a coachman in “ c a s c e e n the old oaching d y , who des rib d his load as a gentl ma
L e man a e s e and Bol from iv rpool, a from M nch t r, a fellow from ” ton . C e e s S h as hester has, as I have said, thr ights ; hrewsbury “ ” o e two s an d a dozen little li ns ; but Worcest r has but sight , no
to t e th e a T a more, in er st tr veler . hese are the c thedral and the
R o e a oyal P rc l in Wo rks .
Th e a h as e o i s fin e cathedr l b en rest red, and a building, with
T e are e to a modern look . h y say these restorations nec ssary pre
i o o e are o serve antique bu ldings , and yet ast nishing st ri s t ld of the D f E s e Re . C o v. solidity old ngli h structur s . Moncure onway
e i n H L a e Ha liv s ammersmith , ondon, in dwelling call d mlet
o e e s old and as H use, which is over one hundr d and fifty y ar , w
L o s E s c once the residence of ist n, the famou ngli h a tor ; yet Mrs .
C onway assured me that it did not ne ed near the re pairs of a mod
L n e e e me B T . ut ern ondo resid nce . h y built w ll in the old ti to
n C C a r retur to Worcester and its cathedral . hester thedral is e
r e of t o ce e of ma kably destitut monumen s, but W r st r is full them . One ere cted to the memory of Lady C harlotte Digby (the work of
C r u — of hant ey) , is singularly bea tiful worthy Powers, who, in my
not A ca o th e e perhaps very valuable meri n pinion, was gr atest s - recli ni n female culptor since Phidias . It represents a partially g 28 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
e t . Th e figure, with her hands clasped and her yes uplif ed neck,
are . th e arms and feet are bare, and the latter most marvelous
c things I eve r saw in marble . In this hurch is also burie d the “ ” a a was wife of Iza k W lton, and there a touch of nature in the
“ c A inscription in the words introdu ed in parenthesis, las "that ” T c she is dead . here is an abundance of monuments of an ient knights and ladies, lying side by side on their tombs, their poor
’ Th e e e stone hands clas ped . v rg r said the way in which a knight s legs were crossed indicated the number of holy wars in which he had been en gage d ; whereupon the idle and irrelevant refle ction
A e occurred to me , that an m rican editor lying on his tomb with his legs crossed for each of his fights would be a fearfully twisted object .
Th e e A gratuity nuisanc , at which every merican traveler has
a o waxed wrathful , exists in a particul rly aggravated f rm at Wor
N s are e este r C e . c ath dral otice ev rywhere posted , informing vis i tors e that the vergers are paid by the d an and chapter, and that
to ou are o no gratuities are be given them , but y adm nished that “ ” at e a e e you must give l st sixpenc to the poor, and a verg r stands
e T th e H over you to se that you do it . his is too mean ; but ouses “ ” of Parliament are almost the only show places i n England w e d here some such sixp nny do ge is not resorted to .
a c Spe king of athedrals, they are grand structures ; they are history in stone ; and I can sympathize with the feeling that leads — to their prese rvation and restoration but they are unfit for Prot estan t e As m e plac s of worship . useums, th y are a success ; as
T e e an churches, they are not . h y wer built for another age and
Th e e c for other faith . anci nt monkish arvings, instance, would by no means he introduced even into a modern C atholic church .
80 A KAN AN A R AD S B O . that about twenty thousand y e ars would be re quired for the Inde pendent Ord e r of Goo d Templars to acquire a good and sufficient foothold .
Th e Ro c e h yal Por elain Works are w ll worth a visit . T e
a e a o n s works have been est blish d b ut one hu dred and fifty year ,
e o E Th e i and claim to make the fin st g ods in ngland . cur ous i n pottery may have notice d the IVorcester work at our C entennial
h e e e c Exhibition . T proc ss s by whi h what look like white rocks and white sand are conve rted into the most delicate porce lain
N e are e . wares , very int resting early verything is done by hand ;
e A e ca e e o e and h re, as in m ri , it has b n f und that in c rtain kinds
- o can o e b e o e H of burnishing work w men al n empl y d . ere is one “ ” e e e A s field wher woman is pre min nt . gate are used in bur n i shi n C o o a o fi g, and I suggested l r do as a g od eld to supply the
e e T larg amount of the stone requir d . here are six hundred per
e th e s — e two m E As sons employ d in work all sav of the nglish .
“ a curious instance of th e biblical truth that there is nothing new ” was a was under the sun , I told th t the favorite ware now of the
e K e e I II same pattern as a set mad for ing G org . If you go to
d an o s c . c Worcester, not fail to vi it the por elain works You get a pair of nice blue vases there for the sum of only one thousand
a a guine s a p ir .
At e e Worc st r, it was my disgusting fortune to meet the first
- E m o ill mannered nglish an . It was a youth with a sc rbutic coun
n s T ten a ce . , who sold tickets at the Great We tern station his
s e u e to of E nOte per on not only r f s d change a Bank ngland , but
e e c e e a or gente lly intimat d that I was a ounterf it r, or a burgl r, a
- o e As horse thief for having such a note in my p ss ssion . it was train - time wh e n I re ceived this flattering testimonial to my char 1 WORCES TER. 3
' was th e e e acter, and there no chance to get note chang d elsewh re,
as e on c I w oblig d to remain several hours l ger in Wor ester .
a e I wandered into the Guildh ll , where a court was in s ssion .
was ffa th e c as It a small a ir, and Justi es had no wigs ; but it is impossible to de al out justice in England without some thing un
ll th e e e s I t on o e a . was usual y ur h ad, Justic s had th ir hat on “ ” some cas e in which a workus was mixed up ; and it struck me that their worships looke d uncommonly like the beadle i n Oliver k t
In a A accord nce with the merican custom, I went into a news
fli h r I a e o ce T e . p p r . editor, I was sorry to lea n , was dead trust
i as a e his l fe w insured, as otherwise his f mily were undoubt dly left
The a fat c o destitute . business man ger, a man with a gra i us way,
h o o ( in L was c . w had w rked a ondon paper, very ivil I went into
i n sti tu the composing room with him . It looked just as such an “ ti on does in America; Th e foreman told me that the tramping ” as s so jour . w a regular Briti h institution ; my friend, and every
’ a e Le e body s friend, Mr . Peter B rtl tt , will find himself at home
e s of ld A as n should he choos to vi it the shores o lbion . I w show an an - was o i to A c old h d press , and ast n shed see the meri an eagle
“ ” “ ti H o a s . roo ng thereon ello, old bird, th ught I ; wh t are you ” doing here ? Th e matter was expl ained when I saw that it was “ ” “ ” an C old olumbian press, the image and superscription of hi i H w ch may be seen in any h story of typography . owever, thi s was not all "I found a n ew American jobber in operation i n f the o fice . “ ” Alth ough I had had a sample of Worcestershire sauce from
l I t for the cub at the rai road station, looked abou the manufactory 3 2 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
’ “ ” h of Le a Perrin s justly celebrated article . T e manufactory was not as extensive as I expected ; and I fear that what is sauce for Worcester is not sauce for America .
’ At 4 P M wa o clock . . I wended my y to the station , where my imperial friend was graciously pleased to accept a sum in copper — and silver in exchange for a ticket to Stratford - ou - Avon of which I may use the entirely original and impromptu expres ” n sion, more a on . STRATFORD ON AVON.
HAKSPEARE n I LLI AM S , by merely being bor , con “ o on e d e ferred unmeasured h nor a v ry stupi , stal , flat ” — and unprofitable town a town which it is a duty to visit and a pleasure to leave ; a town wh e re th e old houses are not pi ctur
‘
th e ne w are o . esque, and ones not hands me
’ Th e Stratford of Sh akspeare s time was probably a cozy
as E s a o i n hamlet, as comfortable any ngli h vill ge c uld be the ” e I t as A wa good old tim . w nearer the von (which, by the y, is
A- a pronounced von by those born on its b nks) , and there were
e e o trees and gard ns where th re are now broad , flat yell w streets
e lined with ugly hous s .
a S I re ched tratford a few hours by sun, and looked about
n I i n for th e . something that would bri g back old time found , “ ” o stead, the pr gramme of a praise meeting such as my friend
e — o the Rev. Mr . Blakesl y holds at his church th ugh I venture “ ” to say the birthplace of the bard of Avon does not furnish as good music as Topeka ; and also a handbill announcmg that the
s e e H was Methodi ts w re going to hold a camp m eting soon . ere
A c n certainly one meri a institution at the start . While the relig ious exercises of the neighborhood savored of the modern, it
e must be confessed , that the amus ments had a more ancient
. For n was o c flavor i stance, it ann un ed that one of the sports at “ an approaching festival would be walking across the river on a ( 33 ) 34 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
” . T o F s f greased pole for a pig his w uld have pleased al taf , and doubtl ess that immoral old knight laughed at the same per forman ce e in his tim .
I t was s E s sun et, or rather the long ngli h twilight had com me nced I d wa c , when wen ed my y to the hurch of the Holy
T Sh aks e are e . Th e rinity, where p is buri d church stands in the
o e an d s e c rn r of the town , is hut in by garden walls and tre s . It
e e o n A does not s m a part of the modern t w . sound of music .
a c issued from the gr y old chur h, and a boy told me it was doubt
“ ” if o as e n was o ful I c uld gain admission , choir me ti g in pr gress .
H e e o of th e owev r, yond r was the h use Mr . Butcher, parish clerk,
se e . c e and I might him about it . Mr But h r came out of his re
t l a I c He as spe c ab e m nsion as approa hed it . w a man o f decent
R a and venerable aspect, with a om n nose large enough for two
He - R . average omans was somewhat round shouldered , and had
e a rather sad and w aried look . I felt that he thought this was a “ ” e s mad world, my mast r , when people came across the oce an to ask him hundreds of questions about a man wh o has been dead 1 H c 1 6 6 . e u e sin e did his d ty, though, and we ent red the church ,
o c h in which the shad ws had commen ed to gather . T e choir
e a was - lead r had his forces marsh led , and giving his orders in a
nd e o s 1 loud a per mpt ry manner . We pas ed through the ch0 r and stood at the railing of the chancel within which lies buried
h ks eare Th e S a p . bust in the niche in the wall above the chan
is e a one . cel is famili r to every from engravings It color d, to
- make it appear life like, I presume . I trust it is a bad likeness ;
o h o I h pe that the artist w carved it was a very bad one, for it would be a genuine affliction to believe that Sh akspe are looked
that o - n like . It is the beefy c untenance of a good natured perso TRATF RD N —A N S O O VO . 3 5
’ wh o mi ght possibly pay for a Falstafl s drinks for the sake of
wh o ss c of laughing at his talk, but in no po ible jun ture circum stances could b e supposed to take an active part in the conver sation .
Very good peopl e are some times trouble d with doubts about
T e e s I s of the doctrine of the rinity, and v r ince fir t read Miss
’ ’ Sh aks e are e Sh aks ear s Bacon s theory, that p did not writ p e
h e was e s Lo — i n telle plays, but that mer ly a ma k for rd Bacon c — tually the greate st Englishman o f his time I have had spasms “ ” a I of infidelity about the divingWilli m . As l o oked at his
e a a o c an d e a c r grav n im ge in Str tf rd chur h , r d the mysterious u se
c an e h i s n o r whi h forbids y m ddling with bo es , all my d ubts e
H a e o I a . ow w s o turned it possibl , th ught , th t a drunken , diss lute
ca e - of- th e - wa ac e e c youth , edu t d in this out y pl e, v r a quired the inform ation displaye d in a lon g se ries of historical plays ? How did anybody born in Stratford - on - Avon ever com e to write any thing ? I was glad to go out of the church ; and as I went I
h f' t e se co e e o . c gazed again on rious unt nanc Mr But her, and won
he hi s o and dered if did not have d ubts, if he did not have to struggle with himse lf to kee p fro m breaking out sometime before
of A i n s s e a party mer ca vi itor , and telling them that th y were humbugged ; that the re n e ve r was any Sh akspeare ; that he n e ver
as — e e e e a w born n v r di d , and nev r wrote any pl ys . If Mr .
c h ad o h e e c But her any d ubts, k pt them lo ked in his bosom by a ” e n t combination known only to hims lf. But he was o a Shak s earean for as e o th e e c d p enthusiast ; we walk d d wn aisl , he alle
e to n ew e - a o th e my att ntion some stain d gl ss wind ws, and to modern arrange ments for heating the church with h ot- water
e for e e ac i n th e e pip s, , he r mark d, it was a cold pl e winter tim ; “ ” o e and so he said go d night, and l ft me in the churchyard . 3 6 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
Th e A It was a quiet place . von flows at the foot of the stone wall which forms one side of the churchyard . On the other side o f e the narrow str am, which winds among sedgy islands, was a
fe w th e broad, green meadow, but a inches above level of the
" was water ; and beyond that a green embankment, and then a
e line of scattered oak trees, and b yond them the evening sky .
- i n - Young people were walking arm arm in the meadow, and some
a - ac boys were fishing from the stone w ll, and some fresh f ed, hoy deni sh young girls were running and romping about among the
. o Sh aks e ar I t g ravestones It was p ssible here to believe in p e . was possible to suppose that he might have walked beside this
a a stream , and that his brilli nt f ncy might have here conjured up ” “ e such bits of melody as Wher the bee sucks, and C ome unto ” And a . was these yellow s nds yet, if history be true, all this
c Th e a a t L L n fan y . immort l pl ys were wri ten in ondon, the ondo
a e e t of ne rly thr e hundr d years ago, a ci y of dirty, narrow streets
“ ’ Th e c a All and unsavory smells . h nces are that the world s a ” not S stage was thought out, under the blue sky at tratford , but at the wings and amid the smoke of th e candl es that lit the stage
- f T L . o e e un o the Globe heatre, in ondon P ets hav liv d in most
a s Sh aks eare e e o poetical pl ce , and p was not an xc ption . Stratf rd
s h e as had nothing to do with his geniu . In the little town w
e He a born , and spent a not v ry reputable youth . sought re l life
L at in ondon , and passed his greatest days there, and retired last
’ n e e with a not uncommo f eling of attachm nt to one s birthplace, di Hi e . s to Stratford, to and be buried family name is not an
T e Sh aks eare u ncommon one . h re is a p in the town now, who
o was a o C a keeps a little sh p ; there is, or not many years g , a apt in
h aks eare wh o . S p in the British army, , Mr Butcher told me, had
’ “ visited Stratford ; but no Sh akspeare traces his descent from the
3 A KAN AN A R AD 8 S B O .
was o n e who company there not a man or w ma , I v nture to say, “ ” Sh aks e are did not regard p as a maker of profane stage plays, and a son of perdition ; and I am equally confid e nt that Shak speare in his day regard ed the Puritans as a se t of sour - faced
‘ t unworth a e bigo s, y place on the arth they darkened with their gloomy presence . Yet in that new nation founded by these con t mn er of th e e Sh aks eare e s the vanities of stag , the name of p is held in th e greatest reverence . ” Ne c s e o Shaks eare e w Pla e, the it of the h use where p di d , I did not care to visit . We are told that the property fell into the
wh o wh o hands of a clergyman was bored by visitors, and , more anxious to have a comfortable place to die in himself than to h e . T e c preserve an old hous , tore it down pla e is a sort of beer
e I . gard n now, believe
S o s e e n t F e o . urth r about tratf rd , thi d pon nt saith Were it ten t s u and e i s o ime as gly , , in itself, uninter sting as it , it w uld always
d Me n o e s a s be visite . cann t r ist, fter all the vanished year , the spell of that myste rious genius which came like a meteor from
th e ass e a out darkness ; which p ed over the rth like the wind ,
“ ” e c o and o . but wh n e it c meth whither it goeth, ye cann t tell T E WARWIC K AND I TS C AS L .
MORNING ride from Stratford - on - Avon to Warwick is
s not a particularly inspiriting operation , as the road lead through an exclusively agricultural country .
on and Warwickshire, in its surface, is not unlike Dickins
c of Kan are lenti other ounties sas in that region, but trees very p
h h e ful a t e e . T s ; in f ct, country was, c nturies ago, a forest tree s s th e ft n i n the ometime cover hillsides in groves, but o e er stand
- u e Th e hedge rows which cut the country p into small fi lds .
b - - wa c e n th e hawthorn, y the y, is a mu h handsomer hedg pla t than
o Th e oo e Osage range . grain l k d short ; and they were cutting th e r - e and n g ass with little one horse mow rs, the swaths laid thi
o sa n nor on the gr und . I w not a stalk of Indian cor ; did I
an of E e e i n see ear it in ngland , except those xhibit d the British
e T e and Museum as curiositi s . h re were many fields of turnips,
of o e - b ut h others some plants that lo ked lik milk weed, whic , I
a e e n learned afterw rd, wer horse beans . Wh re the land had bee
' l as n recently plowed , it ooked yellow and poor . It w evide t
c c n that the high ultivation , asso iated in our minds with moder
En n W c r glish farming, had not bee tried in arwi kshi e ; or if so, i t C n had done but little good . reeping arou d in these fields were
e s e Th men in dingy whit clothe , ho ing turnips and the like . e
A i n merican black slave was not, his day, remarkable for the
e e as c lerity and suddenness of his mov ments, but he w a miracle ( 39 ) 40 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
e e s n of activity compar d with th se Warwickshire serf , who belo g A e c . to the constituency of Mr . Jos ph r h In the early part Of the
e e e century, it was r ported that v ry eighth person in Warwickshire
was . of a pauper If agriculture is the only resource the county,
o l the proportion ought to c nstant y increase .
In this region I saw for the first time numerous thatched cot
T e oo tages . h y l k very romantic in pictures, and that is a very “ Th e e - e pretty line about swallow twitt ring in the straw built sh d,
c sa but practically and prosai ally, a thatched roof is a great nui nce,
fire for in perpetual danger of , and a harbor uncounted rats . A
’ farm laborer s thatche d cottage i n England comes next to a Kansas
- s was e n dug out, which I have alway maintained the mean st huma
Th e - e o c habitation . farm hous s pr per were substantial stru tures,
s and the outbuilding usually formed quite a village .
In time, under a dim gray sky, we arrived at the mossy old
Th e town of Warwick . gentle reader will pause to be told here
i s that this word pronounced Warrick in fact, the phonetic Indi ani ans once having occasi on to name a county after an army
c was o officer named Warwi k, spelled the name as it pr nounced, i an d so it remains even unto th s day . Other old towns that I had seen in England looked as if they
e o not had chang d s mewhat in the last thousand years or so, but
As o was so Warwick . so n as the smart railroad station out of
th e s im sight, and shady winding treet shut one in, it was easy to
a c as agine that W rwi k town w still a dependency on the castle, and that th e warder still ke pt his watch on the castle walls . I remarked the image carved in stone of a very venerable - looking
on s of - - goat, standing his hind leg on top an ivy covered gate post, an d was speculating as to the character of the old house in front WI OR AND I TS CAS TLE 41 WAR .
e t n of which this goat se med to be a mu e se try, and whether the
was L N e or e occupant my ord evill , , perhaps, B auchamp, when I “ ” th e e o - o saw v ry comm n place notice, B arding, in the window .
as 1877 . It w , after all
e c Th e castle is the great f ature of Warwi k . It is one of the E very fe w edifices of the kind in ngland, still kept up and occu pied as resid en ces .
Th e plan of these old castles appears to have been substantially — E e e was e at the same . l vat d ground s lected Warwick, a cliff T w hi gh above the Avon . here the alls and towers were built — - At abo ut an inclosure the court yard . first, the structure might
m e c c a e and be li ited and rud , but suc essive oc up nts add d towers b c n e c n attlements, till in time, as at Warwi k, an imme s ollectio of A was . and buildings the result village grew up about the castle ,
es e s in th e latt r days, the village, grown to a city, usually exist s th e b ut till, while castle is a mouldering ruin ; at Warwick both “ ” e ff Th e t castle and village are in full forc and e ect . en rance to
s at Warwick ca tle is through a portion of the park, and the road
oe c th e c c one place g s through a utting in ro k, whi h is so over
n e a You hu g with trees that it is twilight ther at noond y . emerge n s e th e t i to the mid t of shrubbery and flow rs, and , crossing moa ,
n ow d r which is dry and beautifully sodde , you enter the cou t
an d e c o yard, the ven rable walls of Warwi k castle are ab ut you .
A c ce ntur e ch guide, for a shilling, will tell you in whi h y a _ to was co c o e e wer nstru ted, but I f rg t what the guid said . I know h was c a n n t at there a astle here when the robber Willi m, k ow as h h t e C o o . T e S r onqueror, to k possessi n of the country axon owne
N e had sided with the ormans, or had remained neutral, and hop d
r os as due and to etain p session, but w kicked out in time, the prop KAN AN A ROAD 42 A S B .
N ert to n . T y given a gentleman amed, I think, ewburgh hen the
a wh o c an ple sant lords o cupied the castle raided other lords, d they returned the compliment by storming the castl e and burn ing — it ; and then new towers and walls were constructed and so the
Th e . a castle grew to be the wonder it is towers, extern lly, seem well preserved ; but when you climb the stone stairs, you see that the steps have been worn thin by the feet of successive genera t Th e - ions . old guard rooms in the tower are curious places, the
a e stone floors f irly hollowed by the wear of centuries . In th se
- rooms, the mail clad warriors tramped about and looked out of
n c n the arrow windows, and longed for a chan e to get dow and
e I t a out and murder and plunder som body . is e sy to be ro m s e c antic in these old places, and one gets to p ulating who the
es of c e pr ent lord the astl may be, and fancies that he must be a d escendant of th e haughty barons wh o dominee red over these premises and the surrounding region ; and who flung down their
“ e n c as L gauntl ts at the feet of ki gs, and made su h remarks , ord ” An s as " h e gu , thou h t lied and that must inherit the fierce fea
e a tur s of his warlike ancestry ; but, in the case of Warwick c stle,
es Th e c this is the pur t fiction . lord of the astle, and the ruler
“ and o b e A of this battled wall donj n keep, is, or would in mer
G Gu e - e e ica, Mr . eorge y Grevill , a mild mannered old g ntl man of
a t e sixty or there bou s, who probably wears a twe d suit and an um brella and a silk hat ; who sits on a re d cushion in the House of
L o n ords and seld m says anything, and who resides in a moder ” h L a o ouse in ondon , inste d of h lding high wassail in his ban “ ueti n at a q g hall Warwick, or storming bout, shouting, What, ” h e Ea " a . T warder, ho let the portcullis f ll present rl of Warwick
n ot i n Ne illes e is the least a relative of the v or the B auchamps, 4 WAR WI CK AND I TS CAS TLE. 3
T e are all e s n i s the Warwicks of old . h y d ad, and the pre e t earl
n F e e wh o o not a descendant of a certai Sir ulk Gr ville, fl urished
’ e T n t longe r ago than Queen Elizab th s time . hese Grevilles do o
e s e e L appear to have be n very distingui h d as fight rs, though ord
mi was at e Li ch fie ld i n Brooke, one of the fa ly, killed the si ge of ,
h es o s e . T e C was th e days of Cromw ll pr ent untes of Warwick, I
m t e told, comes of a ili ary family, b ing a sister of that dashing and
o L L wh o o e L enterprising d nkey, ord ucan , rd red the ight Brigade
a to death and destruction at Balakl va .
e s i s One few " As I hav said, Warwick ca tle of the old castle
A o still occupied as a residence . lth ugh over thirty rooms were
fe w a o c a e o o th e destroyed by fire a years g , a onsider bl p rti n of
n o reside ce part remained unt uched ; and in turn we may say, that th e occupied portion of the castle co mpri ses but a small portion
e i s n f s . o the castle it elf Warwick castl , the , partly a residence,
e a e ca e - partly a pictur g ll ry, and partly a r fully preserved ruin .
h s t n to th e a T e ta e rooms are ope public on the p yment, of
n E course of one shilli g . If heaven were under nglish manage , — m n l n e e nor e t, an entrance fee of one shi ling eith r mor less
A s oo o would be demanded . noble uite of r ms, filled with c stly h A c e t e s . t c and be autiful obje ts, is travers d by vi itor Warwi k I
o C a e I e "as first saw the riginal portrait of h rl s , by Van Dyk I have
e i e s e I D t seen this original sev ral t m s inc , think Van yke mus
e c ce I t a a a have painted sev ral pi tures at on . is this portr it, M caul y “ ” a es e a C was . thinks, th t mak people beli ve th t harles a martyr
a o e a e His M jesty struck me as having a l ng nos , and mean xpres
’ H He I I I o at sion of countenance . olbein s picture of nry V is als
N c c . I t Warwick . o engraving does this pi ture justi e must have
n s a a o e n t can bee a mo t f ithful portrait, for m re b astly cou enance 44 A KAN AN A R AD S B O .
not e a . Th e e c e w ll be im gined fin st pi ture in the coll ction, in my
f S a o O a o . pinion , is a portr it a p nish embassad r, by Velasquez
I hope such of my friends as may hereafter visit Warwick will
u to e not fail to look at it . I o ght not to omit m ntion , also, Sir
’ Re n ld s e S h e st o . T Joshua y o s fam us pictur of Mrs iddons . greate curiosity of the place is the suite of rooms de voted to a display of
T e o out ancient we apons and armor . h se ro ms are hollowed in
o o le f e the en rm us thickness of the old cast walls, which a t r the
e a e a th e process are still h vi r th n walls of our strongest houses .
o c e In g ing to Warwi k, I was moved in a great d gree by a
’ Ea o f L s l desire to visit the rl eice ter s hospita , so pleasantly
e H w o s w n d scribed by a th rne, a de cription which ill bear readi g
s s a a R m e . T w s any tim his a ylum founded by th t obert Dudley,
“ ” E L e th e o e e E arl of eicest r, fav rit of the Virgin Qu en, lizabeth,
are for a for whose virginity we indebted the n me of Virginia .
h ad a — h as ? He s e f Robert his f ults who not poi on d one wi e,
e h e a e dishonored anoth r before m rried her, and disown d a third ; but his monum ent in th e church at Warwick bears th e usual i n “ ” A a an f a e H e o " . scripti n kind husb nd , af ectionate f th r ow ver,
’ e e Sh aks eare th e o to d cidedly alt r p , g od that bad men do lives
Th e o of a c o c afte r them . little b ys W rwi k g to a s hool established
e e o f He I I th e by a b qu st murdering old nry V I, and provisions
’ “ ” e respecting the Earl of Leice ster s bounty are still carri d out .
e old e s e He provided that tw lve soldi r , to be sel cted from four
s e o b e o e e e s pari hes nam d , sh uld f r ver sh lter d at thi hospital .
Th e th e s b e c F master of hospital mu t a lergyman . ailing in
n a Th e e are e e . findi g soldiers, m rin s ligibl to the bounty build ings are quaint old structures o f th e timber- and - plaster order of
’ c e Shaks eare s S f . E archite ture, lik p birthplace at trat ord ach
46 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
m n e o . a anaged . It was very atly d ne My old milit ry friend assured me th at he and h i s bre thren wanted nothing ; but that the late Earl of Lei cester had n egl ected to make any provision for the widows of old soldie rs ; that a fund was now being raised for that
o o e purp se ; and if I w uld lik to contribute a little something, etc .
I strongly suspect that my shilling went to keep up the fine old
e so L military br ath of my guide ; and if , it is well . ong may it be before he takes that jolly red n ose out of a beer mug for the
oo th e c last time, and long may the g d bounty of wi ked Earl be “ ” s ki ndl a well di pensed , and the broken soldier v b de to stay .
h e was T sun scarcely shone while I at Warwick, and the faint gray sky seem ed to harmonize with the gray walls of the hoary
d o castle ; the quiet streets of the fade , aged t wn ; the dim aisles of ’ f h A h t o o t e . T e n old S . Mary s ; the brown fl od gliding von tow
c e crier, whom I met in his co k d hat and a long flaming red coat,
hell a . carrying his noisy , was quite out of char cter Methought
a fo r s e - c he was far too g y uch a ven rable and time worn pla e,
a i n where there should be nothing vivid in color, or more h rsh
’ sound th an the mill - whee l s drowsy hum and th e decorous sing
a ing of staid and ncient birds .
Th e train bore me away in th e early afternoon to Leamingto n ;
i n e e O i ts to Banbury, famous the nurs ry rhym ; to xford , with
e s s great univ r ity ; and so at last I saw shining in the di tance,
’ th e s e like Delectable Mountain in Bunyan s dr am , the towers ,
a s th e e a e W the skirting b ttlement , gr t walls, whit and fair, of ind
T e se a th e e o f sor castle . hen , as one b holds at cr st wave rising
e to e e sk o e do so behind wav , miles away wh r the y c m s wn , I saw
s o n e fs and a o line lin s of roo , red black, one behind n ther, acres AR I K AND I TS A TLE 47 W W C C S .
n s e to o acre of them , to the right, to the l ft, the front ; and over all hung a blue smoke like that which rolls away from a battle
field when the day is won and lost . ” t L ? man Is tha ondon said I to the opposite . A t ” par of it, said he . O ETH NG ABO T S M I U LONDON.
HERE are several villages of considerable importance i n
E as L e c m ngland , such iv rpool , Man hester and Birmingha , “ ” town L d To but there is but one , and that is on on . go to town ,
to L is to go ondon ; and , no matter from what point of the com “ ” as L p s you start, it is always up to ondon .
People confuse and overwhelm themse lves in trying to take “ ” L Th e C in the idea of ondon as a single city . ity proper, as L m everybody is supposed to know, is a small spot in ondon co prising between three and four hundred acres ; and from that
L h as center ondon spread like a prairie fire, until it is simply a
e e man h o county cover d with houses . I hav never heard a say w
“ m L s i s m any people there are in ondon ; the u ual expression , fro ” —a three and a half to four millions few hundred thousand, more
ffe e re or less, make but little di r nce . This immense populated
we L e is gion that call ondon , is, howev r, easily traversed ; and it
difli cult c L n no more for a visitor to find any lo ality in ondon , tha f w 6 1 1 or s e . it is a We t rn man to find the of the n . } of , ,
e L i t There are many stre ts of the same name in ondon , and is somewhat important that you should know whether you want to
c o r u s go to Queen street, Ha kney, Q een street, Ken ington, as they
e do can are som miles apart ; but if you know this much, you th hardly go wrong, inasmuch as e city is also divided into parts
s W. e . C . t on. de ignated by initials, as , w st ; W , wes central , and so ( 48 ) S OME THI N G A OUT LOND ON 4 B . 9
Th e e e we L imm nse populat d country, then , that call ondon, is
l e a a e a geographical y divid d in simple m nn r ; is dmirably paved,
an d of e - well lighted at night, guarded by an army p rfectly drilled, — ’ n - i e e eatly un formed, qui t, civil , intellig nt police the stranger s
best friends .
Th e wt L o e i s o gro h of ond n in all dir ctions, sh wn by names
“ ” c e os e T e e are e whi h hav now l t their significanc . h r fi lds where
’ are n o e . B unh i ll F ss c e there fi lds ields, the Di enters em tery,
i s d a i where Bunyan burie , is miles from nyth ng rese mbling a
- - - St. i n fie lds ri s field ; so are the churches of Martin the , a d St . Gile — - in fields . T s a r the he e names once given , will prob bly always e
m i n E s a ; for in ngland thing change , but names seldom or never .
L n i s e c o don r ally a modern ity, and still a growing one . It is
true that a city called London has existe d for very many centu
s c o f a Nea r e . i , still but few tra es that old city rem in rly every
thi ng one sees in London dates back not over thre e hundred
tmi n A e To years . Wes ster bb y and the wer are exceptions ; but
’ e t a an th e Houses of Parliam nt are new ; S . P ul s is not a very
i n a A cien t edifice ; and, f ct, an merican is very apt to look with
great reverence on certain things i n London which after all are
e e s not much olde r than Boston . I b lieve the old st eque trian
L i s o f C A statue in ondon one harles I, in whose days merica had
b c o . Th e already e ome a promising y uth names of localities, as
s Lo o o s a they exi ted before modern nd n came int being, till rem in .
Why a street sho uld be called Old Jewry in a city wh e re a Ro ths
e in e son of child has been knight d, and a country rul d by the an
r s a e c Is aelite, and him elf c ll d Disraeli , is a onundrum that must
r I n e e e o b e left to Dund eary . the old tim th r was a thor ughfare
If n T L th e a e s . a called hieving ane , near pal ce of W stmin ter 50 A KANSAN A AD BR O .
ofli cer , in taking a thief through this locality, took him out of T certain bounds, the thief went free . hieving Lane no longer
c and exists , but Broad San tuary does, may be seen by any visitor t to S . James Park .
Old L n ondon , now outgrown and overgrow , was a wretched place, unpaved and unlighted , infested at night by robbers and fli f ru ans o . all sorts In fact, it is not so long ago that highway
L n men stopped travelers in what is now ondon . Messrs . Turpi ” wh o e a New i t and others, ended th ir d ys at g , did a flourishing
e business in its immediate n ighborhood .
This huge monster of London must have breathing - places ; and they exist in the great parks in the west, and in the number
e c s T less squar s and cres ent all over town . hese little squares are not, strictly speaking, public property, but are used by the people li ving around them "it is a penal offe nse to unlock them without
T a a key issued by authority . hese squ res are, however, a thing — h of beauty and a joy forever to those w o have keys .
To get about London you have the ch oice between the under “ ” “ e o ground railway, usually called the M tr politan ; several day ” “ ” light railways ; the street railroads, called tramways, and very slowly coming into favor ; the omnibuses ; and a countless number “ ” E H i n of vehicles, including that nglish institution , the ansom, which the driver rides be hind the top in a trap that resembles
’ e - Th e L mir one of Fari s smoke stacks . ondon cabman , once a
e no w e acle of extortion and impud nce, is pr tty well subjugated ; a
cab no table of distances is posted at all the stands, and there is
d. Of s absolute necessity for being bullied or cheate cour e, a small
a e gratuity is allow bl , and the cabman usually grins when you
“ ’ ’ ’ ’ n lah ss alight, and observes that he wouldn t mind avi a g o T D N 5 1 S OMETHI N G AB OU LON O .
” “ ” c wa e o b ut beer . Th e qui kest y to trav l is the undergr und , m e as . of you must stand the g and smoke In the atter cheapn ss,
’ the cars and buses rank about alike ; th e easiest and most stylish
” mode is to take a carriage ; but the best style of trave ling for a
to of i . stranger is on p an omnibus, if possible, with the dr ver
“ ” - These drivers know the country . I rode once with a red faced
- of old horse pelter who was as original as Mr . Weller, the father
“ ” “ ” mi el Th e c e we Sa v . basi th ory of this old gent was, that
of c oo or are creatures cir umstances, and are g d bad ,
“ ” All men d raski lls and o n , he reasone , were possible , as to w me \ — ’ ’ I won t e for n e e i t. but, give his theory about th m, I do t b li ve
An es omnibus driver, as far as he driv , is worth a dozen guide books .
e i s o a o a Lo o c Ther an ther gre t thor ughf re in nd n , whi h I have
e To not mention ed "it is th e Tham s . one who has seen the Mis
Hu o s e A n souri , the Mississippi, the ds n , and ev ral other merica
c e i t E rivers I ould nam , is rather fatiguing to hear an nglishman “ ” “ of T ob e e an speaking the hames as a n l river, and ev n enor ” T s . mou stream It is a very nice little river, is the hames ; but
o th e it lo ks very small at first sight, and bridges across it, though
so e e o very hand m as a rul , are n thing in the matter of engineering i i t L th e Mi ss ss i e S . o to pp river bridg at uis, or, in fact, any of the
e A c I n i n great railro ad bridg s in meri a . was disappoi ted the
’ an d e I e Thames its shor s . had form d my ideas of it from Doré s
’ c as e Har er s Weekl i m pi tures, publish d in p y some years ago . I a i ne d m o g it a swift strea , black as ink, crowded with b ats jostling
e o each other ; and that it was ov rshadowed by enorm usly high ,
e e . n on to G e c black war hous s I stead, a trip re nwi h and back, I
not saw a very cleanly . decent stream , at all crowded with water 5 2 A KANSAN A R D B OA .
craft of any sort ; and inste ad o f th e bl ack castl es of Dore s pic
tt r s - u e , o o e or e s there were r ws of m r l ss ru ty three story buildings,
i e on e e e of s l ke thos se s along the lev e a Mi sissippi river town .
T h e H e s of P e So Ho th e To ous arliam nt, merset use, wer, and a
few e e th e o o L oth rs , br ak m not ny ; but ondon from the Thames
s c ace e . Th e look ommonpl , grimy and se dy river, however, forms
o a pleasant thor ughfare, and the ugly little steame rs are always
e o filled with p ple . Something is always happening on or about
e a ac c on s n the riv r to ttr t a rowd the bridge . O e day a crowd “ ” th e a of s e h lined par pet Westmin ter bridg . T e sight appeared
to be a company of Ne w York merchants and their wives and
d on o e o d a o aughters a b at, with a carp t and s me gilde ch irs f rward,
and on c was another boat lying alongside whi h a band of music . “ ” th e o It turned out that first b at was the royal boat . I looked
- s and e over the bridge, and pu hed pull d and hauled for a place
- —n ot a e with the rest , of course, bec use a r publican American
« e s ever cares to look at que ns and noblemen and such mall deer,
’ a th e c ou o but merely to he r musi , y kn w. I don t suppose my “ ” American re ad e rs will take any inte rest in the outcome of this
' flai r ma a a of a a , but I yrem rk, casu lly, that none the royal f mily
“ ” a a were on board the roy l bo t . — — According to Si r William Jones I be lie ve it is i t is not “ ” - s s e high rai ed battlements and the like that con titut a State,
. h a n t e e . Lo and so, after all, it is p ople that m ke a city don is a
~ c I e s of i m very populous city ; by whi h m an that, in pite the
s of es e e e to b e a e o for men e number hous , th r se m too m ny p ple the
I t ce a a e ar L o th e o . r s e . . e id nces rt inly pp s in ond n as if half pe ple
e e a must walk about in the daytim whil e the oth r h lf slept . It is
a fe e e as Ne w Y mot only on w str ts, in ork, that one sees the crowd,
54 A KANSAN ABROAD . — all the babie s enough in three or four blocks to furnish half a
“ ” On as Sh aks eare dozen baby shows. such a night, p remarks,
ssulston a a a I wande red into O street, long, n rrow thoroughf re
far of E R e St. branching out uston oad , not from the gr at Pancras
e wa d pot, and there came that y an Italian gentleman with the
- a s o a . nation l in trument of his c untry, a hand org n That organ
“ ” o sa a a was d was Geo . . . , as W Martin w uld y, r ttler It a Wil “ ” — i Ro . t a e Bill , a wdy Jo of an organ pl y d none of Artemus
’ “ ” “ ” a o oos o no te of He a me N W rd s sl w m ic ; it to k no r , orma,
th e o but indulged only in the most exhilarating jigs, m st madden i n e A s o - a o g re ls . company of t ut, fresh f ced girls, wh se social — position it was h ard to guess only that they did n ot see m bad subsidized the organ with half- pence an d comm en ced to dan ce o n
Rou an d o e c t the sidewalk . nd r und th y went ; up the en er and “ ” a h e a - o a and h ands cross. T h nd rg n got excited could hardly
a for th e a to e a e b alanc w it cr nk com round ; the girls went fast r,
ds o e ing with their han up n th ir hips, and smiling from ear to e ar ; then the y oung nurses caught the contagion ; the babie s were
u e e — b arm b th e le gathered p anywh r y the , y g, by the neck, by
— f e th da Th e e th e o e e o c e . heels and j in d , p r r , in nce stre t was full of music and motion ; the few dogs th at the poverty of the
e oo o e e ase and n n ighborh d supp rt d in idleness, assisted , by barki g,
h a s e i t as e a e in t e mu em nt ; w a whirlpool of tangl d h ir, little bar “ w e e e a I t a fun e s e e e s . l g , glitt ring y , hit t th, and r gs was liter lly ” — an d I t was on e not alive h e arty innoce nt . of the sights de
h i - s An d we o e e scribed in t e gu de book . so we will st p h r , and
e e i s a ace s and ca d s r leav oth r s ght , p l the ral , parks and pleasu e
a le e a e s a e . grounds, g l ri s and g rd n , to another ch pt r E AB T N MOR OU LO DON .
” OW a L n n ? long did you st y in o do said I, the other day,
m e o - e McNall to y f ll w pass nger on the Bothnia, Mr . y, of “ ” McNall C c . C . Two l Rand, y , of hicago weeks, he rep ied, “ h ” w ich was a week too long.
was i n This little conversation held Paris, and it expresses the
A t n sentiment of nearly every merican af er he has see Paris .
t t m n In what may be ermed attractiveness, it is true tha Paris ai
Th e ff tain s an immense supe riority over London . di erence is as
ou great as that be tween a factory and a theater . If y wish to be
e e s n te d light d and amused, go to Paris ; if you wi h to be i struc d,
L n o go to o d n . “ ” Th e great sights of London are n early the same that they
ft . I n r T were fi y years ago my ea liest youth I heard of the ower,
’ n A e St s Zoii lo i cal n of Westmi ster bb y, of . Paul , of the g Garde s ;
d as e e and they are to ay, th y were in that remote p riod, the first
s e e d fi b d o . T e so t esc e thing seen by v ry visit r hey have be n of en , — that thei r appe arance is famili ar to every American i t only
for me e e remains to giv p rsonal impressions .
I came upon Westminste r Abbey th e first day I spent in Lon
e c e l was f s don, quite un xpe t d y, and I power ully impre sed by the
a e of e T t o gloomy m j sty its xterior . hose w great towers seemed to e e art e N can b e r pr sent d fying time . othing grander in its way
e A e It es ou e than the gr at bb y . strik y , it s ems to me, in the same ( 5 5 ) A AN A R A 5 6 A K NS B O D.
use way that the Yosemite does , or, to a humbler simile, one of th e great trees of C alifornia. I A . visited the bbey three times ; once on Sunday, to hear
was s At c c . Dean Stanley prea h, in whi h attempt I un uccessful a
e a short distanc from the pre cher, but hidden behind one of the
e great cluster d columns, it was impossible to catch a word or syl — ac s I as lable . In e h of these vi its may well confess the truth
d Th e A e I was disappointe . interior of the bb y, cut up into
s l c o a chapel , a ks the imposing dignity of the exteri r ; m ny of the
a e — c monuments are in outr g ous taste many are defa ed by time,
a ce i s s Th and the appe ran of everything rusty and du ty . e great
d a A names that a orn the walls are the re l glory of the bbey .
a e T ke them away, and you might as w ll raze the building to the
s n ground, for all the intere t it would possess to a foreig visitor .
As A was e o s an merican , I d sir u of seeing the monument of
f wh o H A n General Wol e, fell on the eights of braham . I fo u d a
e c e th e t huge pile of all gori al figur s, in mids of which Wolfe was — , depicted nak ed i n the same style that Ne lson appears in a
L o . bronze horror at iverp ol In my experience, I have never known a m ajor general to go into action in that light array ; and
I can conceive of no reason why any office r of any army or navy
e e E e A should be thus repres nted on a monum nt . v ry merican
- t A I t at looks at the monument of the ill fa ed Major ndre . first seems strange how fame preserves some comparative ly humble
A o an d names . ndre was a young man , only a maj r in rank, died
u e t I e oo o (j stly, I think ) as a spy ; y hav l ked with em tion upon — memorials of him in two contin ents at Philadelphia and at
L was o e o unfor ondon . But then he y ung, brav hands me and — , , tunate a combination that is not so easily forgotten in this MORE A O T LOND B U ON . 57
A - A . n n world nother monument that attracts trans tla tic attentio ,
O e e is that of liv r Goldsmith, whose name has b en made n ear and
to u a I Hi dear us by the beautif l biogr phy by rving . s monument
e L n i n is disfigur d by a ati inscription, written, spite of a protest,
t a All by tha lumbering old ped nt, Dr . Johnson . that Latin is lost to the ordinary visitor, whose heart is stirred by four English —“ ” on o O th words an ther monument , rare Ben Jonson . In e
a th e T i n L n sh dow of emple church, the heart of ondo town, there — t e a - on is h real monument flat, low lying slab, which you may “ ” r th e H O ead words, ere lies liver Goldsmith .
Most of the modern monuments in the Abbey are plain b ut
T n elegant in design . his descriptio applies particularly to th e
i r F n monument to S John rankli .
A e c Ab and e En v ry tou hing custom in the bey, elsewh re in g
of - e th e land, is that hanging over the resting places of soldi rs
I n di m f s . aded flags of their regiment the light, unstirred by an t n f and y passing breath of air, covered wi h gatheri g dust, aded
a f worn, these b nners hang as if they, too, were dead ; as if li e
n t t had departed from them, too, whe it lef the brave arms hat
n e could o long r defend them .
I would advise the visitor oppressed by th e memories evoked
A H . by the bbey, to visit the ouses of Parliament, close at hand
T o an d a u his great edifice is m dern, h rmonious and beautif l
Th e H s L r throughout. ou e of ords is the finest room I have eve
- s n e c to . N f five ee , or exp t see inety feet long, orty feet wide, t Un and o . high in pr portion , its symmetry is perfec like our halls
C and and of ongress, it is admirably ventilated, the air is as pure sweet as that of spring in the country .
A curious compromlse i s seen i n the paintings i n one of the A KANSAN A R AD 5 8 B O .
On corridors . one side are three pictures portraying the valor of the C avaliers ; on the other side are three scenes from the
r One e e histo y of the Puritans . of thes represents the d parture of — the Pilgrim Fathers for America one of the very fe w artistic recognitions of the fact that th e American C olonies were once “ h e t brightest jewel of the crown . — Th e Tower of London must of course be visited b ut the
sm e place ells of innoc nt blood . It is a dreadful thing to look u pon a block scored by the ax, where men were beheaded only
e o Our o n A a few years b f re w Revolution . certain brass plate
’ sickened me more than all th e wax horrors of Madame Tussaud s
ff on exhibition , for it marked the spot where stood the sca old which the slender n e cks of women we re se vere d by the brutal ax ; where the C ountess of Salisbury was dragged by h er gray hair to
— th e th Th e th e block for so perished last of e Plantagenets . redeeming feature of the Tower is th e beautiful arrangement of
h e e o old s t modern arms, and the d vices f rmed of bayonet , sabers,
e One cutlasses, and the lik . of these, representing the Prince of
’ o f e S Wales s wedding cake, is a miracle ing nuity . peaking of
e - E a his cakes, the cak baker to the royal family of ngl nd heats
T e C s . royal oven at he ter h n , of course, every one looks at the
- e the w e . regalia room, wh re royal cro ns, sc pters, swords, etc , are
L s e a e kept . ooking at the pl ndid crowns, one c nnot h lp wonder
e e ing at the poor quality of the h ads they usually cov r . I would advise every visitor to London to make much of the
e . s t British Mus um It is in a gloomy building on a ide stree ,
- o e o e but it is a constantly gr wing wond r . I w uld advise r ading people wh o expe ct to sto p in Londo n to o btain access to the
o a e library, which c nt ins over one million volum s, any one of T L ND 5 9 MORE AB OU O ON . which will b e handed you inside of ten minutes from the applica
h e a o occ e tion . T gre t circular ro m upi d by readers is a beautiful
th e e en t for place, and all arrang m s reading and writing are
e are s s of c ou perfect . Th re many thou and volumes whi h y can
e o se an d are e th take from the sh lves y ur lf if others ne ded, e “ ” and e A attendants are uniformly polite int lligent . liberal edu
th e e n cation could b e acquired in British Museum alon . It is a
art e . a o n e so e o school, alr ady M ny y u g p r ns may be se n c pying
Th e a n a e th e antique statues . young l dies thus e g g d were the
E an d e of s prettiest I saw in ngland, sev ral them were o handsome
n th e e e that they abu dantly justified n c ssity of the posted notices, “ ” r e n ot to o o s e Visi tors a e request d cr wd ar und the tud nts .
I n Paris all public rooms and buildings are bright with fres
o of s coes, mirr rs and gilding, while the walls the Briti h Museum
o of e e e - e A are as plain as th se a Quak r m ting hous . long step i n the dire ction of the ornamental h as b ee n made in the South
n o e c a e ac I Ke singt n Mus um , whi h is re lly a b autiful pl e . was
’ e e e r o f c s most interest d th r in the manusc ipts Di kens books . I
a w e th e cc thought I saw gro ing chang , running through su essive “ ” O T as o e . w volum s In liver wist, the handwriting b ld , full and “ f A Ta e o f Two C e o e and ree , while l iti s was bl tt d, full of inter
’ a h e a s wa e a l o . T s o ineati ns and ch nges m n mind w ring ut.
“ ” Th e c L th e oo es c old ity of ondon is gl mi t pla e on earth .
’ h e f t s c o o S . e e o n Wit the ex pti n Paul , th r is n thing that is ot e e os e co a or e e u h ith r p itiv ly, mpar tively sup rlativ ly gly . T e “ ” m e o of th e e fire i s s a e so of onum nt in h nor gr at , itu t d in a rt
Th e to ou e a e e hole . p is surr nd d by a r iling, put th r to check a
o for off at c I not g growing fur r jumping ( whi h do wonder mu h) , and o i s c o can the bott m overed with inscripti ns, stating that you 60 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
- s e go up for three pence, and that the provi ions of the p nal code will be enfo rced against any p e rsons beating carpets against the
e o f r monum nt . While in this neighb rhood, and out of respect o
e o f o s I e s my honorabl profession j urnali t, visit d Billing gate ; but
ac was as . the pl e a disappointment, and furnished me no new ide
e ce fish a It is now a v ry commonpla m rket, where the language is
e e a an d up to the av rage of that of an ditori l association , a good
e c A e a deal mor de ent than that of an m rican newsp per fight .
’ t a e a — S . Paul s c nnot be d scribed . It has all the m j esty and m — of C a c an d ore the old tholi edifices, is, withal, suited to Prot estant Th e services . only fault with this building architecturally
“ ” s on c o h is the statue the roof, whi h look like st ne hoodlums w o
s have climbed up there without permi sion .
How d e ar to the youthful heart are the recollections of New
’ H w e th e s A gate " o pr cious pot to the readers of Mr. insworth s
’ o e t s —a lurid w rks " It is but a st p from S . Paul powerful
a e e e s ff looking building, with sw et f stoon of shackl , handcu s,
a e e a A b lls, chains, and other j w lry , over the main entr nce . few years ago executions took pl ace in the open space in front of the
A e e s s s n prison . dens crowd fill d thi pace, cur i g and jostling all
A e night long prior to a hanging . sp ctator of one of the last public e nte rtainments of this kind told me th at the mob got to
c off th e e ffic kno king hats of the polic o ers, and that the hats
e rolled ove r th he ads o f th e mass like balls in a bowling alley .
“ ” now an d New it e n This is all over , g , lik many another institutio
“ “ ” es is was. of the good old tim , not what it used to
h a i s s e e i s T e tr nsition a udd n and almost irrever nt one, but it
n fe e s o t e Bunhi ll F o ly a w st p fr m his dreadful old plac to ields, where some of th e best men and women wh o ever lived and died
A R AN AN AB AD 62 S RO .
Pa e e P H R loves . St . James rk , Gr n ark, yde and egents Parks, ll n e o a o e a e . The are all ar t gether, and are l v ly pl c s scrubby tre es of the C hamps Elysees do n ot compare with th e n oble oaks
e s Lo o - I n t and ch tnuts in the great nd n pleasure grounds . fac , nothing can be m ention ed in comparison with th em' except the
New o c s o C entral Park of Y rk , whi h is unque ti nably the finest park in the world .
h H e a s a T e attraction of yd P rk is the fa hion ble drive , which — — retains because it happe ned once to ge t i t the detestable
e Row Ro e Row see th e name of Rott n . In tt n you may aris
rac a e e o e a e e toc y in full fe th r in gorg us quip ges, and att nd d by the
flunk e s Th e two c s most imposing y . things whi h mo t impressed “ th e e s me, were first, xceeding personal uglines of the hupper ” o e oo . classes , and sec nd, the l gs of the f tmen I may say under
a o the first he d , that in my opini n the countesses and duchesses of
E a e ca o a a ngl nd , in the matt r of beauty, nn t ppro ch the barmaids
a a a s Th e s o c and the waitresses t the railro d st tion . ari t ratic — fe male in England h as a tend e ncy e ither to grow thin i n which — case h e r counten ance assumes all the angles of a gun - lock or sh e th e e e co e gets stout and red in fac , and b m s a burden . I saw
th e Row on e da c a c ee e . in y a lady l d in silks, who a tually s m d a l f r a se The E e a oad o a p ir of hor s . nglish g ntlem n is generally
Th e o e s a e o fine looking . h rs manship di pl y d by him, though d ubt
s s odd an A ca The Ro n les very fine, look to meri n . cavalier of tte
Row s o hi s s e at e s affo ri es fr m addl every st p of his hor e, rding
a s - b a fine e e e s o the p s er y vi w betw n his leg of the country bey nd .
I h e ee o f s and a e o n But while av b n talking thi that, I h v forg tte
Ye llow lush and a Th e m e le i s a Mr . p his c lves . al g not usu lly a m a s - atter of interest, but the sh nk of these high bred minions MORE AB T L OND ON 63 OU .
s c e e e saw a greatly inte re ted me . Su h d v lopment I n ver . I h ve
e i i a no idea wh e re such a br ed of legs or g n ted . We have nothing like it in America .
h a e s Pa i s oo o a G e A T e ttraction at R gent rk the Z l gic l ard n .
' “ ” man can well aflord after visiting the Zoo to renounce all
“ ” T e e e . are future animal shows . here is nothing ls lik it Here
' literally droves of kangaroos ; a barnyard full of girafle s ; deer
o o o a a o e e of every descripti n ; hipp p t mi, h lf a d z n of th m ; all sorts of water fowl ; a wilde rness of monkeys ; a houseful of lions ; — th e most gorge ous parro ts and other tropical birds and all i n
e e e cc sts th e most l gant residences ev r o upied by birds and bea .
e e It would be delightful even if the monk ys were tak n away .
L r e v on n ectu es are d li ered here the habits of the animals, eve more instructive than those I have h e ard from th e lips of Major
m A n n a a a o To . O S nderso aturd ys a milit ry b nd perf rms, and the
“ c e h o r hildr n ride the elephants, w start around , of cou se, when ” th e n ba d begins to play .
The flower- beds and the turf of th ese gre at parks are perfec t e c an d ion; th y are the resort of ri h poor, and the parade
m are th e e and in grounds of the ilitary ; they b auty, the pride, ,
a. n ta e th e sa o o f L sa i ry point of vi w, lvati n ondon .
L n I have spoken of the minor squares of ondon, and it remai s
e a r i l to ref r to the outdoor st tua y, which is very plent ful and a so
Th e men n very ugly . great of E gland glare at you in bronze or
r e The e of of e i ma bl at every turn . sharp nos the Duke W ll ng ton ar of o th e a points to every qu ter the horiz n . In m tter of
e Ac e H e es hideousness, the bronz hill s in yd Park unqu tionably
d I t o a lea s. lo ks like big colore d roustabout goin g up a gang
i as sub s ri plank with a car wheel . Th s terror w erected by a c p t n e h u m io of the ladi s of Englan d . T e D ke of York colu n is 64 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
” another monstrosity . Who was the Duke of York ? was my
. He K n G I V first inquiry was a brother of i g eorge , and so on,
a e w s answer d . But why he was placed on the column I never
o da a knew, until a tailor inf rmed me one y th t it was to get him
. Th e Ne out of the reach of his creditors lson monument, i n
T S t o rafalgar quare, is no bet er, and four m re beastly lions never
ca L c were st than those of andseer, whi h form a part of the
Th e structure . statues of Palmerston and others are better ; and
e s now I come to speak of anoth r, to me mo t interesting of all .
I lodged most of the time while I remained in London at a
C th e house in Burton rescent, and in little square o r crescent opposite was the statue of an old bald - headed man seated i n a
Th e a chair . l st day of my stay, I went into the inclosure with
- e C n A - i n - my fellow lodg r, aptai rthur Shaw, the brother law of
T e e hack ray, and r ad for the first time the inscription . Ignoring “ ” - s the break line of the epitaph, this is what it said
“ h o n a w o n 25 t Se . 1740 e 23d Se . 1824. J h C rt right, b r pt , di d pt ‘ Th e fi rm co s ste and n swe a oca e of e sal sufi ra e , n i nt u rving dv t univ r g ,
me e a e ese n a o o e a o and an n a a a s. q u l r pr t ti n , v t by b ll t, u l P rli nt He was th e first English writer wh o Openly maintained th e i ndepe nd ence of th e n e S a es of me ca and a o h i s s n s e me s U it d t t A ri , lth ugh di ti gui h d rit as a n a a offi ce i n 1776 e se e th e mos fl a e n os ec s of ro v l r, , pr nt d t tt ri g pr p t p fessi on al a a ceme h e o ef se to aw h i s swo a a s th e dv n nt, n bly r u d dr rd g in t
n e f an s e e ri si g liberti s o oppres ed and struggling p opl .
“ I n a e commemo a o n of h i s fl e e e e a e a i o gr t ful r ti in xibl int grity, x lt d p tr t i sm o o n con s on al n ow e e and i n s ce e adm a o of th e , pr f u d tituti k l dg , in r ir ti n
n em s e es of h i s a e e s s a e was e ec e l c u bl i h d virtu priv t lif , thi t tu r t d by pub i
’ s sc o n ea th e s o w e e h e c ose h i s se u and me o o s ub ripti , n r p t h r l d u f l rit ri u ca ee r r.
o c old e wh o With this n ti e of an forgott n friend of ours, carried hi s wise old head far in the advance of the marching column of
e es n Lon . humanity, we close thes first impr sio s of don PARIS AND THE PARISIANS .
WO we e ks in my own society at Londo n had disgusted me
c a e I o to o with my asso i t , and res lved abandon the s litary “ ” t trave li h C e c o c e e sys em of g, try a ook x ursi n ti k t, and pr pare
f a e e e o m to answer a firm tiv ly, in futur , the first qu sti n of ytravel “ in e o - n H e e g f ll w cou trymen , av you be n to Parry
a to Ne I proceeded by r il whaven , and thence by boat to
If e e Dieppe . any of my friends think of crossing th r , I would
’ o C a Bo ton s s advise them to borr w pt . y uit and swim rathe r than
e a I Not o to take the st amer th t did . a f urth of the passengers c th e e a and o e e ould get into littl c bin , c ns quently th y remained “ ” “ n I was on e h o o e o deck . of those w thus had a c ld d ck rung h on . T e o and in them sea was very sm oth , this was a crowning
for e e was o c for - mercy, I know th r not ro m on de k a wash basin .
Had a e o Jon h added himself to the passeng r list, he w uld have
e —"not c had to go ov rboard from any mali e at all, but merely to
e o e of mak r om for the r st us .
I n o f o F a the gray light morning, we saw the c ast of r nce, — th e t e e . o e e c ff ou e and own of Di pp It lo k d xa tly blu , old h s s, — and all like the levee of a rathe r se e dy town o n th e upper
- . I t a ac of so e Mississippi is re lly a watering pl e m note, and
s e T an e lately had been vi it d by M . hiers on le ction e e ring tour ; “ ” but the watering part does n ot show from th e dock where we
- n e . men and la d d We saw some sad looking in uniform, a very ( 65 ) 66 A KANSAN AB ROAD .
a c e a s a of th e s l i n t ll cru ifix, wher t ever l Briti h , who ive mortal
“ e of o e a to e a e f ar the P p , beg n b w il thems lves about the super ” sti ti on c . e we of the ountry In due tim , passed through the
o . T e e o a m custom h use h r was n thing duti ble in y valise . If
e h ad e a e e o ther b en, as m asur of ec nomy I should have handed
“ ” - ac offi a e s hi m over the grip s k to the cer, and h v a ked to make
of s to F R a present it, with my compliment , the rench epublic .
Th e ofli ce r c a e s s in h rg of per ons, as di tinguished from prope rty, was a young man with fierce eye s and a mustache like two cork
“ ” e A I n le esh ? t ' scr ws . ire you g he said ; o which I responded i n “ i ” e e F Ou . exc ll nt rench, It was a dreadful thing for one to say “ ” a Re o s whose grandf ther fit in the voluti n , but it aved time at
e F c A e any rat ; and beside, the ren h think m ricans are only a
“ ” s variety of the be ast Anglai .
“ ' e oo a s b ufi W t k bre kfast at what the Briti h said was a y.
Th e practice of uselessly ill - tre ating the French language at once
ce Th e e t E commen d . place was k p , I think, by an nglishman, and all the waiters understo od English ; but that did not prevent “ a e e a Garson - their being ass il d with such r m rks as, g, wooly woo ” bring me some j amb o ng? Th e re sult was distraction .
We a as got into the c rs at l t, and started at a very moderate
c a s Th e F a a s are not s pa e for P ri . rench r ilro d very trong in the
a e a a c e m tter of spe d, and the m n gement la ks nterprise in the way
c s e of dit hing train , running into op n drawbridges, telescoping — s s - i n c can i n other train , and uch like whi h my own country , as h h e e se s o t e . T e c e e ev rything l , di c unt world ountry pr s nts a
e o F o e gr at unif rmity in this part of rance, increasing , h w ver, in
o c e fertility and beauty as you get away fr m the oast . Mil after
e o u see a e th a c o s a mil y rural vill g s wi th t hed r of , and sm rt little E PARI I A PARI S AND TH S NS . 67
e fire - f i n towns with whit plastered houses and red tile roo s , and terminable long straight rows of tall straight poplars ; and little
n e a e c ff fields about as big as a tarpaulin, u s par t d by fen es, of di er k t ent colors, and making the slopes of the hills look li e vas
e a or patchwork quilts . In a wid v lley, rather where several ‘ o R i ts valleys come t gether, you see the fine old city of ouen, with
d s o o o ff cathe ral in the mid t, lo king m re like s me hoary old cli
Yo u o than a house made with hands . f llow the windings of the
i o e o s s Seine, a br ght stream, which s m h w alway make me think
F c e e h e o of a rosy old ren h g ntleman wh n feels go d after dinner,
s o c e e . c e it is so mo th and lear, and agr eabl Very mu h of a g ntle
i s e man the S ine ,
se e e o e ou e ou are You , b f r y have gon far, that y in an indus
s co . o e e a trion untry You see c untl ss tall chimn ys, m rking the
a s T e sites Of manuf ctorie . her are no loafers about the stations you understand how the French paid off the enormous war indemnity . B t On e comes upon Paris sudde nly . u a few moments before
ss th e of o a o s you pa line f rtific ti ns you are in a wood, like tho e
“ around the to wns of Indiana ; but that is about th e last touch of ” n e ou se e for Pa o a c atur y , ris is the m st rtificial, as it is artisti , of
s As oo as ou are at s a ou e to e citie . s n y the t tion , y b gin not the — diffe re nce betwe e n London and Paris the superior height of the
P r a o se e e s a isi n h u s, th ir whit ne s and brightness ; and then they
th e one A are lit up by sun , the same we have in merica, and
c o ce o L n whi h has not yet been intr du d int o don .
Passengers trave ling with C ook e xcursion tickets go to the
o e s I t H e C o uilli ere h t l designated, and wen thus to the ot l q , in
Rue C o uilli ere n o t o Rue e c R the q , far fr m the J an Ja ques ous 6 8 A KANSAN A R D B OA .
o Rue — seau , which in its turn runs int Montmartre, which but I
e a a th e c suffici entl clear presum I h ve m de lo ality y to my readers,
c a and will not parti ul rize further . I suppose the Hotel C oq ui l
r on e - a - li e e was a horse hotel, but I have gone f rthe r to four horse
h e establishments and fared worse . T landlord spoke English
o was Pui s asu c th e very well , th ugh his name g , whi h first class in
ma Th e French y stand up and pronounce . l andlady was one
f th e c - e of F c o plumpest, and bla kest ey d ren h women, and had
c a n e a the sweet, o xi g voice, p culi r, I think, to the women of
c e e e I Fran e, for I have nev r heard it els where, as a rul , and have
e Th e listened attentively all my lif . chambermaids wore white
and e c aps with frills, were as ruddy as appl s, and as stout as
c S o of s horses, and ould carry a arat ga trunk to the top the hou e
dra m Th e without w g a long breath . table waiters spoke Eng
e e s F c lish, but pr tended that they und r tood my rench , whi h they
d not I c not e o di ; yet ould h lp admiring their p lite duplicity .
H C o ui lli ere ma Such was the otel q , and long y it exist. If my
to w c ountry ever sends me dream the happy hours a ay, save
to a a n when waked up dr w my salary, in the l borious positio of
F c I a e th e fla A Minister to ran e, sh ll transf r g of the merican
h e e ui lli e re Embassy to t Hot l C oq .
During my stay the hotel was fille d with English people
e a s e most of them very pl sant a sociates . I think, howev r, the
th e s F a an I English know lea t about r nce of y people . have
h e P e A o o s poken of t e British f ar of the op . n ther bugaboo am ng
s E o e the religiou nglish is V ltaire . Why p ople should worry a bout Voltaire who cann ot re ad his works in Fre nch and who
e a e E s I n ot e have not r d th m in ngli h, do know ; and , b sides, the
e a o saw h i s n . T ma has been dead some y rs his I kn w, for I tomb
70 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
fe red new n a change into something and stra ge . I have seen carrots and beets grouped with as much skill as ever were living
as figures in a tableau . It w more than a market to me ; it was a — — an a c L was museum art g llery as mu h so as the ouvre , which not off"Th e i I n far market art sts were all women . France the “ gray mare is the betterh o rse ; in Switzerl and she is all the
Th e - horse there is . Parisian market women were as polite as
c — e as du hesses that is, as polit duchesses are supposed to be, for
a Of e o a I cannot spe k th m from pers nal cquaintance . In this
saw c o f F a and F e market, then , I mu h r nce of rench people . B
e f Ho C o uilli e re for I le t the tel q , I knew by sight all the shop
“ e th e e o oo a mm keep rs in n ighb rh d , and est blished a co ent vous ” ortez - vous ce a s wh o a p acquaintan with a b keres , , with infinite p ti en ce I was and politeness, studied out what trying to say on the “ ” e c e and e F e curr n y qu stion , explain d to me the mystery of r nch
h and t e o c . money s us, entimes francs
An d o h s o in the desult ry way in which I am writing t i , I c me
— f a a to another matter that o l nguage . I verily believe th t many
h o F c se e people w would like to visit rance, stay away be au th y dre ad to go to a country where they are ignorant Of the lan
A F c e a guage . very little ren h is c rt inly a great help ; and how
a F ever badly you may spe k it, the rench are too polite to laugh
e fo an " at you, and mak every ef rt to underst d but it is quite pos sible to get about and e nj oy life without knowing a word Of the
n e An s e a French la guag . a tonishing number of p ople, in P ris
E O e in e s e e s . at l a t, sp ak mor or le s nglish You begin, fttim s, the
e e to F street, with f ar and tr mbling, put together rench enough to
wa to c or a i n ask the y this pla e th t, to be met with an answer
do not t your native tongue . I think tha a Parisian ever failed to recognize an Ame rican or an Englishman at a glance . HE PARI I A PARIS AND T S NS . 71 — I n London you can see a great deal by paying a sh illing for — “ ” i t but Paris is a free show. It is worth a journey there to
o . I n L n to look at the shop wind ws ondo , I went show places and to parks ; in Paris, I never tired of walking about the streets .
’ n ot o h ow e o b oul a I walked, I do kn w many tim s, al ng the great e
a . n and vard , to the arches called Portes, St Marti St . Denis ;
e C s E e i n and then th re was the hamp lys es, and a long walk the
'
di re cti on alon th e Se . Of en c o n other , g ine the rides tak , a c rdi g
‘ m th e famous to programme, and which embraced ost of places, I shall not spe ak here .
— ' — I kn ow n ow that we are speaking of external s hardly a a ’ L . c e handsome church in ondon , ( St P ul s being, of ourse, abov
I o o f cavil or question, ) and do not kn w an ugly one in Paris .
Th e c L n statuary in public pla es in Paris is always fine ; in ondo ,
. One s o as I have said, it is usually frightful wearie , h wever, of "I o L V . T i hi the repetiti n , in Paris, of ouis hat big w g of s
e i n e was not and com s ev rywhere, and yet he a very great man ; all the cunning of the painter and sculptor has failed in making
a It wi - h e e him look gre t . is all g and high eled shoes, aft r all .
Th e o n only one of the old kings, in st ne or bro ze, that people
c oo n o Hen I wh o on take a se ond l k at w, is ri V, sits his big
for m on o Nsuf horse, as he has a long ti e, the P nt . A great deal has been said about the improvements of Paris,
’ i e i n Na n I II s e n carr d on poleo time, under the dir ction of Baro
Haussman Th e n Of e e s h as i n . ope ing up th s immen e avenues
c e e wa . not many as s mad the city handsomer, but not al ys I do think th e immense sweep of street vie w that leads up to the Arc
s T e c as n de Triomphe is hand ome . h re is su h a thing overdoi g
- s a e a . the wide street busines , and making bl k , dreary perspective 72 A KANSAN AB ROAD .
T o e e K ns i n T h s who have se n a as avenue, opeka, know what I ' n T mea . he only thing to do is to fill up these imme nse long
holes with rows of trees on each side and through the center, as they do in Washington .
Th e e o s C E ee great r s rt of Parisian , the hamps lys s, owes very
Th e little to nature . trees look diminutive and there is a great de al of gravel to ve ry little grass ; consequently it looks better at
T e night than by day . h n the almost blinding light of long rows
a of gas l mps, all over the grounds, especially about the little
th e ac theaters, make pl e quite brilliant . Gas is used without
t . Th e F e c s int or measure in Paris r n hman loves light . — c n ot s But I find myself drifting ba k in mind to Pari , but to
f Th e s the people O Paris . mo t prominent human beings every
i n P n where aris are, first, soldiers, with their everlasti g blue backs and s red leg ; but I do not wish to talk about soldiers now . Next — to the soldiers come the workme n the me n wh o wear th e blue
wh o o blouses, and have the reputation of thr wing up barricades on or o T are more less provocati n , and fighting behind them . hey ,
Of — e e physically, a fine lot men far sup rior, it se med to me, to “ ” e T e are e E the soldi rs . h y always cl an ; as the nglish navvy is T — always dirty . hey are intelligent you see a man with a blue blouse quite as o ften reading a newspaper as the man in a black
A e - coat and silk hat . fter these come the middl aged business
c as e a men , su h you see at the Bourse, and it s emed to me th t they
ffe e s h ad wa of E s a ct d the tyle, or it in some y, ngli hmen ; but per haps men who make money have a family resemblance the world
e E c a e Lo over . I know that in Wall stre t, in the x h ng in ndon ,
a ou se e e . o and in the P ris Bourse, y faces very much alik Y ung
F s c t e fine e renchmen, e pe ially the studen s, with th ir , sharp featur s, HE PARI S AND T PARI SI ANS . 73
ma fte of a A de me o n think the best cl ss of young mericans, and I ch e cked half- a- dozen times an inclination to speak to such on the
c presumption that they were my ountrymen . My brief visit dissipated the last slight remains of the impres
e — n sions rec ived in childhood impressio s probably inherited, for,
a o E n i i r hundreds of years g , the nglishma set up an mag na y “ ” F o C renchman , wh m he dubbed Johnny rapaud, a meager,
- e wh o black, thin l gged creature, screamed and gesticulated like a
n h God wh o T i i s w o . mo key, did not believe in , and ate frogs h s th e F E s o and e n f i renchman of the old ngli h c medies, has b e a th — fully C opied and reproduced on th e American stage and he is
n his just as natural , and no more so, tha the stage Yankee, with
“ ” “ ” a n wh o t i n t r al and tarnation, words that I, spent my you h
New E n n o e le ngla d, have ever heard seri usly utter d in the who f course O my life by anybody .
Th e F — Pa — renchman the risian , at least is as unlike this car m i cature can . I n a e as anything be f ct, it always appeared to
o e t o e that, while animated in c nv rsa i n , the f atures of the men I met e e o an s n Of n ss in Paris, wh n in r p se, possessed expres io sad e . — This may b e the effect of th e overwhelming affl i cti ons the flood of sorrows which has rolled ove r Paris within the last fe w years ;
e n n r but I am inclin d to think it is perman e nt and atio al . I neve saw o I o a Parisian b isterously happy . once saw, th ugh , a very happy company ; it was a wedding party at th e little village of
- - le of n . JOinville Pont, just outside of Paris , on the banks the Mar e
Our a d e p rty had finished their inner, wh n the wedding party
e o out arrived, and sat down to a long table und r an arbor lo king
on th e . Th e e was and ne river tabl neat bright, and there was wi ,
Not th e on . a plenty of it only bridal p rty proper were hand, 74 A KAN AN A R D S B OA .
n all f " but appare tly the relatives on both sides, rom old people
n Th e — dow to children . father of the bride was there a n oble
a and s and looking man , with h ir mu tache as fine as silk white
' as . T vi n ordi natre snow hey all drank the , which forms a regular
as e d o part of the dinner as much br a , and numerous b ttles of
s W was e — champagne beside ; and hen the dinner ov r, the bride a — sensible - lookin g but not pretty girl m ade the entire circuit of
e e c e the table and kiss d each of the gentlem n on both h eks, while
o e s the bridegr om xtended the same courte y to all the ladies .
T a F e sa his was the h ppiest lot of rench people I ev r w, and there was n — Of e e no oise, no vinous excitement none the f atur s of the “ ” A n e s o merican tear, nor of the maudli d mon trati ns that occa
’ si onally come in at the close of a long series of New- Ye ar s calls i n our country .
And a ff i n I saw nother and very di erent scene, which the same
o e o . was class of pe pl t ok part It in the great Parisian cemetery,
As we —an the Pere la C haise . were riding out English friend and myself we passed a humble funeral procession ; the gentle
all n sun men all on foot, and walking bareheaded, in the burni g ,
e a s Our a as th y had done, perh p , for miles . c bman lifted his hat
a e to e e as we passed . We h ppen d be n ar at hand wh n the com
ac th e e - e fe a e a pany re hed grav sid ; and a t r the pr yers w re s id, one gentleman after an othe r advanced an d sprinkle d holy water upon
ffi Th e c o u the co n . prin ipal , the only m urner, I tho ght, was a
e wh o o e of e young pri st, for a m ment gav way to a burst gri f; and
as e th e c it w a thing to look at and rememb r, way in whi h, without
s a e ac a e any demon tr tiven ss , e h man adv nced and gav his hand to that lone mourner .
s F e c They say, notwithstanding all thi , that the r n h are pro I A D THE PARI I AN 7 PAR S N S S . 5
ma foundl s . . t e y in incere It may be, or it y not be I am, it is ru , — an American One Of a very tale nted and able race of men ; but
e n it has not b en give me, the power of knowing the hearts and
- c souls of my fellow creatures . Omnis ience is not one Of my s a n I se e a peci lties, co sequently only judge by what I and he r ; and F s so, while the rench may be, as my clerical Briti h neigh “ b or C n i t to remarked, unrestrained by hristian influe ces, seems “ ” u F me, sing my lights, that the rench are a gifted, a brave,
u o s - t and r t a co rte u , a deeply unfortuna e g eatly misunders ood pe ople. THE H SIG TS OF PARIS .
O attempt to see in a week a city to which six months might
o a be dev ted , is a discouraging t sk, but it is a still more hopeless undertaking to tell in one chapter what might well make
Th e e a volume . r ader will, therefore, be charitable enough just to o not c nsider this, as a description , but as a memorandum of
fe n some w of the many thi gs to be seen in Paris .
Most people fe el a curiosity to know what traces remain o f the I C . e i n ravages of the ommunists should say, v ry few . It is deed astonishing h ow rapidly and thoroughly damages have been
Th e a c T e es repaired . p la e of the uil ri is still a ruin , but one hardly n oticed it in connection with the vast uninjured pile of
f e An e scafloldi n as e the Louvr . imm nse g w alr ady up prepara
de Th e C tory to rebuilding the Hotel Ville . olumn Vendome is
are i n th e in place again ; and there , heart of the city at least, no
th e c a e traces of destru tion of priv te prop rty .
I am at a loss which to pl ace first among the attractions of
at Paris . I suppose, however, that out of ten persons eight, least, would say the Louvre ; but the great historical edifice Of Paris is
N e s c r certainly otre Dam . Its po ition is pi turesque ; its histo y has formed a prominent feature in many romance s ; ye t when I eu tered o f e e s it, by one thos unlucky m ntal impres ions which strike
o t us at the most inopportune m men s there came to me, not the d visions of the earlier and more glorious days of the cathe ral, ( 76 )
A A AN A AD 78 K NS BRO .
a s n for tapestry . It is stoni hing how the varying expressio s of
a an b e woven T e are a the human counten nce c . her some t pestries
so C e o th e Go c in Wind r astl , fr m belin, depi ting scenes from the
F e e story of the Golden le c , in which the passions of love, joy, grief and despair are as faithfully portrayed as if done by th e greatest painter on e arth .
h e c c s T various ar hes and columns with whi h Paris abound ,
h e Arc T i s t have bee n often described . T de riomphe the mos
c s e s magnifi ent ; but one get a trifle tir d of military monument .
’ Th e names of Napoleon s victories are repeate d a thousand times
e —a to s to o s to n ov r ttached treets , b ulevard , bridges, and fi ally afli x d all of e Of o se s o c e to so rts monum nts . c ur I had o ner se a thousand monume nts to Napoleon than one to Louis "IV; b ut on e would like to be re minde d o ccasionally of something besides
s blood hed .
I passed several times th e C h amp de Mars the site of the
n e o o . Th e n s n ext int rnati nal exhibiti n buildi g , which were bei g
o e on rapidly pushed f rward , are situat d both sides of the Seine .
Th e i s ffa T on art building an immense a ir, in the rocadero, a rise
a Th e for o of ground f cing the river. buildings ther purposes are
e e c e b e T e e - directly opposit , and conn t d y a bridg . h s last named
are of h s e i s a . T e ce ne buildings built iron it a m gnifi nt o .
One of the pleasante st days of my life was spent in a little
c ce th e o s de o o e Lo c a St. trip whi h embra d B i B ul gn , ng h mps,
C o e e an d h Se e e a e . T e l ud, V rsaill s vr s, in the ord r n m d morning was e and th e a e co e e th e e o d lightful , f ir w ather v r d xpediti n , with
“ ” th e exce ption o f that part o f th e home stre tch betwee n Sevres
e a e — not e a Lo o and Paris , wh n it r in d with the r gul r nd n drizzle,
e e A e a e —no t of co s as but a g nuin m ric n show r , ur e, as violent we 9 THE SI GH TS OF PARI S . 7
K u o s e o i n have in ansas, but such as wo ld be c n id red a g od rain
e o On e e e r Pe nnsylvania and that r gi n . could sp nd a week at V
l — c th e on e sai les not in the town , whi h is one of dullest arth
a i n th e but in wh t have been turn royal, the imperial, and are “ ” i h n o a . C s ow the nati nal p laces and grounds ommon th ng , wit
co a e th e s a o something un mmon bout th m, attract mo t ttenti n ; and n n I e e was e o e e es othi g, b li ve, look d at with m r int r t than the state
a s are c carri ges and harnes , which kept near the pala e of the
e e t e s n Little Trianon . Th y were c r ainly v ry gorgeou , and , shi ing i n th e sun e as of o , th se moving m ses g ld and purple must make
e h royalty for the time an attractive thing. W were shown throug th L T saw e a e e ittle rianon , and beautiful pictur s, and st tu s, and furniture ; but somehow these empty state apartme nts always
e e o r impress me with a s nse of drearin ss and discomf rt. I neve
a co e an s w a state bed that I thought I uld sle p in , nor imperial
’ — chair that wouldn t make my back ache but I suppose kings have some kind of thrice - illustrious and most se rene backs adapted “ to the furniture" I be lieve I wo uld rathe r take mi ne ease at ” n n i n e of e all mi e inn tha any palac th m .
h e e rs es a o i n t T Palace of V aill , a place f m us history, is mos re e c c a —F En markable for its imm nse olle tion of portr its rench, g
n A e s e e . li h, and v merican I actually saw what might be t rmed an Ame rican historical picture ; it re presen ts Washington and
i s n of c As Rochambeau d cussing the pla atta k at Yorktown . a
e e n ac o E e n t rule, th re is no r cognitio of the f t am ng urop a artis s,
e th e o N A past or present, of the xistence of c ntinent of orth mer
Ho e e i s a e of s e th e ica . wev r, ther in the Pal c Ver aill s picture I h e v s o th e ave m ntioned, and se eral portrait , am ng them iron face
d n n s an bristli g white hair of old Ge eral Jack on . 80 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
Th e porcel ain manufactory of Sevres is an interesting place
e es s n like the revised statutes of the M d and Persian , it ever
an d . e o F changes It is a gov rnment instituti n , every rench gov e rnmen t No a r l supports it . m tter what may happen in the evo u
i nar a o A t o w o S . y y, they g on with their p ttery at evres change of govern ment only produces a ch ange in the initials on the tea
o e e ou can a cups and saucers . By l oking at th s , y alw ys tell who was uppermost when the particular teacup i n hand was manufac ure d s a o e e o th e t . In thi manuf ct ry may be s n s me of works of
o La i Palissy, king of potters , whose brief bi graphy by martine s one of the noblest tributes to a good and faithful man ever written .
Lo I have alluded to the uvre, and with it may be mentioned th e to Luxembourg . It would be idle attempt any description of
s L the e immense collections . In the uxembourg may be seen a very large number of pictures familiar to Americans through
d e - A c an . a opies, engravings, ev n wood cuts mong these are sever l
’ ’ R r e R s s n of osa Bonheu s pictur s, and egnault great eque tria por
a o e trait of the f m us Spanish g neral , Juan Prim .
ne de s to C O day was voted to a vi it hampigny, the scene of the terrifi c fighting of th e 30th o f November and the 2d of Decem — G Ducrot a o N 1870 . ber, eneral , with f rce consisting of ational
“ ” o i s m e s Guards and M biles that to say, co parativ ly raw troop
— e f e e e of th e t attempt d to orc the inv sting lin s Prussians, expec
h e en . i ng a similar attack on t e other sid by G . Bourbaki We
e o c Ducrot drove out al ong the turnpik r ad by whi h advanced,
a Th e and where he l ost men in going le ss th n a mile . vil
l es lage of C hampigny is on the lower p of a hill, the crest of
F Th e which was finally reached by the rench . hill is covered THE SI GH TS OF PARI S 81 .
e - e e o Th with orchards, high ston garden walls, and scatt r d h uses . e n e e a e e e c e arrow, ste p streets of the littl vill g w r the s en of a
th e a e o th e e to dreadful fight, and pl ster d fr nts of hous s this day
‘ s all th e c of - are pattered over with tra es musket shots . Most of
’ e Th e the houses we re riddled with sh ll . new tiles showed where
h ad e n e ffe c e th e e ofs b ut s repairs b e t d in shatt red ro , many hou es i . We se e C Pa s are still in ruins in hamp gny, if not in ri , what
ar e . c o e s e Th w m ans Mu h of the pr p rty is for al . e ruine d
was ce e owners cannot rebuild it . It from this s n of desolation that we went back to the little village and saw the wedding I
s e o e have de cribed in a pr vi us letter, where everybody s emed as
i f Ducrot as Du r happy as Bourbaki had helped out, and if c ot had not been obliged to fall back with hi s half - frozen army to
ne a o Ch starve in Paris . O of my comp ni ns in ampigny was a
e a s e s e So C a h ad Scotchman , many y r a r id nt of uth rolina, who
a He th e C e e . served in onf der t army and myself, for the first
th e e s a - field c we time, had pl asure of in pecting a b ttle in whi h
e had no personal inter st .
Of course I visite d various places of amusement . I am — ashamed to tell how much I was affecte d for that is the — word b y th e beauty o f th e grand n e w Opera house and the
' e T e s difler o e and E opera I heard ther in . ast , h wev r, an nglish
es I was e man who was pr ent, and who thought a cl rgyman in
“ hi e th e o e e e c t n disguise, object d to pera becaus th r was too mu h singing an obj e ctio n which struck me as having a flavor of
e s o a e s a co freshn s and riginality about it . I ft rward he rd a untry man of his growling because there was n o striking mountain — e H a wh ere « I s e h ad scen ry in oll nd , pre um , he expected to find A AN R OAD 82 A K NS AB .
“ ” “ ” The F I was nif E at it . most renchy play saw the J rrant
— ’ h t e a a E e t e Porte S . Martin theat r dram tization of ug ne Sue s “ ” r c e J e w. c S oman e, the Wand ring I oc upied a eat in the par
a o of quet, which, in consider ti n two sous in hand paid to a bus
e o Th e tling Fr nch woman,had a cushi n on it . gentlemen around me s wore blue blouses and had a weakne s for garlic, a vegetable “ ” e T I do not hanker aft r as a rule . hey also h ad a habit of
e an d e s climbing ov r me going out betw en act , thought I must “ ” to e t e a Pardon acknowledge, in justice th m , tha th y alw ys said, ,
“ ’ ' ” N a S tl vous lai t . or p , as they did it otwithst nding these draw
l was e e n ovab le a c backs, the p ay v ry j on c ount of the excellence
Ro th e th e n . Th e of acti g part of din , Jesuit, was played by
- e was e . as M . Paulin Meni r, and a wonderful pi ce of work It w
to c easy know the politi al sentiments of those about me, for “ e e e C o wh r Blanche inquires of the old soldi r, unt of the empire "
” “ ' “ ? and ne bet An tse i . e. what is that, Dagobert he responds, U , , ” e e e e absurdity, ther was a gen ral ch er and laugh . B sides this, I
to c C E ee I o went the ircus in the hamps lys s . believe s me of the
o E gentlemen in the ring were my c untrymen ; they spoke nglish,
one of o a o e at any rate . But the m st st nishing incid nts at this
He sa r as at . ci cus w that I laughed the clown did not y anything,
a was e h i mso b e which , perh ps, what mad funny ; but, that as it ma I th e s e — y, laughed till tears ran from the e ag d eyes for the
— at —i n first time a circus these last fifty or sixty years .
T sa c e b ut here are a thou nd other things whi h interest d me,
e c or e of which I will not stay to d s ribe, att mpt it . If any my
e e e e e T readers v r go anywh r , th y will go to Paris . hat is one
e t e of the things certain ; and when they g there, th y will be THE I H TS OF PARI S 3 S G . 8
s c b e charmed, and, if they will, in tru ted . I trust all will able
a o to go, and with a somewh t higher m tive than that avowed by
o - wh o A one of my fell w citizens, , in the midst of the tlantic, ex “ ” “ s b e P pre sed his anxiety to in aris, for, said he , there are five
e A s and or six places where th y have merican mixed drink ,
’ ” they re waiting for me there . W AY S ISS D S .
” T was on a summer evening that the Doctor and I bade adieu to Monsieur and Madame and the concierge and the chambermaids and the waiters and the bootblacks at th e door of th e H e C o uilli e re ot l q , and set out on a tour to and through
A - Of- all- Switzerland . man work attached to the house of Puis gasu accompanied us to the station with the ostensible purpose
’ our a — of attending to b ggage, or rather the Doctor s a task for
ea F Th e — which we f red our rench inadequate . waiter i n con — n ecti on with everybody attached to the station contrived to go
s raving mad for some minute , during which interval the baggage must have checked itself and got into the baggage- car of its own
e e e accord , but at any rat it got th r .
It was with a faint twinge of h ome sickness that we saw the
a e e f lights of Paris dis pp ar . We had r sided in that city or a whole
e s e For week, and f lt like old re id nts . my part, I had wandere d s o th e e a e as e f much over sam ground, th t it se med if the Stre t o
C S t Dr T o n the Good hildren, and the tree of the y ree, to say n thi g
f of o Ro s h ad e - o the Street J hn James u seau , be n my play ground
h ad ac e o from infancy ; I . grown att hed to the young f ll w who hung abou t the great marke t n e ar th e Hote l C oq ui lli ere with ” a e c c o s e ca P uvr Diable in onspi u u l tters upon his p, and grieved
a H that I should look upon his f ce no more . owever, the best f we th e riends must part, and so rolled away in purple evening
86 A KANSAN AB R AD O .
man — E then address them both in nglish . By following these
e - directions, even a d af mute may travel all over Switzerland with
e perf ct safety . “ ” Bale was laid out before that curse of our modern and arti — “ ”— fici al society the city engineer was invented" Th e word ” a c e h grade was unknown in the inf n y of Bal . T e necessity of digging down trees and leaving some houses high and dry and “ we t h others low and , for the sake of getting things on t e estab ” li sh e d a e C grade, was not app rent to the arly ommon C ouncils of
C a Bale . Where the re tor had made a hill it was supposed to he
’ ' e e e b e en sufl r d intended as a p rman nt arrangem nt, and has e e to
c o - fi e remain as su h . If the hill ascends at an angle of f rty v de “ ” e All e e . gre s, that is the grad the stre ts of old Bale are paved “ ” New E with what are called cobbles in ngland ; and very steep, “ ” o c t o and queer, and cr oked , and obbly are the stree s af resaid.
Th e o s e ro fs , al o , of Bale are as high and steep as practicabl , and
e e their surface is broken by num rous windows, which have ste p
o an c as little roofs als . Sunlight is not much of obje t, it costs nothing ; and so there are many streets in the town that enjoy the
for th da luxury only a little while in e middle of the y. Some of
s a e we s e the hou es are fl nk d with to r , and hav a rusty and resolute
e c s h appearance , b ing reli s of tho e c arming old days when battle
s s and e axe , crossbows, catapults, lings , a kettl of Greek fire were
- e conveniences in every well regulat d family .
At e e a a o o s Bal th re is f m us minster , built heaven kn w when ,
was and in it there once held a council , which sat I do not know
h ow e a s e e do . many y r , and d cid d I not now remember what I “ ” thi nk they shipped one Po pe and elected anothe r ; but my
a e Th e memory f ils me now as to d tails . minster is now in the S WI SS DAYS . 87
Th e ho F - han ds of the Protestants . guide, w spoke ranco Ger
- E was m man nglish, very courteous, and took us into the ar ory,
- fields i n i n where are weapons from all the battle history . I
s quired for relics of several lively conflict , and he unhesitatingly
’ I e I e produced them . believ if had asked him for a shi ld and javelin used at Bunker Hill he would have brought out the prop ert Th e c e y. guide pointed out to us a urious wood n head, which,
c if I corre tly understood his polyglot remarks, was intended to indicate to th e preacher wh e n th e congregation had had about
- enough . By concealed clock work the eyes of the head are made to swing aroun d and the tongue to protrude in a manner sufli i entl n e c y awful, I should thi k, to mak any preacher stop in the “ ” middle of his discourse and get leave to print . I remember
m c e and little of the inster of Bale ex ept this wood n head , a stone
the wh o knight carved on front of the edifice, had run his spear Th . e lengthwise through a dragon dragon looked sick . I should not omit to say that the Bale I have been describing
T a is the old town . here is a new town , as sm rt and handsome as
e could be d sired , with the usual boulevards and parks and statues ; for c n Bale is a very ri h tow , made so, in part at least, by the E ’ f o St. n manu acture of ribb ns . lizabeth s, a fine moder church, At was . erected at the expense of a single citizen Bale, one sees
“ ” R R fine the hine, the blue and arrowy hine, a very stream , and
s deserving of all the ver es which have been written about it .
L we L e e eaving Bale, went by rail to uc rn ; and on arriving
e H C c e I c there, w nt to the otel des ygnes, whi h hot l selected be ause
I t as a the name reminded me of the Marais des Cygnes . . w p
roachi n a e was l h n I p g sunset, and slight show r fal ing, w e looked out of a window and saw a rainbow which eclipsed all the other AN AN A 88 A K S BROAD . rainbows of my life ; for it stretched like an arch from mountain
L Fo C la to mountain, and the bright ake of the ur antons y beneath .
The th e o o e mountain of neighborho d is M unt Pilatus, nam d in
’ s e . i s a o h honor of Pontiu Pilat It n ble eminence, and w y Pi late s
e e name should be conf rred on it, is an unfathomabl mystery . I h to Pi late vi lle Nerosb ur ave known wns that might be named , or g,
r New S e o odom , with perf ct propriety ; but why this fine moun t s a e o ain hould be named ft r a great hist rical criminal, is, as I h e me ave said , quite a puzzl to .
“ e H C We repos d in peace at the otel Marais des ygnes, and r th e a e h ose with the sun , l rk, the early bird that catch s t e wake
- i ful worm, and all the other early r sing things, and looked out
L n . Th e upon ucer e and the lake former is a handsome town,
th e e - and old, of course . In old tim , it was the gathering place of those Swiss mercenaries wh o sold their swords to foreign “ F e l p owers . rom th nce they marched over the hil s and far ” — a fi h t . Th e as way, to g perchance to die virtue of these men w
e s fidelity ; the bargain mad , gold for blood, and they tood to the agree m e nt to th e bitter end "and to this virtue of theirs is erected at Lucerne the most poetical and impressive monument I have
e s ever seen . In a qui t spot, a little out of the town, ari es in the ‘ midst of surrounding tre es a bold cli fl;and i n the face of this has
e T been carved a gigantic lion, d signed by the great horwaldsen . — Th e poor brute has been mortally hurt you see the broken — spear in his side but in his d e ath agony he rests his great head
on e on e e and mighty paw the shi ld of the hous of Bourbon , as if
ff i s e making one last convulsive e ort to defend it . Thus pr served
of wh o u the memory the Swiss guards were killed in Paris, p holding the cause of their adopted sovereign . But poor lion I DAYS S WSS . 89
n " poor, brave old lio thou mightst have found a better pillow for
a e thy dying head than the shield of that f lse hous . — We decided to take a voyage on the lakes for what is really the same body of water is called in different parts by different n e e th e ames . I d spair of giving any idea of the b auty of
e The A n scen ry . only merican lake scenery I have ever see
c L approa hing it in beauty is that of ake George, but there the
—at e such s Th e majestic mountains are wanting l ast mountain .
Th e voyage was a continuous delight . last few mile s were upon th e L for e wat rs of the ake of Uri, famous its connection with the hi l E a story of Wi liam Tell . very headl nd has some story con nected Te and e e as T with ll yet people say ther nev r w any ell .
At Fluelen A o we left the boat, and proceeded to ltd rf. We would like to hear anybody dispute the existence of Tell in Alt
e e dorf, for her is his image in plaster, standing on the spot wh re
’ B en on he stood when he let fly at the Davis his son s head, and, “ ” to e make assurance doubly sure, the spot is marked wh re the
A c l A ld T n boy himself sto od . ni e little vil age is ltdorf O ow and at the inn of the Golden Key you may ge t a dinner which
Th e o would have softened the heart of Gessler himself. t wn is i n e n e a on a very narrow vall y, the great mou tains str tching aw y either hand, and on one side the town has climbed up the hill a
wa little y, and there are little vineyards and orchards and gar
i n e e e dens, and the wood which no man may cut a tr , becaus the trees stand be twee n the people and the dreadful avalanche which would soon make an end of Altdorf ; and high up amid the half hi dden stone walls and the maze of green trees and vines, is the
c e we monastery of the C apu hins . It was high noon wh n clam
o sun bered up to the little retreat, and the mell w light of the 90 A KAN AN A R AD S B O .
N0 e t we th e shone on all . man gr e ed us when entered court
s on yard, but the black gown of two of the monks lay the wall, as if their owners had h astily retre ate d on hearing approaching footsteps . In the plain chapel there was no occupant, and we n l arm o c oted on y a carved and hand pr je ting from the pulpit,
n s . and holdi g out the cros We went into the garden . It was
e e a on the ste p sid of the mountain , and the earth w s held i n
c s a a n pla e by terrace , gainst which pe rs were trained, and the
a as c n there were evergreens carved in f nt ti shapes, and a fountai
n to e all all and e that sa g its lf day and night, below, s en through
s e th e s e c s A the tree , wer pir of the chur h and the roof of ltdorf.
New How old and still , and how far away from our World it
e On e c e e h ad s emed . in this pla e might w ll b lieve there never
L n or been any uther any trouble in the church, and that there was c none now ; still, as I lambered down a narrow path to the
e S i e villag , the w ss guide ask d me if I was from the United
S o ce "Yes tates, and said that he had n lived in Peoria , he had
L s e h e o a . lived in Pe ria, and lso in St oui , wh re would like to
a to c live still, but his health had f iled him, and so he had ome
Hi s n ot ee i n e back to Altdorf. heart was , it s med , th se moun
‘ I co far see nor h e th e tains, which had me so to , did care for song
’ C a c c o e a of the pu hins fountain whi h I had st pped to h r, but he
a s was h ad b e Pe or . L rather at oria, perh ps St oui , which larger,
He o e a A P o o . a g od d l , than ltdorf and e ria put t gether talked
A e a we o t th e c w ce of m ric till g to hurch , hich had a magnifi nt
c th e o m altar, and pictures, whi h man fr Peoria said came from
Ro o a a e an d e e on e me, and then he t ok us into ch p l, th r , sh lves,
e s s e of S ss a s s w re the kull , the guid said, the wi gu rd in who e honor the great lion at Lucerne h ad been carve d . I DAY 9 1 S WSS S .
on a A In this little voyage the l ke, and in the visit to ltdorf,
for o o and s me hours after, the D ctor and myself had the benefit H K A so . . . of the ciety of Mr enry M nox, of St Paul , an merican ,
E o . I e m i n agreeable even in ur pe inf rred , fro what th s gentlema w L L told me, that hile in ondon he did not stop at the angham, “ ” was l and yet he indeed to me a man and a brother, fu l of cour
d o Th e A e c tesy an abounding in informati n . m ri an name would be far more popular abroad were there more well - informed and
St. l unpretending travelers like my Pau friend, and fewer loud,
- se bumptious, purse proud ignoramu s .
Two things a man should n e ver do if he can help himself
’ firstly, he should never eat anything he don t like ; and secondly, he should never go anywhe re merely because it is the fashion to
Th e e I as R do so . s cond of these rules violated in cending igi, and e Th e remaining there to see the sun rise the n xt morning .
a as th e ascent by r ilway was very ple ant, and sunset view was
. a we c glorious In rem ining all night, ho ver, my onduct is ex
’ plai nab le only by the answer to Archbishop Wh ateley s cele “ ” b rated e s ? conundrum, Why do s a donkey prefer thistle to hay — Th e hotel was the stupidest in Switzerland one of those n e ver sufli ci entl - off - e s y abused places where they fire the dish cov r , and “ ” De i n a T bring in the courses to the ad March S ul . hen it was — — cold as it always is and the humane proprie tor has posted notices that guests will not be allowed to carry off bed - cl othes i n
o e s man e which to see the sun rise ; in th r word , no is allow d to “ ” him N0 wrap the drapery of his couch about . , not if he
K o e e Off. w freezes his bunions Mr . irk, in his th r ise excell nt his
C o on R S tory of harles the B ld, says that, igi at sunrise, ucces sive groups of giant Alps rise out of the night and receive on 2 KA A A R D 9 A NS N B OA .
” s As their icy brows warm ki ses from the radiant dawn . far as
e my experience goes, I emerg d from the gossamer sheets and gauzy blank e ts of my Rigi bed at the first notes of the Alpine
n ce . It was hor ( gratuity fifty ntimes) not a cloudy morning, as “ ” e a th e s n is gen r lly ca e, but there was no radiant dawn the su
e o I t as sneaked up from b hind a mountain and kissed n thing . w “ ” flat e cold, as well as stale, and unprofitabl . So much for sun
u rise o Rigi . A pleasant sail in the bright morning brought us back to Ln
A and cerne, and we went thence to lpnach and to Berne , so on to fair Geneva .
94 A KA A D NS N ABROA .
clifl a edge of a four thous nd feet high , have never impressed me .
“ ” w e And e So I did not do S itz rland . y t I would say for the
t a an d e benefi of constitution lly timid lazy p rsons like myself, that
a n o t b a tour through Switzerl nd is a solutely dreary and joyless,
n h ob - eve without an alpenstock or nailed shoes, or a knapsack, or a cane with the name of all the elevations i n Switzerland i n “ ne a e c scribed on it . O can ppr iate the purple peaks that tear k ” the drifting s ies of gold, though looking up from the green val
’ ley that rests like a bird s nest amid th e glorious mountains that
e e n th e n ' whi te rise, first green , then purpl , th gray, and shining
h a s h e e Not f t e t t N w . c o like g e of Jerusalem a harm blue lake,
o - or white and waving, rainb w girt waterfall , or mysterious gla
e i n cier, or winding road , or village set like a j wel the brow of
a o o a the mount in , need be l st, even th ugh the tr veler be the very
e e e quietest p rson in the world , and d stitute of the l ast ambition “ ” H ” for doing anything . aving unpacked my heart of these “ ” e e views, I will b gin our trav ls in another paragraph .
L e e e b A ch H From uc rne w w nt by oat to lpna . ere we were
a s e e e e e to be tr n ported by dilig nc to Bri nz . I b lieve th re were
e e c c of e e som dilig n es in the rowd v hicl s, yet due diligence had not been used in getting enough of them ; but there was every
“ ” “ ”
e ou e s. e as an thing els that goes wh el If variety is spic , it w
o - e e And se e uncomm nly well s ason d lot hor s were ther , too, of
” “ ” e a o f c e c c Ea En ev ry v riety ar hit ture Gothi , rly glish (very “ ” - H c so on o Pre . early) , istori , and Why any d ubt should exist
o W a Te l A o l e ab ut illi m l or rn d Winkelried , I do not und rstand ; there we re certainly horses there that re me mbered both those gentleme n .
There was a very large number Of passengers to be divided S WI SS DA YS . 95
n Th e around amo g these luxurious equipages . assignment was
ff e e e ected by calling out the numb rs, of which each passeng r held
ne No I o . w . at least , and the calling was done in German knew “ ” G e we I h ad m but one erman num ral, z i, which heard entioned
“ ’ ” e c 0 in my native country in conn tion with glass lager, and how were my companio n and myself to know wh e n th e numbers
“ 8 s e e e ? H e was e , re p ctiv ly, w re called er a languag les ” “ ” e I t was fix ed —a c son indeed need d . fran slipped into the
and a c o e f c hand of the gentlemanly urb ne aller s lv d all di fi ulties .
ffe e a I t was n o a Somehow, numbers made no di r nce fter that . p “ ” " reci ab le e our e e n ofl p time till we wer in k rridg , and rolli g , and we h ad th e pleasure of hearing the nume ration table in Ge rman
n a I t e e goi gon as long as we could he r anything . r ally do s not
a e ffe c a S e r m k much di ren e what is your vern cular in witz land , so
e c- l you sp ak fran y.
e o —u It was a long ride over a magnific nt r ad p, up, all the
wa e ce e . y for mil s, though at times the rise was imper ptibl We — passed fromthe shores of one little lake to those of another a
s Th e o s one sort of rosary of lake . m untains rose clo e on the
th e th e e l on hand, and just across lake or narrow gr en va ley, the
Th e a th e e o other . b se of mountains is covered with pin s or ther
e e e are for st tr es, and th se protected by law, as they protect the
th e a N e ou country below from aval nches . everth less, y see the
c s s e a - i long tra k of these de c nts, like a se m on the mountain s de, at
i I t s at e not nfrequ e nt intervals . is astoni hing what angl s trees
h s a e e e will gro w. T e pines t nd thick wh re it s ms as if the earth
s s A o th e e s mu t infallibly lip . b ve lin of fore t, extend in many instan ces miles of pasture land ; for where the trees give up the
o . attempt, the humble grass pr vokes grim nature to a smile 96 A KAN AN AB ROAD S .
Sometimes the grass grows to the very summit, but generally the
- o n of a s sky line is br ke by a succession sh rp peak , having that saw- like appe arance which in our mountains is indicated by th e “ ” . T are ca S s word sierra hese sharp points lled by the wi s, “ ” i s c needles, and it said that they are rumbling and breaking
e n away ; and I have an id a that in the good time comi g, say in a
of billion years or such a matter, the face nature will be calmer and brighter and more peaceful ; rain will fall where is the burn ing d esert now ; the volcanoes will be extinguished ; and in that
e E e golden tim , when earth is what den was, and ev n church A choirs have ceased to fight, the rugged outlines of the lps will “ ” and r have greatly changed, the needles will have lost thei t poin s, and the victorious grass will wave in triumph where now
- T is the bare and lightning splintered rock . his description and A prediction applies only to the lower lps ; of Mont Blanc, the
a a Matterhorn , the Jungfr u, and th t style of mountains, I have
e little hope . Immense in surface, travers d by tremendous gorges,
c ee the dark shadows of whi h may be s n miles away, crowned with
e eternal snow, cold , proud, and looking down on oth r mountains, w they ill never be ameliorated , but will ever remain magnificent
E s i n solitudes, broken only by adventurous ngli hmen with a pass o for breaking their necks .
o e Scattered over these l fty pastur s of which I have spoken, are
—c w t the Swiss chalets urious houses, hich , perched in these lof y
- How places, look like martin boxes . the people get up there, or,
ot o o . having g there, get d wn again , this deponent kn weth not
ne These pastures are roamed over by the famous Swiss cattle . O authority says there are about cows in Switzerland, and that they are valued at one hundred dollars each . I never saw
98 A KANSAN A R AD B O . clouds or azure sky ; everything I ever imagined in waking hours
o a a e . of f rest, d le or stre m, was th re
s We looked our fill at this beautiful pro pect, for our vehicle m o h ade a long st p at a little inn just at the ead of the pass, and
en e th e m e all the pass g rs save Doctor and ys lf got out . Nothing
It a e as . w s w wanting ev ning, and it was still .
l Th e e and e descent b ut road is very st ep v ry crooked down the ,
a c e e e is an dmirable spe im n of engine ring, and w went swiftly
e th e e and saf ly down to lak , where the steamer was waiting . We
s a passed the la t hours of d ylight on the lake, fortunately having
see c light enough to the catara t at Giessbach .
’ It was 9 o clock at night when by boat and rail we arrived at
’ a c s Interl ken , and here we realized the for e of Bi hop Heber s “ ” s e s A line, Where every pro p ct please , and only man is vile . more unaccommodating and insolent lot of brutes than those wh o “ ” s ff H n formed the ta of the Victoria otel at Interlaken , I ever
- T had the ill fortune to meet before or since . hey were too much
“ and e for us, we sought safety, r st and a light, and food and fire,
H R s at the otel it chard, where we were treated with the utmost
n huma ity . F irst impressions, with me at least, settle the business, so I saw
a e n nothing gr eable about Interlake , left it as soon as possible,
Th e and regrette d that it was necessary to stay so long. prettiest
o I view ab ut nterlaken , as Dr . Johnson thought about Scotland, is the road leading away from it .
da us T Anothe r little l ake voyage on a lovely y brought to hun .
e At this little town is located the artill ry school of Switzerland ,
L N a S and here ouis apoleon, then a capt in in the wiss artillery,
as passed several years . It w curious to think of a man for a time I DA Y 9 S WSS S . 9 so prominently before the eyes of the world as having once
s - f- - e vegetated in thi out o the way place, and one wond red in what dreams he may have indulged of future greatness when living his
- e hum drum life among th se mountains .
o Evening br ught us to Berne, a place which had for years
s e s for v e - pos essed an int re t me, as ha ing be n the birth place of a
A - A e very dear friend . queer, Middle g sort of place is old Berne .
e e I never saw a town that seemed so full of, say the fourt nth cen
Th e a e ts e tury . names of the streets, and the spect of the str e th m
i n e n - all ca e selves, as seen the veni g time, rri d one back to the old
Th e i s th e T a days . promenade of the town err sse, or the cathedral yard . It is surrounded by a parapet, over which you look down a lofty wall into the chimneys of the houses of the mouldy - looking
An c o set streets along the river bank . ins ripti n, in the parapet,
e h tells how a wild student jump d his horse over at that point . T e
a e o c student esc ped, b came pious fr m the sho k, and was, in after
b ut not s days, a clergyman ; this did es entially benefit the poor h w o was . horse, killed by the fall
o m s Berne is particularly rich in t wn pu ps, or fountain , of which there are enough to fill simultaneously all the iron tea
R K E c kettles of all the ussians in ansas . a h of these fountains is
a o One ornamented by a graven im ge of s me kind . represents a
fier e - o h c looking repr bate devouring an armful of children . T e “ ” n e wh o N you g on s are waiting to hear the call of ext, appear
o e o to fully c mpr hend the horror of the situati n . I suppose this t e e o s atue is intend d to k ep in order the y ung Bernese, but those
s e e ffe om solid specimen of Swiss youth app ar d quite indi rent . C
e e saw e ing up str t I a boy behind a tree with his yes shut, count “ i n i l n H g v gorous y in German . I knew at o ce the game of ide 100 A KAN AN A D S BROA .
” ” and or a H seek, , in my Western vern cular, igh spy . This boy “ ” was e . th e D the blind r I learned from octor that, in his boy
“ s e I r i cker hood in Scotland, the impres iv formula of y, ury, y, ” ann . th e e c , etc , was used in counting out first blinder, xa tly as
a . s ff in the United St tes Men and nation may di er, but boys are
e e c th e same in v ry ountry and every age . I have no doubt that “ ” J acob and Esau played mumble - peg according to the rules
a governing the g me in our time . th Berne has a famous clock . In e fullness of tM e a man hits m a bell with a hammer, a procession of bears arch out and back a a e - g in , a cock crows twic , and a rummy looking old king nods
O e his head, p ns his mouth, and moves his scepter with each stroke
s f o . O n o c o the h ur cca ionally the ki g fails to perf rm his fun tions,
h e n ot a t bears do appe r, or the cock is out of order ; but on the
s o f off occa ion our visit, man , bears, king and cock all went with
e charming r gularity . “ I think the original location of the story of Go it husband, ” a e e e for go it bear, must h v been B rn , the town is not only full
e a e of bears of wood , stone and m t l, but sev ral live bears have
for for o To been kept ages in a pit the benefit of the corporati n .
n t se e Th e go to Berne and o e the b ars would be unpardonable .
s e a e I c s bear wer not as sav g as ould have wi hed, and seemed sat
fied — a a o i s to eat carrots though the inh bit nts inf rmed me, with
a e s e e En gre t pride and pl a ur , that the bears had once eat n an g
h e d lishm an who had tumble d into t en.
Berne derives its princip al distinction from its bears and from
a th e its being the c pital of e Swiss C onfederation . We visit d the
“ ” “ ” “ ” h e S and H s C apitol . T enate ou e were very neat, hand s u I ome rooms, tho gh saw there no such portraits as those which
102 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
h o kicked the beam, in spite of a devil w was trying to pull
n . On s them dow the other ide, a devil, every line of his coun tenan ce was c marked by business energy, arrying off a quantity
n w e of children in a basket to a boiling cauldro , hil another devil was - blowing the fire under this kettle with a hand bellows .
Two e score people had gather d in the church, when the ring
th e ing of a bell announced that organist had taken his place .
O was h o t c F e utside , toiling, dirty, ommonplace, ugly r iburg ;
o s within was dimness and co lness and stillne s , until the music
c o c o broke the silen e and w ke the e h es of the vaulted arches .
o so With the first n te, the outer world, drear and hard , seemed
we e th e e far away, and wer in gr en valley amid the everlasting
n . I t a mou tains was sunshine and song for awhile, and we he rd ,
a o A near or far, full or f int, the n tes of the lpine horn . Then the thund e r muttered in th e distance ; then the pine - tops shivered and sighed ; th en a mysterious wind seemed to swe ep through the
and e was space above our heads, th re the sound of falling rain .
A e s non cam the storm in all its fury, and the organ cra hed and
o e roared till w men turn d pale ; and then, most wonderful of all,
of o one heard above the fury the storm , voices like the v ices of
lo — c a human beings st alling, c lling, calling in notes of entreaty
No and despair . other instrument made by man have ever I
h ad human as F heard, that such a voice the great organ at rei
T e o a burg . his wonderful p rf rm nce lasted an hour, and closed with a clangor as of the shutting of silver doors upon music that
e had com once and would never come again .
a t e e Everything had a new light f er w l ft the church , and we
“ ’ ” were miles away be fore we ceased to hear in our mind s ear “ ” ( for I suppose the mind has an ear as well as an eye ) the S WI SS DA YS . 1 03
was music of the organ . It a preparation for the beauteous sight L e L when ak eman, shining in the sun, burst upon our vision,
- th e . skirted by vine clad slopes We passed by Vevay, and that reminded me how we read in our geographies that Switzers estab
\ 1i sh ed n S n a tow of Vevay in the United tates, and entered upo
the cultivation of the vine ; but the ge ograph ers ’ di d not tell how
h u t ey s cceeded, and it is a long time since I have heard of them .
Now L L i that I have reached ake eman , I might as well im
’ “ tate the laudable example of C aptain Scott s coon and come ” Th e n i down . cou try is as well known to everybody n the “ ” United States as Down the Santa Fé road is to the readers of “ ” T . F C n opeka newspapers rom Byron , with his Prisoner of hillo ,
n i e i dow to Joaquin M ll r, every travel ng poet has had his say
” e L nn n about Lake L man and its shores . ausa e and Ge eva sound
’ “ ” “ ” to l a T L C everybody ike M rk wain s ancaster and enterville, H L in the oly and . “ ” T i n and here is such a th ng as the cream of a jour ey, it doe s
not to off. T was f far take long skim it his process per ormed , as
n was we as Switzerla d concerned, by the time reached Geneva .
C o we at We went to ham uni , of course, and looked attentively
t not n Mon Blanc, but it did impress me as did a hu dred Other
i n ’ views Switzerland . I believe I would rather see Pike s Peak .
Th e to C m was i n ride from Geneva ha ouni, by diligence, rather
teresti n for one - s A g, of our fellow travelers wa an merican lawyer
wh o had traveled before ; knew French and German ; acte d as
n e all was t on and i t rpreter for hands, and a capital alker any
me - every subject . It did good to feel that my fellow citizen was
th e s brighte t man in the diligence .
A few f C n n hours su ficed for hamouni and Mo t Bla c . I will 104 A KANSAN A R AD B O . return to C hamouni when the present village has been justly de
an stroyed by avalanche for extortion, and will ascend Mont
Blanc when it can be done by railway . These last words may seem to indicate that some feeling of
i n regret followed the little journey I made Switzerland, but this
not . On t is true the contrary, it lef bright memories, which will brighten , as do apples, when come the colder days . Should I live — — to be very old which heaven forbid when the sun above is n o longer bright and warm ; when the few faces of the dear ones
t I o n lef shall be dim ; when shall f rget the thi gs of yesterday, even names that I have repeated a thousand times ; even in that
s b e la t scene, when the poor old faded curtain is about to fall, I lieve that I shall live over again the days of my pilgrimage “ ” s . young days, bright days, Swi s Days
1 KAN A A AD 06 A S N BRO .
F n n n o unc n s . was To re ch hor with ertai ound He from urs, he
—a i He said town overrun with priests and monarch sts . thought
MacMah on n was a umbskull, and as much of a tyrant as he knew h ow T e i e as to be ; hi rs (s nce dead ) had been of some s rvice, but w no longer useful ; Gambetta was a firebrand ; but it was when he
N n spoke of th e late L. apoleo that the bald head of my vener
n able frie d grew red as fire, and he denounced him as the
He C " L greatest criminal of the age . said harles and ouis
- n o r Phillippe were good e ough men pers nally, but, like all othe “ ” An man h o se t s kings, were pretenders . y w him elf up as a
was h n king an impostor . W en pressed for an answer as to his ow favorite statesman , he replied that men were nothing to him, that — he went for principle a rather vague way of talking pendi ng
n c an election . I mentio this ase because it was the only instance in which I heard a Frenchman approach anything like a political F conversation ; and this was not in rance, but Belgium . I fancy,
’ however, that the discontented tone of this old gentleman s talk
Th e F — refle cts the general feeling in France . poor rench they have struggled for liberty 10 these many years ; have shed their blood for it ; but they are as far from it as ever . It needs some
“ ” thing besides taking down the word Imperial and substituting for it the word “ National it takes something besides the words “ ” L E F e to iberté, galité, raternité, carved in cold, d ad stone, make a people free .
’ Th e F - s country in northern rance, which, in real estate agent “ ” i n parlance, would be called gently rolling, becomes flat Bel
m Th e o r giu . r ads are lined with trees, fai er and larger than the F trim poplars that divide the landscape in rance, and clouds of AND I TS B ATTLE - FI ELD 1 B R USSELS . 07 smoke rising at diflerent points along the horizon betoken the
o s e presence of manufacturing t wn , for B lgium is one of the great est produce rs of manufactured iron .
Brussels at first struck me as a dre ary to wn . Paris having set
n E c d the fashio , the rage in all uropean ities is now for boulevar s
i n e n e - im these, th ir ewn ss and vastness, produce a Sahara like
e . T e o e e pression on the travel r h y will l ok b tt r a century hence,
i e s sm e when their mm n ity is reduced by the now all tr es . Brus
a a c h H l c . T e se s, however, improves on a qu int n e otel de Ville is a fine old building, and the little square is of historical interest,
H e e h for in it Egmont and orn w re xecuted . T e square is a
e - and o th mark t place now, the day I saw it was fl wer day, and e
was a whole space radi nt, mostly with fuchsias , which appear to be
Not far m H a favorite flower i n the old country . fro the otel de
‘ “ Ville is th e house where was heard the sound of re velry by ” n . c o s . ight It is now a lub h u e My indignation was stirred , not
far e e a t . H from her , in visiting a famous lac manuf c ory ere the
- c e for marvelously beautiful la e shawls, which s ll almost their
Th e all . and weight in gold , are made work is done by hand,
’ so slowly and painfully that it makes one s eyes ache to see the
Th e “ e me women at their toil . woman in charg told that four or
s e c o e e c five year is required to l arn , during whi h the w m n r eive
e a t e art no wag s, and that f er they have acquir d the they receive
munificent sum ran c a o e the of two f s or bout f rty c nts a day .
T me c e a e c a o th e hey wanted to sell a po k t h ndk r hief, b ut size of
e e - e for i - five a s c a she t of l tter pap r, th rty fr nc , but I de lined . I was l n c e and s unwil i g to support su h a syst m of extortion , hall
an se e a as I never wear y Brus ls lac s long live .
Th e e ss s u cathedral of St . Gudul , in Bru el , is a very beautif l 108 A KAN AN A D S BROA .
building, and has an advantage, rare in these old edifices, of
N a standing on high ground . otre D me is on an island , and “ ” e A T o Westminst r bbey in the hames b ttom ; but St . Gudule is
o e on the slope of a hill, and surr und d by a high platform, so wide “ a Th e that carri ges drive around it . interior is filled with the ” di m e u o of—so m h r ligio s light so ften spoken seldo seen . T e
- carved wood work of the pulpit is wonderfully fine ; the figures,
- A e life size, representing the expulsion of dam and Ev from the E T Garden of den . here is a monument in this church, which is surmounted by a figure of C harity giving a little child a piece of bread , that is full of poetry and sweetness .
Th e B public grounds of russels are not extensive, but very
s Th e c hand ome, and much resorted to . ity, of course, is full of statues, the finest being that of Godfrey of Bouillon , king of
' e wh o was n . T C ru Jerusal m , born i the neighborhood hese old saders e re look well in bronze, but th y we an uncomfortable lot
Fe w e when alive . more bloody b asts have ever lived than the R L H adored ichard of the ion eart. I am glad he and his outfit
o are all c mfortably dead and buried .
I o Prior to going to Brussels, had f rgotten all about the battle
e - of Waterloo, but being so near the sc ne of that once celebrated
~ e d b action, my recollections b ing arouse y seeing the house where “ ” o soft eyes lo ked love to eyes which spake again, and hearing
“ ’ ” car also the rattling o er the stony street, I resolved to go out “ ” to the locality from whence the order for the first four to “ ” ’ forward and back was interrupted by the cannon s opening ” roar . E You go out to the field by an nglish coach, driven by an
E h o nglish coachman , w assured me, however, that the horses
KAN AN A D 1 10 A S BROA .
e reason , disbelieved in the doctrine that W llington made this
e . e world and all that th rein is We walk d together, and in the
th e a as not rear of the rest of p rty, so to interrupt them in their “ ” I “ ” devotions . think the guide regarded us as separatists , and t added occasionally to his usual speech , for our benefi .
Th e fie ld of Waterloo h as not been greatly changed in appear T ance since the day of the battle . here are some lines of trees e wher there were none then , and a bit of forest near the farm of
Hou umon t o go has been cut d wn, but the roads are on the same
of A lines, and the appearance things generally, on the ugust day
i t th e as when I beheld , was essentially same on the June Sunday
m t I t c when the armie s e . is in its outline very mu h like the
’ o country lying around the n rth side of Burnett s Peak, near To
a " e - pek , though in better cultivation as a rul , a gently undulating b ' region , covered with grain and grass fields, undivided y any “ ” es for i n fences except scanty hedg , the herd law prevails Bel gium .
u s Looking over the field , it wo ld be hard to see why it hould
e e have been select d as a place to give battle, wer it not for one
a i s m Hou oumont position, and th t the far of g , which was held by
a - o the English from first to last . Im gine a farm h use in New
E old the s ngland with the orchard adjoining it, and all building ,
e - s hous , barns and barn yard urrounded by a heavy, solid brick
ee e o c o u wall ten f t high and ov r a f ot thi k, and y have an idea of
A e e o . this positi n gainst anything but artill ry, the plac , if reso lute l — — e o y defended as it was ought to be h ld, one to f ur, as it
as To add th e e was c En w . to the strength of plac , it overed by g “ ” h lish batteries further back in the prairie , w o could fire over it
— now e — i n th e F c into the timber gon which ren h advanced, AND I TS B ATTLE —FI ELD 1 1 1 BR USSELS .
th e pretty well covered, I should think, to a point close to wall . There appears to have been no atte mpt to breach the wall with
e F a e e e artill ry, the rench fin lly cont nting th mselv s with shelling
t i c a was set the in erior, by wh h the little ch pel on fire, partly
d wh o e a suffo burned, and the woun ed , had be n pl ced therein ,
d You can c - th e to is cate . see the harred cross beam over door th
N0 day . description ever conveyed to me, as did the sight of the , Th e F . c e place, the savage nature of the fight ren h surg d around
for - a T e this inclosure and rushed it like wild c ts . h y penetrated
n T n - to th e orchard, but were drive out . hey fou d the barn yard t gate open, and got inside a few feet, but were forced out ; the ga e
of th e s s was shut in their faces by two men , and then one as ailant
l th e e e l c imbed to top of the gate and f ll riddled with musk t ba ls .
The c was - th e o bri k wall loop holed ( penings remain) , and a
as E platform w built on which the nglish stood and fired over .
For th e F o rench, it was like charging the steep sides of a d uble
u Th e decker wi th all her g ns blazing . outside of the wall looks as h ad - th e F fire if it had the small pox, but ren ch was thrown
i l an d e e e it away alike on the br ck wa l the iron men who d f nd d .
Th e a l e e e an d e w l crumbled h re and th r , and here th re a soldier
l e a n or th e s o e a T fel , but neith r the w ll Briti h s ldi r gave w y. hat
c o N A bri k wall stayed the onward pr gress of apoleon . gainst it
e e hi s eagle dashed hims lf and di d .
is e h Th e . T e a I b e place curs d, I think s me family own it,
l a n o o e . ieve, that did in the days of W terloo, but l nger reside th re
T s e l old F a race r main of the forma rench garden, with its b lus
n nd e Th e a e radas ow a . t fallen , ov rgrown with grass old pple tr es,
me n u n whose roots wind about the bones of dead , have a mo r
o . e l ful lo k It is a dol fu place, which the summer sun cannot 1 12 A KAN AN A R OAD S B .
w brighten . We ent away from there, and walked to the high m ound of earth erected to commemorate the victory . This is
e e c ou ascend d by a flight of steps, and from th n e y can see every
field— e w part of the here y llo , here brown , here green , here m read arked by the straight line of a dusty , here traversed by a
e - o - e scrubby hedg row, d tted at intervals with white plast red farm
re d ofs All houses with ro . the places, which on one Saturday were nothing and on the evening of Sunday had gone into his
e e —La H La A tory, w r in sight aye Sainte, Belle lliance, and the
e e e rest . Wh n w got out into the open ground the guid grew ani m of t ated . He described the charge the Imperial Guard , the las “ ” “ ff F . z e e ort of the rench Zey were command, said he, by
n l hi m r nd Zh e eral C . su re are ambronne Zey ca l on to , but he zay, ‘ Ze An d h Guard die, he nevare t en he added, E “ looking significantly at the nglishman and myself, Victor ” s n Hugo zay he zay somethings el e . O top of the mound the guide went over the story with all the animation of the “ deline
” “ ” e h ator of a panorama . Vare you sees zo e leetle black ooshes, “ h e z e S z e Enni skee lene rs. N said , stood cot Grees and Ven apo
’ ‘ Ah z ose s leon he saw em, he zay to Marshal Soult, , gree horse , z ose terrible gree h orses ; if I had four such regiment I would i ’ ‘ E ’ z e z s . take vorld . But I take zem in time Mon mpereur, ‘ e E hi i n zay Marshal Soult, you no know zo e nglish ; you cut m
’ As pieces, but he nevare give up . you stand on the mount
c there stret hes away, almost from beneath your feet, a straight
T was road apparently level with the surrounding surface . his “ u once the s nk road of Ohain , in which, according to Victor
H o F was ug , the head of the column of charging rench cavalry
n n swallowed up . It then ran alo g the bottom of a sort of tre ch,
1 14 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
putrid people with crowns, who have since been ignominiously
c n e e a ki ked i to the str ets within my r collection . If the c use was
a of ? bad, what is to be s id the reward In the partitions which
a E a ? N Th e followed, wh t did ngl nd get othing. miserable Bour
s e bons she bol t red up had nothing to give . What remains now “ ” e E o of the stat of ur pe, as arranged after the battle of Waterloo ?
N E a . N othing ngland, after hunting the gre t apoleon to death,
e th e found an ally, and was proud of him , in that miserabl fraud, “ ” e E N o neph w of his uncle . ngland, to crush ap leon , allied her
R a - E self with ussi , and to day about half ngland thinks a bloody war necessary to check the designs of that same Russia on the
o E British possessi ns in India . ngland fought at Waterloo to — “ ” keep up the ancient order of things to support the Def gratia — style of monarchy and who n ow believes in that style of gov “ ” ernmen t? Who re verences the first gentleman in Europe now?
En T Who, like the glishman hackeray, has portrayed the idiocy “ ” or the wickedness of the Four Geo rge s ? Everything that
n for e s E gland fought at Wat rloo is di reputable now.
If the design of the enormous expenditure of blood was to
N i was Th m n t . e a wh o obliterate apoleon, not a success , from a
- c wa sub lieutenan y, made his y without one faltering or hesitating
s step to the throne of empire, could not be extingui hed by Water “ ” loo, nor even by the practice of studiously calling him General
n E m Bo aparte . ven the high road over which ad iring British
- tourists go to Waterloo is a monument to his energy . It is but a
o A u step fr m Waterloo to ntwerp, and what says the local chro i cler the re ?
“ a Na o eo ca se mi o s of men to e is i n h i s ca se a h e Th t p l n u d lli n p r h u , th t was am o s and an e o i s w a oes ma e to us wh o owe to h i m biti u g t t , h t d it tt r , R SSELS AND I TS B ATTLE - FI ELD 1 1 5 B U .
n ew e s e ce ? Our i s to eme m e n ot th e man n or th e des our xi t n duty r b r,
o n f ur ea c ” ot th e seco d e o o . p , but n f u d r gr t ity It is so everywhere—the monuments of the genius of Napo leon are i neflaceab le ; but what monuments remain to the miser
F e S N o h able r nch, panish and eap litan Bourbons, for w ose sake
- the young, the brave, the true hearted agonized and died at
' Had b een a P E Waterloo ? I russian or an nglishman , I suppose my feelings at Waterloo would have been diffe rent ; as an Ameri
a c o can, an imp rtial judge, I ame away from Waterl o with, it is
s true, a great admiration of the fighting quality of the Briti h sol
o e soldi e rlv e A dier ; with m re resp ct for the tal nt of rthur, Duke
n o c of Wellingto , but, withal , infinitely m re ontempt for the
British statesman whose stupid and se rvile attachment to a despicable herd of petty tyrants kept the world at war for years, F only at last, that, as a rench picture of the time depicted it, a fl troop of pigs should enter the Tuile ries while an eagle ew away . ANTWER AND I TS ATHE P C DRAL .
ARTL Y from choice, partly through accident, I tarried
or o a e of A three f ur d ys in the venerabl city ntwerp . In that time I saw this quaint old place to its oldest and queerest
c nooks and orners ; I almost lived in its cathedral, and I wi t n essed the pageants in honor of the th ree ~hundredth anniversary
th e Pe e of birth of the famous painter, t r Paul Rubens .
“ A n ntwerp is a brave old tow , one of the ancient free cities, or communes ; where were invented and practice d arts of all
a c kinds ; where, in their inf n y in this world, flourished two famous things , to wit, printing and liberty ; where the merchants were princes ; Wh e re every man labored faithfully in the calling
God e s wherein had plac d him ; where, when the toc in sounded, th e mrstered c his burghers , ea h man under the banner of trade
h i s th e e e the draper under , and full r und r his, and did battle for
th e e c e i n freedom ; for, in thirt enth ntury, when the world was “ a ce A bondage, it was written in the city ordin n s of ntwerp, In the town and libe rty of Antwerp all men are free ; there are no
” And e e s o slaves . besid s, to mak all thi m re interesting to an
th e A e e American , brave story of ntwerp has b n told last and
o e e . best by our own c untryman , the lat lam nted Motley A A F When you go to ntwerp, it seems as if lva and arnese were men of yesterday ; as if the Emperor C harles had re cently abdicated ; as if the town had be en just rebuilt after the destruo ( 1 16 )
1 1 A KANSAN A R AD 8 B O .
t rdam c A s e . You see names yet ommon in our greatest merican
Ho A city, and boken is a suburb of ntwerp . A F In ntwerp most of the educated people speak rench, but all, ” a F c a ff high and low, spe k lamaud Dut h, in f ct, di ering little from that spoken in Holland ; a language that looks like English E in print, and sounds like a mixture of German and nglish .
T th e F th e Antwer ers hough not as vivacious as rench , p are a
c a talkative people, and heerful with l , and eat as if the safety of “ ” A e e the town and liberty of ntwerp dep nd d upon it.
“ T e o her is a m dern park in the town , but the ancient plats are th e principal resorts ; th ese are paved with stone and sur
o s H th e e A rounded by high h use . ere men and wom n of ntwerp
T e e e - a es have gathered always . h r are two gr at rallying pl c , the
a ace th e a Gr nd Pl in front of town h ll, surrounded by the houses
s and the a e — e of the trade , there is Pl ce V rte though th re is — nothin g green there e xcept some rows of young trees and tower
P e th e ing above the lace Verte, and above the tr es and all houses,
o e and looking d wn on all the green and flat kingdom of B lgium,
a No is the glory of the town , the c thedral of tre Dame .
h Ant e r e rs sa e T e e so w . tow r, the p y, is the high st in the world
I do not know ; I only know that it seemed to grow highe r every
e e e s . wan tim I look d at it, and was highest wh n I saw it la t I
e o th e S — e e der d d wn by teen the old prison , wh r they show you terrible dungeons whe re the Spaniards tortured prisoners and — I far out th e doclm an d but killed them and went among ships,
e I was re ev ry time turned about there the g at, gray, gothic spire,
o e e c all c ver d with carv d and urious things in stone, rising story
and on story, up up like a flame of fire, till, when the day was
o to dull and the cl uds hung low, the gray tower seemed mingle E P A D I T ATHED 1 1 AN TW R N S C RAL. 9
t with the gray sky . Of en and often I found myself standing i n front of the great portal, leaning over back to look up at that old ’ m I builder s iracle, and looked until my head swam and it seemed
m o as if the spire might all at once co e d wn with a crash .
h e h as c o T spire a great l ck, and it has, moreover, a chime cf “ ” e C Em bells, and there is the great b ll arolus, named for the
’ eror C who e e was p harles V, was the b ll s godfath r when it bap “ ” ti z ed c ; and there is the great bell Maria, whi h rang first over “ ” . C o s four hundred years ago ar lus weigh pounds, and “ ” and h th ll Maria pounds ; he w o hears ose , be s roaring — - not i t and clanging in the dim night time will forget no, not till
e e o he di s, for th ir voice is like the v ice of doom, and makes one think of the Judgment Day .
When you look from the en trance of this church to the high
oo for altar, it is like l king down a road in the woods, it is more than three hundred feet, and the six rows of pillars make one k thi nk of a beech or oa forest .
e Th re are in this cathedral countless pictures, some of them
e t . T worth their w igh in gold here are many altars, and so vast i s the edifice that several masses may be said at once before con
siderab le e o . On S congr gations with ut confusion unday, it seemed
c was o e i n that a servi e held s mewher the church at every hour .
You can walk around these congregations in the great space without disturbing any one ; but coming in just as the church was
d on I lighte , a dim, rainy evening, sat down and looked at the
e wh o e c pri st, spok from the pulpit of arved wood , representing
and o human figures and birds, peacocks d ves and eagles, all
out f and n I r o as . ca ved of the heart oak , as atural life looked
s I at the prie t, though understood not a word he said, for he spoke 1 2 A KAN A A D 0 S N BROA .
i n Low C t the tongue of the oun ries, and as I looked I thought, good Protestant as I am, that they have dim eyes to see and dull e r C — a s to hear, who think that the atholic church the Roman
C c ou — n atholic hurch, if y please has fallen upo evil days, or
a t otters to its f ll . T “ ” hat revolutions never go backward, is a comfortable doc t wh o i n n rine for those believe revolutio , but it is not always true .
T A was h his cathedral of ntwerp ravaged by the iconoclasts, w o, “ ” 1566 a in , broke down the alt rs and the images ; then, two h un F dred years later, came the rench infidel, and did the same thing ; yet to - day the two great bells call the people to the worship of
a h Th e s R the old f it . wave of the eformation swept over the
- e Low C ountries, but to day scarc a trace of that great movement
r . u not a emains in Belgium If that revol tion did go b ckward, it T ceased to go forward . wice, as I have said, has this great C atho lic church of Antwerp passed into the hands of aliens ; more than
" n this, it has been three times ravaged by fire yet the devotio to
n f and m the old church has bee su ficient to rebuild it, the sa e
i t n i n spirit would , I believe, rear agai strength and beauty,
i n a - though it were laid shes to morrow . It is idle to say that E f the religion which reared , all over urope, these wonder ul buildings ; which has cared for them during the vicissitudes of stormy centuries ; which guards and adorns them to- day as holy C “ ” and precious, is a fading and dying thing . all it mummery, “ ” r —i t this wo ship, and superstition, this faith is not my business
n to call ames, but to tell of things as I see them ; and I say, that, however much consolation doctors skilled i n prophecy may de rive from ingenious combinations of the horns and beasts of
R n n n n evelatio , what I have see with my merely u assisted huma
A A A 122 A KANS N BRO D .
good - sized volume might be written descriptive of this church
e a s alone . Its chapels are d corated with the most precious m rble .
are In many instances the chapels the gift of single families .
Among the saints whose n ames are most frequent in Antwerp
B m n are St . arbara, whose assistance is invoked to save fro sudde St R and unexpected death, and . och, who aids in time of pesti
One n was A n lence . of the latest saints cano ized an ntwerp maso , A ’ A . F . St . lores djoining St ndrew s church is one of the most “ ” . C curious sights in the world It is called the alvary . It is a
r o n g otto or labyrinth , comp sed of coal cinders, gravel and broke
Th e a c bottles . pl ce is full of caves and re esses, and crowded
i n with statues of prophets, saints, angels and devils . It is
Th e e c describable . most wond rful thing in all these hurches is
- e the wood carving, of which there is an incr dible amount . I
e I could never have beli ved, had not seen it, the grace, beauty
’ and majesty that the artist s genius can bring out of blocks of “ ” T s wood . here are angel bright and fair, rank on rank, with
n s their folded hands and wi g , so beautiful that they seem to have just alighted on this poor world, and all made of oak wood nothing more .
“ But the event of the season was the fetes in honor of the
- R Th e exer three hundredth anniversary of the birth of ubens .
e o a a cises had be n g ing on for sever l d ys when I arrived , though R greatly interfere d with by rain during my stay . ubens is the
Hi s b e i n th e e god of Antwerp . ronz statue stands Place V rte,
R His and ate . , during my stay, I , drank and slept ubens hand
T a some features were displayed eve rywhere . riumph l arches
— fa were thrown across the principal streets enormous af irs,
T s wonderfully constructed of p ainted canvas . here were flag AN T ERP AND I TS ATHEDRAL 1 2 W C . 3
enough to have furnishe d forth a thousand Fourth - of- July cele
r ti n he - o a and e b a o s. T Belgian tri col r (bl ck, red y llow) covered
w R e o a R - e . R the ntire to n ub ns phot gr phs, ubens cigar cases, ubens All e th e o . everything, fill d shop wind ws the churches and the
’ museum were thrown Open that the peo ple might see Rubens
e c pictures . I had seen several of his gorg ous court pi tures in the
e s I n and e . Louvre, gr atly admir d their richne s and brilliancy
e I e e Antwerp , his pictures are r ligious, and fail d to appr ciate
e e c them . I got v ry tired of his Virgin, r produced a s ore of
- fat F e s o times a young l mi h woman, with a low, oval f rehead,
s e very large black eye , an normous bust, and a great, round,
e e a e . whit , fat n ck, which domin ted ov r everything else In every picture the p osé was such as to give this neck the best possi “ ” — o Th e ble showing i t was neck or n thing . sameness of the pictures is accounte d for by the fact that Rubens took as a model
e first —I e e at his second wife , or, p rhaps, his do not rem mb r ; but
e ou oo are o at any rate, wh n y l k at the Virgin Mary you lo king
R e R . on e t St Mrs . ubens In pic ure ub ns himself appears as .
me e George . I suppose it is very presumptuous in to say th se
I e e Th e c e D e th e things, but b liev them . pi tur s by Van yk , pupil
R e . I t e s of ubens, appear to me infinit ly finer se m to me that he
as es wh o e e w the great t portrait painter has ev r liv d .
Th e o s a fete, h wever, went on just the ame, notwithst nding my
O ne we a to a o c r pinion . O night had a gre t his ric l t r hlight p oces
o All th e s e c e a si n . co tum s in the old pi tur s were f ithfully repro duce d rank on rank marched past in the armor or the dresses of
a o s s o centuries g ; burghers, soldiers, kings and bi hop all m ved by,
th e c e a o the light of flaring tor h s f lling on m ving masses of color,
T e scarlet, yellow and purple . here w re great cars representing 1 24 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
n music, art, religion , printi g, and so on ; an enormous organ R formed one of these moving structures . ubens moved by on an immense chariot, while young girls with trumpets were supposed
e A to sound abroad his fam . great concourse of people witnessed
e the procession , and when the cortege turn d into one of the nar
c e it row, winding streets, ompl tely filling with the moving scene,
a the light of the torches flashing up gainst the high houses, the
“ and tossing of banners, the glitter of helmets and arms , the sil
e K a ver trump ts snarling, as e ts has it, made a combination of
n o e sights and sounds that at least one spectator will ever f rg t .
Th e e was next night th re a concert in the Place Verte, by
e At h twelve hundred sing rs . the our set all the streets around
was were filled with people, although the air filled with a misty
Th e rain . singers and orchestra occupied a platform built for the A purpose . line of soldiers was drawn around this space, though
s e n c a - it e med hardly e ess ry , so polite and good humored was
e T ne o ev rybody . hat night will ver be f rgotten by me . I had
an d ffe c lived long su red mu h, but I had reached at last more than
e h O e for —I was I had dar d to p allowed, after so many years , to hear - of- some music out doors, a privilege I think no one ever
n c Th e as n . w t e joyed in my own dear ountry _ audience atten io
e Th e e a its lf. l st disturbance in the rear of the crowd was met by
a E low hisses of dis pprobation . very note fell on every listening
And — at ear . what music it was l times a band of trumpets hid
e den in the tre s in a distant part of the park, answered the voices, “ ” “ ” - — and at last the bells not C arolus and Maria but a silvery
’ chime, answered the trumpe ts as they sang with all the children s
c — At voi es for boys and girls sang, too . the close, voices, orches m tra, trumpets and bells repeated over after each other, a si ple
N ON RE TE LO D VISI D .
T F s t lu hing I embarked on a steamer bearing a Du ch name,
c - a- e al of whi h I have forgotten half doz n syll b es, and so
e e h e will not undertak to giv the balance . T destination of the
uee nb oro of e e boat was Q , a run twelv hours , more or l ss, accord
e e ing to wind , w ath r and other circumstances .
Some n aval office r being ask e d what was th e most awful thing
- fi h t e e c about a sea g , said it was seeing th m sprinkl the de k with
c et . sawdust to cat h the blood , as y unshed I was reminded of this on ente ring the cabin of the on seeing ce rtain om
n as o as i ous tin b ins hanging opp site each berth . It w plain that
as e o the tinware w not int nded for rnament, but use .
Th e o o company was not large, the m st conspicu us being a
r young Japanese coming f om school on the continent, and a
n m a oc wh o you g wo an of remarkably s iable temperament, and , “ ” a a e was e e to use a se f ring xpression , thre she ts in the wind .
h e o e and e o o T boat s on l ft the pier, considerabl m ti n was per
e ti ble I t h ow o e e on c p . was surprising so n conv rsation turn d the
th e a b ut was a a e s state of w ter, nobody fraid of se sickn s ; none of th e n h ad e e e e a e b e passe gers v r b n se sick or ever xpected to , and there was a dispositio n to conv erse in a lively mann e r on th e sub
of th e e a e a Th e o a o e a a j ce t dr d d mal dy . y ung wom n af r s id p pe ared at frequent intervals at h e r state - room d oor an d laughed
th e e e e I t was o s ed o violently at gentl men pass ng rs . b erv , h wever, ( 1 26 ) D E I T 1 27 LON ON R VI S ED. that all this hilarity did not mate rially check the rolling of the
o steamer, and soon an old woman b wed her head on the table,
e Th e and wept and moaned and bewailed hers lf. e gentl man from
He a n ff . a the Orient w s ext a ected stopped t lking, and turned
n a first a dark brow , then a deep yellow, then light straw color,
e o c e and fled to his b rth , fr m when e his slanting yes glistened in the midst of a countenance the color of a dirty white pocket
Th e - o o e handkerchief. state ro m d or opened once mor , a hys teri cal laugh was heard , and after that the young woman was
ne a heard but not seen . O by one the passengers bout the table
nd thought it was abo ut time to turn in, a said they always went
He ne was . e to bed early . O of the last this writer r members
t and e no that he lost his interes in everything earthly, f lt hopes,
or s e aux desires, emotions, ambitions want , save an overwh lming
e Th e e n i ety to lie down somewh re . sensation was like b i g low ered by the heels and head first into a barrel of m oderately warm
T a and very dirty water . here was no local p in , no settled agony
n e i n - a a ywh re particular, only just a spreading, all perv ding, over
sick Th e wh o a e s whelming . man says th t when you are s a ick you
- should keep on deck and walk about, is a liar and a horse thief.
T o o o a his dep nent did n thing of the sort, nor w uld he to h ve
e c . So saved the boat from instant d stru tion still did he lie, that he could have been carrie d around with a show and exhibited as
Th e e ffe e c a - a mummy. ct was ben fi i l . In an hour the se a sick
s a a was ness grew a h med of ttacking a man who down, and made n o e e and e r sistanc , so left ; and aft r that the motion of the ship was not disagree able . But all night the re we re moanings and
“ e — groanings all around the cabin, and cri s of Stew (whoop,
— " s whoop, whoop) ard So pa sed the solemn hours away till 1 28 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
d c n aylight ame, and stricke , haggard wretches began to crawl on
“ wan deck, and remark with smiles, that it was pretty rough last ” n ight .
The run from Que enb oro to London was made in the dirtiest
saw E as railway car I ever in ngland, but the day w so fair that a
as Our little discomfort w forgotten . way lay through the fair K county of ent, in some respects one of the most beautiful of
E u e i ts a f nglish co nties, and we saw acr s of f mous hop fields . O
n wa I R c the towns alo g the y, remember only o hester, and that not i t because of anything connected with its history, save that
as w the first stopping place of Mr. Pickwick and his friends when they started out on their tour of observation . L ondon looked natural enough , though perhaps a trifle uglier
h difli cult after Paris ; but for all t at it is a town to get away from, and I believe I could live there for six months, and take each day a new and interesting tour of observation .
A as C a day w devoted to Windsor stle, easily and quickly
L i n reached by rail from London . ike most historic places
E e ngland, it is mor interesting from past than present associa tions . In the absence of the Queen (who is generally absent ) ,
“ ’ admission is obtained without difficulty, and by the Queen s ” e l A fe command no f es or gratuities are al owed . w of the state T apartments are shown . hey are handsome, of course, but with T m the furniture covered with linen, look dreary . hese royal roo s
’ th e L did not seem to me as fine as the halls of ouvre, the people s
th e F r . T palace, open to humblest rench workman eve y day here
e is a fine collection of portraits by Van Dyke, and a misc llaneous assortment of royal portraits, one of the best, I think, being of
L . George IV, painted by awrence Poor old George III was of
130 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
c . H men have been edu ated In the far distance is arrow, where
Byron was a scholar ; the green spot by the gliding Thames is
R e e C e K unnymede , wh r Magna harta was wrest d from ing John , whereby ( I belie ve ) we obtained the privileg e of being tried by
wh o n e twelve men ever read the newspap rs, and so have n ever “ formed or expresse d an opinion ; a clump of house s is the vil
e e th e of lage of Datch t, wher Merry Wives Windsor se rved Fal staff a bad trick ; and the spire above the trees marks the site of
h e w th e Stoke churc , wh re the curfe tolled knell of parting day ;
e a was to and, conc rning this, the serge nt kind enough tell me that ne arly every American wh o came to Windsor was able to ’ T repeat Gray s Elegy . hese are the real attractions of Windsor
C . e astle We may forg t what king built this tower or that, but no one forgets th e moment when he looked across the green coun
“ ” o e try to where the rude f r fathers of the hamlet sleep .
L was ffo d Back in ondon by night, an opportunity a r ed to hear
S wh o a - da the celebrated purgeon , was to deliver week y evening
hi s th e . address at tabernacle, on Surrey side It seems a little odd L a e , but a ondoner directing a str ng r to this place of worship
a a will tell him that it is near f mous inn in old times, bearing “ ” i ts th e E still ancient name of lephant and C astle . Going first “ ” E a C a h ad f to the leph nt and stle, we no di ficulty in finding the
n e ff e immense taber acle . It is an excessiv ly ugly a air outsid , and inside the effort appears to b e to make it look as unlike a church
th e as possible . In shape , interior ( to use a familiar, though possibly an irreverent illustration) is like the race track at the m T . T are i opeka fair grounds here several galleries, and an
of A e - n mense amount room . lthough it was a we k day meeti g, a
as n large audience w present, and I oticed the red uniforms of L ND ON RE I SI TED 1 1 O V . 3
e - c ss h two soldiers lightin g up the sob r olored ma . T e pulpit i s a
S e o o e m o l e . . s rt of smal gall ry Mr purg n is a s lid, h avy, uscular
e - a E o e man , with a thoroughly middl cl ss nglish lo k . W re he a
i i i I for o a e ad pol t c an, should take him a p pul r speak r of the
Hi s c e an d a a . v ce r dical p rty dis ours , I am bound to say, seemed
o t n as add s to me far fr m s riki g ; and I may well , that my ob erva tion leads me to believe that in th e matte r of pulpit eloquence
of th e t e A l i America is far in advance o her sid of the t ant c . Mr .
’ u o a - of- c s o Sp rge n s sermon was a pl in , matter fa t talk, ri ing n where
i or e e the e ca c i s o into the subl me, v n po ti l ; but his voi e a w nder ful on e He l e o th e . fi l d the great building with ut slightest appar
an d h i s e e c ent exertion, lower not s w re singularly musi al and
n o e pleasi g . I could, from hearing his v ice, w ll believe all that is said of h is powe rs as a speaker whe n circumstance s call for their
Aft a e s z . o exertion er the sermon number of p rs n were bapti ed,
ffi i a I was o o the o ciat ng clergym n being ( t ld ) a br ther of Mr .
’ ' r Th e i e Spu geon s . ord nance was conduct d after the manner of
a t r A e a d di a B ptis chu ches in m ric , save that all the la y can d tes
e e wor whit robes and caps .
Th e t da L i nex y, at the instance of a iverpool printer, I v sited
K o T the C axton exhibition at the South ensingt n Museum . here was here a wonderful co llection of everythin g relating to the past S or present of the art of printing in all its bran ches . ome speci
of A e ca e hi n r mens m ri n work wer on exhibition , though not g nea
fin e ow d th s as a sh as cOul have been made . In e midst of a gla s
“ a a s o H T o E l c se of c rd I n ticed one of aight ayl r, llenvi le,
N s to i t . and the name brought my m nd the recollec ion of
’ one wh ose death diminished the world s too slender stock of sin
R Ta . cere and honest men, the late . B . ylor, of Wyandotte 2 AD 1 3 A KANSAN ABRO .
o u o There was a w nderf l array of old b oks, particularly those l printed by C axton himself. I ooked even at the pages of the
E o first book printed in ngland . I supp se I ought to have burst out in a torrent of eloquent and grateful eulogy on the “ art pre ” i a t e etc . s erva v . . of arts, the pall dium of liberty, , etc , etc , and C have blessed the memory of William axton, but I did not . See
n r me H i . e g his work, b ought him very near to looked at me, in f act, from the open pages of his book , with the same provokingly
’ Macli se s bland , innocent, benevolent expression he wears in pic
t e ture . It irri ated me, and I f lt as if, provided he could really “ ” e materializ , I would have addressed him thus “ C o Mr . William axton , you were originally a mercer, and y u t were also an embassador, and one with jus the statutory amount o f common sense would suppose that that was a sufli ci ently fat take for you ; but you must needs go into the printing business .
o ? N w then, what for You say that the Duchess of Burgundy ‘R H T ’ wanted you to print the ecueil of the istory of roye, and
and Eve A you did it ; yes, wanted dam to eat the apple, and he did it ; and Herodi us had an anxiety for the h e ad of John the
L e Baptist, and she got it ; and ady Macb th wanted Mac . to give
ld He o man Duncan a fatal prod , and he did it. never even gave
‘ ’ ’ t n s the old man a chance . You didn foresee the co sequence , you s a y, when you set up your book , newspaper and plain and fancy
’ e t A e job printing establishm n in Westminster bb y . You didn t
’ k ? You now, now honest didn t think there would ever be such a
’ t . ? n hing as a tramping jour , did you You did t see the head of the blooming old procession that has been about three hundred
’ years passing a given point ? You wasn t prepared for that gay
’ o ld ? n t cortege, that innumerable caravan , were you It did
A A A 1 34 A KANS N BRO D .
i n n . Oh We are the everlasti g and are stuck for all night , William "William "”
S n C Queen Victoria, purgeo and William axton formed the bill of fare at this last visit to London ; from thence my way led “ into the country, and away from the cities , into the heart of that rural England referred to by an English poet as having been
“ ” made by God, while man made the town . R RA EN AN U L GL D .
EFORE E taking leave of ngland, I traversed the counties
L C o i O s of ancaster, hester, Sal p, Warw ck, xford, Middle ex,
C H n K c L o ambridge, unti gton, ent, Bu ks, inc ln , York, Westmore
C o o r land and umberland, and traveling leisurely, had a g od ppo
ni t E t tu y of seeing the nglish country , east , west, nor h and south .
I E s If did not see the best, which most nglishmen insi t is in Dev
nshir I r o e, think I saw the worst, in the moo s of Yorkshire, and “ ” plen ty that was fair to middling.
Of C e r n the beauty of heshir , where I first saw sunshine and g ee
as E n e Shro gr s in ngla d, and of the comparative exc llence of p
i I alreadv I sh re, have spoken , and have alluded to the poverty of
and L o Had Warwick the country between Stratford and ond n . I I seen only that region , should have come away with a poor E E F O . pinion of nglish ground and nglish farming ortunately, I
f r went a ther and fared better .
Th e Ke n famous county of nt I saw on a sunshiny mor ing, as
nb or L i s uee o . I have before stated, in coming from Q to ondon It
o s nor a c unty of hill and dales, never monotonous on one hand,
t n I e s riki g on the other . ts hop fi lds are its most remarkable
r tur ag icultural fea e .
was S I L It eptember when left ondon going north, and there was e a k en reminder of autumn in the air, and the trees had already begun to dull and fade ; the summer had been an uncom ( 1 35 ) 13 6 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
u on e E mo ly wet , even for ngland, and one was constantly reminded b t A e Oc r y the emperature of an m rican tober, although the ha vest
o R was in pr gress . eapers of a peculiarly lumbering pattern were
n goi g in some fields, and in others I saw, for the first time in my
’ - wh o Eu life, gleaners ; ragged, red faced women, , like gene Ware s “ ” n th e n geese and cranes, were picki g up golde grains. To one wh o had seen ears of corn enough wasted along the muddy roads
l o E of I lin is to feed ngland a week or so, this gleaning business “ . To s looked like the depth of poverty make the seeming wor e,
as I w told that gleaning was not as profitable as formerly . I sup
i n old - e pose the times a kind heart d husbandman , with a sickle
’ e le t n or cradl , fall a few stalks occasio ally for pity s sake ; but a
- c of reaping ma hine has no bowels compassion .
e i It happened that this very S ptember, when th s poverty
’ was stricken spectacle so impressed me, the rich man s holiday, for it was the opening of the shooting season , which the imposi
n tion of a new gun tax had made more genteel tha ever. Bushes were stuck up in some pastures to indicate that the ground was
L Someb od oroth er n reserved by ord y , and that no other man, eve
- e . sa with a stamp d shot gun, might blaze away therein I w some
F men of this hunting . our or five moved in skirmishing order
- across a turnip field, with a boy carrying a game bag, and popped
as t away at birds which were tame as ca s . It was not nearly as
’ - i t exciting as the boy s pursuit of the ground hog, and lacked his
s excuse of dire nece sity .
mi The To get back to what I know about far ng . turnip fields are a great English institution ; they se em to occupy the place
Th e e filled by corn in America . undemonstrativ , cold, hard,
i s i n E n . i n s solid, practical turnip at home ngla d I th k it mu t
A AN A 138 A K NS BROAD .
him and th e - an n n public a small door yard and iro fe ce, and A keeps his front door locked . higher grade and a longer purse are designated by a large yard so full of shrubbery that you cannot
o en see the house, and a l ck and bell to the front gate, which op s
n c through a very high iro fen e, suitable for a penitentiary .
Greater grandeur manifests itself i n the shape of a high stone
s wall around the premise , the top thereof bristling with broken
i n glass set mortar, to prevent any one from climbing up and
n looking over at the august owner ; fi ally, a landed gentleman or n obleman incloses all the ground he can get hold of with a prison
e e i n wall, devot s the ground to a wildern ss, and lives the middle
s s of his forest, as happy as a mo t imperial snail in his ance tral
To e r shell . get at him in this magnific nt retreat, it is necessa y to apply at the lodge gate , and to go through as many formalities
E e h as are requisite in order to see the mp ror of C hina, w o is brother to the sun , uncle to the moon, and attorney for the planets generally .
Am a c id the expanse of p sture, field and park are s attered the
a e re little vill g s, which are numberless, and which bear a family
' h e ntr a t cou . r semblance all over y You see the gr y, square towe
e c a o th e e e i n e ou of the villag chur h b ve tr s, whatev r direction y
e A th e the a turn your ey s . long line of railw ys are dull old places,
a e n e n midw y betwe a village and a town . Th y lack the life see
A c a not about meri an r ilway stations, for the arrival of a train is
e e e R s much of an ev nt wh r , as at ugby Junction, for in tance, four
- d e e . an hundred trains pass v ry twenty four hours But of these,
e of a a e I . more specially rur l vill g s, shall speak further on
e to C It was a bright morning wh n I came ambridge, and
‘ ofl stopped to look at the university . It is hard to tell which is E LA 139 R URAL N G ND .
C ambridge and which is the university . Instead of the rows of
we educati onal barracks situated in a public square, with which
A s are familiar in merica, the college are scattered all over town,
i . S and jammed n among the houses ome are very old, and
- lighted with latticed windows, the little three cornered panes set
n n i n leade sashes ; others are more moder in appearance, and — — some are eve n now building or being built for I forget which
c h d R . T e ua r n Mr. ichard Grant White has de ided upon old q a
i n gles, the inclosures of brightest turf shining contrast with time
a o . C bl ckened old walls are lovely sp ts ambridge, too is full of — , — , grand old trees nobody knows how old under which succes
e C sive generations of stud nts have strayed . ambridge is a sweet,
i n quiet old town , and doubtless is fondly remembered by men ,
and blooming youth and wintry age, in every clime by the shores of every sea . O C nce in ambridgeshire, the country changes and spreads out
- in great plains toward the sea . I looked over the low lying coun
n try in the shimmeri g light of the afternoon , and it looked like
' “ ” one e that land of which says that it s emed always afternoon .
and - Wide fields stretched away, the sky line was broken by white
- l for And wind mil s, like lighthouses the land . through this
n St. smi ling regio I came to Ives .
I had been followed all over England by scraps of nursery
“ e n me rhymes, and St . Ives had long before b e introduced to by a “ I As was St. certain verse which records that, I going to ves, I met seven wives " eve ry wife had seven sacks ; every sack had ” n seve cats every cat had se ven kits . In respectful remem
s brance of the kits, cats, sacks and wive , and also to deliver a
n u I letter i tr sted to me, I too went to St. ves . 14 A KANSAN A R AD 0 B O .
Hunti ngtonsh i re was one of those Puritan counties which se nt out so many emigrants in the days wh e n men departed from the E A wrath present and wrath to come, from ngland to merica . It
’ C e was romwell s county, his birthplace, and until he b came a
e . prominent soldier, his r sidence I thought I detected in the ao “ ” cent of the people some traces of that Yankee twang so much
E - a- laughed at by the nglish now days, but which is said to have E e . St I s been originally import d from ngland . ve consists princi
of a for pally one gre t, wide, stony street, which is used a cattle
A - s m . arket long this are hitching rack , mouldering with age, to h which the bullocks are tied . T e street slopes to a still stre am
- bordered with great bulrushes . It is a soft gliding, stealthy sort
O . of river, and called, I think, the use By the banks of the “ ” e c St. stream, wher grow the rushes, oh , is the chur h of Ives, very, very old . I found the owner of my letter after a while, an
He astonishingly vigorous man of about eighty years . skipped along so fast that I had trouble to keep up with him, and he told
He h ad me all about St . Ives . that quickness of movement that “ they call being spry in New England ; and the sharp glance of
e e a as - his y and his r pid speech , as well the general business like
a char cter and shrewdness of his remarks, made me think of the
I He smart old Vermonters I knew when was a boy . was born in Norfolk ; and away back in the early part Of the century his brothers had stepped out without telling him, and had gone to
A He t St I merica . had lived fif y years in . ves , and had done
a He well, reasonably well pretty f ir, at least . had bought the m C house which romwell once lived, and of which he showed me
th e a drawing, and had built on site of it his own house ; and he
all owned the houses on two sides of the little square, and he
1 42 A KANSAN A ROAD B . and T canals . It is the native county of ennyson , and if you would
o know how it looks thr ugh all the varying year, you should read
“ ’ ” a 0 Ma . n gain the Queen the y Here I saw, all alo g the way,
a w - stirred softly by the l ggard ind and the slow falling rain ,
“ ” Th e oat- ass and th e swo - ass and th e s i n th o gr rd gr , bulru h e p ol .
On T r stepping out of the little station at attershall, the fi st
c n obje t one sees is a great brick tower, a hundred feet high, sta d ing in the midst of the ruins of what must have been once a very
. Th e Ta C extensive building tower is a part of ttershall astle, and th e only ruin I ever saw in England where brick had been
c All the material used in the stru ture . the information that I “ ” n a could gai from the byst nders was, that it had been reduced
a C o A co to its present state by the c nnon of r mwell . c rding to
E th e common report, all the ruins in ngland are work of either
R a Henry VIII or C romwell . uined c stles and abbeys are a
E a . T e feature of rural ngl nd hese, esp cially the abbeys, are
c very numerous, and you ome upon them in the most unexpected
ne places . O naturally looks to find these crumbling walls in soli tary valleys, but often as you fly past in the train , you catch a
“ the e glimpse of broken , gray arches, adorn d with that rare old ” c o c plant, the ivy green , lose beside the railr ad tra k, while the thewi tel egraph wires hum all dav in nd where once rose matin,
e t c to T . Th e and even song . But to g ba k attershall village is a
f a w c oo i t i n mile away rom the r ilway, hi h , cr ked as generally is
E o all the a e th e ngland, cannot go ar und to vill g s ; and at village
ss a — Fo c A it was n ece ary to hire a tr p at the inn the rtes ue rms.
R e ou e s E a so o e ead r, if y ev r vi it ngl nd , stop, metime or s mewh re,
th e e A How s c a at a village inn like Fortescu rms . co y and le n it
h o looked on that rainy day ; w brilliant was the array of pewter, R URAL EN LAND 143 G . silver and earthen ware on the dresser ; how brightly shone the
’ fire i n the ope n grate ; how spotless as a lady s handkerchief was the red brick floor ; how capacious and comfortable was the arm “ ” r o e th e lo chai in the ingle no k ; how ch ery was land rd, with
' hi s e s s . e o red ch eks and his fro ty whi kers Yes, read r, if th u art
- s e a purse proud and mo t obdurate donk y, thou wilt stop at the
“ ” “ ” m e I perial, or the Victoria ; but if thou, being a s nsible man ,
th v wouldst take thine ease at thine inn, thou wilt bestow weary “ ” “ ” Pi e frame at the White Bear, or the g and Whistl , or the “ ” “ E s c C . Bull and Mouth, or, perchan e, at the lephant and a tle
Th e landlord of the Fortescue Arms soon had a two - whe eled “ ” e i n b o vehicl at the door charge of the y, a healthy kid of about
- we to a h - le - Fen Th e five . forty years, and so journeyed M re am “ ” k a o d n ot se ction line is un nown in Engl nd, and so the r a does
" run b ut or on it, zigzags , rather winds about after a fashion of its
E s c own . ach side of the way ri e high and thi k hedges, shutting in e are the view at times ; and along the h dges great trees, limes
s h a or elm , which lock t eir br nches over your head ; and you may
a i t d depend that as the ro d looks now, so has always looke , and “ ” Th e T and so it always will . boy was born in attershall , the road which he had known all his days had never been changed
hi s I e i n n in time . suppos all the crooks it were there whe
’ C romwell s hoarse guns echoed over the fens two hundred years ago .
Mareham - le - Fen is a type of an English village when undis — turb ed a o s one by the railway single, cro ked treet, lined with
- o low- o and two st ry houses, varying from the r ofed thatched cot
to n T e tage the more moder brick house . here w re the little
and shops, where everything is sold from sugar to stockings, the 144 A KANSAN A AD BRO .
” o c c E rest red parish hur h of the stablishment, originally built
S s n e w by the axons, and two Dissenting chapel , and smart, and frequente d by the bulk of the villagers ; and near by is the park “ ” — and residence of the gentleman of the n eighborhood i n the
a a - le - Fen of a S case of M reh m , a member the f mily of tanhope,
n wh o which o ce furnished a nobleman invented a printing press, L H h and also that very singular being, ady ester Stanhope, w o A turned rab .
A village on th e upper wate rs of the Solomon or Republican would not have conveyed to me anything like the sense of seclu
at e e L sion felt this villag on the bord r of the fens of incolnshire .
S reade a leville K a we In p g , ans s, expect to be incorporated by the next Legislature as a city of the second class ; and we can almost
- A . C see the track layers on the St ugustine, Mound ity Van
R " - le - Fen couver ailroad but, at Mareham , or other rural hamlet
E As in ngland, nothing is to be expected . things have been, so H now . they are and ever shall be uman hearts, however, are the
ki ndlv o - of- same everywhere, and I met a welc me at this out the way spo t i n a strange country . We sat by the fire and heard the
n a A e I was rain outside, and, in retur for t lk about m rica, told all about the fens . In the old time the ocean came in all along the
an d was a c e coast, there a v st ountry untill d by man ; squatters “ ” a c e F lived bout in the hammo ks, as th y say in lorida, and killed
- m o c . I n oor f wl and aught fish , and were half wild themselves
e e tim , as land becam worth more, embankments were constructed, and when the ocean withdrew it could not get back except through
d- And th e floo gates . so in course of years the dreary fen became
- fields c e e E . pasture and wheat , than whi h th re are no fin r in ngland
- le - Fen - of- - e was Mareham is, then , Mareham the f ns, or once, for
14 A KANSAN A ROAD 6 B . does not even mention that a ge neration of Americans learned
—a o grammar out of his little book generati n now gone, or going ;
of s wh o c for tho e in so many country s hool houses, on so many “ ” “ ” o a o drowsy afterno ns, s id ver and over, I love, and you love, “ ” we o e and love, most are g ne away to anoth r country, where
e Th e we would fain h Ope that H loves . decent body wh o showed me the place knew nothing about th e man of the old
a o e c time grammar, but perh ps Mr . P nt fra t, the grocer at the
c . . corner, ould tell me ; but Mr P knew very little about his co religionist wh o labored so zealously to convince men that the
” ' o n on l i n th e second pers nal pronou , you , should be used yc per A son plural . But he knew, he said, a young man from merica
Hoa . T is Lindley Murray g here no getting away, you see, from — K A or . merica from ansas, for that matter
o In Y rkshire, I lived several days with the Doctor, and jour ne ed y about, visiting, among other places, that most graceful of F A m n o . o astic ruins, untains bbey I passed near, but did not “ ” K s E A visit, nare borough , the scene of ugene ram . Yorkshire
a e is a very l rge county, and has a bolder and more impr ssive “ ” s L o land cape than inc lnshire . It has those voluptuous swells, once spoken of by a Kansas Senator in connection with the Osage
th e ua ceded lands, and horizon is us lly skirted by brown hills,
e where grows the h ather, which, near at hand, reveals a little
and a ce pink flower, in the dist n shows in color from purple to
T s e R black . hi appli s to the country about ipon ; but in going n S L e orth , to cotland from e ds, you cross Blea moor, which is the abomination of desolation ; and it was in the moors that I saw
E C s the last of rural ngland . I saw it first in sunshine in he hire —I left it in shadow in Yorkshire . LA D 147 R URAL EN G N .
Such are a few impressions of the English country ; and the
c i s A T idea that seems most vivid in losing , that in merica, ime is — i n E . a de stroying radical ngland, an easy conservative With us E few e , nothing will ever be old ; in ngland , things se m young
' h e c com lain so or new. T e p rpetual moisture of whi h travelers p m E — E — uch , keeps ngland country ngland cool and fresh and
o a gently fair . It r bs tower and w ll and bridge of the gloss of
- n . ewness, and gives, instead, the placid beauty of well kept age
I th e th e a Alien though am, born in land of pr irie and the sun ,
ff E can as di e rent a country from ngland as well be imagined, I can well unde rstand the sentiment which an Englishman feels for
Not h is h i s n . his own, ative land country in an abstract sense ;
not h er h er o a . laws, her institutions, hist ry, but her very e rth
N i s E n o turf brighter and greener than the nglish sod, unbroke
L e by the plow since history began . arg r streams there are, but none more beautiful than those which mirror the primroses and
E a L th e cowslips of ngl nd . ife runs with quicker flow in the
- towns of the new world, which spring up in the sun bright wilder n e ess in a day ; but I can w ll understand how amid such, the
’ Englishman s heart may pine for the single windi ng street of his n - e o a i n ative village , with its straw thatch d c tt ges ; the stone cross
- c - e the middle of the market pla e ; the square tow red church , with
e of ivy overgrown ; and the hon st face the village clock, which
off told the hours of his forefathers, and which he laid awake at
i s e u c n ghts and li tened to as it m as red his own . Su h are the scenes which have inspire d th e noblest descriptive poetry i n our
a c langu ge ; such are the scenes amid whi h have been nursed souls,
' e o ab ro ad i n to brave, t nder and true, which, g ing all the world , for
r this two hundred years or more, have led mankind to a highe
e and bright r destiny . R T HO R I N OT AN FI S U S SC L D .
T Leeds I made the acquaintance of the great Midland Rail
way, the most enterprising railroad corporation in Eng — to land the first to introduce Pullman cars, the first do away “ ” - s e with second class carriage , making verybody ride first or “ ” “ ” third, and at the same time improving the third so as to — make it good enough for anybody a ste p which has earn ed for “ th e Ra Midland the name of the dical C ompany .
’ we L s 3 It was raining heavily when left eed , at o clock in the afternoon, and the falling rain , mingling with the rising smoke
we ran u from the manufacturing towns through , bro ght on a dark At K ness that might be felt . eighley the hills just back of the
b e e e i n town could not s en , and at this I f lt sorry ; for high up H those hills is the dreary village of aworth , where that strange
ff a — m family, the Brontes, lived, su ered , chieved fame one of the “ ” — so E and died . It was not much on account of Jane yre that
a off at th e e s I wished to look, even af r , scen amid which it was “ ” e H written , but to find som explanation for Wuthering eights, as written by another sister, and which I firmly believe to be the
- i n most blood chilling book in existence . I wished to know if “ ” Merrie England there existe d a regio n as desolate as that de n K o . I on pi ted in that book saw othing at eighley, but farther “ ” “ ” we came upon a lone land , the Yorkshire wolds , where a Hi s n . olitary, sensitive woman might easily imagi e anything gh, ( 148 )
1 50 A KAN A A AD S N BRO .
h ow u i i ruin, wonderf l is the spell of poetry when the mag c an 1s
c Walter S ott . Melrose is a beautiful ruin, but neither in itself nor F A in its situation does it possess the charm of ountains bbey, n R — Sc k ear ipon but Walter ott did not live in Yor shire . Mel
n o rose bei g in the midst of human habitati ns, seems a living
" ac u thing it has, in f t, been sed in part as a comparatively modern
F Ab n parish church ; while ountains bey, standi g in its lonely, h — green valley, is in armony with our idea of an abbey a place
w si nn i n s to which men , earied with the strivings and g of this
o o m weary w rld, bet ok themselves away fro its turmoil and bustle,
s — and bu ied themselves exclusively with prayer perhaps .
Th e - A custodian , a very lady like person , said many mericans
t fe w . were visitors in July, but since hen very had been seen A mong the later visitors at Melrose, however, had been General
e We soon got through with M lrose, and prepared to visit h A s c t e T . bbot ford , whi h is situated on weed, three miles away
e It thr atened rain , and , as I proposed to walk, the question of ” e e c t e e wh r withal shall we be lo h d, was upp rmost . I bethought
n for c e me of a certain lo g shawl, whi h, in journ ying many hun
h ad n o dred miles, I ever f und any use . We were in a land of ” s — wh e plaid y not conv rt myself into a gentle shepherd, and make a plaid of this Yankee shawl ? In the Highlands this
e a L would hav been e sy enough, but none of the owlanders to whom I referred knew how the real plaid was folded and fastened .
h a e th e o ad T e l ndlady, the chamb rmaid, co k, and their male
’ i se rs a s v , aiders and bettor , insisted that a shepherd s plaid had a
“ ” e c - corn r, whi h my shawl had not ; the green grocer next door “ ” a e said it was no bl t , whatever that may mean ; and finally the T H I OTLA 1 1 FI RS OURS N S C ND. 5
on n shawl was put anyhow, and under a loweri g sky the march on Abbotsford commenced . — “ ’ Th e country along the Tweed which in Marmion is Tweed s ” e of fair river broad and de p, ( really about the size the Grass “ ” Fa — e T e hopper at Valley lls) may be d scribed as pretty . h re is a succession of high , grassy hills, covered at their bases with
e a h groves of firs and birch s, gener lly the result of planting . T e
A e e Si r fine woods at bbotsford wer all plant d by Walter himself.
Th e n e e - openi gs in th s woods display fine country houses, the
c e e residen es of gentlem n, many of the owners, I pr sume, being attracted hither by the charm which the genius of Scott h as
l o thrown over this who e regi n . — I passed through a village called Darnick I mean spelled
I e n n Darnick, for d spair of giving its pro u ciation . I took in my
’ a - was w y a stone cutter s yard, in which a plaster model which “ ” ld T men I recognized as O Mortality . wo were at work on a
n o th e colossal figure in stone, but they had nothi g to say, nly that statue was going to Thinking this a dull shop for i n f o - f ormation , I kept along the shady road and overto k a fresh aced
to con young Scotch woman , and an inquiry about the road led a
was versation which lasted for half a mile or so . She born, she
n n n said, in the eighborhood, and had ever bee out of it . She
- was a i nformed me that the stone cutter quite f mous, and had made
“ ” “ ’ ’ ‘ H 0 Et a statue of Mr . ogg, adding, Maybe you ve heard the “ ” trick I assured h e r that th e Shepherd and all T th e rest of the Scotch poets we re well known in Ame rica . his n he r A e 'wh o i terested , for she said she had a brother in m rica
- o was a master stone mason . It w uld be curious to know how many stone - masons Scotland has sent forth to all quarters of the 1 52 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
T i globe . hen the matter of the gnorance of the Melrose people on the subject of plaids came up, and she said that before h er road diverged from mine she would fix the shawl “ real Scotch ” And h e r . and I fashion she was as good as word, had the satis
n A faction, whe I reached bbotsford, of seeing that my plaid was arranged about the shoulders in the same fashion as Si r Walte r
’ ’ C h antre s . T ff Scott s, in y bust his a air of the plaid was an early illustration of the kind - heartedness of the countrywomen of
Burns .
c e I had the road to myself after I left my Scot h f male friend,
nd c A You a arrived unexpe tedly at the bbotsford gate . go through
c n passages lined with high brick walls, on whi h ivy has bee t rained , before you come into the formal old garden , and through
- T it to the ante room, where the guide waits . his room was hung
n e e around with old engravi gs, r pr senting the exploits of hussars, possibly a relic of the time when Scott took a great interest in
A — a cavalry matters . fter a few moments the guide n English — an t m , I think came in, and I made alone with him the circui of
. F a the apartments open to visitors ortunately for me, I read l st
’ spring Lockhart s Life of Scott ( I borrowed it of Ward Burlin
e r s Ah gam , but you can find it in the State libra y) , and thi gave T S ’ botsford a greater interest . his great house was cott s dream
da by y and night, and it everywhere shows the absorbing interest
a e n he took in it. Scotland appe rs to hav bee ransacked to furnish
’ To i n L it . me the family portraits (which are engraved ockhart s
Th e work ) were most interesting . marked likeness of Scott to
On his mother struck me more forcibly than ever before . the
’ their o was other hand, the likeness of Scott s children to m ther h n n . L t . T e quite as appare t, the o ly exception being Mrs ockhar
A A A A 154 A K NS N BRO D .
wh o was anything in the shape of a lord, grieved that he himself n t wh o was - and wh o was con o born a lord, full of self esteem, sumed with jealousy when he failed to receive applause from
e h r everybody . Such a man , he argu d, could never ave been ve y
n t and I happy . I did o indorse all this by any means, only
i n as an Di s ment on the conversatio illustration of the adage, ” w. as ce tance lends enchantment to the vie It w odd, rtainly, that this opinion should have been expressed almost on the threshold of Abbotsford .
' And " yet, how magnificent is the power of genius Scott has thrown a wondrous light on every hill and dale and stream of his native land . He has robed Scotland in such guise as we read of
He in fairy tales . has been in his grave for years, and yet the
was th e Spell is as powerful as when first it laid upon world .
a i to Thousands of men and women l en him in blood, in senti m as n ent, come, pilgrims to a holy shrine, to gaze reverently eve
n e . For s upo the cloth s he wore me, I have forgotten many thing , “ Old ” fi but the day I first opened the pages of Mortality, the rst
’ a of Scott s rom nces that fell into my childish hands, is as bright
d And an . fresh as yesterday as I read, so I expect my children
” “ ~ will read, and their children, and so on to the end of days .
Th e S t as e He n life of cot p sed within a limit d space . was bor i n E e a Dr b ur h A e dinburgh , n r by ; he is buried at y g bb y, some
n A And Dr b ur h seve miles from bbotsford . to y g I went, in the afternoon .
To Dr b ur h ou go to y g from Melrose, y take the railroad to the
’ n Ne St. o ext station, wton Boswell s, and then, if you f llow my ex
o u on e th e s ample, y walk mile and a quarter to abbey, cro sing
T Dr b ur h the weed on a light suspension bridge . y g , unlike Mel I N OTLAND 1 55 FI RS T HOURS S C .
n t rose, is a perfect ruin . Melrose seems like a rui arres ed in the
Dr b ur h di act of decay, but y g is old, very old , crumbling, fa ng .
h . T an t T e ivy is most beautiful here is old , pointed gable s and C r ing, of which the ivy hides everything except a atha ine win
f t s i s dow of elegant orm . No a tone in sight ; it is all one mass of living green, broken only by this round window, through which
on n the light, be it sunlight or moonlight, falls shattered colum and mossy stone and broken archway, and walls on which the
e busy fingers of relentless tim are working, working still . I do not wonder that unlearned me n are superstitious i n these old
I t a se lands . is easy to think that in night, d rkness and storm, the ruins are peopled with the pale ghosts of those whofor centuries
- h have found a resting place beneat .
r I entered the ruined abbey entirely alone, and a sudden showe
n n i n comi g o I took refuge a sort of arbor, and sat and looked “ ” h e e n through t e tangled sk ins of rain . B fore me rose a fragme t
n — of the a cient building some arches, and above, a wall with
’ T St. some windows . his is Mary s aisle, and beneath the arches lie the mortal remains of Walter Scott ; h i s wife ; and at the feet “ ” son - i h - n n of Scott, his law, biographer and friend, Joh Gibso
Lockhart .
S n Soon the rain ended, and a guide, a thorough cotchma , came
I t n with a party of visitors . will be remembered that Washingto
t - A s Irving, in his s ory of his long ago visit to bbot ford, mentioned “ ” — the ancient family of Haig of Bemerside kept in their ancient “ th e e H home by power of a prediction that whatev r betide, aig H ” shall be aig of Bemerside . Behind the tomb of Scott, a tablet i L in the wall bears an inscript on , in atin , stating that this is the “ ” - H e burial place of the most ancient family of aig of B merside , A KA A A R AD 1 56 NS N B O .
th e was He I asked the guide if prediction still being fulfilled .
B a e e told me that the last of the ig , of the male line, di d some
- o s twenty f ur year ago ; that he remembered the funeral , and that when the body was placed in the ancie nt sepulcher there came a
e c a a v ry loud l p of thunder, which m ny people believed to be an
He a th e omen . s id that name was now borne by a young man _
h o o e . The w had been ad pt d family were not rich , or, as he said,
“ ” e c th y didna gather mu kle gear .
S i nn ask unset found me back in the at Melrose, and, on my ing the lass wh o got my supper whe re were the cakes that had
“ ’ ” S 0 given cotland the name of the land cakes, she disappeared — and returned again with veritable cakes of oatmeal"the first I
c o ever saw, and whi h I f und answered the description the girl
“ ’ ’ ” Sco d e e And gave me of tlan , Sh s littl , but she s gude . so, with
o s c patri ti m and oatmeal , I lose these hurried impressions of first hours in Scotland .
1 58 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
a E But, on the other hand , go bout dinburgh go anywhere i n
— ou Scotland and y will hardly be reminded that ever a poor, w I n h miserable exciseman died at Dumfries . t e n ati onal art gal
’ ’ Flaxman s of m lery, is fine statue Burns ; on the wall is Nas yth s A portrait, the one with which mericans are most familiar ; and so
—i n a i it is everywhere cheap prints, on canv s, in almost breath ng marble, is preserved the manly face and form of Burns, now a n ational idol .
Of u A r as and co rse, I went to y , I suppose every traveler does ;
A r a n at y I entered th t little district which has come to be know , “ ” e Th e of the world over, as distinctiv ly land Burns . It is a
e as L small country . Burns was nev r far from home as ondon i n
and e snfiered e n his life, he was born, liv d , wrote, and di d, withi the space of one of our Western counties .
e A r i n e e n I r ached y the declin of a S ptember day, whe the sun shone, but with that solemn and subdued brightness which
a e al seems peculi r to Scotland . I stopped at a hot l near the W
” ’ — o Tam O s lace tower not the one menti ned in hanter, but a ne s lan w one which occupie the old site, and which displays a
- i e T - tern jawed statue of Sir W lliam Wallac , by hom, a self taught
am - to r sculptor, who afterwards, I glad say, wrought much bette things .
I t is a pl e asant walk of two or three miles to the birthplace
h i s i th e was c of Burns . In t me, way but a ountry road , but now
e of s a c o for the great r part the di t n e it is a s rt of street, lined by
s e e the little parks of re ident g ntlem n, shut out from the thorough fare by those high stone walls of which I have spoken in a pre vions letter as be ing necessary to the dignity and h appiness of H wealthy folks in this country . owever, trees are not aristocratic LA D F RN 1 THE N O B U S . 59
al n r or unsoci , eve when growing in parks, and all along the oad the huge beeches stretched their limbs over the walls and across “ o a the road, as if in protection to poor f lks, tinklers, tr mps and dogs wh o might be toiling along the way .
m e n n In time, you get fro b twee the walls and into a more ope
, “ ” s - country, where there are pasture and fields and out door woods . In passing, you catch a glimpse of the shining sea . I had forgotten that Ayr was a port . Burns was born in sight of
e was the sea, but he rarely mentions the waves in his po try ; he a thorough landsman, and his genius spoke of the sod, and not of the wandering and inconstant billows .
It has happened that I have seen many places of moment i n
Shaks eare the evening. I saw the grave of p in the twilight, and it was nearly sunset when I came to the birthplace of Robert
I t an b e Burns . saw, wha thous ds of my countrymen had seen
- o e co a . e s n fore me, a l ng, low wall d , thatched tt ge B ide the ope
on te door, one side, was a board, on which was sta d, with what
c R th seemed to me a stupid provin ial pride, that obert Burns, e
“ ” A was th e e yrshire poet, born in house, and on the oth r side “ was " . c e and this inscription J Boyd, li ensed to s ll spirits, wines ” The i s h as ales . birthplace of Burns , as it been for many years,
. s n C n a dramshop More than sixty year ago, Joh Philpot urra , t a man whose genius was akin to that of Burns , and whose grea f c a ailing was, alas, the same, visited the ott ge, and said this of it
“ Poor Burns "h i s cabin could n ot b e passed unvisited or unwept ; to i ts — — two littl e thatched rooms kitche n and sle e ping- pl ace a sl ated sort of
a o i s a e and i s n w an l - h o a e o se . We fo n t e ee e of i t p rl r dd d , it h u u d k p r
s h e o e to th e co e on on e s e of th e fi re and w a mos tip y ; p int d rn r, id , ith t ‘ "ml- a ro os a o se e e e i s th e s o w e e Ro e s was p p l ugh , b rv d , Th r p t h r b rt Burn o n ’ Th e en s nd th e m b r . g iu a fate of th e man were already heavy on y 1 60 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
ea th e e a of th e a o a e me s h h rt, but drunk n l ugh l ndl rd g v uch a view of t e ” rock on w c h e o e e I co n ot s an s a hi h f und r d , uld t d it, but bur t into te rs.
Matters were not in this miserable situation when I saw th e “ ” was and ac cottage . J. Boyd sober, the pl e was shown me by
- n I n on e a decent looking woma . room a young lady was selling
e e o little souv nirs, photographs and the lik ; in the ther room,
' r th e n where Burns fi st saw light, a bright fire was bur ing, and
o e s several bumpkins sat sm king long pip . They looked like
- o h o e stupid , well meaning young men fr m town , w wish d to go
“ ’ away and tell their friends that they had drank a glass 0
” “ bitter and smoked a pipe in the identical room where Bobby
was Burns born .
’ A K Tam O Sh ante r lloway irk , where saw the devil and all, is
o as Th e standing ro fless, it has for years . bell is still in position,
- ff as of yore, and all is venerable, but a very new looking, sti par
s ish church stands opposite, and near by I heard the noi e of a
a as steam threshing machine . Progress, re l and false, w there . “ ” a a Old A I could ppreciate the threshing m chine, but lloway,
Ne w A even in ruins, looked more like a church to me than llo
a th e - w y. In kirk yard of the old edifice is buried the father of
was alwa s s lle d o Burns, (whose name y pe Burness, ) and the t mb -
s m first stone is the econd one erected to his emory, the having
- been broke n to pieces and carried off by relic plunde ring louts.
One of the singular re sults of the fame of Burns has bee n to make I this churchyard a fashionable place of sepulture . believe it had
e e e s fallen into disus at one tim , but of lat r years many per ons of
e saw Mr. quality have be n buried there . I the monument of a
e wh o I not th e C wh o Brok , , if mistake , was son of aptain Broke
C s commanded the Shannon in her encounter with the he apeake,
1 62 A KANSAN A R OAD B .
“ ” o and after supper I went out and st od on the auld brig . It is
Th e a indeed very old . balustrade is worn aw y as if by the hands
e u so n i that hav rested on it d ring ma y centur es . It was a dim, m n i e o e oonlit ight ; the r v r sh n , but it was with a cold and sullen
A e a It as gleam . chill wind cr pt down tow rd the sea . w a ghostly
n a e of h place, and made one thi k of the f t the man w o had made
He o co it immortal . saved thers, himself he uld not save . But “ ” h e s e the words . made the auld brig p ak have turned out a
“ ’ ’ ” c prophe y . I ll be a brig when ye re a shapeless cairn, said the ” e " auld brig to the new one, and it is ven so the new bridge h as
“ ” a c parti lly fallen, and has been ondemned ; the auld brig, which
o Burns evidently loved the m st, still stands for the benefit of foot
e n passeng rs ; stands fast, not only in fair weather, but stands whe
“ ” i s s on e e e e m sea Auld Ayr j u t l ngth n d , tu bling .
' A r and n I saw y by day and night, it struck me u pleasantly .
m e e o Too any p opl of the p orer sort were drunk on the streets .
e e Possibly if they had be n hilariously in briated, I would have
“ ’ liked th e m bette r ; but these poor creatures were not o er all the ” u ills of life victorio s, but simply dirty, disheveled, maudlin, des
latel Th e - new o y drunk . old town looked poverty stricken ; the , — stiff; and I use the word because I can think of no other
l ‘
' A r a Ood hypocritical . I daresay y is g town enough ; Burns said “ ” it was famous for ho nest men and bonnie lasses ; but as to the fi rst, I had not time to make their acquaintance, and as to the
e e . last, th y certainly were not on the str ets at the time of my visit
c th e n It is but justi e to say, that the only citizen of tow I had any
n was a ci vi l- e considerable talk with ( the tow clerk ) , _ spok n and
He I intelligent gentleman . spoke of a fact that have often no
‘
i men wh o . ticed, that Burns is a favor te with know no other poet THE LAND OF B RN 1 U S . 63
a - He told me that James B ird, an immensely wealthy iron master
th e not c e —a of vicinity, long sin e dec ased man supposed to be
to — entirely devoted business, and to know nothing else once
’ astonishe d and el e ctrified a company by repeating Tam O Sh anter from beginning to end .
I n A r D ou going by rail from y to umfries, y pass through a
o o I ma sa o country c vered all ver, y y, by the p etry of Burns . “ ” These banks and braes and woods around all echo still his
L s c for h ad e e e verses . ittle stream whi h but him n v r b en heard
’ o o s of, are now in men s mouths as c mm nly as the Missi sippi or
h h s A a t e e . c a the m zon or Gang s S otland been happy in this, that her rockiest hillsides have bee n made famous by the pen of
Her s es o genius . humble t scen have been enn bled ; and what is
e s h er o e stranger and great r till , l wliest peopl have been made the
’ e o A o a obj cts of the w rld s sympathy . p or d irymaid will live for “ ” as H o ever ighland Mary, and the w rld will never forget the
“ ” ’ story of humble He len Walker, the Je anie Deans of Scott s
The e o e of e o most touching story . rout I have sp k n l ads thr ugh
c s a e e Mauchline, near whi h Burn lived sever l y ars, and pass s near
r You are Ta bolton . scarcely ever out of sight of the waters of th e N of ith, or some other the winding streams along which the
Drumlan ri C n poet wandered, and you pass in sight of g astle, o ce
o e of s e an the pr p rty of a Duke Queen b rry, for whom Burns had
c l s A s e n espe ia di like. visit to thi castle d layed me a day o my
a w y to Dumfries .
co n t n Sunshine does wonders in S tland, but it could o brighte
umf I ss T D ries, where pa ed an hour . here may be a clean street
s in Dumfries, but I did not see it ; and, on this occa ion , misery was n I t was da n a added to uncleanli ess . the y precedi g wh t is 1 4 A KANSAN A RO D 6 B A .
“ R F c alled the ood air, and all the wretchedness of the surround
h ad o c e All - ing country c lle t d at Dumfries . the ho arse voiced
- on e - e fiddlers ballad singers, the l gged pipers and blind in Scot
e land had apparently gath red in . I never saw together before
e o s uch a number of blind p ple . I hurried through this mass of m c e e endicant misery, to the hurchyard, wh r is located the monu
o ment of Burns . It is a d me, supported by pillars, and they have
e put i n glass till it looks like a gr at lantern . You can flatte n your n can e ose against the glass for nothing, or pay threep nce for going
' all th is in . How Burns would have despised , could he have foreseen it "
as I had intended to stay at Dumfries some hours . I w glad to I leave it by the first train, and did not feel relieved until got to
“ ” c for where I ould see myself that Maxwelton braes are bonnie .
e Scotland has chang d in many things since the days of Burns .
‘ The high farming of o ur day was something unknown when he
o as K A followed the pl w ; for, I noticed at irk lloway, the thresh “ ” fli n in tree ing machine has taken the place of the weary g , yet
’ f r B urns s b e o all that , a copy of poems may taken for a guide
" e e . One book of the r gion in which he liv d could , by taking
o isolated lines and putting them t gether, write a description of
’ A You s the a Burns s yrshire . meet a witnes to f ithfulness of descriptions very often in the country " I speak of the Scotch
o s do c ollie, or shepherd dog, the m st kindly and u eful g in the
’
a o a s. world, with an eye like w m n He it is that speaks for the “ ” Twa s. n p oor, in the dialogue of the Dog You recog ize him by
Hi s owz e ack t i b , ’ ’ We el clad wi coat 0 gl ossy black ’ Hi s sa c a wi war c u y t il , up d url , ’ ’ Hangs o er h i s hurdies wi a swirl .
166 A KA A A ROAD NS N B .
into the field of journalism, where he would have filled a place
e like that occupied so many years by George D . Pr ntice, and that
and he would have lived to be an old prosperous man . But had " n care e r h e o this bee his , w uld have been forgotten at his death ,
we . n ow for remember nobody But it is all done, and well done, .
The t o good he did lives af er him ; his err rs have been forgiven , and his songs remain to be “ the property and solace of man ” n ki d . T AN MEMORIES OF SC O L D .
S . L t T is in cotland, I think, that Mr emuel Gulliver migh
wh o n have found his patriot, , by causi g two spears of grass
one essenti al ser i ce to grow where did before, confers more z v on “ ” n n his country tha the whole race of politicia s put together .
t s s i n Scotch thrif , triumphant over all sort of obstacle all parts h of the world, has achieved its greatest triumph at home . T e
n N and Scotchma drives a great bargain with Dame ature herself, forces her to give auld Scotia many things not laid down i n h er
n Th e t n n origi al programme . larges grapes I ever saw were ot i
I'h'ance , the land of grapes, but in Scotland, the land of oats .
n c s s They were raised u der glass, of ourse, and it mu t be confes ed that grapes do not form the principal article of diet of poor peo
i n n ple Scotla d ; but the great thing is, that grapes should be
i n c n n made to grow S otland u der any circumsta ces .
F - n n n h as orest tree pla ti g, which, in the U ited States, scarcely — got beyond the point of oral and n ewspaper discussion what — ma t n - and- an c s f t y be ermed the wi d ink stage is a compli hed ac ,
e i n - H n an . achieved succ ss Scotland illsides, which at the begi ni ng of the present century were as bare as the back of your
“ are c l Th e i hand, now overed with beautiful be ts of timber . l ttle trees that Si r Walter Scott tended when he we nt to live at
A t are no and n bbo sford, w great trees, bright ever gree , like the
’ n n n h planter s fame . A certai Duke of Quee sberry cut dow t e ( 1 67 ) 1 68 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
Drumlanrl woods of his estate of g, and was poetically cursed
f now s of there or by Burns , yet no trace the ravaging ax can be
Th e and e seen . Duke Burns are gone ; but tre s care nothing for E us creatures of a day . ven the grass which we trample on
n we as creeps back whe are still, to give us kindly covering at l t .
There is no natural reason why anything but thistles should
t c grow in Sco land ; for not only is the sky old, and the soil as
’ sea n ot thin as a hypocrite s prayer, but the , which loves vege tati on so , comes in everywhere in bays and friths, that the salt wind blows where it lis ts ; and yet those are fine fields one sees in E dale I i n . Tevi ot . saw few better ngland
c n L Scot h scenery, however, has ever, even in the owlands, the
' i n En land happy look that one sees g . It seems as if there was a
- e ai r s h snow bank somewhere that chill d the betime . T e land scape is always framed with high hills, on the tops of which the
ad patches of heather lie like sh ows . I should think that in the
- r winter time the fierce, hungry wind, pu suing the snow over the
r s ba e slope , would make journeying over these hills a dreary, if
s Th e . s not a dangerous, busines shepherd, following his toil ome
t c r trade amid the drif ing snows, is a common figure in S otch poet y and story .
h e S ff r T streams of cotland are very di erent f om the placid,
- ed - E m The rush border , pond like nglish strea s . Scotch river is
r e s a free, brown stream, that roa s and rumbl s and ru hes along .
Such is the Doon ; such is the Tweed for many a mile ; such
F o is the Water of leet, the m st charming of the minor streams
I saw .
T and Scotch towns are far from pretty . hey are built of stone, l ff ma ifi ook sti and ugly and awkward, and the attempts at gn
A R A 1 70 A KANSAN B O D .
“ M C art h ow fe as c y, that little satin slipper lt the l t thrill of her poor body .
C art E c But Mc y is not dinburgh , though mu h mixed with all
h was t my recollections of t e town . It with him hat I went up the
n windi g street to the castle, and looked at those fine fellows, the
- H wh o Seventy eighth ighlanders, garrison it ; with him I looked d at the big, ugly old gun , Mons Meg ; and with him I leane over f the battlement, and looked at the green park that lies at the oot
New T n in of the crags, and beyond at the ow , and the blue, shin g
F t One waters of the Frith of or h . dim day we went to Holy
n rood together, and wa dered through the bare, dismal rooms
R was where the cowardly, brutal murder of izzio perpetrated .
not n I wonder Queen Mary did go mad in such a place, a d
d as Mc art h o surroun ed by such people . It w C y w went with me to Greyfriars churchyard, where is the holy shrine of the C ove
nanters . n It is a black slab, set in the gray wall, and surrou ded
stifl n n not by clambering vines of a hard, , thor y ature, unlike
C who that of the ovenanters themselves, stood at bay against the
e T wicked C lav rhouse and his dragoons at Drumclog. here is a
o i n e ff long inscripti n verse comm morating the virtues, su erings
o C and death of the eighteen th usand martyrs of the ovenant.
Two old women from Glasgo w stood by while I read aloud the T f n e . i scription, and one of the women w pt hen the our of us
n wandered about in the churchyard, and read the inscriptio s ;
a the and coming upon the tomb of the f mily of Dalzell, one of women told me a fearful story of th e l as t moments of one Gen
wh o eral Dalzell, was a bloody persecutor, and was himself tor d I t H ’ mente before the time . was like hearing a tale from owie s “ ” T Scots Worthies . But times change . his old woman , it is MEM RI E OF S C OTLAND 1 71 O S .
- i true, kept her lamp trimmed and burning with the old fash oned
n K i oil ; but going on Su day to Greyfriars irk, expect ng to receive more of the same kind of illumination, I was astonished, not to
S c was say shocked . ervi e read from a book ; the minister preached
' C il ri ma e t ab out his travels on the ontinent, instead of the p g g o
was - n the New Jerusalem ; there a pipe orga , and the leading
o s an c s prano, who e face did not betray y deep cons iousness of per
o and s nal guilt, threw back her bonnet and sang with divers trills “ flnuri sh es C r , reate in me a clean heart, and renew a right spi it i W thin me . But I am in a fair way to add another volume to the books
n E that have been writte about dinburgh . What a queer place it is — i ts ts , to be sure, with its two towns the old and the new ; heigh and i ts depths ; i ts broad squares and its n arrow streets ; its won d rful e high houses , such as we dream of when we are sick unto
we on e death ; houses which fear are about to fall us, or w are to
E n - f . i all from di burgh , with its street sounds, which are all ts
n — s n ow the drone of the bagpipes ; the old Jacobite song , su g first by gallant men and lovely women wh o have been but dust
E and for a hundred years . dinburgh , with its memories, dark bright—crusted with the blood of murder— radiant with the E light of love or heroism . dinburgh , where the pale face of
Queen Mary looks out at the narrow window of the high tower ; where the Heart of Mid - Lothian looks up at you fro m th e side
. E " n e walk What town is like dinburgh the stra ge, the b autiful, the indescribable ?
Of A r - and y , my next stopping place, I have already spoken ;
s a h A r Ki it doe not m tter ow or why I went from y to rkcudbright, 172 A KAN AN A R AD S B O . and thence seven miles out among the sheep farms of the parish
f I t f e I e o . Borgue is su fici nt that w nt there .
A e e s white ston cottage in the midst of green , brok n pa tures ;
c e e c e s s all in hillo ks, and div rsifi d by lumps of low, ragg d bu he “ which the people call whins ; and this cottage the h ab i tati
’ of a sh e pherd s family "this was what I went out into the Scot “ ” n for se e I was c h e l . T So wilder ess to , and ontent frith of w was c was o a at our ba k door, and the weather fine for Sc tl nd,
All c c ff c ffs it was enough . the oast is full of li s, and the li a full of caves ; and sometim es little Katie and I climbe d down
an d e e e the caves, peered ther in , and som times we were cont nt
of ffs c - we look over the edges the cli , and wat h the brown sea
a wa T e swinging, in its l zy y, in the still, green water . h re are stories an d storie s about the se caves ; and Scott has used one of
G n a e e uv . O W them in Mannering the landw rd sid , walked
a s as e about the f rm , where the p tures are full of the hug , black ,
a a hornless Galloway c ttle ; and went to the vill ge of Borgue,
‘ ° a aflai r of c which is a sm ll , consisting two chur hes , and the “ ” c e manse, and the s hool hous , and the store, kept by a young “ e o as A c f ll w who w born in meri a, and so will be called Yankee
'
A c r . to the end of his days . But meri a is no unknown count y
One of the lighthouse keepe rs at Little Ross told me he was a
' e Buflalo New printer, and had work d in , York ; and from this
- n S cheese maki g country yo ung Scotchmen go to the United tates, to superintend cheese factories in the summer, and come back to
Scotland in the winter . S b i ll d o passed , in wandering about the shore and and ale, the peaceful days ; every hour was brightened by humble but hearty
A E OF TE GLIMPS ULS R.
” How i s old I e an ? —and h ow oes sh e s a ? —Na er Tand r l d d t nd pp y. HE “ ” h maxim that half a loaf is better than no bread, as
been re peated so often that mankind has come generally “ ” I as to believe it ; but in the case of Ireland, w obliged to dilute th e - maxim by one half, since my brief travels were confined to
L s C - Ulster alone, and ein ter, Munster and onnaught, three fourths
o of Ireland, were left unt uched .
T a one here are many w ys of getting to Ireland, but the
was i n not selected by myself , though perhaps the shortest use, L h was . T e the most frequented . It from Stranraer to arne gov
rnm n t e e e years ago expended a great d al of money at Portpatrick ,
n which is the point on the Scotch coast nearest to Irela d, but, like,
- A t many internal improvement schemes in merica, the port of Por
s n was S patrick mi carried, and the busi ess transferred to tranraer,
F s r n m R . u L at the head of Loch yan rom here the boat to a e, “ L whence it is a brief trip by rail to Belfast, the iverpool of ” Ireland .
I n Stranraer is a dirty town, more rish , I should judge, tha
e Scotch, at least the street music appear d to be entirely of the
e A i n shill lah and jig order . few fishing vessels lay the harbor, t A the o nly ste amer being the Larne boa . ltogether Stranraer is
’ — Art m s as . e u a slo w town as slow Ward s town in Indiana, where the plank road came i n three times a week . ( 174 ) 1 A GLIMPSE OF ULS TER. 75
Th e pas sage from Scotland to Ireland was effected on a bright
e a e day in about three hours . My trav ling comp nions w re a gen l man i a t e and his w fe from Girvan , and much t lk was indulged in
H a about Scotland and the Scotch, more especially the ighl nders .
Reference was made to the popular belief that a curse has followed th e descendants of the authors and perpetrators of th e massacre
I a of Glencoe, and was told, with every ppearance of sincerity, S that the family of Stair, who reside near tranraer, are to this
e day regarded with aversion, their ancestor having ord red that
s S far f . T n rightful butchery hi , considering that tranraer is dista t f s two rom the cene of the crime, and that centuries have elapsed
L n s i since ord Stair planned the exterminatio of the Macdonald , s
e ta . n c r inly treasuring up wrong with a vengeance My informa t, d however, appeare to entertain no doubt as to the existence of the f and eeling its cause .
n f Th e as - . o co t of Irela d must, I believe, be one the most uni
h I t e formly beautiful in t e world . c rtainly looked very bright to me was when first I saw it in the south, and it just as bright when “ Th e I came in sight of it in the north . expression Gem of the ” Sea is certainly not a great exaggeration when applied to Ire
se a land as seen from the .
L W - o e arne is a small but ell built town, but nobody st ps th re,
n - e Th e as - n it bei g merely a sort of side door to B lfast . l t amed
n e c i n tow is exce dingly well built, and the use of red bri k, as
A a e e E meric , reli v d the place of the heavy look of nglish and
c as T as Scotch cities of the same l s . here w little in the town that
I a e e brought up the popular idea of rel nd, xc pt the enormous n b o on e met do b e um er of baref oted girls in the streets . I not lieve I ever saw the female foot in i ts natural form (exce pt i n the 1 7 A KANSAN A ROAD 6 B .
as e m n c e of two very young girl babi s in who I had an i terest) ,
n He are e a until I we t to Ireland . re pl nty of feet that have p
aren tl e of p y never known the w ight a shoe, and this illustrated
o e s Th e s e the great doctrine of c mp n ation . poor Iri h p ople have
ff o e c su ered fr m war, p stilen e and politicians, but heaven has mer ci fully spared them fro m corns .
s me a of - I Belfast intere ted as the capit l the Scotch rish , a race
h e e e of people w o have l ft a de p mark on the Unit d States . It
as e c e e n w odd , so far from hom , to be onstantly r minded of W ster
H e e e —A C e Pennsylvania . ere wer the sam nam s ntrim, ol raine,
ou — Sligo, and so and among the people are to be found the
e same cast of features and the same acc nt, to say nothing of the
e w same Presbyt rianism, that have existed in the country of hich
h o Pittsburgh may be said to be the capital, for I do not know w
n C lo g . Dwelling with these people is a very considerable atholic
a was population , and the anniversary of the b ttle of the Boyne
F vs formerly celebrated by annual revivals of the case of ist .
Skull, but I believe the fighting has lacked somewhat in live
I e New li ness and i nterest of late years . suppos the row in York,
fe th e a I a w years since, over s me question, so far eclipsed the rish
T A n efforts that they were suspended . hus does merican e terprise
At an an everywhe re assert itself. y rate, the only trace of the ” e No cient animosity I saw in Ulst r was the sentence, Pope here, ' scribbled on the ceiling o f a railroad car .
was I looked about Belfast four or five hours, and greatly
n pleased with the public buildings, evidently planned by a perso
U . an greatly needed by the Government of the nited States, viz ,
as architect . Belf t has a plentiful supply of churches, some of
n t them extremely handsome . There may have been mo umen s to
1 78 A KANSAN A R AD B O .
n i n been excavated to a co siderable depth, and was piled great
- . T e o fields stacks here and there h re were p tato , of course, the
e a m potatoes being plant d in a f shion new to me, what looked
o a s e like l ng, n rrow garden bed , s parated by trenches, and in these
c e Th e s tren hes th re were rows of cabbages . grain harve t was i n
o e of n pr gr ss, and the majority the laborers appeared to be wome
Th e s e and girls . pasture were small, and fill d with cattle which
c did not appear to have the least tra e of blood , as unlike the
S c as E . N nglish and cot h cattle possible evertheless, the Irish
c run cattle trade is important, and the boats whi h to Liverpool “ ” a o - e E are alw ys full of these f ur foot d exiles of rin .
h e An C T towns trim, Ballymena, oleraine, and several smaller
n h places, appeared more thrifty tha the country about them . T e linen industry is very considerable, and builds up the towns .
T s - n here are few prettier little ights than a bleaching gree , with the long strips of white linen extended line after line on the bril
All n liant turf. these towns have a history, a part of the lo g and
a At A was troublous story of Irel nd . ntrim fought one of the
’ most destructive engagements in the rebellion of 1798 ; b ut it s a
e . F F r long story, and everybody is referred to roude and athe “ ” wh o f Burke, , rom the two extremes of the Irish Question, have
n battled over it with rare lear ing, ingenuity and force . — Th e people in the cars seemed of one sort simply Scotch — t t At Irish sturdy, Presby erian , sor of men, with one exception .
h o one station, there hopped into the car a man w actually seemed
Hi s o of another race . long hair hanging on his sh ulders, his
la e hi s a sharp b ck ey s , thin features, the complicated m ss of rags
e on that extend d from his neck to his bare feet, fitted him to go “ “ the stage and play the Sh augh raun without any further mak LI MP E OF LS TER 1 79 A G S U .
” E uni nte lli i ng up . If he spoke nglish , it was after a fashion
Hi s as ible . g to me movements were agile as those of a cat, and I as he rode from one station to the next, had abundant occupa
’ E B ouci cault s e ti on in studying him . xcept in plays, I n ver saw his like .
A s n - fields - t la t hedges, bleaching gree s, potato , peat stacks, “ Sh au hraun bogs and the g were, if not out of mind , out of I “ ” C sight ; and found rest and a light, and food and fire at ole
’ Th e fire e c n man s Hotel in Portrush . was w l ome in this norther most spot of north Ireland ; and as ruddy as the fire ligh t and “ ” was e stalwart as a bold dragoon my fir side companion, Mr .
’ Nei l wh o e s Anthony O , is connect d with all my memorie of the
’ Nei l e . . O plac and its vicinity Mr , a Dublin man by birth, and a
n e d s tow councillor of his native plac , belonge , as may be suppo ed,
Hi s to the old re ligion and the old race . recollection went back
’ “ ” to the days of O C on nell and repe al ; and very interesting were
t at e his reminiscences of the grea agit or, who, in my judgm nt, was possessed of more practical se nse than all the rest of the I rish
a politici ns before or since . Morni n g dawned on Portrush with a wind and sky that beto kened o c was and we i rain ; but the c un illor up early, nspected
Portrush quite thoroughly be fore breakfast . It is a little town
on a built a sandy shelf above a very be utiful beach . In a waste spot of ground is the one monument of the place, commemorating A th e . C t life and services of Dr dam larke, the commenta or, who “ ” as o a P w br ught up, the inscription s ys, at ortstewart, a little
n fe s th e tow a w miles away . Mo t of houses of Portrush are let for the accommodation of people wh o come to the place to bathe ; to - in enjoy the sea water, to wade in it and swim in it, and soak 1 80 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
“ ” e it, and even as my friend observed, to ile th ir hair wid it . We
no had use for any brine, and accordingly after breakfast we set
’ out for C a se n the Giant s u way in a jau ting car .
nOt car b ut I do know who invented the jaunting , he was an o l o rigina genius, and succeeded in c nstructing a vehicle which
s l looks unlike anything el e that runs on whee s . At the first glance a jaunting car seems to be all springs ; but really accom modates four persons besides the driver ; and be tween the seats
n whereon the passe gers sit, or rather cling, or perch, is a sort of box , or chest, which may be made to hold jugs and other bag
It was we W C gage . in a jaunting car, then, that ent to the ause
a n An d n w y, alo g the coast road ; and a fine road it is . all alo g
n was o one side the sea, whereof an Irish poet sings
Th e break ers lap and curl bel ow; And sea- bird s poised on win gs of snow
fitfull i h - s o e and fro Whirl y h r , And soa and and s m r, dip, ki . To eas and n o a was e of wa es t rth , t v , ’ om Antri m s coas of c ffs an d ca es Fr t li v , ’ ” s w th e e s ri m Blend ith blu ky s .
h e ff i e T cli s are frequently of snowy wh t limestone, and the — c onstant hammer and chisel of those steady workers the — waves has wrought in them arches of wondrous grace and
c beauty, through whi h the waves run to and fro continually, as
Th e e am if looking after their work . beach forms a succ ssion of
hi h aters C - p t e all the way to the auseway, as if the shore line was like that of an army driven back in places and holding its orig i nal position at others .
c Th e country along the coast, though mu h better cultivated
n r . than the cou t y elsewhere, is not thickly settled We passed
1 82 A KA AN A AD NS BRO .
the boat shot into them . Wondrous caves were these, whereof the
As floor is the green and shifting sea . regularly as beats the
’ ul e i n p se in one s wrist, the wav came rushing , and seemed as if i t th e would shut boat in with a wall of water, but then seemed
i ts n to change purpose, sa k, and glided under us, rose after it had passed, and went on to the end of the cave to hurl itself against
Th e the wall in foam and thunder . ceiling of the cave was a — mass of black they say it was lava once and rushed and hissed — , and burned but this I do not know ; it is cold enough now .
Next to the water - line was a vein of some mineral of a delicate pink, which blended with the water all around . Th e guide kept “ ” “ ” “ h a meti te ant con hlomerate ox up a jargon about y , g , and ” hide, that he did not understand, to say nothing of his auditors .
I would rather he had dropped geology and told us some lies
th e C . And we about the giant who built auseway after all this,
a rowed to the C useway itself. It did not realize my expectations in the matter of height above the water, but it is a growing wonder . I suppose all my readers are familiar with the machine called
- e a pile driver, and if so, they will please ke p it in mind while I
’ ex lain G a t try to p the i nt s C auseway . Suppose a party star ed to
a build a bridge, or r ther, road, of piles across an arm of the sea .
He drives several hundred feet from the shore out before he gives T up the undertaking . hose nearest the shore are the highest, and thence th e pile s grow shorter as the work advances into the
No o n . w water, till the last are alm st eve with the surface sup
of pose he has driven forty th ousand these piles ; suppose, farther,
e e e that all the pil s befor b ing driven were dressed, so that their
s sides matched ; suppose that ome had five, some six, some seven, LI MP E OF L TE 1 A G S U S R. 83
some eight sides ; but out of the forty thousand, only one had
. f three sides, and only three had nine sides Suppose that, a ter
d e e d all these hewe , jointed and match d pil s had been riven, they
t n e c were ins a taneously, s parately and ollectively turned into
’ — C Th e stone and you have the Giant s auseway . piles are, I f moreover, all of the same kind of stone . you would like to
s I i make one of the pile or columns, can g ve you the recipe "
- five e - five t Take twenty parts of clay, tw nty par s of lime, twenty
fi e - five fli nt v parts of iron , and twenty parts of y earth, and you “ ” e s — c have the ingr dient they can be pro ured at any drug store .
l c You wi l understand that the iron is used for oloring matter .
h e n are T colum s about the hue of dark iron ore .
Of o we C c urse landed at the auseway, and walked all about
th e a saw cc over the tops of pill rs, and the four e entric ones that
th e o stood out from the others on questi n of shape . We were beset by two old women, who followed us about, telling, in a most
c o r n lamentable voi e, a story of p verty, to which thei countryme “ Oh "” H responded only with a sarcastic, , murther owever, I i nvested a coin of the realm in photographs and benedictions, the latter of whi ch I regarded as havin g been bought at a very hand
u e L e s i n some fig r . ad n with blessing , photographs and general
' f we c e the blufl a e ormation, limb d gain and wend d our way back t to Por rush, stopping on the way to look at the ruins of Dunluce — C astle a mass of broken walls standing on a crag that goes down sheer to the water and when you look over the brink you can see the breakers springing up at you like a drove of white wolves .
' c sufleri n I suppose there has been as mu h crime, g, sin and blood i n c the past of Dunlu e as in that of the other old castles, which ,
H da T thank eaven , have had their y . here are no tenants now 1 84 A KANSAN A ROAD B .
e u i n t- xcept the peacef l sheep that graze the old cour yard . Th e
a n n t n w tchma of these walls now is the wi d, tha wa ders about day
nd i i ts a n ght, and with invisible fingers keeps the floor of one
an B ut little tower always cle . the people thereabouts say the sweeper is the Banshee . f Going back toward Bel ast, I parted with my old friend of
- r at C n was on some thirty six hou s olerai e, as he going to Dublin .
b ad i But I business elsewhere, as I will expla n .
One of the early con tractors on that singularly ill - constructed
n was an . job, my educatio , Irish priest I remember very little of th e F F t not n labors of ather laher y (that was his ame) , save that he was accustomed to stand me . up i n a corner and try to teach “ fl m n T as me to speak in the orid Irish a ner, here w a sown d of ” ri velry bee noight; but I remember finding i n his library a thin — book with a flaming orange cover of which I did not then un
n I t as — r derstand the significa ce. w a poem o rather a rhyme “ ” e r How r f n i about the Si ge of Der y . such a work eve ou d ts
a n n no for as w y into the collectio of his revere ce, I have idea, it w
nt n the most ferociously Protesta publicatio I have ever read . How it did go on about King James and th e rest "B ut I remem “ ” a for one the t n ber, bitter as it was, it had good word of opposi io , th e subject of the melan choly couplet "
“ ’ a e a i ck Sarsfield one of K J ames s es comman e s Br v P tr , ing b t d r , ” Now es th e oo for c ows i n lan e s. li , f d r , F d r
T L n n his little but savage poem, perhaps, led me to go to o do
At nt t re derry . any rate I we he .
Th e road from C oleraine runs most of the way along a plain
m n hi n by the sea, though someti es u der the shadow of gh mou
i n . Of n a r er for one Ball rena ta s the poi ts of the ro d, I ememb , y ;
1 6 A KAN AN A R AD 8 S B O .
n wh o n copal clergyma nerved up the starvi g garrison till help,
n m alker l—h e . W r lo g delayed, ca e Poor lived too long. Fo a while he was regarded as a hero ; then h e was brought into a long and a war ggravating of pamphlets ; then , not satisfied with being
e ofli ce f a hero onc , he, notwithstanding his clerical , ought as a
was volunteer at the battle of the Boyne and killed, and his death K only drew from ing William, in whose cause he fell, the remark “ m And b us ess . as that he had no there this w the end of it all, a ” most lame and impotent conclusion .
Derry has greatly changed since the days of the siege, and ex
. Th e th e F tends far outside of the walls old arm of oyle, that
d one then encircle it on side, is dry land now, and covered with
was houses . It strange to stand on ground where men, emaciated
n with hunger, wor with watching and fighting, clung to their old R C guns to the last, rather than yield to a oman atholic enemy,
’ e and look across to the old lin s of King James s army, and see
R C o rising there the finest church in Derry, a oman ath lic church .
’ co T Walker s old foes had me again , and this time to stay . ime, m ore powerful than armies, had done what the sword could not
Th e e c ad do . pri st, the minister of pea e, h succeeded where the
e soldier had fail d .
- was I could not find in the town a local guide book, but told by some one that I might meet on the wall an old man wh o for
h ad was th many years lingered about, and who a repository of e
a for history and tr ditions of Derry . I looked him, and made
b ut inquiries, found him not ; and they said, carelessly, that he '
e . It had not been se n for some months, and was probably dead affected me deeply, this thought of the poor old fellow, haunting t the old wall, reciting to strangers for year af er year with honest LI MP E OF L TER 1 A G S U S . 87 pride the glories of his town ; and at last suffere d to drag himself
b e away in a corner and die and forgotten . Such is the fate of
’ the world s humble historians .
In the evening, I went away from Derry by the road I came,
L Ball rena past imavady, past y , past Downhill, where the waves
n r C . ea ly meet the mountain , and so to oleraine again It was
I —and dark when I reached Belfast, where took the steamer that
n is all I k ow about Ireland .
P IKE F P IKE’S PEAK O .
HO E S who happened to be on the Plains in the old days, “ ” — whe n the star of empire was on wheels wagon wheels ;
C l n was th e N A when a ifor ia known as the land of gold, orth mer
El on th e e - ican Dorado, must have noticed broad, whit , sun baked hi ssa th e s ghway, the pa ge of a team, bea ts being called, by a con “ ” r l n h e struction of the plu al pecu iar to their owner, oxe s . T
“ ” “ wheelers were kn own as Buck and Bright the leaders as “ ” “ ” Tige and Golden th e former as an allusion to his supposed to- b e fe rocious and untamable disposition ; the latter possibly out
of e ct of compliment to the destination the outfit, or their prosp s,
o c e hi s but pr bably on a count of the dull y llow color of hide, whi ch was suppose d to resemble the metal which had led hi s human friends to undertake the long and toils ome journey .
wh o hi s Beside the oxen walked a man, , in his length, loose
“ ” nes b atteredness h ue hi s e re s, his , and the of outer garm nts, m n of l - o c i ded one an i ly j inted stovepipe in a country s hool house.
Hi s n ot a c . He indulged in no f n y colors tone was dim, to say
Th e c hi e subdued . sho k of hair w ch straggl d from beneath his
D DR S S e i e e e o e th e a sas S a e s o ca Soc e at AN A E d l v r d b f r K n t t Hi t ri l i ty , o ka e e a 19 1877. T p , F bru ry , 1 92 PI KE F PI KE ’ P K O S EA .
n m slouch hat extended to the upper bou dary of a coat, called, fro ” i - ff the princ pal dye stu used in coloring it, butternut . Th e coat d exten ed to pantaloons of the same color, which were finally lost — — in tremendous boots enormous piles of rusty leather red from
“ ” ’ n woe . Th e lo g travel, want and man s countenance, painted “ ” was - e n by the hand of the ager, of a dull y llow hue, not u like “ ” G n F the complexion of the ox, olde . rom one corner of a gash in this attractive visage called by courtesy a mouth , trickled “ ” fl e a uid called amb er, which word I take to be a corruption of
Th e a amber . man carried no we pons except a whip, with a
n - i n hickory ha dle long enough for a liberty pole, with a lash
m n n Th e n was n . Th e a proportio . whole thi g lame tably slow
as t n shambled along if his boo s were made of lead, his loose joi ts threatening to dissolve their union and erect several separate
f The n n con ederacies . oxe jogged alo g like machines, with the exception of an occasional dash of enterprise on the part of “ ” man n n n - Tige . Yet the kept up a co sta t, rambli g, loud voiced,
n n th e n complaining conversatio with the oxe , words varying o ly ” “ ” " Yon " B ri ht" in the stress or accent, as , Buck You, g rising
n n t m into an angry s arl whe addressed to the Ishmael of the ea , “ ” T E " Occasi onall when n You , IG yr the wagon slid dow a
n - declivity, or had to be dragged up an ascent, the rou d shouldered H driver seemed to grow taller . e drew himself out like a spy
n a glass, and swinging the lo g lash around , gave it crack that
m n sounded like the report of a rifle, at the same ti e projecti g “ ” n n "Haw " t from his leather lu gs the ejaculation, Whoa tha
' off rang far out over the plain, and nearly took the oxen their
n So far we have said nothing about the wagon or its conte ts .
1 94 PI KE OF PI KE ’ PEAK S .
C a from these counties to lifornia . In consequence, the traveler
n e n t i n bou d for the States, m eti g eams, and ask g the usual ques ” ? was s r tion , Where are you from an wered , f equently, with “ ” i i n o a Pike county, mean ng s me c ses one Pike county, and in
e T s th e some cas s the other . hi led to general impression that
c everybody on the road was from Pike ounty, or that th e i nh ab i t nt e H a s of Pik had all taken the road . e nce the general name “ ” e as to n e of Pik s, applied emigra ts, specially to those traveling
e e from Missouri, and, g nerally thos migrating from southern T — Illinois and southern Indiana . hus the popular song the only “ ” e poetry I ever heard of appli d to this class of movers, com menees n ame i s J oe owe s My it B r , ’ I ve got a broth er Ik e ; ’ I m o for C ali forn b und y, ’ And I m all th e wa om ke ” y fr Pi .
Th e o t o impressi n conveyed by all this, that the w Pike coun
- on ties mentioned are semi heathen regi s, is certainly not correct
e o one at present . Pik county, Miss uri, is of the most flourishing of the Mississippi river counties—remarkable for the number and eminence of its politicians and lawyers ; while of the general elevation and e xcellence of that section Of I llinois of which Pike
' e of county forms a part, it is only nec ssary to say that the author
as this address w born in the adjoining county .
e t o But how did it come about that not only thes w counties, but in the United States ten countie s and twenty - odd townships and towns bear the name of Pike ? I venture to say there are some even in this intelligent audience wh o cannot readily answer
e o T the qu sti n . here are doubtless hundreds of Pike county
- To school children wh o do not know . answer this question, ’ PI KE OF PI KE S PEAK. 1 95
m n l a m n a o g others ; to reca l , if but for brief mo ent, the ame of — a half- forgotten hero interesting to Kansas people as the first intelligent American explorer of their State is the object of hi t s address .
e was 1 Z bulon Montgomery Pike born a long time ago, as s
. f n evidenced by his name I suppose it is orty years, at least, si ce any father or mother i n this country has called a son b y th e “ ” - H ld T . e was f O estament name of Zebulon , in act, born i n A 27th 1 L m Ne 779 . as a berton, w Jersey, pril , He w born amid ’ H the scenes of Washington s brilliant victory over the essians,
L T e o (for amberton is now a part of r nt n , ) and but three years
o c n after that event . When Washingt n re eived his famous ovatio
T 1788 was i n at renton , in , it is possible that the baby Pike held
se e arms to the hero pass under a triumphal arch, while the
Ne wa youthful beauty of w Jersey strewed his y with flowers . If Hi was P was. s as an ever a man born a soldier, ike father w ofli cer R m recom in the evolutionary ar y, and was retained or
ar Of missioned in the regular army after the close of the w . the
e He as boyhood of our hero, little has b en preserved . w , how
e a bo n ever, w know, bright, courageous, studious y, and whe but
’ little more than a boy was commi ssi oned an ensign in his father s
He as e on company of infantry . w born, w may say, a battle
Hi s i h e field . first serious work lif was to assume the duties of
f e l an o fic r in the army of his country ; in that service he ived, nd r e a in that se v m he died .
’ n a While Pike s arr tives are spiritedly written , and in good
E n nglish, they betray no evidence of very great literary attai
He was ofli cer ments . , however, for the young army of his time,
L F n d . He n well e ucated early acquired a k owledge of atin, re ch KE F PI KE ’ PEAK 1 96 PI O S . and Spanish and mathematical attainments certainly sufli ci ent for the purposes of a military explorer .
Barb Marb is 1803 . e o im One day i n April, , Mr , at that t e at the
rt t i n h ead of th e French treasury depa ment, ook a walk a garden
n was n i n r s. . L i . n Pa i Mr ivi gston , who di ing w th Mr Mo roe,
hi m Marb oi s n . Aft mfiee asked ( ) to come i to the house er , the
L n n French secretary of the treasury asked Mr . ivi gsto to step into
. Th e n n n r n another room a moment two ge tleme had a co ve satio .
n . St It was o e of several such Sometimes they were at . C loud ;
l th e F C s ometi mes Tal eyrand was a party ; sometimes irst onsul,
n r "and s t was on Bo apa te the re ult of these various cha s , that the
A 1 3 as e n 3 0th of pril, 80 , w definitely settled the great st la d trade
as Am n nm nt not o n record . So big w it, that the erica Gover e did k n nor r ft m n i t had ow, did it realize for yea s a erward, how uch la d
was . T c bought, or really where it located hat ac urate scholar,
" n l L u at n Se ator Inga ls, says we bought o isiana the rate of a hu dred
As i n est e c n . i acres for a e t we paid , princ pal and inter , before w
r s wh o e be got th ough, tho e are quick at figur s may able to form some idea of the extent of the purchas e . We bought
The E New Or ns i t in good time . nglish were ready to take lea , and n o S n we , duri g the closing days fthe pa ish occupancy , our Not r e se lves were about ready to take it by force . th ee w eks
e s T n b efore th e First C onsul sign d the treaty of ce sion, alleyra d
~ t t L . . told Mr. Livings on tha ouisiana was not theirs to cede Mr
d b e . L. a Livingston smilingly responde , that ( Mr ) knew a gre t
T r r . L n deal better. alley and still pe sisting, Mr ivingsto , still
s to n smiling, I suppose, remarked , that he was plea ed lear that
as i n t o u t Louisiana still belonged to Spain, that even we sh ld ake
T o er possession of it anyhow . his is supp sed to have accel ated
1 98 PI KE OF PI KE ’ PEA S K.
h e think . T party were going north , and it kept constantly get
Th e ting colder . powder fell into the river, and had to be fished
a out . In undert king to dry it in pots, an explosion occurred . “ l L . e ieut Pike remarks that it had nearly b own up a t nt, and two ” o — h e as or three men with it . P or Pike w yet to experience a
Th e — greater and more fatal explosion . party went ou north all
Th e a the time . river froze up, and then they dr gged their outfit T on the ice . hey reached the Sioux country, and spent much
- n time with that deeply inte resting people . O e of the chiefs was
- - - I m called Th e Wind that Walks . judge from the na e that he was a great politician .
Pike spent the winter among the frozen lakes, the snowy prai
a N ries and hemlock sw mps of the far orth , and collected a vast amount of information about the country and the numerous I h
wh o a dians inhabited it . In re ding his narrative, you find tribes s e o poken of as num rous and p werful, that have now faded, not
of only from the face the earth , but from the memory of man .
A e f ft r this toilsome trip, it would seem that our young o ficer ought to h ave been allowed to rest awhile in comfortable quarters
L c c h e A 30 1806 at St . ouis, to whi h pla e returned, pril , . But it
c is doubtful if Pike wished to rest ; in fa t, it is almost certain that di d he not .
Th e military ofli ce r in charge of the Western country at that
G e J time was en ral ames Wilkinson , a restless, bombastic, fussy
old a e f s. As gentlem n , with a rar faculty for getting into di ficultie
f e Revoluti on arv c e e an o fic r in the army, he was onc rn d in the
C a a c onway c b l , a plot to supplant Washington, and pla e in his
e Ge e a Ga c wh o a e a st ad n r l tes, an offi er ft rw rds got beautifully
th e s C a He e a thrashed by Briti h at mden . turn d up in the rmy, I KE F PI KE ’ PEAK 1 9 P O S . 9
Le i n after being for awhile a merchant at xington , Kentucky,
1 c L F 1 803 c 179 ; re eived ouisiana from the rench in , and ontrived to get mixed up in the Burr bus iness to such an e xtent that no
' h e H s was . e body knows to thi day, I believe, which side on was
d - e investigate , court martialed, and acquitt d ; went into the war of
1 812; served on the C anada frontier ; was a conspicuous failure ;
- an d l was court martialed again, again acquitted ; and fina ly, there
t e beingno oppor unity in those days to enter the lectur field, he
r C wrote his memoirs, and reti ed to the ity of Mexico, where he died . General James Wilkinson i n his day was probably the subject of more uncomplimentary remarks than any man of his caliber
I e in the country , and d em it no more than justice to say for him,
was as fr that, with all his faults , he the steadf t iend of Zebulon M .
’ It was in obedi ence to General Wilkinson s orders that Pike — K started on his second expedition the tour to ansas . Pike left
F th e l Belle ontaine, a little town near the mouth of Missouri, Ju y
He O wh o r 1 5 18 6 . n e , 0 had with him a party of sages had bee
His deeme d from captivity among the Pottawatomies . instruo tions were to take these back to their frie nds on the headwate rs
sa K of the O ge river, on the border of what is now ansas ; then to
s a R pu h on to the P wnee republic, on the upper epublican river, on the way inte rviewing the Kaws ; then to go south to the Ar
d th e n kansas and Re rivers and try to find e C omanch s . O arriv L Ar . o and ing at the kansas, ieut Wilkins n (a son of the General ) a party were to be de tache d and se nt down that stream to Fort
A a d ms, on the Mississippi, while Pike was to make his way to
Red e Nat h i h e s L c toc . the river and desc nd it to , ouisiana 200 PI KE OF PI KE ’ P K S EA .
I have spoken of the uncertainty that prevailed in regard to
‘ th e extent F of our purchase from rance, in the vast, vague region
L i i . e ta known as ou s ana In cons quence of this uncer inty, Pike was not n New warned to encroach upo the limits of Mexico, or A New . s we Spain shall see, this is precisely what he did .
Pike ascended the Osage river in accordan ce with his i nstruc
Th e O - tions . sage is now a half forgotten thoroughfare . Within
h as an i forty years, however, it been mportant highway ( if that t may erm be applied to a river) of commerce . In the old time it
as o Th e C w a traveled r ad . atholic missionary on his way to the O sages, followed the stream ; trappers and traders innumerable
re - crossed and crossed it, and worked their way up and down it .
was n K t It the road from souther ansas, and wha is now the I n
T n T - dian erritory, and eve exas, to the great trading post of St . L — ouis the religious, commercial and political capital of upper
Louisiana .
The O C n sage, the continuation of our own Marais des yg es, is
s a lovely stream ; a succession of placid reache of deep water,
s . On eparated by rippling, shoaly shallows the one bank or the o s ff ther for miles, ri e cli s, sometimes to the height of two hundred f feet ; sometimes as smooth and uni orm as the wall of a house, dropping sheer from the dark cedars that crown their crest to the
s to water, but oftener worn in fantastic shape , jutting over at the p like the leaf of a table ; stained brown and red and yellow by the iron within and the weather without ; their bases hid i n fallen masses of rock and the narrow belt of green trees that grow to the
Th e edge of the bright water . windings of the stream are contin uous ; a few strokes of the oar bringing the voyager i n view of an h ff entirely new prospect. T e shadow of the cli s sometimes hides
’ 202 PI KE OF PI KE S PEAK.
not n L n they were probably far from the eastern li e of in county .
Th e Osages were found to be greatly under the influence of the
u c e l As an then and now powerf l omm rcia house of C houteau . evidence of the early influence of the French over th e Western
was C htoka C Indians, Pike told by ( possibly hetopa) that he, a
’ ” L O was i n th e n e a i n ittle sage, action know as Braddock s D fe t, 1 55 t 7 , and that the Kaws arrived af er the battle ; that they were
l o l absent from their vi lages seven m nths, and were ob iged to eat T their horses on their return . his is a specimen of early Kansas enterprise .
’ L O e eaving the sage villages with hors s procured there, Pike s
i L . H party, cons sting of himself, ieut Wilkinson, Doctor John .
R l e C obinson , Sergeants Ba lenger and Me k, orporal Jackson, six B t teen private soldiers and aroney Vasquez, in erpreter, and a number of Osage Indians, started on a journey destined to be
e Th e much longer than they expect d . course of the party was
to P r generally the south and southwest, till ike a rived on the
e as n summit of a high ridg , which he describes a dividing li e O A between the waters of the sage river and the rkansas, ( the
e s final syllable of which word Pike invariably sp ll saw. ) He
“ " Th e says, what many people have said since prairie, rising and falling in beautiful swells, as far as the sight can extend, ” e e a n e presented a very b autiful app rance . Marchi g w stward ,
ac Neosh o T the party re hed the , then called Grand river . his
e o crossed , th y f llowed up the stream , keeping on the divide as
Ne h An os o . Pike says, between the Verdigris and the immense
e a amount of game was se n . Pike says that, st nding on a hill one
ff s The day, he saw in one view, bu aloe , elk, deer and panthers .
as country is described dry and rocky, and water scarce .
n 17th P n s O the of September, ike reached , goi g northwe t, K ’ EA 203 PI KE OF PI E S P K. what he describes as the main southwest branch of the Kansas
I t H . Two o river . was the Smoky ill days after, they cr ssed a
K e . large branch of the ansas , strongly impr gnated with salt It
e began to rain , and Pike says, that whil in camp, we employed ourselves i n reading and in pricking on our arms with India ink some characters which will frequently bring to our mind our
e a our forlorn and dreary situation , as w ll as the happiest d ys of
” ne c c e was lives . O sour e of the trouble whi h oppressed Pik , the
O o conduct of the sages who f rmed part of the expedition , and “ of a whom he describes as a faithless set poltroons, inc pable of a ” On 23d e great and gen e rous action . the , a stream was r ached
n which Pike believed to be the Solomo . A thi bout s time, Pike discovered something that must have astonished hi m as much as did the footprints in the sand the worthy Robinson C rusoe . It was the trail of three hundred
was . Th e S o i n Spanish troops . It even so panish auth rities
’ e S . L s a N w pain, hearing from St oui of the dep rture of Pike s
l ar f L . Ma es c expedition , had sent ieut g , a distinguished o fi er, with one a hundred dr goons and five hundred mounted militia, from Fe n Santa , and led a imals to the number of two thousand and
- h d Mal ar s five t e Re e . es eventy , to intercept him on riv r g
n Red n to A as marched dow river, the north the rkans , and there
n - u th e e leavi g his used p animals, marched north to Salin , where
Pa neas I atans we he met the w and the , or, as call them, the
C . T Mal ares e e . omanches hese last, g receiv d with great c remony
He l sa lied forth with five hundred men , all on white horses, ex
ffi c on cept himself and two principal o ers, who were mounted
s was a n o black one , and received on the pl in by fiftee hundred f th e v i n sa age chivalry their gayest robes . 204 PI KE OF PI KE ’ PEAK S .
Mal ares g did not intercept Pike ; but they met afterwards, as
We shall see .
Th e e e w exp dition reach d the Pa nee village, high up on the
2 th Th en ~ th r i m 5 . e e Republican , on the of September was an m c ense amount of riding around in ircles, and smoking of pipes K e O . between Pik and his sages, and the aws and Pawnees Pike
S n e th e found that the pa iards had l ft several flags in village, and the banner of Spain was floating from a pole in front of the head
’ me n chief s lodge . Pike had twenty white against the Pawnee nation ; but he ordered the Spanish flag hauled down and the
— a American colors run up and it w s done . Pike took possession S of the panish flag ; but the chief seeming grieved about it, Pike
c gave it back to him , with stri t injunctions not to rais e it again and so the stars and stripes first kissed th e breezes of the Republi
e e L can valley . Whil at the Pawn e village, Pike heard that ewis and C l arke h ad safely desce nded the Missouri river on their re
h a f T e o u . turn . st r empire was p and shining
ma as e I y say in p sing, that this villag , according to tradition , was on the present site of Scandia .
Th e Pawnees became insolent and thievish ; but Pike over
H n awed them by his bearing . e never yielded anythi g to an
a Indi n . From the Pawnee town the route bore southwest to the Arkan
c e sas . Pike describes the pla e wh re he reached the river, as a
low on s e swampy, prairie the north id , and on the south a sandy,
Th e sterile desert . river he describes as five hundred yards wide
n from bank to ba k , the banks not more than four feet high , and thinly covered with cottonwoods .
L . n On the 28th of October the party divided . ieut Wilkinso
206 PI KE OF PI KE ’ PEAK s .
i n a a ce th e e a o c n s o a eo s s f c en for bund n , rth pr du i g p nt n u ly u fi i t the ir sup
o t o i n w e an d s mme w c means e e s m ec p r , b th int r u r, by hi h th ir h rd ight b ome immensely numerous ; but th e wood n ow i n th e country would not b e suffi c e for a mo e a e o a o mo e a ee e a s and e i nt d r t p pul ti n r th n fift n y r , th n it would b e out of th e es o to n k of s an y of i n ma ac o es con se q u ti n thi u ing it nuf t ri , q ue ntly th eir houses would b e built of mud brick s ( like those i n New
Spa b poss me may mak e th e sco e of coa m n es w c in ) ; ut ibly ti di v ry l i , hi h ” would ren der th e country h abitable .
“ ” Th e proud Kansan of 1877 living in a dobe b ut and tend i ng goats "How was that for a prophecy ?
not Pike, though a very devout person , saw something provi
He v " dential in this . sa s
“ From th ese imme nse prairies may arise on e great advantage to th e
e S a es vi z th e restri cti on of our o a o to ce ta n m s and Unit d t t , p pul ti n r i li it ,
h n on Our c z e ns e n so th ereby a continuation o f t e U i . iti b i g prone to ram
e es on th e o e s w b and ex e d ems , , o ecess b e ling, t n ing th lv fr nti r ill thr ugh n ity , constrained to limit th eir extent on th e west to th e borders of th e Missouri
nd ss ss w e e ea e th e a es ca a e of c a o to a Mi i ippi , hil th y l v pr iri , in p bl ultiv ti n, ” h c n th e wand ering aborigines of t e ou try .
l n If Pike were a ive now, he might ask himself the questio , Does restriction restrict ? ” P It must be remembered , however, that ike was a soldier, not
T c e o h a farmer . hat he came into the ountrydir ctly fr m the eavy
O a c woods of the s ge, whi h made the prairie seem more desolate ;
a i c h e e th e th t n mar hing k pt high and dry divides ; and, further
o more, that nothing could be more mon tonous than his method of — traveling creeping along all day between the green earth and
o a the blue sky, or the br wn e rth and the gray sky, as the case
h e might be, with but two men in the party with whom could converse on terms of familiarity ; harassed by anxie ty ; freque ntly
a o e at a loss as to his course, and fin lly lost alt g ther. It is not PI KE F PI KE ’ PEA 20 O S K. 7
“ ” strange that Pike did not indulge in the gentle ze phyr line of
r i K n a - at a our i rema ks ent rely proper to a a s s real est e gent of t me .
K a we a As Pike is now leaving ans s, might now t ke leave of him hi s i e d o e , but brave young l f , so quickly spe , was so cr wd d
a I ce i o with incident, th t crave y our patien wh le I menti n as i briefly as poss ble what further befell him .
o i as h e o n ai o It kept gr w ng colder approached the m u t ns, f llow
h e e f Ar H as t r o s . e th e r t ing, he did, cou s the kansa saw, for fi s
o es In s e c time, wild h rs he saw dian frequ ntly, and o casionally the trail of th e Sp ani sh e xpediti o n ; and on th e 1 5th of Nove mbe r he saw something els e .
“ ’ At two c i n f r a I c ul o lock the a te noon, s ys he, thought I o d di s i n o n i our i c re a t guish a m u ta n to r ght, whi h appea d like small
e - s was s il con blue cloud ; view d it with a spy glas , and t l more
i n t e et l a t Dr m o . R fir ed my conjec ur , y on y communic ted it obin
n wh o was i n wi o a so , front th me ; but in half an h ur it appe red
h e ur l r in full view before us . W n o smal party ar ived on the bi ll cc e x n , they, with one a ord, gave three ch ers for the Me ica ” n mountai s .
P e a What was before and around ik at th t moment, is thus
“ e K ns to a d scribed by a a as writer, once known us as De ne Monahan
“ ' I ou s an o a ce ai b lufi on th e a oi re ou wi ll b e a f y t d up n rt n Purg t , y
c a o of sce e n ot easi for o e i n f ure wa e i s Eas wa spe t t r a n ly g tt n ut nd r ng . t rd s e c es i m awa th e w n i n se alle of th e ea i est i e tr t h d ly y i d g , dgy v y dr r r v r in — th e es e e ess sa es o ate . All a o ou are th e e ess un W t tr l , ndy , d l r und y ndl
ti f th w l estwa i s some i ou a c e dula ons o e i dern ess . W rd th ng y nti ipat rather h an see — a e m st o ms i o th e o i z o w e th e wo t v gu , i y f r ly ng up n h r n . But hil rld i s et ark aroun and e ow ou an d e re i s sca ce th e fai es i y d d b l y , th r nt t t nge of ra i n h e eas ou c a ce to loo k o wa ou see some i g y t t, if y h n n rth rd y th ng
m i a i ns th k w l c i so a e s . first i s a osea e o s a e ess r n, h gh up g t y At it r t gl , h p 208 PI KE OF PI KE ’ PEAK s .
and e e e ecomes a c o cas e a eme e an n und fin d . Th n it b l ud tl , b ttl nt d d i ac cess e a e i n m s and w a o e i n c a of c a n ibl , dr p d i t, ith h v r g urt in h ngi g purpl e .
as ows w e and c ea e th e a e o i es of a m But it gr hit r l r r, v gu utl n ighty shape
n w wa owa th a ea e ow s e c o e e a . a ou see i s pp r b l it, tr t hi g d n rd t rd rth Wh t y th e lo p nn ac e w c h as eamed s i n th e fl a k ess sun - k ssed fty i l hi h gl fir t ying d r n , i — m s of ll th n ’ and o i e i n th e os o a e ce i es . I Z i s Pi ke s P eak gl r fi d r y rning tur , ” s m es awa ixty il y .
Pike measured the altitude of the mountain afterwards named i n He his honor . made out its height above the level of the
e to e The prairi , be feet, and f et above the sea . journal says "“ In our wanderings in the mountains from the 14th N 27th of ovember to the of January, it was never out of our ” e sight, except when we were in a valley . Pike, whose near st
n i naccess approach to the Peak was fiftee miles, believed it to be
K s ible, but climbing it has been an everyday matter since a ansa
A H s d wh o woman , Mrs . Julia rchibald olme , the first la y ever attained the summit, set the brave example . We will not dwell upon the days of cold and hunger which d followe , when the emaciated men , clad only in summer clothes,
e n dragged th ir frosted limbs through the gatheri g snow, while the e a e e . poor st rved , bruised hors s, f ll sensel ss in their tracks Pike
Red r had wandered far from rive , and pushing to the southwest,
not Ri o G N e On reached that stream, but the rande del ort . the west fork of this stre am he erected a stockade according to the
art n principles of military , for Pike was a soldier in everythi g,
e S and her he was eventually captured by a force of panish troops,
Th e being informed that he was in Spanish territory . party were m Fé Th e Ne w- arched in the direction of Santa . Mexican people
e At were kind to the poor frozen, famished soldi rs . every house
i th e men the women nvited party to stop and eat, and the old
210 PI KE F PI K ’ P O E S EAK.
mountai fi a m ' beauty of , v le and strea , appears to have had a good
e He n eye for female lovelin ss . invariably otices the ladies he ‘ t met ; his general comment being, that, though a trifle oo h eavy
e ‘ as to weight, they c rtainly had the finest eyes in the world . Pike seems to have been a great favorite also with the worthy
s wh o b padre of the country, la ored many a time and oft for his conversion to the C atholic religion .
was 1807 It on the first day of July, , when, all his wanderings
f Natchitoch es L and suf erings and delays past, Pike reached , ou i si ana , the point for which he had set out a year before . Here he closes his journal with the words "
“ Language cannot express th e gay ety of my heart when I once more
e e th e s a a of m co wa e a o " l a "c e I th e e e b h ld t nd rd y untry v d l ft Al h il ri d , v r sac e ame of co i n w c i s em ace a of k e e s and r d n untry , hi h br d th t indr d, fri nd , ” c i s ea t th e so of man every oth e r ti e whi h d r o ul .
to In a letter General Wilkinson , Pike once said
Did not an all- ruling passion sway me irresistibly to th e profession of
ms nd th e a s o f m a o wo o s ce a e es e m ar a p th ilit ry gl ry , I uld l ng in h v r ign d y swo for th e a cot w e e eace ea and co e wo at eas b e rd rur l , h r p , h lth nt nt uld l t ” ma es our in t .
Hi s w s as n desire for advancement a gratified , and he w soo pro moted to be major of infantry .
’ 1812 s a war In , five year fter Pike s return from the West, the
'
a o . I t with Gre t Britain br ke out was a stupid war, brought about
ffe c by the insu rable bullying of the British government, whi h at
’ e ff that time seemed det rmined to mix in everybody s a airs, and provoke the united hostility of all creation . We were illy pre
Our pared for war . leading military men were a lot of old
R " was H who humbugs left over from the evolution such ull,
e o wh o n surrendered at D troit ; such was Wilkins n , misma aged ’ A 211 PI KE OF PI KE s PE K.
A e e everything . s a result, the en my burn d our capital, while
- Admiral C ockburn ravaged the hen roosts of the C hesapeake .
n e c con O the water we had gen rally good suc ess, and modified “ ” siderab l . On y the opinion that Britannia rules the waves land,
me n e o New O our sometim s st od , as at rleans, and sometimes they
m off . ee sca pered , as at Bladensburg We succ ded in making some generals out of young men like Winfield Scott before the war was
e o over, and so saved ourselv s from t tal disgrace .
ar s I n 1810 n Pike haile d the w with enthu iasm . he had bee
o f a placed in command of a regiment regular inf ntry, which he
e f as hi s e — the drill d a ter a f hion of own, in thr e ranks third rank
o o being armed with sh rt guns and pikes, an idea their c mmander
th e a probably got from l ncers he saw in Mexico .
- e In a short time, though only thirty four y ars of age, he was a
a e - e r brig di r g neral on the northe n frontier .
If you go to the Kansas State library you will find i n the
’ H e Niles s R s for dingy, narrow pages of old ez kiah egi ter the year 1 13 8 , the following dedication "
I N TE S T I M O N Y OF R E S P E C T T O T H E M E M O R Y OF E L O N O N TG O ER E Z BU M M Y P I K , BR G D R G N R L I A IE E E A , WHO F L GLORIOUSLY B FORE YORK I UPP R C AD EE E , N E AN A , AND A E S L A R E N C E J M W , C P N I N THE N A TAI AVY , KILL D ON B O RD C S P K FIG I G S A TH H A A , HT TH HA O E E E E E N E NN N, IS VOL E OF THE EE L R S ER I S D D C ED TH UM W K Y EGI T E I AT . Th e former happily e xpired on th e conq uered fl ag of th e foe "th e “ ’ a e e e c a m DO GI UP S IP "” l tt r di d x l i ing, N T VE THE H 21 2 PI KE OF PI KE ’s PEAK .
h T e story is soon told .
Our troops and fleet, the latter under command of C ommodore ’ H C n . On 25th A 1813 ha ney, lay at Sackett s arbor the of pril, ,
.the fleet took on board men , and sailed for York ( now To
' r R H h . S eafle onto) , a fortified post commanded by General oger ,
- - h o b was . w , y the way, a native of Boston Pike was in immediate 27th .charge of the troops, and, on the morning of the , watched
n c . Our men their debarkatio from the de k of one of the vessels ,
. n o landing, were met by a sharp fire from a body of British rifle
“ ’ m en . and Indians Pike, witnessing the fray, said, I can t stand ” e e ff this any long r, jump d into a boat, ordering his sta to come
m As n on, and pulled for the shore a id a shower of shot . soo as he reached the shore he formed his line and drove the enemy b e
e E e .fore him, d molishing a portion of the ighth Gr nadiers, who
. o formed to check him In a little while Pike ref rmed his line, A and moved on the outer line of works . heavy battery i n front
I n was carried at once . the meantime a British battery further P men back was giving some annoyance, and ike ordered his to lie down until a couple of light guns could be brought up to
’ . T was fe w s silence the enemy s fire his done in a moment , and
t e of everything was quiet, awai ing the surr nder the place . Pike had just aided in removing a wounded man , and was seated con
‘ was versing with a prisoner, when there a tremendous explosion ;
da . the light of y was shut out by a pall of smoke, and the air
n Th e a n e . seemed to rai missiles . British m gazine had bee fir d
n C . N Pike was crushed to the earth by a huge sto e ; his aid , apt ich
. was e olson , killed by his sid , and the forms of two hundred and thi rty - two dead and wounded men strewed the ground when the smoke had lifted .
214 PI KE F PI KE ’ E K O s P A . f athers, even now quiet old men, spending the evening of their
’ O . T 49 a f days at sage Mission hen came , the rush for C li orni a ; c - fire - fire amp answered to camp for a thousand miles, and with the moving throng came Mr . Pike and Mrs Pike and the chil
“ ” “ ” “ “ d T and ren , and Buck and Bright, and ige Golde n and you know the rest .
I cannot close without saying a word more about my hero .
Th e Hi s was a most heroi c soul . day before he sailed across
hi s Lake Ontario to meet his fate, he wrote to father
’ I em a k to- mo ow i n th e fl ee at Sacke s a o at th e ea b r rr t tt H rb r, h d of
c o ce oo s on a sec e e e o . S o l I b e th e a mo a h i tr p , r t xp diti n h u d h ppy rt l
es ne to th e sca e of war wo l ou n ot e o ce oh m a e ? d ti d turn l , u d y r j i , , y f th r
m n th e ca se f m Ma ea e b e o o s and s e o o co . y h v n pr piti u , il u y untry But if
’ I am es ne to al ma m a l b e ke o e s —to s ee i n th e a ms d ti d f l , y y f l li W lf l p r ” of victory .
A wh o h as i writer v sited that quiet spot on the lake shore,
n where so many years ago they laid him dow to sleep, describes the wooden monument erected to his memory and the memory of
wh o d n those died with him, as a worn, deface , shattered, broke
And h as a . n and forgotten thing yet he another monument,
b he e eternal monument, erected y t hand of God ; and may w
n e t n not hope that in our day, whe old stori s are being re old ; whe men are recalling the brave days of old ; when history is being written as it never was before, that the name of PIKE may emerge
s from the mi ts of forgetfulness, even as comes at sunrise from out the darkness, the brightness and the whiteness, the beauty and the glow of the Peak that bears his name .
218 THE WORLD A S H OL C O .
“ w L s hich has raged over the authorship of the etters of Juniu , might be put forward as the probable writer of that singular com “ ” endi um A F p of ignorance, What I know bout arming, instead of the late Horace Greeley .
n an While thus disclaiming any ecessity for apology, your
not ten orator will , however, avail himself of thousand time
“ t ft honored preceden s, and, a er first announcing that he is en ” irel e t y unpr pared to make a speech, proceed to demonstrate the truth of that preliminary remark to the absolute conviction of everybody ; but, avoiding educational bays and inlets which he has never navigated, will head out to the sea which no man owns ;
no n which has beate paths ; over which the man who sails, though
r - a it be for the thousandth time, still sails a discovere ten C C thousandth edition of hristopher olumbus ; and, instead of
’ ’ speaking of this man s books, and of that professor s school, he will speak of a book which no man wrote, and which is not yet
’ completed ; he will discourse of a University for which men s
e schools and coll ges and universities are, at the very best, but a slight preparation "and these thoughts and suggestions will be “ brought together under the general title of TH E WORLD A ” H OL SC O .
Possibly some may inquire by what process a speaker, con dl fesse y ignorant of many valuable things found in books, and
n i n deprived by chance, circumstances, and , in early life, wa t of cli nati on to acquire what is commonly called an education, has obtained the knowledge which he proposes to impart ; from what
- o f store h use, they may ask, does he propose to draw his acts and n ? Th e n i ferences reply is , that this qualificatio and these facts and applications are obtained through what is itself an educa THE WORLD A S CHOOL 21 . 9
ti onal s proces , although it is never mentioned in the educational
’ n l t jour a s , or discussed at the teachers ins itutes, or supervised by
e of E that oppressive myst ry, the Bureau ducation at Washington ; t A A and his sort of education is called in merica and by mericans, “ A ” Knocking bout .
h e and T course varies with every scholar, occupies various
A c a s periods of time . With most meri ans it l st from early man hood, sometimes from early boyhood , to the end of life . It is the
’ fate of very few to graduate early ; to find some sailor s snug
o harb r where they may ponder over what they learned , and be
Th e s f K knocked about no more . student o nock About Univer si ty cannot locate on the map the seat of th at institution ; it has
- no office . L special post address ike love, it is found in the camp , h h t e . T e court, the field and the grove student resides at no par ti cular - and e boarding house ; , as I have said befor , the course
r c n o va ies with each student, though the ourse is by no mea s p ti onal n es , since the student freque tly pursues branch which he o d es not fancy ; and, indeed , instances are of record where the course has suddenly ended at the branch of a tree . In the course of his studie s the student may be transported from the banks of
th e O . hio to those of the Sacramento, and thence to the James
He may b e transfe rred from the society of students of the Septua i n - He g t to that of the professors of the seven shooter . may b ecome in turn , or be all at once, a preacher, a newspaper corre s ondent He p , and a soldier . may be at the same time a member
’ e ff " of a pr sbytery and of a general s sta , and perform at once, and i n i ff H d erent ways, the functions of an embassador of eaven and
t r - n set of the Sani a y C ommission . To day he may be lear ing to t and to - - r ype, morrow building a church ; to day he may be fea 220 HE RLD H T WO A S C OOL.
t - lessly denouncing sin and wickedness, and day af er to morrow
- fighting a narrow gauge railroad . In none of these pursuits is he “ ” adhering to what I am informed is called a curriculum ; and i n the prosecution of these various labors he may not open a text
And th e book for weeks together . yet, he is all time acquiring knowledge which mortal man never yet extracted from between the covers of any book ever written by man . In these years his hands are hardening for the work they have yet to do ; his shoul d e rs are widening for the burden they have yet to bear ; his sinews are strengthening for the race he h as yet to run ; his heart is en largi ng for those he has yet to embrace in i ts sympathies ; and his
r n mind is acquiring that breadth and force, vigo and clear ess — which will at las t be required in the instruction of i t may be
ou di s " y , young la e and gentlemen It is hardly necessary for me to say that the rough sketch I have just drawn is not intended as
Far n the outline of an autobiography . less useful and brillia t
- An has been the career of your fellow student of the evening . d
i n yet it may be, that even in the experience of years spent the enforced wanderings of a common soldier ; of other years passed even in the humbler walks of a profession created within a cen
c e a e tury or two, spe ially to r cord d y by day the progr ss of this
e busy world ; of y ars filled in with a mass of reading, even though
s —i t careless and un ystematic may be that, in all these years, some knowledge which may be imparted to others has been acquired of
Shaks eare that world which p says is all a stage, but which , for
l c this evening, we wil onsider is all a school .
If there is any one thing that there has been a settled endeavor to impress upon the minds of the students of this Kansas State
A C i s gricultural ollege, it , that neither at this nor any other insti
222 THE WORLD A H S C OOL.
man a sick in his sleep, she cannot run into a friendly harbor ;
e off- her salvation d pends on her keeping shore . If the re are
c - a d defe ts in her construction , if she is ill m nne , or if her rigging
sh e c o is worn when leaves port, she ann t return to mend these
a defects . C our ge and skill on the part of the ofli cers must repair
a d mages and provide against calamity . But there is no going back . She is at sea .
And this it is that makes going out fro m an institution like
n this really goi g out into the world , because it marks the limit
- Th e between dependence and self help . student here obeys rules and regulations prescribed by others ; he reads books placed i n
s his hands by others ; he receive opinions, to some extent, because they are promulgated by authority " but when he steps out of
e He hi s these bounds, all this ceas s . is own man then . A F E renchman, relating an experience in ngland , and illustrating
“ s E s f the omnipre ence of the ngli h o ficers of the law, said " I was ” - And - d alone with God and a policeman . so the newly gra uated — is alone in the world with a diploma .
o That diploma is a good thing . Y ur speaker wishes he
e " n possess d one he would prize it, even though it were writte
e E B ut a ft r in newspap r nglish . f e all, the parchment only tells what has been done—and it does not always tell the whole truth
’ I n about that. a healthy soldier s discharge from the service are
o N e n the w rds, o objection to his being re nlisted is know to ex ” I n ist. imagine that sentence might be written with propriety o
o Th e an occasi nal diploma . graduate might go back and go
u c a thro gh the ourse again , without injury . But, admitting th t
e e the diploma has b en well and fairly earned, it is only an evidenc
—of of work worthily done, so far a good beginning. It is, at THE RLD H L 22 WO A S C OO . 3
the best, a certificate that John Smith or Jane Smith, as the case ma an n y be, has made a good start toward acquiring educatio , and r far is prepa ed, as as the institution conferring the diploma
r n can furnish a prepa atio , for entrance in that greater, higher
c . s hool , the World
nd A right here, over the question what sort of preparation
e e should be furnished, has b n fought the battle of the educators . o “ It is over this that the great educati onal gods have kept this
’ dreadful pothe r o er our heads it i s over this that i t has thun dered all around the sky ; it is over this that usually mild - man nered men have shot wrathful glances through their gold - bowed spectacles, while every fold of their white neckcloths swelled with
Th e e s indignation . r ult of the battle has been the establishment
two "one of varieties of colleges teaching the classics, and con
“ ’ ” “ ferring the information that Achilles wrath was to Greece ” s n n e e the direful pri g of woes u numb r d , and also furnishing the
‘ r o a e Z enO h n t uly gratifying inf rmation that M jor G neral p o , with te n me n h as c R c h i k thousand , fallen ba k from i hmond to the C c a
no w u e w hominy, and has the enemy j st wher he ants him ; and
c a s c the other variety tea hing the modern langu ge , natural s iences,
e a ma n ot agricultur and the tr des . Possibly this y be an exactly a a e a ccurate st t ment of the case, but it must be t ken as the account
e o s given by a passing r p rter who took no part in the row him elf.
e o s me n s a e But, s ri u ly, mu t t ke the world as th y find it, and what kind of a world doe s the graduate find wh e n he leaves the halls he h as pace d so long ? Is it like an old- fashioned colle ge ?
Th e sinking he art of many a young man as he has stood in the
e e s e e s - midst of the surging, car l s , s emingly s lfi h, rude, well nigh
er for m ciless crowd the first time, has told him that the world is 224 THE ORLD A S H O L W C O . n o green college campus ; that the men he must meet day i n and
- and o he hi s day out, with whom from wh m must earn daily bread, are not professors or students ; are not men of culture ; that they
e o G are not interest d in the w es of reece, but are vastly concern ed
e s about their own wo s, their own busine s and their own dinners.
Stand where meet the thronged ways in a great city, and notice
s s what men carry in their hand , under their arm , or in their
c breast po kets, and you will find out something about this world .
Here goes a painter with his bucket of white lead ; there goes a carpenter with his square ; h e re passes an I talian with a board on
o e - of- e an his head , c ver d with plaster Paris figur s ; here, one after
a c other, pass dozen clerks with pen ils over their ears , and bits of paper in their hands and pape rs sticking out of their pockets ; shop - boys pass repeatedly with bundles ; h e re walks a round shouldered chap with the end of his right thumb and finger dis
ofl —h e e s colored and worn a little is a print r, and takes a bras composing - rule out of his pocket and puts it back again ; men
s i o - a o s pass with hod , w th m rtar bo rds, with tr wels ; there may pa s
e e e onc in a while a young gentl man , a smil irradiating his class
e e — e ical f atur s that is a report r, going to congratulate with the coroner over an approaching inquest .
T e o his littl panorama sh ws how men live ; how you , my friend,
e . with the bright and shining diploma, must liv Suppose you
e u wish to find out what thes men know . Q ote, if you please,
H G e o ff something from omer, in the original r ek ; s mething a ect
’ ing ; the best thing there is in th e book about Achilles wrath and
e Tr o e - o man the wo s of Greece . y this on the m st intellig nt lo king
h a s K — w o p sse , and if he is a ansas man as he probably will be, — if he looks uncommonly intelligent h e will look at you in a
2 THE RLD A H L 2 6 WO S C OO .
a finally seed it down to marigolds ; and th t would be culture .
h e . A T result would be beautiful thing of beauty and a joy, till frost comes, would be that field of marigolds . What eye would “ n ot kindle when jocund day stood tiptoe on the misty mountain ” s o r i tops, pointing with ro y fingers to th se one hund ed and s xty
o e o ? man ad acres of glowing, g ld n marig lds But the owning the j oining quarter breaks up the prairie sod and puts the entire tract — that . Th e n ot i n onions and would be culture, too onion is an i t h aristocratic vegetable ; it s not admitted in o good society . W en the Opera house i s a blaze of light ; when the wealth of empires glitters in diamonds on necks of snow ; when the echoes of deli
th e - l ci ous music fill high hall, and the vast drop curtain as it fal s
s o trembles re p nsive to the applause that swells from parquet,
s a e boxe and g ll ries, no admirer ever throws at the feet of the
e child of g nius, the embodiment of beauty and melody, a dewy
- d es . An bouquet of fr h culled onions yet, to return to the kind of culture in the prairie, public sentiment, leaning over the rail
e - fence and commenting on the two quart r sections, goes with the raiser of onions ; appl auds the thoroughness of his culture ; re marks the admirable condition of the g round and the absence of weeds "and the man of oni onss goes down to h i s house justified
e a rather than the other . I conf ss that I am a partis n as between
I o . s o . marigold and oni ns am an ultra oni n man , myself
e s s o to a e e But, l aving thi discu si n, it is be t k n for grant d, stu
f Ka A c C o dents o the nsas State gri ultural llege, that you have made up your minds to cast in your lot with an institution which “ o u for " Go can say to you when y leave it the last time , my son ,
I e o " go, my daughter ; hav d ne all I could for you would that it
o were more . I do not send you f rth filled with dreams and THE ORLD A S CH O L 22 W O . 7
Th e visions . world is a working world, as I have told you often,
e and I have fitted you as best I could to b gin that work . You,
- my son , may not rise to what the world calls distinction . I t may ‘ t ’ no be yours, the applause of listening Senates to command, but you may, please God, live honestly and worthily, and eat the
e a And own . bread your hands have rned you, my daughter, go
’ n e o n —an he ce, fre d fr m woman s ba e and curse ignorant helpless
“ n o ess ; you g with skillful, trained fingers, and an honest heart, ” o c u into a w rld that has need of you and su h as yo . Graduated from this school an d entered upon that other
wh o e e c ? T school, the World, , what, wh r , are the tea hers hey
e l man n are around, above, ben ath you ; they are yourse f, and a
He wh o a le t th ture . hath ears to he r, him hear in the world e
“ Let myriad VOl ceS that speak to him . him find the tongue s i n ” th e t e , re s, the books in running brooks good in everything, of
haks e are whi ch the self taught S p wrote . But time passes ; we
the cannot call the roll of the faculty of the University of World, and so I make a few suggestions addressed more particularly to
s wh o th e graduating cla s, and those are soon to follow them . “ s I - There is a phra e, believe it is called a slang phrase though
S whose function it is to say what is lang and what is not, I do not — "“ ” know but the phrase runs this way Be good to yourself. It — ’ o to selfish ness men It is not an exhortati n don t need that .
c means respect yourself, take are of and do not squander yourself.
are e You will find that if you not good to yourself, no one els will
n f r e to . a on o be good you You owe no apology to y e being h re . You have as good a natural ri ght to a front seat as any boy or
’ h to S girl w o goes the World s chool . P b This institution, I am informed by the resident and mem ers 228 THE WORLD A S H C OOL.
F not i of the aculty, is ntended for the exclusive production of
n of Preside ts the United States, nor does it guarantee to its grad uates situations in the United States Senate ; but it is well enough for young gentlemen to remember that genuine distinction is to be l attained in the ine of agriculture and the mechanic arts . As an
of t illustration of the dignity agricultural pursui s, you often hear “ h e wh o the quotation, that makes two blades of grass grow where
o o . Th e one grew bef re, is a public benefact r whole paragraph, ’ T which may be found in Gulliver s ravels, is still more striking . “ " And O It reads he gave it for his pinion, that whosoever Could make two ears of corn or two blades of grass to grow upon a spot
o of ground where only one grew before, w uld deserve better of
e s mankind , and do more ess ntial ervice to his country, than the ” e whole race of politicians put tog ther .
a You see, then, that the r ising of two blades of grass will make
a e you of more value th n the whol race of politicians ; and, in my
Opinion, if you raise but one blade the result will still be the
c same . But, indeed, in the field of agri ultural discovery there
o Th e still seems to be boundless r om . books say that neither
e n Indian corn , potato s, squashes, carrots nor cabbages were know
E e in ngland until after the sixte nth century . Who knows how many new vegetables are yet to be invented or improved ? Fame
for may have something in store you in that line . Your name
c e ld may yet be arved on the perfect waterm lon of the future . O men can remember the advent of nearly e very improved agri cul tural implement which we now consider indispensable . It is the happy combination of farmer and me chanic wh o is yet to achieve T triumphs in the field of agricultural invention . hen , there is the great vocation of teaching agriculture and the mechanic arts,
230 THE WORLD A S H O L C O .
1776 n a o , just one hu dred years g , and it is still quoted by the
t e la est writers on Ireland . Young wrot , not only what he knew
- . Th e e i himself, but what others found out cattl breed ng experi
R l wh o was e ments of obert Bakewel , not himself a writ r, were described and commended by Young . Who of the graduates of ‘ our A t this institution will be rthur Young, o write agricultural
a and books to be re d a hundred years hence, have it said of him ,
He will be illustrious in all succeeding days, as long as the profit of the earth is for all, and the king himself is served by the field ” ?
To wh o un those propose to follow the mechanic arts , it is necessary to say that it is the skillful mechanic rather than the
h e e T soldier w o now goes wh r glory waits him . his is the me
’ h ani s a He e c c e . w g is the reigning monarch now, and all take
ff He o our hats to him . is the Prospero of this our island , and
hi s steam is th e monster C aliban that does bidding . I doubt if there is a man before me who would not rather wear the laurels
C E e St. L of apt . ads , the d signer of that wonderful bridge at ouis, St than to be President of the United ates .
’ th e o S o s You enter W rld s ch ol , then , under favorable au pices, and it re mains only that you improve your opportunities ; and le t me say that you cannot always tell from appearances wh o is
’ Th e s capable of instructing you. teachers of the World School
For a e " o e are not always in uniform . inst nc y ur orator und rtook,
da ai r th e a e a e one y, to nautic l knowl dge he had obt in d by a
’ F C o s wh o study of Mr . ennimore ooper s sail r , are only equaled
I e in naturalness by his ndians, and, in about five s conds, had his ignorance set in order before his face by the gentle man he was
c wh o kindly endeavoring to instru t . But would have thought 231 THE WORLD A S CH OOL.
f t that the quiet gentleman in a frock coat, writing in an o fice, wi h ? S a pencil over his ear, had really followed the sea for years uch,
h fin d t e . however, happened to be exact situation You will that
- men t n rough looking men , illiterate , in fact, are of en exceedi gly
ou well posted on some one or two things . If you ignore such y
An d ou " and will lose something . this y will discover that men women with naturally good minds, but who, from ignorance of
an writing, are unable to keep a diary, journal or memoranda of y w h kind, have frequently a very tenacious memory of matters hic
Th e d have come under their personal observation . true metho
wh o of investigation is that pursued by the newspaper reporter,
th e a forms no theory in advance, but, on his arrival at scene of
' of t fire or a fight, takes the statements all within reach , withou ” n e I n th regard to age, sex, or previous conditio of servitud . e ’ S World s chool, unless you are willing to accept all available
r n e information f om all possible sources, you will ev r be a good scholar .
T n here is a maxim, often quoted in connection with educatio , " “ ” l viz . that half a loaf is better than no bread ; but I may a so be allowed to remark that one blade of a pair of scissors is pre
i ous in c little better than no scissors at all, and so it is not well this world to devote a year of precious time to a study which can n b i T n ot e n . mastered twenty years ake, for instance , pho ography,
- A e e one of the many systems of short hand . knowl dg of this art by which I mean the art of verbatim reporting and nothing
— not n else while doubtless a good thing to have, is a prime eces
si t h e y to one man or woman in ten thousand . T mass of reporters
and o o m writers for the press get al ng with ut it, and any of the
wh o e best reporters have ev r lived were unacquainted with it . 232 THE ORLD A W S CHOOL.
Yet how many thousands of people, who really had no occasion to study it, have wasted time and money in the attempted acqui H si ti on . ow many thousands, deceived by the ease with which
e the theory of phonography is understood, have gon far enough to discover that they could not get practice enough in all the leisure hours of Me th usaleh to make them good short- hand re
A e - porters . pil of double ruled paper as large as this room could
- be constructed of the note books of people who, after months of
o e practice, have f und th y could not report even the slowest ser mon o , and on trying it f und themselves struggling with the pot “ ” e e hooks which r pr sent My beloved brethren and sisters, when “A ” they should have been making a crooked mark for men . These people have simply tried to make a century plant bloom
’ at two years old, that s all . Had they been wise they would have devoted their two years to something that can be learned reason
— —i n t o N ably well well enough to be used w years . ewspaper
a ma h h men, who re lly y be supposed to need p onograp y, as I have T said, get along without it . hey find it easier, in many instances, to sit comfortable while the entirely original , unpremeditated and o impromptu discourse is being delivered, and then , appr aching
a on u him the spe ker after he has c cl ded his remarks, hear say,
“ re Why, my dear sir, I was not expecting to have my hasty marks appear in print, but if it would be an accommodation to — you , I can let you have the heads of my address just a synopsis, ” - you know . Whereupon he proceeds to draw from his right hand
- coat tail pocket th e complete manuscript . Th e remarks made on th e subject of phonography apply also to ineffe ctual or insufficient efforts to acquire a knowledge of the
I n violin, and especially the flute . regard to the latter instrument
234 THE RLD A H WO S C OOL.
? ” wasted years . What shall it profit a man is, after all, the
a question . What does it profit a man to h ndle over a large num
’ r h e ber of skulls, and shout with raptu e when finds a monkey s
? He skull which resembles his own cannot know, after all, that
as Th that particular monkey w his relative . e glow of family pride which comes over hi mat first is soon dampened by the dreary reflection that there may be a mistake somewhere ; that
’ the depression in the monkey s forehead which gives it its start
a own n ling resembl nce to his may be exceptio al, may have been the result of accident in youth, a blow from a cocoanut in the
n hands of an irate pare t, or something of the kind .
Th e a s of o lea to th e a e ” p th gl ry d but gr v ,
“ ” And the paths of this sort of scientific investigation lead us into
e r the maz s of painful uncertainty . Ou ancestral gorilla eludes
- An d our grasp like the air drawn dagger of Macbeth . if he did not a ? I s , wh t then there any present or practical good to be
hi s t n attained by dwelling on meri s or demerits, or in tracing pai
e m to — fully the line which l ads fro us him realizing, perhaps, that of late years the family has d egenerated ?
“ B ut e i c m somebody, not a sci nt st, may ask , Do you de lai ” against all investigation of the myste rie s of Nature ? C ertainly
He . a e h o w . not . C onsider the gr sshopp r, he grows is a mystery
. F Whence he cometh and whither he goeth, we cannot tell ind
c c i out, if you can, why a miserable inse t whi h a ch ld can crush
e S a all ben ath its foot ravages whole t tes, while man , with his " s e . s boasted resource , se ms powerless to resist him My teries
e a . secrets "if you would inv stig te them, the world is full of them
n a e Th e forces of ture, lectricity and the rest, have existed from HE RLD A H O L 2 T WO S C O . 35
the beginning, but how long has man known of their power ? how much does he know now ? Th e lightning flashed before the
A e blinde d eyes of dam , but how long since the lectric spark became not th e terror but the friend of man ? Steam curled up
e T C n smce from the k ttle of ubal ain, but how lo g man knew how strong were the shoulders of the prisoned vapor which now bears so many burdens ? C harcoal lay in the ashes of the first fire kindled by man on the earth ; nitre formed on the walls of the " cave, and sulphur lurked in the earth but how long since man
n s a t knew that these substa ces, harmle s part, were, linked toge her, a black conspirator who without warning can tear a city or a mountain to fragments ? No man can say that further investiga
li n es How tion on these will reveal nothing . long is it since
be th e u gunpowder, supposed to most powerf l of all explosive
’ s n was to - sub ta ces, found be to nitro glycerine what a boy s
’ strength is to a man s Investigation "there is room for enough
n of that to fill the next thousand years, during which the questio
- ff s of our primitive gorilla hood can be su ered to re t .
’ Sc c hi n In the World s hool , as in the distri t school, a great dran e too c to study is much whispering, too much noise, too
Th e s - much talk . pre ent age demands and admires action not
e a words . Said an intelligent gentleman , sp king the other even ing of the British House of C ommons "“A great orator is a great ” I e i n nuisance and a great bore . It will, think, be so consid red
n this country some day . It is certainly a consummatio devoutly
If or e to be wished . any of these young ladies gentlem n have a
a e can habit of keeping still until they h v something to say, they rest easy i n the belief that the world is coming round to their 236 THE ORLD A S H L W C OO . m e t fashion . I think ev n now if De os henes were living, and were
hi s to repeat experiment of the pebbles, he would meet with little
. At I s sympathy this time, and may remark, in thi State, where — we are so little advanced in the practiceof Agriculture the old — est of human vocations that the failure of a single crop reduces us to the condition of Indians when the buffalo fails to put in an “ ” for appearance, and a piteous cry aid goes up from one end of — the State to the other i n such a State there is little time for
- Th e speech making . world needs, nay more, will have, men of
s t action , not of mere word , ei her spoken or printed . A volume of speeches is not a very enduring monument, generally a fading
n and perishable one ; a fine bridge, a oble aqueduct, a row of ten emen t e hous s, built by generosity, not avarice, a beautiful farm
— e house such are the monuments men should l ave behind them .
’ It is the impatience of the world with talk that leads to C arlyle s H ” ero Worship, and such grim books as his C romwell and
Frederick ; and wh o that reads these books does not imbibe a
for ac o am feeling of respect men of ti n, rather than the men of p
h lets c ? p , spee hes and proclamations Who , whatever may be his
as N i n idea of the career, a whole, of the first apoleon, does not,
’ “ reading that last chapte r save one in C arlyle s French Re volu ” f tion, stand an admirer of that young artillery o ficer, Bonaparte
’ by name, as he stands amid his guns at four o clock in the after
n of noo that October day, waiting the approach of that bloody “ ” mob of Paris who succee ded as rulers those great lords whom
Arthur Young hate d They are moving forty thousand strong ; their stray shot rattle on the staircase of the T uileries ; they are
‘ ’ ofli er F " very near . Whereupon , thou bronze artillery c ire
238 THE ORLD A HO W S C OL.
a more, you have an angelic warrant ; for wh t says Thackeray i n “ the End of the Play "
“ e eman or old or o A g ntl , y ung " ea k w m m e a s ( B r indly ith y hu bl l y , ) Th e sacred chorus first was sung on th e s of s mas a s Up fir t Chri t d y . Th e s e e s ea o e ea h ph rd h rd it v rh d , Th e j oyful an gels raised it then ; o to ea e on sa Gl ry H v n high , it id , ” And eace on ea to e e me n p rth g ntl .
not ft But I must keep you here listening to words which, a er
not be i n all, may worth your remembrance, and which, the hurly
o n b f burly of that world which so n , very soo , will open up e ore the
e a e and young st here, you will sc rcely find time to r member ; yet
e t n the blessing and ben dic ion of any human being, eve that of the sightless beggar by the wayside, is worth the having .
Young men , youngwomen , crowding forward from the byways into the broad highway of life, may you do well the work that is
a L r waiting for your hands, realizing the oblig tion spoken of by o d “ Bacon " I hold every man a debtor to hi s profession ; from th e
u n which as men of co rse do seek to receive countena ce and profit, so ought they of duty to endeavor themselves by way of amends ” h fe n t to be a help and ornament t e u o .
’ ese e n ot May your lives r mbl the desert s bitter stream, which
k e a moc s the cracked and blister d lips of the f inting, dying trav
o s eler ; which but adds horr r to the fiery desert, and sinks at la t
a s w no into the burning s nd , to hich it brought no verdure, glad — ness from which it re ceived nothing but poison and a grave .
May the course of your lives find no counte rpart in the sluggish
th e e s course of dull bayou, a fungus among str am , which winds and
a a u s h doubles and winds g in thro gh mile of rank vegetation, whic RLD A H L 239 THE WO S C OO .
i ts curtain its dark course, and shut out from sullen waters the
s s gladsome light of day ; a waveles , tidele s stream, in which rep
c ti les of hideous shape crawl and glide and swim, and whi h at night seems to lie still in the darkness and listen to doleful and
e mysterious voices . May none of you ev r live isolated from your
n o - n ki d, like those lakes which lurk amid dark, nce volcanic mou
n - d tai s, with no visible inlet or outlet ; deep, self containe , solitary, giving back no reflection save the dim images of scorched and
n e s barre rocks, and splintered p aks ; lake on which nothing lives
o n s or floats, which hide forever in their dark b soms everythi g ca t into them . But may your lives be like the river which rises amid the pure n of ai n s ff s ows the bold mount n ; which, hurli g it elf over the cli s,
’ n s i ts a swers back the wild, free eagle s scream ; which force way through the rocks that would impede i t i n its search for the val
s as the a as ley ; which slake it goes the thirst of deer, nd w hes the roots of the pine tree from which the flag of the far- sailing mer ch antmen is yet to fly ; which turns the rude wheel of the moun
n l i i ts e s tai mil , and wh rls in ddie the gathering sawdust as it
s e e i t h as speed from und r the whirring, glittering t eth of steel
n h as and bidden to re d the logs it brought them . It grows wider
n deeper, and more silent and yet stronger, as it flows betwee smil ing farms and thrifty villages which owe their existence to the
At i ts bounteous river . night it sends mist over all the valley
- C wh o and half way up the hills, like sweet harity, silently wraps
n i her sheltering mantle all the sons of men . It carries on i ts
t — - n ft bosom all floating craf the light canoe, the slowly drifti g ra ,
- n the arrow like steamer . In time, its wavelets give back at ight, i n dancing gleams, the thousand lights of the great cotton mill, 240 THE ORLD A S HOOL W C .
and n n r newe b ui lt , a o , its waters part befo e the prow of the ship, as she glides down the ways to the element which is henceforth to
T e - u be her home . hus goes the shining riv r, the ever usef l, ever blessed river ; best friend of toiling man ; fairest thing fromthe
God - s creative hand of ; thus goes the river, to mingle at la t for
- ever with the sun lit sea .
K A N S A S
EDU C ATI O NAL PU B LI C ATI O N S
E L B y s . A . F T E R , A . M .
FELTE ’ S LLUST ATED TAB LE B R I R OOK .
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FELTE ’ S P MA Y A THME R RI R RI TIC .
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FELTE ’ S N EW NTE MED ATE A TH ME R I R I RI TIC .
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FELTER’ S ADVAN C ED A THME RI TIC .
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’ FELTE S ELEMENTS OF B OO - EEPIN R K K G .
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FELTE ’ S EC ONOM C PENC L B L R I I AN KS .
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EL E ’ S AC C OU T B F T R N OOKS .
Sam e se t b ma ce n s pl , y il , 35 t .
’ AB LETS FELTER S T .
l ne ar s ma 1 ce n s En a e co es for raw n am e co es w c . S p pi , ith li d , by il , 5 t gr v d pi , d i g
and wr n 2 n m e rs 2 ce n s . iti g ( 4 u b ) , 5 t
N Y S fo r s c o o use 2 co e s ma os a 2 ce n s COU T MAP , h l ( 5 pi ) , by il , p tp id, 5 t O LE E S E 1 x22 nc e s co ore co n es i s e A C MP T TAT MAP ( i h ) , l d by u ti , publ h d m 0 n e s e c a for sc oo s a os t ai 1 ce s . p i lly h l , by il , p p t r w o e sa e or n o c or ra e s o f th e a o e ca ons a ess Fo h l l i tr du t y t b v publi ti , ddr H P L Y A G E N Y W E S TE R N S C O O L S U P C ,
an s a s P b li s h i n Ho u s e To e k a ans a s . K u g , p , K