THE OTHER CAPE Head to the — ’s largest province — and discover the Green Kalahari, from the desert terrain of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, to the fertile valleys of the and Augrabies Falls National Park

FABIAN VAN POSER VAN FABIAN IMAGES: WORDS: Meera Dattani

112 National Geographic Traveller | June 2014 natgeotraveller.co.uk | National Geographic Traveller 113 SOUTH AFRICA SOUTH AFRICA

NO NOISE, BARELY A BREEZE AND THE HEAT OF THE DAY AT ITS PEAK. AHEAD, MILES OF CRATER-LIKE CRACKED EARTH AND AROUND US, ROCKY HILLS, OR KOPPIES. IT’S JUST ME, MY ROAD TRIP COMPANION AND OUR NOT-QUITE-ALL-TERRAIN CAR, ALL PAUSING FOR BREATH AT THE GATE OF AN ENORMOUS SALTPAN.

Those six miles of uninterrupted terrain provide one of in May 2000 also recognised something else: that the most exhilarating — and shortest — drives of my life, ecosystems are not governed by political boundaries. Its speeding across this unreal landscape. However, we weren’t size, at roughly 8.65 million acres, makes it about twice alone. At the other end, a group of camels stood with their the size of Kruger. heads held high, almost disdainfully, before shuffling off, Those creatures that survive here are hardy. The dry aggrieved at this disruption to their afternoon lurking. riverbeds of the Auob and Nossob Rivers run through the These few minutes sum up the Northern Cape. Vast, reserve, a meeting spot for springbok, gemsbok (oryx), eland, crowd-free, beautiful, surprising. It’s South Africa’s largest wildebeest and ostriches. Lucky visitors may see the black- province, covering a third of the country, and also the most maned Kalahari lions, cheetah and even leopard. By night, sparsely populated, one of the least visited, and yet one of the the Cape fox, African wild cat and spring hare, also called the most rewarding. Kalahari kangaroo, are frequently sighted. It’s the northern section between Namibia and Botswana, known as the Green Kalahari, which lures me here, to THROUGH THE BUSHVELD experience the contrast between the desert terrain of Driving through the park is easy, with viewpoints and Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park and the fertile valleys of the watering holes clearly marked as you weave in and out of Orange River and Augrabies Falls National Park. Botswanan territory. Our destination is the unfenced !Xaus An explorer’s dream, I’ll discover endless stretches of road Lodge, on the edge of the reserve. We park up our own car where rush hour consists of two cars passing by. Rock rabbits (no match for the road ahead) and embark on a 45-minute darting in and out of the bush, grassy red sand dunes rolling dune 4WD safari at breakneck speed to reach this remote on for miles and signs proclaiming, ‘Red Meat Country. Try community lodge. ‘Xaus’ means ‘heart’ and the land it It. Love It.’ Driving doesn’t get better than this. By night, occupies is known as !Ae!Hai Kalarahi Heritage Park, shared the oversized sky transforms into an open-air planetarium by Mier and San communities. Consisting of 12 chalets, a — almost zero light pollution giving even the oldest stars a plunge pool and restaurant deck overlooking a huge saltpan, chance to shine. In the southern Kalahari, the Orange River it offers rustic, rather than opulent, luxury. In the distance, creates a surprisingly verdant landscape, where grape farms three ostriches settle on the pan for the afternoon, while thrive and quiver trees stand silhouetted on rocky hillsides. on our private deck other creatures also decide to make This is also the land where San hunter-gatherers and themselves at home. Khoi herders once roamed, their heritage rocked by both “Just corn crickets, totally harmless,” reassures Richard, early white settlers and apartheid dispersing communities the lodge manager. “They love the heat.” Harmless they and taking over land. In the 18th century, a permit could be may be, but they look indestructible. After two days of sought to hunt them, as they were classified ‘vermin’. Now, observation, it’s also unclear what they eat, or what, if many lost traditions are being revived, slowly, by themselves anything, eats them. through tourism, and also as a way to combat poverty and its A morning wilderness walk through the bushveld attendant problems. introduces us to the Kalahari’s plants. Kalai, one of the One initiative to encourage exploration of this heritage younger generation involved in relearning ancestral is the Red Dune Route. It’s more than just a marketing tag, bushman skills, shows us shrubs used for everything from guiding you from the region’s main hub, , which is appetite suppressants to earache cures, and the tsamma around 450 miles west of Johannesburg, northwards towards melon, a flavourless watermelon loved by antelope for its Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Kgalagadi, which means ‘land hydrating qualities. We see the shade-giving shepherd’s trees, of thirst’, is Africa’s first official transfrontier park, partly camelthorn trees and gravity-defying 550lb sociable weaver in Botswana, partly in South Africa (formerly Kalahari nests, built precariously on branches, while above us, raptors Gemsbok National Park and Gemsbok National Park, soar high in search of breakfast. respectively). The park is now managed as a single entity, with no visa required at its sole entrance/exit. Jointly run by local the Mier and San communities along Previous pages: Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park; Kalahari lion. with South Africa National Parks as a way of addressing Clockwise from top left: 4WD safari, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park;

land lost by locals during apartheid, the boundary change bushman crafts; mongoose, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park ARN NATALIE MULLER; ARNE POSER; VAN FABIAN IMAGES:

114 National Geographic Traveller | June 2014 natgeotraveller.co.uk | National Geographic Traveller 115 SOUTH AFRICA SOUTH 116 TRAIL, SHE UNPICKS UNPICKS SHE TRAIL, ART (THE SWIRLING SWIRLING (THE ART KALAHARI NATURE BLADE OF GRASS IN IN OF GRASS BLADE National Geographic Traveller Traveller Geographic National GIANT MILLIPEDE MILLIPEDE GIANT PATTERNS IN THE PATTERNS THE IN ACTION OR DUNE ACTION OR DUNE SAND MADE BY A MADE SAND ON PROFESSOR PROFESSOR ON EVENTS, BE IT BE IT EVENTS, LAST NIGHT’S NIGHT’S LAST ANNE ROSA’SANNE From the vantage point of Tierberg hill in the town of , Keimoes, of town the in hill Tierberg of point vantage the From see. to easier region once-tricky this making Route, Wine and Food Kokerboom the is Augrabies, and Upington between Here, water. it notfor this were notexist might around, miles hub for main the Upington, route. en life of pockets creates it Kalahari, southern the of semi-desert the through Flowing thirstland’. African Southern the to or gift ‘God’s Gariep, Great the called once River, Orange for the south head and dunes red the leave Tented we and Camp, Info Kalahari owned community- Mier the at near border Namibian the to close camping spent night here, final our After Mouton. Naas and Alida by owned Farm, Guest Rooiduin of garden theback in the dunes on sandsurfing of afternoon an modest: more are here ambitions speed land Our car. 1,000mph world’s the first with record speed world land the break to attempt aBritish Project, Bloodhound for the site It’s the dream. — apetrolhead’s border Namibian the to close Pan, Hakskeen there’s another, salt, for desert mined are spectacle. nightly its start to sky for the wait and sunset the watch sip Champagne, to later we’re where chairs, camping two are distance the In moon. the resembles braai up us. Prof,”he tells the from much everything pretty learnt “I’ve Andre. protégé and her assistant to on her knowledge passing also is Rosa farm. acattle once was what of —part acres her 8,640 with she’s what achieved precisely is which nature’, to it back give and thoughtlessness human by ruined desert of apiece ‘own to always was her ambition Kalahari, the with now smitten and Welsh-born Trails. Nature Kalahari Rosa’s Anne one Professor of is Ahighlight stations. petrol two, yes two, —and Tbuses for Diamond stop bus a former in Shop — located Gift and TCoffee Diamond supermarket, a with acity, avirtually is but Askham town, no major interpretations. bushmen and constellations the of readings ancient relates Richard while atelescope through moons and Jupiter’s rings admire to turns it in take we star-gazing, of evening Way. an Milky the During across scattered glitter like bejewelled, looks sky night the while jackals, and aardwolfs to hares spring and foxes bat-eared from everything The idea that the Kalahari is just desert is quickly quashed. quashed. quickly is desert just is Kalahari the that idea The some While landscape. this of characteristic are Saltpans There’s park. the beyond well extends Kalahari The up serve drives Evening world. it’s another night, By THE WIND THE (barbecue) with sizzling steaks, all on terrain that that on terrain all steaks, sizzling with (barbecue) | June 2014| June linen, Champagne on ice, afired- on ice, Champagne linen, white for two, set Atable it’s real. but amirage like looks ahead lies What saltpan. anearby Koopan, to bakkie its of We back the onto jump Lodge. Molopo Kalahari nearby at dinner be out to It turns close. comes but something top to impossible us. up with catching before (insects) for breakfast digging occasionally us, follow meerkats once-abandoned, adopted, her for me, afirst, In wind). the in caught grass of ablade by made sand the in patterns (the swirling art or dune action millipede giant it be events, night’s last unpicks Prof —the Newspaper’ Dune the ‘reading she calls — which walk nature now-famous Walking with meerkats seems seems meerkats with Walking Rosa’s during morning, the In (pick-up truck) and head out head (pick-up and truck)

From left: Roadside food. produced locally quality, is well it does but what gastronomy, on global car. the into way their worked have to seem bottles several and tasty particularly are here wines Pinotage The Estate. &Brandy Wine Bezalel family-owned the include ones smaller while river, the along vineyards of miles 135sq farm who farmer-shareholders 900 about comprising world, the in vineyards largest one the of is Cellars River Orange for wine. course, of —and, raisins as and fresh — both eat to grapes grow vineyards The Kalahari.” southern and valley River Orange the in are vineyards Africa’s South 10% —and of grapes of 140,000 “We tons produce says, Route, Wine and Food Kokerboom the of a co-founder colours. up the breaking tree alone quiver just with sunset; electrifying an at marvelled we appearance, daily their made braai the on lunch cooking walking, for dune camp aday as operates that land of piece acommunity-owned Trust, Blocuso is away miles Afew Elmarie. says there’s asurprise,” dinner, “Before and an al fresco table where guests wine and dine together. together. dine and wine guests where table fresco al an and (we’re Cabernet) Ruby in varieties grape after named suites six my with home’. home, It’s ‘sharing impressive an itof as think to prefers She Theuns. husband, her photographer with House Guest Vineyard African runs de Bruin Elmarie where and island inland inhabited largest Africa’s it’s South fact, In island. one such is Kanoneiland region. this to is, and was, water how important highlight Keimoes, one in the like wheels, water historic and inhabitable, these of many make tunnels flourish. agriculture other and vineyards where bank, the along agreenbelt created has river how the it’s clear pink as anything. Its quirky decor includes old car bonnets bonnets old car includes decor quirky Its anything. as pink as is name, its to true which, Padstal, Pienk Die is favourite A bread. homemade and preserves biscuits, baked freshly ON THE VINE THE ON Northern Cape cuisine may not yet have made its mark mark its made have notyet may cuisine Cape Northern Compion, Maxi wine. does also region this aside, G&Ts Keimoes is actually made up of about 120 islands. Water islands. 120 up about of made actually is Keimoes Steenbok, Transfrontier Kgalagadi Park; !Xaus Lodge and watching the sun go down. As the G&Ts G&Ts the As down. go sun the watching and padstals (farm stalls) sell honey, sell stalls) (farm

IMAGES: MEERA DATTANI; ARNE MULLER natgeotraveller.co.uk |natgeotraveller.co.uk National Geographic Traveller 117 Traveller Geographic National SOUTH AFRICA SOUTH IMAGE: THEUNS DE BRUIN least, and a lot of fun. A spin causes us to paddle in reverse and and reverse in paddle to us causes Aspin alot fun. of and least, the say to It’s bracing, rafts. inflatable two-person our in rapids 3 Grade through way our negotiating before bearings our get we up paddles, Picking lesson. asafety and jackets life helmets, area’s longest-running adventure companies, reassures us with the oneof Outventures, Kalahari of Craig, me. like a first-timer for especially prospect, adaunting this makes Falls Augrabies viewpoints. waterfall several joining aboardwalk and trails walking restaurant, agreat chalets, with game, its of top the at is accommodation park’s national The trees. quiver the among graze which wildebeest, and hartebeest as well as eland, to klipspringer from antelope, of manner all home to is landscape moon-like mesmerising a around all and gorge, 11-mile-long an into gush Falls Augrabies flow,the 184ft-high maximum its at is River Orange the When here. card trump the is Park National Falls Augrabies 123,552-acre the Route, Dune Red well. down but it goes up for debate, That’s wine. than pairing abetter is beer He believes Manchego. of version his particular in exquisite, are cheeses homemade Tian’s dinners. private as well as tastings cheese he hosts where Kaasmakery, Vrouenspan farmhouse, small Visser’s Tiaan is point high the although Park, National Falls Augrabies of the aftermath. and photographs floods, 1988 and region’s 1977 the from levels water the showing markers, flood as well as plates number and Whitewater rafting is popular here, although one glimpse of of one glimpse although here, popular is rafting Whitewater for the holy grail the is Park Transfrontier Kgalagadi If to Keimoes from journey on the It’s stop awelcome Above: corner of the Cape. Cape. the of corner unfamiliar this to head and route scenic Take the advice? My Falls. Augrabies around terrain lunar the and saltpans empty the dunes, red grassy Kalahari’s the about I think river, the along bob we As province. vast this of section small hour. cocktail of clinking the and pop ’80s soundtrack of birdsong, a to River, Orange the along sail for asunset evenings most departs Sakkie’s Adventures that by run boat a cruise the board we as evening early by it’s cooler Thankfully, shade. the in 38C though: desert, the It’s hot as as people. few and spaces wide-open of weeks two like a metropolis after rapid. next the before breath our catch to time have and water, the across swoop herons giant watch and back sit we stretches, gentle the more On briefly. water, the into slips my companion We’ve covered over 930 miles, exploring a relatively arelatively exploring miles, 930 over We’ve covered feels mall, new its with town, small this Upington, in Back Kanoneiland Sakkie se Arkie se Sakkie

, natgeotraveller.co.uk |natgeotraveller.co.uk 11-MILE-LONG GORGE 11-MILE-LONG 184FT-HIGH AUGRABIES FALLS GUSH INTO AN AN FALLS GUSH INTO MAXIMUM FLOW, THE AT IS ITS RIVER ORANGE THE WHEN National Geographic Traveller 119 Traveller Geographic National

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ESSENTIALS South Africa

GETTING THERE Currency: Rand (ZAR). £1 = ZAR18. MORE INFO British Airways and South African International dial code: 00 27. experiencenortherncape.com Airways fly daily between Heathrow and Time: GMT +2. The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho Johannesburg. SA Airlink/South African & Swaziland. RRP: £9.99. Airways flies daily between Johannesburg PLACES MENTIONED and Upington. ba.com flysaa.com Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. HOW TO DO IT Average flight time: 11h. sanparks.co.za/parks/kgalagadi Aardvark Safaris offers a 12-day trip, !Xaus Lodge. including two nights in the Green GETTING AROUND xauslodge.co.za Kalahari, three nights on the Kokerboom This region is best explored by car as Kalahari Nature Trails. Food and Wine Route, three nights on the public transport and taxis are limited. Buy kalahari-trails.co.za Red Dune Route and three nights at !Xaus a local SIM card and good maps. Always Molopo Kalahari Lodge. Lodge, from £2,695 per person, including carry water and keep petrol topped up. molopolodge.co.za flights, car hire, accommodation and most Diamond T Coffee and Gift Shop. meals. aardvarksafaris.co.uk WHEN TO GO facebook.com/pages/Diamond-T-Coffee- For DIY itineraries contact: Temperatures are most comfortable in and-Gift-Shop/195289620584390 Kalahari Red Dune Route. March-April (25C), with December- Kalahari Info and Tented Camp. E: [email protected]. February often stiflingly hot. The winter miertourism.co.za openafrica.org/route/Kalahari-Red- months of August and September (around Kokerboom Food & Wine Route. Dune-Route 20C) are popular for combining the Blocuso Trust. openafrica.org/ Kokerboom Food and Wine Route. Kalahari with western Namaqualand’s participant/Blocuso-Trust-Daycamping E: [email protected]. desert flower season. Augrabies Falls National Park. openafrica.org/route/Kokerboom-Food- sanparks.org.za/parks/augrabies and-Wine-Route PATRICK O’LEARY PATRICK NEED TO KNOW Kalahari Outventures. Visas: None required. kalahari-adventures.co.za ILLUSTRATION: ILLUSTRATION:

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