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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 369 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Martin, Klaas Flechsig, Larissa Chu, Leigh Dehaney, OUR READERS Leonie Gavalas, Lianne Bosch, Lisandra Ilisei, Luis Many thanks to the travellers who used the last Maia, Luzius Thuerlimann, Maarten Jan Oskam, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Maksymilian Dzwonek, Manfred Henze, Marc Verkerk, advice and interesting anecdotes: Adriaan van Dijk, Marcel Althaus, Marei Bauer, Marianne Schoone, Adrian Ineichen, Adrien Bitton, Adrien Ledeul, Agapi Mario Sergio Dd Oliveira Pinto, Marjolijn Polman, Galenianou, Alan & Lynn Taylor, Alan Keltner, Alberto Martin Hausmann, Mary Gavan, Mehmet Gavremo- Ibanez, Alexis Haneke, Alfred Schupp, Amanda glu, Michael Chow, Mike van kruchten, Mina Rahimi, Löwenberg, Amir Qaredaghi, Ana Hocevar, Ana Mirka Badinska, Mohammad Afshinfar, Mohammad Louro, Andrew Coker, Andrew Rerttman, Angus Lee, Ebrahimi, Mohsen Rezaie-Atagholipour, Momo Ankur Agarwal, Anna Zavyalova, Anne Ataii, Anton Nedderwedder, Monica Coppi, Monica Santosuosso, Kerst, Arlo Werhoven, Arne Gerberding, Aurélien Monika Marek, Nga Bellis, Nicholas James, Nick Grollemund, Bas Geelen, Basia Jóźwiak, Bastiaan Lubout, Olav Wissink , Oleg Zhernovoy, Olivia-Petra Bijl, Basudeb Banerjee, Behnaz Shaabani, Bojan Coman, Olivier Drouin, Parniyan Fakharzadeh, Parto Bokal, Cale Lawlor, Catherine Waters, Chevallier Shahvandi, Paul Downing, Paul Faust, Paul Tjiam, Elodie, Chiara Pentini, Christian Kayed, Christina Paul-Noël Dumont, Petros Mouchas, Phuong Tran, Gade, Cinzia Mina, Damjan Sinigoj, David Cassan, Pier Giorgi, Regi & Andi Keller, Regine Fisahn, Remko David Droob, David Treller, Desislava Slavcheva, Donga, Rens Geerse , Reto Vogt, Ricardo Puerto, Dominik Hetzer, Edda Senior, Edo Willemse, Elise Richard & Joan Williams, Roderick van de Weg, Roëlla Vonk, Elizabeth van Tilborg, Eloise de la Croix, Ester de Ruiter, Ronald De Hertogh, Rouhollah Fallahi, Roya Vila, Eugenio Ariztia, Eva Anita Steiger, Farnoush Moradifar, Ryan Mckechnie, Ryan Teo, Ryo Kakiuchi, Sheykhani, Florian Siebeck, Franca Gilissen, Franco Sadra Beygi , Sebastian Lopienski, Shahireh Nozari, Pagnoni, Frank Westerhof, Frans Ewals, Geert van Simon Coombe, Simon Walo, Simone Zoppellaro, Waveren, Gert Fisahn, Gilda Gazor, Greg Minshall, Siska D’hoore, Stefan Gruber, Stefanie Mikkers, Stela Hadrien Cazeaux, Helen Carmichael, Helena Foito Prodanovic, Stephane Baudemont, Susanne Janssen, dos Santos, Helena Henneken, Henry Bacon, Hojat Svein Skalevag, Sveta Selivanova, Terry Hooper, Kermani Nejad, Hon Chiu Vincent Ko, Ian Thomson, Thessi Summer, Thibaud Marcesse, Thomas Nash, Ioannis Mamoukaris, Jaap Hooijkaas, Jacek Jancza- Thomas Sarosy, Thomas Schneider, Tim Rom, Tobias rek, Jan Setnan, Jan-Pieter Visschers, Jascha de Leupold, Tobias Wolski, Tom De Mits, Tomasz Ko- Ridder, Jason Pemberton, Jeanne Watt, Jenny Hess, zaczek, Ursula Streit, Vida Pirlou, Xavier law, Xin Tian Jessie Toose, Jim Lowther, John Pasturel, Jonas Keil, Yong, Yao Zhang, Yasi Ayat, Yorian Bordes Joris Tieleman, Julia Dorenwendt, Julian Madsen, Kaldia Douag, Kamran Hasani, Katharina Lüke, Kay 370 WRITER THANKS Jenny Walker Iran is acknowledged as a country of wonders Simon Richmond – and this includes the legendary hospitality Many thanks to the following for their assistance extended to visitors. A general thanks, then, to in preparation for and during my research in Iran: all who helped contribute to the information in Andrew Burke, Gabe Kaminski, Laili Sadr, Mathew the Central Iran chapter. Specific thanks to Bijan BEHIND THE SCENES Scott, Yi-Juan Koh, William Lodder, Navid, Sogand, Nabavi for setting the scene, to Mostafa Ramezan- Matin, Shirin, Ali, Farah, Ramin, Armin, Masoud, poor for attention to detail and most especially to Jalal and Berzhad. Mojtaba Heidari for his extreme efforts in extreme circumstances – not forgetting his signature coffee Jean-Bernard Carillet stops! Biggest thanks to beloved Sam (Owen), A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller. made this trip an enlightenment, especially Mojtaba, Eric, Amir, Ibrahim, the young couple met Steve Waters on Qeshm and all the people I met on the road. At Thanks to all the beautiful Iranian people who Lonely Planet I’m grateful to Helen for her trust, smoothed my way, picked me up when I was miles and to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros from nowhere, bought me tea and chocolates, or bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose chelo kabab, who taught me lessons in humility, support was essential. patience and honesty, who told me subversive jokes, made me laugh, shared their food and perse- Mark Elliott vered with my mangled Farsi. And thanks to Rahel, Many, many thanks to gallant guides Shahram and Kaz, Hamish, Megan and Roz for being yourselves. Mojtaba, to Helen, Dylan and Megan for making things possible and to Sally Kingsbury and my unbeatable parents for so much love and support. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Thank you also to countless kind Iranians and Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson travellers who were so generous with their time, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of hospitality and information, notably Vali, Reza and the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- family, Rino, Ahmad, Amir, Jalal, Mohammad and ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Akbar. Cover photograph: Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah Anthony Ham (Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque), Esfahan, JPRichard/ A big thank you to my editor, Helen Elfer, for trust- Shutterstock © ing me to write about such a wonderful part of the world we both love. And to my co-authors – Mark Elliott, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Simon Richmond, Jenny Walker and Steve Waters – who together represent some of the finest writers writing guidebooks anywhere. Destination Editors Helen Assisting Cartographer Julie THIS BOOK Elfer, Lauren Keith Dodkins This 7th edition of Lonely Product Editors Joel Cotterell, Cover Researcher Naomi Planet’s Iran guidebook was Anne Mason Parker researched and written by Senior Cartographer David Thanks to Jordan Hallewell, Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Kemp Indra Kilfoyle, Kate Mathews, Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Book Designer Nicholas Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Ham, Jenny Walker and Steve Colicchia Martine Power, Kirsten Waters. The previous edition Assisting Editors Sarah Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, was written by Andrew Burke, Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Carly Shadi Salehian Virginia Maxwell and Iain Hall, Ali Lemer, Kristin Odijk, Shearer. This guidebook was Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, produced by the following: Saralinda Turner ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 371 Index 12 imams 307 Naqsh-e Rajab 210 badgirs 186, 223, 313 Bisotun 130 Naqsh-e Rostam 210 Kashan 154 boat travel 353-4 Pasargadae 210-11 Tehran 38 Bojnurd 270-1 A Abyaneh 157-8 Persepolis 11, 207-10, Qeshm Island 223 books 274, 321-2 , accommodation 336-8, see 208 11 Yazd 182, 183, 184, 185, Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi 258 also individual locations Qal’eh Salosel 143 186 border crossings 351-2 language 362-3 Shushtar Historical Bagh-e Sangi stone garden Afghanistan 351 Hydraulic System 142 232 activities 20-1, 338-40, see Armenia 96, 351 also individual activities, Susa 140 Baha’ism 308 Azerbaijan 95, 351 locations Takht-e Soleiman 103, 105 Bajgiran 257 Iraq 352 Afghanistan, travel to/ Taq-e Bustan 127 Baluchi people 294 Pakistan 352 from 351 architecture 20, 310-14 Bandar Abbas 219-22, 221 Turkey 81, 91, 352 Afin 242 Ardabil 97-100, 98 Bandar-e Lengeh 219 Turkmenistan 255, 352 Ahmedinejad, Mahmoud area codes 17, 348 Bandari people 218 bridges 291-2 Armenia, travel to/from bathrooms 349 Band-e Lashkar 143 Ahvaz 144 96, 351 bargaining 19 Khodaafarin Bridge 97 AIDS 360 art 48, 318-19 Bavanat 211-12 Mir Baha-e Din Bridge 101 air pollution 67, 330, 361 art galleries, see also Bayazeh 181 Pol-e Chubi 167 air travel museums bazaars 14, 21 Pol-e Ebrahimabad 98 airlines 351 Ab Anbar 64 Bandar Abbas 220 Pol-e Jajim 98 airports 350 Art Centre Galleries 64 Bazaar (Kashan) 151 Pol-e Khaju 166 to/from Iran 350-1 Assar Art Gallery 64 Bazar-e Bozorg 160-1, 8 Pol-e Shadorvan 142-3 within Iran 353 Fine Art Museum 49 Bazar-e Sartasari 232-3 Pol-e Shahrestan 167 Alamut Castle 121 Gallery Mellat 64 Bazar-e Vakil 196-7 Si-o-Seh Pol 166 Alamut Valley 15, 118-22, Iranian Artists’ House 64 Caravanserai Azizolaof Tabiat Bridge 41 120, 15 Jahan-Nama Museum & 260 budget 17 Alborz Mountains 12, Gallery 49-50 Covered Bazaar bus travel 356 72-3, 12 Muzeh Sanati 233 (Kermanshah) 128 to/from Iran 352 alcohol 305 Seyhoun
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