18 .2£PB SAINT PAUL DAILY GLOBE: SUNDAY MORNING, JUNK 16, 1895.--- TWENTY PAGES. DO YOU EVER HIDE? If! CASE OF NEED.
A LITTLE STORY OF THE GIRL GOWNS THAT ARE VERY BE CO 31- % < ;.:•;''""AND -.' THE BICY- ING TO CERTAIN YOUNG CLE. -MATRONS.
THE COSTUME SHE WORE, HAIR-DRESSING NOVELTIES*
psyche knots; teapot han- pretty gown, of very light beige SMART FROCK COAT THE THING cloth. dles AND OUR GRAND- The skirt, ample around the foot, .'- is " ' .'\u25a0 FOR THE NEW WOM- .'' \. by ': ; adorned two wide, pointed bands \ ' , .'\u25a0-. \u25a0-\u25a0 ' AX. : r"J*nCI_R A, the Great Skin Cure, and MOTHERS"' STYLE. of embrlodery and braiding. • The \u25a0 '-*-' ' "' i > ''^* V CuticußA Soap, the • most effective of bodice is covered with similar embroid- - preserve. ery and braiding. -."A belt, cherry Skin Purifiers jand - Beautifiers, silk purify, 1 -beautify skin, scalp, and NOBBY SUMMER is fastened in a bow. BLOOMERS WORN, OF COURSE. and the ...-.-\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0•. 'NECKWEAR* front with The " fails. Rem- toque accompanying the -gown in -en- hair when all else ; Cuticura tirely of flowers,. with an aigret bow of edies are of the utmost purity and deli- and to cherry taffeta. V cacy, especially appeal the refined Fancied In Parasols Har- - - But There '' Ik No Argument as to in every community. . \u0084; crepon, which ...."' f per's Talk to the We have gradually drifted into a skirt in the new faifn j East, South, West. . the Fact That They Are ;~; Sold throughout the world. BrUirti depot: F. New- ' at^the'-bacjli, ' Best & Sons, K"n_ K.Mr-.rd-ft.,London. P.iTT.n airy fabrics, dainty fastens over the bodice I '• Chicago Great Western Railway "'• I. -«fe) '" Ladies. fairy land of The Unbecoming,- D-ld ftCir__-ic.»_ Co J"*, Props., Uo.ton. V. 3. A, \u25a0'"*•'.":: laces, flowers soft, pale tints, and having a black satin waist band j will sell tickets to Cleveland, Ohio, and and j single heralds alike of fashion's decrees and a slight indication' of afhas que | return on June 17th at one fare. \u25a0'-." 7 Jb&dfc_'*is I To Chattanooga and return on June and summer sunshine. In these days shaped to the hips. "The*' woman:-. • Nothing can beat the rather NEW YORK. June There are crape n I 25th and 26th at one fare for the round Special Correspondence is from. being quick a new f|""ilk,,BVi"^^* \u25a0 of the Globe. fashion far the made of .J "trip. , ;..":;'". y^y ; short skirt and well shaped leggings. times in the lives of most young ma- changing artist she is so often de- a Cashmerian. design of many color- j •• NEW YORK, June 15.—"D0 you I have s_-_i' bicycle costumes in London trons it difficult to cos- and^thp To Boston and return 'on July sth to when is find scribed. The styles of one season ings. It has a lace jabot, Bth, inclusive, and August 19th to 24th, ride?" Ithoughtlessly asked a young and Paris, as well as New York, and my opinion' tumes alike comfortable and dressy; through gradu- quite new. The Inclusive, one fare. Woman. "... "Well, rather," was the is still the same. melt into another cut of the sleeve is . at .*"* j l and also draped or otherwise to dis- ally •_ quick reply. course you LE BARON DE BREMONT. developed differences of detail, capes that fall over it soften the fulfc I To Denver and return on July 4th "Of refer to guise the figure, and it is but lately only appreciate. caught up ' to 6th, inclusive, at $27.90,' and on Au- ' bicycle, as no one anything: which the initiated ness of the puff, in-Un- j the rides EMBROIDERY. that special study to llth and APPLIQUE has been given But if the changes now apparent are expected places, thus giving addi- gust 12th at one fare. else at the present time. Should just B:*.; find a means of meeting those require- To Louisville and return on Sept. Bth think I got not radical they are real, and no por- tional grace. The front of bod- J do ride, and have such This Form of.. Needle "Work Is ments. No soft or clinging material tion quite it especially with the to 10th, inclusive, at one fare. a perfectly sweet costume dead be- of the dress is what ice is noticeable City Ticket Office, 364 St., Adapted to Colored Linens. is used in making up such gowns, year. falling . Robert coming and in weight next to noth- \u25a0was last ; pointed jacket piece over the corner sth. The colored linens are enjoying a but rather those of harsh and wiry details, ing—that I can spin along at the Descending to a record of ! waist band. • .-.'.:' great deal- of favor just now, and cer- weave, ll'te the alpacas, mohairs, En- the the . RIBBON EMBROIDERY. ; _ rate of ten we find distinctive feature of j The blouse still continues its tri- miles an hour without the tainly they' are : a boon to dwellers in glish bunting, taffeta glace and serge. season's fashions, aside from the as re- least exertion. My is umphal progress, and is far by using costume made towns, with whom the white work so This gives to the folds of the gowns a elaborated sleeves and wide, flaring The work is done the tiniest of; brown linen; short skirt buttoned moved in form from the rustic sim- of ribbons and. embroidery strung by; soon becomes soiled by fogs and smuts. full and broken outline which calls j the plain Many goods plicity of its name as may be. means of a species of appliqued work at side, all -round, with of the white linen to be attention more to its harshness than big pleats at the up Every season has marked. a stage on to satin. To be successfully done an double back to had in the '-hops are made with the cause of the garment. There was •dause it to gracefully in its onward march, until now it embroidery frame is needed and an fall over the one elegant gown serge seat; neat of dark bin • is in many a costly con- artistic taste in choosing colors. Pale little vest of brown vel- cut demi-princess in instances vetstunning, the back and with fection of gorgeous material an. blue or cream white satins, on which I assure you, when a Watteau plait. Th skirt was slight- sprays you see elaborate design, the work of a .•are embroidered of roses of it with collar and silk tie. ly trained and very full. The front ; infinitesimal size, small flow- wear or some Two-button cutaway coat, extra was cut with a loose princess modistic genius and the of the jI ers, are used as screens, fans, pin- effect, and These 'short and no full sleeves just the which hung down free from the fastidious fashionable. ! cushion covers and are even made up plain waist. j ordinary ; riding coat sleeve The front in a beautiful blouses bear their name coverings. ; was filled with • very . j \u0084 I for sofa pillow -. fullsleeves for bicycling look' some-— in irony and demand as plainly, as there is a effect, better ATTORNEY GENERAL HARMON'S FAMILY. full underdress of dark blue taffeta. But bolder what •"•'floppy. Not smart and com- silk and lace can proclaim it that the suited to large pieces, given by the This was gathered In around plaits to j pact enough, don't you know. skirt companion should be worthy use of broader ribbons embroidered on Bloom- a yoke and was belted in with a rich selected, then ers? No, indeed! I like the alliance. i satin. According to the New York and go on duty year knicker- blue ribbon sash. The yoke and bot- Wide collars decor- year, they bockers under the strapped ate the simpler blouses designed for Herald, this last is especially adapted after so j are not so .very skirt at . tom of the skirt had rows of cream- to screens. In illustration is shown the. knee gaiters reaching up summer wear. These seem a thought I the . GEJWSII-PABftSOIiS. extravagant after all. The cover- — colored lace insertion laid on fiat. The 'to them over patent-leather shoes. felicity, as many women possess ings are new, of course, and often sleeves were bishop, entirely overlaid of Don't the women look when I am rare old lace just suited to the mak- with the white insertion. There was a JEWELER AND PAINTER ARE out on my wheel. I don't mind, be- ing of these collars. In the absence bow of the ribbon at the back of the NOW DOING MOST OF THE ',' cause I know my get-up is quite *au neck, with ends falling the of old lace valenciennes of modern fait,'—seeing to bottom BONNET. TOQUE. STRAW HAT. WORK, that I got it at Red- make is largely employed, but any fern's, and he knows of the dress. what's what if There .was another style of gown {,-._ attempt at more than a mere men- any one does." Well, I suppose it's skirts, craze all tended for the same purpose. This had is the for lace and j tion of the chemisettes and blouse fate every one just right a regular Mother of taf- showy that . is Hubbard rake sorts of ornamentation. Fan- fronts made of bastiste and trimmed down crazy about bicycling, and feta glace, to which the reel of the now necessary to NEW. ONE FOR EVERY GOWN. this ciful touches are | with lace is futile, for there is no end young lady was right in saying she dress was gathered with a narrow up- the success of a gown. Another no- j to the variety. I considered that she looked standing ruffle. The color was seal use j stunning brown. It had eight ticeable feature is the general t | In evening dress there are mdi her get-up was just as pretty as breadths of the cream tints on THE REAL. SWAGGER GIRL EM- silk gathered to tho yoke and was of white and all ;I cations that the sleeve has had its any I have had the pleasure of see- faced up with whether or light. All ! PLOYS ARTIST TO SE- cambric to near the dresses dark | day, though it still survives in a j | AN ing until on strolling into the English APPLIQUE ON LINEN. waist. The sleeve? were lego' mutton, laces, ; sorts of both real and imita- ' gigantic puff. Occasionally the puff LECT COLORS "- tailor's on Fifth avenue for my usual but were nearly hidden by deep double tion, are formed into quaint bre- is replaced by a cluster of bows or visit last week I had an capes, each bordered by a band of but- berthas collar, I opportunity corners and hems of colored colored telles. and but the a drapery of lace, which indicates a j feast my eyes on some of the the ma- ter lace Insertion. 'to In my wanderings today prevailing fancy is for narrow Val- tendency to dispense TO OFF HER daintiest costumes terial, but ifthe article needed is to be I came | with the. sleeve SHOW COMPLEXION it has so far been made entirely of the colored fabric it across a novelty In hairdressing. There enciennes lace and insertion, which altogether. my good luck to see. Two that were are used unsparingly on gowns, silk I is very economical to buy this by the is now no one general style of dress- S Knickerbockers, which have be- singularly becoming our artist has yard and to make it up after ing the hair, each lady '•in. a law waists and chemisettes. Equally pop- ,' \ .'\u25a0'\u25a0 ' ..' .*\u25a0' '\u25a0"'\u25a0. \u25a0'•.".---' '\u25a0 . embroid- unto herself, the judge being he come indispensable additions to the - Sprays""-• of Forget- here sketched. ering it. look- I \u25a0 Hand-Painted ing glass. ular are. jetted and spangled trim- j ; \u25a0 SMALL BUT USEFUL.' Some wear the low Psyche i cycling costume, have increased so \u25a0 Applique ought mings of brilliant colorings and . nie-nots on Gertrude Van- not to be overlooked knot, some the teapot handle, others i much in popularity with women in now that colored linens have been the style of our grandmother., and so Persian bands of numerous soft sub- ; derbilt'- Parasol. I I general that they now form an im- has to changed to ' brought to such perfection. Charm- dued tints "woven together the framework be with I! portant stock in the .large .-,. stores. I suit the prevailing mode, but the ing heraldic designs have lately b.^en charming effect. brought They are to be found in the 1 under- handles, brook, go on and out made, pale blue linen The newest bonnets and hats are Special- | like the laid upon white and.of wear department, made ofsilk, satin, Correspondence of. the Globe. 1 on intended to he distinguished chiefly for incongru- | forever. .".J"-, outlined;. and j partially filled in with serge, covert cloth and flannel. La- NEW YORK, June Sunshades ous combination of colors and in- I are to the summer girl in; the broad A VANDERBILT SHADE. embroidery., stitqhe...*. The worker of dies find them so convenient for - average Intelligence discriminate assortment of materi- : coaching should find no dif- walking that many , daylight "Vhat the bewitching, se- At the ; parade, the swell als. Three or four and often more are {.'seeding York, ficultyin managing,, simple form of ap- J ' Silk ductive fan is in the moonlight, or spring -: social event in New plique colors appear on one bonnet, and petticoats in their favor. knic- forherself. Ifshe lines off a bold j are ; flannel, or the starlight, or the electric light, Miss •Gertrude Vanderbilt, as the transfer pattern upon the linen, jet, chiffon, flowers and feathers ! kerbockers lined with colored nun's veiling" to give them additional for that matter. No part, of the j j richest heiress in America, was well all she has to 'do. -according to a on one hat are no unusual occur- over, every piece of writer Cassell's J warmth, and silk \u25a0 girl of '95's wardrobe reeeivesvinore j looked and her in "Magazine, is to lay prepared for sum- others with china rence. Tlie hats lining attention, 'and it is ; very safe to girlish and simple-looking toilet of this upon a white material and to tack \u25a0 . mer, resorts are many of gi- are without to make them] RIBBON WORK ON SCREEN. " them They- say that ' tfiV ' something , white silk and chiffon thoroughly it well into place. The. outlines on the gantic flyaway cool for the summer. are all', cost is ...to I - structures turned up ,j | the knee; make fashionable mammas, sigh;" for ""discussed. Her parasol seemed a tinted fabric should then be worked at one side or with the I very full and baggy at closely wide brim in gilt frame, , quiet-looking affair, of white, with buttonhole stitch, the slashed in front or where the elastic holds, them in j a blue satin screen, set a straight edge of which should turned back like ! with a design covering the principal touched' with blue, but a oiose in- . . set lapels, are very I place, and slopped off. toward^- the toward the outside of design, and _ __-_&»*?&__*_—trimmed ~_*M__«_f_H_M—s—Uwide the with- CS^-iC-#*-:#S2¥&B—S— I— part of the background. The ribbons, spection of.that 'same dainty sun- — waist, where they gather into a j out exception;;' The stitches should all ' ; which are stiff, with embroidery, are shade showed a covering of flimsy: be yoke. . .v _* i/;,., .; tied in and out in design taken through' both materials. interlining to artistic and point lace over the white satin cov«\ A few open" fillings, In Paris the stiff apparently from the satin dots and lace going style. stand-out Vhile"\u25a0 here and there in stitches are a great' improvement \ dress skirts is out of instead of being placed flat on it. medallions' and The newest gowns fit very closely j ..-delicate lace hand-painted sprays tend to greatly enrich the work, though j PRINCESS ALEXANDRA;;-; \u25a0-• their' at the same time around the hips and have only a V ______of forget-me-nots matched .in these must not he j •'V'v:'*'*: -the, made so closely together entirely facing or icrinoline at tender shading wealth of tur- as to of haircloth j Her Grandmother Would Like cover the colored suf- the greatly j quoise forget-me-nots which I material. When the bottom of skirt. Thjs Her to .Marry Prince Ernest.. ficient embroidery has execute! weight of the garment the"exquisitely carved han- been lessens the Princess Alexandra of breathed ; the colored linen should be cut away woman who Should Saxe- The sticks were enameled a GOWNS YOUNG arid is a relief to the j Coburg-Gotha, whose portrait given :die?:"' beyond the outlines of design, "TOE MATRONS. is blue,""so. was no lining the and wears it. ALICE VARNUM. herewith, marry Prince Ernest of delicate there now will be seen the utilityof the but- Hohenlohe, there will be no one v.'ho to the beautiful confection. tonhole stitch in preventing the cut EXTREMELY PRETTY. margins raveling. on as they like. This style seems to j is likely to be more pleased than the ": LININGS AND COMPLEXIONS. from The general be a compact and convenient way to effect of this simple kind of TnfEetas bride's grandmother, Queen Victoria.' Young girls with their wild-rase applique dress the hair, besides being ornamen- Plaid Silks, CliHnrceaMe ; may be judged tal and novel. The For not only is Prince Ernest heir complexions can afford to dispense with from the portion of a hair is parted at and Crepons. by the back, alter having been waved to the vast estates and immense beauty-giving linings, which- the'' bonier sketched the authority head, the quoted, along the and the queer looking This is indisputably a season of trim- wealth of his father, the present dowagers select with the same -nicety where there Is a scroll of comb is opened and the two strands ribbons, buttons, bright turkey twill applique mings of flowers, governor general of Alsace-Lorraine, and care as they do their very ; best to a back- of hair laid between the teeth, which embroidery, and all these persona gratisslma ground ofecru-colored linen. em- are then closed. The two strands are braid, lace, j but he is also at bonnets. --,"'_-.'-'.>", .o ,mi,- Here in the first sketch we have The may be employed in the adornment of the English court, queen having ... - broidery here' is executed in then slightly twisted and brought, j the There are delicious mauves and cool, a very orignially arranged skirt made white. without any approach to him There are many mote forms under and over until they are all used a single dress j treated' during his residence in sweet grays and greens which tone in deep green light-weight. cloth; it elaborate up, and ends are to snugly Of a of this class of work, that the be bad taste in over-elaboration. ! England not as a mere secretary of down a highly colored complexion, is widely box-pleated all the way but few tucked Inside with hairpin., which exquisite ] are more course, it must be done with the German embassy, to which he was while the rosy pinks, bright scarlets round, and at the back the pleats meet effective. should be so placed as to be Invisible. will be wonderfully attached, • The points on the comb are of tortoise taste, or the effect j but as a very Hear and and maize colors give the requisite are double. The smart little coat ostentatious and insistent, or it need dear relative. This is surprising and Concerning Trilby, shell, and In some instances they are . not brightness and warmth to the color- collar and revers, and the jeweled. Is very all, for simply con- | it is has wide The effect neat, and not be done at when borne in mind that his less brunette. After the jeweler i has waist band of tan leather passes under- New Orleans Picayune. I should think It would be comfort- structed dresses are as fashionable as j father. Prince Hermann, is the son of supplied the handle and an artist has : neath the coat at the front. The Hol- I don't know why the announcement able. those much trimmed. It is quite a her majesty's half sister, Feodore, to passed upon the lining, the that Du-Maurler is coming Next to the hair comes the summer outer land shirt and red silk tie are a pretty over here The matter cf suiting individuals,, for some j whom she was so warmly attached. ering is chosen with the most delib- gloves, this summer : with neckwear. dainty linen collars, contrast to the green. The a certificate of cuffs and chemisettes are prettier than women .look their best with the least erate care. If a lace covering is. to and hat correspond in shade, character for Trilby gives me a right STYLISH DAY GOWN. gaiters ever. Some of them have a ruffle of possible amount of trimming, while . r :.' • A $300 AFFAIR. be used, the satin or silk must , be. thick knitted stockings con- to tell my Trilby story, but it does. while embroidery around the edges plain, else the general while the happened others require a great deal in order effect will -be all the shades used in this cos- It at a reception, and it was and above that a narrow raffle of lace, to secure a good effect. patchy. ; ' :,r' tain during the time either coffee or tea stain, never " tume. that the Trilby dis- color or very high at one side or at the This year's dress, whether viewed col- the old days,' when an umbrella for Particularly fetching are the silvery'''" - cussion waxed fast and furious. I white. The effect i \u25a0; very pretty. flowers, or lectively or individually, is extremely lilacs; green and rose color if lace found myself sitting beside There are a very few colored collars, back, with feathers or rainy, days, a dark blue parasol for the a beauti- mostly and plaids, cheery white; black, white, yellow fully gowned young fine delicate but both. A pretty and original black bright and and pretty, calcu- mornings' and a white silk for dress- cover is woman, and she the most of the softening and lend asked if these show hat seen had a green straw edge al- lated to have an enlivening effect on up, was considered a bountiful sup- scarlet themselves well to me I had read the much- ru'ltcs. The cuffs are cut like gaunt- most hidden by the spirits, and therefore by no moans black lace. The most stylish parasols talked-cf• book. I had. let"!, and tho collars have very high tufts of black vio- ply. _ \u0084.A .'„' of flowered silk, straight lands, Raring I are the Dresden "It is with cor- lets, a velvet crown, without its weight in the adjustment .. .. - '.'•" woven very immoral," said she. the band around the doings. Bright have \u0084". In. .these '.^progressive . days, ; th__ just the required shape. Oft creamy I protested. nels turned down. a plume of a of social . colors the Parasols due,.- now fancies frills ostrich feathers and always a eye if are belle changes her parasol with : her ground all sorts of exquisite flowers "It was 'written in French," con- and black satin standing up charm for the they she each succeeding da I saw today cne bow on one well arranged and not too insistent, gown, and one of the seven trunks, are reproduced in all of the wonderful tinued. of rose silk, Bide, a colon with circles oC lisse rosette on the other. and this season they greet the eye which . is the proper allowance for j shadings- so familiar en bits of Dres- I protested again. pearly h_3tcred spanglei worked all A quite new bonnet which be- on every side in hats and bonnets and •a ; debutante maiden, is " filled with den china. Around the edges a border "Yes," she said, it was, and part, of longs especially 1895, when ' shows of the flowers, massed into it were so bad that they to gowns and blouses. - • parasols, each securely tucked away bouquets, joined by long couldn't be breadth is the groat consideration, Plaid silks, changeable and loops and translated' into 'English. A man who taffetas chiffon, flowers and all, in their long, lovers' knots of silver, gold or pale read it is modeled on the idea of a. crepons are the materials of the sea- told me so, and there's part" of Dutch narrow boxes, silk-covered and sat- blue ribbons...... • book in peasant's jet son. In addition to mohair- is * the French to prove it." headdress, the form- these in-lined, and ifurther ; LIKE ing wing-like in all tints. goods, ornamented A ROLL OF VIOLETS'. ."' appendages starting much worn, This ;the owner's monogram painted Hide, crepon, varies much quality and -with Mrs. John Jacob Astor brought over on the "leant "In 1 from the middle toward the side, like in ' "White price. stiffness and spring in her chosen colors. ;\u25a0 a dream of a parasol from Paris.which Bear where they meet a large Its make used for Lake. and beauti- it suitable for the present expansive It-seemed a - little bit wicked to she the first time on . Decora- day. Closed, . St. Paul & Duluth trains make con- ful mauve orchid. A rich osprey of <\u25a0 tion it resembles nothing style of dress, and as it is light, cool count up on the pretty, demure nections at Lake Shore, unusual size stands erect over the so much as a long, slim roll of violets, White Bear and does not retain dust there is no with a handle of green enamel, thickly Lake, with steamer "White Bear," forehead. The bonnet is of shot lack making tour of ofreasons for its position of favor.- studded with . amethysts. Opened, it the lake and return to straw, green and black, like a bee- The finer weaves are mixed St. Paul for very low with . silk j.. When queen's mother, proved to be the inevitable sunshade, a. rate of 50 cents while a large and are beautifully the the for the round' tle's wing, wired lace smooth and glossy. Kent, died, but such a beauty of. a was trip. Trains leave St. Duchess of her last words sunshade dally a.'m., bow, .secured by a handsome orna- Gowns of this material are "'plain, or •! daughter, never seea before. The lining Paul 8:30 10:35 a. m., 12:10 p. i were to commend her. other was rose m., 2:30 ].. ment, trimmed with guipure. Mohair pet- m., 5:05 p. m., except Sun- appears on either side. The ! Feodore, and the latter's . children to i lilac, just: the shade so becoming to days, ticoats also occupy a prominent posi- Astor, 5:30 p.m., C:10 p. m. Except Sun- utmost ingenuity has been displayed I Victoria, and as the queen had after Mr3. and which she usually- days, 7:30. p. m. tion in fashionable esteem. -They are ! wears. was not on straight 11:00 p. m. and 1:25 p. in mixing the colors of the shot her accession treated her mother with It put and m., Saturday only. ' marked plain after the manner of the old- straw, and they can be had to match coldness and neglect, it is