Saturday, July 3, 2010

Bardsey Island

Cymru, she calls to you

Where stood Owain Glyndwr for liberty His call still rings from tree to tree Bran’s mighty head still guards the land And Arthur sleeps with his warband But deeper still in wood and well The sacred realms where Faerie’s dwell The Goddesses shall always reign Where earth meets pool, we call their names Arianrhod, Cerridwen, Rhiannon, Blodeuwedd, Modron -smb 7/2/10

At breakfast, Mara introduced us to today’s guide, Hillary Wylde, and expert on the folklore of this region, the Llŷn Peninsula. The peninsula extends thirty miles into the Irish sea from Northwest , southwest of Anglesey (Wikepedia). It is part of the ancient region of .

Mara started our adventure with a wonderful prayer asking Elen of the Ways (a Christian Saint or early Celtic Goddess) to bless our journey. She is associated with Druidic plants such as trefoil and speedwell.

Once aboard our bus, Hillary led us down the peninsula, pointing out the various places in the landscape where the legendary tales of Arianrhod, Blodeuweld, Dylan, Math, Lleu and Gwydion, from the Mabinogion took place. The stories were associated with the remarkable landscape, and I fervently hope that Hillary writes the definitive folklore complete with photos of the area. I would love to see all the Celtic tales documented thus, for so many of them are legends of the land – the land itself inspired the tales in the Bards.

Hillary told us that Ariahrhod, Cerridwen and Blodeuwedd were seasonal goddesses of the land. She pointed out Dylan’s rock, where it entered the sea, the place Gonrw speared Lleu, etc. Blodeuwedd was turned into an owl as punishment for her part in the attempted murder of her husband. But Hillary saw it in a different light – the transformation of a youth to an elder with the wisdom of an owl, claiming the right to choose her own destiny – her own lover, rather than be a pawn of a royal dynastic marriage. In Greek culture, the owl is associated with the powerful Athena, the Goddess of Wisdom.

I am Blodeuwedd Distilled from men’s dreams Flower faced, smooth limbed Skin as smooth as cream

I have no mind or will I live on flattery Mine is the art of arousal My fear is battery

But with the spark of life Came individuality I dared to love another And changed my reality -smb, 7/3/10

We stopped at the chapel and well of Saint Cybi, a 6th Century Cornish saint who also established churches in Wales.

St. Cybi’s Chapel

Hillary leading us to a sacred well

Saint Cybi’s wellhouse

There is a legend that Joseph of Arimathea brought Mary to the Isle of Mona, and there is (or was) a well dedicated to her. Perhaps this one.

St. Cybi’s Well (with Merlin)

There are legends that eels were reported to appear in the waters, an alternative to the magical salmon and snake – totems of wisdom. There is a solution of silver in the waters that gave it a healing property. St. Cybi was said to have spread his staff over the land, and a spring came up, creating the well. There are also legends of buried treasure on the grounds.

Travelling up the hill we entered the territory of the famous boar, Twrch Trwyth, who may have actually been an Irish chieftain, whose emblem was the boar. The hill we visited may have been the original hill fort of this boar-tribe.

An eerie path through the woods to the hill fort of Twrch Trwyth The pathway through the woods was mystical, with twisted moss covered trees and a root path almost like a stairway. I found several raven feathers along the way – evidence of the Irish Morrigan, whom the invading Irish tribe might have worshipped?

Hillary and Mara, in Twrch Trwyth’s hill fort

These two amazing guides and teachers reminded me of the ancient priestesses of the land.

The ancient remains of Twrch Trwyth’s hill fort above Saint Cybi’s Church

Captain Alan and his bus

On board again, we rolled through Tre-r Ceiri, Edern, Nefyn, Garn Fadryn, and stopped at a point near the sea where there was a cleft in the hill, and we could climb down for a magical view of the Isle of Bardsey.

Llŷn Peninsula

Llŷn Peninsula

Llŷn Peninsula, near Dylan’s Rock

Bardsey Island

Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli in Welsh)

Bardsey Island is steeped in both Druid and Christian tradition. It is one of the places the Druid Merlin was said to have buried the Thirteen Treasures of Britain. It is also called the Island of 20,000 saints (reported to be buried on the isle), and is where Saint Cadfan built a monastery in 516 AD. The monastery was destroyed by King Henry VIII in 1537, but maintains its spiritual atmosphere and is still a pilgrim site to this day.

Located just over a mile off the Llŷn Peninsula, Ynys Enlli is Welsh for the “Isle of Currents”, known for its difficult currents. The English name, Bardsey, possibly refers to Arthurian legend. It is small – only a mile long and 0.6 miles wide, with a 548 rise to the northeast, and a cultivated low plain to the west. The south side narrows to an isthmus. An important migration route for various birds including the Chough and Manx Shearwaters, a bird sanctuary was established in 1953, bringing many tourists. It provides an excellent vantage point to observe sea life – grey seals, dolphins and porpoises, and supports a wildlife sanctuary as well.

Bardsey is associated with Merlin and Morgan – supposedly the isle where Morgan le Fay retreated with him. It is the site of his “glass tower”. It also associated with Arthur – reputed to be his burial site. There are legends that it had its own equivalent to the stone of scone, a place of kingship The island has attracted bards, poets, musicians and artists through the ages.

From: http://www.bardsey.org/english/the_island/map.htm

Mara and Hillary led us down the V shaped (womb shaped) cleft in the hill that gave us a perfect view of Bardsey. This was seen as a sacred place to Madron (the Mother, also associated with Morgan), where she gave birth to Mabon, the Magical Child. The area is known for its Bardsey Apples, another reference to Morgan and Avalon, which may well have been at this site (a Welsh alternative to Glastonbury).

I don’t think that these incredible sites that vie for the burial place of Arthur, the Island of Avalon, etc. are in conflict with each other. They are sacred sites linked to the Otherworld that intersect with our world at many points. The Welsh felt that presence here just as surely as the British felt it at Glastonbury, and both were based on even more ancient legends that they may have brought with them from the mainland, or picked up from the natives that resided here before them (Picts?).

Bardsey Island

Facing Bardsey Island on the Llŷn Peninsula

Known as “Mary’s Well – an ingress on the rocky walls facing Bardsey Isle

Bardsey Island, the heights

We had lunch in .

Aberdaron

Caffi Hen Blas Café – a tea shop in Aberdaron

Susa and Hannah having lunch in Aberdaron

The ubiquitous horse brasses in Caffi Hen Blas Cafe

I love these dark wood multi-paned windows (shot in Aberdaron)

Next we travelled to St. Beuno’s Church, built by a 7th Century abbot near Pistyll It was once a part of a leper colony, and on the pilgrim’s route. Three times a year, the interior is decorated with bunches of healing herbs, grown locally. The stone floor is strewn with herbs and grasses. The church is associated in legend with the flower goddess, Blodeuwedd, who may have been an early deity associated with healing herbs and flowers.

Dr. Edward Bach was inspired by this church to create his Bach Flower Remedies. This rustic church has no electricity, and services are held by candle light. Hillary remembers attending a candle lit Christmas service there.

The grass strewn floor of St. Beuno’s Church floor

Herbal shrine at St. Beuno’s Church

Grave marker of actor Rupert Davies, buried in St. Beuno’s Churchyard

I wished Rupert well in his eternal rest – he couldn’t have chosen a lovelier, more tranquil place than this.

St. Beuno’s Churchyard

Finally, homeward to another fabulous meal at the Trigonos Retreat Center!

After an excellent dinner and dessert, I took another walk outside to view the incredible local scenery.

Trignosos Retreat Center

I had brought two decks of Tarot cards with me on this trip, the wonderful Llewellyn Tarot deck based on Welsh folklore, and the traditional Colman-Smith/Waite deck. One of the other travellers, Stephen, also brought a deck – R.J. Stewart’s Merlin deck. We had an interesting evening comparing Tarot decks, doing readings, and exhausted, we finally trundled off to bed.

Resources:

Mara Freeman’s Celtic Tours: www.celticspiritjourneys.com/

Llyn Peninsula: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ll%C5%B7n_Peninsula

Bardsey Island: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bardsey_Island

Saint Cybi: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cybi

Twrch Trwth: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twrch_Trwyth

Joseph of Arimathea: http://www.britannia.com/history/biographies/joseph.html

Aberdaron: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aberdaron

St. Beuno: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Beuno

Saint Beuno’s Church: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Beuno's_Church,_Penmorfa

Edward Bach: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Bach

Rupert Davies: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rupert_Davies

The Llewellyn Tarot Deck: http://www.llewellyn.com/product.php?ean=9780738702995

Lodgings:

Trigonos Retreat Center: http://www.trigonos.org/

Camera:

Nikon Coolpix P100 (with 26 zoom)