Lesson 3 RECOGNISING FAMILIES AND IDENTIFYING

Aim Distinguish between different plant families and to become proficient at identifying plants.

The best way to build your ability to identify plants is by working with or handling a of different plants on a daily basis.

The first ten plant names you learn are always much more difficult than the next ninety. Similarly, the first 100 names are always much more difficult than the next 900.

If you plan to be a skilled gardener, landscape designer, or horticulturist: you need to learn to identify hundreds of different plants.

As you have seen earlier; there is a system in identifying plant names.

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH PLANT FAMILIES If you can get to know the way the system works, and the broad categories, the whole thing starts to make a great deal more sense. Each new name you confront is able to be associated with things and remembered more easily.

FOR EXAMPLE: “When I see a plant with a daisy , I immediately know that it is in the Asteraceae . Even if the is new to me, I will be more likely to remember it because I’m not only thinking: This is the genus of this new plant , but I am also thinking: This new genus is in the Asteraceae family. In essence, my brain is registering two pieces of information instead of one and that doubles the likelihood of me remembering the plant.

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH LATIN Plant naming is based on the ancient Roman language of Latin. For most people scientific names are a foreign language when they start learning them. In the same way that it can be hard to pronounce a French or Chinese word for the language student it can be difficult to pronounce a new plant name for the student.

The horticulture student has one huge advantage though. It doesn’t really matter how you pronounce plant names. The system of plant naming is all about how you write them, and experts all over the world pronounce the same names all sorts of different ways.

As you become familiar with different names and more comfortable with using them, it then becomes a great deal easier to read, remember, and even pronounce new names that you come across.

ONCE YOU KNOW THE PLANT FAMILY, IT’S A LOT EASIER TO FIND OUT THE GENUS YOUR FIRST AIM Your first important task should be to learn some of the most common plant families, and the things that distinguish plants as belonging to that family.

When you know a plant belongs to the Asteraceae family, in an attempt to identify it, you may only need to look through photographs in 2% of a book, of plants belonging to that family. If you don’t know what family it belongs to though, you may need to look through the entire book.

The first step is to determine if the plant is an Angiosperm () or not.

Angiosperms are plants that produce , and these make up most of our and plants. Plants that are not angiosperms include , , and Algae. None of these plants produce a flower.

If the plant is an Angiosperm it will either be a or a .

You can tell these two groups apart easily as follows:

MONOCOTYLEDON CHARACTERISTICS DICOTYLEDON CHARACTERISTICS

When a germinates, only one When a seed germinates, two emerge with the (ie. ) emerges from the seed at first. first growth.

Leaf veins usually run parallel to each other Leaves normally have branching veins that fan out and are not parallel to each other (but there are exceptions)

The stem doesn’t form growth rings The stem forms growth rings. (ie. if you cut through the of a , you can tell the number of years it has lived by counting the rings)

Flower parts usually occur in multiples of three Number of flower parts vary from family to family (eg. three ) –but there are exceptions

Has a fibrous system Has a main tap root with lateral branches

EXAMPLES OF EXAMPLES OF

Daffodil, , Grasses, , Sedges , Maple, African Violet, Pea, Cucumber

SELF ASSES SMENT Perform the self assessment test titled ‘Test 3.1’. If you answer incorrectly, review the notes and try the test again.

WHAT IS THE LIKE? Another major way to distinguish plants is by the hardness or softness of the .

CHARACTERISTICS OF WOODY PLANTS CHARACTERISTICS

Older wood in stems is hard. Older wood is soft. It would be difficult for the average person to crush even a small piece of stem (say 5mm thick) between your fingers.

Stems are difficult to mark significantly with Stems are easy to mark with your finger nails your finger nails

When you crush wood (not leaves), not much When a stem (not leaf) is crushed, drops of moisture moisture is squeezed out can be squeezed out.

Mostly Dicotyledons Includes most monocotyledons, and some dicotyledons as well.

TRY LEARNING THE FOLLOWING FLOWERING PLANT FAMILIES TO START WITH: Some plant families are more common than others. Some families are also very easy to recognise. Try learning the characteristics of the following common plant families:

AMARYLLIDACEAE • Monocotyledons • Contains more than 65 genera • Most are herbaceous • Most are small clump forming herbs or • Leaves are usually narrow, often strap like • Flowers have what looks like 6 petals surrounding a cup or tube like crown (in fact these are three petals and three ). The cup is more obvious in some genera than others. • Flowers have 6 • Genera in this family include: , , , Cooperia, , , , , , , , , , , , Vallota and Zephranthes.

These strappy leaves are common in the family

Typical flowers of the Amaryllidaceae family

ARACEAE • Commonly called “Aroids” • Dicotyledons • Most are herbaceous • Contains around 115 genera • Leaves are usually roughly heart shaped • is a • Flowers are small and clustered into a spike (often a finger like protrusion), with a single often colourful leafy like structure. These are commonly called “spathe” flowers. • Genera include , , , , Calocasia, Diffenbachia, , ,

A typical leaf

A typical flower of the Araceae family, showing the distinctive spike and surrounding spadix ASTERACEAE (formerly called Compositae) • Commonly known as Daisies • Dicotyledons • Many are herbaceous, but not all. • A very large family of about 800 genera and 12,000 . • Flowers are actually a composite of several small flowers fused together to appear as one flower. • If the flower is pulled apart it can be seen that it is made up of several individual units, each one having its own set of floral parts (ie. , , , etc). Some Asteraceae flowers are incomplete and have only some of the floral parts. Typically, the outer flowers have “ray florets”, which look like the petals of the “larger” composite flower. • Leaf shapes vary a lot. • Many have a white milk sap –but there are many exceptions • Genera include Achillea, Aster, Bellis, Chrysanthemum, Cinneraria, Centaurea, Coreopsis, Dahlia, Erigeron, Helianthus (Sunflower), Helichrysum, Lettuce(Lactuca), Tagates (Marigold), Pyrethrum, Rhodanthe, Rudbeckia, Senecio, Tansy (Tanacetum), and Zinnia

Typical “flowers” from the Asteraceae family – really these flower heads are each one, made up of a lot of individual flowers joined together to create what looks like a single flower.

ERICACEAE (Heath Family) • Commonly called the Heath Family • Dicotyledons • Around 70 genera and 2000 species, but tens of thousands of named . • Most are or small , with woody stems. • Occur mostly in cooler places (eg. temperate climates or regions in the tropics) • Grow naturally and best on organic acid . • Leaves are frequently evergreen, and often more or less leathery (but there are plenty of exceptions) • Leaves normally alternate up the stem (sometimes whorled, rarely opposite) • Flowers have 4 to 5 sepals and 4 to 5 petals arranged evenly, often tube like. • The fruit is frequently a , but sometimes a berry. • Genera include Andromeda, Arbutus, Calluna, Daboecia, , Kalmia, Pieris, Rhododendron (which includes ), and Vaccinium (ie. Blueberry)

Erica

Rhododendron

LAMIACEAE (= Labiatae) • Commonly called the Mint family. • Dicotyledons • Many are herbaceous • Includes around 160 genera and 3000 species. • Stems are roughly four sided (i.e. similar to a square or rectangle in cross ). • Leaves are simple (ie. not divided like a pinnate leaf), and are whorled. • Flowers are two lipped (ie. Half of the petals are larger and fused to make the top section and the other half smaller, joined together to make a lower section. • Often the foliage is covered with small dots containing a volatile oil. This allows identification by smell when leaves are crushed • Genera include: Coleus, Lavendula (Lavender), Mentha (Mints), Origanum (Oregano and Marjoram), Plectranthus, Prostranthera, Rosmarinus (Rosemary), Salvia (Sage)Thymus (Thyme), .

Typical plants

FABACEAE (= Papilionaceae) • Commonly called the Pea family • A Dicotyledon • Includes both herbaceous and woody plants • The 'Peas' were reclassified in recent years, splitting the one old family Leguminosae (ie. Legumes), into three new families (ie. Caesalpinaceae, Mimosaceae and Fabaceae or Papilionaceae). Many people still use the old name though. • All legumes are characterised by a pod fruit. • There are around 500 different genera of legumes • Fabaceae flowers are pea shaped, with 5 sepals and 5 petals. Unlike other legumes, 2 of the 5 petals are joined to form a “keel” or boat like structure. The other 3 petals are free or separate one from the other • Fabaceae genera include: Arachis (Peanut), Cytisus (Broom), Dillwynia, Glycine (), Hardenbergia, Kennedya, Medicago (Lucerne), (Pea and Bean), Trifolium (Clover), Wisteria.

Examples of Legumes

SELF ASSES SMENT Perform the self assessment test titled ‘Test 3.2’. If you answer incorrectly, review the notes and try the test again.

MORE PLANT FAMILIES TO GET TO KNOW

BRASSICACEAE (= Crucifereae) • Dicotyledons The Brassicas include about 200 genera and 1800 species from temperate and sub-arctic regions. All are herbaceous (ie. soft wooded) and most are annuals. Flowers are small, but in large numbers, therefore, conspicuous. They are complete, regular and hypogenous. There are four sepals and four petals. There are six stamens, four longer than the other two (eg. Cabbage, Turnip, Radish, Mustard, Kale, Kohl rabi, Wild turnip etc).

SOLANACEAE • A Dicotyledon • Includes both herbaceous and woody plants. The Solanum family includes such things as tomato, potato, capsicum, egg plant, petunia, belladonna, tobacco and like deadly nightshade. The flowers are generally five lobed (ie. 5 petals and 5 sepals).

ROSACEAE • A Dicotyledon • Most are woody, but there are exceptions. The Rose family includes a wide variety of genera commonly used in amenity horticulture (e.g. Rose, Prunus, Pyracantha, Cydonia, Malus, Cotoneaster, Spirea, Geum etc). There are trees, shrubs and herbaceous perennials all represented in this family. Flowers are generally regular, and the parts are borne on a floral disc. are usually soft or berry like encasing a hard seed.

RUTACEAE • A Dicotyledon. • Commonly known as the Citrus family. • Around 150 genera, and over 1,600 species • Occur from tropics to temperate areas, particularly from and . • Most are woody shrubs and trees, but some are herbaceous. • Leaves are scented, dotted with oil glands. • Flowers have 4 or 5 sepals and 4 or 5 petals. • Flowers normally have 10 stamens, but sometimes 8. • Genera include: Boronia, Calodendron, Choisya, Citrus, Coleonema (Diosma), Correa, Crowea, Diplolaena, Eriostemon, Evodia, Fortunella, Geijera, Murraya, Phebalium, Ruta (Rue), and Zieria.

MYRTACEAE • A Dicotyledon • Most are woody. The Myrtle family is very significant among Australian and Asian plants. Foliage characteristically has oil glands (seen as small faint dots on the leaf), and if bruised, a characteristic aroma can be detected. Petals on the flowers are usually insignificant. Examples of genera include: Eucalyptus, Callistemon, Melaleuca, Agonis, Angophera, Tristania, Astartea, Thryptomene, Bauera, Baeckea, Micromyrtus, Leptospermum, Eugenia, Myrtus, Feijoa, etc.

PROTEACEAE • A Dicotyledon The family also tends to have insignificant petals and like the myrtles, is well represented in Australian and African flora. These plants tend to have dry, thick leaves. are large having a mass of furry hairs attached. Examples of genera include: Protea, , , , Leucopogon, , Telopea, Dryandra, etc.

ORCHIDACEAE • A Monocotyledon • Herbaceous plants The Orchids include around 15,000 species, mainly from warmer climates, but with some extending into colder temperate regions. Flowers are showy and complex. The corolla is irregular. The stamens unite with the pistil to form a structure called the column. All forms are perennial and have thickened , or tuberous or bulbous roots.

LILIACEAE • A Monocotyledon • Herbaceous plants The Lilies include some 2000 species, many being bulbs commonly cultivated for amenity purposes. The flowers have 6 petals, usually separate, but sometimes fused (joined). The ovary is superior (sits above the point where you find the base of the petals). Examples include: , (), Tulipifera (Tulip), Hyacinthus (), and

POACEAE (=Graminae) • A Monocotyledon • Most are herbaceous, but not all The Grasses include around 4500 species. Most are herbaceous though a few are woody (such as the ). These include some of our most significant crop plants e.g. , and .

SELF ASSES SMENT Perform the self assessment test titled ‘Test 3.3’. If you answer incorrectly, review the notes and try the test again.

HOW MANY PLANTS DO YOU NEED TO KNOW?

*This depends on the type of job you have

• Most good horticulture certificates will teach you to identify at least 250 different plants

• Most good diplomas will teach you how to identify at least 1000 different plants.

• A retail nursery may sell 500 to several thousand different plants, and would expect their staff to be familiar with the majority of plants that are being sold.

• A home garden on a 1000 square metre or quarter acre block of land could contain several dozen to several hundred different plants. A landscape designer or contractor should be able to identify all of the plants they are working with.

OTHER WAYS TO LEARN TO IDENTIFY MORE PLANTS

Like most things in life, the more you see a plant, the more likely you are to remember it.

Watch plant identification videos and make notes of what you see. Check out what is available through our bookshop: http://www.acs.edu.au/shop

Look at our online plant directory: http://www.acsgarden.com

People who work in nurseries, or visit and browse at nurseries will find it so much easier to learn plant names than someone who rarely ventures away from a book or computer. Visit some nurseries, and read the plant labels.

When you propagate, pot up and give away (or sell) dozens of the same plant, the name tends to be remembered more easily.

Start a Plant Collection. In many of our standard Distance Education courses, we require you to put together and submit a plant collection. This is a technique that is widely used by other schools around the world. Even if you do not undertake such a collection as part of a course, it can still be a great way to build your plant knowledge.

Visit and garden shows and make notes of anything you see (take photos if you can).

Join a garden club, society or association. Mixing and talking with other people who can identify plants will help develop your own ability.

Visit your local botanical gardens where plants are labelled with their scientific names. When travelling, visit the botanic gardens in different cities to learn more about different plant varieties and how they grow in different climates/locations.

WHAT CAN YOU GROW WHERE? The following selections of plants come from a wide range of climates. You should be able to find something on this list to grow in most parts of the world. These articles are presented to raise your awareness of how different environmental factors might affect what can be grown where. You need to consider the fact that such factors don’t only reflect the country or region you come from; but also lots of other considerations that can vary from place to place, even within the one small garden.

GROWING PLANTS IN THE SHADE One of the many bonuses of trees in the garden is the lovely cool shade they provide over summer. However, shade from large trees can also cause a range of different problems for plants and gardens: • Reduced light can restrict plant growth. Many plants in shaded areas will appear weak and leggy, with poor flowering. • Shaded areas are cooler than adjacent open areas. Whilst this is generally a benefit to the garden, growth in shaded areas may be slow in cool climates. • Shade encourages the growth of and algae on the ground (including paths), making them slippery. • Water in shaded areas does not dry up so readily. • Roots from large shade trees compete with smaller plants growing below them. • Soil under trees can be quite dry, as the overhanging leaf canopy prevents water penetration. • Foliage from some trees (e.g. conifers) may be toxic to plants below. • Roots of some trees may give off toxins which inhibit growth of other plants (e.g. Mulberry). • Leaf or branch drop from trees may smother or damage low-growing plants below. • Trees restrict ventilation (air movement), which may encourage disease problems in shaded areas.

PLANTS SUITED TO FULL SHADE

Acalypha wilkesiana Bauera rubioides Begonia Boronia mollis Bromeliads Clivia () Cotoneaster dammeri Cotoneaster dielsiana Dampiera diversifolia Daphne odora Epacris impressa Euphorbia wulfenii Galanthus (snowdrops) Gyneura sarmentosa Hedera (Ivy) Helleborus (Christmas rose) Hydrangea Iresine herbstii Impatiens cristata Kennedya prostrata Lamium Nandina domestica Pieris japonica Plumbago capensis Philodendron Primula Ranunculus Saxifraga Selaginella Tetratheca ciliata Thryptomene Vinca major (Periwinkle)

FERNS GROW WELL IN SHADE Ferns are ideal for growing in shady areas as they are naturally adapted to growing in conditions of low light. Different varieties can tolerate different levels of shade and soil moisture, so use the following lists to choose ferns which suit your particular problem area. You can find ferns suited for growing in most climates from tropical to very cold climates.

Sun Tolerant Varieties Ferns are rarely suited to full sun, though the following will perform reasonably well with some direct sunlight in morning and afternoon. They will need filtered sunlight in the hottest part of the day and at the hottest time of the year.

Hardy to full sun if soil remains moist and humidity is high: Blechnum occidentale, Cibotium glaucum, Dicksonia antarctica, Dryopteris noveboracensis, Osmunda (all varieties), Pteridium aquilinum and Sphaeropteris cooperi.

Hardy with some shading in the hottest part of the day: Davallia trichomanoides, Doodia media, Dryopteris erythrosora,Nephrolepsis cordifolia, Pellaea (most species), Platycerium (most species), Polypodium aureum, Polystichum polyblepharum, Pteris cretica, Pteris vittata and Todea barbara.

Dry Soil Ferns All ferns perform better with cool, moist soil. Some ferns however, can tolerate drier and more exposed conditions: Blechnum occidentale, Davallia trichomanoides, Nephrolepsis cordifolia, Polypodium aurea, Pteridium aquilinium, Pteris cretica, Pteris vittata, Woodwardia fimbriata.

GROWING PLANTS IN EXPOSED COASTAL GARDENS You’re on holidays at the beach house, or you live in a coastal town, and you’re having problems growing plants in the garden. Maybe your plants are yellowing, burnt or stunted, or possibly you can’t even get them established in the first place. If this sounds familiar, we’ll give you some ideas on how to overcome common problems in growing plants by the coast.

Firstly, you may need to change your expectations. You can’t grow the same range of plants that flourish a few kilometres inland – many plants simply can’t tolerate the salt levels, dry sandy soil and wind exposure of the coast. If your ideal garden is a lush green lawn surrounded by roses and , forget it - you’ll always be struggling against the natural conditions and it’s unlikely that you’ll ever achieve a really healthy and attractive garden. It’s better to choose plants adapted to seaside growing and modify the site to encourage these to grow to the best of their ability.

Depending on how close you are to the sea, and how exposed your garden is, there are several problems which you will need to deal with. The most severe are high salt levels both in the soil, and carried in wind and water sprays, and physical damage from strong winds.

Dealing with Salt Salt is carried by wind and is deposited on the plants and onto the soil. It can cause severe leaf burn and defoliation. Over time the plants become stunted and fail to thrive, especially those growing on the seaward side. The problem is compounded as salt accumulates in the soil.

Choosing salt-hardy plants and blocking the passage of salt-laden wind are the best strategies. The plant lists below will help you to select appropriate plant species.

Creating Wind Breaks Coastal winds damage plants in several ways: • causing physical damage to limbs, especially in storms • causing stunting (shortened limbs and small leaves), as a result of long-term exposure • carrying salt deposits that accumulate on foliage • carrying that abrades leaf tissues, resulting in leaf drop and shoot dieback (often called wind ) • carrying salt deposits that accumulate in the soil

A barrier that prevents or slows down the prevailing wind, therefore, is paramount in a coastal garden. A good windbreak greatly enhances the variety of plants that can be grown in the garden.

Solid fences and walls are useful because they can be erected quickly. These include brick walls and timber or brush fences. A drawback is that they can create turbulence as the wind is forced up and over the fence. A permeable fence (i.e. a fence that wind can move through) is a better choice as it will filter the wind and reduce its speed. Shade cloth, lattice and hessian (as a temporary measure) are good choices.

Growing hardy salt tolerant plants as frontline protection against wind is the best long-term windbreak. A mixture of shrubs and trees that filter the wind is better than using a solid line of one species. Plants also have the advantage that they bind the soil, reducing soil erosion. Some of the hardiest plants to use are those that are indigenous to the area (they are native to the area and are accustomed to the local conditions).

Other Strategies for Growing Coastal Plants • Tree guards Plastic tree guards or shade cloth supported by stakes will help protect newly planted trees and shrubs. • Growing in containers Salt sensitive plants can be grown in pots. Use a good quality potting mix and preferably place the pot in a sheltered spot, away from salt laden winds. • Conserving moisture Even if your garden receives regular amounts of rain, the plants can still suffer from water shortage. Sandy are very free draining, so adding organic materials and using surface mulches is important. Seaweed is the most obvious choice for a mulching material – it’s free and is usually plentiful, but it needs to have any surface salt washed off before you use it. Many soils consisting of high levels of fine sand commonly are water repelling, particularly when they have been allowed to dry out. Water from irrigation or rain will sit on the surface in puddles, or run away down slope without much infiltrating into the soil. They are said to be hydrophobic. This problem can be overcome by the addition of wetting agents (ask at a nursery to see such products) • Installation of a drip irrigation system will also help plants establish and grow. • Fertilisers Coastal soils are generally impoverished and have limited capacity to retain applied nutrients. Organic materials are useful; also apply slow release fertilisers (eg. blood and bone or Osmocote) to promote growth.

Hardy Seaside Plants Trees Acacia longifolia var. sophorae (Coast Wattle) Agonis flexuosa (Willow Myrtle) Allocasuarina littoralis, A. torulosa, A. verticillata (Drooping She ) Araucaria bidwilli (Bunya Bunya Pine), A. cunninghamii (Hoop Pine), A. heterophylla (Norfolk Island Pine) Arbutus unedo (Irish Strawberry Tree) Banksia integrifolia (Coastal Banksia), B. serrata Callistemon viminalis (Weeping Bottlebrush) Callitris columellaris (Coast Cypress Pine) Casuarina cunninghamiana, C. equisetifolia subsp. Incana Cocos nucifera ( Palm) Cupressus macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress) Eucalyptus ficifolia (Red Flowering Gum), E . botryoides, E. calophylla ‘Rosea’ (Pink-flowered Marri), E. lehmannii (Bushy Yates) Melaleuca armillaris, M. elliptica, M. nesophila, M. squarrosa Metrosideros excelsa (NZ Christmas Tree) Olea europea (Olive) canariensis () Pinus nigra maritima (Corsican Pine) Tamarix parvifolia (Tamarisk) Tristania laurina

Shrubs Acacia saligna attenuata (Heath Banksia) Brachysema lanceolata (Swan River Pea) Callistemon citrinus, C. rigidus Coprosma repens (Mirror Plant) australis Correa alba, C. reflexa Dodonea viscosa (Hop Bush) Echium candicans (Pride of Madeira) Escallonia macrantha Feijoa ( guava) laurina (Pincushion Hakea), H. sauveolens Hebe cultivars Kunzea ambigua (Coast Tea Tree) Leptospermum petersonii (Lemon-scented Tea Tree) Leucophyta brownii (Cusion Bush) Melaleuca fulgens, M. hypericifolia, M. laterita Murraya exotica (Mock Orange) insulare (Boobialla) Nerium oleander (Oleander) Olearia sp. (Daisy Bush) Polygala sp. Raphiolepis species and cultivars (Indian Hawthorn) Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) Vitex spp. Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary)

Groundcovers/Small Shrubs Alyssum maritimum (Sweet Alice) Arctotis (Aurora Daisy) Carprobrotus glaucescens (Pig Face) Cerastium tomentosum (Snow in Summer) Hemerocallis (Day Lily) Hibiscus scandens (Snake ) Gazania (Gazania ) Lantana montevidensis (Lantana) Mesembryanthemum sp. (Pigface) Myoporum acuminatum (Boobialla) Osteospermum cultivars (African Daisy) Pelargonium australe Sedum spp. Scaevola aemula Stachys byzantina (Lamb’s Ears)

Climbers Bougainvillea Ficus pumila (Climbing Fig) Hedera helix (Ivy) scandens (Guinea Gold Vine) Petrea volubilis (Purple wreath) venusta (Orange Trumpet Vine) Solandra guttata (Cup of Gold) Tecomanthe hillii

HARDY PLANTS FOR INNER CITY GARDENS Like humans, plants face a whole range of additional stresses when trying to survive in a city environment, than they would in non-city areas.

What makes plant growing difficult in inner city areas: • A city generates huge amounts of heat. This can effect the local environment considerably. In particular in summer months plants may suffer heat stress. • Pollution of air, water and soil as a result of industrial processes, domestic wastes, automobile use, etc. can seriously damage or even kill plants (e.g. acid rain, leaking natural gas lines). • Space restrictions often limit the types of plants you can grow, for example overhead power lines create height restrictions and footpaths limit nature strip plantings. • Large areas of hard covered surfaces, such as roads, footpaths, buildings, etc. reduce the amount of area available for rainwater to penetrate into the soil thereby affecting soil moisture levels. • The construction of buildings will often seriously reduce the amount of light that plants receive. • Air conditioning will often produce unsuitable conditions for plant growth, for example fumes from gas heaters or very dry, hot air. • Physical damage due to machinery, vandals, animals, etc. is generally much higher in city areas compared with elsewhere.

Resistant Plants for Urban Areas

Trees

Acacia floribunda Acacia longifolia Acacia pycnantha Acer pseudoplatanus Allocasuarina (many varieties) Crataegus Eucalyptus ficifolia Eucalyptus globulus compacta Eucalyptus ovata Eucalyptus torquata Ficus macrophylla Fraxinus Gleditsia Liquidambar Melaleuca stypheloides Platanus Populus Prunus Pyrus Quercus Robinia Salix

Shrubs

Berberis Buddleia davidii Buxus sempervirens Casuarina distyla Chaenomeles japonica Cotoneaster Cytisus Eleagnus Escallonia Euonymus Genista Hakea suaveolens Hibiscus syriacus Hydrangea Hypericum Leptospermum scoparium Ligustrum Lonicera nitida Melaleuca armillaris Melaleuca decussata Nerium oleander Pyracantha sp. Spiraea Tamarix Viburnum Weigelia

Indoor Plants for Air Conditioned Buildings (adapted to out of balance gases in the air)

Bromeliads Cacti Chlorophytum elatum Cocos Palm godseffiana Ficus elastica Phoenix roebelinii Succulents Zebrina (better than Cocos)

MORE IDEAS OF WHAT TO GROW WHERE Check out articles (current and old) on the school’s gardening ezine Go to http://www.acsgarden.com

ASSIGNMENT Download and do the assignment called ‘Lesson 3 Assignment’.