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Home , Accursed Mountains, Gashi (river), Lake Koman

Albanian & Balkan Peaks: Hiking & Culture in 3 Countries

September 6-22, 2019 - Trip #1938

The Peaks of the , Trip Overview Why would you want to hike in a place called the ? Because they are jagged, remote, impenetrable, and mysteriously beautiful. Step back in time to trek through one of the most spectacular, yet relatively undiscovered and undisturbed mountain ranges in . We will hike for 11 consecutive days in Albania, and , through lush valleys framed by massive limestone mountains, and climb rugged peaks. We will stay in traditional guest houses and mountain huts. We will be immersed in local culture with traditional hospitality and meals in historic, authentic villages. We will be accompanied by an English speaking local guide throughout the trip. Luggage transport (sometimes by horses) will allow us to comfortably hike with just day packs.

Trip Difficulty This trip is rated #4 (vigorous). We will hike from five to eight hours per day, between 6 and 10 miles, with an average elevation gain of about 2900 feet. The terrain is rugged and steep in places, and requires agility. There may be short sections on narrow trails with exposure (steep drop-offs). We will hike at a modest pace, which will permit time for photos and rest breaks. Participants should be in excellent shape and be able to hike for most of the day. Every evening the leaders will describe the hike for the following day so participants can plan accordingly.

Itinerary Summary Before we begin our 11-day trek, we will have a brief city tour of , the capital of Albania, and visit several noteworthy sites in the beautiful city of Shkodra. We then travel north, near the Montenegro border to start our 11 day trek. During our trek, we’ll visit villages and valleys, and climb in such noteworthy places as the Accursed Mountains. The culmination of our hiking will be summiting the highest mountain in Kosovo, rugged Mt Gjeravica. We end our adventure with a ferry ride on Lake Koman on a spectacular fiord. Tentative daily itinerary: Day 1, FRI 9/6: Fly from the US.

Day 2, SAT 9/7: Arrive in Tirana, Albania. Check into the hotel. Optional un-guided group walk to explore Tirana. Dinner on your own.

Day 3, SUN 9/8: After breakfast at our hotel, we will have a guided tour of Tirana. Among the sights we may see are the National History Museum, the gorgeous Et’hem Bey Mosque, built in the 18th century, the main square, and the Ottoman Clock Tower. Following lunch we will drive north about two hours to Shkodra, the largest and oldest city in Northern Albania where we will visit the fortress of Rozafa, from which there are views of the city and the distant mountains. Late afternoon we will explore the town on foot with a sightseeing tour of the city center. The cafes burst with people out for a stroll in the pedestrian area swelling with an Italian atmosphere and lined with bourgeoisie townhouses which are a reminder of the city’s rich past. Dinner will be in a traditional restaurant. We will stay in a hotel overnight.

Skanderbeg Square in Tirana Day 4, MON 9/9: We travel by bus along the shore of beautiful Shkodra Lake, then enter the remote region of , known for charming scenery, rich flora, authentic villages and hearty hospitality. After passing through the village of Selca through a valley with limestone debris we begin our first hike. Wonderful panoramic views are revealed above the narrow valley below. We hike to Sllapi Waterfall with a 225 foot drop in a beautiful setting. Via another trail we reach the valley floor for bus transfer to the alpine village of Lepushe where we overnight in a guest house. Ascent: 2300 ft.; descent 2000 ft.; 4.7 miles.

Day 5, TUE 9/10: Today we take a loop hike on one of the most panoramic ridge walks of the region to get views of the Accursed Mountain massif, and the alpine pastures. En route we will pass by waterfalls and through forests until we reach a wide pasture. We return to our guesthouse in Lupushe with time to explore the village. Ascent: 3000 ft.; descent 3100 ft.; 9.5 miles.

Day 6, WED 9/11: We leave Lepushe on foot and hike to the Pass of Perdolec. From here a gradual walk through meadows and woods leads to the peak of Greben, where there are great views of the jagged silhouette of the Accursed Mountains on the horizon. In the late afternoon we can explore the beautiful village of Vermosh where we stay at a guesthouse. Ascent: 2000 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 8 miles.

Day 7, THU 9/12: A short transfer will take us to the Grbaja Velley in Montenegro. On the ride along the lakeshore we may see traditional houses before arriving in the narrow valley wedged between the towers of Karanfili (8074 ft.). The hiking route in Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley is among the most beautiful in the Balkans. Ascending through an ancient oak forest we enjoy great views from Mt. Can (6112 ft.) before climbing on the ridge to the summit of Mt. Taljanka (6735 ft). Here the views extend far into the Kelmend region of Albania. After the hike we have a short transfer to the village of Vusanje where we overnight at a simple guest house. Ascent: 3100 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 7.5 miles.

Day 8, FRI 9/13: Our luggage is loaded on horses as we start hiking to the valley of , which is in the heart of the Albanian Alps. We climb modestly, following the valley of Ropojana and then steeper after the alpine lake of Gjeshtar. We continue back into Albania until we reach the elevated rocky plateau of Runica. There are spectacular peaks on both sides of the trail. Several shepherd huts, shacks and abandoned military posts line the scenic trail that takes us to the heart of the Alps. The canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (7274 ft.) is visible from afar. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a short ride takes us to the village of Theth where we stay in a guesthouse. Ascent: 2050 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 8.7 miles.

Day 9, SAT 9/14: Today is a relaxing day to explore the village of Theth. Theth is set in an impressive landscape and has retained its ancient mountain culture. We explore the vicinity on a walk through the village, visit the iconic church, former Ethnographic Museum and enter the lock-in tower, or “kulla”. The “kulla” offered protection for men threatened by a blood feud, the perfect place for us to dive into not too recent history and elaborate on the highland law code called “kanun”, its origins, impact and present day relevance. We will walk to the highest waterfall of Albania where a rainbow can sometimes be seen. Below, we rest at an archaeological site where stone-aged terraces have been discovered and gaze down the Grunas Canyon, a 160 ft. deep ravine. A bridle path takes us to Nderlysa where we will have lunch with a family on their farmstead. Our guide will then take us for a walk to the “Blue Eye”, a karst spring where the bravest can take a dip into the icy water. A minibus takes us back to our guesthouse in Theth. Ascent: 500 ft., descent 1300 ft., 3.7 miles.

Theth and Albanian Alps

Day 10, SUN 9/15: Accompanied by horses that carry our luggage we set out for the hike across Pass (5955 ft.) to reach the next valley, Valbona – a highlight of our trek. This hike is the most well-known trail in the Albanian Alps, and it remains the only direct connection with the valley. The initial walk to the higher terraces reveals the village’s full extent when we see the hamlets below. On a clear day many higher peaks can be seen. Weather permitting we take our lunch break ahead of the descent to Rragam where a vehicle will pick us up for the final leg through a dried up riverbed that leads to the guesthouse. When the daylight fades we watch the alpine glow on the rugged peaks over dinner in an idyllic garden. Ascent: 3700 ft.; descent 2400 ft.; 7.5 miles.

Day 11, Mon 9/16: Today we hike to Kukaj, an isolated hamlet where only two families reside. Below the trail bunkers that once protected the border are now scattered in the riverbed. The windy path takes us over lush meadows to a shepherd hut at 5413 ft. In the communist period this was a no-go area and the building was used as a military barrack. From here we can admire the wild and romantic jagged mountain scenery, sample fresh milk products and opt to climb higher to an ancient crossing at the Montenegrin border or stay and enjoy the views. At 6692 ft. a weathered border pyramid remains as a reminder of the isolation Albania once endured. From here views reach to the most dramatic parts of Montenegro. Catching a last glimpse at the Alps highest peak Jezerca (8839 ft.) we descent to the hamlet of Kukaj where we overnight at a guest house. Ascent: 2400 ft.; descent 2000 ft.; 5.6 miles.

Day 12, Tue 9/17: The trail starts near the guesthouse with a long ascent and views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps, including Jezerca (8839 ft). After passing deserted pastures and a forest section, a stepped alpine valley is reached. The Persllopi Pass (6690 ft.) is the highest point and forms the border with Montenegro at the base of the country’s highest mountain, Kolata. Walking past an interesting snow cave and through a karst labyrinth we return to Albania and, with views of the valley over meadows and meeting shepherds, descend to the isolated village of Cerem. If the weather doesn’t permit it, we will walk a shorter route through a canyon to reach a simple guesthouse. Cerem is the last outpost before , without mobile phone signal or electricity. Meals are prepared with ingredients from the garden, water for washing is heated on a stove and the hospitality of your hosts makes up for the lack of comfort. Ascent: 3600 ft.; descent 3100 ft.; 8.1 miles.

Hiking Near Dobordol

Day 13, Wed 9/18: We walk through the village and over meadows and then for a short section on a dirt road to the border and pass again through former Yugoslav territory. Along the way we can sample wild berries, admire the plant life and views to Montenegro’s highest peak. With a bit of luck, we may spot the (Albania’s national animal) at the rim of the deep river canyon while walking at high altitude. The slopes of the Shkelzen Massif are speckled with alpine pastures, some of them are on our route. We may have coffee with shepherds before arriving at the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (5741 ft.). In the simple huts we will relinquish the comfort of a bathroom in return for hospitality. The shepherd families prepare our meals and we have the opportunity to learn more about the lifestyle in the remote highlands. Most of them spend three months with their herds, adding a side income by collecting herbs, berries and recently also hosting guests. Ascent: 4250 ft.; descent 2100 ft.; 10 miles.

Day 14, Thu 9/19: Wishing farewell to the families, we pass together with the horses through the wide open valley under the peak where the borders of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet. Over blueberry covered slopes the border with Kosovo is climbed and for the first time, we see Mt. Gjeravica (8714 ft.) isolated over the alpine tundra that is dotted with glacial lakes. Climbing from the saddle to Kosovo’s highest summit is optional. The views over the Dukagjin plain are splendid from both vantage points. From a shepherd settlement we continue by jeep for ninety minutes to . The city served as a trade center for the whole area and developed a large bazaar and rich merchant caste. Tonight we enjoy the comfort of a hotel in the heart of the old town. Ascent: 3100 ft.; descent 3100 ft.; 8.7 miles.

Mt. Gjeravica, Kosovo Day 15, Fri 9/20: We have time today for optional cultural exploration in Kosovo that may include the Decani Monastery and a bazaar. We then transfer to Dam where the picturesque reservoir is similar to a Norwegian fjord with sheer rock walls and is considered a highlight of the Albanian Alps. The custom made ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at Koman where we stay at a guesthouse on the River.

Day 16, Sat 9/21: We rise early for the transfer to the ferry dock in Fierze for another spectacular ferry ride. Afterward, we continue by car back to the coastal plain and the hilltop town Kruja. Kruja is a historic town where Skanderbeg, the Albanian national hero, led a legendary resistance to the Ottomans in the 14th century. We will see the Kruja Castle and it may be possible to visit the Museum of Skanderbeg. We will stay in Kruja at a hotel.

Lake Koman

Day 17: Sun 9/22: After breakfast, 45 minute transfer to the airport. Say goodbye to the Balkans and fly home.

Possible Itinerary Changes While the itinerary in this prospectus is what the leaders have planned at the time of writing, various factors may require changes for reasons of safety, transportation or lodging availability, and unforeseeable circumstances (such as weather considerations, natural disasters in areas to be visited, or recommendations of governmental agencies). The leaders reserve the right to make such changes as necessary, both before and during the trip.

Participant Profile and Leader Expectations This trip is designed so that everyone may experience our adventure in the Balkans through shared participation in activities and tasks in an organized group environment. AMC travelers are known for their cooperative efforts, and expectations are that all participants will be considerate of others sharing this AMC Adventure Travel experience. You should enjoy traveling and be comfortable traveling in areas that are unfamiliar to you. You should recognize that you might find yourself in close quarters or be less comfortable than you are used to at home. You should make it a priority to help others on the trip and contribute to their having a good time. If you do that, we guarantee that you will have a great time.

This is a strenuous trek geared towards the experienced outdoors traveler. We will be hiking for 11 consecutive days. Some days will be lengthy with significant elevation gains; other days will be shorter and easier. You should have at least intermediate to advanced hiking skills, and be able to hike 10 miles every day, with moderate elevation gains, while carrying enough equipment to keep you safe in the event of bad weather or injury. While no technical climbing is required, there are areas with narrow trails bordered by steep drop-offs. This trip is rated #4 (vigorous). When you participate in this activity, you should be in proper condition for the challenges outlined in this prospectus and equipped with proper gear. Prior to your acceptance as a participant in this trip, you will be asked to discuss your capabilities and experience with us. We may also request references to confirm your fitness level and suitability for participating in trip activities. It may happen on any trip that a trip member is or becomes unable to participate in one or more of the planned activities. Leaders in their sole judgment have the right and obligation to refuse participation in any activity to any group member for reasons of safety, whether of the group or of the individual. Illness, injury or lack of proper gear or fitness for a particular activity are examples of some conditions that might result in a participant’s being unable to perform one or more activity. Leaders may try to find a substitute activity or travel arrangements for the trip member, but this may not always be possible. AMC Adventure Travel trips are run in a manner supportive of and consistent with the conservation, recreational and educational principles and mission of the Club. Trip leaders encourage participant conduct consistent with Leave No Trace environmental and conservation principles and local regulations.

Weather The weather in September is typically sunny and warm. The average high/low temperatures are 75/50 degrees. However, mountain weather is always unpredictable. It is possible we will have colder or warmer temperatures, and nights in the mountains will be in the 45-55 range. Although unusual for this time of the year, there is the possibility of snow. Bring a rain jacket and rain pants, as well as a pack cover.

Trip Cost The trip cost is $2750 which includes all lodging, all meals except dinner the night you arrive, ground transportation, and gratuities to local guides and drivers. The trip cost does not include airfare, estimated to be $850-$1000. Trail snacks, alcohol, fees for optional activities, and items of a personal nature are not included. The price for this excursion is based on quotes or estimates obtained at the time the trip was planned. The final price of the trip will be adjusted in accordance with the best final arrangements we can make. Any savings we achieve, as well as any cost increases we incur will be shared by trip participants. Our cost estimates are conservative, and so a refund is more likely than a price increase. All Adventure Travel trips are run on a non-profit basis and refunds, if any, are issued after the trip’s financial accounting is complete. In accordance with AMC policy, you are subsidizing the leaders' costs. Beyond this, the leaders are not allowed to realize any profit from this excursion. The trip price includes an AMC overhead fee to cover the administrative expenses of offering Adventure Travel excursions. The trip fee also includes emergency medical and evacuation insurance coverage, which is required by the AMC. It does not include insurance for travel delay, interruption, or cancellation, or for baggage loss. If these possibilities concern you, individual travel insurance is recommended. More information about included emergency medical and evacuation insurance, as well as about optional and recommended travel insurance, will be provided to participants in their formal acceptance letters, which will be sent out when the trip has the required number of accepted applicants.

Photography For those interested, this excursion can involve more than a splendid hiking trip. Dan Stone is a talented, semi-professional photographer whose photographs have been exhibited and published in many places. Among other honors, he won the AMC photo contest three times. There is absolutely no requirement that you be interested in photography, or even bring a camera, and this is not a class or workshop. First, and foremost, it is a hiking trip through beautiful countryside. However, if you are a seasoned photographer or a budding novice, or just curious, Dan will share his perspective on any of your photographic interests. Often, Dan will head out before breakfast with the early risers who want to join him for picture-taking in the flattering morning light.

Accommodations / Meals / Transportation We will be staying in a combination of hotels, guesthouses and in a shepherd hut. Some of the accommodations will be very rustic. The guesthouses and shepherd hut will provide blankets, pillows, and most likely will have sheets and towels but you should bring sleep sack and a travel towel. Accommodations are typically in a bunkroom for 2 to 6 people with shared bathrooms. Showers may not always be available and there may be squat toilets. When meals are not provided at our guesthouses, we will eat at local restaurants. All transportation after your arrival in Tirana is provided.

Airlines and Travel Plan to arrive in Tirana, Albania on the afternoon of September 7, 2019. (Leave the US on September 6.) The trip leaders will assist you with information on flights from Boston, NYC, and other points on the East Coast. The trip ends in Kruja on the morning of September 22. Of course, you may arrive early or extend your trip. Do not make any non-refundable travel plans until told to do so by the leaders.

Experience and Risks As participant safety is a high priority for all AMC-sponsored events, procedures and policies have been developed to attempt to limit participant risk. Participants are expected to work with volunteer leaders to reduce risks and make the experience successful for all. You should always be aware of the risks involved and conduct yourself accordingly. Group safety is our number one priority, but keep in mind that you are ultimately responsible for your own safety. Participants should be aware that there are risks associated with outdoor adventure activities, including but not limited to adverse weather and environmental conditions, remote locations of our trips and camps, and transportation in vehicles, on foot, by boat, or on a bike. When you apply for acceptance onto a trip, please carefully read and sign the Adventure Travel Acknowledgement and Assumption of Risks and Release and Indemnity Agreement and call if you have any questions. When you participate in this activity, you should be in proper condition for the challenges outlined in this prospectus and equipped with the appropriate gear as stated. Aside from any personal medical problems, participants should be aware of the possibilities of bug bites, dehydration, sun burn and other heat or cold related problems. You should regularly use sun screen, take care to be adequately hydrated and bring water every day. For a few of the days there is no bad- weather option, vehicle transport, or possibility of turning around.

Application Process and Cancellation

We expect a group size of 14 people, including the leaders. This trip is likely to fill quickly. If you decide that you would like to sign up for this trip, let us know by email or give us a call. We will email you a link to the application forms. A reservation deposit of $1000 per person is due with your application. Please make your check payable to the Appalachian Mountain Club and mail it with the completed forms to Ron at the address shown on the Application. You will be considered qualified for the trip when the leaders have determined by conversation with you that you and the trip seem to be a good match. You will be formally accepted, and your check will be deposited, when the trip leaders confirm the trip has sufficient number of participants and is going as planned. The balance of $1750 is due April 1, 2019.

When registration is complete, the trip leader will send all participants the names, addresses and telephone numbers of those going on the trip.

Cancellations before October 30, 2018 will receive a full refund. Cancellations on or after November 1, 2018 will lose a minimum of $200 of their deposit. Any additional refunds will only be made if it does not raise the cost of the trip to the other participants or leaders. There is a possibility that participants will not receive any refund. Participants are encouraged to purchase trip cancellation insurance. If the trip is cancelled by AMC, participants receive a full refund for any deposits and payments.

Insurance The basic policy that is included with your trip fee is through MedEvac 200. It covers up to $5,000 for accident and sickness expenses, and up to $200,000 for emergency evacuation and repatriation. Coverage includes only the dates of travel of the official AMC trip so additional days before and/or after are not included. Participants should have their own medical insurance. If you are accepted on this trip, we will provide information about purchasing optional travel insurance that could cover cancellation, lost baggage, etc.

Questions If you have any questions or concerns, please contact either of us to discuss them: Ron Janowitz: [email protected] or 603-625-9848 Dan Stone: [email protected] or 617-750-0511

Trip Leaders

Ron Janowitz: Ron lives in New Hampshire and regularly hikes in the White Mountains. He has been leading AMC Adventure Travel trips for nine years. He has led AMC trips to the National Parks in Utah, Olympic National Park, Sedona, the Cascade Mountains, Death Valley, Idaho, , Patagonia, Peru, Scotland, India, Switzerland, Ireland and . He looks forward to exploring this unique area with the participants on this trip.

Dan Stone: Dan is a three-season leader with the Hiking/Backpacking Committee of the AMC Boston Chapter. He has co-led Adventure Travel trips to the Colorado Rockies and the Alsace in France. He has completed the 48 NH 4,000 footers in winter and hiked the entire Appalachian Trail mostly as a series of day hikes. He has traveled extensively, having visited 49 states and almost 60 countries. Dan led a series of AMC hiking weekends that incorporated photography. He enjoys sharing his photos and knowledge of photography with others.

Required Gear

Here is a list of suggestions for what to bring to have a good time on the trip. Most of the items are things you would bring for a day hike in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Passport (must be valid for at least 6 months after trip ends) Medical Insurance Card Day pack and pack cover Duffle bag for horse transportation (max. weight 33 pounds, but preferably much less) (NO SUITCASES) Sleep sack Pillowcase Personal first aid kit Rain gear (both jacket and pants) 2 one-liter water bottles, minimum, or hydration system Wool or pile hat Wool or pile gloves Extra pile or wool layer for warmth Waterproof hiking boots Wool socks Hiking shorts Hiking long pants Synthetic T-shirts Long sleeve synthetic shirt; synthetic long underwear Sunglasses Sun hat Sunscreen Lip protection balm Insect repellent Leisure clothes for travel and restaurants (moderate amount) Personal toiletries (guesthouses and huts may not provide soap, shampoo, etc.) Camp towel Toilet paper and plastic bags for carrying out used paper Hand sanitizer Head lamp with extra batteries

Optional Recommendations Hiking poles (airlines may not allow poles as carry-on baggage); Gaiters (for pebbles and dust, not for snow) Tevas, Crocs, sandals and/or sneakers for leisure and cultural activities Camera Binoculars Ear plugs Small knife (put in check-in luggage, not carry on) Compass Extra shoelaces Zipper-closure plastic bags for packing lunches and snacks Reading material for breaks in the action Bathing Suit Luggage lock