Albanian Alps & Balkan Peaks: Hiking & Culture in 3 Countries September 6-22, 2019 - Trip #1938 The Peaks of the Balkans, Albania Trip Overview WHy would you want to Hike in a place called the Accursed Mountains? Because they are jagged, remote, impenetrable, and mysteriously beautiful. Step back in time to trek througH one of the most spectacular, yet relatively undiscovered and undisturbed mountain ranges in Europe. We will Hike for 11 consecutive days in Albania, Montenegro and Kosovo, througH lush valleys framed by massive limestone mountains, and climb rugged peaks. We will stay in traditional guest Houses and mountain Huts. We will be immersed in local culture with traditional Hospitality and meals in Historic, authentic villages. We will be accompanied by an EnglisH speaking local guide througHout the trip. Luggage transport (sometimes by Horses) will allow us to comfortably hike with just day packs. Trip Difficulty THis trip is rated #4 (vigorous). We will Hike from five to eigHt Hours per day, between 6 and 10 miles, with an average elevation gain of about 2900 feet. THe terrain is rugged and steep in places, and requires agility. THere may be sHort sections on narrow trails with exposure (steep drop-offs). We will Hike at a modest pace, wHicH will permit time for pHotos and rest breaks. Participants sHould be in excellent sHape and be able to Hike for most of the day. Every evening the leaders will describe the Hike for the following day so participants can plan accordingly. Itinerary Summary Before we begin our 11-day trek, we will Have a brief city tour of Tirana, the capital of Albania, and visit several noteworthy sites in the beautiful city of SHkodra. We then travel north, near the Montenegro border to start our 11 day trek. During our trek, we’ll visit villages and valleys, and climb in such noteworthy places as tHe Accursed Mountains. THe culmination of our Hiking will be summiting the HigHest mountain in Kosovo, rugged Mt Gjeravica. We end our adventure with a ferry ride on Lake Koman on a spectacular fiord. Tentative daily itinerary: Day 1, FRI 9/6: Fly from the US. Day 2, SAT 9/7: Arrive in Tirana, Albania. CHeck into the Hotel. Optional un-guided group walk to explore Tirana. Dinner on your own. Day 3, SUN 9/8: After breakfast at our Hotel, we will Have a guided tour of Tirana. Among the sigHts we may see are the National History Museum, the gorgeous Et’Hem Bey Mosque, built in the 18th century, the main square, and the Ottoman Clock Tower. Following luncH we will drive north about two Hours to SHkodra, the largest and oldest city in Northern Albania where we will visit the fortress of Rozafa, from wHicH there are views of the city and the distant mountains. Late afternoon we will explore the town on foot with a sigHtseeing tour of the city center. THe cafes burst with people out for a stroll in the pedestrian area swelling with an Italian atmospHere and lined with bourgeoisie townHouses wHicH are a reminder of the city’s ricH past. Dinner will be in a traditional restaurant. We will stay in a Hotel overnigHt. Skanderbeg Square in Tirana Day 4, MON 9/9: We travel by bus along the sHore of beautiful SHkodra Lake, then enter the remote region of Kelmendi, known for cHarming scenery, ricH flora, authentic villages and Hearty Hospitality. After passing througH the village of Selca througH a glacier valley with limestone debris we begin our first Hike. Wonderful panoramic views are revealed above the narrow valley below. We Hike to Sllapi Waterfall with a 225 foot drop in a beautiful setting. Via another trail we reacH the valley floor for bus transfer to the alpine village of LepusHe wHere we overnigHt in a guest House. Ascent: 2300 ft.; descent 2000 ft.; 4.7 miles. Day 5, TUE 9/10: Today we take a loop Hike on one of the most panoramic ridge walks of the region to get views of the Accursed Mountain massif, and the alpine pastures. En route we will pass by waterfalls and througH beecH forests until we reacH a wide pasture. We return to our guesthouse in LupusHe with time to explore the village. Ascent: 3000 ft.; descent 3100 ft.; 9.5 miles. Day 6, WED 9/11: We leave LepusHe on foot and Hike to the Pass of Perdolec. From Here a gradual walk througH meadows and woods leads to the peak of Greben, wHere there are great views of the jagged silHouette of the Accursed Mountains on the Horizon. In the late afternoon we can explore the beautiful village of VermosH wHere we stay at a guesthouse. Ascent: 2000 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 8 miles. Day 7, THU 9/12: A sHort transfer will take us to the Grbaja Velley in Montenegro. On the ride along the lakesHore we may see traditional Houses before arriving in the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (8074 ft.). The hiking route in Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley is among the most beautiful in the Balkans. Ascending througH an ancient oak forest we enjoy great views from Mt. Can (6112 ft.) before climbing on the ridge to the summit of Mt. Taljanka (6735 ft). Here the views extend far into the Kelmend region of Albania. After the hike we Have a sHort transfer to the village of Vusanje wHere we overnigHt at a simple guest House. Ascent: 3100 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 7.5 miles. Day 8, FRI 9/13: Our luggage is loaded on horses as we start Hiking to the valley of THeth, which is in tHe Heart of the Albanian Alps. We climb modestly, following the valley of Ropojana and then steeper after the alpine lake of GjesHtar. We continue back into Albania until we reacH the elevated rocky plateau of Runica. THere are spectacular peaks on both sides of the trail. Several sHepHerd Huts, sHacks and abandoned military posts line the scenic trail that takes us to the Heart of the Alps. THe canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (7274 ft.) is visible from afar. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a sHort ride takes us to the village of THeth wHere we stay in a guesthouse. Ascent: 2050 ft.; descent 3000 ft.; 8.7 miles. Day 9, SAT 9/14: Today is a relaxing day to explore the village of THeth. THeth is set in an impressive landscape and Has retained its ancient mountain culture. We explore the vicinity on a walk througH the village, visit the iconic church, former EthnograpHic Museum and enter the lock-in tower, or “kulla”. THe “kulla” offered protection for men threatened by a blood feud, the perfect place for us to dive into not too recent History and elaborate on the HigHland law code called “kanun”, its origins, impact and present day relevance. We will walk to the highest waterfall of Albania wHere a rainbow can sometimes be seen. Below, we rest at an arcHaeological site wHere stone-aged terraces Have been discovered and gaze down the Grunas Canyon, a 160 ft. deep ravine. A bridle path takes us to Nderlysa wHere we will Have luncH with a family on their farmstead. Our guide will then take us for a walk to the “Blue Eye”, a karst spring wHere the bravest can take a dip into the icy water. A minibus takes us back to our guesthouse in THeth. Ascent: 500 ft., descent 1300 ft., 3.7 miles. Theth and Albanian Alps Day 10, SUN 9/15: Accompanied by Horses that carry our luggage we set out for the Hike across Valbona Pass (5955 ft.) to reacH the next valley, Valbona – a HigHligHt of our trek. THis Hike is the most well-known trail in the Albanian Alps, and it remains the only direct connection with the valley. THe initial walk to the higher terraces reveals the village’s full extent wHen we see the Hamlets below. On a clear day many HigHer peaks can be seen. Weather permitting we take our luncH break ahead of the descent to Rragam wHere a veHicle will pick us up for the final leg througH a dried up riverbed that leads to the guesthouse. WHen the dayligHt fades we watcH the alpine glow on the rugged peaks over dinner in an idyllic garden. Ascent: 3700 ft.; descent 2400 ft.; 7.5 miles. Day 11, Mon 9/16: Today we Hike to Kukaj, an isolated Hamlet wHere only two families reside. Below the trail bunkers that once protected the border are now scattered in the riverbed. THe windy path takes us over lush meadows to a sHepHerd Hut at 5413 ft. In the communist period this was a no-go area and the building was used as a military barrack. From Here we can admire the wild and romantic jagged mountain scenery, sample fresH milk products and opt to climb HigHer to an ancient crossing at the Montenegrin border or stay and enjoy the views. At 6692 ft. a weathered border pyramid remains as a reminder of the isolation Albania once endured. From Here views reacH to the most dramatic parts of Montenegro. CatcHing a last glimpse at the Alps HigHest peak Jezerca (8839 ft.) we descent to the Hamlet of Kukaj where we overnigHt at a guest House. Ascent: 2400 ft.; descent 2000 ft.; 5.6 miles. Day 12, Tue 9/17: THe trail starts near the guesthouse with a long ascent and views of the HigHest peaks of the Albanian Alps, including Jezerca (8839 ft).