Burma ()

January 18-31, 2014 with Chris Leahy

If it were possible to design a perfect biological hot spot, one could hardly do better than create a place like Burma (aka Myanmar). Situated on the Tropic of Cancer, bounded by ranges whose highest peak approaches 20,000 feet, combining the floras and faunas of the Indian lowlands, the and Indochina as well as its own isolated pockets of endemism, blessed with great rivers and a 1,200 mile long, largely undeveloped coastline, the Texas-sized country contains every Asian except desert. Given these fortunate ecological circumstances, it should not be surprising that Burma contains the greatest diversity of birdlife in Southeast Asia with more than 970 recorded to date, including four species that occur nowhere else and many more rare, local and spectacular Asian specialties.

In addition to these natural treasures, Burma boasts a rich cultural heritage, which, due to both geographical and political isolation, has survived to the modern era in the form of spectacular works of art and architecture and deeply rooted Buddhist philosophy.

Unfortunately – as if to counterbalance its immense natural and cultural wealth – Burma has a history marked by tribal and international conflict culminating in one of the world’s most corrupt and repressive governments, which has destroyed the Burmese economy and greatly restricted travel to the country since the 1960’s. Even as travel restrictions were loosened in recent decades, we have hesitated to offer natural history explorations of this biological treasure house, because most of the income generated by foreign visitors flowed into the coffers of the military regime.

In recent years however the regime appears to be seeking a rapprochement with the developed world and has taken steps such as holding legitimate elections, releasing the Nobel laureate and Burmese patriot Aung San Suu Kyi, one of the world’s most famous political prisoners, and seeking contact with western diplomats. President Obama visited the country in November of 2012. Most leaders of the Burmese democracy movement, including Suu Kyi now endorse travel to their country, with the conviction that increased contact with the outside world will help show the world’s concern for the Burmese people, encourage further democratic reforms and speed economic development. Accordingly, Mass Audubon is pleased to offer its first natural history tour of Burma, following our usual ideals of combining excellent birding, general natural history, and opportunities to become acquainted with a country’s people and their culture. Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504

DAY-TO-DAY ITINERARY ______

Day 1, January 18th: Arrival in Yangon. Our two week tour of the lost-in-time land of Burma begins in the country’s capital, Yangon (Rangoon). After checking into our hotel, we will get our first taste of the Burmese cuisine at a nearby restaurant; the seemingly infinite variety of dishes are both distinct from and also reminiscent of the tastes of the surrounding countries, , and . If time and inclination permit, we can take a short walking tour of this colorful, friendly and safe capital.

At sunset, we will pay a visit to the Shwedagon Paya, arguably the most spectacular Buddhist monument in the world, and as much a bustling social center as a religious shrine. At sunset millions of bats (probably Blyth’s Horseshoe Bat), emerge from the temple and fly off into the night sky to feed. This combination of cultural and natural spectacles will set the tone for the experiences of our next two weeks. Overnight: Season's Hotel, which is very close to the airport is a very comfortable, fairly large hotel. Rooms are very comfortable and clean with hot water, air-conditioning, television, good food and service. English-speaking staff.

International flights from several US airports, including JFK are offered by Qatar Airlines and Cathay Pacific (~$1500 from JFK as of April 2013). Yangon, is the primary international airport of Burma and the second largest airport in the country. Airport code is RGN

Day 2, January 19th: Yangon to Bagan (Pagan). This morning we will fly to Bagan, the ancient city of temples in Burma’s central plains where we will stay for the next three nights. Depending on our time of arrival, we may have an introduction from our local guide about this world famous (and awe inspiring) complex or do some birding in the open, acacia and euphorbia studded savanna around the multitude of magnificent temples. The dry countryside of the Central Burmese Plains has long been isolated by the surrounding mountain ranges, which explains the presence of four endemic species: Burmese Bush Lark, White-throated Babbler, the striking Hooded Treepie and Jerdon’s Minivet. In addition to these rarities, we will also be on the lookout for more widespread species such as colorful Indian Rollers and Green Bee-eaters, Burmese , and Laggar Falcon, which often perches atop the spectacular pagodas.

As always, when we visit the Burmese lowlands, we’ll rest during the midday heat, and later in the afternoon head to the nearby Irrawaddy River for a boat trip in search of the area’s special waterbirds and wetland songbirds. The charming Small Pratincole roosts in numbers on the river’s sandbanks and there is always a fine variety of shorebirds and waterfowl. We’ll be especially alert for the specialized Sand Lark and the rare White-tailed Stonechat in stands of tall grass and with luck we might get to watch an exquisite Pied Harrier winging gracefully over the reedbeds. Overnight: Bagan Princess Hotel is situated in Bagan village and is close to the best birding areas. The hotel is extremely comfortable with spacious and rather luxurious rooms that offer air-conditioning, television & small bar fridge. Hotel also has a swimming pool. Many small and very good restaurants nearby that offer excellent local cuisine.

Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504 Day 3 and 4, January 20th and 21st: Bagan. We have scheduled two full days (three nights) for the Bagan area, both to thoroughly sample its diverse avifauna with its (sometimes elusive) endemics and to do justice to the sacred plain with its more than 2,200 temples and pagodas dating from 700-1100 years ago. This will give us the time and flexibility for birding, further professional interpretation of the site, and the opportunity to wander and photograph on our own. In addition to chasing down the endemics, we will bird the scrubby thickets for migrant and resident warblers, chats and quails; the many small wet pans in the area attract storks, herons, ducks, and shorebirds; and we’ll keep one eye on the sky for raptors such as White-eyed Buzzard and Crested Honey Buzzard. In the early evening we will position ourselves in an area where we have an excellent chance of seeing Indian Nightjar. Overnight: Bagan Princess Hotel

Day 5, January 22nd: Bagan to Mt. Victoria. Early this morning, we will cross the Irrawaddy River at Chauk in our 4WD vehicles for a full day journey to the remote and seldom-visited Mount Victoria in the . Our route passes through the Nagabwet Reserve and includes areas of dry savanna where we will have a chance to catch up with any Bagan species we may have missed, especially the scarce Hooded Treepie, perhaps the scarcest of Myanmar’s endemics. The route also takes us through dry dipterocarp forest, and mixed mid and low altitude deciduous and bamboo forest that support a host of seldom-seen species.

One of the day’s special target is the scarce and habitat-specific White-rumped Falcon, but we will also watch for the uncommon Rufous-bellied Eagle, several impressive woodpecker species, as many as five species of parakeets (including the rare Grey-headed and the stunning Blossom-headed) and an unpredictable assortment of pigeons, barbets, laughing thrushes, minivets, drongos, and Old World orioles, among other possibilities.

We hope to reach our destination above the small village of , by early evening. The comfortable villa, which will be our home for the next four days, is situated at about 4,200feet to the south-east of Mt. Victoria and is the perfect base from which to explore the mountain. Overnight: Pinewood Villa. The guest house is rather basic but quite comfortable. The rooms are small and basically equipped but neat, clean and comfortable. There is running water as well as hot water for showering. The food here is excellent: Real traditional Burmese food that is delicious. The staff is helpful and friendly. There are very few places to stay on the remote Mt. Victoria and Pinewood Villa is the best available lodge in the area. The mountain is still very well forested and rather remote with few people living on and around it. However, the trapping and eating of the larger birds is an issue in this remote area. Therefore be very fortunate to see either of Mrs. Hume's Pheasant or Blyth's Tragopan.

Days 6 to 9, January 23rd to 26th: Mt. Victoria area. The 180 square mile Nat-ma-taung (Mt. Victoria) National Park, is one of Asia’s richest birding destinations and contains a great diversity of , including montane bamboo stands, broad-leaf evergreen forest, temperate pine forest, and mixed and rhododendron forest near the mountain’s 10,2000 foot summit as well as successional grasslands and shrub lands and cultivated areas. One of the joys of birding montane forest in this part of the world is encountering mixed foraging flocks that often contain an astonishing variety of species and numerous individuals. We will have ample time to seek out various habitat specialists and of course additional endemics including the charming White- browed , and the very localized Burmese Bushtit and Mt. Victoria Babax, which are found almost exclusively on Mt. Victoria, as well as such near-endemics as Striped Laughing-thrush, Chin Hills Wren-Babbler, Spot- breasted Scimitar Babbler, and Black-bibbed Tit.

Venturing out in the pre-dawn hours we will hope to flush Grey Nightjars and catch the exquisite Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant and the near mythical Blyth’s Tragopan feeding near the roadside. Working the lower slopes we will find a community of birds that don’t occur farther up, such as Blue- winged Laughingthrush, the shy Crimson-faced Liocichla, Pygmy Wren- Babbler, Rusty-capped Fulvetta, the eye-popping Orange-bellied Leafbird, and Crested Finchbill. Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504

Further up large, dense stands of mid-altitude understory bamboo harbor some very special species including Black-throated and Spot-breasted Parrotbills and Broad-billed Warbler. Birding higher still in open areas may yield such avian treats as Blue- fronted Redstart, Black-throated Prinia, Spot-winged Grosbeak and the aptly named Fire-tailed Sunbird. And in the high altitude forest zone mixed flocks may include such species as Rufous- bellied Woodpecker, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, the striking Vivid Niltava, and no less vivid Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, the extremely scarce Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker, several species of handsome shrike-babblers, the much desired Himalayan , and with luck and patience some understory skulkers such as Chestnut-headed Tesia. When the sky is visible we’ll watch for Black Eagles cruising slowly along the slopes looking for unwary squirrels, and in the evening we will take time to search for crepuscular and nocturnal birds such as Hodgson’s Frogmouth, Brown Wood Owl and Mountain Scops Owl. Overnight: Pinewood Villa

Day 10, January 27th: Mt. Victoria to Bagan. Today we will reluctantly depart this very special place and make our way back to Bagan along the same route. We will, of course, stop to bird along the way and pick up some species we may have missed on the journey out. Among the possibilities are such stunners as Kalij Pheasant, Lesser and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Velvet-fronted and Burmese , Large Cuckooshrike, Black-backed Forktail, Greater and Lesser Yellownapes, White-browed Fantail, Black-naped Monarch, Crested Treeswift, Blue-winged and Goldenfronted Leafbirds, and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird. We hope to arrive in Bagan in the early evening so that we can try at dusk for Savanna Nightjar, before heading to our comfortable and now familiar hotel. Overnight: Bagan Princess Hotel

Day 11, January 28th: Bagan to Kalaw. This morning we will take an early flight to Heho (near Taunggyi) and then drive west to Kalaw, a pleasant hill station located at an altitude of about 4,000 feet. En route we will make a few stops that may yield the near endemic Collared Myna, Grey-headed Lapwing and, if we are extremely lucky, the rare and local Rufous-winged Buzzard. After lunch we will venture into an area of grassland, scattered bushes and pine forest that hugs the hills behind town to ferret out a diverting array of babblers, parrotbills, bulbuls, warblers and finches. Overnight: Dream Villa Hotel is situated in Kalaw town. The hotel offers comfortable but fairly basic accommodation. Breakfast here is rather simple. Lunch and dinner will be had at a restaurant just around the corner, which offers excellent Burmese cuisine.

Day 12, January 29th: Kalaw to Inle. This morning we will be up rather early (before light), at about 05h00. Breakfast at Dream Villa Hotel, then drive up to a nearby monastery (about 15 minute drive) from where we begin the gentle, easy walk (about 2 miles) through farmland and forest edge to the Yay Aye Kan Reservoir, (about 2 miles) where a large tract of native broad-leaved forest awaits us. We arrive there in the early morning at around 8 AM and begin birding for most of the rest of the day. We will have a porter with who will carry our packed lunches and tea and coffee but participants will have to carry their own day packs with water, etc. We will have a picnic lunch then visit the reservoir in the mid-afternoon (or earlier depending on circumstances and preferences) and walk back to the monastery where the bus will be awaiting our return. The drive from Kalaw to Inle will be about three hours. We will do one short birding stop along the way to break the journey and should arrive at Inle late afternoon. Overnight: Hupin Hotel at Inle is similar to the Dream Villa Hotel in Kalaw. . Comfortable but fairly basic rooms with small television, en suite bathrooms with running hot and cold water.

Interesting new birds that we may encounter on our walk today include Red-billed Blue Magpie, Oriental Turtle Dove, Scaly-breasted and White-rumped Munias, and Chinese Francolin. We aim to arrive at the broad-leaved forest soon after dawn to maximize our chances of seeing the areas’ many special birds, including edge species such as White-browed Scimitar Babbler and Dark-backed Sibia. Entering the lush forest interior, our prime goals will be to find the rarely seen Burmese Yuhina, however we will not neglect other noteworthy species such as Silver-eared Laughingthrush, Blue-eared Barbet, Black-crested Bulbul, Silver-eared Leiothrix, Golden Babbler, Chestnut-flanked Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504 White-eye, Hill Blue Flycatcher, White-crowned Forktail, and the reclusive little Slaty-bellied Tesia. Red-headed Trogon, Silver-breasted and Long-tailed Broadbills, and Asian Stubtail also occur here but are thinly distributed and not to be counted on.

Day 13, January 30th: Inle Lake and flight back to Yangon via Heho. After yesterday’s very full agenda, we’ll aim for a more relaxed experience today as we embark on a tour by boat on Inle Lake, one of Burma’s best known destinations for visitors. The lake is situated on the Shan Plateau at about 3,000 feet and is lined with busy markets and the stilt house villages and floating gardens of the Intha tribe. Fishermen and other locals ply the waters of the lake in long shallow draft boats - which they row with one leg wrapped around a single paddle! We will allow time to visit the markets here.

Our ornithological interests here are the highly localized Jerdon’s Bush Chat and Collared Myna plus several other noteworthy specialties, such as three species of reed warbler, Greater and Lesser Coucals, Black-tailed Crake, Striated Grassbird and Chestnut-capped Babbler. Other water-loving species we are likely to find are: Citrine Wagtail, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas and a diverting variety of resident and migrant waterfowl. Among these, we will try to spot the very rare Baer’s Pochard. Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls usually follow the boats as we motor along, while both Eastern and Western Marsh Harriers are likely to be seen cruising low over vast expanses of reedbed.

At midday we will return for lunch at our hotel and thereafter we will transfer to Heho Airport to catch our domestic flight back to Yangon, where we should arrive in the evening. Overnight: Season’s Hotel

Day 14, January 31st: Yangon area (Hlawga Park) and depart for home. We will have time before catching our international flights to do some final birding at the nearby Hlawga Park. This area of mostly dry, mixed lowland forest and scattered small wetlands is home to a wide array of interesting species, many of which will be new for us on the trip. Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters perch up in the open while understory species include Racket-tailed Treepie, Black-naped Monarch, White-crested Laughingthrush, White-rumped Shama, and the scarce, nomadic Pale-capped Pigeon; we may also see the beautiful Finlayson’s Squirrel. The small, open wetlands may produce Asian Openbill, Oriental Darter, White-breasted Waterhen, and Cotton Pygmy Goose, amongst other species. We will leave Hlawga Park by late morning and make our way to town, where we will have a farewell meal together before departing on our flights home.

Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504

TERMS & PRICE : $6250 - based on double occupancy, Single supplement is $500 This cost is based on a minimum of 8 and a maximum of 12 travelers, plus leaders.

Price Includes: All accommodations and meals as noted in itinerary Ground transportation from Jan 18 – Jan 31, including 4x4 vehicles in Mt. Victoria area Local guides and tour managers and Mass Audubon leader, Chris Leahy Park and preserve entrance fees, boat trip on Lake Inle, bottled water during tour Gratuities for local drivers, guides, hotel staff, porters $1000 tax deductible Contribution to the Bertrand Chair of Ornithology

Does Not Include: Any and all flights, international as well as the flights within country (see below) Passport and visa fees Any beverages (including mini-bar charges at hotels) Extra transportation costs not included in the itinerary Special gratuities Telephone calls, laundry and other items of a personal nature.

Travel Arrangements: You, the traveler, are responsible for booking and paying for your own international flights. Once you reserve your space, we will provide you with suggested flights and tell you which flights our leaders will be on. You may book flights directly with the airline or with a travel agent. Note: Any early arrival arrangements will be at additional cost. The trip will begin and end Yangon, Myanmar. Airport code is RGN. International flights from several US airports, including JFK are offered by Qatar Airlines and Cathay Pacific (~$1500 from JFK as of April 2013). Yangon, is the primary international airport of Burma and the second largest airport in the country. Internal flights within Burma will be booked by the local operator, but are NOT included in the trip price but will be booked for you at an estimated cost of $370 per person..

Special notes:

1. This program is offered first to leadership-level supporters for the Bertrand Chair of Ornithology and includes a voluntary contribution. 2. A fair amount of time is spent in vehicles and we also will have 3 internal flights in order to get to the best locations for birding. There are some long 8 hour drives in 4x4 vehicles along dusty roads. 3. Pack light, please! The more luggage , the less room in the vehicles. There are charges on the flights for luggage over 44 pounds (per person) and 18 pounds for hand luggage. 4. This is a new destination and thus, the trip will have some unpredictable moments. This program is best suited for those travelers who enjoy a sense of adventure.

About Your Guide:

Christopher Leahy currently holds the Gerard A. Bertrand Chair of Natural History and Field Ornithology at Mass Audubon. He has been a professional conservationist for more than thirty years and served as Director of Mass Audubon’s Center for Biological Conservation. His published works include Birdwatcher's Companion to North American Birdlife, The First Guide to Insects, Introduction to New England Birds, An Introduction to Massachusetts Insects, and The Nature of Massachusetts. He is also the editor of a series of authoritative books on the flora and fauna of New England. Chris has designed and led natural history explorations to over 70 countries on all of the continents. He is especially fascinated with the world's great remaining wilderness areas and biodiversity hot spots such as Gabon, Madagascar, and Mongolia. He grew up in Marblehead and has lived in Gloucester with his family since the 1970s. Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504

TERMS & CONDITIONS OF TRAVEL APPLICATIONS, RESERVATIONS, DEPOSITS: Early applications are strongly encouraged. All applications must be accompanied by a completed reservation form and a $1000 deposit. Deposits can be by check or credit card (Visa or MasterCard). We reserve the right to decline your application. In the case of questionable health, we reserve the right to require a physician’s certification. Final payment is due 95 days before the departure date. Final payment must be by check, or money order only. RATES: All tour prices are based on double occupancy. If you would like us to find you a roommate, we will do our best, but cannot guarantee a share. If we cannot find a share, you will need to pay the single supplement. All forms and fares are accurate at the time of publication March 2013, but are subject to change at any time prior to departure. It is our policy to only pass on the actual amount of any increases in airfares or land costs such as those increases due to the devaluation of the dollar. Rarely, a price increase may be called for if the group falls below the minimum of 8. The maximum number of participants is 12.

FLIGHTS: You, the traveler, are responsible for booking and paying for your own international flights. Once you reserve your space, we will provide you with suggested flights and tell you which flights our leaders will be on. You may book flights directly with the airline or with a travel agent. Please be aware that most tickets are non-refundable, therefore you should not book your flight arrangements until you have checked with us to be sure the tour has the minimum number of travelers.

TRIP CANCELLATION AND MEDICAL/MEDICAL EVACUATION INSURANCE package will be sent to you upon receipt of reservation. We strongly urge you to purchase a trip cancellation and medical evacuation insurance package for your own protection. In the event you have to cancel, you could lose all funds paid for the trip. A simple medical evacuation package will cover you during the dates of the tour, but this offers limited protection. You may learn more at www.massaudubon.org/travel and you can access the TIS policy via this website under “Travel Resources”.

PHOTOS: Mass Audubon reserves the right to make use of any photograph taken on the tour. We guarantee that no photos of a comprising nature will be used.

CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS: If you need to change your booking, you must inform us immediately. All cancellations must be done in writing and are effective upon receipt in the Massachusetts Audubon Travel Office. Cancellations received up to 121 days prior to departure will be refunded deposits less a $300 per person fee. For cancellations between 120 and 90 days prior to departure, deposits will not be refunded. There are no refunds for cancellations 90 days or less from departure. We strongly urge all travelers to purchase trip cancellation insurance. You will be sent information from the Massachusetts Audubon Society upon receipt of your deposit.

Your Responsibility: Although every precaution is taken to safeguard you and your belongings, group travel trips by their nature involve a certain amount of risk. Trip participants should understand that the domestic and international trips sponsored/operated by Massachusetts Audubon Society (Mass Audubon Tours) - hereafter collectively “M.A.S.” - involve known and unknown risks. M.A.S. assumes no responsibility for injuries, death, financial losses or damage to clients’ property caused by or occurring during participation in any of the travel trips sponsored/operated by M.A.S. Trip participants must assume responsibility for having sufficient skill and fitness to participate in the trips and activities offered or sponsored by M.A.S. Trip participants must also certify that they have no medical, mental or physical conditions which could interfere with their abilities to participate in the activities and/or trips they are participating in and they must assume and bear the cost of all risks that may be created, directly or indirectly, by any such condition. It is the responsibility of trip participants to have in place adequate insurance to cover any injury, damage or emergency transportation costs related to their travel and/or participation in trip activities and/or to bear the costs of such injury, damage or emergency transportation costs. Because of the risks associated with the travel trips sponsored by M.A.S. we urge all trip participants to supplement their own insurance with travel or vacation or emergency response types of insurance. M.A.S. requires that all trip participants acknowledge and assume these risks by reading and signing an M.A.S. Release and Waiver and Assumption of Risk contract prior to departure.

CONDITIONS OF TRAVEL: Travelers will be provided with an itinerary and trip preparation information. It is expected that travelers will read this information prior to trip departure. Travelers will be responsible for completing an application reservation form, a personal information form, and a release of liability form. Travelers will be expected to abide by the terms set for in the invoice. During the tour, travelers are asked to respect and follow the directions of their guide and leader.

Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504

Reservation Form: Burma January 18-31, 2014

Mr./Mrs./Ms. / / Passenger Name (1) – as shown as passport Date of Birth

Mr./Mrs./Ms. / / Passenger Name (2) – as shown as passport Date of Birth

Address

City State Zip

Phone: Day Evening

Email address

Additional Information: _____ I/We are non-smoker(s) ___ smoker(s) ___ (smoking is limited to outdoors in non-group spaces) _____ I request single accommodations where available and will pay the single supplement. _____ I would like to be assigned a roommate. If one is not available, I will pay the single supplement.

To book flights within Burma, we must also have the following information: Passport Number (1) / / Expiration Date Passport Number (2) / / Expiration Date

Deposit: Please find my enclosed deposit of ($1000 per person) check ______or please charge ______my credit card:

VISA___MC___ Card #______Exp.______

Checks should be made payable to “Massachusetts Audubon Society”

______Signature Travel with the Massachusetts Audubon Society 208 South Great Road, Lincoln, MA 01773 800-289-9504